CN114557913A

CN114557913A - High-content ceramide repairing and moisturizing cream and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN114557913A
Application number: CN202210209083.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 张青; 向琴; 汤仲标
Original assignee: Tianjin Niqu Biotechnology Co ltd; Guangzhou Niqu Cosmetics Co ltd
Current assignee: Tianjin Niqu Biotechnology Co ltd; Guangzhou Niqu Cosmetics Co ltd
Priority date: 2022-03-04
Filing date: 2022-03-04
Publication date: 2022-05-31
Anticipated expiration: 2042-03-04
Also published as: CN114557913B

Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and relates to a high-content ceramide repairing and moisturizing cream and a preparation method thereof. The invention provides a composition, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-20 parts of ceramide, 1-30 parts of glycolipid and 10-40 parts of polar oil. The high-content ceramide repair moisturizing cream prepared from the composition has the synergistic effect of ceramide and glycolipid, the glycolipid not only promotes the dissolution of ceramide, reduces the addition amount of dissolved ceramide grease and the greasy feeling of the cream, but also has more remarkable repair moisturizing effect. The operation process is simple, and the large-scale production is convenient.

Description

High-content ceramide repairing and moisturizing cream and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and relates to a high-content ceramide repairing and moisturizing cream and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The skin, which is the largest organ covering the surface of the human body, is directly in contact with the external environment and is easily damaged by ultraviolet rays, microorganisms, physical and chemical stimuli, and the like. The skin is composed of three parts, namely epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue, and the outermost structure of the epidermis, namely the stratum corneum, plays an important role in the barrier of the skin. Researchers visually analogize the cuticle to a brick wall structure: the horny layer cells are bricks of walls and are formed by mutual crosslinking of filaggrin, cytokeratin and the like to form an insoluble compact structure; while intercellular lipids are likened to the wall's lime. Intercellular lipids contain mainly 50% ceramide, 30% cholesterol and 20% free fatty acids. Studies have shown one of the major causes of impaired skin barrier in the absence of ceramide.

However, the ceramide, which is an oil-soluble substance with high melting point, is difficult to be directly added into cosmetics for use, particularly, the high-content ceramide needs a large amount of grease to be dissolved, the prepared paste is greasy, and meanwhile, the ceramide is easy to separate out to influence the stability of the whole formula.

The patent CN 111568829A discloses a high-content ceramide repair cream and a preparation method thereof, and the preparation process is special, has higher selection requirements on an operation process and an emulsifier, and is inconvenient for large-scale production. Meanwhile, the patent needs to compound the formulated efficacy composition, and has limitation on the selection of formula raw materials.

Disclosure of Invention

In some embodiments, the present invention provides a composition comprising the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-20 parts of ceramide, 1-30 parts of glycolipid and 10-40 parts of polar oil.

In some embodiments, the composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.3-15 parts of ceramide, 3-30 parts of glycolipid and 12-37 parts of polar oil.

In some embodiments, the composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-10 parts of ceramide, 5-25 parts of glycolipid and 14-37 parts of polar oil.

In some embodiments, the composition further comprises a polyol, an emulsifier, and a thickener.

In some embodiments, the composition further comprises 5 to 25 parts by weight of a polyol, 2 to 10 parts by weight of an emulsifier, and 0.1 to 5 parts by weight of a thickener.

In some embodiments, the composition further comprises 7 to 25 parts by weight of a polyol, 3 to 8 parts by weight of an emulsifier, and 0.3 to 4 parts by weight of a thickener.

In some embodiments, the composition further comprises 10 to 20 parts by weight of a polyol, 5 to 8 parts by weight of an emulsifier, and 0.3 to 3 parts by weight of a thickener.

In some embodiments, the composition further comprises a pH adjusting agent and a preservative.

In some embodiments, the composition further comprises 0 to 3 parts by weight of a pH adjusting agent and 0.01 to 1 part by weight of a preservative.

In some embodiments, the composition further comprises 0 to 2 parts by weight of a pH adjusting agent and 0.05 to 1 part by weight of a preservative.

In some embodiments, the composition further comprises 0-1 part by weight of a pH regulator and 0.1-1 part by weight of a preservative.

In some embodiments, the composition further comprises 10 to 80 parts by weight of water.

In some embodiments, the composition further comprises 10 to 70 parts by weight of water.

In some embodiments, the composition further comprises 10 to 60 parts by weight of water.

In some embodiments, the ceramide comprises at least one of ceramide EOP, ceramide NP, or ceramide AP.

In some embodiments, the polar oil comprises at least one of caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetyl ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, or C12-15 alcohol benzoate.

In some embodiments, the polyol comprises at least one of glycerol, diglycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentanediol, or hexanediol.

In some embodiments, the emulsifier comprises at least one of a PEG-based emulsifier, a polyglycerol-based emulsifier (, a higher fatty alcohol, or a glycoside-based emulsifier).

In some embodiments, the PEG-based emulsifier includes at least one of PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 methylgluco sesquistearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-4 polyglyceryl-2 stearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 stearate, or PEG-40 stearate.

In some embodiments, the polyglycerol-based emulsifier comprises at least one of polyglycerol-3 methylglucdistearate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-10 dioleate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-6 laurate or polyglycerol-6 myristate.

In some embodiments, the higher fatty alcohol comprises at least one of ceteareth-12 or cetearyl alcohol.

In some embodiments, the glycoside emulsifier comprises at least one of cetearyl glucoside or coco glucoside.

In some embodiments, the thickener comprises at least one of xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, carbomer, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, or sodium polyacrylate.

In some embodiments, the pH adjusting agent comprises at least one of aminomethyl propanol, arginine, triethanolamine, potassium hydroxide, or tromethamine.

In some embodiments, the preservative comprises at least one of methylparaben, propylparaben, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, or benzyl alcohol.

In some embodiments, the present invention provides a cosmetic product comprising a composition as described in any of the above.

In some embodiments, the present invention provides a cosmetic comprising the following components in weight percent: 0.1-20% of ceramide, 1-30% of glycolipid, 10-40% of polar grease, 5-25% of polyalcohol, 2-10% of emulsifier, 0.1-5% of thickener, 0-3% of pH regulator, 0.01-1% of preservative and 100% of water.

In some embodiments, the cosmetic comprises the following components in weight percent: 0.3-15% of ceramide, 3-30% of glycolipid, 12-37% of polar grease, 7-25% of polyalcohol, 3-8% of emulsifier, 0.3-4% of thickener, 0-2% of pH regulator, 0.05-1% of preservative and 100% of water.

In some embodiments, the cosmetic comprises the following components in weight percent: 0.5-10% of ceramide, 5-25% of glycolipid, 14-37% of polar grease, 10-20% of polyalcohol, 5-8% of emulsifier, 0.3-3% of thickener, 0-1% of pH regulator, 0.1-1% of preservative and 100% of water.

In some embodiments, in the cosmetic of any of the above, the ceramide comprises at least one of ceramide EOP, ceramide NP, or ceramide AP.

In some embodiments, the PEG-based emulsifier comprises at least one of PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 methylgluco hemistearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-4 polyglyceryl-2 stearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 stearate, or PEG-40 stearate.

In some embodiments, the polyglycerol-based emulsifier comprises at least one of polyglycerol-3 methylglucose distearate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-10 dioleate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-6 laurate or polyglycerol-6 myristate.

In some embodiments, the cosmetic comprises a cream, a paste, or water.

In some embodiments, the cosmetic is a moisturizing cream.

In some embodiments, according to the high-content ceramide repairing and moisturizing cream provided by the invention, ceramide and glycolipid are synergistic, the glycolipid not only promotes the dissolution of ceramide, reduces the addition amount of dissolved ceramide grease and reduces the greasy feeling of the cream, but also the glycolipid can make the repairing and moisturizing effects of the product more remarkable.

In some embodiments, the moisturizing cream disclosed by the invention is simple in preparation process and convenient for large-scale production.

In some embodiments, the present invention provides a method of making any of the above cosmetics, comprising the steps of: putting deionized water and a thickening agent into a water phase pot, heating and stirring; putting polar oil, emulsifier, ceramide and glycolipid into an oil phase pot, heating, and dissolving to obtain a uniform transparent liquid; under the condition of stirring and homogenizing, putting the materials in the oil phase pot into the water phase pot, and completely emulsifying; cooling, adding pH regulator and antiseptic, stirring and dissolving.

In some embodiments, the method comprises the steps of: putting deionized water and a thickening agent into a water phase pot, heating to about 70-95 ℃, and stirring to obtain a uniform liquid; putting polar oil, emulsifier, ceramide and glycolipid into oil phase pot, heating to 705-10 deg.C, and dissolving to obtain uniform transparent liquid; under the condition of stirring and homogenizing, putting the materials in the oil phase pot into the water phase pot, and completely emulsifying; cooling to about 20-60 ℃, adding a pH regulator and a preservative, and stirring and dissolving uniformly.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions of the present invention are further illustrated by the following specific examples, which do not represent limitations to the scope of the present invention. Insubstantial modifications and adaptations of the present invention by others based on the teachings of the present invention are within the scope of the invention.

In the examples herein below, the manufacturer sources of ceramide EOP, ceramide NP, and ceramide AP are as follows:

substance(s)	Goods number	Manufacturer of the product
			Ceramide EOP	Ceramide 1A	Wuhanla Bai pharmaceutical chemical Co Ltd
Ceramide NP	Ceramide NP	EVONIK SPECIALTY CHEMICALS (SHANGHAI) Co.,Ltd.
			Ceramide AP	Ceramide AP	EVONIK SPECIALTY CHEMICALS (SHANGHAI) Co.,Ltd.

In the examples below, the glycolipid is Ceramela, toyo kamura co.

Example 1 high ceramide-content repairing and moisturizing cream formula and preparation method thereof

Table 1 shows a high-ceramide repair moisturizing cream formula (the formula content is mass percent)

The preparation method comprises the following steps:

(1) putting deionized water and a thickening agent into a water phase pot, heating to about 85 ℃, and stirring to obtain uniform liquid;

(2) adding polar oil or nonpolar oil, emulsifier, ceramide or cholesterol, and glycolipid into oil phase pot, heating to 85-90 deg.C, and dissolving to obtain uniform transparent liquid;

(3) under the condition of stirring and homogenizing, the materials in the oil phase pot are put into the water phase pot, and the emulsification is completed.

Comparative example 5

The addition amount of the caprylic/capric triglyceride in the formula 1 is changed to be 8 percent by mass, and other materials and processes are not changed.

Comparative example 6

The addition amount of the caprylic/capric triglyceride in the formula 1 is changed to 45 percent by mass, and other materials and processes are not changed.

Comparative example 7

The ceramide in the formula 1 is equivalently replaced by the glycolipid, and other materials and processes are unchanged.

Test 1 stability test

The ceramide repairing and moisturizing cream prepared by the formulas 1 to 3 and the comparative examples 1 to 6 is subjected to high and low temperature/light/cold and heat cycle tests, and the test results are as follows:

table 2 stability test results

Remarking: the "\\" in Table 2 represents no further observation of the test.

As can be seen from the stability test results, the stability of formulations 1 to 3 and comparative example 4 was good, and the stability tests of comparative examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 5 to 6 did not pass.

Comparative example 1 is that glycolipid equivalent is replaced by polar grease, and the comparison of the stability test results of formula 1 and comparative example 1 shows that glycolipid is helpful for dissolving ceramide, and the stability of the product is improved.

Comparative example 2 equal amount of ceramide is replaced by cholesterol with repairing and moisturizing effects, and as can be seen from the stability test results of formula 1 and comparative example 2, glycolipids have excellent compatibility and solubility with ceramide, and have no obvious advantage in dissolving other similar substances.

Comparative example 3 the polar oil caprylic/capric triglyceride was equally replaced with the non-polar oil mineral oil, and as can be seen from the stability test results of formulation 1 and comparative example 3, the polar oil contributed to the dissolution of ceramide.

From the stability results of the formula 1 and the comparative examples 5 to 6, it is known that the dissolution of ceramide is affected when the addition amount of polar oil is too small, and the product is unstable and water-oil separation occurs when the addition amount of polar oil is too high.

From the stability results of formula 1 and comparative example 4, it can be seen that the glycolipid can contribute to the dissolution of ceramide by adding the same amount of ceramide, greatly reducing the amount of polar oil and fat, and reducing the greasy feeling of the paste.

Test 2 human efficacy test

To verify the synergistic effect of glycolipids and ceramides, the creams of formula 1 and comparative examples 4 and 7 were tested for efficacy, respectively, as follows:

70 women with sensitive, dry, rough and easily reddened skin at 18-45 years old were selected and randomized into 2 groups, designated group A and group B, of 35 individuals each. After each group of testers cleaned their face every morning and evening (same cleansing product), the skin was tested by applying the formula 1 sample to the left face and the comparative sample to the right face, and during the test period, the skin was tested 28 days after continuous use without using other skin care products. The test indexes include moisture content of stratum corneum, skin percutaneous water loss rate, and eliminating facial redness.

Principle of testing

Skin moisture content: the difference of the dielectric constants of water and other substances in the capacitance method for measuring the water content of human skin cutin is obvious. The skin capacitance is measured differently and the parameter can represent the moisture content of the skin. An increase in the value indicates an increase in the water content of the stratum corneum.

Skin transdermal water loss rate: and (3) obtaining a trans-epidermal water loss value based on the water vapor partial pressure gradient of different points on unit time and unit cross-sectional area of Fick diffusion law. A decrease in the number indicates a slower rate of skin moisture evaporation and an improved skin barrier function.

Skin red zone scoring: VISIA-CR was used for facial Image acquisition, and the facial images were analyzed by Image-Pro-Plus analysis software to calculate the skin color a values. The a value indicates the degree of the red-green value of the skin color. The smaller the value of a, the less red the skin color.

The test results were as follows:

TABLE 3 human efficacy test (mean)

From the results of the human efficacy test, it can be known that: A. after the two groups of testers in the group B trial for 28 days, the formula 1 is compared with the formula in the comparative example 7, and the water content, the transdermal water loss rate and the skin color a value of the human skin are greatly improved after the formula 1 sample is used. The glycolipid and the ceramide have mutual synergistic effect, and the repairing and moisturizing effects are more remarkable.

Test 3 human trial self-evaluation

After the test population in test 2 was completed, the sample was rated for freshness, absorbency, moisture retention, ease of repair, and overall preference. The full score was 5, 1 was very unsatisfactory, 2 was less satisfactory, 3 was acceptable, 4 was more satisfactory, and 5 was very satisfactory. The test results were as follows:

table 4 human body trial self-appraising table

According to the human body trial self-evaluation results, the indexes of the formula 1 sample in terms of freshness, absorptivity, moisture retention, repairing and relieving performance and overall preference degree are far higher than those of the comparative example 4 and the comparative example 7, which shows that the glycolipid can promote the dissolution of ceramide, greatly reduces the dosage of polar grease, and is beneficial to the refreshing feeling of the paste. Meanwhile, the glycolipid and the ceramide have obvious synergistic effect, so that the repairing and moisturizing effects of the product are more remarkable.

Claims

1. The composition is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-20 parts of ceramide, 1-30 parts of glycolipid and 10-40 parts of polar oil.

2. The composition of claim 1, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 0.3-15 parts of ceramide, 3-30 parts of glycolipid and 12-37 parts of polar oil;

preferably, the composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-10 parts of ceramide, 5-25 parts of glycolipid and 14-37 parts of polar oil.

3. The composition of claim 1, further comprising a polyol, an emulsifier, a thickener;

preferably, the composition also comprises 5-25 parts by weight of polyol, 2-10 parts by weight of emulsifier and 0.1-5 parts by weight of thickener;

preferably, the composition also comprises 7-25 parts by weight of polyol, 3-8 parts by weight of emulsifier and 0.3-4 parts by weight of thickener;

preferably, the composition also comprises 10-20 parts by weight of polyol, 5-8 parts by weight of emulsifier and 0.3-3 parts by weight of thickener;

preferably, a pH regulator and a preservative are also included;

preferably, the preservative also comprises 0-3 parts by weight of pH regulator and 0.01-1 part by weight of preservative;

preferably, the preservative also comprises 0-2 parts by weight of pH regulator and 0.05-1 part by weight of preservative;

preferably, the liquid also comprises 0-1 part by weight of pH regulator and 0.1-1 part by weight of preservative;

preferably, the composition further comprises 10 to 80 parts by weight of water;

preferably, the composition further comprises 10-70 parts by weight of water;

preferably, the composition further comprises 10 to 60 parts by weight of water.

4. The composition of any one of claims 1-3, wherein the ceramide comprises at least one of ceramide EOP, ceramide NP, or ceramide AP;

preferably, the polar oil comprises at least one of caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetyl ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate or C12-15 alcohol benzoate;

preferably, the polyol comprises at least one of glycerol, diglycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentanediol, or hexanediol;

preferably, the emulsifier comprises at least one of a PEG-based emulsifier, a polyglycerol-based emulsifier (, a higher fatty alcohol, or a glycoside-based emulsifier;

preferably, the PEG-based emulsifier includes at least one of PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-4 polyglyceryl-2 stearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 stearate or PEG-40 stearate;

preferably, the polyglycerin-based emulsifier includes at least one of polyglycerin-3 methylglucose distearate, polyglycerin-10 stearate, polyglycerin-10 myristate, polyglycerin-10 dioleate, polyglycerin-10 laurate, polyglycerin-10 isostearate, polyglycerin-10 oleate, polyglycerin-10 diisostearate, polyglycerin-6 laurate or polyglycerin-6 myristate;

preferably, the higher fatty alcohol comprises at least one of ceteareth-12 or cetearyl alcohol;

preferably, the glycoside emulsifier comprises at least one of cetearyl glucoside or coco glucoside;

preferably, the thickener comprises at least one of xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, carbomer, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer or sodium polyacrylate;

preferably, the pH adjusting agent comprises at least one of aminomethyl propanol, arginine, triethanolamine, potassium hydroxide, or tromethamine;

preferably, the preservative comprises at least one of methylparaben, propylparaben, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, or benzyl alcohol.

5. A cosmetic comprising the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4.

6. The cosmetic is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight:

0.1-20% of ceramide, 1-30% of glycolipid, 10-40% of polar grease, 5-25% of polyalcohol, 2-10% of emulsifier, 0.1-5% of thickener, 0-3% of pH regulator, 0.01-1% of preservative and 100% of water;

preferably, the cosmetic comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.3-15% of ceramide, 3-30% of glycolipid, 12-37% of polar grease, 7-25% of polyalcohol, 3-8% of emulsifier, 0.3-4% of thickener, 0-2% of pH regulator, 0.05-1% of preservative and 100% of water.

7. The cosmetic of claim 6, wherein the cosmetic comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.5-10% of ceramide, 5-25% of glycolipid, 14-37% of polar grease, 10-20% of polyalcohol, 5-8% of emulsifier, 0.3-3% of thickener, 0-1% of pH regulator, 0.1-1% of preservative and 100% of water.

8. The cosmetic of any one of claims 6-7, wherein the ceramide comprises at least one of ceramide EOP, ceramide NP, or ceramide AP;

preferably, the emulsifier comprises at least one of a PEG-based emulsifier, a polyglycerol-based emulsifier, a higher fatty alcohol, or a glycoside-based emulsifier;

preferably, the PEG-based emulsifier includes at least one of PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 methylgluco sesquistearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-4 polyglyceryl-2 stearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 stearate or PEG-40 stearate;

preferably, the polyglycerol-based emulsifier includes at least one of polyglycerol-3 methylglucose distearate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-10 dioleate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-6 laurate or polyglycerol-6 myristate;

9. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 5 to 8, wherein the cosmetic comprises a cream, a paste or water;

preferably, the cosmetic is a moisturizing cream.

10. A process for preparing a cosmetic product according to any one of claims 5 to 8, comprising the steps of:

putting deionized water and a thickening agent into a water phase pot, heating and stirring;

putting polar oil, emulsifier, ceramide and glycolipid into an oil phase pot, heating, and dissolving to obtain a uniform transparent liquid;

under the condition of stirring and homogenizing, putting the materials in the oil phase pot into the water phase pot, and completely emulsifying;

cooling, adding a pH regulator and a preservative, and stirring and dissolving uniformly;

preferably, the method comprises the steps of:

putting deionized water and a thickening agent into a water phase pot, heating to about 70-95 ℃, and stirring to obtain a uniform liquid;

putting polar oil, emulsifier, ceramide and glycolipid into an oil phase pot, heating to about 705-10 ℃, and dissolving to obtain a uniform and transparent liquid;

cooling to about 20-60 ℃, adding a pH regulator and a preservative, and stirring and dissolving uniformly.