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CN108670933B - Skin care composition with moisturizing, whitening and anti-aging functions and application thereof - Google Patents

Skin care composition with moisturizing, whitening and anti-aging functions and application thereof Download PDF

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CN108670933B
CN108670933B CN201810931251.XA CN201810931251A CN108670933B CN 108670933 B CN108670933 B CN 108670933B CN 201810931251 A CN201810931251 A CN 201810931251A CN 108670933 B CN108670933 B CN 108670933B
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skin
component
care composition
extract
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CN108670933A (en
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霍昕
陆宽
周建华
冯发进
潘年琼
杨迺嘉
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Guizhou Biotechnology Research And Development Base Co ltd
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GUIZHOU BIOTECHNOLOGY RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT BASE
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/06Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • A61K36/07Basidiomycota, e.g. Cryptococcus
    • A61K36/076Poria
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/87Vitaceae or Ampelidaceae (Vine or Grape family), e.g. wine grapes, muscadine or peppervine
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/88Liliopsida (monocotyledons)
    • A61K36/898Orchidaceae (Orchid family)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88Polyamides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9728Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/18Antioxidants, e.g. antiradicals
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

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Abstract

本发明涉及化妆品技术领域,具体涉及兼具保湿、美白、抗衰老的护肤组合物及其应用,组合物包括A组分为白芨提取物、白蔹提取物、茯苓提取物;B组分为棕榈酰三肽‑1、乙酰基六肽‑8;C组分为聚谷氨酸,本发明的护肤组合物配伍科学,能够快速控制皮肤溢油、收敛毛孔、美白肌肤、锁住肌肤的水份,同时促进皮肤新陈代谢,增强皮肤的活力和抗菌力,增强清除自由基能力和免疫能力,减少色素沉着,防止皮肤松弛。且本发明的护肤组合物不含西药成份,对皮肤安全无刺激、无副作用,原料具有来源广泛,成本低等优点,且具有长效功能。The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a skin care composition with moisturizing, whitening and anti-aging properties and application thereof. The composition includes component A: Bletilla striata extract, Radix Paeoniae Alba extract and Poria cocos extract; component B is palm Acyl tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8; the C component is polyglutamic acid, the skin care composition of the present invention is scientifically compatible, and can quickly control skin oil spills, tighten pores, whiten skin, and lock skin moisture , At the same time promote skin metabolism, enhance skin vitality and antibacterial power, enhance free radical scavenging ability and immunity, reduce pigmentation, prevent skin sagging. In addition, the skin care composition of the present invention does not contain western medicine ingredients, is safe, has no irritation to the skin, has no side effects, has the advantages of wide sources of raw materials, low cost and the like, and has a long-acting function.

Description

Skin care composition with moisturizing, whitening and anti-aging functions and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a skin care composition with the functions of moisturizing, whitening and resisting aging and application thereof.
Background
Bletilla striata is a kind of bletilla striata in the orchid family, enters lung channel, is cool in medicine property, sweet and bitter in medicine taste, has the effects of astringing, stopping bleeding, diminishing swelling, promoting tissue regeneration and resisting bacteria, is used as a traditional essential plant for diminishing inflammation, relieving itching, clearing heat, removing toxicity, removing necrotic tissue and promoting tissue regeneration, and is commonly used as a functional component of natural cosmetics due to no toxic or side effect. Biological function tests show that the bletilla striata extract has obvious growth promoting effect on human skin fibroblasts cultured in vitro, has anti-aging effect on human fibroblasts, and can delay the process of cell aging.
The ampelopsis japonica is dry root tuber of ampelopsis japonica of Vitaceae, belongs to stomach channel and heart channel, is cold in nature and bitter in medicinal taste, has the effects of clearing heat, removing toxicity, eliminating carbuncle and dissipating binds, contains mucus and starch, is thin in white matter, is a common medicine in a beauty treatment formula, and has the effects of whitening, treating facial freckles, clearing heat and dispelling wind. The book of Shen nong Ben Cao Jing (Shen nong's herbal): mainly resolving carbuncle, swelling, sore, dissipating stagnation and relieving pain. In the formula of beauty treatment, it is commonly used to relieve swelling, heal wound and treat various skin diseases. Modern researches have proved that Ampelopsis japonica has an inhibitory effect on dermatophytes.
The tuckahoe is a fungus plant parasitic on the roots of the pine trees, enters heart channels, lung channels and spleen channels, has mild drug property and sweet and light drug taste, and has the effects of promoting diuresis, excreting dampness, strengthening spleen and calming heart. Modern pharmacological research shows that the tuckahoe has various pharmacological activities of regulating immunologic function, resisting tumor, resisting inflammation, resisting aging and the like. The beautifying effect of tuckahoe has a long history, and the ancient people mainly record the tuckahoe in the aspect of beautifying: in Bencao gang mu, Fu Ling "the wine soaked with it can moisten the body, keep the aged and face young; recorded in Bao Pu Zi recorded that Poria is 'effective in removing facial scar and luster face for a long time'; according to the record of the materia medica article collection essence, the white poria is in powder, mixed with honey, applied on the face to treat face sore and black herpes of lying-in women such as sparrow eggs; the records of tuckahoe beautifying are also recorded in 'post-experience prescription', and eating tuckahoe with whooping can moisten skin, prolong life and resist aging. In addition, the pachymaran has better moisture absorption and retention performance, and the effects of nourishing skin, no stimulation and the like, so that the pachymaran also has potential application value in the field of cosmetics.
The origin of the traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics is earlier, but the development and popularization of the traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics are limited due to unreasonable compatibility, large toxic and side effects, easy drug resistance and slow effect, for example, the ancient formula of the eight Baisan is white clove, white muscardine silkworm, rhizoma typhonii, white morning glory, radix angelicae dahuricae, white caltrop, white poria cocos and bletilla striata, and 4 medicines are clearly screened in the research and development of the New eight Baisan (published in 2017 by the child Rensliao), so as to replace 3 forbidden medicines (radix angelicae dahuricae, semen pharbitidis and rhizoma typhonii) in the original formula and white clove which is not suitable for the cosmetics, so as to form the new eight Baisan, and the specific formula of the new eight Baisan is white muscardine silkworm, white poria cocos, rhizoma bletillae, white caltrop, white mulberry bark, Japanese ampelopsis root, white paeony root and pearl powder. In addition, the hot trend of modern cosmetics is directed towards the development of biological beauty and genetic beauty, and the traditional cosmetics are urgently needed to be improved so as to overcome the defects of the prior art.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention provides a skin care composition with the functions of moisturizing, whitening and resisting aging and an application thereof.
The method is realized according to the following technical scheme:
a skin care composition with moisture retention, whitening and anti-aging functions comprises 11-25 parts of a component A, 0.1-1.4 parts of a component B and 0.1-3 parts of a component C in parts by weight; the component A is bletilla striata extract, ampelopsis japonica extract and poria cocos extract; the component B is palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and acetyl hexapeptide-8; the component C is polyglutamic acid.
Further, the skin care composition with the functions of moisturizing, whitening and resisting aging also comprises the following components in parts by weight: 8-15 parts of component D, wherein the component D is a cosmetic auxiliary material or a cosmetic matrix.
1. Further, the cosmetic auxiliary materials comprise the following components in parts by weight: 27.3-65.7 parts of purified water, 15-28 parts of glycerol and 0.1-0.3 part of sodium lauryl sulfate.
Further, the cosmetic matrix is one or more of glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isopropyl palmitate, polydimethylsiloxane, tocopherol, essence, methyl hydroxybenzoate and propyl hydroxybenzoate.
Further, the component A comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-10 parts of bletilla striata extract, 1-5 parts of ampelopsis japonica extract and 5-10 parts of poria cocos extract.
Further, the component B comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.05-1.2 parts of palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and 0.05-0.2 parts of acetyl hexapeptide-8.
The component A and the preparation method thereof are as follows: cleaning rhizoma Bletillae, radix Ampelopsis, and Poria, respectively, oven drying at 77-82 deg.C, pulverizing, adding 10-20 times of water by weight of the above raw materials, soaking for no less than 25min, heating to 90-100 deg.C, decocting for 1.0-2.0h, filtering to obtain medicinal liquid, vacuum concentrating the medicinal liquid to 3-5 times of the weight of the raw materials, standing, filtering, collecting filtrate as rhizoma Bletillae extract, radix Ampelopsis extract, and Poria extract, respectively, and mixing the extracts.
And (3) crushing, wherein the granularity of the crushed material is 10 meshes.
The skin care composition with the functions of moisturizing, whitening and resisting aging is applied to the production of masks, eye creams, face creams, essences, face cleaning lotions, skin toning water, emulsions, hydrolat and sun screen.
The production method of any one of essence, toner, hydrolat and facial mask comprises the following steps: placing cosmetic adjuvants in component D in a stirring container, heating to 65-70 deg.C at a speed of 3-4 deg.C/min, stirring, keeping the temperature for more than 5min, cooling to 35-40 deg.C at a speed of 3-5 deg.C/min, adding component A, stirring for 10-15min to mix the materials uniformly, adding essence, component B and component C, stirring for 10-15min, discharging, and standing.
The production method of any one of face cream, eye cream, face cleaning cream, emulsion and makeup base comprises the following steps:
pre-dissolution of the aqueous phase of S1: putting the glycerol and the purified water in the component D into a water phase jacketed kettle of a vacuum emulsifying machine, heating to 85-90 ℃ at the speed of 3-4 ℃/min, starting stirring at the rotation speed of 85 r/min, stirring and mixing for 5-10min, and adding sodium lauryl sulfate to disperse uniformly;
pre-dissolving of the oil phase of S2: placing the cosmetic matrix except essence in oil phase jacketed pan of vacuum emulsifying machine, heating to 85-90 deg.C at 3-4 deg.C/min, stirring at 85 rpm, stirring for mixing and dissolving;
s3 emulsification: feeding the water phase and oil phase materials into an emulsifying pot, emulsifying at the rotation speed of 2500-0.04 MPa and the temperature of 70-80 ℃ for 5-10min under the conditions of the vacuum degree of-0.03-0.04 MPa, cooling to 35-40 ℃ at the speed of 3-5 ℃/min, adding the component A, stirring for 10-15min to uniformly mix the materials, then adding the essence, the component B and the component C, stirring for 10-15min, discharging and standing.
The bletilla striata polysaccharide is fully dissolved out, the polysaccharide activity and the bletilla striata dissolving-out structure are improved by reasonably extracting the bletilla striata, so that the bletilla striata extract has the effects of promoting growth and resisting aging on skin cells and can delay cell aging. According to the invention, the Ampelopsis japonica is reasonably extracted, so that the naturalness of the extract is ensured to the maximum extent, the whitening components are fully dissolved out, the activity of tyrosinase is controlled, and the formation of melanin is reduced. The invention extracts tuckahoe reasonably, fully dissolves pachymaran, lecithin, trace protease, various inorganic elements and the like, and enhances the immunity of the organism.
On the basis of traditional Chinese medicine monarch, minister, guide, adjuvant and five-element health preservation, the effective components in the plants are extracted, and mainly comprise tannin, protein, amino acid, alkaloid, polysaccharide, volatile oil and the like, so that the effective components are mutually cooperated and promoted; the amino acid has high safety to environment and organisms, mild skin effect, small irritation, good foaming and emulsifying properties, strong dirt-removing power, good biodegradability, and good antibacterial and bactericidal properties. The polysaccharides have film forming property, adsorbability, water retention property and excellent lubricity, and can help the moisturizing factor to form a film and adhere to the surface of skin to form a water film, effectively remove dead cells on the surface of the skin and deeply clean the skin. The protein is hydrolyzed to form polypeptide, and the peptide has strong activity and diversity, and can promote active ingredients such as tannin, alkaloid, volatile oil, etc. to permeate into epidermis and be absorbed, promote collagen production, resist inflammation and resist oxidation. The alkaloid and volatile oil can prevent external environmental pollution or wrinkle, tarnish, dryness, and lack of luster caused by computer radiation. The volatile oil can inhibit tyrosinase activity and active oxygen generation.
The polyglutamic acid used in the invention is the main component of the viscous colloid in the natto, contains a large amount of free carboxyl on the main chain, can generate reactions such as cross linking, chelating, derivatization and the like, has strong water solubility, biocompatibility and biodegradability, has high water absorption capacity and slow release capacity, can effectively reduce the loss of skin moisture, and enables skin tissues to have increased elasticity, tenderness and smoothness and luster.
The palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and the acetyl hexapeptide-8 used in the invention have extremely strong activity and diversity, can promote active ingredients such as tannin, alkaloid, volatile oil and the like to permeate into the epidermis to be absorbed, can promote the generation of collagen, and can help to resist inflammation and resist oxidation.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
the skin care composition provided by the invention is scientific in compatibility, can quickly control skin oil spilling, astringe pores, whiten skin, lock skin moisture, promote skin metabolism, enhance skin activity and antibacterial power, enhance free radical scavenging capacity and immunity, reduce pigmentation and prevent skin relaxation. The skin care composition does not contain western medicine components, is safe and non-irritant to skin, does not have side effects, has the advantages of wide raw material source, low cost and the like, and has a long-acting function.
The invention organically combines the traditional Chinese medicine whitening conditioning components, the antioxidant components, the polyglutamic acid which can be used as a high-efficiency moisturizing factor and a transportation carrier, and the like, is balanced in function, makes up for deficiencies of the components, and achieves the effects of long-acting whitening, moisturizing and anti-aging on the basis of ensuring the safety.
At present, the traditional Chinese medicinal materials with moisturizing, whitening and anti-aging effects are more, such as: chinese angelica, ginseng, lucid ganoderma, pearl, ginkgo leaf, dendrobium, coix seed, cordyceps sinensis, lithospermum, poria cocos, tree peony bark and the like, but traditional Chinese medicinal materials are directly used as auxiliary materials of cosmetics and a matrix to prepare a skin care product, so that the defects of the traditional Chinese medicine skin care product can be overcome by adding high moisturizing factors polyglutamic acid with different molecular weights and active peptide in the further optimization process, in order to improve the moisturizing, whitening and antioxidation performances, ten kinds of medicinal materials such as bletilla striata, poria cocos, Japanese ampelopsis, coix seed, dendrobe, angelica sinensis, ginseng and the like are tried to be added, the matching of primary and secondary medicines is carried out, and the effects can be better achieved by primarily determining that the bletilla striata is used as a monarch medicine, the poria cocos is used as a ministerial medicine, and the Japanese ampelopsis used as an adjuvant through multiple prescription screening.
The invention verifies the raw material collocation and the process control in the invention from three aspects of whitening, anti-aging and safety.
Firstly, screening raw materials
The invention obtains the following formulas (shown in table 1) by screening a plurality of traditional Chinese medicine raw materials and effective components with moisturizing, whitening and antioxidation functions:
TABLE 1
Figure BDA0001766673610000061
Figure BDA0001766673610000071
The emulsion is produced from the above composition according to the process disclosed in the present invention.
1.1 whitening efficacy
Assay to inhibit melanin synthesis in mouse melanocytes:
b16 mouse melanoma cells at 1X 105The cells/ml were plated on a 9cm diameter petri dish at 37 deg.C in 5% CO2Culturing for 2 days, discarding the supernatant, adding 18-22ml of sample solution after filtration and sterilization, culturing for 3 days, discarding the supernatant, washing with PBS, adding 0.5ml of pancreatin solution with the mass percent of 0.2% into each hole for digesting cells for 3min, adding 2ml of maintenance solution into each dish for terminating digestion, uniformly blowing, taking out 0.5ml of each concentration for counting cells, centrifuging the rest cell suspension for 5min at 2500r/min, discarding the supernatant, adding a NaoH solution into the precipitate, heating to dissolve melanin, and selecting an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay instrument with the wavelength of 490nm for measuring the absorbance value.
Melanin synthesis inhibition rate ═ 1- (drug well absorbance + drug well cell density) + (control well absorbance + control well cell density) × 100%.
The results of the experiment for inhibiting melanin synthesis in mouse melanocytes are shown in Table 2
TABLE 2
Inhibition ratio (%)
Formulation group 1 92.3
Formulation group 2 72.5
Formulation group 3 84.1
Formulation group 4 77.6
Formulation group 5 65.7
Formulation group 6 63.8
Formulation group 7 87.7
Formulation group 8 70.2
Formulation group 9 81.4
Formulation group 10 73.9
1.2 anti-aging efficacy
1.2.1 Experimental materials
Taking the emulsion prepared by the formula groups 1-10
Experimental animals: kunming mouse, 18-22g in weight, half in sex, provided by animal research laboratory of Guiyang medical college.
1.2.2 Experimental methods
1.2.2.1 establishing 60 Kunming mice of an aging animal model, each half of the mice is divided into 12 groups randomly, each group comprises 5 mice, and the groups respectively comprise a normal control group, a model group and a formula group 1-10. Except for the normal control group, 120mg/kg of D-galactose aqueous solution is injected subcutaneously every day for 28 days continuously, and 0.2ml of normal saline is injected subcutaneously at the back of the neck every day. Each group of animals was modeled while gavage the corresponding receiving agent daily. The formula groups 1-10 mice were applied to the epidermis of the body once a day in an amount of 0.5 ml/time for 4 weeks (the normal control group and the aging model group were gazed with an equal amount of physiological saline). The mice are cut off and blood is taken out 30min after the last administration, and the content or activity of serum SOD and GSH-Px is determined.
1.2.2.2GSH-Px Activity measurements were calculated from GSH standard curves using the 2-nitrobenzoic acid method (DTNB method). Considering GSH, H2O2Since the above reaction can be carried out without enzymes, the activity of GSH-Px must be calculated at the end, except for the reduction of GSH caused by the enzyme reaction. GSH standard curves were prepared according to literature methods.
1.2.2.3SOD determination by xanthine oxidase-hydroxylamine method, adding serum to be tested (with dH)2Diluted 50 times with O) 0.5ml, dH20.1ml of O, 0.1ml of matrix solution, 0.1ml of nitroso generator and 0.2ml of enzyme solution, and keeping the temperature at 37 ℃ for 30 min. Then adding 2ml of color developing agent, standing at room temperature for 10min, and standing at 550nmThe absorbance was measured at the length. Control tube with 0.5ml dH2O replaced serum samples. The enzyme activity unit (NU) is defined as the amount of enzyme required to inhibit 50% of xanthine oxidase from catalyzing the oxidation of a substrate within 30min, and the serum SOD activity is expressed as the number of enzyme activity units per ml of serum.
The test results are shown in Table 3.
TABLE 3 Effect on mouse serum SOD and GSH-Px content
Figure BDA0001766673610000101
Group of n SOD(U/ml) GSH-Px(U/ml)
Normal control group 5 1638.5±125.8 15.83±2.26
Aging model group 5 1391.7±424.3* 12.22±1.78*
Formulation group 1 5 1723.2±265.1** 16.48±2.71**
Formulation group 2 5 1706.4±132.6** 15.38±2.34**
Formulation group 3 5 1677.5±262.7** 14.66±2.08**
Formulation group 4 5 1543.8±312.5** 14.92±1.95**
Formulation group 5 5 1603.9±176.5** 15.19±2.11**
Formulation group 6 5 1667.1±89.3** 16.02±1.73**
Formulation group 7 5 1589.3±108.1** 15.48±1.07**
Formulation group 8 5 1645.5±117.6** 15.36±2.25**
Formulation group 9 5 1632.7±254.8** 15.67±3.01**
Formulation group 10 5 1590.5±223.9** 14.84±2.94**
Note: comparison with normal control group: p < 0.01; p < 0.05 in comparison with aging model group
The results in table 3 show that the skin care composition of the present invention significantly increases the level of SOD in blood and the activity of GSH-Px, indicating that the skin care composition of the present invention can inhibit lipid peroxidation caused by D-galactose, and has anti-aging activity.
1.3 safety test
1.3.1 acute toxicity test on skin
Selecting 10 Wistar rats with male and female halves, weight of 200g, sampling at a dosage of 5000mg/kg body weight, and smearing on depilated area (range of 30-40 cm)2) Covering with two layers of parchment paper, and sealing and fixing with non-irritant adhesive plaster for 24 h. After 24h, the animals were removed from the test and observed for signs of intoxication for a period of 7 days. The results show that: none of the rats in the formula group died.
1.3.2 multiple skin irritation tests
Wistar rats were selected at 10 rats and weighed 200 g. Sampling at a dosage of 5000mg/kg body weight, and applying to depilated area (range of 30-40 cm)2) Sealing and fixing with non-irritant adhesive plaster for 1h, and taking the left depilatory area as control, 1 time per day for 20 days. The test article was washed with distilled water each time before being applied to the test article from day 2, and the skin irritation reaction results were observed after 1 hour. The results show that: the formula groups 1-5 have no irritation, and the formula groups 6-10 have skin allergy, red swelling and other phenomena.
1.4 moisture Retention test
1.4.1 Experimental materials
Taking the emulsion prepared by the formula groups 1-10.
1.4.2 Experimental methods
Weighing 30g of sample on a watch glass, drying the sample for 24 hours at the temperature of 85 ℃, weighing the sample again, and calculating the water loss rate according to the following formula: the water loss rate is (M1-M2)/M1 multiplied by 100 percent, and M1 and M2 are the total weight of the product and the watch glass respectively before and after the experiment.
The results are shown in Table 4.
TABLE 4
Figure BDA0001766673610000111
Figure BDA0001766673610000121
Second, process screening
The raw material components are as follows: the component A comprises: 5g of bletilla striata extract, 1g of ampelopsis japonica extract, 5g of poria cocos extract, and the component B: palmitoyl tripeptide-11 g, acetyl hexapeptide-80.1 g, and a component C: 1.5g of polyglutamic acid, component D: on the basis of 8g of essence auxiliary materials, the essence is prepared by adopting the following processes respectively:
Figure BDA0001766673610000122
Figure BDA0001766673610000131
Figure BDA0001766673610000141
2.1 moisturizing and whitening effects
Assay to inhibit melanin synthesis in mouse melanocytes:
b16 mouse melanoma cells at 1X 105The cells/ml were plated on a 9cm diameter petri dish at 37 deg.C in 5% CO2Culturing for 2 days, discarding the supernatant, adding 18-22ml of sample solution after filtration and sterilization, culturing for 3 days, discarding the supernatant, washing with PBS, adding 0.5ml of pancreatin solution with the mass percent of 0.2% into each hole for digesting cells for 3min, adding 2ml of maintenance solution into each dish for terminating digestion, uniformly blowing, taking out 0.5ml of each concentration for counting cells, centrifuging the rest cell suspension for 5min at 2500r/min, discarding the supernatant, adding a NaoH solution into the precipitate, heating to dissolve melanin, and selecting an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay instrument with the wavelength of 490nm for measuring the absorbance value.
Melanin synthesis inhibition rate ═ 1- (drug well absorbance + drug well cell density) + (control well absorbance + control well cell density) × 100%.
Results of the experiment for inhibiting melanin synthesis in mouse melanocytes are shown in Table 5
TABLE 5
Inhibition ratio (%)
Process group 1 92.3
Process group 2 85.6
Process group 3 86.3
Process group 4 81.2
Process group 5 79.0
Process group 6 81.9
Process group 7 82.1
Process group 8 84.7
2.2 anti-aging efficacy
2.2.1 Experimental materials
Taking the emulsion prepared by the formula groups 1-10
Experimental animals: kunming mouse, 18-22g in weight, half in sex, provided by animal research laboratory of Guiyang medical college.
2.2.2 Experimental methods
2.2.2.1 establishing 60 Kunming mice of the aging animal model, each half of the mice is divided into 12 groups randomly, each group comprises 5 mice, and the groups are respectively a normal control group, a model group and a formula group 1-10. Except for the normal control group, 120mg/kg of D-galactose aqueous solution is injected subcutaneously every day for 28 days continuously, and 0.2ml of normal saline is injected subcutaneously at the back of the neck every day. Each group of animals was modeled while gavage the corresponding receiving agent daily. The mice of the technical groups 1 to 8 are coated on the epidermis of the body once a day according to the amount of 0.5 ml/time, and are continuously coated for 4 weeks (the normal control group and the aging model group are irrigated with the same amount of normal saline). The mice are cut off and blood is taken out 30min after the last administration, and the content or activity of serum SOD and GSH-Px is determined.
2.2.2.2 measurement of GSH-Px Activity calculated from the GSH standard curve using the 2-nitrobenzoic acid method (DTNB method). Considering GSH, H2O2Since the above reaction can be carried out without enzymes, the activity of GSH-Px must be calculated at the end, except for the reduction of GSH caused by the enzyme reaction. GSH standard curve according toThe method is prepared by a literature method.
2.2.2.3SOD determination is carried out by adding to-be-tested serum (by dH) sequentially by xanthine oxidase-hydroxylamine method2Diluted 50 times with O) 0.5ml, dH20.1ml of O, 0.1ml of matrix solution, 0.1ml of nitroso generator and 0.2ml of enzyme solution, and keeping the temperature at 37 ℃ for 30 min. Then, 2ml of a color developing agent was added thereto, and the mixture was left at room temperature for 10min, and the absorbance was measured at a wavelength of 550 nm. Control tube with 0.5ml dH2O replaced serum samples. The enzyme activity unit (NU) is defined as the amount of enzyme required to inhibit 50% of xanthine oxidase from catalyzing the oxidation of a substrate within 30min, and the serum SOD activity is expressed as the number of enzyme activity units per ml of serum.
The results are shown in Table 6.
TABLE 6 Effect on mouse serum SOD and GSH-Px content
Figure BDA0001766673610000161
Group of n SOD(U/ml) GSH-Px(U/ml)
Normal control group 5 1638.5±125.8 15.83±2.26
Aging model group 5 1391.7±424.3* 12.22±1.78*
Process group 1 5 1722.6±266.3** 16.98±2.11**
Process group 2 5 1639.1±201.3** 16.37±1.92**
Process group 3 5 1617.8±177.5** 15.22±1.85**
Process group 4 5 1645.5±98.4** 15.71±2.03**
Process group 5 5 1892.7±104.5** 16.19±2.13**
Process group 6 5 1611.9±76.8** 15.32±1.76**
Process group 7 5 1557.9±213.5** 14.85±2.01**
Process group 8 5 1582.4±186.2** 16.12±1.55**
Note: comparison with normal control group: p < 0.01; p < 0.05 in comparison with aging model group
2.3 safety test
2.3.1 acute toxicity test on skin
Selecting 10 Wistar rats with male and female halves, weight of 200g, sampling at a dosage of 5000mg/kg body weight, and smearing on depilated area (range of 30-40 cm)2) Covering with two layers of parchment paper, and sealing and fixing with non-irritant adhesive plaster for 24 h. After 24h, the animals were removed from the test and observed for signs of intoxication for a period of 7 days. The results show that: none of the rats in the technical group died.
2.3.2 multiple skin irritation tests
Wistar rats were selected at 10 rats and weighed 200 g. Sampling at a dosage of 5000mg/kg body weight, and applying to depilated area (range of 30-40 cm)2) Sealing and fixing with non-irritant adhesive plaster for 1h, and taking the left depilatory area as control, 1 time per day for 20 days. The test article was washed with distilled water each time before being applied to the test article from day 2, and the skin irritation reaction results were observed after 1 hour. The results show that: no irritation occurred in the process group.
2.4 moisture Retention test
2.4.1 Experimental materials
Samples prepared in Process groups 1-8 were taken.
2.4.2 Experimental methods
Weighing 30g of sample on a watch glass, drying the sample for 24 hours at the temperature of 85 ℃, weighing the sample again, and calculating the water loss rate according to the following formula: the water loss rate is (M1-M2)/M1 multiplied by 100 percent, and M1 and M2 are the total weight of the product and the watch glass respectively before and after the experiment.
The results are shown in Table 7.
TABLE 7
Figure BDA0001766673610000171
Figure BDA0001766673610000181
Detailed Description
The following is a detailed description of the embodiments of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to these embodiments, and any modifications or substitutions in the basic spirit of the embodiments are included in the scope of the present invention as claimed in the claims.
Example 1
A skin care composition with moisturizing, whitening and anti-aging functions comprises:
the component A comprises: 7g of bletilla striata extract, 3g of ampelopsis japonica extract and 8g of poria cocos extract;
and B component: 0.52g palmitoyl tripeptide-1, 0.12g acetyl hexapeptide-8;
and C, component C: 1.8g of polyglutamic acid;
the preparation method of the component A comprises the following steps: cleaning rhizoma Bletillae, radix Ampelopsis, and Poria, respectively, oven drying at 82 deg.C, pulverizing to 10 mesh, adding 20 times of water, soaking for 28min, heating to 100 deg.C, decocting for 2.0h, filtering to obtain medicinal liquid, vacuum concentrating to 5 times of the weight of the raw materials, standing, filtering, collecting filtrate as rhizoma Bletillae extract, radix Ampelopsis extract, and Poria extract, and mixing the extracts;
the skin care composition with the functions of moisturizing, whitening and resisting aging is applied to the production of masks, eye creams, face creams, essences, face cleaning lotions, skin toning water, emulsions, hydrolat and sun screen.
Example 2
A skin care composition with moisturizing, whitening and anti-aging functions comprises:
the component A comprises: 10g bletilla striata extract, 5g ampelopsis japonica extract and 10g poria cocos extract;
and B component: 1.2g palmitoyl tripeptide-1, 0.2g acetyl hexapeptide-8;
and C, component C: 3g of polyglutamic acid;
the preparation method of the component A comprises the following steps: cleaning rhizoma Bletillae, radix Ampelopsis, and Poria, respectively, oven drying at 77 deg.C, pulverizing to 10 mesh, adding 10 times of water, soaking for 25min, heating to 90 deg.C, decocting for 1.0h, filtering to obtain medicinal liquid, vacuum concentrating to 3 times of the weight of the raw materials, standing, filtering, collecting filtrate as rhizoma Bletillae extract, radix Ampelopsis extract, and Poria extract, and mixing the extracts;
the skin care composition with the functions of moisturizing, whitening and resisting aging is applied to the production of masks, eye creams, face creams, essences, face cleaning lotions, skin toning water, emulsions, hydrolat and sun screen.
Example 3
A skin care composition with moisturizing, whitening and anti-aging functions comprises:
the component A comprises: 5g bletilla striata extract, 1g ampelopsis japonica extract and 5g poria cocos extract;
and B component: 0.05g palmitoyl tripeptide-1, 0.05g acetyl hexapeptide-8;
and C, component C: 0.1g of polyglutamic acid;
the preparation method of the component A comprises the following steps: cleaning rhizoma Bletillae, radix Ampelopsis, and Poria, respectively, oven drying at 80 deg.C, pulverizing to 10 mesh, adding 15 times of water, soaking for 30min, heating to 95 deg.C, decocting for 1.5h, filtering to obtain medicinal liquid, vacuum concentrating to 4 times of the weight of the raw materials, standing, filtering, collecting filtrate as rhizoma Bletillae extract, radix Ampelopsis extract, and Poria extract, and mixing the extracts;
the skin care composition is applied to the production of facial masks, eye creams, face creams, essences, face cleansers, skin lotions, hydrolat and sun screens.
Example 4
On the basis of any one of the embodiments 1 to 3, the skin care composition with the functions of moisturizing, whitening and resisting aging further comprises a component D of 10g, and is applied to the production of any one of essence, toner, hydrolat and facial mask, and the production method comprises the following steps:
placing cosmetic adjuvants in component D in a stirring container, heating to 65-70 deg.C at a speed of 3-4 deg.C/min, stirring, keeping the temperature for more than 5min, cooling to 35-40 deg.C at a speed of 3-5 deg.C/min, adding component A, stirring for 10-15min to mix the materials uniformly, adding essence, component B and component C, stirring for 10-15min, discharging, and standing;
the component D comprises: 35g of purified water, 22g of glycerol and 0.1g of sodium lauryl sulfate.
Example 5
On the basis of any one of the embodiments 1-3, the skin care composition with the functions of moisturizing, whitening and resisting aging also comprises a component D of 15g, and is applied to the production of any one of face cream, eye cream, facial cleanser, emulsion and sun screen, and the production method comprises the following steps:
pre-dissolution of the aqueous phase of S1: putting the glycerol and the purified water in the component D into a water phase jacketed kettle of a vacuum emulsifying machine, heating to 85-90 ℃ at the speed of 3-4 ℃/min, starting stirring at the rotation speed of 85 r/min, stirring and mixing for 5-10min, and adding sodium lauryl sulfate to disperse uniformly;
pre-dissolving of the oil phase of S2: placing the cosmetic matrix except essence in oil phase jacketed pan of vacuum emulsifying machine, heating to 85-90 deg.C at 3-4 deg.C/min, stirring at 85 rpm, stirring for mixing and dissolving;
s3 emulsification: feeding the water phase and oil phase materials into an emulsifying pot, emulsifying at the rotation speed of 2500-2800 r/min and the vacuum degree of-0.03-0.04 MPa at 70-80 ℃ for 5-10min, cooling to 35-40 ℃ at the speed of 3-5 ℃/min, adding the component A, stirring for 10-15min to uniformly mix the materials, adding the essence, the component B and the component C, stirring for 10-15min, discharging and standing;
the cosmetic auxiliary materials comprise: 43g of purified water, 24g of glycerol, 0.2g of sodium lauryl sulfate;
the cosmetic matrix is a composition of glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isopropyl palmitate, polydimethylsiloxane, tocopherol, essence, methyl hydroxybenzoate and propyl hydroxybenzoate.

Claims (6)

1.兼具保湿、美白、抗衰老的护肤组合物,其特征在于,以重量份计包括11-25份A组分、0.1-1.4份B组分、0.1-3份C组分;所述A组分为白芨提取物、白蔹提取物、茯苓提取物;所述B组分为棕榈酰三肽-1、乙酰基六肽-8;所述C组分为聚谷氨酸;1. a skin care composition with moisturizing, whitening and anti-aging, characterized in that, in parts by weight, it comprises 11-25 parts of components A, 0.1-1.4 parts of components B, and 0.1-3 parts of components C; the The A component is Bletilla striata extract, the Baiji extract, and the Poria cocos extract; the B component is palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and acetyl hexapeptide-8; the C component is polyglutamic acid; 所述A组分以重量份计包括:5-10份白芨提取物、1-5份白蔹提取物、5-10份茯苓提取物;The A component includes, in parts by weight: 5-10 parts of Bletilla striata extract, 1-5 parts of Bletilla striata extract, 5-10 parts of Poria cocos extract; 所述A组分,其制备方法:分别取白芨、白蔹、茯苓三味原料药清洗干净,置于温度为77-82℃条件下烘干后,粉碎,加入上述原料药重量的10-20倍量水,浸泡不少于25min,再加热至90-100℃,煎煮1.0-2.0h,过滤得药液,将药液经真空减压浓缩至原料药重量的3-5倍,过滤,取滤液分别作为白芨提取物、白蔹提取物、茯苓提取物,将提取物混合均匀。Described A component, its preparation method: take Bletilla striata, Radix Radix et Rhizoma, and Poria three raw materials respectively, clean, dry at a temperature of 77-82 ℃, pulverize, add 10-20 times the weight of the above-mentioned raw materials Amount of water, soak for no less than 25min, then heat to 90-100℃, decoct for 1.0-2.0h, filter to obtain medicinal liquid, concentrate the medicinal liquid to 3-5 times the weight of the raw material by vacuum decompression, filter, take The filtrate was respectively used as Bletilla striata extract, Bletilla striata extract, Poria cocos extract, and the extracts were mixed uniformly. 2.如权利要求1所述的兼具保湿、美白、抗衰老的护肤组合物,其特征在于,所述护肤组合物,以重量份计还包括:8-15份D组分,D组分为化妆品辅料或化妆品基质。2. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the skin care composition further comprises, in parts by weight: 8-15 parts of D components, D components For cosmetic accessories or cosmetic base. 3.如权利要求2所述的兼具保湿、美白、抗衰老的护肤组合物,其特征在于,所述化妆品辅料以重量份计包括:27.3-65.7份纯化水、15-28份甘油、0.1-0.3份月桂醇硫酸酯钠。3. The skin care composition having moisturizing, whitening and anti-aging properties as claimed in claim 2, wherein the cosmetic adjuvant comprises in parts by weight: 27.3-65.7 parts of purified water, 15-28 parts of glycerin, 0.1 -0.3 parts sodium lauryl sulfate. 4.如权利要求2所述的兼具保湿、美白、抗衰老的护肤组合物,其特征在于,所述化妆品基质为甘油硬脂酸酯、鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇、棕榈酸异丙酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷、香精、生育酚、羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯中的任意一种或两种以上的组合物。4. The skin care composition of claim 2, wherein the cosmetic base is glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isopropyl palmitate , polydimethylsiloxane, essence, tocopherol, methylparaben, propylparaben, any one or two or more compositions. 5.如权利要求1所述的兼具保湿、美白、抗衰老的护肤组合物,其特征在于,所述B组分以重量份计包括:0.05-1.2份棕榈酰三肽-1、0.05-0.2份乙酰基六肽-8。5. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the component B comprises in parts by weight: 0.05-1.2 parts of palmitoyl tripeptide-1, 0.05- 0.2 parts Acetyl Hexapeptide-8. 6.如权利要求1所述的兼具保湿、美白、抗衰老的护肤组合物应用于面膜、眼霜、面霜、精华素、洁面乳、爽肤水、乳液、纯露、隔离霜的生产。6. The skin care composition having moisturizing, whitening and anti-aging properties as claimed in claim 1 is applied to the production of facial mask, eye cream, face cream, essence, facial cleanser, toner, lotion, pure dew, and barrier cream.
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