CN114197200B - Manufacturing method of all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric - Google Patents
Manufacturing method of all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN114197200B CN114197200B CN202111489284.1A CN202111489284A CN114197200B CN 114197200 B CN114197200 B CN 114197200B CN 202111489284 A CN202111489284 A CN 202111489284A CN 114197200 B CN114197200 B CN 114197200B
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 182
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 51
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 34
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 52
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 31
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 31
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- 108090000790 Enzymes Proteins 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 102000004190 Enzymes Human genes 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 238000009999 singeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 238000007599 discharging Methods 0.000 claims description 18
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000000149 penetrating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 229920001971 elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000007667 floating Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000000985 reactive dye Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000005096 rolling process Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 abstract description 24
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 abstract description 21
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 abstract description 9
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 abstract description 7
- 239000012466 permeate Substances 0.000 abstract description 3
- -1 liquid ammonia small molecules Chemical class 0.000 abstract 1
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 27
- 208000012886 Vertigo Diseases 0.000 description 26
- 229940088598 enzyme Drugs 0.000 description 15
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 10
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 9
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000007670 refining Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000005562 fading Methods 0.000 description 4
- 108010059892 Cellulase Proteins 0.000 description 3
- 206010020112 Hirsutism Diseases 0.000 description 3
- YZCKVEUIGOORGS-IGMARMGPSA-N Protium Chemical compound [1H] YZCKVEUIGOORGS-IGMARMGPSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229940106157 cellulase Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 238000004132 cross linking Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000011121 sodium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 240000002853 Nelumbo nucifera Species 0.000 description 2
- 235000006508 Nelumbo nucifera Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000006510 Nelumbo pentapetala Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000008878 coupling Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000010168 coupling process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000005859 coupling reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004458 analytical method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002045 lasting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920006306 polyurethane fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000035484 reaction time Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/58—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides
- D06M11/59—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides with ammonia; with complexes of organic amines with inorganic substances
- D06M11/61—Liquid ammonia
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/35—Abrasion, pilling or fibrillation resistance
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/40—Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
Abstract
The manufacturing method of the all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric sequentially comprises the following steps: spinning, weaving, grey cloth inspecting, singeing, scouring, enzyme washing, shaping, drying, liquid ammonia finishing, tentering, shaping and preshrinking. The spinning operation is carried out in the twist range of 1245-1618TPM, and the yarn is all-cotton yarn. And (3) performing liquid ammonia finishing on the grey cloth after the sizing and drying at the temperature of not more than-34 ℃. The yarn adopts the strong twist yarn, and cotton fiber excessively twists and deforms, and under the state of being stretched by external force, better ductility exists, and after external force is withdrawn, the yarn has high twist degree and good resilience. The liquid ammonia small molecules below-34 ℃ instantaneously permeate into cotton fibers, the yarn becomes uniform in thickness, the dynamic friction coefficient among the yarns is reduced, and the elastic recovery and shape retention of the rib fabric are obviously improved. The rib fabric produced by the method has good elastic recovery, shape retention and durability.
Description
Technical Field
The application relates to the technical field of textile dyeing and finishing, in particular to a manufacturing method of an all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric.
Background
The cotton fabric has the excellent characteristics of comfortable wearing, good moisture absorption and air permeability and the like, and the all-cotton knitted T-shirt is simple in style, convenient, random, comfortable and elegant, and is always favored by wide consumers.
Knitted T-shirts generally use rib fabric as the collar and part of the cuffs are also ribbed, so that the knitted T-shirts have larger extensibility and elasticity when being transversely stretched due to the structural characteristics of the rib. However, after long-time wearing and repeated pulling and washing, the rib neckline and the cuff are loosened and deformed, and even wave and lotus leaf edges are generated, namely, the elastic recovery and the shape retention are poor, and the appearance effect and the wearability are affected.
Disclosure of Invention
The application provides a manufacturing method of an all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric, and mainly aims to provide a rib fabric which is more durable and durable, and has better elastic recovery and conformal property.
The embodiment of the application provides a manufacturing method of an all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric, which sequentially comprises the following steps:
spinning: spinning operation is carried out in the twist range of 1245-1618TPM, and the yarn is all-cotton yarn;
weaving: after spinning, weaving the yarns into grey cloth with rib textures;
inspecting grey cloth: inspecting the woven grey cloth on a cloth inspecting machine;
singeing: singeing the inspected grey cloth by a singeing machine;
boiling: boiling the singed grey cloth;
and (3) enzyme washing: performing enzyme washing operation on the boiled grey cloth;
shaping dry cloth: rolling water on the sizing machine and drying the grey cloth after enzyme washing;
liquid ammonia finishing: carrying out liquid ammonia finishing on the dried grey cloth at the temperature not exceeding-34 ℃;
tentering and shaping: carrying out tentering setting operation on the grey cloth after liquid ammonia finishing;
preshrinking: and preshrinking the grey cloth after tentering and shaping on a rubber blanket of a preshrinking machine.
In one embodiment, the pre-shrinking is performed by controlling the shrinkage of the grey cloth to be between-5% and 0.
In one embodiment, the liquid ammonia finishing speed is 10-20m/min.
In one embodiment, the tension of the blanket feeding of the gray fabric in the liquid ammonia finishing is 4-5kg, and the tension of the blanket discharging of the gray fabric in the liquid ammonia finishing is 5-6kg.
In one embodiment, the manufacturing method further comprises dyeing between the liquid ammonia finishing and the tentering setting; and during dyeing, the grey cloth after liquid ammonia finishing is dyed by using reactive dye, and after dyeing, soaping and water washing are carried out to wash off the floating color.
In one embodiment, polyurethane, a softening agent and a penetrating agent are added when the dyed grey cloth is subjected to the tentering setting.
In one embodiment, the polyurethane concentration is 30-60g/L and the tentering setting temperature is 150-170 ℃.
In one embodiment, the speed of the tentering setting is 10-30m/min.
According to the manufacturing method of the all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric, the yarn spinning stage is under the condition that the twist range of the TPM 1245-1618 is large, namely the yarn adopts the strong twist yarn. The high twist yarn has larger twist degree during spinning, and the cotton fiber is excessively distorted and deformed, so that the high twist yarn has better ductility than the common twist yarn in a state of being stretched by external force, and has better elastic recovery after the external force is removed because of the large twist degree and better recovery, so that the rib fabric woven by the high twist yarn has better elastic recovery. The produced rib grey cloth, namely rib fabric, is subjected to liquid ammonia finishing, liquid ammonia micromolecules below-34 ℃ instantaneously permeate into cotton fibers, so that the crystallinity of the cotton fibers is changed, the cellulose molecules are rearranged, the natural distortion of the cotton fibers is reduced, the yarns become uniform in thickness, the dynamic friction coefficient among the yarns is reduced, the resistance of the fabric is reduced when the fabric rebounds, and the elastic recovery and shape retention of the rib fabric after liquid ammonia finishing are obviously improved. In addition, the liquid ammonia finishing can eliminate the internal stress of the fibers, increase the toughness and strength and improve the wear resistance of the fabric, so that the problems of whitening and fading of the color of the dark rib fabric after washing can be improved. The rib fabric produced by the manufacturing method of the embodiment has good elastic recovery property and shape retention property, and is more durable and good in durability.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic flow chart of a manufacturing method of an all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric in an embodiment of the application.
Detailed Description
The application will be described in further detail below with reference to the drawings by means of specific embodiments. Wherein like elements in different embodiments are numbered alike in association. In the following embodiments, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a better understanding of the present application. However, one skilled in the art will readily recognize that some of the features may be omitted, or replaced by other elements, materials, or methods in different situations. In some instances, related operations of the present application have not been shown or described in the specification in order to avoid obscuring the core portions of the present application, and may be unnecessary to persons skilled in the art from a detailed description of the related operations, which may be presented in the description and general knowledge of one skilled in the art.
Furthermore, the described features, operations, or characteristics of the description may be combined in any suitable manner in various embodiments. Also, various steps or acts in the method descriptions may be interchanged or modified in a manner apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art. Thus, the various orders in the description and drawings are for clarity of description of only certain embodiments, and are not meant to be required orders unless otherwise indicated.
The numbering of the components itself, e.g. "first", "second", etc., is used herein merely to distinguish between the described objects and does not have any sequential or technical meaning. The term "coupled" as used herein includes both direct and indirect coupling (coupling), unless otherwise indicated.
In one embodiment, the method for manufacturing the all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric sequentially comprises the following steps:
s1 spinning: spinning operation is carried out under the twist range of 1245-1618TPM, and the yarn is 100% all-cotton yarn.
S2, weaving: after spinning, weaving by a weft knitting circular knitting machine, and weaving the yarns into grey cloth with rib textures.
S3, gray fabric inspection: and (5) inspecting the woven grey cloth on a cloth inspecting machine.
S4 singeing: and (3) carrying out singeing operation on the inspected grey cloth by a singeing machine, wherein the singeing machine burns off hairiness on the surface of the grey cloth, so that the surface of the fabric is smooth.
S5, boiling-off: and (5) boiling and refining the singed grey cloth. During the scouring operation, 1-2g/L caustic soda, 0.5-1.5g/L hydrogen peroxide and 1-2g/L refining agent are added, the temperature is 95-100 ℃ for 30-60 minutes, and the grey cloth is washed to be neutral (pH is 6-8) by acetic acid after the scouring operation treatment.
S6, enzyme washing: and (5) performing enzyme washing operation on the boiled grey cloth. During enzyme washing, cellulase in 1-3g/L and acetic acid in 1-2g/L are added and maintained at 45-55 deg.c for 40-50 min. Wherein acetic acid is used to adjust the pH to ph=5-6.
S7, shaping dry cloth: and (3) rolling water on the sizing machine for the grey cloth after enzyme washing, and drying. When the cloth is shaped and dried, the temperature is 130-160 ℃ and the speed is 20-40m/min.
S8, liquid ammonia finishing: and (3) carrying out liquid ammonia finishing on the dried grey cloth at the temperature not exceeding-34 ℃.
S9 dyeing: and (3) dyeing the grey cloth finished by the liquid ammonia into a required color by using a reactive dye according to a certain formula, and performing soaping and water washing after dyeing to wash off the floating color.
S10 tentering and shaping: and (3) tentering and shaping the grey cloth after liquid ammonia finishing.
S11, preshrinking: preshrinking the tentered and shaped grey cloth on a rubber blanket of a preshrinking machine, and controlling the shrinkage of the grey cloth to be between-5 and 0.
S12, checking a finished product: and (5) checking the appearance quality and the internal quality index of the pre-contracted grey cloth.
Finally, the produced grey cloth is the rib fabric manufactured by the application.
By adopting the manufacturing method (the manufacturing method for short) of the all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric in the embodiment, the yarn spinning stage is under the condition of a larger twist range of 1245-1618TPM, namely the yarn adopts the strong twist yarn. The high twist yarn has larger twist degree during spinning, and the cotton fiber is excessively distorted and deformed, so that the high twist yarn has better ductility than the common twist yarn in a state of being stretched by external force, and has better elastic recovery after the external force is removed because of the large twist degree and better recovery, so that the rib fabric woven by the high twist yarn has better elastic recovery. The produced rib grey cloth, namely rib fabric, is subjected to liquid ammonia finishing, liquid ammonia micromolecules below-34 ℃ instantaneously permeate into cotton fibers, so that the crystallinity of the cotton fibers is changed, the cellulose molecules are rearranged, the natural distortion of the cotton fibers is reduced, the yarns become uniform in thickness, the dynamic friction coefficient among the yarns is reduced, the resistance of the fabric is reduced when the fabric rebounds, and the elastic recovery and shape retention of the rib fabric after liquid ammonia finishing are obviously improved. In addition, the liquid ammonia finishing can eliminate the internal stress of the fibers, increase the toughness and strength and improve the wear resistance of the fabric, so that the problems of whitening and fading of the color of the dark rib fabric after washing can be improved. The rib fabric produced by the manufacturing method of the embodiment has good elastic recovery property and shape retention property, and is more durable and good in durability.
In one embodiment, the liquid ammonia finishing speed is 10-20m/min. In order to ensure that the fabric has enough reaction time after being padded with the liquid ammonia, the speed of the fabric cannot be too high, but the speed of the fabric cannot be too low, the production efficiency is influenced by the too low speed, and when the speed of the liquid ammonia is 10-20m/min, the elastic recovery rate is ensured, and the production efficiency is also considered. The tension of the blanket for feeding the gray fabric in the liquid ammonia finishing is 4-5kg, and the tension of the blanket for discharging the gray fabric in the liquid ammonia finishing is 5-6kg. The cloth feeding blanket tension and the cloth discharging blanket tension are related to the speed of liquid ammonia processing, and also relate to the cloth surface tension of the fabric before and after the liquid ammonia processing, wherein a lower speed corresponds to a larger tension, and a higher speed corresponds to a smaller tension.
In one embodiment, the dyed grey cloth is tentered and shaped on a hot air tentering shaping machine, and polyurethane, a softening agent and a penetrating agent are added during tentering and shaping. The concentration of polyurethane is 30-60g/L, the concentration of softening agent is 10-50g/L, the concentration of penetrating agent is 1-3/L, and the temperature for tentering and shaping is 150-170 ℃. The speed of tentering setting is 10-30m/min.
During tentering setting, a softening agent and a penetrating agent are generally added into the common fabric, the speed of the fabric is generally 30-60m/min, and the temperature is 130-150 ℃.
According to the application, polyurethane is added during tentering and shaping, and the polyurethane has good elasticity, so that the elastic recovery of the rib fabric is improved. Further limiting the concentration of polyurethane, increasing the reaction temperature, enabling the polyurethane and cotton fiber to generate crosslinking reaction at high temperature, forming a film on the surface of the cotton fiber, protecting the fabric, and preventing the problems of fading and blushing after washing. Better, in order to facilitate the better cross-linking reaction of polyurethane, the speed of the vehicle is reduced, and more sufficient time is provided for the cross-linking reaction of polyurethane.
More preferably, in other embodiments, the temperature in tentering setting may be set to 155-170 ℃, and the speed of tentering setting may be set to 10-25m/min.
The manufacturing method adopts the tentering setting operation method in the embodiment, so that the manufactured rib fabric has better color stability, and is not easy to fade and whiten even after repeated friction and water washing.
The application relates to a manufacturing method of an all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric, which is described in detail below, taking a rib cotton fabric manufactured by 40S/1 x1 as an example.
Example 1
The manufacturing method of the all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric sequentially comprises the following steps:
s1 spinning: at 1200TPM twist, 40S/1 ring spun yarn, the yarn was 100% cotton yarn.
S2, weaving: after spinning, weaving by a weft knitting circular knitting machine, and weaving the yarns into grey cloth with 1x1 rib structures.
S3, gray fabric inspection: and (5) inspecting the woven grey cloth on a cloth inspecting machine.
S4 singeing: and (3) carrying out singeing operation on the inspected grey cloth by a singeing machine, wherein the singeing machine burns off hairiness on the surface of the grey cloth, so that the surface of the fabric is smooth.
S5, boiling-off: and (5) boiling and refining the singed grey cloth. During the scouring operation, 1-2g/L caustic soda, 0.5-1.5g/L hydrogen peroxide and 1-2g/L refining agent are added, the temperature is 95-100 ℃ for 30-60 minutes, and the grey cloth is washed to be neutral (pH is 6-8) by acetic acid after the scouring operation treatment.
S6, enzyme washing: and (5) performing enzyme washing operation on the boiled grey cloth. During enzyme washing, cellulase in 1-3g/L and acetic acid in 1-2g/L are added and maintained at 45-55 deg.c for 40-50 min. Wherein acetic acid is used to adjust the pH to ph=5-6.
S7, shaping dry cloth: and (3) rolling water on the sizing machine for the grey cloth after enzyme washing, and drying. When the cloth is shaped and dried, the temperature is 130-160 ℃ and the speed is 20-40m/min.
S8, liquid ammonia finishing: and (3) adopting a Kyoto liquid ammonia machine in Japan to carry out liquid ammonia finishing on the dried grey cloth at a temperature not exceeding-34 ℃.
Liquid ammonia finishing: the vehicle speed is 10m/min, the temperature of the blanket feeding position is 110 ℃, the blanket feeding tension of the gray fabric is 5kg, the blanket discharging position is 100 ℃, and the blanket discharging tension of the gray fabric is 6kg.
S9 dyeing: and (3) dyeing the grey cloth finished by the liquid ammonia into a required color by using a reactive dye according to a certain formula, and performing soaping and water washing after dyeing to wash off the floating color.
S10 tentering and shaping: and (3) tentering and shaping the grey cloth after liquid ammonia finishing.
Tentering and shaping: polyurethane, softener and penetrant are added. The concentration of polyurethane is 30-60g/L, the concentration of softening agent is 10-50g/L, the concentration of penetrating agent is 1-3/L, and the temperature for tentering and shaping is 150-170 ℃. The speed of tentering setting is 10-30m/min.
S11, preshrinking: preshrinking the tentered and shaped grey cloth on a rubber blanket of a preshrinking machine, and controlling the shrinkage of the grey cloth to be between-5 and 0.
S12, checking a finished product: and (5) checking the appearance quality and the internal quality index of the pre-contracted grey cloth.
Example 2
Manufacturing method of all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric, wherein
In S8 liquid ammonia finishing, the speed of the vehicle is 15m/min, the temperature of the blanket feeding position is 110 ℃, the blanket feeding tension of the gray fabric is 4.5kg, the temperature of the blanket discharging position is 100 ℃, and the blanket discharging tension of the gray fabric is 5.5kg.
The remaining procedure was the same as in example 1.
Example 3
Manufacturing method of all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric, wherein
In S8, the liquid ammonia finishing process is carried out at a speed of 20m/min, the temperature of the blanket feeding position is 110 ℃, the blanket feeding tension of the gray fabric is 4kg, the temperature of the blanket discharging position is 100 ℃, and the blanket discharging tension of the gray fabric is 5kg.
The remaining procedure was the same as in example 1.
Example 4
Manufacturing method of all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric, wherein
In S1 spinning, spinning operation is carried out on cotton fibers under the twist of 1300 TPM.
The remaining procedure was the same as in example 1.
Example 5
Manufacturing method of all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric, wherein
In S1 spinning, spinning operation is carried out on cotton fibers under the twist of 1300 TPM.
In S8 liquid ammonia finishing, the speed of the vehicle is 15m/min, the temperature of the blanket feeding position is 110 ℃, the blanket feeding tension of the gray fabric is 4.5kg, the temperature of the blanket discharging position is 100 ℃, and the blanket discharging tension of the gray fabric is 5.5kg.
The remaining procedure was the same as in example 1.
Example 6
Manufacturing method of all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric, wherein
In S1 spinning, spinning operation is carried out on cotton fibers under the twist of 1300 TPM.
In S8, the liquid ammonia finishing process is carried out at a speed of 20m/min, the temperature of the blanket feeding position is 110 ℃, the blanket feeding tension of the gray fabric is 4kg, the temperature of the blanket discharging position is 100 ℃, and the blanket discharging tension of the gray fabric is 5kg.
The remaining procedure was the same as in example 1.
Example 7
Manufacturing method of all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric, wherein
In S1 spinning, spinning operation is carried out on cotton fibers under 1400TPM twist.
The remaining procedure was the same as in example 1.
Example 8
Manufacturing method of all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric, wherein
In S1 spinning, spinning operation is carried out on cotton fibers under 1400TPM twist.
In S8 liquid ammonia finishing, the speed of the vehicle is 15m/min, the temperature of the blanket feeding position is 110 ℃, the blanket feeding tension of the gray fabric is 4.5kg, the temperature of the blanket discharging position is 100 ℃, and the blanket discharging tension of the gray fabric is 5.5kg.
The remaining procedure was the same as in example 1.
Example 9
Manufacturing method of all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric, wherein
In S1 spinning, spinning operation is carried out on cotton fibers under 1400TPM twist.
In S8, the liquid ammonia finishing process is carried out at a speed of 20m/min, the temperature of the blanket feeding position is 110 ℃, the blanket feeding tension of the gray fabric is 4kg, the temperature of the blanket discharging position is 100 ℃, and the blanket discharging tension of the gray fabric is 5kg.
The remaining procedure was the same as in example 1.
Comparative examples
The manufacturing method of the all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric sequentially comprises the following steps:
s1 spinning: at 1050TPM twist, 40S/1 ring spun yarn was 100% cotton yarn.
S2, weaving: after spinning, weaving by a weft knitting circular knitting machine, and weaving the yarns into grey cloth with 1x1 rib structures.
S3, gray fabric inspection: and (5) inspecting the woven grey cloth on a cloth inspecting machine.
S4 singeing: and (3) carrying out singeing operation on the inspected grey cloth by a singeing machine, wherein the singeing machine burns off hairiness on the surface of the grey cloth, so that the surface of the fabric is smooth.
S5, boiling-off: and (5) boiling and refining the singed grey cloth. During the scouring operation, 1-2g/L caustic soda, 0.5-1.5g/L hydrogen peroxide and 1-2g/L refining agent are added, the temperature is 95-100 ℃ for 30-60 minutes, and the grey cloth is washed to be neutral (pH is 6-8) by acetic acid after the scouring operation treatment.
S6, enzyme washing: and (5) performing enzyme washing operation on the boiled grey cloth. During enzyme washing, cellulase in 1-3g/L and acetic acid in 1-2g/L are added and maintained at 45-55 deg.c for 40-50 min. Wherein acetic acid is used to adjust the pH to ph=5-6.
S7, shaping dry cloth: and (3) rolling water on the sizing machine for the grey cloth after enzyme washing, and drying. When the cloth is shaped and dried, the temperature is 130-160 ℃ and the speed is 20-40m/min.
S8, dyeing: and (3) dying the grey cloth after the shaped and dried cloth into a required color by using a reactive dye according to a certain formula, and performing soaping and water washing after dying to wash off the floating color.
S9, tentering and shaping: and (3) tentering and shaping the grey cloth after liquid ammonia finishing.
Tentering and shaping: adding softening agent and penetrating agent. The concentration of the softening agent is 10-50g/L, the concentration of the penetrating agent is 1-3/L, and the temperature for tentering and shaping is 130-150 ℃. The speed of tentering setting is 30-60m/min.
S10 preshrinking: preshrinking the tentered and shaped grey cloth on a rubber blanket of a preshrinking machine, and controlling the shrinkage of the grey cloth to be between-5 and 0.
S11, checking a finished product: and (5) checking the appearance quality and the internal quality index of the pre-contracted grey cloth.
The rib fabric produced by adopting the process combination of 9 groups of embodiments of the application is compared with the rib fabric produced by the traditional process (the traditional process is the process of the comparison embodiment), and the key indexes are tested in comparison, and the result is as follows:
as can be seen from the test results of the table, the rib fabric produced by the process combination process of the embodiment 9 has the advantages of greatly improving the elastic recovery and the shape retention, being more durable and lasting than the traditional process. The appearance flatness and color change after washing are also obviously superior to those of the traditional technology.
According to the analysis test result, the yarn twist improves the elastic recovery rate, 1400TPM is better than 1300TPM,1300TPM is better than 1200TPM, but the rib fabric of 1400TPM is close to the rib fabric of 1300TPM, and the rib fabric of 1400TPM has hard and astringent hand feeling, so that the hand feeling and the elastic recovery are comprehensively considered, and the rib fabric with the twist of 1300TPM is selected.
The improvement of elastic recovery rate by the liquid ammonia process is that, in order from good to relatively bad, example 1> example 2> example 3, example 4> example 5> example 6, example 7> example 8> example 9. Taking three examples of 1200TPM groups as an example, wherein example 1 and example 2 are relatively close, but the speed of the vehicle corresponding to example 1 is relatively low, and the production efficiency is affected, so that the liquid ammonia process corresponding to example 2 is selected. Examples of the other two groups selected examples 5 and 8.
From the standpoint of the results of all the schemes and the hand feeling of the fabric, the preferred process scheme in 9 groups of examples is example 5.
The rib fabric produced by the method has good elastic recovery, shape retention and durability, and also greatly improves the problems of repeated fading and blushing of the rib fabric during washing. For example, the rib fabric manufactured by the application is used for manufacturing necklines and partial cuffs of the knitted T-shirt. After the knitted T-shirt is worn for a long time and is repeatedly pulled and washed, the neckline and the cuffs of the knitted T-shirt cannot be loosened and deformed, the condition of waving and lotus leaves is avoided, the knitted T-shirt still has good elasticity and ductility, and even dark-colored clothes still have a color consistent with that of the original clothes after being repeatedly washed.
The foregoing description of the application has been presented for purposes of illustration and description, and is not intended to be limiting. Several simple deductions, modifications or substitutions may also be made by a person skilled in the art to which the application pertains, based on the idea of the application.
Claims (3)
1. The manufacturing method of the all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric is characterized by sequentially comprising the following steps of:
spinning: spinning operation is carried out in the twist range of 1245-1618TPM, and the yarn is all-cotton yarn;
weaving: after spinning, weaving the yarns into grey cloth with rib textures;
inspecting grey cloth: inspecting the woven grey cloth on a cloth inspecting machine;
singeing: singeing the inspected grey cloth by a singeing machine;
boiling: boiling the singed grey cloth;
and (3) enzyme washing: performing enzyme washing operation on the boiled grey cloth;
shaping dry cloth: rolling water on the sizing machine and drying the grey cloth after enzyme washing;
liquid ammonia finishing: carrying out liquid ammonia finishing on the dried grey cloth at the temperature not exceeding-34 ℃; the speed of the liquid ammonia finishing is 10-20m/min; the tension of the grey cloth feeding blanket in the liquid ammonia finishing is 4-5kg, and the tension of the grey cloth discharging blanket in the liquid ammonia finishing is 5-6kg;
tentering and shaping: carrying out tentering setting operation on the grey cloth after liquid ammonia finishing;
preshrinking: preshrinking the grey cloth after tentering and shaping on a rubber blanket of a preshrinking machine;
the manufacturing method further comprises dyeing between the liquid ammonia finishing and the tentering setting; when the dyed grey cloth is subjected to tentering setting, polyurethane, a softening agent and a penetrating agent are added; the concentration of the polyurethane is 30-60g/L, and the temperature for tentering and shaping is 155-170 ℃; the speed of the tentering setting is 10-25m/min.
2. The method of making an all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric according to claim 1, wherein said pre-shrinking is performed while controlling the shrinkage of said blank to be between-5% and 0.
3. The method for producing an all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric according to claim 1, wherein, during dyeing, the grey cloth after finishing with liquid ammonia is dyed with reactive dye, and after dyeing, soaping and washing are performed to wash off the floating color.
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