CN112218609A

CN112218609A - Two-phase composition for topical application

Info

Publication number: CN112218609A
Application number: CN201880094031.4A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 孙泉; 黄宇
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2018-05-30
Filing date: 2018-05-30
Publication date: 2021-01-12
Also published as: WO2019227334A1

Abstract

A two-phase composition for topical application comprising: a) an aqueous phase containing at least one polysaccharide; and b) a fatty phase exhibiting a viscosity at a temperature of 25 ℃ of between 25mPa · s and 5000mPa · s, containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or at least one phenyl silicone oil, wherein the aqueous phase is separated from the fatty phase. Method for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from a keratin material, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking together a two-phase composition as described above to form an oil-in-water emulsion and applying this emulsion to the keratin material.

Description

Two-phase composition for topical application

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing cosmetic products from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes. In particular, the present invention relates to a two-phase composition for topical application. The invention also relates to a method for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.

Background

Compositions consisting of two separate phases, in particular a separate aqueous phase and a fatty phase, are generally referred to as "two-phase compositions". The two-phase composition is appealing to consumers due to its pearl-like appearance. The two phases are separated by a single interface at rest.

Two-phase compositions have been described, for example, in documents EP 0370856 and EP 0603080, in particular for removing make-up from the eyes.

Document EP 0603080 describes the use of alkyldimethylbenzyl ammonium and in particular benzalkonium chloride as a phase-separating agent for obtaining rapid phase separation.

Document EP 1514534 also describes a two-phase composition containing sodium bicarbonate as phase separating agent.

WO 2014/207259a2 discloses a two-phase composition for topical application comprising magnesium acetate.

The use of a two-phase composition requires prior shaking in order to form the emulsion. All of the above-mentioned two-phase compositions are characterized by a rapid phase separation (or delamination) of the two phases after their use. That is, the above-mentioned two-phase composition is easily emulsified by shaking and undergoes rapid phase separation after the shaking is stopped.

In particular, it is desirable for the two-phase compositions mentioned above to obtain a rapid phase separation, in particular because the user regards poor separation of the two phases as unaesthetic.

However, the emulsion obtained by shaking must have sufficient stability to enable the two phases to be applied uniformly.

Thus, there remains a need for a two-phase composition consisting of two separate phases that will form a stable and homogeneous emulsion after shaking.

There is also a need for emulsion-type compositions that have an aesthetic appearance (e.g., a pearly appearance) while being stable and uniform over time.

Disclosure of Invention

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a two-phase composition for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from a keratin material, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, which composition, after shaking, will form a stable and homogeneous pearl-like emulsion.

It is another object of the present invention to provide emulsion-type compositions which have an aesthetic appearance, such as a pearly appearance, while being stable and uniform over time. The composition comprises macroscopic oil droplets which are homogeneously dispersed in an aqueous phase and are stable over time. That is, the composition of the invention does not show any coalescence or dephasing of the oil droplets (i.e. separation of the aqueous phase from the oil droplets forming the fatty phase) at 25 ℃ over time, in particular during at least 3 months.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a kit comprising at least two separate compositions which, upon mixing, form a stable and homogeneous pearl-like emulsion.

Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a method for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.

Thus, according to one aspect of the present invention, provided is a two-phase composition for topical application comprising:

a) an aqueous phase containing at least one polysaccharide; and

b) a fatty phase exhibiting a viscosity at a temperature of 25 ℃ of between 25mPa s and 5000mPa s, containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or at least one phenyl silicone oil,

wherein the aqueous phase and the fat phase are separated.

According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

a) a dispersed fatty phase containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or at least one phenyl silicone oil; and

b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising at least one polysaccharide.

According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a kit comprising:

a) an oil composition exhibiting a viscosity at a temperature of 25 ℃ of between 25 and 5000 mPa-s, containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or at least one phenyl silicone oil; and

b) an aqueous composition comprising at least one polysaccharide;

wherein the oil composition and the aqueous composition are capable of forming an oil-in-water emulsion upon mixing.

According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from a keratin material, such as the skin, in particular the face, lips and/or eyes, comprising shaking together a two-phase composition as described above or an oil composition as described above and an aqueous composition to form an oil-in-water emulsion, and applying the emulsion to the keratin material.

According to another aspect of the present invention, provided is a method for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from a keratin material, such as the skin, in particular the face, lips and/or eyes, comprising applying to the keratin material a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

Surprisingly, the inventors have found that with a two-phase composition according to the invention comprising a polysaccharide in the aqueous phase and a hydrocarbon-based oil and/or at least one phenyl silicone oil in the fatty phase, one can obtain a two-phase composition having the desired quality, i.e. which will form a stable and homogeneous shiny pearl-like emulsion after shaking.

Without wishing to be bound by any theory, it is believed that the polysaccharide will stabilize the oil droplets formed after shaking in the aqueous phase, and the fat phase with a suitable viscosity ensures that it is stable in the aqueous phase.

In addition, the two-phase composition according to the invention enables the consumer to experience the application and conversion process himself.

Other advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and the examples below.

Detailed Description

The two-phase composition for topical application according to the invention comprises:

a) an aqueous phase containing at least one polysaccharide; and

wherein the aqueous phase and the fat phase are separated.

By "the aqueous phase and the fat phase are separated" it is meant that the aqueous phase and the fat phase are seen one above the other before shaking.

After shaking to form a stable and homogeneous oil-in-water emulsion, the two-phase composition can be used to care for and/or make up keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.

By "skin" is meant all body skin, including the face, lips, and eyes.

The term "stable" means that the composition does not undergo any significant change in structure or properties for at least one month after its manufacture, and in particular for at least three months after its manufacture.

Aqueous phase

According to the invention, the two-phase composition comprises an aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase comprises water.

The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or basswood (lime blossom) water; and/or natural spring or mineral water, such as Vittel water, Vicia basin water, fountain (Uriae) water, Lifuge (Roche Posay) water, Bourboule water, lake Anshenh-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizi res water, Neyr-les-Bains water, los-uneer water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christus water, Fumades water, Terris-les-Bains water, and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted (reclaimed) spring water, i.e. water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium etc. characteristic of reconstituted spring water.

The aqueous phase may also comprise a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature: 25 ℃), for example a monohydric alcohol containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, for example ethanol or isopropanol; polyols comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, in particular containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (containing in particular 3 to 16 carbon atoms), e.g. monopropylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ether, dipropylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ethers or tripropylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ethers, monoethylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ethers, diethylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ethers or triethylene glycols (C)₁-C₄) An alkyl ether; and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous phase of the composition of the invention preferably comprises water and an alcohol selected from: monohydric alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol; and polyhydric alcohols, such as preferably butylene glycol, glycerol or propylene glycol.

Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises water, ethanol and glycerol.

The monohydric alcohol may be present, for example, in an amount less than or equal to 10% by weight and preferably in the range of from 0.1% to 10%, more preferably in the range of from 3% to 8%, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The polyol may be present in an amount ranging from less than or equal to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The content of the aqueous phase is adjusted according to the desired cosmetic properties so that the freezing point of the composition is below 4 ℃.

In particular, the two-phase composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in an amount ranging from 10% to 95% by weight, preferably from 25% to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 40% to 90% by weight and still more preferably from 50% to 88% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.

Polysaccharides

According to the invention, the aqueous phase comprises at least one polysaccharide as hydrophilic gelling agent.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" denotes a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the two-phase composition according to the invention.

In general, the polysaccharide according to the invention may be selected from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae and from higher plants (upper plants), such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular cellulose and its derivatives and fructans; heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannan, glucomannan, pectin, and derivatives thereof.

In particular, the polysaccharide may be selected from fructans, gellan gum, dextran, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextran (dextran); cellulose and its derivatives, especially methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose; mannans, xylans, lignins, arabinans, galactans, polygalacturonic acids, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylan, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agar-agar, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, carob gum; galactomannans, such as guar gum and non-ionic derivatives, especially hydroxypropyl guar and ionic derivatives thereof; a biopolysaccharide gum of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gum; mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfate and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the aqueous phase comprises as hydrophilic gelling agent at least one polysaccharide chosen from: carrageenans, especially kappa-carrageenan; gellan gum; agar; xanthan gum; alginate-based compounds, especially sodium alginate; scleroglucan gum; guar gum; inulin; pullulan; and mixtures thereof.

These polysaccharides can be chemically modified, in particular by urea, urethane groups or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphorylation, amination, amidation, alkylation reactions or by a plurality of these modifications.

The derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

According to a particular embodiment, the polysaccharide is selected from gellan gum, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds (in particular sodium alginate), scleroglucan gum, guar gum, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the polysaccharide is xanthan gum.

Xanthan gum has a molecular weight between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 g/mol and a viscosity (measured with a Brookfield LVT viscometer at 25 ℃ at 60 rpm) between 0.6 pa.s and 1.65 pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum.

Xanthan gum is represented by, for example, the following products: products sold under the name Rhodicare by RHODIA CHIMIE, products sold under the name SATIAXANE (for use in the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries) by Cargil texturing Solutions, products sold under the name NOVAXAN (TM) by ADM and products sold under the name Kelzan (TM) by CP-Kelco^®And Keltrol^®The product for sale.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the polysaccharide is gellan gum.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the polysaccharide agent is a mixture of gellan gum and xanthan gum.

Preferably, the polysaccharide may be present in an amount of 0.05 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably 0.1 wt% to 3 wt%, more preferably 0.2 wt% to 1.5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

Fat phase

According to the invention, the two-phase composition comprises a fatty phase which exhibits a viscosity of between 25 and 5000 mPa-s at a temperature of 25 ℃.

Preferably, the viscosity of the fatty phase is between 25 and 50 mPas, more preferably between 28 and 48 mPas.

The viscosity is generally measured at 25 ℃ with a viscometer RHEOMAT RM 180 with a spindle # 2 adapted to the viscosity of the product to be tested (spindle selected for UD (Unit deviation) measurements with a deviation between 10 and 90), with the spindle inside the composition at 200s^-1The measurement was performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the shear rate (cisailment). The UD values may then be converted to poises (1 poise = 0.1Pa · s) using a correspondence table.

The two-phase composition according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase in an amount ranging from 5% to 90% by weight, preferably from 10% to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 10% to 60% by weight and still better from 12% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.

The fatty phase comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or at least one phenyl silicone oil.

Hydrocarbon-based oils

The term "oil" means a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil that: formed essentially of or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms and free of any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

The hydrocarbon-based oil may be selected from:

-hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular:

- -branched chain C₈-C₁₆Alkanes, e.g. C of petroleum origin₈-C₁₆Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils such as those sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl;

linear alkanes, e.g. from Sasol n-dodecane (C) sold under the respective reference names Paracol 12-97 and Paracol 14-97₁₂) And n-tetradecane (C)₁₄) And mixtures thereof; undecane-tridecane mixture (n-undecane (C) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155059 from the company Cognis₁₁) And n-tridecane (C)₁₃) Mixtures of (a) and mixtures thereof;

short-chain esters (containing a total of 3 to 8 carbon atoms), such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate;

hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have a fatty acid sequence from C₄To C₂₄Varying chain lengths, which may be straight or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or triglycerides of octanoic acid, or else wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; shea butter; or caprylic/capric triglycerides, such as those sold by the company St. arrineries Dubois, or by the company Dynamit Nobel under the name Miglyol 810^®、812^®And 818^®Those that are sold;

-synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as vaseline, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam @, squalane and liquid paraffin, and mixtures thereof;

synthetic esters, e.g. of the formula R₁COOR₂Wherein R is₁Represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue having 1 to 40 carbon atoms or an aromatic acid residue having 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and R₂In particular hydrocarbon-based branches containing from 1 to 40 carbon atomsChain with the proviso that R₁ + R₂>10, for example purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoic acid C₁₂-C₁₅Alkyl esters, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alkyl or polyalkyl heptanoate, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoate, alkyl or polyalkyl decanoate, or alkyl or polyalkyl ricinoleate, for example propylene glycol dicaprylate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, and 2-octyldodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters;

fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, having branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chains containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol;

-C₂-C₈monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids with C₂-C₈Optionally hydroxylated mono-, di-or triesters of alcohols, in particular:

-- C₂-C₈carboxylic acids with C₂-C₈Optionally hydroxylated monoesters of alcohols;

-- C₂-C₈dicarboxylic acids with C₂-C₈Optionally hydroxylated diesters of alcohols, for example diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate;

-- C₂-C₈tricarboxylic acids and C₂-C₈Optionally hydroxylated triesters of alcohols, for example citric acid esters, for example trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, tributyl citrate or acetyl tributyl citrate;

-mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from C₂-C₈Tricarboxylic acids and C₂-C₈Optional hydroxyl group of alcoholA hydroxylated triester, such as a citrate ester, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, or acetyl tributyl citrate; and formula R₁COOR₂Wherein R is₁Represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue having 1 to 40 carbon atoms or an aromatic acid residue having 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and R₂In particular, a hydrocarbon-based branch containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R₁ + R₂>10, for example purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoic acid C₁₂-C₁₅Alkyl esters, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alkyl or polyalkyl heptanoate, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoate, alkyl or polyalkyl decanoate, or alkyl or polyalkyl ricinoleate, for example propylene glycol dicaprylate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, and 2-octyldodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters.

More preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from benzoic acid C₁₂-C₁₅Alkyl esters and acetyl tributyl citrate.

Phenyl silicone oil

The expression "phenyl silicone oil" denotes a silicone oil bearing at least one phenyl substituent.

The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from those that also have at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment or those that do not have a polydimethylsiloxane segment.

According to the invention, the polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponds to the following units:

-Si(CH₃)₂-O-。

the phenyl silicone oil may thus be selected from:

a) phenyl silicone oils optionally having a polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to the following formula (I):

(I)

wherein the radicals R are monovalent or divalent and represent, independently of one another, methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one radical R represents phenyl.

Preferably, the phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) comprises at least 3 (e.g. at least 4, at least 5 or at least 6) phenyl groups.

b) Phenyl silicone oils optionally having a polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to the following formula (II):

(II)

wherein the radicals R, independently of one another, represent methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one radical R represents phenyl.

Preferably, the phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) comprises at least 3 (e.g. at least 4 or at least 5) phenyl groups.

Mixtures of the different phenyl organopolysiloxane compounds described above can be used.

Examples which may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenylorganopolysiloxanes, tetraphenylorganosiloxanes or pentaphenylalkylorganopolysiloxanes.

Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made more particularly of phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (II) without any polydimethylsiloxane segment, in which at least 4 or at least 5 of the radicals R represent phenyl groups and the remaining radicals represent methyl groups.

Such phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are sold, inter alia, by Dow Corning under the reference name PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3, 5-trimethyl-1, 1,3,5, 5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane) or also tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold by Dow Corning under the reference name Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid.

They correspond in particular to the following formulae (III) and (III'):

(III)

(III')

wherein Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl.

c) Phenyl silicone oils having at least one polydimethylsiloxane fragment corresponding to the following formula (IV):

(IV)

wherein Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents-CH₂-CH(CH₃)(Ph)。

d) Phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (V) and mixtures thereof：

(V)

Wherein:

- R₁to R₁₀Are independently of one another saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C₁-C₃₀The group of a hydrocarbon or a mixture of hydrocarbons,

-m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m + n + q is not 0.

Preferably, the sum m + n + q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum m + n + p + q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.

Preferably, q is equal to 0.

More particularly, R₁To R₁₀Independently of one another, represents saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated), linear or branched C-based₁-C₃₀Radicals of hydrocarbons, and especiallyPreferably saturated, based on C₁-C₂₀(especially C)₁-C₁₈) A hydrocarbon group; or monocyclic or polycyclic C₆-C₁₄(and especially C)₁₀-C₁₃) An aryl group; or aralkyl radicals, the alkyl part of which is preferably C₁-C₃An alkyl group.

Preferably, R₁To R₁₀May each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl group, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl group. R₁To R₁₀May especially be the same and may additionally be a methyl group.

According to a more particular embodiment of formula (V), mention may be made of:

i) phenyl silicone oils, optionally having at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment, corresponding to formula (VI) below and mixtures thereof An object:

(VI)

wherein:

- R₁to R₆Are independently of one another saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C₁-C₃₀Hydrocarbon radical, preferably C₆-C₁₄An aryl group; or an aralkyl group of which the alkyl part is C₁-C₃An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,

-m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R₁To R₆Independently of one another represent a radical based on C₁-C₂₀(especially C)₁-C₁₈) Hydrocarbon groups, preferably alkyl groups; or C₆-C₁₄Aryl radical which is monocyclic (preferably C)₆) Or polycyclic, and especially C₁₀-C₁₃An aryl group; or an aralkyl group (preferably the aryl moiety is C)₆An aryl group; the alkyl moiety being C₁-C₃Alkyl groups).

Preferably, R₁To R₆May each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl group, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl group.

R₁To R₆In particular, may be the same and may additionally be a methyl group. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and/or n =0 and/or p =0 or 1 is applicable to formula (VI).

According to a particular embodiment, the phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils having at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment.

Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula (VI) wherein:

A) m =0 and n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 1 and 100

Preferably, R₁To R₆Is a methyl group.

According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from diphenyl polydimethylsiloxanes, such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt), KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175 cSt) or KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt).

B) p is between 1 and 100, the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, and n =0

These phenyl silicone oils optionally having at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment more particularly correspond to the following formula (VII):

(VII)

wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents the group-OSiMe₃And p is 0 or between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.

According to one embodiment of the invention, in the phenylsilicone having at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment, p is between 1 and 1000 and m is more particularly such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. Trimethylsiloxyphenylpolydimethylsiloxanes, such as are sold, inter alia, by the company Wacker under the reference name Belsil PDM 1000, can be used.

According to one embodiment of the phenylsilicone without polydimethylsiloxane segment, p is equal to 0 and m is between 1 and 1000, and in particular such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.

For example, phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane sold, inter alia, under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556) may be used.

ii) a phenyl silicone oil without polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to the following formula (VIII),and mixtures thereof:

(VIII)

wherein:

-R is, independently of one another, a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C-base₁-C₃₀Hydrocarbon radicals, preferably R being C₁-C₃₀Alkyl radical, preferably C₆-C₁₄Aryl radicals, or aralkyl radicals, the alkyl part of which is C₁-C₃An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,

-m and n are, independently of each other, an integer between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R represents, independently of one another, a saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated), linear or branched C-base₁-C₃₀Hydrocarbon radicals, and particularly preferably saturated C-based₁-C₂₀(especially C)₁-C₁₈And more particularly C₄-C₁₀) A hydrocarbon group; monocyclic or polycyclic C₆-C₁₄(and especially C)₁₀-C₁₃) An aryl group; or aralkyl groups, wherein preferably the aryl moiety is C₆Aryl, and the alkyl moiety is C₁-C₃An alkyl group.

Preferably, the radicals R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

The radicals R may in particular be identical and may additionally be methyl radicals.

Preferably, in formula (VIII), m = 1 or 2 or 3, and/or n =0 and/or p =0 or 1 may be applied.

According to a preferred embodiment, in formula (VIII), n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100. Preferably, R is a methyl group.

According to one embodiment, a material having a thickness of between 5 mm at 25 ℃ may be used²S and 1500 mm²A viscosity of between/s (i.e. 5 cSt to 1500 cSt), preferably of between 5 mm²S and 1000 mm²(VIII) a viscosity between/s (i.e. 5 cSt-1000 cSt).

According to this embodiment, the phenyl silicone oil is preferably selected from phenyl trimethicones (when n = 0), such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt); or from diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone oils (when m and n are between 1 and 100), such as KF56A from Shin Etsu or Silbaine 70663V30 oil from Rh ô ne-Poulenc (28 cSt). The values in parentheses represent the viscosity at 25 ℃.

e) Phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (IX), optionally with at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment, and mixtures thereof An object:

(IX)

wherein:

r1, R2, R5 and R6, which may be the same or different, are alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

r3 and R4, which may be the same or different, are alkyl groups or aryl groups (preferably C) containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms₆-C₁₄) Provided that at least one of R3 and R4Each is a phenyl group;

x is an alkyl group, a hydroxyl group or a vinyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

n and p are integers greater than or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular weight of less than 200000 g/mol, preferably less than 150000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100000 g/mol.

f) And mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the total weight of hydrocarbon-based oil and phenyl silicone oil present is from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil and/or the phenyl silicone oil constitute the only oil of the fatty phase, or are present in a predominant weight content with respect to the further oil that may be present in the fatty phase.

Preferably, the fatty phase also comprises at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin as lipophilic gelling agent.

Lipophilic gelling agent

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic gelling agent" denotes a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of the fatty phase according to the invention.

The lipophilic gelling agent is fat-soluble or lipodispersible.

Fatty acid esters of dextrins

The fatty acid esters of dextrins for use according to the invention may in particular be selected from monoesters or polyesters of dextrins with at least one fatty acid, which correspond to formula (X):

(X)

wherein:

n is an integer in the range from 3 to 150, in particular from 10 to 100 and preferably from 15 to 40;

radical R₁、R₂And R₃Represents a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R-CO-), wherein the group R is a straight chainA chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and still better still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the radical R₁、R₂Or R₃At least one of which is not a hydrogen atom.

In particular, R₁、R₂And R₃May represent hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-), wherein R is a hydrocarbon-based group as defined above, with the proviso that the group R₁、R₂Or R₃Is the same and is not hydrogen.

Radical R₁、R₂And R₃May all represent acyl groups (R-CO), which may be the same or different, and in particular the same.

The group R-CO-of the dextrin ester of formula (X) may in particular be selected from octanoyl, hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmitoyl (palmityl), stearoyl, eicosyl, docosanyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutanoyl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptyl, 2-ethylhexyl, isononyl, isodecyl, isotridecyl, isomyristyl, isopalmitoyl, isostearoyl, isohexyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoyl (palmitolyl), oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorboyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicinyl, arachidonyl and stearoyl groups, and mixtures thereof.

The radical R-CO is advantageously linear.

The group R-CO is preferably a palmitoyl group or a myristyl group, and even more preferably a palmitoyl group.

n is advantageously in the range 25-35, preferably 27-33 and more preferably equal to 30.

Preferably, at least one dextrin palmitate and/or at least one dextrin myristate is used as the fatty acid ester of dextrin. They may be used alone or as a mixture with other esters.

Advantageously, the fatty acid esters of dextrins have a degree of substitution of less than or equal to 2.5, in particular in the range from 1.5 to 2.5, based on one glucose unit. The weight average molecular weight of the dextrin ester may be in particular 10000-.

Dextrin esters are commercially available, in particular dextrin palmitate esters, for example commercially available from Chiba Flur Milling under the name Rheopearl TL2-OR OR Rheopearl KL2-OR, and from Chiba Flur Milling under the name Rheopearl KS; and dextrin myristate, commercially available, for example, from Chiba Flour Milling under the name rheoparrl MKL 2.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a mixture of fatty acid esters of dextrins having a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of one glucose unit and fatty acid esters of dextrins having a degree of substitution of more than 2 on the basis of one glucose unit will be used, as described in patent application FR 2843020.

According to one embodiment, the fatty acid esters of dextrins having a degree of substitution of less than 2, based on one glucose unit, advantageously correspond to the following formula (XI):

(XI)

wherein:

radical R₁、R₂And R₃Represents a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R-CO-), wherein the group R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and still better from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the group R₁、R₂Or R₃At least one of which is not a hydrogen atom.

n is an integer in the range from 3 to 150, in particular from 10 to 100 and preferably from 15 to 40.

The radical R-CO-of the dextrin ester of the formula (XI) can be chosen in particular from octanoyl, hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, eicosyl, docosanyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutanoyl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptyl, 2-ethylhexyl, isononyl, isodecyl, isotridecyl, isomyristyl, isopalmitoyl, isostearoyl, isohexyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorboyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punanoyl, arachidonyl and stearoyl radicals, and mixtures thereof.

The radical R-CO is advantageously linear. The group R-CO is preferably a palmitoyl group or a myristyl group, and even more preferably a palmitoyl group.

Preferably, fatty acid esters of dextrins with a degree of substitution of less than 2, based on one glucose unit, are used, so that the degree of substitution is less than 1.9, preferably less than 1.8 and more preferably between 1.5 and 1.7. Some of these dextrin esters are commercially available, in particular from Chiba FlourMilling company under the name Rheopearl TL.

The fatty acid ester of dextrin having a degree of substitution of less than 2 based on one glucose unit preferably has a weight average molecular weight of between 10000 and 30000, more preferably between 15000 and 20000. The weight average molecular weight was determined by gas chromatography using polystyrene calibration.

According to one embodiment, the fatty acid esters of dextrins having a degree of substitution greater than 2, based on one glucose unit, correspond to formula (XII):

(XII)

wherein:

group R'₁、R'₂And R'₃Which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen atoms and acyl groups (R ' -CO-), wherein the group R ' is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and still better still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the group R '₁、R'₂Or R'₃Is not a hydrogen atom;

R' and n may have the same meaning as R and n previously described for formula (XI).

Advantageously, the group R'₁、R'₂And R'₃Are identical, with the proviso that the radical R'₁、R'₂Or R'₃Is not a hydrogen atom.

Preferably, fatty acid esters of dextrins with a degree of substitution of more than 2, based on one glucose unit, are used, so that the degree of substitution is more than 2.1, preferably between 2.1 and 2.3.

The fatty acid ester of dextrin having a degree of substitution of more than 2 based on one glucose unit preferably has a weight average molecular weight of between 10000 and 30000, more preferably between 15000 and 20000. The weight average molecular weight was determined by gas chromatography using polystyrene calibration.

As an example of dextrin esters of the formula (XII) according to the invention, mention may be made of Rheopearl KL sold by Chiba FlourMilling.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the lipophilic gelling agent that can be used in the context of the present invention is chosen from fatty acid esters of dextrin, preferably dextrin palmitate and dextrin myristate.

The lipophilic gelling agent, if any, is present in an amount of from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

In a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent is present in an amount of at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

Preferably, the viscosity of the fatty phase free of the fatty acid esters of dextrins mentioned above is between 25 and 35 mPa-s at a temperature of 25 ℃.

Preferably, the viscosity of the fatty phase containing the fatty acid esters of dextrins mentioned above is between 40 and 50 mPas at a temperature of 25 ℃.

Cosmetic active agent

Depending on the end purpose, the two-phase composition may comprise a cosmetic active agent in one phase or the other, depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic character.

As cosmetic active agents that can be used in the two-phase composition of the invention (in particular when it is a skin care composition), examples that may be mentioned include enzymes; a flavonoid; a humectant; an anti-inflammatory agent; a vitamin; a depigmenting agent; an alpha-hydroxy acid; a retinoid; an antibacterial active agent; a tightening agent; a ceramide; essential oil; UV screening agents (or sunscreens); and mixtures thereof; and any active agent suitable for the ultimate purpose of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the aqueous phase comprises a plant extract, wherein the plant extract is present in an amount of active substance ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fat phase comprises vitamins and a vegetable extract, wherein the vitamins are present in an amount of active substance ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fat phase, and the vegetable extract is present in an amount of active substance ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 12% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fat phase.

UV screening agents may be present in the composition according to the invention, especially when the composition is intended for sun protection.

These screening agents may in particular be organic screening agents and they may be present in an amount of active substance ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.

As examples of UV-A-active organic screening agents and/or UV-B-active organic screening agents which may be added to the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of the derivatives carrying a sulphonic function, such as sulphone or sulphonate derivatives of benzylidenecamphor, benzophenone or phenylbenzimidazole, more particularly benzylidenecamphor derivatives, for example from the Chimex companyBenzene-1, 4-bis (3-methylenecamphor-10-sulfonic acid) manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX (INCI name: terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid), and 4' -sulfo-3-benzylidene camphor (INCI name: benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid), 2- [4- (camphormethylene) phenyl]Benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid sold under the name Eusolex 232 by the company Merck (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid); a para-aminobenzoic acid derivative; salicylic acid derivatives, such as ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan OS by Haarmann and Reimer; dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane sold by the company Hoffmann LaRoche, in particular under the trade name Parsol 1789; cinnamic acid derivatives, such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold by Hoffmann LaRoche, particularly under the tradename Parsol MCX;

,

' -Diphenyl acrylate derivatives, e.g. octocrylene sold under the trade name Uvinul N539 by BASF corporation (

-cyano-

,

2-ethylhexyl diphenylacrylate); benzophenone derivatives such as benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF, benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone sold under the trade name Uvinul M40 by BASF, benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name Uvinul MS40 by BASF; benzylidene camphor derivatives such as 4-methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the trade name Eusolex 6300 by Merck; phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, e.g. benzimidazole sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP by Haarmann and ReimerAn ester of oxazole; triazine derivatives such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (anisotriazine) sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by Ciba Geigy and ethylhexyl triazone sold under the trade name Uvinul T150 in particular by BASF; phenylbenzotriazole derivatives, such as cresoltrazol trisiloxane sold under the trade name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie; anthranilic acid derivatives, such as menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Haarmann and Reimer; imidazoline derivatives; a benzylidene malonate derivative; and mixtures thereof.

The amount of cosmetic active agent is readily adjusted by one skilled in the art based on the end use of the two-phase composition.

Auxiliary or additive agents

The compositions according to the invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, which will be in one phase or the other, depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, for example fragrances, preservatives and bactericides, opacifiers, dyes, softeners, buffers, electrolytes (for example sodium chloride) or pH regulators (for example citric acid or sodium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.

Preservatives which may be used include any of those commonly used in the art under consideration, such as parabens, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol, chlorhexidine gluconate and polyhexamethylene biguanide hydrochloride (CTFA name: polyaminopropyl biguanide).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the biphasic composition contains phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin as preservatives in the aqueous phase.

When present in a two-phase composition, the preservative typically comprises from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight and still more preferably from 0.5% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the aqueous phase comprises at least one aqueous phase opacifying agent.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aqueous phase opacifying agent" means any additive used to opacify the aqueous phase to which it is added, for example an additive which, when added to a transparent medium, results in a translucent to opaque medium.

The opacifying agent may be selected from alkyl celluloses, the alkyl residue of which contains between 1 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 1 and 3 carbon atoms, preferably ethyl cellulose.

When present in the two-phase composition, the opacifying agent typically comprises from 0.001 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably from 0.002 wt% to 1 wt%, and still more preferably from 0.003 wt% to 0.5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

Needless to say, the person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvants to be added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties inherently associated with the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not negatively affected by the envisaged addition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the two-phase composition for topical application according to the invention comprises:

a) an aqueous phase containing, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight of at least one polysaccharide chosen from: gellan gum, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof; and

b) a fatty phase comprising from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, of an oil chosen from: benzoic acid C₁₂-C₁₅Alkyl ester, C₂-C₈Tricarboxylic acids and C₂-C₈Optionally hydroxylated triesters of alcohols, and phenyl silicone oils without polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to the following formula (II):

(II)

wherein at least 3, at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent phenyl radicals and the remaining radicals R represent methyl radicals, and

3-8% by weight of at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin selected from monoesters or polyesters of dextrin with at least one fatty acid, which corresponds to formula (X):

(X)

wherein:

n is an integer in the range of 3 to 150;

radical R₁、R₂And R₃Represents a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R-CO-), wherein the group R-CO-is in particular selected from the group consisting of octanoyl, hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, eicosyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutanoyl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptyl, 2-ethylhexyl, isononyl, isodecyl, isotridecyl, isomyristyl, isopalmitoyl, isostearoyl, isohexyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorboyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punanoyl, arachidonyl and stearoyl groups, with the proviso that the group R-CO-is a group₁、R₂Or R₃At least one of which is not a hydrogen atom,

wherein the aqueous phase comprises a cosmetic active agent selected from plant extracts and/or the fatty phase comprises a cosmetic active agent selected from: vitamins, plant extracts and mixtures thereof;

wherein the aqueous phase and the fat phase are separated.

The two-phase composition described above can be conditioned in a known manner in a bottle having a single compartment. The user may then shake the bottle and then pour its contents onto the cotton pad.

In a preferred embodiment, the two-phase composition is contained in a packaging device comprising a container and a straw, wherein the aqueous phase is contained in the container and the fat phase is contained in the straw.

It is another object of the present invention to provide emulsion-type compositions which have an aesthetic appearance, such as a pearly appearance, while being stable and uniform over time.

It is also within the scope of the present invention that the two-phase composition according to the present invention may be shaken to form the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

Thus, according to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

a) a dispersed fatty phase containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin as lipophilic gelling agent; and

b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising at least one polysaccharide.

The dispersed fat phase may be formed from the fat phase defined for the two-phase composition.

The aqueous composition may be an aqueous phase as defined for a two-phase composition.

In particular, the fatty phase is in the form of droplets.

The oil droplets were visible by observing them (when) using the naked eye (bear eyes).

More particularly, the droplets have a volume median particle diameter Dv50 of from 0.01 mm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.05 mm to 5 mm.

Even more preferably, the volume median particle diameter Dv50 of the droplets is 0.1 mm.

The volume median Particle diameter Dv50 is a parameter for the Particle size distribution, meaning the maximum Particle diameter below which 50% of the sample volume is present (see a Basic Guide To Particle Characterization, page 10, published by Malvern Instruments Limited 2012).

The volume particle size Dv50 of oil droplets can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle sizer (e.g. MasterSizer 3000 machine from Malvern). The data were processed based on mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine the "effective" particle size in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in the publication "Light Scattering by Small Particles", chapter 9 and 10 (Wiley, New York, 1957) by Van de Hulst, h.c.

The composition according to the invention in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion has a pearly appearance.

Thus, according to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a kit comprising:

b) an aqueous phase composition comprising at least one polysaccharide;

The mixing may be performed by the user using the kit.

The definition for the fatty phase of the two-phase composition applies to the oil composition.

The definitions for the aqueous phase of the two-phase composition apply to the aqueous composition.

The kit according to the present invention may be used in packaging and dispensing devices as disclosed in, for example, WO2017/127992a1 and in filling assemblies as disclosed in WO201712993a 1.

For example, the assembly comprises a kit according to the invention and a packaging and dispensing device comprising a container and a straw, wherein the aqueous composition of the kit is contained in the container and the fat composition of the kit is contained in the straw.

Method and use

Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.

The two-phase composition according to the invention, the composition or kit in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, may be used for any topical application.

In particular, the two-phase composition, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or the kit according to the invention can be used in non-therapeutic processes, such as cosmetic processes for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing cosmetic products from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.

The present invention therefore also relates to a method for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from a keratin material, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, which comprises shaking together a two-phase composition as described above or an oil composition and an aqueous composition as described above to form an oil-in-water emulsion and applying this emulsion to the keratin material.

Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. In the case where the definitions of terms in the present specification conflict with meanings commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the definitions described herein should be applied.

Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximations that can vary depending upon the desired purpose.

The term "and/or" as used herein refers to one or all of the elements referred to.

The terms "between" and "ranging from" as used herein should be understood to include both the upper and lower limits.

The terms "comprising" and "comprises" as used herein each encompass both the presence of only the named element and the presence of other, unrecited elements in addition to the named element.

All percentages in this invention are by weight unless otherwise specified.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the compositions and methods according to the invention, but not to limit the scope of the invention in any way. The name of a compound is given in the form of a chemical name or INCI name.

Examples

Example 1:

the following two-phase compositions according to the invention were prepared.

A fatty phase was prepared having the following formulation (unless otherwise indicated, the contents are expressed as weight percentage of active substance):

Procedure: the ingredients of the fat phase were mixed cold.

An aqueous phase having the following formulation was prepared (unless otherwise indicated, the contents are expressed as weight percent of active substance):

Procedure: the ingredients of the aqueous phase were mixed cold.

A two-phase composition consisting of two separate phases is thus obtained.

The interface was observed before shaking: a sharp interface.

After shaking the two-phase composition according to the invention by hand, a stable and homogeneous pearl-like oil-in-water emulsion was formed and no phase separation was observed even after standing at room temperature for 3 months.

Following the same procedure, compositions having the following formulations were prepared.

Example 2:

the viscosity of the oil phase of each formulation was measured according to the aforementioned procedure.

The stability of the formulations prepared in example 1 was evaluated.

Inventive and comparative formulations were performed using a Binder oven (USA) by leaving them in the oven for 3 months at 25^oStability test at C for 3 months.

The photostability test was performed for 24 hours using ATLAC (AMETEK Measurement and Calibration technologies).

The inventive formulations have good stability at room temperature for 3 months.

The test results for the inventive and comparative formulations are listed below.

From the above results, it was observed that the inventive formulation according to the present invention showed good stability, a pearl-like appearance, had a stable and uniform distribution of visible oil droplets, and did not undergo phase separation even after standing at room temperature for 3 months, compared to the comparative formulation.

Claims

1. A two-phase composition for topical application comprising:

a) an aqueous phase containing at least one polysaccharide; and

wherein the aqueous phase is separated from the fat phase.

2. The two-phase composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty phase comprises at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin as lipophilic gelling agent.

3. The two-phase composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 95% by weight, preferably from 25% to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 40% to 90% by weight and still more preferably from 50% to 88% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.

4. Two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein at least one polysaccharide is chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan; gellan gum; agar; xanthan gum; alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan and mixtures thereof.

5. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the aqueous phase comprises gellan gum or a combination of gellan gum and xanthan gum.

6. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the polysaccharide is present in an amount of 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

7. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from C₂-C₈Tricarboxylic acids and C₂-C₈Optionally hydroxylated triester of alcohol and formula R₁COOR₂Wherein R is₁Represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue having 1 to 40 carbon atoms or an aromatic acid residue having 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and R₂Represents a hydrocarbon-based branch containing in particular 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R₁ + R₂>10。

8. The biphasic composition according to any one of claims 1-7, wherein the hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from the group consisting of trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl acetate,benzoic acid C₁₂-C₁₅Alkyl esters, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; alkyl or polyalkyl heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates, or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, and 2-octyldodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters.

9. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the at least one phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils without polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to the following formula (II):

(II)

wherein at least 3, at least 4 or at least 5 groups R represent phenyl groups and the remaining groups R represent methyl groups.

10. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the total weight of hydrocarbon-based oil and phenyl silicone oil is from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

11. The two-phase composition according to claim 2, wherein the fatty acid ester of dextrin is selected from monoesters or polyesters of dextrin with at least one fatty acid, which corresponds to formula (X):

(X)

wherein:

radical R₁、R₂And R₃Represents a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R-CO-), wherein the group R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and still better from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the group R₁、R₂Or R₃At least one of which is not a hydrogen atom.

12. The two-phase composition according to claim 11, wherein:

n is advantageously in the range from 25 to 35, preferably from 27 to 33, and better still equal to 30;

the group R-CO-is selected from the group consisting of octanoyl, hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, eicosyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutanoyl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptyl, 2-ethylhexyl, isononyl, isodecyl, isotridecyl, isomyristyl, isopalmitoyl, isostearoyl, isohexyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorboyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punanoyl, arachidonyl and stearoyl groups, and mixtures thereof; preferably, the group R-CO-is a palmitoyl group or a myristyl group, and even more preferably a palmitoyl group.

13. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 2 and 11 to 12, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent is present in an amount comprised between 1% and 15% by weight, preferably between 2% and 10% by weight and more preferably between 3% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

14. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, further comprising a cosmetic active agent in the aqueous phase and/or the fatty phase selected from: an enzyme; a flavonoid; a humectant; an anti-inflammatory agent; a vitamin; a depigmenting agent; an alpha-hydroxy acid; a retinoid; an antibacterial active agent; a tightening agent; a ceramide; essential oil; UV screeners, and mixtures thereof.

15. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, further comprising, in the aqueous phase and/or in the fatty phase, conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives selected from: fragrances, preservatives and bactericides, opacifiers, dyes, softeners, buffers, electrolytes, or pH adjusting agents, and mixtures thereof.

16. A two-phase composition for topical application comprising:

b) a fatty phase containing, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase:

70-90% by weight of an oil selected from the group consisting of: benzoic acid C₁₂-C₁₅Alkyl ester, C₂-C₈Tricarboxylic acids and C₂-C₈Optionally hydroxylated triesters of alcohols, and phenyl silicone oils without polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to the following formula (II):

(II)

3-8% by weight of at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin selected from monoesters or polyesters of dextrin and at least one fatty acid, which corresponds to formula (X):

(X)

wherein:

n is an integer in the range of 3 to 150;

wherein the aqueous phase comprises a cosmetic active selected from plant extracts, and/or the fatty phase comprises a cosmetic active selected from: vitamins, plant extracts and mixtures thereof;

wherein the aqueous phase is separated from the fat phase.

17. A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising at least one polysaccharide.

18. A composition according to claim 17, wherein the dispersed fat phase is in the form of droplets having a volume median particle diameter Dv50 of from 0.01 mm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.05 mm to 5 mm.

19. A kit, comprising:

b) an aqueous composition comprising at least one polysaccharide;

20. Method for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from a keratin material, such as the skin, in particular the face, lips and/or eyes, comprising shaking together a two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 or an oil composition according to claim 19 and an aqueous composition to form an oil-in-water emulsion, and applying the emulsion to the keratin material.

21. Process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from a keratin material, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising the application to the keratin material of a composition according to claim 17 or 18 in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.