CN105473184A - Two-phase composition comprising magnesium acetate - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a two-phase composition for topical application comprising separate aqueous and oily phases, and magnesium acetate, preferably in a weight ratio between the aqueous and oily phases of 10/90 to 90/10. The presence of magnesium acetate allows a good phase separation of the two phases to be obtained after shaking and avoids the formation of foam in the oil phase during shaking. The invention also relates to the use of this composition in the field of cosmetics, in particular for the removal, cleansing and/or care of the skin, lips and/or eyes, or for hair care.

Description

Two-phase composition comprising magnesium acetate

The present invention relates to a composition for topical application consisting of two separate phases, an aqueous phase and an oily phase, which emulsifies easily by shaking and undergoes rapid phase separation after shaking has ceased. The invention also relates to the use of said composition in cosmetics or dermatology, and in particular for removing make-up, cleansing and/or cleaning the skin (both bodily and facial), and in particular the lips and/or the eyes. or hair care, and/or for use in hair care.

Compositions of this type, consisting of two separate phases, especially an aqueous phase and an oily phase, which are separated at rest and which do not emulsify together, are often referred to as " two-phase composition". They differ from emulsions in that, when at rest, the two phases separate rather than emulsifying one phase in the other. Thus, two phases are separated by a single interface at rest, whereas in an emulsion one phase is dispersed in the other in the form of a large number of droplets, and the interface is thus multiple, usually with emulsifying surfactants and/or Emulsion polymers are used to stabilize these interfaces. The use of two-phase compositions requires prior shaking to form a temporary emulsion. The emulsion must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow uniform application of the two phases, but such that when at rest the two phases become rapidly separated and return to their original state, a phenomenon more commonly known as " phase separation".

Two-phase compositions have been described, for example, in documents EP0370856 and EP0603080, especially for eye make-up removal.

Rapid phase separation (or separation) of the two phases after application to them is one of the desirable qualities of a two-phase composition. In particular, obtaining a rapid phase separation is desirable for various reasons, not least because a poor separation of the two phases is considered unaesthetic by the user. Document EP0603080 describes the use of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium and especially benzalkonium chloride as phase separation agent for obtaining a rapid phase separation. Document EP1514534 also describes a two-phase composition containing sodium bicarbonate as phase separating agent. However, it is sought to diversify the types of molecules used as phase separation agents to make more diverse compositions available. However, it has proven difficult to find phase separation agents that can provide good phase separation without the formation of foam which occurs in the oil phase of a two-phase mixture during shaking. The formation of this foam discourages the user.

Therefore, there remains a need for a biphasic composition consisting of two separate, immiscible phases that undergoes rapid phase separation into two phases after shaking and temporarily and transiently forming an emulsion , without forming bubbles.

Surprisingly, the Applicant has found that the use of magnesium acetate makes it possible to obtain a biphasic composition of the desired quality, that is, it separates rapidly after use into two distinct phases, with no presence in the oil phase during shaking. Any foam formation occurs. Thus, the presence of magnesium acetate makes it possible to obtain a good phase separation of the two phases after shaking, while at the same time avoiding the formation of foam in the oil phase during shaking, even with very low concentrations of salt. Furthermore, this compound has the advantage of being very well tolerated, including when it is applied to the eye which is particularly sensitive to compounds which tend to be aggressive. Magnesium acetate does not have any irritation and can therefore be used advantageously in the field of cosmetics, and in particular in compositions for removing make-up from the eyes.

More specifically, the subject of the invention is a biphasic composition for topical application comprising separate aqueous and oily phases, and magnesium acetate.

Since the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, hair and scalp.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least separate aqueous and oily phases. The two phases are separated, that is, they are visible one above the other at rest. The two phases may or may not be colored.

Magnesium acetate is the magnesium salt (CH ₃ COO ⁻ ) ₂ Mg ²⁺ . The amount of magnesium acetate may be, for example, 0.001 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably 0.005 wt% to 1 wt%, still better 0.005 wt% to 0.5 wt% and even better still 0.005 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition to 0.2wt%.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the amount of magnesium acetate is less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In addition to magnesium acetate, other salts can be added, such as sodium chloride, which has no effect on phase separation, but which is used as an adjuvant in compositions for removing make-up from the eyes, so that the composition has a texture close to that of tears. osmotic pressure. The amount of salt(s) other than magnesium acetate may be, for example, 0 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.1 wt% to 2 wt%, and still better 0.5 wt% to 1 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition %.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of the aqueous phase and the oily phase is from 10/90 to 90/10, preferably from 25/75 to 90/10, even more preferably from 30/70 to 70/30 and still better 40/60 to 60/40. Thus, the aqueous phase generally represents 10 to 90 wt%, preferably 25 to 90 wt%, even more preferably 30 to 70 wt%, and still better still 40 to 60 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

This weight ratio is adjusted according to the desired cosmeticity and results in a composition with a freezing point of less than 4°C.

The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water. The water used may be sterile demineralized and/or floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden flower water, and/or natural spring or mineral water, such as: Vittel water, Vichy Basin Water, Uriage Water, Roche Posay Water, Bourboule Water, Enghien-les-Bains Water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains Water, Néris-les-Bains Water, Allevar-les-Bains Water, Digne Water, Maizières Water, Neyrac-les -Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, EauxBonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, ie water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc. that reconstitute the characteristics of spring water.

The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the compositions according to the invention may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additives. Water-soluble additives which may especially be mentioned are polyols. The term "polyol" is understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerol, glycols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose, xylose Alcohol, trehalose, xylose, mannose or rhamnose, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyhydric alcohol (one or more) is selected from glycerin, butanediol, 1,2-propanediol (propyleneglycol), caprylyl glycol, 1,3-propanediol (propanediol), di Propylene Glycol and Hexylene Glycol. More preferably, the polyol is glycerol.

The polyol may be present in a content of 0.1 wt% to 60 wt%, preferably 1 wt% to 50 wt%, still better 2 wt% to 30 wt%, and even better still 3 wt% to 20 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition. in the composition of the present invention.

Water-soluble additives that may also be mentioned include primary alcohols, ie alcohols containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. Ethanol is preferred. The alcohol may be present in an amount of, for example, less than or equal to 40% by weight and preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The addition of such alcohols may be especially suitable when the composition according to the invention is used as a product for the body or hair.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said aqueous phase comprises at least one aqueous phase opacifier.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aqueous phase opacifier" means any additive which renders the aqueous phase to which it is added opaque, for example an additive which, when added to a transparent medium, results in a translucent to opaque medium.

The clarity of a composition can be measured by its turbidity, and NTU (nephelometric turbidity units) is the unit used to measure the turbidity of a composition. Turbidity measurements can be performed eg using a Nephelometer model 2100P from Hach Company, cuvettes for measurements see AR397Acat24347-06. Measurements are performed at room temperature (20°C to 25°C). The turbidity of the compositions of the invention is generally from 2 to 300 NTU and preferably from 5 to 200 NTU.

For the purposes of the present invention, a composition is said to be transparent when its turbidity is less than or equal to 20 NTU. It is called translucent when its turbidity is 20 to 300 NTU. It is called opaque when its turbidity is greater than or equal to 300 NTU.

The opacifying agent(s) usable in the context of the present invention are selected from, for example, (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylcelluloses; latexes, for example based on styrene-based polymers or copolymers, or based on acrylic or Even cross-linked copolymers based on methacrylic acid and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylates; esters of polyols containing at least two carbon atoms (which are optionally oxyethylenated) and fatty acids; C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ Fatty acid alkanolamides and esters of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty acid alkanolamides.

The opacifying agent(s) may be selected from alkyl celluloses whose alkyl residues contain 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms, preferably ethyl cellulose.

Alkylcellulose(s) are cellulose alkyl ethers comprising chains of β-anhydroglucose units linked together via acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or some of which can react according to the following reaction:

RONa+C ₂ H ₅ Cl→ROC ₂ H ₅ +NaCl, wherein R represents a cellulose group.

Advantageously, the alkylcellulose(s) are selected from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose and propylcellulose.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose. It is cellulose ethyl ether.

Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would result in a degree of substitution of 3 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words an alkoxy content of 54.88%.

The ethylcellulose polymer used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably a polymer having a degree of substitution of ethoxy groups of 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising a content of 44% to 50% of ethoxy groups. .

According to a preferred mode, the alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, is used in the composition of the invention in the form of a dispersion of particles, such as latex or pseudolatex, dispersed in the aqueous phase. Techniques for preparing these latex dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

The product sold under the name Aquacoat ECD-30 by the company FMC Biopolymer (consisting of a dispersion of ethyl cellulose in water in a proportion of about 26.2 wt%, stabilized with sodium lauryl sulfate and cetyl alcohol) is suitable for use as ethyl cellulose. Aqueous dispersions based on cellulose are most particularly suitable.

The opacifying agent(s) may be selected from latex.

The latices that can be used in the context of the present invention can be nonionic or ionic, especially anionic.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "latex" denotes a colloidal dispersion of insoluble polymer particles in an aqueous or organic liquid phase, which is generally obtained by suspension or emulsion polymerization or copolymerization of monomers according to methods known from the prior art.

The aqueous dispersions which can be used according to the invention may originate from the condensation of monomer units, resulting in, for example, nonionic polymers such as polyesters, polyamides, polyurethanes or polyethers.

Mention may also be made of polystyrene, such as the product sold by the company Synthron under the name Modarez OS-197 and which is polystyrene in the form of a 40% emulsion in water.

When one or more latexes are anionic, they generally contain anionic functional groups provided by the polymerization or copolymerization of anionic monomers via common methods known to those skilled in the art, or by The binding of anionic radicals to the monomer(s) under consideration during the initiation of polymerization of said monomers is provided, or alternatively by the parallelization of these two synthetic methods, or alternatively by the use of The second method of reacting initiators is provided by introducing end groups through chain transfer reactions.

Methods using reaction initiators are described in particular in the article Preparation and Characterization of Chargestabilized Polymer Colloids in Polyelectrolytes and their applications, 51-69, by R.M. Fitch, published by D. Reider Publishing Company.

The latices which can be used in the context of the present invention can be obtained inter alia from the polymerization or copolymerization of various monomers such as styrene, butadiene, ethylene, propylene, vinyltoluene, vinyl propionate, ethylene Alcohol, Acrylonitrile, Chloroprene, Vinylidene Chloride, Vinyl Acetate, Urethane, Isoprene, Isobutylene, Vinyl Chloride and Acrylic or Methacrylic Acid, Vinylacetic Acid, Maleic Acid, Crotonic Acid or esters or amides of itaconic acid, vinyl ethers, vinylpyrrolidones or vinylimidazoles, either alone or in admixture with one or more of the following ion-generating monomers, said The ion-generating monomers are: acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, crotonic acid, p-styrenesulfonic acid, vinylsulfonic acid, 2-methacryloyloxyethanesulfonic acid, and 2-acrylamide Base-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

The latex can also be obtained by polymerization or copolymerization of the aforementioned ion-generating monomers.

The latex obtained according to the second above-mentioned method is obtained from the use of an initiator selected from redox systems, peroxides, perphosphates, percarbonates, persulfates, peroxidized organic acids ( such as peracetic acid), or persulfate-bisulfite-iron mixtures.

The functional monomers used in the case of chain transfer reactions are selected from organic thiocarbonic acids, such as thioglycolic acid.

Among the anionic latexes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the products sold under the following trade names: PrimalASE95, PrimalWL-91K, PrimalTR-934TK and PrimalHA-8 sold by the company Röhm&Haas, and containing 20% Acrylic aqueous emulsion to 50% solids; Appretan 680 sold by Clariant and it is a 50% dispersion of styrene/acrylic copolymer; AcrymulAM123R sold by Protex and it is a 45% aqueous dispersion of acrylic copolymer ; Lucidene 604 sold by MortonSalt, and it is an emulsion of styrene/acrylic acid copolymer; Syntran 5760CG, sold by Interpolymer Corporation, and it is an acrylate/ammonium methacrylate/styrene copolymer in the form of an aqueous dispersion; ChemigumLatex 6271, and it is a copolymer of carboxylated butadiene and acrylonitrile.

According to a particular embodiment, the latex that can be used in the context of the present invention is a styrene/acrylic acid copolymer.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the styrene/acrylic copolymer is in the form of particles as in an aqueous dispersion, ie as a stable dispersion in an aqueous medium. The copolymer particles are spherical or nearly spherical particles, which preferably have a number-average size of 0.1 to 5 μm.

The term "aqueous medium" herein means both a water-only medium and a medium comprising water and a water-soluble solvent such as a lower alcohol or glycol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Styrene/acrylic copolymers are obtained by polymerizing styrene with at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylates and methacrylates, the copolymers obtained being optionally crosslinked. In addition, the copolymer may or may not be neutralized with an inorganic base such as ammonia or an organic base.

As styrene/acrylic copolymer dispersions that can be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the company Röhm & Haas under the name Ropaque OP-96 (aqueous dispersion containing 31% copolymer neutralized with ammonia) solid), RopaqueOP-3000 (aqueous dispersion containing 37% copolymer) and Acudyne 290 (aqueous dispersion containing 40% copolymer), those sold by MortonSalt as Lucidene 604, which is a styrene/acrylic acid copolymer lotion. Mention may also be made of an aqueous mixture of styrene/sodium acrylate copolymer, sodium lauryl sulfate, potassium sorbate and polyethylene glycol (7OE) tridecyl ether (CTFA name trideceth-7), which Sold under the name Opacifier 680™ by the company Röhm &Haas; and a styrene/sodium phenylacetate copolymer in the form of a 40% aqueous emulsion sold under the name Opulyn 301 Opacifier by the company Röhm & Haas.

The one or more latices may also be selected from crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylates.

Methacrylic acid is preferably present in an amount of 20% to 80% by weight, more particularly 25% to 70% by weight and even more particularly 35% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer.

The alkyl acrylate is preferably present in an amount of 15 to 80 wt%, more particularly 25 to 75 wt% and even more particularly 40 to 65 wt%, relative to the total weight of the copolymer. It is chosen especially from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and butyl acrylate, and more particularly from ethyl acrylate.

These copolymers are partially or fully crosslinked with at least one standard crosslinking agent. The crosslinking agent is especially a polyunsaturated compound, especially an ethylenically polyunsaturated compound. These compounds are especially polyalkenylethers of sucrose or polyalcohols, diallyl phthalate, divinylbenzene, allyl (meth)acrylate, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate , Methylenebisacrylamide, trimethylolpropane tri(meth)acrylate, diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, (meth)acrylic acid Zinc, and castor oil or polyol derivatives made from unsaturated carboxylic acids.

As the crosslinking agent, unsaturated monomeric compounds containing reactive groups capable of reacting with unsaturation to form a crosslinked copolymer may also be used.

The content of crosslinking agent is generally 0.01 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.03 to 3 wt% and even more particularly 0.05 to 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the copolymer.

According to a particularly preferred form, the copolymers of the invention may especially be in the form of a dispersion in water. The number average size of the copolymer particles in the dispersion is usually 10 to 500 nm, preferably 20 to 200 nm and more preferably 50 to 150 nm.

These copolymers are described inter alia in patent application WO 01/76552.

A crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer manufactured and sold under the name Carbopol AquaSF-1 by the company Lubrizol will be used more particularly in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion.

The opacifying agent(s) may be selected from polyols containing at least two carbon atoms, optionally oxyethylenated, and esters of fatty acids.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty acid" denotes a carboxylic acid comprising a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 10 to 30 Carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 24 carbon atoms and still better 16 to 18 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based chain is an alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising one or more optionally conjugated ethylenically unsaturated moieties optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.

The polyol(s) preferably contain 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and optionally an average of 2 to 15 mol of ethylene oxide.

Esters of polyols containing at least two carbon atoms (which are optionally oxyethylenated) and fatty acids may be chosen especially from monostearate and distearate of ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol and polyglycerol Fatty acid esters, and mono- and dipalmitates of ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol, and polyglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

Esters of polyethylene glycol and polyglycerol contain 2 to 150 and preferably 2 to 15 ethylene glycol or glycerol groups.

Preference is given to using ethylene glycol monostearate and distearate, diethylene glycol monostearate and distearate, triethylene glycol monostearate and distearate, ethyl Glycol monopalmitate and dipalmitate, or glyceryl monopalmitate and dipalmitate.

Ethylene glycol distearate, sold for example under the name Tegin BL315 by the company Evonik-Goldschmidt, can be used. Mention may also be made of ethylene glycol palmitate sold under the name Lanol PEcailles by the company SEPPIC.

The C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty acid alkanolamides may be selected from fatty acid alkanolamides in which the alkanolamine-based moiety is C ₁ -C ₄ . It should be noted that the alkanolamines from which the compounds of this class are derived may be monoethanolamine or diethanolamine. Examples of compounds of this class which are suitable for use include stearic monoethanolamide, stearic diethanolamide, stearic monoisopropanolamide and stearic monoethanolamide stearate, among others.

C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty acid alkanolamides are selected from C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkanols in which the C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ group is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ esters of amides. Examples of such compounds that may be mentioned include distearatestearamidediethanolamide and stearasteearamide monoethanolamide, and are sold more particularly under the name Cerasynt D by the company ISP The product.

According to a particular embodiment, the opacifying agent(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from latexes. According to a preferred embodiment, the one or more latices are selected from styrene-based polymers or copolymers, or cross-linked copolymers of methacrylic acid and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylates, such as defined previously Those ones. Even more preferably, the one or more latexes are selected from styrene-based polymers or copolymers.

When the opacifying agent(s) is present in the composition, it generally accounts for from 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably from 0.05 wt% to 1 wt%, and still better from 0.05 wt% to the total weight of the aqueous phase. 0.5wt%.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the nature and amount of the opacifying agent(s) are chosen such that the composition according to the invention is opaque, ie such that its turbidity value is greater than or equal to 300 NTU.

According to a preferred embodiment, the opacifying agent(s) are selected from styrene-based polymers or copolymers and their concentration is between 0.01% and 5%.

The oil phase generally represents 10 to 90 wt%, preferably 20 to 75 wt%, even more preferably 30 to 70 wt% and still better 40 to 60 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oily phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more oils which may be selected from hydrocarbon-based, mineral, vegetable and synthetic oils, or alternatively silicone oils. It may also contain fat-soluble or fat-dispersible additives.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil substantially formed or even composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms; said oil may contain esters, ethers, amines or amide groups.

As hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

- synthetic esters and ethers, especially esters and ethers of fatty acids, such as oils of formula R ¹ COOR ² and R ¹ OR ² , wherein R ¹ represents a fatty acid residue containing 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R ² represents a residue containing 3 to 29 carbon atoms Branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chains of 30 carbon atoms, such as purcellinoil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, palmitic acid 2-Ethylhexyl, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isolactate Stearyl alcohol esters, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and enanthate of fatty alcohols, caprylic acid esters and caprates; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dicaprylate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate;

- Hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as perhydrosqualene, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, or alternatively, such as sunflower oil, corn oil , soybean oil, marrow oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic acid/ Capric triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter, mangosteen seed oil and argan oil;

- volatile or non-volatile, linear or branched chain hydrocarbons and their derivatives of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid petrolatum and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam® oil; C ₈ -C ₁₆ branched or isoalkanes ( Also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, such as isoparaffins sold under the trade name Isopar by the company Exxon Chemical or oils sold under the trade name Permethyl by the company Presperse; and mixtures thereof ;

- linear alkanes, especially of vegetable origin, preferably comprising 7 to 14 carbon atoms;

- fatty alcohols, which are liquid at room temperature and contain 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol alcohol or oleyl alcohol.

The term "silicone oil" denotes an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially Si-O groups.

The silicone oil(s) can be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "volatile" refers to a compound that evaporates in less than 1 hour on contact with the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at room temperature, especially have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10 ⁻³ to 300 mmHg), preferably 1.3 Pa to Vapor pressure of 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferably 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

Examples of volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include: Cyclomethicone (INCI name: Cyclomethicone) such as Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Octamethylcyclomethicone Tetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; linear polysiloxanes such as heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, Hexamethyldisiloxane, Octamethyltrisiloxane, Decamethyltetrasiloxane and Dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

Preferably, the volatile silicone oil is selected from cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane.

Non-volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include, for example, polymethicones, especially PDMS, and phenylmethicones such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, Diphenyldimethicone, Diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, 2- 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amount of silicone oil(s) is less than 80 wt%, and preferably less than 20 wt%, relative to the total weight of the oil phase.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the oil(s) are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils. According to a preferred embodiment, the oil(s) are selected from fatty acid esters (e.g. isopropyl palmitate), fatty alcohol ethers, mineral oils (e.g. liquid petrolatum), fatty alcohols and liquid fatty acids which are liquid at room temperature triglycerides. Preferably, the oil(s) are selected from fatty acid esters such as isopropyl palmitate, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, and liquid fatty acid triglycerides.

The oil may optionally consist of volatile oils only.

The two-phase composition according to the invention may optionally contain one or more surfactants in one or the other phase, especially when the composition is used as a make-up removal or cleansing composition, because surface-active The presence of the agent makes it possible to obtain both good makeup removal for makeup compositions (and especially mascara) and freedom from a greasy feeling during makeup removal. However, the compositions of the present invention may also be free of surfactants, and if present, the amount of surfactant is such that the composition remains in the form of two separate phases at rest rather than in the form of an emulsion.

When the composition of the invention contains a surfactant, it may be anionic, nonionic or amphoteric, but preferably it is nonionic, and preferably it is present in the aqueous phase of the composition.

The amount of surfactant(s) as active material may be, for example, from 0.001 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably from 0.002 wt% to 1 wt%, and still better from 0.01 wt% to 0.5wt%.

Among the nonionic surfactants, those which are particularly preferred are:

- polyoxyethylated fatty esters of sorbitol, such as the product sold under the name Tween 20 by the company ICI;

- condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, such as those sold under the name Synperonic PE by the company ICI, and in particular those with entries L31, L64, F38, F88, L92, P103, F108 and F127;

- Alkyl polyglycosides, for example those having the following general formula (I):

RO-(G) _x (I)

wherein R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group containing 6-30 carbon atoms, G represents a reducing sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and x is a value from 1 to 15;

- and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, when the composition contains surfactants, it contains at least one nonionic surfactant and preferably at least one alkyl polyglycoside.

The alkyl polyglycosides preferably used in the compositions according to the invention are compounds of formula (I), in which R more particularly represents an alkyl group comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, and x is a value from 1 to 4 and more particularly from 1 to 3. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkyl polyglucoside used in the composition of the invention is an alkyl polyglucoside, i.e. a compound of formula (I), wherein G represents glucose and x is a value from 1.2 to 3 . Examples of alkyl polyglucosides that may be mentioned include: decyl glucoside (alkyl C9/C11-polyglucoside (1.4)), such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10 by the company KaoChemicals, Plantaren 2000UP and Products sold by Plantacare 2000UP, and by the company SEPPIC under the name Oramix NS10; octyl/decyl glucoside, such as that sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Oramix CG110, or by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD70; lauryl glucoside, such as by Henkel Products marketed by the companies under the names Plantaren 1200N and Plantacare 1200; coco-glucosides such as those sold by the company Henkel under the name Plantacare 818/UP; and mixtures thereof.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain conventional cosmetic auxiliaries or additives, which will be in one or the other phase according to their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, such as fragrances, preservatives and bactericides, dyes, Emollients, buffers, humectants, UV-screening agents (or sunscreens), electrolytes (such as sodium chloride as described above), or pH adjusters (such as citric acid or sodium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.

Preservatives that can be used include any preservatives commonly used in the field under consideration, such as parabens, phenoxyethanol, chlorhexidine gluconate and polyhexamethylene biguanide hydrochloride (CTFA name: poly aminopropyl biguanide). According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said composition contains polyhexamethylene biguanide hydrochloride, alone or in admixture with other preservatives.

Examples of fungicides that can be used are glyceryl mono(C ₃ -C ₉ ) alkyl or (C ₃ -C ₉ ) alkenyl ethers, the manufacture of which is described in the literature, especially in E. Baer, HOL Fischer-J. Biol. Chem. 140-397-1941. Among these glyceryl mono(C ₃ -C ₉ ) alkyl or (C ₃ -C ₉ ) alkenyl ethers, 3-[(2-ethylhexyl)oxy]-1,2-propanediol, 3 -[(heptyl)oxy]-1,2-propanediol, 3-[(octyl)oxy]-1,2-propanediol and 3-[(allyl)oxy]-1,2-propanediol . A more particularly preferred glyceryl mono(C ₃ -C ₉ )alkyl ether according to the invention is 3-[(2-ethylhexyl)oxy]-1,2-propanediol, which is commercially available from the company Schulke & Mayr G.mbH as Marketed under the name SensivaSC50 (INCI name: Ethylhexylglycerin).

Among the emollients, mention may in particular be made of allantoin and bisabolol, plankton and certain plant extracts, such as rose extract and sweet clover extract.

The active agent(s) may be present depending on the ultimate purpose of the composition. As active agents that may be used in the compositions of the invention, especially when said compositions are skin care compositions, examples that may be mentioned include enzymes (such as lactoperoxidase, lipase, protease, phospholipase, cellulase); flavonoids such as isoflavones; wetting agents such as protein hydrolysates; sodium hyaluronate; anti-inflammatory agents; oligomeric proanthocyanidins; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; Salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; cortisol; melatonin; algae, fungi, plants , yeast, bacterial extracts; steroids; antibacterial active agents, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-tri Chlordiphenylurea (or triclocarban) and the acids described above, and especially salicylic acid and its derivatives; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; and mixtures thereof; Any active agent that is the ultimate purpose of the composition.

UV-screening agents may be present in the compositions according to the invention, especially when they are intended for protection against the sun. These screening agents may especially be organic screening agents, and they may be active materials in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt % to 20 wt %, preferably from 0.1 wt % to 15 wt % and still better still from 0.2 wt % to 10 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition The amount of material present.

As examples of UV-A-active and/or UV-B-active organic screening agents that may be added to the compositions of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include benzylidene camphor, benzophenone or phenylbenzimidazole derivatives with sulfonic acid functional groups, such as sulfone or sulfonate/salt derivatives, more particularly benzylidene camphor derivatives, such as benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylenecamphor-10-sulfonic acid) (INCI name: terexylylenedicamphorsulfonic acid), which is manufactured by Chimex under the name MexorylSX, and 4'-sulfo-3-benzylidenecamphor (INCI name: benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid ), manufactured by the company Chimex under the name Mexoryl SL, 2-[4-(camphormethylene)phenyl]benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid) sold under the name Eusolex 232 by the company Merck; derivatives of p-aminobenzoic acid; derivatives of salicylic acid such as ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the trade name NeoHeliopan OS by Haarmann and Reimer; derivatives of dibenzoylmethane Cinnamic acid derivatives, such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, sold especially under the trade name Parsol MCX by HoffmannLaRoche ; β,β'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, such as octocrylene (α-cyano-β,β-diphenylacrylate 2-ethylhexyl), which is sold under the trade name Uvinul N539 by the company BASF benzophenone derivatives, such as benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul400 by BASF, benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name UvinulD50 by BASF, benzophenone-3 sold under the trade name UvinulM40 by BASF or Oxybenzone, benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name Uvinul MS40 by BASF; benzylidene camphor derivatives such as 4-methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the trade name Eusolex 6300 by Merck; phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, For example benzimidazilate sold under the trade name NeoHeliopan AP by Haarmann and Reimer, triazine derivatives such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol anisotriazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by CibaGeigy and especially by BASF Ethylhexyltriazone sold under the trade name Uvinul T150; phenylbenzotriazole derivatives such as trisiloxane sold under the trade name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie; anthranilic acid derivatives such as sold under the trade name Silatrizole by Haarmann and Reimer Ortho Amino sold under the name NeoHeliopanMA Menthyl Benzoate; Imidazoline Derivatives; Benzylidene Malonate Derivatives; and Mixtures thereof.

The compositions described above may be conditioned in a known manner in bottles having a single compartment. The user must then shake the bottle before pouring its contents onto the lint pad. It is also conceivable to introduce the two phases of the composition into two separate compartments of the same bottle, providing a system for mixing them together upon dispensing. Such devices are described, for example, in documents EP-A-497256 and FR-A-2697233.

The compositions according to the invention can be used for any topical application and can especially constitute cosmetic or dermatological compositions. They can be used in particular for caring, cleansing and/or making-up removal for the skin, lips and/or eyes, and as hair care compositions.

A subject of the present invention is also the cosmetic use of the cosmetic composition defined above for the care of the skin, lips and/or eyes, make-up removal and/or cleansing, and/or hair care.

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic method for removing, cleaning and/or caring for the skin, lips and/or eyes, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the skin, lips and/or eyes .

A subject of the present invention is also a hair care cosmetic method, characterized in that the cosmetic composition defined above is applied to the hair.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, said composition is a composition for caring for body and/or facial skin.

The following examples of compositions according to the invention are given by way of illustration without limitation. Amounts therein are given in weight percent of starting material unless otherwise mentioned. Give the name of the compound as chemical name or INCI name.

Example

Example 1:

The following compositions were prepared.

Fat phase (20%) :

Isopropyl Palmitate 40%

2-Octyldodecanol 40%

Vaseline 20%

Step : Mix the oil cold

Water Phase (80%):

Appropriate amount of water

Tetrasodium EDTA 0.2%

Preservatives (one or more) 0.5%

Panthenol 0.005%

Glycerin 0.5%

Magnesium acetate tetrahydrate 0.01%

Citric acid monohydrate 0.005%

Procedure: The dissolution and dispersion of the starting materials of the aqueous phase is carried out without heating at all.

A biphasic composition is thus obtained consisting of two separate immiscible phases which, after shaking and forming an emulsion temporarily and briefly, undergoes rapid phase separation into two phases without foam formation.

Example 2:

The following compositions were prepared.

Fat phase (20%) :

Isopropyl Palmitate 20%

2-Octyldodecanol 40%

Dioctyl ether 20%

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (60/40) 10%

Vaseline 10%

Step : Mix the oil cold

Water Phase (80%) :

Procedure: The process is carried out without heating at all, starting material A is dissolved and B is dispersed in A, followed by the addition of dilute magnesium acetate before pH adjustment.

A biphasic composition is thus obtained consisting of two separate immiscible phases which, after shaking and forming an emulsion temporarily and briefly, undergoes rapid phase separation into two phases without foam formation.

Example 3: Two-phase mixture without opacifying agent

.

Observe the interface after oscillation: obvious interface

Observe the foam: no residual foam after shaking

Observe layering speed: fast layering (minutes)

Comparative Example 4: Two-phase mixture with opacifying agent

.

Observe the interface after oscillation: obvious interface

Observe the foam: no residual foam after shaking

Observe layering speed: fast layering (minutes)

.

When trisodium citrate was used instead of magnesium acetate, a composition containing residual foam in the fatty phase with a lower rate of delamination and a non-planar interface was obtained.

When sodium bicarbonate was substituted for magnesium acetate, compositions containing fine residual foam in the fatty phase with similar delamination rates and non-planar interfaces were obtained.

Example 5: Two-phase mixture with opacifier

Fat phase (20%):

Isopropyl Palmitate 30%

2-Octyldodecanol 50%

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (60/40) 20%

Step: Mix the oil cold

Water Phase (80%):

A biphasic composition is thus obtained consisting of two separate immiscible phases which, after shaking and forming an emulsion temporarily and briefly, undergoes rapid phase separation into two phases without foam formation.

Claims (15)

Claims 1. A biphasic composition for topical application comprising separate aqueous and oily phases, and magnesium acetate. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the water phase and the oil phase is from 10/90 to 90/10, preferably from 25/75 to 90/10, even more preferably from 30/70 to 70/30, and also More preferably 40/60 to 60/40. 3. Composition according to one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the amount of magnesium acetate is from 0.001 wt% to 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably less than or equal to 0.5 wt%. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the oil phase comprises one or more oils selected from hydrocarbon-based oils, mineral oils, vegetable oils and synthetic oils, or alternatively silicone oils. 5. Composition according to claim 4, wherein the one or more oils are selected from hydrocarbon based oils. 6. Composition according to claim 5, wherein said one or more oils are selected from fatty acid esters such as isopropyl palmitate, fatty alcohol ethers, mineral oils such as liquid petrolatum, fatty alcohols and liquid fatty acids which are liquid at room temperature Triglycerides, preferably fatty acid esters such as isopropyl palmitate, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, and liquid fatty acid triglycerides. 7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 comprising at least one surfactant selected from nonionic surfactants. 8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein one or more surfactants are present in an amount of 0.001 wt % to 5 wt %, preferably 0.002 wt % to 1 wt %, and better still 0.01 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition present in amounts of up to 0.5 wt%. 9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 comprising at least one aqueous phase opacifier. 10. Composition according to claim 9, wherein the one or more opacifying agents are selected from (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl celluloses; latexes such as styrene-based polymers or copolymers or methacrylic acid and acrylic acid Cross-linked copolymers of C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl esters; esters of optionally oxyethylenated polyols and fatty acids containing at least two carbon atoms; C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty acid alkanolamides and C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ esters of fatty acid alkanolamides. 11. The composition according to claim 10, wherein one or more opacifying agents are selected from latexes, preferably from styrene-based polymers or copolymers and cross-linked methacrylic acid and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylates. joint copolymer. 12. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the one or more opacifying agents are selected from styrene-based polymers or copolymers. 13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein one or more opacifying agents represent 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably 0.05 wt% to 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, and also More preferably, it is 0.05wt% to 0.5wt%. 14. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for the care of the skin, lips and/or eyes, make-up removal and/or cleansing and/or for hair care, preferably for skin care . 15. Cosmetic method for removing, cleaning and/or caring, preferably for skin care, of the skin, lips and/or eyes, wherein a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 is applied to the skin, lips and/or eye area.