CN110302094B

CN110302094B - High-gloss non-stick lip glaze and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN110302094B
Application number: CN201910642996.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 沈进; 邓伟健; 林锦雄
Original assignee: Guangzhou Aibei Biological Technology Co Ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Aibei Biological Technology Co Ltd
Priority date: 2019-07-16
Filing date: 2019-07-16
Publication date: 2022-03-29
Anticipated expiration: 2039-07-16
Also published as: CN110302094A

Abstract

The invention provides a high-gloss non-stick lip glaze and a preparation method thereof, belonging to the field of cosmetics. The high-gloss non-stick lip glaze is an oil-in-water system and comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.1-10% of ethyl cellulose A, 0.1-10% of ethyl cellulose B, and 0.1-30% of a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, can form a film which is uniform, light, smooth, soft, moist, high in glossiness and good in waterproof effect on lips, and has excellent non-stick performance, and the lip glaze has excellent coloring durability by compounding a water-soluble coloring agent and a discolored oil-soluble coloring agent.

Description

High-gloss non-stick lip glaze and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a high-gloss non-stick lip glaze and a preparation method thereof.

Background

People can change the complexion into ruddy and glossy by applying the lip makeup, but most of the prior lip makeup products are oil wax systems, and have the following problems:

(1) the problems that the moistened glossy lipstick or lip glaze is easy to remove makeup and has a non-lasting makeup effect generally exist, the lipstick or lip glaze which is not stuck to a cup for a long time is generally a matte mist surface, and the moistening degree is poor;

(2) lipstick or lip glaze of the oil wax system can form a closed oil film on lips, so that greasiness and heaviness are easily brought, and water can be really supplemented to the lips rarely through moisture absorption;

(3) there are few lip products on the market today that have both a high gloss and a long-lasting non-stick finish.

Aiming at the technical problems, the applicant develops a lip product which has high moistening degree and high glossiness and can not stick to a cup for a long time through a large number of tests and tests.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the defects in the prior art and provides a high-gloss non-stick lip glaze and a preparation method thereof.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the technical scheme that:

in a first aspect, the invention provides a high-gloss non-stick cup lip glaze, which is an oil-in-water system and comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.1 to 10 percent of ethyl cellulose A, 0.1 to 10 percent of ethyl cellulose B, and 0.1-30% of a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, the ethyl cellulose A and the ethyl cellulose B are respectively prepared into 5 percent solution by using mixed solution of toluene and ethanol, the viscosity is 3-5.5 mPa.s and 90-110 mPa.s respectively measured at 25 ℃, the mass ratio of the toluene to the ethanol in the mixed solution of the toluene and the ethanol is 4:1, the mass ratio of polydimethylsiloxane to polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer in the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer is 80-90: 10-20; preferably, ethyl cellulose A is present in an amount of 3%, ethyl cellulose B is present in an amount of 1.5%, and the polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer mixture is present in an amount of 15%, based on the total weight of the lip glaze. The ethyl cellulose A can moisturize the skin and provide a long-acting moisturizing effect; the ethyl cellulose A and the ethyl cellulose B are compounded for use, so that a film which is uniform, light, smooth, good in waterproofness and durability can be provided, the film can be used as a barrier to slow down the water volatilization of lips, and compared with the traditional film forming agent of trimethylsiloxy silicate or hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene, the formed film is better in softness; the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer has high glossiness, certain film forming effect and good silky skin feeling; when the lip glaze is an oil-in-water system and contains 0.1 to 10 weight percent of ethyl cellulose A and 0.1 to 10 weight percent of ethyl cellulose B respectively, and 0.1-30% of a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, because the mixture of the polydimethylsiloxane and the polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer is incompatible with the ethyl cellulose A and the ethyl cellulose B, the lip glaze can generate a very good non-stick effect, and particularly when the ethyl cellulose A accounts for 3 percent, the ethyl cellulose B accounts for 1.5 percent and the mixture of the polydimethylsiloxane and the polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer accounts for 15 percent based on the total weight of the lip glaze, the non-stick effect of the lip glaze is better.

Preferably, the lip enamel further comprises a water soluble colorant comprising a mixture of CI 45410, CI 15510 and CI77891 and sodium alginate, an oil soluble colorant comprising CI 45380, an emulsifier and water; calculated by taking the total weight of the lip glaze as a reference, 0.01-3% of CI 45410, 0.01-3% of CI 15510, 0.01-10% of a mixture of CI77891 and sodium alginate, 0.01-2% of CI 45380, 0.11-20% of an emulsifier and 20-60% of water, wherein the weight ratio of CI77891 to sodium alginate is 97: 3. Compared with an oil phase system and a water-in-oil system, the lip glaze adopts an oil-in-water system, and is lighter, thinner and more refreshing when being applied; the mixture of CI 45410, CI 15510 and CI77891 and sodium alginate is a water-soluble colorant, and when the water-soluble colorant is added into the water phase, the coloring power is stronger and more durable than that of the colorant in the oil phase; CI 45380 is a color-changing oil-soluble colorant, and can provide certain color-changing effect when added into an oil phase; the mixture of CI 45410, CI 15510 and CI77891 in the water phase and sodium alginate is compounded with CI 45380 in the oil phase, so that the lasting property of coloring of the product can be effectively improved. Wherein CI 45410 is acid red 92, CI 15510 is acid orange 7, CI77891 is titanium dioxide, and CI 45380 is acid red 87.

Preferably, CI 45410 accounts for 0.6%, CI 15510 accounts for 0.6%, CI77891 accounts for 0.4% in total with the mixture of sodium alginate, and CI 45380 accounts for 1%, based on the total weight of the lip gloss.

Preferably, the emulsifier comprises sodium lauryl sulfate, sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate; calculated by taking the total weight of the lip glaze as a reference, 0.01-5% of sodium lauryl sulfate, and 0.1-15% of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate; further preferably, the sodium lauryl sulfate accounts for 0.3-5%, and the sorbitan stearate and the sucrose cocoate account for 3-15% in total. The applicant finds through a large number of experiments that the polydimethylsiloxane and the mixture of the polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer are incompatible with sodium lauryl sulfate, sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate, and when the sodium lauryl sulfate, sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate are used as emulsifiers of the lip glaze, the non-stick cup effect of the lip glaze can be further improved, especially when the sodium lauryl sulfate accounts for 0.3-5% and the sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate account for 3-15% of the total weight of the lip glaze, the non-stick cup effect of the lip glaze is greatly improved, and the non-stick cup test score is more than 9.

Preferably, the lip glaze further comprises a humectant, and the humectant comprises 1-15% of glycerol by weight of the lip glaze. The glycerin can be combined with the product or the moisture in the air to directly supplement the moisture to the lips; the cosmetic is not greasy and heavy like the traditional pure oil wax system of lip glaze, which retains water through a closed oil film.

Preferably, the lip glaze further comprises a thickening agent, and the thickening agent comprises 0.1-2% of hydroxypropyl guar gum by weight of the lip glaze. The hydroxypropyl guar gum can thicken and improve the viscosity of the product, has certain film forming property and moisture retention property, and can be combined with the product or moisture in the air to directly supplement moisture for lips.

Preferably, the lip glaze also comprises an emollient and a preservative, wherein the emollient comprises octyl dodecanol and cetyl alcohol respectively accounting for 5-60% and 0.01-10% of the weight of the lip glaze, and the preservative comprises glyceryl caprylate and a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol respectively accounting for 0.05-1% of the weight of the lip glaze.

Preferably, the lip glaze further comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.6% of CI 45410, 0.6% of CI 15510, 0.4% of a mixture of CI77891 and sodium alginate, 1% of CI 45380, 0.3% of sodium lauryl sulfate, 3% of a mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate, 4% of glycerol, 0.2% of hydroxypropyl guar, 31% of octyldodecanol, 1% of cetyl alcohol, 0.3% of glyceryl caprylate, 0.3% of a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol, and 37.8% of water, wherein the weight ratio of sorbitan stearate to sucrose cocoate is 82.5:17.5 and the weight ratio of phenoxyethanol to ethylhexyl glycerol is 9: 1. The water content of the lip glaze is as high as 37.8%, and the cost is lower than that of the traditional oil wax system.

In a second aspect, the invention provides a preparation method of the lip glaze, which comprises the following steps:

(1) mixing ethyl cellulose A, ethyl cellulose B, CI 45380 and part of octyldodecanol, heating to 90-95 ℃, stirring until the ethyl cellulose A, the ethyl cellulose B, CI 45380 and the part of octyldodecanol are completely dissolved and uniformly mixed, and preserving heat to obtain a phase A material; mixing sodium lauryl sulfate, cetyl alcohol and part of water, heating to 90-95 ℃, stirring until the sodium lauryl sulfate, the cetyl alcohol and the part of water are completely dissolved, slowly adding the phase A material while stirring, and stirring until the materials are uniformly mixed to obtain a phase B material; heating the sorbitan stearate, the sucrose cocoate and the residual octyldodecanol to be completely dissolved, adding the mixture into the B-phase material while stirring at 90-95 ℃, then sequentially adding a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and a polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer and glyceryl caprylate, and uniformly stirring to obtain a C-phase material;

(2) stirring and dissolving the rest of water, CI 45410, CI 15510 and the mixture of CI77891 and sodium alginate completely, then adding glycerol and hydroxypropyl guar gum, homogenizing at the rotating speed of 1000-3000rpm until no particles exist, and dispersing completely and uniformly to obtain a D-phase material;

(3) adding the D-phase material and the mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin into the C-phase material while stirring at the rotation speed of 800rpm, homogenizing at the rotation speed of 3000rpm of 1000-.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages and beneficial effects:

(1) the high-gloss non-stick cup lip glaze can form a film which is uniform, light, smooth, soft, moist, high in gloss and good in waterproof effect on lips, has excellent non-stick cup performance, and can bring good use experience to users.

(2) The high-gloss non-stick lip glaze provided by the invention is prepared by compounding the water-soluble coloring agent and the discolored oil-soluble coloring agent, so that the coloring capability and the coloring durability of the lip glaze are effectively improved.

(3) The high-gloss non-stick lip glaze disclosed by the invention can be used for directly supplementing water to lips by adding components with moisture absorption effects such as glycerol and hydroxypropyl guar gum, so that the makeup is more refreshing.

(4) The water content of the high-gloss non-stick lip glaze can reach more than 37.8 percent, so that the formula cost can be greatly reduced, the cost performance of the lip glaze is higher, and the high-gloss non-stick lip glaze has better application and popularization prospects.

(5) The preparation method of the high-gloss non-stick lip glaze has the advantages of simple process, controllable conditions and easy industrial production.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a photograph of a lip glaze non-stick cup test in example 2;

FIG. 2 is a photograph of a non-stick cup test of lipstick in comparative example 5;

FIG. 3 is a photograph of a lip glaze non-stick cup test in comparative example 6.

Detailed Description

To better illustrate the objects, aspects and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples.

Examples 1 to 8

Examples 1-8 are examples of high gloss non-stick lip glazes according to the present invention having the composition shown in Table 1, wherein ethyl cellulose A is ETHOCEL available from the Dow chemical company^TMStd 4Premium, Ethyl cellulose B is ETHOCEL available from the Dow chemical company^TMStd 100Premium, preparing ethyl cellulose A and ethyl cellulose B into solutions with the mass fraction of 5% by respectively using a mixed solution of toluene and ethanol, wherein the viscosities measured at 25 ℃ are respectively 3-5.5mPa & s and 90-110mPa & s, and the mass ratio of the toluene to the ethanol in the mixed solution of the toluene and the ethanol is 4: 1; the mass ratio of polydimethylsiloxane to polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer in the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer is 80-90: 10-20; the weight ratio of CI77891 to sodium alginate in the mixture of CI77891 and sodium alginate is 97:3, the weight ratio of sorbitan stearate to sucrose cocoate in the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate is 82.5:17.5, and the weight ratio of phenoxyethanol to ethylhexyl glycerol in the mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol is 9: 1.

TABLE 1 composition/% of lip gloss in examples 1 to 8

The lip glaze in examples 1-8 was prepared by the following steps:

(1) mixing ethyl cellulose A, ethyl cellulose B, CI 45380 and part of octyldodecanol, heating to 90-95 ℃, stirring until the ethyl cellulose A, the ethyl cellulose B, CI 45380 and the part of octyldodecanol are completely dissolved and uniformly mixed, and preserving heat to obtain a phase A material; mixing sodium lauryl sulfate, cetyl alcohol and part of water, heating to 90-95 ℃, stirring until the sodium lauryl sulfate, the cetyl alcohol and the part of water are completely dissolved, slowly adding the phase A material while stirring, and stirring until the materials are uniformly mixed to obtain a phase B material; then, mixing and heating the sorbitan stearate, the sucrose cocoate and the residual octyldodecanol to 75 ℃, adding the mixture into the phase B material while stirring at 90-95 ℃ after the mixture is completely dissolved, then sequentially adding the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and the polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer and the glyceryl caprylate, and uniformly stirring to obtain a phase C material;

Comparative examples 1 to 4

Comparative examples 1 to 4 are lip glazes each having a composition as shown in table 2, wherein a mixture of CI77891 and sodium alginate, a mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate, and a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerin are the same as in examples 1 to 8.

TABLE 2 composition/% of lip gloss in comparative examples 1 to 4

Comparative examples 5 to 6

Comparative examples 5-6 are each a commercially available lip glaze or lipstick, with comparative example 5 being a ripple on dumpy lipstick from yashilander and comparative example 6 being an amani (ARMANI) fine velvet matt lip glaze.

The applicant carried out the following tests to test the effect of the high gloss non-stick cup lip glaze of the present application:

(1) color gloss test

The lip glazes of comparative examples 5 to 6 all claim to have high gloss, and the lip glazes of examples 1 to 8 and the lip glazes of comparative examples 5 to 6 were applied to the lips, respectively, and then the gloss of the finished lips was observed, and it was found that the lip glazes of examples 1 to 8 had gloss, had gloss not inferior to that of the lip glazes of comparative examples 5 to 6, and appeared to be more water-moist.

(2) Non-stick cup effect and spreadability test

Test samples: lip gloss or lipstick according to examples 1-8, comparative examples 1-2 and comparative examples 5-6.

The test method comprises the following steps: after lip glaze or lipstick is uniformly coated on the lips, the coating performance is scored, the scoring range is 0-10 points, the higher the score is, the better the coating performance is, and the more easily the lip glaze or lipstick is uniformly coated on the lips and spread. And then respectively pressing the lip marks on the same cups with the same force, and then scoring according to the condition of dipping the cups, wherein the scoring range is 0-10 points, the higher the score is, the better the condition of not dipping the cups is represented, and the specific result is shown in a table 3.

TABLE 3 non-staining cup Effect and spreadability score results

Sample (I)	Spreadability score	Non-stick cup scoring
			Example 1	6	2
Example 2	9	9
			Example 3	3	10
Example 4	3	9
			Example 5	9	9
Example 6	7	6
			Example 7	5	4
Example 8	4	9
			Comparative example 1	8	3
Comparative example 2	4	4
			Comparative example 5	8	3
Comparison ofExample 6	6	5

In addition, comparing FIGS. 1-3, it can be seen that the lip glaze of example 2 is more effective in preventing sticking to the cup.

(3) Color durability test

Test samples: lip gloss or lipstick according to examples 1-8 and comparative examples 3-6.

The test method comprises the following steps: after the lip glaze or lipstick was uniformly applied to the lips, the residual amount of the lip glaze or lipstick was measured after a certain time, and the results are shown in table 4.

TABLE 4 color durability test results%

Note: the "/" in table 4 represents no test.

Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention and not for limiting the protection scope of the present invention, and although the present invention is described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made on the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.

Claims

1. A high-gloss non-stick lip glaze is characterized in that: the lip glaze is an oil-in-water system and comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 3-10% of ethyl cellulose A, 1.5-10% of ethyl cellulose B and 15-30% of a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, wherein the ethyl cellulose A and the ethyl cellulose B are respectively prepared into 5% solution by mass fraction by using a mixed solution of toluene and ethanol, the viscosity is respectively 3-5.5mPa & s and 90-110mPa & s when measured at 25 ℃, and the mass ratio of toluene to ethanol in the mixed solution of toluene and ethanol is 4: 1; the mass ratio of polydimethylsiloxane to polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer in the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer is 80-90: 10-20;

the lip glaze further comprises a water-soluble colorant and an oil-soluble colorant, wherein the water-soluble colorant comprises acid red 92, acid orange 7 and a mixture of titanium dioxide and sodium alginate, and the oil-soluble colorant comprises acid red 87; based on the total weight of the lip glaze, the acid red 92 accounts for 0.01-3%, the acid orange 7 accounts for 0.01-3%, the mixture of titanium dioxide and sodium alginate accounts for 0.01-10%, and the acid red 87 accounts for 0.01-2%; wherein the weight ratio of the titanium dioxide to the sodium alginate is 97: 3.

2. The lip glaze according to claim 1, wherein: the lip glaze comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 3% ethylcellulose a, 1.5% ethylcellulose B, and 15% polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer blend.

3. The lip glaze according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: the lip glaze further comprises an emulsifier and water; based on the total weight of the lip glaze, the emulsifier accounts for 0.11-20%, and the water accounts for 20-60%.

4. The lip glaze of claim 3, wherein: based on the total weight of the lip glaze, acid red 92 accounts for 0.6%, acid orange 7 accounts for 0.6%, the mixture of titanium dioxide and sodium alginate accounts for 0.4%, and acid red 87 accounts for 1%.

5. The lip glaze of claim 3, wherein: the emulsifier comprises sodium lauryl sulfate, sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate; based on the total weight of the lip glaze, 0.01-5% of sodium lauryl sulfate and 0.1-15% of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate are calculated.

6. The lip glaze of claim 3, wherein: the lip glaze also comprises a humectant which comprises glycerin accounting for 1-15% of the weight of the lip glaze.

7. The lip glaze of claim 3, wherein: the lip glaze also comprises a thickening agent, wherein the thickening agent comprises 0.1-2% of hydroxypropyl guar gum by weight of the lip glaze.

8. The lip glaze of claim 3, wherein: the lip glaze also comprises an emollient and a preservative, wherein the emollient comprises octyl dodecanol and cetyl alcohol respectively accounting for 5-60% and 0.01-10% of the weight of the lip glaze, and the preservative comprises glyceryl caprylate and a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerin accounting for 0.05-1% of the weight of the lip glaze respectively.

9. The lip glaze of claim 3, wherein: the lip glaze also comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.6% of acid Red 92, 0.6% of acid orange 7, 0.4% of a mixture of titanium dioxide and sodium alginate, 1% of acid Red 87, 0.3% of sodium lauryl sulfate, 3% of a mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate, 4% of glycerol, 0.2% of hydroxypropyl guar, 31% of octyldodecanol, 1% of cetyl alcohol, 0.3% of glyceryl caprylate, 0.3% of a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol, and 37.8% of water, wherein the weight ratio of sorbitan stearate to sucrose cocoate is 82.5:17.5, and the weight ratio of phenoxyethanol to ethylhexyl glycerol is 9: 1.

10. A method of preparing a lip glaze according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein: the preparation method comprises the following steps:

(1) mixing ethyl cellulose A, ethyl cellulose B, acid red 87 and partial octyldodecanol, heating to 90-95 ℃, stirring until the materials are completely dissolved and uniformly mixed, and preserving heat to obtain a phase A material; mixing sodium lauryl sulfate, cetyl alcohol and part of water, heating to 90-95 ℃, stirring until the sodium lauryl sulfate, the cetyl alcohol and the part of water are completely dissolved, slowly adding the phase A material while stirring, and stirring until the materials are uniformly mixed to obtain a phase B material; then, mixing and heating the sorbitan stearate, the sucrose cocoate and the residual octyldodecanol until the sorbitan stearate, the sucrose cocoate and the residual octyldodecanol are completely dissolved, adding the mixture into the phase B material while stirring at the temperature of 90-95 ℃, then sequentially adding a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and a polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer and glyceryl caprylate, and uniformly stirring to obtain a phase C material;

(2) stirring and dissolving the rest water, acid red 92, acid orange 7 and the mixture of titanium dioxide and sodium alginate completely, then adding glycerol and hydroxypropyl guar gum, homogenizing at the rotating speed of 1000-3000rpm until no particles exist, and dispersing completely and uniformly to obtain a D-phase material;