CN111671682B - 一种彩妆组合物及含有该组合物的化妆品 - Google Patents
一种彩妆组合物及含有该组合物的化妆品 Download PDFInfo
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- CN111671682B CN111671682B CN202010741677.6A CN202010741677A CN111671682B CN 111671682 B CN111671682 B CN 111671682B CN 202010741677 A CN202010741677 A CN 202010741677A CN 111671682 B CN111671682 B CN 111671682B
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- emulsifier
- cosmetic composition
- color cosmetic
- thickener
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种彩妆组合物及含有该组合物的化妆品，本发明的彩妆组合物包含A相、B相、C相、D相，其中，按质量百分数计：A相包含粘合剂4‑18％，乳化剂2‑16％，抗结块剂1‑10％，防腐剂0.1‑1.2％；B相包含保湿剂1‑12％，皮肤调理剂0.05‑2％，增稠剂0.02‑0.6％，防腐剂0.1‑1.0％，水适量；C相为着色剂15‑60％；D相为亲水性增稠剂0.05‑0.5％。该彩妆组合物能够制备出纹理清晰的立体造型彩妆产品，属于化妆品技术领域。
Description
技术领域
本发明公开了一种彩妆组合物，具体地说，是一种可以制备成立体造型的彩妆粉及其制备方法，属于化妆品技术领域。
背景技术
近年来，随着人们对于参加社交活动时形象的关注度越来越高，人们对于彩妆的需求量也急剧增加。越来越多的消费者通过使用彩妆产品对其面部进行修饰，从而达到美化效果。彩妆粉是彩妆产品中以粉类为主要原料的产品，包括粉饼、眼影、腮红、高光等。这种平整表面的外观在外形上越来越难引起消费者关注。
现有常用的彩妆产品都是制成散粉，再用铝盘做底托，铝模铜片压制成型。这种成型方式不能做出立体造型、纹路清晰的粉块，在产品外观上，通常呈现出来的是平整表面。此外，压制成型的彩妆在使用上不够丝滑、细腻、贴肤，容易飞粉。
因此，开发一种具有立体形状、使用效果优异的彩妆产品就显得很有必要。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种彩妆组合物，该组合物通过制备成具有流动性的乳状后灌入硅胶模，冷却脱模后可以得到立体造型的彩妆产品。由于料体为具有流动性的乳状，可以通过选择模具而制备出不同立体造型的彩妆产品。同时也更容易在产品中根据需求添加保湿、美白等皮肤调理活性成分，比干粉类产品粉质细腻、柔滑、清透贴肤，兼具保湿、美白等功效。
为此，本发明提供的第一个技术方案是这样的：
一种彩妆组合物，所述彩妆组合物包含A相、B相、C相、D相，按质量百分数计：
A相包含粘合剂4-18％，乳化剂2-16％，抗结块剂1-10％，防腐剂0.1-1.2％；
B相包含保湿剂1-12％，皮肤调理剂0.05-2％，增稠剂0.02-0.6％，防腐剂0.1-1.0％，水适量；
C相为着色剂15-60％；
D相为亲水性增稠剂0.05-0.5％。
本发明技术方案中，A相粘合剂优选轻密度油脂，例如可以是鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯、鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯、异十三醇异壬酸酯、异壬酸异壬酯、角鲨烷、氢化聚异丁烯、氢化聚癸烯、丁二醇二辛酸/二癸酸酯等，优选鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯。
本发明中，为了使着色剂跟粘合剂、抗结块剂等相容性更好，乳化剂可将主乳化剂和助乳化剂搭配使用，协同乳化。
本发明中，主乳化剂可以选自聚山梨醇酯-80、聚山梨醇酯-20、PEG-20失水山梨醇油酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、甘油硬脂酸酯//PEG-100硬脂酸酯、山梨坦硬脂酸酯//蔗糖椰油酸酯中一种。
本发明中的助乳化剂可以选自C12-20酸PEG-8酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇、C14-22醇中一种。在本发明中，助乳化剂的选择不仅需要考虑具有较好的助乳化效果，同时能够作为油脂对肤感进行调节。
本发明中的助乳化剂优选C12-20酸PEG-8酯，其乳化性能优异、稳定性佳，与皮肤作用亲和力强。由于C12-20酸PEG-8酯在常温下是固态，当升高至一定温度后，其在剪切力作用下会融化，停止剪切恢复常温后又会恢复凝固状态，能够乳化水、甘油、透明质酸等成分。
本发明中，乳化剂中主乳化剂与助乳化剂的质量比优选3:5。
本发明中，A相中的抗结块剂可以选自HDI/三羟甲基己基内酯交联聚合物//硅石、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、锦纶-12、硅石、甲基丙烯酸甲酯交联聚合物中任意一种，优选HDI/三羟甲基己基内酯交联聚合物//硅石。HDI/三羟甲基己基内酯交联聚合物//硅石采购于科耐欧贸易(上海)有限公司，是一种高分子的粉体，调节粉体的肤感。
本发明中，通过抗结块剂、乳化剂、粘合剂等合理组配，制备出的乳状膏体在溶剂烘干后，易脱模且成型后不开裂，上色好。
此外，当常规的液态灌装配方中的云母、滑石、硅石、珠光剂其他着色剂含量较高时，很容易在烤干脱模后粘模。
本发明中，通过选择合适的增稠剂，如皱波角叉菜提取物、黄原胶、刺槐果胶中任意两种的组合，能够使得脱模后的产品不粘模，同时，合理的增稠剂配比，还可以保证产品的韧性，防止产品成型后太脆易碎。更优选地，在本发明中还可以加入质量比为0.05-0.5％的D相亲水性增稠剂，如氯化钾、氯化钠、氯化钙、磷酸氢钙中一种。
当配方中的着色剂含量较高时，通过加入一定比例的皱波角叉菜提取物与刺槐果胶混合物，结合亲水性增稠剂等成胶离子，在40-70℃下成凝胶状，更好地帮助产品从硅胶模具中脱出，达到类似油蜡基唇膏类的脱模不粘模效果，同时能够保证一定的韧性不易碎。其中，优选增稠剂为质量比为3:2的皱波角叉菜提取物与刺槐果胶的组合。
本发明中，A相和B相中的防腐剂选自辛甘醇、乙基己基甘油、羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯、苯甲醇、苯甲酸钠、苯氧乙醇、甘油辛酸酯中一种或几种。
本发明中，B相中的保湿剂可选自甘油、丙二醇、丁二醇中一种或几种。
本发明中，B相中的皮肤调理剂选自银耳子实体提取物、透明质酸钠、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸、α-熊果苷、尿囊素、海藻糖、PCA钠中一种或几种。
本发明中，C相中的着色剂可以选自CI 77019、CI 77019//CI 77891//氧化锡、CI77499、CI 77491、CI 15850、CI 45410等中的一种或组合。
本发明的另一个技术方案是提供一种化妆品，该化妆品通过如下方法制备：
(1)将A相中的粘合剂、乳化剂、抗结块剂、防腐剂在70-85℃混合搅拌均匀，保温；
(2)将B相中的保湿剂、皮肤调理剂、增稠剂、防腐剂、水在70-85℃混合搅拌均匀，保温；
(3)将D相加入B相中在70-85℃搅拌均匀；
(4)将步骤(1)中的A相混合物加入到步骤(3)的BD相混合物料中，搅拌均匀；
(5)将C相加入到步骤(4)中的混合物料中，搅拌均匀；
(6)把ABCD的混合物物料灌入硅胶模型中，冷却至-10-20℃后脱模，在50-80℃下烤干8-24h后即成型，包装。
与现有技术相比，本发明提供的技术方案具有如下技术优点：
(1)本发明通过将彩妆组合物制备成具有流动性的乳液状后灌入硅胶模具中，冷却脱模后能够制备出不同立体造型的彩妆产品。由于产品在制备时为乳液状，可加入保湿、美白等活性成分，比传统的压制成型彩妆产品具有更好的皮肤调理效果。本发明组合物制备的彩妆产品粉质细腻、柔滑、清透贴肤且不易飞粉。
(2)本发明组合物中，通过抗结块剂、乳化剂、粘合剂、增稠剂等合理组配，制备出的乳状料体在溶剂烘干后，易脱模并且成型后不开裂、纹理清晰、易上色。
(3)本发明的技术方案中，通过选择合适的增稠剂，能够在着色剂含量较高时，帮助料体脱模，达到类似油蜡基唇膏类的脱模不粘模效果。
附图说明
图1为本发明实施例4中的彩妆组合物产品
具体实施方式
下面对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述，显然，所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明的一部分实施例，而不是全部实施例。对于未特别注明的工艺参数或者条件，可参照常规技术进行。本发明所用的原料可通过自制获得或商业渠道购买。
表1为本发明技术方案中的部分实施例，但本发明的实施方式不限于此。
表1实施例1-9的组成及含量
在上述实施例中，保湿剂为甘油，还可以选自丙二醇、丁二醇中任意一种或者他们之间的组合。A相和B相中的防腐剂选自苯甲酸钠，还可以选自辛甘醇、乙基己基甘油、羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯、苯甲醇、苯氧乙醇、甘油辛酸酯中一种或几种。皮肤调理剂选自海藻糖，还可以选自银耳子实体提取物、透明质酸钠、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸、α-熊果苷、尿囊素、PCA钠中一种或几种。着色剂选自CI 77019，还可以选自CI 77019//CI 77891//氧化锡、CI 77499、CI 77491、CI 15850、CI 45410等中的一种或组合。亲水性增稠剂选自氯化钾，还可以选自氯化钠、氯化钙、磷酸氢钙中一种。
本发明中的实施例可基于上述成分选择，上述保湿剂、防腐剂、皮肤调理剂、着色剂的成分选择对于产品的脱模效果、肤感、成型后的纹理情况等影响不大。
含实施例1-9的彩妆组合物化妆品主要通过如下方法制备：
(1)将A相中的粘合剂、乳化剂、抗结块剂、防腐剂在70-85℃(优选80℃)混合搅拌均匀，保温；
(2)将B相中的保湿剂、皮肤调理剂、增稠剂、防腐剂、水在70-85℃(优选80℃)混合搅拌均匀，保温；
(3)将D相加入B相中在70-85℃(优选80℃)搅拌均匀；
(4)将步骤(1)中的A相混合物加入到步骤(3)的BD相混合物料中，搅拌均匀；
(5)将C相加入到步骤(4)中的混合物料中，搅拌均匀；
(6)把ABCD的混合物物料灌入硅胶模型中，冷却至-10-20℃(优选10℃)后脱模，在50-80℃(优选60℃)下烤干8-24h(优选15h)后即成型，包装。
为了更好地体现本发明技术方案的优异性，针对本发明还设置了如下对比例1-7，如表2所示。
其中，对比例1主要与实施例1对比，区别在于将鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯用等量的季戊四醇四(乙基己酸)酯代替。
对比例2主要与实施例2对比，区别在于对比例2中乳化剂仅含有与实施例2乳化剂总量相当的助乳化剂鲸蜡硬脂醇。
对比例3主要与实施例3对比，区别在于对比例3中抗结块剂含量不在本发明的保护范围内。
对比例4主要与实施例4对比，区别在于对比例4中乳化剂仅含有实施例4乳化剂总量相当的主乳化剂聚山梨醇酯-80。
对比例5主要与实施例5对比，区别在于对比例5中增稠剂仅含有实施例5增稠剂总量相当的皱波角叉菜提取物。
对比例6主要与实施例5对比，区别在于对比例6中增稠剂仅含有实施例5增稠剂总量相当的刺槐果胶。
对比例7主要与实施例5对比，区别在于对比例7中增稠剂由皱波角叉菜提取物与结冷胶组成。
表2对比例1-7的组成及含量
其中，含对比例1-7的彩妆组合物化妆品主要通过如下方法制备：
(1)将A相中的粘合剂、乳化剂、抗结块剂、防腐剂在70-85℃(优选80℃)混合搅拌均匀，保温；
(2)将B相中的保湿剂、皮肤调理剂、增稠剂、防腐剂、水在70-85℃(优选80℃)混合搅拌均匀，保温；
(3)将D相加入B相中在70-85℃(优选80℃)搅拌均匀；
(4)将步骤(1)中的A相混合物加入到步骤(3)的BD相混合物料中，搅拌均匀；
(5)将C相加入到步骤(4)中的混合物料中，搅拌均匀；
(6)把ABCD的混合物物料灌入硅胶模型中，冷却至-10-20℃(优选10℃)后脱模，在50-80℃(优选60℃)下烤干8-24h(优选15h)后即成型，包装。
1.产品性能、外观及使用效果测试
1.1涂擦性能、跌落性能试验
将实施例1-9、对比例1-7制备的彩妆化妆品参照QB/T1976-2006进行涂擦性能、跌落性能试验，测试结果如表3所示。
表3涂擦性能、跌落试验测试结果
其中，涂擦性能合格表示油块面积≤1/4粉块面积；跌落试验合格表示破损≤1。
从表3可以看出，本发明技术方案制备的彩妆化妆品在涂擦性能和跌落试验方面均合格。
1.2产品脱模情况
针对产品的脱模情况进行总结如表4所示。
表4脱模情况
备注：+++代表脱模非常容易，完全不粘模；++代表脱模较容易，不粘模；+代表能够脱模，但会有部分粘模；
从表4可以看出，本发明技术方案制备的彩妆产品脱模效果好，不粘模。
1.3产品外观、肤感等性质
选取5名20-30岁的女性志愿者对实施例1-9的产品进行外观纹理度、上色度、妆感清透度、贴肤情况的试用评价，结果如表5所示。
表5产品外观、肤感等性质
| 样品 | 纹理清晰度 | 上色度 | 妆感清透度 | 贴肤性 |
| 实施例1 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| 实施例2 | 3 | 5 | 4 | 4 |
| 实施例3 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 4 |
| 实施例4 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 4 |
| 实施例5 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 5 |
| 实施例6 | 5 | 5 | 4 | 5 |
| 实施例7 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 4 |
| 实施例8 | 4 | 5 | 4 | 5 |
| 实施例9 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 5 |
备注：外观、肤感评分范围为1-5分，分值越高，代表此项测试效果越好。
通过表5可以看出，本发明的产品在纹理清晰度、上色度、妆感清透度、贴肤性方面均表现出较为优异的效果，总体评分在15分以上。本发明在制备立体造型彩妆产品方面具有良好的效果，通过配方的合理组配，即使在着色剂含量较高的情况下，仍然具有较好的产品纹理度、上色度和肤感等。
上述实施例为本发明较佳的实施方式，但本发明的实施方式并不受上述实施例的限制，其他的任何未背离本发明的精神实质与原理下所作的改变、修饰、替代、组合、简化，均应为等效的置换方式，都包含在本发明的保护范围之内。
Claims (7)
1.一种彩妆组合物，其特征在于，所述彩妆组合物包含A相、B相、C相、D相，按质量百分数计：
A相包含粘合剂4-18％，乳化剂2-16％，抗结块剂1-10％，防腐剂0.1-1.2％；
B相包含保湿剂1-12％，皮肤调理剂0.05-2％，增稠剂0.02-0.6％，防腐剂0.1-1.0％，水适量；
C相为着色剂15-60％；
D相为亲水性增稠剂0.05-0.5％；
其中，所述A相粘合剂为鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯、鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯、异十三醇异壬酸酯、异壬酸异壬酯、角鲨烷、氢化聚异丁烯、氢化聚癸烯、丁二醇二辛酸/二癸酸酯中任意一种；
A相乳化剂中包含主乳化剂和助乳化剂，其中主乳化剂为聚山梨醇酯-80、聚山梨醇酯-20、PEG-20失水山梨醇油酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、甘油硬脂酸酯//PEG-100硬脂酸酯、山梨坦硬脂酸酯//蔗糖椰油酸酯中一种；助乳化剂为C12-20酸PEG-8酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇、C14-22醇中一种；
A相抗结块剂为HDI/三羟甲基己基内酯交联聚合物//硅石、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、锦纶-12、硅石、甲基丙烯酸甲酯交联聚合物中任意一种；
B相中所述的增稠剂为皱波角叉菜提取物、黄原胶、刺槐果胶中任意两种的组合。
2.根据权利要求1所述的彩妆组合物，其特征在于，所述亲水性增稠剂选自氯化钾、氯化钠、氯化钙、磷酸氢钙中一种。
3.根据权利要求1所述的彩妆组合物，其特征在于，所述乳化剂中主乳化剂与助乳化剂的质量比优选3∶5。
4.根据权利要求1所述的彩妆组合物，其特征在于，B相中所述的增稠剂优选皱波角叉菜提取物与刺槐果胶的组合，且质量比为3∶2。
5.根据权利要求1所述的彩妆组合物，其特征在于，所述A相和B相中的防腐剂选自辛甘醇、乙基己基甘油、羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯、苯甲醇、苯甲酸钠、苯氧乙醇、甘油辛酸酯中一种或几种。
6.根据权利要求1所述的彩妆组合物，其特征在于，所述保湿剂选自甘油、丙二醇、丁二醇中一种或几种，所述皮肤调理剂选自银耳子实体提取物、透明质酸钠、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸、α-熊果苷、尿囊素、海藻糖、PCA钠中一种或几种。
7.一种化妆品，其特征在于所述化妆品由权利要求1所述的彩妆组合物制备，化妆品的制备方法如下：
(1)将A相中的粘合剂、乳化剂、抗结块剂、防腐剂在70-85℃混合搅拌均匀，保温；
(2)将B相中的保湿剂、皮肤调理剂、增稠剂、防腐剂、水在70-85℃混合搅拌均匀，保温；
(3)将D相加入B相中在70-85℃搅拌均匀；
(4)将步骤(1)中的A相混合物加入到步骤(3)的BD相混合物料中，搅拌均匀；
(5)将C相加入到步骤(4)中的混合物料中，搅拌均匀；
(6)把ABCD的混合物物料灌入硅胶模型中，冷却至-10-20℃后脱模，在50-80℃下烤干8-24h后即成型，包装。
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