CN114376960B

CN114376960B - Pearl cream and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN114376960B
Application number: CN202210256305.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 何颖; 何利达
Original assignee: Huizhou Shiluobeiti Cosmetics Co ltd
Current assignee: Huizhou Shiluobeiti Cosmetics Co ltd
Priority date: 2022-03-16
Filing date: 2022-03-16
Publication date: 2023-03-21
Anticipated expiration: 2042-03-16
Also published as: CN114376960A

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to whitening and relieving pearl cream and a preparation method thereof. The whitening and soothing pearl cream contains components such as jojoba seed oil, squalane, magnesium stearate, white beeswax, cocoa butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride, an emulsifier, water, pearl powder, zinc oxide, bioglycan-1, sodium hyaluronate, tocopherol, allantoin, a polyol humectant, a preservative, CI 77891, natural plant extracts and the like, can play multiple roles of moisturizing, soothing and the like, and has a good skin beautifying effect on human skin.

Description

Pearl cream and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to whitening and relieving pearl cream and a preparation method thereof.

Background

Since ancient times, pearls are good products for delaying senility and maintaining beauty and keeping young. Whether natural pearl or cultured pearl, it is the product in mollusk body of shellfish, mainly secrete pearl substance from pearl sac cell after the mantle in body is stimulated, and is formed after accumulation and wrapping. The pearl is mainly derived from double-shell animal such as Pteria Martensii (Dunker), cristaria Plicata (Leach) or Hyriopsis cumingii (Lea) which are animals of family Pteriidae.

The application of pearl in the aspect of beautifying and face nourishing in China has already been in history for thousands of years, and the famous medical records in the three kingdoms period list pearl as a precious medicinal material. The compendium of materia medica of the Ming Dynasty Li Shizhen was recorded: the pearl is coated on the surface, so that people can feel moist and have good color; coating hands and feet, and removing skin from the hands and feet; can remove the dullness of the face, remove the facial speckles and make the face glossy and white. The unique beauty effect of pearl is closely related to the components contained in it. Modern medical research shows that the pearl contains various free amino acids, taurine, soluble protein, polypeptide, B vitamins, a large amount of trace elements and the like, can improve the activity of in vivo anti-aging factor superoxide dismutase and an amino acid carrier GSH-PX, and has the effects of delaying skin aging, fading color spots, treating acne, enhancing skin luster and elasticity and the like; and can enhance immunity by regulating endocrine and promoting metabolism.

At present, the beauty cream on the market has various varieties, but the beauty cream containing pearl powder is not numerous, the using effect is uneven, and the main reason for poor effect of the products is probably the problem that the skin generally absorbs the active ingredients in the pearl powder poorly when the pearl powder is used externally. The pearl powder contains calcium carbonate as main component, keratin, taurine and trace elements, and has the effects of relieving inflammation, tranquilizing, and astringing skin.

The invention relates to a new generation product of a beauty and skin care pearl cream (CN 112545970B) which is developed by the inventor before, and the inventor prepares a novel pearl cream with whitening and relieving effects by re-blending auxiliary materials and active ingredients in a pearl cream formula.

Disclosure of Invention

The pearl cream contains the combination of pearl powder and a plurality of specific natural plant extracts which are prepared according to a specific proportion, can play multiple roles of whitening, soothing and the like, and can remarkably improve the absorption of skin on the pearl powder and the other natural plant extracts by adding a certain amount of menthol into the pearl cream, so that the effects of reducing the dosage of each component and enhancing the skin beautifying effect of the pearl cream on human skin are achieved.

In order to solve the technical problems, the invention adopts the technical scheme that:

the whitening and relieving pearl cream comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight:

phase A raw materials: 5-10 parts of jojoba seed oil, 2-6 parts of squalane, 0.1-1.2 parts of magnesium stearate, 1-2 parts of white beeswax, 3-5 parts of cocoa butter, 3-8 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride and 5-10 parts of emulsifier;

b phase raw materials: 50-80 parts of water, 5-12 parts of pearl powder, 0.2-0.5 part of zinc oxide, 12-6 parts of biogel, 0.2-3 parts of sodium hyaluronate, 0.5-3 parts of tocopherol, 0.5-1 part of allantoin, 6-12 parts of a polyhydric alcohol humectant and 1-3 parts of a preservative;

c phase raw material: CI 778910.5-2 parts, menthol 0.5-2 parts, and natural plant extract 2-8 parts.

Preferably, the whitening and relieving pearl cream comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight:

phase A raw materials: 6-9 parts of jojoba seed oil, 3-5 parts of squalane, 0.2-1.0 part of magnesium stearate, 1.2-1.8 parts of white beeswax, 3.5-4.5 parts of cocoa butter, 4-7 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride and 6-9 parts of emulsifier;

b phase raw materials: 60-70 parts of water, 5-10 parts of pearl powder, 0.2-0.4 part of zinc oxide, 13-5 parts of biogel, 0.5-2 parts of sodium hyaluronate, 1-2.5 parts of tocopherol, 0.6-0.8 part of allantoin, 7.5-10.5 parts of polyol humectant and 1.5-2.5 parts of preservative;

c phase raw material: CI 778910.8-1.2 parts, menthol 0.8-1.2 parts, and natural plant extract 4-8 parts.

phase A raw materials: 8 parts of jojoba seed oil, 4 parts of squalane, 0.5 part of magnesium stearate, 1.5 parts of white beeswax, 4 parts of cocoa butter, 6 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride and 8 parts of emulsifier;

b phase raw materials: 65 parts of water, 8 parts of pearl powder, 0.3 part of zinc oxide, 1 part of biogel-4, 1 part of sodium hyaluronate, 2 parts of tocopherol, 0.7 part of allantoin, 9 parts of polyol humectant and 2 parts of preservative;

c phase raw material: CI 77891 parts, menthol 1 parts and natural plant extract 6 parts.

Preferably, the emulsifier in the phase a raw material is a combination of PEG-30 dimer hydroxystearate and sorbitan sesquioleate, and the weight ratio of the two is 3.

Preferably, the pearl powder in the B-phase raw material is common commercially available micron-sized pearl powder, and the particle size of the powder is 10-20 μm.

Preferably, the polyhydric alcohol humectant in the phase B raw material is a combination of glycerol, propylene glycol, 1, 2-butanediol and 1, 2-pentanediol, and the weight ratio of the four is 2.

Preferably, the preservative in the phase B raw material is selected from p-hydroxyacetophenone.

Preferably, the natural plant extract in the phase C raw material is a combination of a kusora aloe leaf extract, a ginseng root extract, a peony root extract and a white poria extract, and the weight ratio of the four extracts is 1:0.5:0.5:4.

further, the invention also provides a preparation method of the whitening and soothing pearl cream, which comprises the following steps:

(1) Adding the phase A raw material into an oil phase pot, heating to 80-90 ℃, stirring at 250-350rpm, and uniformly dissolving to obtain an oil phase material;

(2) Adding the B-phase raw material into a water phase pot, heating to 80-90 ℃, stirring at 250-350rpm, and uniformly dissolving to obtain a water phase material;

(3) Pumping the oil phase material into an emulsifying pot, pumping the water phase material into the emulsifying pot, starting a stirrer, a homogenizer and a vacuum pump, homogenizing and emulsifying for 10-15 minutes in vacuum at 2000-3000rpm, and preserving heat;

(4) After emulsification, opening cooling water, cooling to 42 ℃, adding the C-phase raw material, starting a stirrer and a homogenizer at 150-250rpm, and homogenizing and emulsifying for 5-10 minutes;

(5) Continuously cooling to 40 ℃, sampling and inspecting;

(6) And after the inspection is qualified, discharging, standing, filling, packaging and warehousing the finished product.

Preferably, the preparation method of the whitening and soothing pearl cream comprises the following steps:

(1) Adding the phase A raw material into an oil phase pot, heating to 85 ℃, and stirring at 300rpm to dissolve uniformly to obtain an oil phase material;

(2) Adding the B-phase raw material into a water phase pot, heating to 85 ℃, stirring at 300rpm, and uniformly dissolving to obtain a water phase material;

(3) Pumping the oil phase material into an emulsifying pot, pumping the water phase material into the emulsifying pot, starting a stirrer, a homogenizer and a vacuum pump, homogenizing and emulsifying for 12 minutes in vacuum at 2500rpm, and keeping the temperature;

(4) After emulsification, opening cooling water, cooling to 42 ℃, adding the C-phase raw material, starting a stirrer and a homogenizer, homogenizing at 200rpm, and emulsifying for 8 minutes;

(5) Continuously cooling to 40 ℃, sampling and inspecting;

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

the pearl cream contains the combination of common commercially available pearl powder and a plurality of specific natural plant extracts which are prepared according to a specific proportion, and can play multiple roles of whitening, resisting oxidation, relieving and the like. Compared with the previous generation pearl cream product of the inventor, the variety and the dosage of other natural plant extracts can be reduced by adding the poria cocos extract with lower cost into the pearl cream, but better and more extensive skin care effect can be achieved compared with the previous generation product. Moreover, a certain amount of menthol is added into the pearl cream, so that the absorption of skin to pearl powder and other natural plant extracts can be obviously improved, the effects of reducing the dosage of each component and enhancing the skin beautifying effect of the pearl cream on human skin are achieved, and the effect of using the common commercially available micron-scale pearl powder with lower dosage is better than that of the previous generation product of the nano-scale pearl powder.

Compared with the previous generation products, the new generation pearl cream greatly reduces the production cost, but has better effect and wider beautifying and skin-care function. The pearl cream has the advantages of quick absorption of effective components, no stimulation to human skin, obvious whitening, skin moistening and sun protection effects, multiple functions of moisturizing, promoting synthesis of collagen and elastic fibers, promoting metabolism of skin cells, inhibiting and eliminating pigmentation, resisting ultraviolet rays and electromagnetic radiation, removing free radicals and the like, effective relief and comprehensive improvement of various skin problems such as rough skin, dark yellow skin, sunburn and the like, capability of enabling the skin to be white, tender and elastic from inside to outside, capability of enabling people to glow and stay in youthful state, capability of nourishing skin, tendering skin, shrinking pores, removing acne marks, lightening spots and enhancing skin immunity, and capability of enabling the skin to slowly reach the most healthy state after continuous use.

Detailed Description

In the intensive research on the pearl cream formula, the inventor surprisingly discovers that the variety and the dosage of other natural plant extracts can be reduced by adding the poria cocos extract with lower cost in the pearl cream formula through a large amount of screening, but the pearl cream formula can obtain better and more extensive skin care effect compared with the previous generation products. In addition, a certain amount of menthol is added into the pearl cream, so that the absorption of skin to pearl powder and other natural plant extracts can be obviously improved, the use amount of the components is reduced, and the skin beautifying effect of the pearl cream on human skin is enhanced. The present invention has been completed based on this finding.

In order to facilitate the understanding of those skilled in the art, various major active ingredients involved in the present invention will be described below.

As used herein, the main component of the pearl powder of "pearl powder" is calcium carbonate, and also contains keratin, taurine and various trace elements, and has the functions of diminishing inflammation, tranquilizing and astringing skin when applied on skin. Most of pearl powder sold in the market at present belongs to micron-sized powder, the particle size of the powder is about 15 mu m, aragonite crystals and organic matters are not completely dissociated, and the utilization rate of a human body is less than 10%. The pearl powder used in the pearl cream is common micron-sized pearl powder sold in the market, and the particle size of the powder is 10-20 mu m.

As used herein, "extract of aloe vera leaves" has multifaceted biological activity and is an important additional ingredient in cosmetics. The promotion effect on the growth of fibrin, the inhibition of elastin, the synthesis of collagen and the elimination effect on free radicals show that the skin-activating and anti-aging effects are good; has effects in promoting cholesterol synthesis, changing sebum composition, reducing gloss, and improving skin softness; it also has antibacterial, antiinflammatory and moisture keeping effects.

As used herein, "peony root extract" has anti-aging, skin-tightening and acne-removing effects on the skin. The peony root extract contains antioxidant components, and can effectively delay skin aging. In addition, the collagen fiber gel contained in the peony root extract has a shrinking and antibacterial effect, and can help to tighten the skin, remove fine wrinkles from the skin, and remove acne from the skin. Has good effects on improving the fineness of the skin, improving the whiteness of the skin and shrinking pores.

As used herein, the "extract of ginseng root" is capable of cleansing the skin, removing dirt and oil from the skin. The ginseng root extract can promote cell repair and regeneration, especially remove free radicals in vivo, make skin white and smooth, and continuously stimulate the regeneration capability of skin. In addition, the ginseng root extract also has good moisturizing and nourishing effects, and particularly in dry seasons, the cosmetics containing the ginseng root extract can supplement water required by the skin.

As used herein, "Poria" is the white part of a piece of crude material Poria with the red Poria removed. Multiple studies show that the white poria contains rich chemical components including polysaccharide, triterpene, fatty acid, sterol, enzyme and the like, and has multiple activities of resisting inflammation, resisting bacteria, resisting oxidation and the like.

The invention is further illustrated with reference to specific examples. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are illustrative only and are not limiting upon the scope of the invention.

The examples do not show the specific techniques or conditions, according to the technical or conditions described in the literature in the field, or according to the product specifications. The reagents or instruments used are conventional products which are not known to manufacturers and are available from normal sources.

The experimental procedures in the following examples are conventional unless otherwise specified. The test materials used in the following examples are all commercially available products unless otherwise specified.

Preparation examples:

example 1

phase A raw materials: 8 parts of jojoba seed oil, 4 parts of squalane, 0.5 part of magnesium stearate, 1.5 parts of white beeswax, 4 parts of cocoa butter, 6 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 6 parts of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate and 2 parts of sorbitan sesquioleate;

b phase raw materials: 65 parts of water, 8 parts of pearl powder, 0.3 part of zinc oxide, 1 part of bioglycan-4 parts, 1 part of sodium hyaluronate, 2 parts of tocopherol, 0.7 part of allantoin, 3 parts of glycerol, 1.5 parts of propylene glycol, 3 parts of 1, 2-butanediol and 1, 2-pentanediol, wherein the pearl powder in the phase B raw material is common commercially available micron-sized pearl powder, and the particle size of the powder is 10-20 mu m;

c phase raw material: CI 77891 parts, menthol 1 parts, kusora aloe leaf extract 1 parts, ginseng root extract 0.5 parts, peony root extract 0.5 parts and white poria extract 4 parts.

The preparation method of the whitening and relieving pearl cream comprises the following steps:

(4) After emulsification, opening cooling water, cooling to 42 ℃, adding the C-phase raw material, starting a stirrer and a homogenizer, and homogenizing and emulsifying for 8 minutes at 200 rpm;

(5) Continuously cooling to 40 ℃, sampling and inspecting;

Example 2

phase A raw materials: 6 parts of jojoba seed oil, 5 parts of squalane, 1 part of magnesium stearate, 1.2 parts of white beeswax, 4 parts of cocoa butter, 7 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 6 parts of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate and 2 parts of sorbitan sesquioleate;

b phase raw materials: 70 parts of water, 10 parts of pearl powder, 0.2 part of zinc oxide, 1 part of biogel, 2 parts of sodium hyaluronate, 1 part of tocopherol, 0.8 part of allantoin, 2.8 parts of glycerol, 1.4 parts of propylene glycol, 2.8 parts of 1, 2-butanediol and 1, 2-pentanediol, wherein the pearl powder in the B-phase raw material is micron-sized pearl powder sold in common markets, and the particle size of the powder is 10-20 mu m;

c phase raw material: CI 77891.2 parts, menthol 0.8 parts, kusora aloe leaf extract 1 part, ginseng root extract 0.5 parts, peony root extract 0.5 parts and poria cocos wolf extract 4 parts.

(5) Continuously cooling to 40 ℃, sampling and inspecting;

Example 3

(1) Adding the phase A raw material into an oil phase pot, heating to 85 ℃, stirring at 250rpm, and uniformly dissolving to obtain an oil phase material;

(2) Adding the B-phase raw material into a water phase pot, heating to 85 ℃, stirring at 250rpm, and uniformly dissolving to obtain a water phase material;

(3) Pumping the oil phase material into an emulsifying pot, pumping the water phase material into the emulsifying pot, starting a stirrer, a homogenizer and a vacuum pump, homogenizing and emulsifying for 15 minutes in vacuum, rotating at 2000rpm, and keeping the temperature;

(4) After emulsification, opening cooling water, cooling to 42 ℃, adding the C-phase raw material, starting a stirrer and a homogenizer, homogenizing and emulsifying for 5 minutes at 250 rpm;

(5) Continuously cooling to 40 ℃, sampling and inspecting;

Comparative example 1

Based on example 1, the only difference is that the phase C material does not contain menthol.

Comparative example 2

Based on example 1, the only difference is the composition of the natural plant extracts as follows: 1 part of kusora aloe leaf extract, 0.5 part of ginseng root extract and 0.5 part of peony root extract.

Comparative example 3

Based on example 1, the only difference is the composition of the natural plant extracts as follows: 4 parts of white poria extract.

Comparative example 4

Based on example 1, the only difference is that no natural plant extract is contained in phase C.

Effect embodiment:

effect example 1: whitening effect and free radical removing effect of whitening and relieving pearl cream

The specific experimental method refers to the experimental method of the patent application CN112545970B for beauty and skin care which is developed by the inventor before. The details are as follows:

the inhibition effect of the whitening and soothing pearl cream on tyrosinase is evaluated by constructing a tyrosinase catalytic reaction system. Tyrosinase catalyzed the production of melanin from L-tyrosine in a phosphate buffer system at pH =6.8, with a maximum absorption peak at 475 nm. The whitening and soothing pearl cream containing different natural plant extracts is added into a reaction system to be used as a tyrosinase inhibitor, so that the generation of melanin can be reduced, and the whitening effect of the whitening and soothing pearl cream is evaluated by using the reduction degree of the generation amount of the melanin. DPPH is a stable free radical with nitrogen as the center, and the determination of DPPH clearance is a simple, convenient, rapid and sensitive method in the evaluation of antioxidant activity of natural active substances at present. The antioxidant activity of the whitening and soothing pearl cream containing different natural plant extracts is evaluated by constructing a DPPH free radical scavenging reaction system.

The comparison of the previous generation product adopted in the present embodiment is the pearl cream prepared in the preferred embodiment 3 of the patent application CN 112545970B.

The results of the experiment are shown in table 1.

Table 1: whitening effect and free radical removing effect of whitening and relieving pearl cream

As can be seen from the experimental results in table 1, the whitening and soothing pearl cream of examples 1 to 3 of the present invention (C-phase raw material contains menthol, and the natural plant extract in the C-phase raw material is a combination of the aloe kusoensis leaf extract, the ginseng root extract, the peony root extract and the poria cocos wolf extract, the weight ratio of the four is 1.5. Moreover, the whitening and soothing pearl cream in the embodiments 1 to 3 of the invention has significantly better whitening and free radical scavenging effects than the previous generation products developed before.

As shown in table 1, comparative example 1 (containing no menthol), comparative example 2 (containing no poria cocos wolf extract from a natural plant extract), comparative example 3 (containing only poria cocos wolf extract from a natural plant extract) and comparative example 4 (containing no natural plant extract) were weak in tyrosinase inhibition and DPPH radical clearance.

The results show that the menthol can obviously improve the absorption of common micron-sized pearl powder, and when the pearl cream does not contain the menthol, the whitening and antioxidant effects of the pearl cream are greatly reduced. In addition, the pearl powder whitening and anti-oxidation effects can be remarkably enhanced by adding the natural plant extracts consisting of the kusora aloe leaf extract, the ginseng root extract, the peony root extract and the white poria extract into the pearl cream formula, the white poria extract, the kusora aloe leaf extract, the ginseng root extract and the peony root extract have remarkable synergistic effect, and the four natural plant extracts are all absent in the synergistic effect on the pearl powder.

Effect example 2: test of soothing action of whitening and soothing pearl cream

Test subjects:

80 skin sensitive subjects, 40 each for men and women, aged between 18 and 50 years, were randomized into 4 groups (20 subjects per group): blank control group, example 1 group, comparative example 1 group, previous generation control group. The treatment method comprises the following steps:

the blank control group used only the pearl cream base which was the same formulation as example 1 but did not contain pearl powder and natural plant extracts. The test pearls were used for example 1, comparative example 1 and the previous generation control.

The composition is applied once in the morning and evening every day, and the sensitive area of skin is cleaned before application. The first re-diagnosis is carried out after 3 consecutive days, and the second re-diagnosis is carried out after 7 consecutive days.

And (4) judging the standard:

(1) The effect is shown: the phenomena of red and swollen skin, pruritus and skin damage disappear.

(2) The method has the following advantages: the phenomena of red and swollen skin, pruritus, skin damage and the like are reduced.

(3) And (4) invalidation: the phenomena of red and swollen skin, pruritus, skin damage and the like have no obvious change.

(4) Weighting: red and swollen skin, itching, skin damage, etc.

The treatment results are as follows:

as can be seen from the results in table 2, the subjects of the blank control group had only the blank base for preparing the pearl cream of the present invention because they were not treated in time, and thus the sensitive symptoms gradually worsened during the study.

The soothing effect of the whitening and soothing pearl cream in the embodiment 1 of the invention is obviously better than that of the prior generation control product, the effective percentages of the subjects in the embodiment 1 group of the invention are 95% and 100% respectively at the time of the 3 rd day and the 7 th day of the return visit, and the result is obviously better than that of the prior generation product (30% and 20% respectively at the 3 rd day and the 7 th day). Also, as can be seen from the results of the comparative example 1 group, no subjects showed significant effects at the time of the 3 rd and 7 th day of the re-diagnosis in the comparative example 1 group. Therefore, after the menthol is added into the formula of the pearl cream, the relieving effect of the common micron pearl powder sold in the market can be obviously enhanced, which is probably related to the effect that the menthol enhances the skin to absorb active ingredients in the pearl powder and the cooling and relieving effect of the menthol.

Table 2: test result of relieving effect of whitening and relieving pearl cream

The above results show that the pearl cream of the present invention contains the combination of common commercially available pearl powder and various specific natural plant extracts prepared in specific proportions, and has multiple effects of whitening, oxidation resistance, soothing, etc. Compared with the previous generation pearl cream product of the inventor, the variety and the dosage of other natural plant extracts can be reduced by adding the white poria extract with lower cost into the pearl cream, but better and more extensive skin care effect can be achieved compared with the previous generation product. Moreover, a certain amount of menthol is added into the pearl cream, so that the absorption of skin to pearl powder and other natural plant extracts can be obviously improved, the effects of reducing the dosage of each component and enhancing the skin beautifying effect of the pearl cream on human skin are achieved, and the effect of using the common commercially available micron-scale pearl powder with lower dosage is better than that of the previous generation product of the nano-scale pearl powder.

The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, several modifications or equivalents may be made to the technical solution without departing from the principle of the present invention, and these modifications or equivalents should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. The whitening and relieving pearl cream is characterized in that: comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight:

c phase raw material: CI 77891 parts, menthol 1 parts, kusora aloe leaf extract 1 parts, ginseng root extract 0.5 parts, peony root extract 0.5 parts and white poria extract 4 parts,

(5) Continuously cooling to 40 ℃, sampling and inspecting;

2. The preparation method of the whitening and soothing pearl cream according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps:

(5) Continuously cooling to 40 ℃, sampling and inspecting;