CN112458606B - High-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar and manufacturing method and application thereof - Google Patents
High-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar and manufacturing method and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明提供了一种高弹高保形耐洗横机领及其制作方法与应用,所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领为密针距的双层组织结构,所述横机领的正面及反面由长绒棉纱线与高弹力涤纶丝交织而成,正面及反面以弹力氨纶丝衔接。所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领具有多次洗涤后不卷边、不变形的特点,所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领具有良好的弹性回复、折皱回复,极好的洗后保形,能够达到多次(10次)洗涤后不卷边的性能。本发明所提供的所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领主要用作高档POLO款T恤的领子,可以解决长期困扰客户及消费者的POLO款T恤洗涤后的领子存在波浪形,荷叶边,卷边等变形问题。
The invention provides a high-elasticity and high-shape-retaining washable flat knitting collar and a manufacturing method and application thereof. The front and back sides are interwoven with long-staple cotton yarns and high-strength polyester yarns, and the front and back sides are connected by elastic spandex yarns. The high-elasticity and high-shape-retaining washable horizontal knitting collar has the characteristics of no curling and no deformation after multiple washings. Conformal, able to achieve the performance of no curling after multiple (10) washings. The high-elasticity, high-shape-retaining, and washing-resistant flat knitting collar provided by the present invention is mainly used as the collar of high-end POLO T-shirts, which can solve the problem that the collars of POLO T-shirts, which have troubled customers and consumers for a long time, have wavy, lotus leaves after washing. Edge, curling and other deformation problems.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及一种高弹高保形耐洗横机领及其制作方法与应用,属于纺织辅料技术领域。The invention relates to a high-elasticity, high-shape-retaining and washing-resistant flat knitting collar, a manufacturing method and application thereof, and belongs to the technical field of textile accessories.
背景技术Background technique
领子是POLO针织衫最核心的部位,其耐洗保形性直接影响成衣质量。The collar is the core part of POLO knitwear, and its washability and shape retention directly affect the quality of the garment.
一直以来,很多消费者反馈POLO衫领子洗水后会出现波浪形,荷叶边,卷边等变形问题,如何能够尽量做到“不卷边领”是行业亟待解决的难题,很多技术人员做过尝试,但实际大多数都没有达到理想水平。高弹高保形耐洗横机领的开发,旨在提供一种高质量不卷边横机领,这种领具有良好的弹性回复,折皱回复,极好的洗后保形,能够达到多次洗水后不卷边的性能。同时,我们对不卷边领作了定义,制定了测试方法及标准,并做了大量对比试验以验证所述标准对于领子的性能有直接关联。高弹高保形耐洗横机领的成功开发,可以解决长期困扰客户及消费者的领子质量问题。For a long time, many consumers have reported that the collar of POLO shirts will be wavy, ruffled, curled and other deformation problems after washing. Tried, but in practice most of them are not up to the ideal level. The development of high-elasticity and high-conformity-resistant horizontal knitting collars aims to provide a high-quality non-rolled flat knitting collar, which has good elastic recovery, wrinkle recovery, excellent shape retention after washing, and can achieve multiple times. No curling performance after washing. At the same time, we have defined non-roll collars, formulated test methods and standards, and made a lot of comparative tests to verify that the standards are directly related to the performance of collars. The successful development of the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washable flat knitting collar can solve the collar quality problem that has plagued customers and consumers for a long time.
发明内容SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
为了解决上述的缺点和不足,本发明的目的在于提供一种高弹高保形耐洗横机领及其制作方法与应用。本发明所提供的所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领为横机密针距双层(双面)组织结构,其是采用特别的织法及纱线组合编织后,再经功能性后整理而得,所述纱线组合为高弹性的涤纶纱(高弹力涤纶丝)与长绒棉(长绒棉纱线)以及氨纶(弹力氨纶丝)的组合,可以保证制得的领子具有高弹的特点;所述功能性后整理主要包括生物酶处理、液氨整理等,可使制得的领子具有高弹、耐洗、不变形的特征。In order to solve the above-mentioned shortcomings and deficiencies, the purpose of the present invention is to provide a high-elasticity, high-conformity and wash-resistant flat knitting collar and a manufacturing method and application thereof. The high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washing-resistant flat knitting collar provided by the present invention is a double-layer (double-sided) weave structure with a flat stitch length, which is woven by a special weaving method and yarn combination, and then functionally finished Therefore, the yarn combination is a combination of high-elastic polyester yarn (high-elasticity polyester yarn), long-staple cotton (long-staple cotton yarn) and spandex (elastic spandex yarn), which can ensure that the obtained collar has high-elasticity Features: The functional finishing mainly includes biological enzyme treatment, liquid ammonia finishing, etc., which can make the prepared collar have the characteristics of high elasticity, washability and non-deformation.
为了实现以上目的,一方面,本发明提供了一种高弹高保形耐洗横机领,其中,所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领为密针距的双层组织结构,所述横机领的正面及反面由长绒棉纱线与高弹力涤纶丝交织而成,正面及反面以弹力氨纶丝衔接。In order to achieve the above objects, on the one hand, the present invention provides a high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washing-resistant flat knitting collar, wherein the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washing-resistant flat knitting collar is a double-layer structure with a dense stitch spacing, and the horizontal The front and back of the machine collar are interwoven with long-staple cotton yarn and high-strength polyester yarn, and the front and back are joined by elastic spandex yarn.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领中,优选地,所述长绒棉纱线包括30-50英支100%长绒棉环锭纺棉纱线或紧密纺棉纱线以及合股纱60S/2-100S/2的100%长绒棉环锭纺棉纱线或紧密纺棉纱线。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washable flat knitted collar, preferably, the long-staple cotton yarns include 30-50 inch 100% long-staple cotton ring-spun cotton yarns or compact-spun cotton yarns. Cotton yarns and 100% long-staple cotton ring-spun cotton yarns or compact-spun cotton yarns of plied yarns 60S/2-100S/2.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领中,优选地,所述高弹力涤纶丝包括75D/36F高弹,无网,DTY涤纶丝。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washing-resistant flat knitting collar, preferably, the high-elasticity polyester yarn includes 75D/36F high-elasticity, non-mesh, DTY polyester yarn.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领中,优选地,所述高弹力涤纶丝的断裂伸长率为21±5%。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washing-resistant flat knitted collar, preferably, the elongation at break of the high-elasticity polyester yarn is 21±5%.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领中,优选地,所述弹力氨纶丝的支数为70-140旦尼尔。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washable flat knitted collar, preferably, the elastic spandex yarn has a count of 70-140 denier.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领中,优选地,所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领是采用针距为16G及以上的针织横机生产得到的。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the high-elasticity, high-shape-retention, and washable flat knitting collar, preferably, the high-elasticity, high-shape, and washable flat knitting collar is produced by a flat knitting machine with a gauge of 16G and above. of.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领中,优选地,制作所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领所用的针织横机的线圈长度为25C(120-125mm)。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the high-elasticity and high-conformity-durable flat-knitted collar, preferably, the coil length of the flat knitting knitting machine used for making the high-elasticity and high-conformity-durable flat-knitted collar is 25C (120- 125mm).
其中,本发明所用的针织横机为本领域使用的常规设备。Among them, the flat knitting machine used in the present invention is a conventional device used in the field.
根据本发明具体实施方案,所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领是采用包括如下步骤的制作方法得到的:According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washing-resistant flat knitting collar is obtained by a manufacturing method comprising the following steps:
(1)将经过染色的高弹力涤纶丝和长绒棉纱线作为正反面原料纱,弹力氨纶丝作为布面与布底的中间衔接原料纱进行双面编织,得到双面横机领;(1) using the dyed high-elasticity polyester yarn and long-staple cotton yarn as the front and back raw material yarn, and the elastic spandex yarn as the intermediate connection raw material yarn between the cloth surface and the cloth bottom to carry out double-sided weaving to obtain a double-sided flat knitting collar;
(2)再对所述双面横机领进行功能性后整理,得到所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领。(2) functionally finishing the double-sided flat knitting collar to obtain the high-elasticity, high-shape-retaining, and washing-resistant flat knitting collar.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领中,所述双面横机领的编织方法包括以下步骤:According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washable flat knitted collar, the weaving method of the double-sided flat knitted collar includes the following steps:
1)将若干条高弹力涤纶丝及若干条长绒棉纱线作为正面纱线,在横机上针床进行单面编织,形成正面;1) Use a number of high-elastic polyester yarns and a number of long-staple cotton yarns as front yarns, and perform single-sided knitting on a needle bed on a flat knitting machine to form a front surface;
2)将若干条高弹力涤纶丝及若干条长绒棉纱线作为反面纱线,在横机下针床进行单面编织,形成反面;2) Using a number of high-elasticity polyester yarns and a number of long-staple cotton yarns as reverse yarns, single-sided knitting is performed on the needle bed under the flat knitting machine to form the reverse side;
3)以一条弹力氨纶丝作为衔接线,在横机上针床、下针床进行双面编织,衔接正反面;3) Using a stretch spandex yarn as a connecting line, double-sided knitting is performed on the upper needle bed and the lower needle bed of the flat knitting machine, and the front and back sides are connected;
按照步骤1)-步骤3)进行重复编织,得到所述双面横机领。Repeated knitting is performed according to steps 1) to 3) to obtain the double-sided flat knitting collar.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领中,步骤1)中所述高弹力涤纶丝的条数、所述长绒棉纱线的条数,步骤2)中所述高弹力涤纶丝的条数、所述长绒棉纱线的条数相同。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the high-elasticity, high-shape-retaining and washing-resistant flat knitting collar, the number of high-elasticity polyester yarns and the number of long-staple cotton yarns in step 1) are in step 2). The number of strips of the high-elasticity polyester yarn and the number of strips of the long-staple cotton yarn are the same.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领中,优选地,以ASTMD2594中的方法对所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领进行弹性回复测试,回复时间为60秒及1小时,其弹性回复率分别为<6%及<4%;According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washable flat knitting collar, preferably, the elastic recovery test is performed on the high-elasticity, high-conformity and washable flat knitting collar by the method in ASTMD2594, and the recovery time is For 60 seconds and 1 hour, the elastic recovery rates are <6% and <4%, respectively;
以AATCC 66-2006中的方法测得所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领的折皱回复角,其折皱回复角>135°。The wrinkle recovery angle of the high-elasticity and high-conformity washable flat knitted collar was measured by the method in AATCC 66-2006, and the wrinkle recovery angle was >135°.
另一方面,本发明还提供了所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领的制作方法,其中,所述制作方法包括:On the other hand, the present invention also provides a method for manufacturing the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washing-resistant flat knitting collar, wherein the manufacturing method includes:
(1)将经过染色的高弹力涤纶丝和长绒棉纱线作为正反面原料纱,弹力氨纶丝作为布面与布底的中间衔接原料纱进行双面编织,得到双面横机领;(1) using the dyed high-elasticity polyester yarn and long-staple cotton yarn as the front and back raw material yarn, and the elastic spandex yarn as the intermediate connection raw material yarn between the cloth surface and the cloth bottom to carry out double-sided weaving to obtain a double-sided flat knitting collar;
(2)再对所述双面横机领进行功能性后整理,得到所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领。(2) functionally finishing the double-sided flat knitting collar to obtain the high-elasticity, high-shape-retaining, and washing-resistant flat knitting collar.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领的制作方法中,优选地,所述双面横机领的编织方法包括以下步骤:According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the manufacturing method of the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washable flat knitted collar, preferably, the weaving method of the double-sided flat knitted collar includes the following steps:
1)将若干条高弹力涤纶丝及若干条长绒棉纱线作为正面纱线,在横机上针床进行单面编织,形成正面;1) Use a number of high-elastic polyester yarns and a number of long-staple cotton yarns as front yarns, and perform single-sided knitting on a needle bed on a flat knitting machine to form a front surface;
2)将若干条高弹力涤纶丝及若干条长绒棉纱线作为反面纱线,在横机下针床进行单面编织,形成反面;2) Using a number of high-elasticity polyester yarns and a number of long-staple cotton yarns as reverse yarns, single-sided knitting is performed on the needle bed under the flat knitting machine to form the reverse side;
3)以一条弹力氨纶丝作为衔接线,在横机上针床、下针床进行双面编织,衔接正反面;3) Using a stretch spandex yarn as a connecting line, double-sided knitting is performed on the upper needle bed and the lower needle bed of the flat knitting machine, and the front and back sides are connected;
按照步骤1)-步骤3)进行重复编织,得到所述双面横机领。Repeated knitting is performed according to steps 1) to 3) to obtain the double-sided flat knitting collar.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领的制作方法中,优选地,步骤1)中所述高弹力涤纶丝的条数、所述长绒棉纱线的条数,步骤2)中所述高弹力涤纶丝的条数、所述长绒棉纱线的条数相同。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the manufacturing method of the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washable flat knitted collar, preferably, in step 1), the number of strips of high-elasticity polyester yarns, the strips of long-staple cotton yarns The number of strands of the high-elasticity polyester yarn described in step 2) is the same as the number of strands of the long-staple cotton yarn.
其中,步骤1)及步骤2)中所用高弹力涤纶丝、长绒棉纱线的条数直接影响所得高弹高保形耐洗横机领的厚度;本发明使步骤1)中所述高弹力涤纶丝的条数、所述长绒棉纱线的条数,步骤2)中所述高弹力涤纶丝的条数、所述长绒棉纱线的条数相同,进而可以使所得到的高弹高保形耐洗横机领厚度适中并具有良好的弹性。Wherein, the number of high-elasticity polyester yarns and long-staple cotton yarns used in steps 1) and 2) directly affects the thickness of the obtained high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washable flat knitting collars; the present invention makes the high-elasticity polyester yarns described in step 1). The number of filaments, the number of long-staple cotton yarns, the number of high-elastic polyester filaments described in step 2), and the number of long-staple cotton yarns are the same, so that the obtained high elasticity and high shape retention can be obtained. The washable flat knitted collar is moderately thick and has good elasticity.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领的制作方法中,编织前需要对高弹力涤纶丝和长绒棉纱线进行染色,所述染色的颜色需要与最终成品的颜色一致。According to the specific embodiment of the present invention, in the manufacturing method of the high-elasticity, high-shape-retaining and washing-resistant flat knitted collar, high-elasticity polyester yarn and long-staple cotton yarn need to be dyed before weaving, and the dyeing color needs to be consistent with the final product. the same color.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领的制作方法中,优选地,所述功能性后整理包括生物酶处理、第一次压领、第一次烘干、液氨整理、过软油处理、第二次压领、第二次烘干及拆领。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the manufacturing method of a high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washable flat knitted collar, preferably, the functional finishing includes biological enzyme treatment, first crimping, and first drying , Liquid ammonia finishing, over-soft oil treatment, second pressing, second drying and dismantling.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领的制作方法中,优选地,所述液氨整理工艺包括:所述液氨整理的车速为20-30m/min;液氨整理的处理温度:进布毛毯处温度为115-125℃,上下反应区温度为85-95℃,出布毛毯处温度为95-105℃;液氨整理的处理张力:进布毛毯为1.5-2.5KG,上下反应区为4-6KG,出布毛毯为4-6KG。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the manufacturing method of the high-elasticity, high-conformity and washing-resistant flat knitting collar, preferably, the liquid ammonia finishing process includes: the vehicle speed of the liquid ammonia finishing is 20-30 m/min; The processing temperature of liquid ammonia finishing: the temperature of the incoming felt is 115-125℃, the temperature of the upper and lower reaction zones is 85-95℃, and the temperature of the outgoing felt is 95-105℃; the processing tension of the liquid ammonia finishing: the incoming felt is 1.5-2.5KG, the upper and lower reaction zones are 4-6KG, and the output blanket is 4-6KG.
在本发明一具体实施方式中,所述液氨整理工艺为:所述液氨整理的车速为25m/min;液氨整理的处理温度:进布毛毯处温度为120℃,上下反应区温度为90℃,出布毛毯处温度为100℃;液氨整理的处理张力:进布毛毯为2KG,上下反应区为5KG,出布毛毯为5KG。In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the liquid ammonia finishing process is as follows: the vehicle speed of the liquid ammonia finishing is 25 m/min; the processing temperature of the liquid ammonia finishing: the temperature at the cloth feeding felt is 120°C, and the temperature in the upper and lower reaction zones is 90°C, the temperature at the outlet blanket is 100°C; the processing tension of liquid ammonia finishing: the inlet blanket is 2KG, the upper and lower reaction zones are 5KG, and the outlet blanket is 5KG.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领的制作方法中,优选地,所述生物酶处理包括:按1:18-40的浴比将双面横机领置于酶洗液中在40-60℃条件下处理40-80min;其中,所述酶洗液包含2-6g/L生物酶、0.5-1.0g/L醋酸钠和0.5-1.0g/L醋酸,溶剂为水;According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the manufacturing method of the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washable flat knitting collar, preferably, the biological enzyme treatment comprises: converting the double-sided flat knitting collar with a liquor ratio of 1:18-40. Placed in an enzyme lotion for 40-80min at 40-60°C; wherein the enzyme lotion contains 2-6g/L biological enzyme, 0.5-1.0g/L sodium acetate and 0.5-1.0g/L acetic acid , the solvent is water;
更优选地,所述生物酶为纤维酶。More preferably, the biological enzyme is a cellulase.
其中,酶洗液中各组分的浓度均是以酶洗液的总体积为基准计算得到的。Wherein, the concentration of each component in the enzyme washing solution is calculated based on the total volume of the enzyme washing solution.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领的制作方法中,优选地,所述过软油处理为采用洗水液对经液氨整理后的双面横机领进行处理,以洗水液的总体积计,其中含有4-6g/L的柔软剂。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the manufacturing method of the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washing-resistant flat knitting collar, preferably, the supersoft oil treatment is to use washing water to treat the double-sided flat knitting machine after finishing with liquid ammonia. The collar is treated, based on the total volume of the washing water, which contains 4-6g/L of softener.
其中,所用洗水液的溶剂为水,洗水液中各组分的浓度均是以洗水液的总体积为基准计算得到的;并且本发明所用柔软剂可为本领域使用的常规柔软剂,其可以通过商购获得。Wherein, the solvent of the used washing liquid is water, and the concentration of each component in the washing liquid is calculated based on the total volume of the washing liquid; and the softening agent used in the present invention can be the conventional softening agent used in the field , which are commercially available.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领的制作方法中,所述功能性后整理具体包括生物酶处理、第一次压领、第一次烘干、液氨整理、过软油处理、第二次压领、第二次烘干及拆领;According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the manufacturing method of the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washable flat knitted collar, the functional finishing specifically includes biological enzyme treatment, first crimping, first drying, liquid Ammonia finishing, over-soft oil treatment, second crimping, second drying and dismantling;
其中,所述第一次压领、第一次烘干、第二次压领、第二次烘干及拆领等操作均为本领域常规操作,本领域技术人员可以根据现场作业需要合理设置该些操作及该些操作中涉及的具体步骤、所用具体工艺参数及所用具体物质。Wherein, the operations such as the first crimping, the first drying, the second crimping, the second drying and the dismantling are all routine operations in the art, and those skilled in the art can reasonably set them according to the needs of on-site operations These operations and the specific steps involved in these operations, the specific process parameters used, and the specific substances used.
根据本发明具体实施方案,在所述的高弹高保形耐洗横机领的制作方法中,于生物酶处理前,还需要对所述双面横机领进行检验,以检验领面是否存在质量问题,如断纱、烂边、牙边、塌角变形等问题。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in the manufacturing method of the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washable flat knitting collar, before the biological enzyme treatment, the double-sided flat knitting collar also needs to be inspected to check whether the collar exists. Quality problems, such as broken yarn, rotten edge, tooth edge, slump deformation and other problems.
又一方面,本发明还提供了所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领作为POLO衫领子的应用。In another aspect, the present invention also provides the application of the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washable flat knitted collar as a POLO shirt collar.
本发明还对不卷边领进行了详细定义,具体说明如下所示。The present invention also defines the non-rolled collar in detail, and the specific description is as follows.
目前,本领域中,不卷边领仍为一个模糊的概念,并且暂时对不卷边领还没有明确的定义,即何谓不卷边,如何判断该领子是否卷边或不卷边,如何对不卷边领进行测试以及判断不卷边领中使用何种标准均悬而未决。At present, in this field, the non-rolled collar is still a vague concept, and there is no clear definition of the non-rolled collar for the time being, that is, what is non-rolled collar, how to judge whether the collar is curled or not, how to It's up in the air as to which standard to use for a no-roll collar and to test it.
在此,本发明对不卷边领进行定义,并确定了具体的测试方法以及判断不卷边领的相关标准。Here, the present invention defines a non-hem collar, and determines a specific test method and relevant standards for judging a non-hem collar.
不卷边领的定义:凡是通过测试及洗水后可以达到如下表1中所确定的标准的领子,均可以称为不卷边领。Definition of non-rolled collar: Any collar that can meet the standard determined in the following table 1 after passing the test and washing can be called non-rolled collar.
表1Table 1
以下对表1中所提供的测试方法及判断标准予以详细说明:The test methods and judgment standards provided in Table 1 are described in detail below:
本发明对待测领子进行以下所述的三个测试/洗水项目,经三个测试/洗水项目处理后的领子如可以达到如上表1中所述的判断标准,则该领子即为不卷边领。The present invention carries out the following three tests/washing items for the collar to be tested. If the collar after being processed by the three testing/washing items can reach the judgment criteria as described in Table 1 above, the collar is not rolled side collar.
弹性回复(原样/洗涤5次)Elasticity recovery (as is/washed 5 times)
目标待测领子能够达到不卷边效果的前提是领子除了具有极其优良的拉伸弹性外,更重要的是其能够有足够好的弹性回复,这样在多次使用过程中,其经历拉伸,洗涤后仍能够尽量回复到原始状态。因此,在弹性回复(原样/洗涤5次)项目中,本发明主要考核待测领子纬向的弹性回复性能,测试过程采用ASTM D2594国际标准方法,测试过程包括:将待测领子纬向拉伸30%,放置2小时,去除外边后考核回复时间分别为60秒及1小时后的回复性能。根据测试结果,本发明将弹性回复的标准定为:<6%(60s)及<4%(1h)。The premise that the collar to be tested can achieve the effect of non-hemming is that in addition to the excellent stretch elasticity of the collar, the more important thing is that it can have sufficient elastic recovery, so that in the process of repeated use, it undergoes stretching, After washing, it can still return to its original state as much as possible. Therefore, in the item of elastic recovery (as it is/washed 5 times), the present invention mainly examines the elastic recovery performance of the collar to be tested in the weft direction. The test process adopts the ASTM D2594 international standard method. The test process includes: stretching the collar to be tested in the weft direction. 30%, placed for 2 hours, and the recovery time after removing the outer surface was 60 seconds and 1 hour, respectively. According to the test results, the present invention sets the elastic recovery standards as: <6% (60s) and <4% (1h).
折皱回复角(原样/洗涤5次)Wrinkle recovery corner (as is/washed 5 times)
在一定程度上,领子会变形是因为其受到外力堆压导致其无法完全回复到原始状态,从而产生变形。To a certain extent, the collar deforms because it cannot fully return to its original state due to external pressure, resulting in deformation.
本发明以褶皱回复角来衡量领子堆压折皱后的回复性能,褶皱回复角采用AATCC66-2006中的方法测得。The invention uses the wrinkle recovery angle to measure the recovery performance of the collar after pile pressing and wrinkling, and the wrinkle recovery angle is measured by the method in AATCC66-2006.
通过初步的对比测试,申请人发现褶皱回复角较大的领子,其保形性能也相应较好,当所述褶皱回复角>135°时,领子的保形性能较好,因此本发明将褶皱回复角的标准定为:>135°。Through preliminary comparative tests, the applicant found that a collar with a larger wrinkle recovery angle has a correspondingly better shape-retaining performance. When the wrinkle recovery angle is >135°, the collar has better shape-retaining performance. The standard of recovery angle is set as: >135°.
外观车缝样(原样/洗涤10次)Appearance sewing sample (as is/washed 10 times)
在验证领子是否耐洗不卷边的方法中,最主要且直观的方法还是通过观察实物来判断其是否耐洗不卷边。对此,需要使用指定面料和领子(本发明所提供的高弹高保形耐洗横机领),制作Mock-Up(成衣模型),然后对Mock-Up进行要求次数(如10次)的家庭洗涤,再将经要求次数家庭洗涤后的Mock-Up与标准样进行对比,对比后,如发现Mock-Up能够跟回标准样,则可将该Mock-Up定义为不卷边领。In the method of verifying whether the collar is washable and not curled, the most important and intuitive method is to judge whether it is washable and not curled by observing the real object. In this regard, it is necessary to use designated fabrics and collars (high-elasticity, high-conformity and washable flat knitting collars provided by the present invention), make Mock-Up (ready-to-wear model), and then perform the required times (such as 10 times) of Mock-Up. Wash, and then compare the Mock-Up after the required number of home washing with the standard sample. After comparison, if it is found that the Mock-Up can follow the standard sample, the Mock-Up can be defined as a non-rolled collar.
其中,所述标准样为经10次家庭洗涤后,仍具有良好平整度,且不变形,不卷边的样品,本领域技术人员可以根据现场实际作业要求合理选择所述标准样;例如,在本发明具体实施方式中,若所用成衣模型经10次家庭洗涤后,仍具有良好平整度,且不变形,不卷边,则即可以将该经10次家庭洗涤后的成衣模型作为标准样品。Wherein, the standard sample is a sample that has good flatness, no deformation, and no curling after 10 household washings. Those skilled in the art can reasonably select the standard sample according to the actual operation requirements on site; In the specific embodiment of the present invention, if the used garment model after 10 home washings still has good flatness, and is not deformed or curled, the garment model after 10 home washings can be used as a standard sample.
本发明所提供的所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领是一种高弹横机领,其具有多次洗涤后不卷边、不变形的特点,所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领具有良好的弹性回复、折皱回复,极好的洗后保形,能够达到多次(10次)洗涤后不卷边的性能。本发明所提供的所述高弹高保形耐洗横机领主要用作高档POLO款T恤的领子,可以解决长期困扰客户及消费者的POLO款T恤洗涤后的领子存在波浪形,荷叶边,卷边等变形问题。The high-elasticity and high-shape-retaining washable flat knitting collar provided by the present invention is a high-elasticity flat-knitting collar, which has the characteristics of no curling and no deformation after multiple washings. The collar has good elastic recovery, wrinkle recovery, excellent shape retention after washing, and can achieve the performance of no curling after multiple (10) washings. The high-elasticity, high-shape-retaining, and washing-resistant flat knitting collar provided by the present invention is mainly used as the collar of high-end POLO T-shirts, which can solve the problem that the collars of POLO T-shirts that have troubled customers and consumers for a long time have wavy, lotus leaves after washing. Edge, curling and other deformation problems.
附图说明Description of drawings
图1为本发明实施例1中所提供的高弹高保形耐洗横机领的织法示意图。FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the weaving method of the high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washable flat knitted collar provided in Embodiment 1 of the present invention.
图2为本发明实施例1中制得的Mock-Up(成衣模型)原样图。FIG. 2 is the original picture of the Mock-Up (clothing model) prepared in Example 1 of the present invention.
图3为本发明实施例1中制得的Mock-Up(成衣模型)经10次家庭洗涤后的样品图。FIG. 3 is a sample diagram of the Mock-Up (clothing model) prepared in Example 1 of the present invention after 10 home washings.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
为了对本发明的技术特征、目的和有益效果有更加清楚的理解,现结合以下具体实施例对本发明的技术方案进行以下详细说明,但不能理解为对本发明的可实施范围的限定。In order to have a clearer understanding of the technical features, purposes and beneficial effects of the present invention, the technical solutions of the present invention are now described in detail below with reference to the following specific examples, but should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
实施例1Example 1
本实施例提供了一种高弹高保形耐洗横机领的制作方法,其中,所述制作方法包括以下步骤:The present embodiment provides a method for manufacturing a high-elasticity, high-conformity, and washing-resistant flat knitting collar, wherein the manufacturing method includes the following steps:
本实施例中采用的纱线原料纱如下表2所示,从表2中可以看出,所用原料纱包括100%长绒棉纱线,氨纶(弹力氨纶丝)以及涤纶(高弹力涤纶丝)。The raw yarns used in this embodiment are shown in Table 2 below. As can be seen from Table 2, the raw yarns used include 100% long-staple cotton yarns, spandex (elastic spandex yarn) and polyester (high-elasticity polyester yarn).
表2Table 2
所述高弹力涤纶丝为75D/36F高弹,无网,DTY涤纶丝;所述涤纶丝的断裂伸长率的范围是21±5%。以上100%长绒棉纱线及高弹力涤纶丝在织布前要先安排染纱,所染纱的颜色与最终成品面料的颜色一致。The high-elasticity polyester yarn is 75D/36F high-elasticity, no mesh, DTY polyester yarn; the range of the elongation at break of the polyester yarn is 21±5%. The above 100% long-staple cotton yarn and high-stretch polyester yarn should be dyed before weaving, and the color of the dyed yarn is consistent with the color of the final finished fabric.
采用机型:岛精H313三系统横机,针距为16G,线圈长度为25C(120-125mm)。Model used: Shima Seiki H313 three-system flat knitting machine, the stitch length is 16G, and the coil length is 25C (120-125mm).
将60S/2X2(X2代表两条长绒棉纱线)紧密纺棉纱线与75D/36F X2(X2代表两条高弹力涤纶丝)旦尼尔的涤纶丝,作为布面与布底的原料纱线,纱线通过不同的纱咀,一起喂入参与编织。Use 60S/2X2 (X2 represents two long-staple cotton yarns) compact spun cotton yarn and 75D/36F X2 (X2 represents two high-strength polyester yarns) denier polyester yarns as the raw material yarns for the fabric surface and the fabric bottom , the yarns are fed together through different yarn nozzles to participate in weaving.
按照如图1所示的织法进行编织,即:Weaving according to the weaving method shown in Figure 1, namely:
1)将2条高弹力涤纶丝和2条100%长绒棉纱线作为正面纱线,在横机上针床进行单面编织,形成正面;1) Use 2 high-elastic polyester yarns and 2 100% long-staple cotton yarns as front yarns, and perform single-sided knitting on the needle bed on the flat knitting machine to form the front;
2)将2条高弹力涤纶丝和2条100%长绒棉纱线作为反面纱线,在横机下针床进行单面编织,形成反面;2) Two high-elastic polyester yarns and two 100% long-staple cotton yarns are used as reverse yarns, and single-sided knitting is performed on the needle bed under the flat knitting machine to form the reverse surface;
3)以一条弹力氨纶丝作为衔接线,在横机上、下针床进行双面编织,衔接正反面;3) Using a stretch spandex yarn as a connecting thread, double-sided knitting is performed on the upper and lower needle beds of the flat knitting machine, and the front and back sides are connected;
按照步骤1)-步骤3)中的上述织法重复编织,得到双面横机领。Repeat weaving according to the above-mentioned weaving method in step 1)-step 3) to obtain a double-sided flat knitting collar.
同时,在所用横机织领子时,需要检查开机布高弹力涤纶丝是否露底、要确保其不会产生露底问题,同时检查弹力氨纶丝产生的各种疵点,以确保任何品质问题得到及时处理。At the same time, when the flat knitting collar is used, it is necessary to check whether the high-stretch polyester yarn of the boot cloth is exposed to the bottom, to ensure that it will not cause the problem of exposed bottom, and at the same time, check the various defects caused by the elastic spandex yarn to ensure that any quality problems are dealt with in time.
对所述双面横机领进行检验,再备布,然后将上述双面横机领进行洗水(生物酶处理,且处理过程中不可加软油);其中,生物酶处理过程中所用酶洗液的组成及各组分溶度如表3所示,从表3中可以看出,所述酶洗液包含2-6g/L生物酶、0.5g/L醋酸钠和0.5g/L醋酸,溶剂为水;所用生物酶为诺维信(中国)生物技术有限公司生产的CELLUSOFTTM酶类,即CELLUSOFT CR50*CX45’PROG 0120(B);The double-sided flat knitting collar is inspected, and then cloth is prepared, and then the above-mentioned double-sided flat knitting collar is washed with water (biological enzyme treatment, and soft oil cannot be added during the treatment process); wherein, the enzyme used in the biological enzyme treatment process is used. The composition of the lotion and the solubility of each component are shown in Table 3. As can be seen from Table 3, the enzyme lotion contains 2-6g/L biological enzyme, 0.5g/L sodium acetate and 0.5g/L acetic acid , the solvent is water; the biological enzymes used are CELLUSOFT TM enzymes produced by Novozymes (China) Biotechnology Co., Ltd., namely CELLUSOFT CR50*CX45'PROG 0120(B);
以酶洗液中所用醋酸将体系pH值调到5.5,然后按1:25的浴比将上述双面横机领放入该酶洗液中,在50℃条件下处理60min,完成生物酶处理。Adjust the pH of the system to 5.5 with the acetic acid used in the enzyme lotion, then put the above-mentioned double-sided flat knitting collar into the enzyme lotion at a liquor ratio of 1:25, and treat it at 50°C for 60 minutes to complete the biological enzyme treatment. .
表3table 3
对生物酶处理处理(酶洗)后的双面横机领进行轧水及烘干处理,其中,轧水及烘干处理为本领域常规工艺,本实施例中可于130-150℃条件下进行烘干。The double-sided flat knitting collar after the biological enzyme treatment (enzyme washing) is subjected to water rolling and drying treatment, wherein the water rolling and drying treatment are conventional processes in the art, and in this embodiment, the temperature can be 130-150 ° C under the condition of Dry.
再对烘干后的双面横机领进行液氨整理,液氨整理的原理及技术效果是:氨气在-33℃以下呈现液体状态,液态氨(NH3)的粘度和表面张力比水低,液氨能容易而且很快渗入到棉纤维中,使棉纤维从芯部开始膨胀,截面由扁平膨胀成圆形,腔径变小,表面光滑,由于纤维结晶结构的变化,内应力消除,不再扭曲,提升了拉伸强度和撕破强度,即使反复洗涤仍能保持良好手感(柔软度)。本发明所述的双面横机领经液氨整理后,可以极大提高成品的手感及外观。Then, the double-sided flat knitting collar after drying is finished with liquid ammonia. The principle and technical effect of liquid ammonia finishing are: ammonia gas is in a liquid state below -33 °C, and the viscosity and surface tension of liquid ammonia (NH 3 ) are higher than that of water. Low, liquid ammonia can easily and quickly penetrate into the cotton fiber, so that the cotton fiber starts to expand from the core, the cross-section expands from flat to circular, the cavity diameter becomes smaller, and the surface is smooth. Due to the change of the fiber crystal structure, the internal stress is eliminated. , no longer twist, improved tensile strength and tear strength, even after repeated washing can still maintain a good hand (softness). After the double-sided flat knitting collar of the present invention is finished with liquid ammonia, the hand feeling and appearance of the finished product can be greatly improved.
本实施例中,所述液氨整理工艺为:所述液氨整理的车速为25m/min;液氨整理的处理温度:进布毛毯处温度为120℃,上下反应区温度为90℃,出布毛毯处温度为100℃;液氨整理的处理张力:进布毛毯为2KG,上下反应区为5KG,出布毛毯为5KG。In this embodiment, the liquid ammonia finishing process is as follows: the vehicle speed of the liquid ammonia finishing is 25m/min; the processing temperature of the liquid ammonia finishing: the temperature at the point where the cloth enters the blanket is 120°C, the temperature in the upper and lower reaction zones is 90°C, and the temperature at the outlet is 90°C. The temperature at the cloth blanket is 100°C; the processing tension of the liquid ammonia finishing is: 2KG for the incoming cloth, 5KG for the upper and lower reaction zones, and 5KG for the outgoing felt.
其中,所述液氨整理可以在意大利LAFER液氨丝光机上进行,具体操作包括:将烘干后的双面横机领使用导布通过液氨处理箱,导布需要与生产领幅宽一致,缝头平直齐牢;并且保证中途不停机,否则会导致颜色异常,如果出现停机需要在烘干后的双面横机领标识清楚。Wherein, the liquid ammonia finishing can be carried out on the Italian LAFER liquid ammonia mercerizing machine, and the specific operations include: passing the dried double-sided flat knitting machine leader through the liquid ammonia treatment box with a guide cloth, and the guide cloth needs to be consistent with the width of the production leader, The seam head is straight and firm; and ensure that the machine does not stop in the middle, otherwise the color will be abnormal. If there is a stoppage, the double-sided flat knitting machine collar after drying needs to be clearly marked.
液氨整理后的双面横机领需要过洗水设备进行清洗,所用洗水液的组成及各组分溶度如表4所示,从表4中可以看出,该洗水液采用潜江市仙桥化学制品有限公司生产的FKS作为渗透剂,广东德美精细化工股份有限公司生产的DM-133作为低温除油剂,亨斯迈纺织染化(中国)有限公司生产的CIBA FLUID C作为折皱防止剂,该洗水液中还加入了6g/L明记香港清洁用品有限公司生产的JSS软油(Magnasoft JSS)作为柔软剂。The double-sided flat knitting collar after the liquid ammonia finishing needs to be cleaned by washing water equipment. The composition of the washing water used and the solubility of each component are shown in Table 4. It can be seen from Table 4 that the washing FKS produced by Jiangxi Xianqiao Chemical Co., Ltd. is used as penetrant, DM-133 produced by Guangdong Demei Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. is used as low-temperature degreaser, and CIBA FLUID C produced by Huntsman Textile Dyeing (China) Co., Ltd. As a wrinkle-preventing agent, 6g/L of JSS soft oil (Magnasoft JSS) produced by Ming Kee Hong Kong Cleaning Products Co., Ltd. was added to the washing liquid as a softening agent.
所述洗水处理(过软油处理)具体包括:按1:18-40的浴比将经液氨整理后的双面横机领放入该洗水液中,在45-80℃条件下洗水30-60min。The washing water treatment (over-soft oil treatment) specifically includes: putting the double-sided flat knitting collar after the liquid ammonia finishing into the washing water solution at a bath ratio of 1:18-40, and under the condition of 45-80° C. Wash with water for 30-60min.
表4Table 4
再对洗水处理(过软油处理)后的双面横机领进行轧领,烘干和拆线处理,最终制得高弹高保形耐洗横机领。Then, the double-sided flat knitting collar after the washing water treatment (over-soft oil treatment) is rolled, dried and stitched, and finally a high elasticity, high shape retention and washable flat knitting collar is obtained.
对本实施例制得的高弹高保形耐洗横机领进行相应的物理、化学指标测试,测试方法、参照标准以及测试结果如下表5所示。Corresponding physical and chemical index tests were carried out on the high-elasticity, high-shape-retaining and washing-resistant flat knitting machine collars prepared in this example, and the test methods, reference standards and test results are shown in Table 5 below.
表5table 5
本实施例中,所制作的Mock-Up(成衣模型)原样如图2所示,经10次家庭洗涤后的Mock-Up如图3所示,对比图2-图3后可以发现,该成衣模型于10次家庭洗涤后,不出现变形,荷叶边,塌角等常见问题,经10次家庭洗涤后的成衣模型即可以用作所述标准样品。In this embodiment, the original Mock-Up (clothing model) produced is shown in Figure 2, and the Mock-Up after 10 home washings is shown in Figure 3. After comparing Figures 2 to 3, it can be found that the garment is After 10 times of home washing, the model does not have common problems such as deformation, ruffles, slumps, etc. The ready-made model after 10 times of home washing can be used as the standard sample.
从表5及图2-图3中可以看出,本实施例制得的高弹高保形耐洗横机领具有良好的保形性能,其于10次家庭洗涤后,不出现变形,荷叶边,塌角等常见问题。As can be seen from Table 5 and Figures 2 to 3, the high-elasticity, high-conformity and washing-resistant flat knitting collar made in this example has good shape-retaining performance, and after 10 home washings, no deformation occurs, and the lotus leaf is not deformed. Edges, slumps and other common problems.
以上所述,仅为本发明的具体实施例,不能以其限定发明实施的范围,所以其等同组件的置换,或依本发明专利保护范围所作的等同变化与修饰,都应仍属于本专利涵盖的范畴。另外,本发明中的技术特征与技术特征之间、技术特征与技术发明之间、技术发明与技术发明之间均可以自由组合使用。The above descriptions are only specific embodiments of the present invention, and cannot limit the scope of implementation of the invention. Therefore, the replacement of equivalent components, or the equivalent changes and modifications made according to the scope of the patent protection of the present invention should still be covered by this patent. category. In addition, the technical features and technical features, technical features and technical inventions, and technical inventions and technical inventions in the present invention can be freely combined and used.
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Application publication date: 20210309 Assignee: Guangdong Shirushi Textile Technology Co.,Ltd. Assignor: Guangdong Esquel Textile Co.,Ltd. Contract record no.: X2024980037662 Denomination of invention: A high elasticity, high shape retention, and washable horizontal machine collar and its manufacturing method and application Granted publication date: 20220819 License type: Common License Record date: 20241216 Application publication date: 20210309 Assignee: Guangdong Yipai Textile Technology Co.,Ltd. Assignor: Guangdong Esquel Textile Co.,Ltd. Contract record no.: X2024980037660 Denomination of invention: A high elasticity, high shape retention, and washable horizontal machine collar and its manufacturing method and application Granted publication date: 20220819 License type: Common License Record date: 20241216 |