CN114585349A - 用于化妆品制剂的特别是天然的油替代品 - Google Patents
用于化妆品制剂的特别是天然的油替代品 Download PDFInfo
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- CN114585349A CN114585349A CN202080059423.4A CN202080059423A CN114585349A CN 114585349 A CN114585349 A CN 114585349A CN 202080059423 A CN202080059423 A CN 202080059423A CN 114585349 A CN114585349 A CN 114585349A
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- hydroxypropyl starch
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 18
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims description 20
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 45
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 39
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- 239000001341 hydroxy propyl starch Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 235000013828 hydroxypropyl starch Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
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- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(O)=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 17
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 11
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- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 claims description 8
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- 125000002704 decyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 4
- PKPOVTYZGGYDIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N dioctyl carbonate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCOC(=O)OCCCCCCCC PKPOVTYZGGYDIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N (E)-8-Octadecenoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCC(O)=O WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- JNAYPSWVMNJOPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3-bis(16-methylheptadecanoyloxy)propyl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C JNAYPSWVMNJOPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- MWKPHOIHTLQZIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hexyldecyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(CCCCCC)CCCCCCCC MWKPHOIHTLQZIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940100555 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- QWGRWMMWNDWRQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol Chemical compound OCC(C)CO QWGRWMMWNDWRQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-octyldodecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCC(CO)CCCCCCCC LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- FVKRIDSRWFEQME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-methylbutyl dodecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCC(C)C FVKRIDSRWFEQME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 9-Heptadecensaeure Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- 244000144725 Amygdalus communis Species 0.000 claims description 2
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- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Myristic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000005642 Oleic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 2
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Abstract
本发明涉及由a)羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯(INCI：羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯)和b)植物油组成的混合物作为化妆品制剂中矿物油和硅油的替代品的用途及其在化妆品制剂中的用途。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及由
a)羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯(INCI：羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯)和
b)植物油
组成的混合物作为化妆品制剂中矿物油和硅油的替代品的用途及其在化妆品制剂中的用途。
背景技术
看起来美丽和有吸引力的愿望是人类与生俱来的。即使美的典范随着时间的推移而发生变化，追求完美无瑕的外貌一直是人们的目标。皮肤的状况和外观在美丽和迷人的外表中占有重要分量。
为了使皮肤能够充分发挥其生物学功能，它需要定期清洁和护理。护肤品，通常是面霜、软膏或乳液，主要用于皮肤的增湿和滋润。它们通常添加有活性成分，所述活性成分使皮肤再生，例如应防止和减少其过早老化(例如细纹、皱纹的发展)。
除了清洁和护理皮肤，化妆品还具有美学任务。它们应当根据各自的文化理念“改善”使用者的外表。化妆品因此实现了心理和社会功能，因为它们提高了使用者的(视觉)吸引力。最重要的是，这个领域包括“装饰性”化妆品，它通过涂抹在皮肤上的染料来改变使用者的外表。间接地，清洁和护理产品还具有积极的影响，因为清洁、健康的皮肤符合人们的审美观。
最近，“天然”化妆品的趋势有所增强，其成分应当尽可能不再来自石油产品或化学合成。这种趋势现在与“纯素”产品的趋势叠加。对符合这些标准的替代成分的寻找对产品开发人员提出了特别的挑战。这是因为更换矿物油、硅油、聚丙烯酸酯等已知成分几乎总是以产品使用方面的劣势为代价。制剂在感官上变得没有吸引力，这是明显令人不快的，例如当制剂涂抹在皮肤上并且缺乏吸收能力时。例如，矿物油、硅油和聚丙烯酸酯(例如卡波姆、丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸C10-30烷基酯交联聚合物)的替代品在将制剂擦在皮肤上时尤其会导致强化的“白化”。这种“白化”尤其发生在使用常用的黄原胶(INCI黄原胶)代替聚丙烯酸酯的制剂中。此外，当使用黄原胶时，会出现拉丝结构，这意味着配方在手指之间拉开时会形成丝状。
发明内容
因此，本发明的任务是寻找化妆品制剂中矿物油和硅油的替代品，其具有与矿物油和硅油相同的感官特性(特别是关于白化、皮肤上的铺展性和吸收能力)。
此外，本发明的任务是开发不含矿物油、硅油和聚丙烯酸酯并且具有与含有这些成分的常规化妆品相同的感官特性的化妆品制剂(特别是乳液，在此为O/W乳液)。理想地，这些制剂应当是“纯素的”，即不含动物来源的成分。此外，寻求开发一种其成分为植物来源的制剂，其中植物来源还应理解为这样的物质：其起始材料来自植物并随后经过一个或多个衍生化步骤(例如水解、酯化)。
令人惊讶的是，这些任务通过使用由
a)羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯(INCI：羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯)和
b)植物油
组成的混合物作为化妆品制剂中矿物油和硅油的替代品得以解决。
令人惊讶的是，这些任务还有通过含有由
a)羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯(INCI：羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯)和
b)植物油
组成的混合物的化妆品制剂来解决，其中该制剂不含矿物油、硅油、聚丙烯酸酯和黄原胶。
在此，根据本发明有利的是，
a)羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯与
b)植物油的总量的重量比为2:1至1:20，根据本发明优选为1:1至1:10。
在本公开的范围内，除非另有说明，措辞“根据本发明”总是指根据本发明的制剂和用途。
如US 6248338中所述的这种羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯是特别有利的。在此，非常特别优选使用羟丙基二淀粉磷酸酯，例如Nouryon公司出售的产品
XL。
根据本发明有利的是，所述植物油选自鳄梨油、巴巴苏籽油、刺阿干树仁油、杏仁油、霍霍巴籽油、椰子油、水飞蓟籽油、月见草油、油橄榄果油、向日葵籽油、葡萄籽油、Olus油、植物油(Vegetable Oil)、草棉籽油、牛蒡籽油、澳洲坚果籽油、全缘叶澳洲坚果籽油、玉米胚芽油、甜扁桃油、蓖麻籽油、大豆油、向日葵混合油、芝麻籽油、油菜籽油。
本发明的根据本发明有利的实施方案的进一步特征在于该制剂含有一种或多种辛酸和/或癸酸的酯。
在这种情况下，根据本发明有利的是，辛酸和/或癸酸的酯选自化合物组辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯(INCI：辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯)、辛酸/癸酸辛酯(INCI：辛酸/癸酸辛酯)、椰油辛酸酯/癸酸酯(INCI：椰油辛酸酯/癸酸酯)、椰油甘油酯(INCI：椰油甘油酯)、椰油酸乙基己酯(INCI：椰油酸乙基己酯)、椰油酸癸酯(INCI：椰油酸癸酯)、椰油酸异戊酯(INCI：椰油酸异戊酯)、碳酸二辛酯(INCI：碳酸二辛酯)、椰油辛酸酯(INCI：椰油辛酸酯)。
对于根据本发明的制剂，根据本发明有利的是，制剂包含浓度为0.2-5重量％的羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯(INCI：羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯)，相对于制剂的总重量。
此外，根据本发明的制剂的有利特征在于该制剂为乳液形式。
在这种情况下，根据本发明优选的是制剂是水包油乳液(O/W乳剂)的形式。
在这种情况下，根据本发明特别优选的实施方案的特征在于该制剂含有一种或多种乳化剂，所述乳化剂选自化合物组甘油硬脂酸酯柠檬酸酯(INCI：甘油硬脂酸酯柠檬酸酯)、硬脂酰谷氨酸钠(INCI：硬脂酰谷氨酸钠)、硬脂酸甘油酯(INCI：硬脂酸甘油酯)、鲸蜡硬脂基硫酸钠(INCI：鲸蜡硬脂基硫酸钠)、硬脂酸甘油酯SE(INCI：硬脂酸甘油酯SE)、鲸蜡硬脂基硫酸钠(INCI：鲸蜡硬脂基硫酸钠)、硬脂酸(INCI：棕榈酸+硬脂酸+肉豆蔻酸+花生四烯酸+油酸)、硬脂酸甘油酯(INCI：硬脂酸甘油酯)、聚甘油-3二异硬脂酸酯(INCI：聚甘油-3二异硬脂酸酯)。
在此，根据本发明有利的是，乳化剂的使用浓度为制剂总重量的0.1至5重量％。
本发明的根据本发明有利的实施方案的特征还在于该制剂不含聚乙二醇醚和乙二醇酯，并且不含对羟基苯甲酸酯、甲基异噻唑啉酮、氯甲基异噻唑啉酮和DMDM-乙内酰脲。
此外，根据本发明的制剂应有利地不含动物成分。
在本发明的意义上有利的是，制剂包含蜡和/或脂肪醇。在此，根据本发明优选地使用选自下列化合物列表的蜡或脂肪醇：鲸蜡硬脂醇、鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇、乳木果油、棕榈酸鲸蜡酯、棕榈酸甲酯、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯、氢化椰油甘油酯、肉豆蔻醇、山嵛醇、氢化蓖麻油、可可籽脂、氢化菜籽油、辛酸/癸酸/肉豆蔻酸/硬脂酸甘油三酯、氢化植物油、巴西棕榈蜡、小烛树蜡、向日葵蜡、三硬脂精。
此外，发现根据本发明特别有利的是，该制剂含有一种或多种选自以下化合物组的亲脂性组分：二辛基醚、油酸癸酯、辛基十二烷醇、角鲨烷、三异硬脂精、乳木果油乙酯、三庚精、硬脂酸己基癸酯、月桂酸异戊酯。
本发明的有利实施方案的特征还在于，该制剂含有一种或多种选自化合物组1,2-戊二醇、1,2-己二醇、1,2-辛二醇、1,2-癸二醇、2-甲基-1,3-丙二醇、乙基己基甘油的链烷二醇。
本发明的根据本发明有利的实施方案的特征在于，所述制剂含有一种或多种选自以下化合物的化合物：α-硫辛酸、叶酸、八氢番茄红素、D-生物素、辅酶Q10、α-葡糖基芦丁、肉碱、肌肽、天然异黄酮、类黄酮、肌酸、肌酸酐、牛磺酸、β-丙氨酸、生育酚、泛醇、厚朴酚、和厚朴酚、甘油基葡萄糖、透明质酸和/或其盐和/或甘草查耳酮A。
根据本发明的制剂还可以含有其他化妆品成分。
根据本发明有利的是，所述制剂含有填料，特别是木薯淀粉。根据本发明有利的木薯淀粉使用浓度在此为0.05至3.0重量％，相对于制剂的总重量。在此，与诸如氧化锌的其他填料相比，木薯淀粉的优点是制剂不会变得太固体化。
根据本发明的制剂的水相可以有利地包含常规化妆品助剂，例如醇，特别是具有低碳数的醇，优选乙醇。
具体实施方式
比较试验
本发明的效果可以通过以下试验举例说明：
制备以下配方并研究分布在皮肤上时的白化。
实施例
以下实施例旨在说明本发明而不对其进行限制。除非另有说明，所有量、份数和百分比均基于制剂的重量和总量或总重量。
Claims (16)
1.由
a)羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯(INCI：羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯)和
b)植物油
组成的混合物作为化妆品制剂中矿物油和硅油的替代品的用途。
2.含有由
a)羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯(INCI：羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯)和
b)植物油
组成的混合物的化妆品制剂，其中所述制剂不含矿物油、硅油、聚丙烯酸酯和黄原胶。
3.根据权利要求1所述的用途或根据权利要求2所述的制剂，其特征在于，
a)羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯与
b)植物油的总量
的重量比为2:1至1:20。
4.根据前述权利要求1至3中任一项所述的用途或制剂，其特征在于，所述植物油选自以下化合物：鳄梨油、巴巴苏籽油、刺阿干树仁油、杏仁油、霍霍巴籽油、椰子油、水飞蓟籽油、月见草油、油橄榄果油、向日葵籽油、葡萄籽油、Olus油、植物油、草棉籽油、牛蒡籽油、澳洲坚果籽油、全缘叶澳洲坚果籽油、玉米胚芽油、甜扁桃油、蓖麻籽油、大豆油、向日葵混合油、芝麻籽油、油菜籽油。
5.根据权利要求2至4中任一项所述的制剂，其特征在于所述制剂含有一种或多种辛酸和/或癸酸的酯。
6.根据前述权利要求中2至5中任一项所述的制剂，其特征在于，辛酸和/或癸酸的酯选自以下化合物：辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯(INCI：辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯)、辛酸/癸酸辛酯(INCI：辛酸/癸酸辛酯)、椰油辛酸酯/癸酸酯(INCI：椰油辛酸酯/癸酸酯)、椰油甘油酯(INCI：椰油甘油酯)、椰油酸乙基己酯(INCI：椰油酸乙基己酯)、椰油酸癸酯(INCI：椰油酸癸酯)、椰油酸异戊酯(INCI：椰油酸异戊酯)、碳酸二辛酯(INCI：碳酸二辛酯)、椰油辛酸酯(INCI：椰油辛酸酯)。
7.根据权利要求2至6中任一项所述的制剂，其特征在于，所述制剂包含浓度为0.2至5重量％的羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯(INCI：羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯)，相对于制剂的总重量。
8.根据权利要求2至7中任一项所述的制剂，其特征在于，所述制剂为乳液形式。
9.根据权利要求2至8中任一项所述的制剂，其特征在于，所述制剂为水包油乳液(O/W乳液)的形式。
10.根据权利要求2至9中任一项所述的制剂，其特征在于，所述制剂不含聚乙二醇醚和聚乙二醇酯，并且不含对羟基苯甲酸酯、甲基异噻唑啉酮、氯甲基异噻唑啉酮和DMDM乙内酰脲。
11.根据权利要求2至10中任一项所述的制剂，其特征在于，所述制剂包含蜡和/或脂肪醇。
12.根据权利要求2至11中任一项所述的制剂，其特征在于，所述制剂含有一种或多种乳化剂，其选自以下化合物：甘油硬脂酸酯柠檬酸酯(INCI：甘油硬脂酸酯柠檬酸酯)、硬脂酰谷氨酸钠(INCI：硬脂酰谷氨酸钠)、硬脂酸甘油酯(INCI：硬脂酸甘油酯)、鲸蜡硬脂基硫酸钠(INCI：鲸蜡硬脂基硫酸钠)、硬脂酸甘油酯SE(INCI：硬脂酸甘油酯SE)、鲸蜡硬脂基硫酸钠(INCI：鲸蜡硬脂基硫酸钠)、硬脂酸(INCI：棕榈酸+硬脂酸+肉豆蔻酸+花生四烯酸+油酸)、硬脂酸甘油酯(INCI：硬脂酸甘油酯)、聚甘油-3二异硬脂酸酯(INCI：聚甘油-3二异硬脂酸酯)。
13.根据权利要求12所述的制剂，其特征在于，所述乳化剂的使用浓度为相对制剂总重量的0.1至5重量％。
14.根据权利要求2至13中任一项所述的制剂，其特征在于，所述制剂不含动物成分。
15.根据权利要求2至14中任一项所述的制剂，其特征在于，所述制剂含有一种或多种选自以下化合物的亲脂性组分：二辛基醚、油酸癸酯、辛基十二烷醇、角鲨烷、三异硬脂精、乳木果油乙酯、三庚精、硬脂酸己基癸酯、月桂酸异戊酯。
16.根据权利要求2至15中任一项所述的制剂，其特征在于，所述制剂含有一种或多种选自以下化合物：1,2-戊二醇、1,2-己二醇、1,2-辛二醇、1,2-癸二醇、2-甲基-1,3-丙二醇、乙基己基甘油的链烷二醇。
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| DE102019212794.0 | 2019-08-27 | ||
| PCT/EP2020/073491 WO2021037716A1 (de) | 2019-08-27 | 2020-08-21 | Besonders natürlicher ölersatz für kosmetische zubereitungen |
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| ES2995165T3 (en) * | 2019-08-28 | 2025-02-07 | Beiersdorf Ag | Acrylate and silicon-free cosmetic o/w emulsion |
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| DE102019212794A1 (de) | 2021-03-04 |
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