CN108703908B

CN108703908B - Anti-acne and freckle-removing essence and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN108703908B
Application number: CN201810882117.5A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 李媛媛
Original assignee: Global Cosmetics China Co ltd
Current assignee: GLOBAL COSMETICS (CHINA) Co.,Ltd.
Priority date: 2018-08-06
Filing date: 2018-08-06
Publication date: 2021-05-07
Anticipated expiration: 2038-08-06
Also published as: CN108703908A

Abstract

The invention aims to provide the anti-acne and freckle-removing essence and the preparation method thereof, wherein the anti-acne and freckle-removing essence has excellent antioxidant, anti-aging and moisturizing effects, prominent whitening, freckle-removing, anti-inflammatory and anti-acne effects, fresh skin feeling, high stability and high safety. The invention relates to an anti-acne and freckle-removing essence which is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 75-85 parts of purified water, 0.3-0.5 part of lithium magnesium silicate, 0.5-0.8 part of water-soluble fullerene powder, 0.2-0.3 part of sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan, 3.5-4 parts of sodium lauroyl methyl aminopropionate, 5-6 parts of butanediol, 4.5-5 parts of ethylhexyl isononanoate, 3-3.5 parts of methyl glucose sesquistearate, 3-3.5 parts of lotus extract, 3-3.5 parts of bugle extract, 3.5-4 parts of wild papaya fermented extract, 4.5-5 parts of pine pollen and 0.2-0.3 part of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate.

Description

Anti-acne and freckle-removing essence and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of biology and cosmetics, and particularly relates to an anti-acne and freckle-removing essence and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The tea tree oil can help acne kill bacteria and diminish inflammation, prevent the continuous occurrence of face blister, control suppurative part to deteriorate, and is suitable for various skin types. Salicylic acid is a powerful antibacterial agent, which neutralizes and inhibits the growth of bacteria, thus effectively promoting healing of pox and reducing skin blemishes, and is suitable for neutral, oily and mixed skin. The benzoyl peroxide has bactericidal effect, so that the benzoyl peroxide has treatment effect on papules and inflamed and red pimples, has the functions of resisting propionibacterium acnes and inhibiting the formation of acnes, and is suitable for slight dryness and desquamation of sensitive and dry skin which are possibly caused by advanced trial. The octanoyl salicylic acid can effectively dredge sebum excretion channels. Compared with the traditional exfoliating component, the composition is easier to permeate into stratum corneum and is suitable for oily and mixed skin. The azalea acid has effects of regulating lipid secretion, inhibiting skin seborrhea, removing skin acne, resisting bacteria, and relieving inflammation, and is suitable for oily, mixed and neutral skin. Vitamin C is the whitening and freckle-removing component which is found to have the highest safety factor at present. However, vitamin C is relatively unstable and not easily absorbed by the skin. Fruit acid is an organic acid extracted from fruits and is greatly sought by women because of the capability of fading black spots. The fruit acid is used for decomposing cutin arrangement, so that the cutin layer of the skin is smoothly stripped from the epidermis, thereby carrying away the brown pigment to achieve the whitening effect, and the hydroquinone is an extremely effective spot-lightening component, and can effectively whiten the skin, inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, and prevent the natural growth of the brown pigment.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide the anti-acne and freckle-removing essence and the preparation method thereof, wherein the anti-acne and freckle-removing essence has excellent antioxidant, anti-aging and moisturizing effects, prominent whitening, freckle-removing, anti-inflammatory and anti-acne effects, fresh skin feeling, high stability and high safety.

The invention relates to an anti-acne and freckle-removing essence which is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 75-85 parts of purified water, 0.3-0.5 part of lithium magnesium silicate, 0.5-0.8 part of water-soluble fullerene powder, 0.2-0.3 part of sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan, 3.5-4 parts of sodium lauroyl methyl aminopropionate, 5-6 parts of butanediol, 4.5-5 parts of ethylhexyl isononanoate, 3-3.5 parts of methyl glucose sesquistearate, 3-3.5 parts of lotus extract, 3-3.5 parts of bugle extract, 3.5-4 parts of wild papaya fermented extract, 4.5-5 parts of pine pollen and 0.2-0.3 part of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate.

The anti-acne and freckle-removing essence is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 80 parts of purified water, 0.4 part of lithium magnesium silicate, 0.6 part of water-soluble fullerene powder, 0.25 part of sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan, 3.6 parts of sodium lauroyl methyl aminopropionate, 5.8 parts of butanediol, 4.8 parts of ethylhexyl isononanoate, 3.2 parts of methyl glucose sesquistearate, 3.2 parts of lotus extract, 3.2 parts of bugle extract, 3.8 parts of common wild papaya fermented extract, 4.6 parts of pine pollen and 0.25 part of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate.

The method for preparing the anti-acne and freckle-removing essence comprises the following steps:

(1) mixing the purified water and the lithium magnesium silicate in parts by weight, heating to 80-85 ℃, and uniformly stirring; when the temperature is 70-75 ℃, adding the water-soluble fullerene powder, the carboxymethyl beta-dextran sodium and the lauroyl methyl amino sodium propionate in parts by weight, and uniformly stirring;

(2) uniformly stirring the butanediol, the ethylhexyl isononanoate and the methyl glucose sesquistearate in parts by weight; slowly adding the mixture into the mixture obtained in the step (1), and uniformly stirring at 60-65 ℃;

(3) uniformly mixing the lotus extract, the trumpetplant extract, the blunt-drug stauntonvine fermentation extract and the pine pollen in parts by weight, adding the mixture into the mixture obtained in the step (2), and uniformly stirring at 50-55 ℃;

(4) cooling the mixture obtained in the step (3) to 40-45 ℃, adding the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate in parts by weight, and uniformly stirring; cooling and discharging to obtain the product.

In the invention, the ethylhexyl isononanoate is used as a softener, has low greasy feeling, and has very light and refreshing skin feeling. Butanediol is used as humectant and solvent. The carboxymethyl beta-glucan sodium is a modified water-soluble polysaccharide extracted from the cell wall of saccharomyces cerevisiae and has good moisturizing effect. The magnesium lithium silicate is used as a thickening agent and a filling agent. Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate acts as a green chelator. The water-soluble fullerene powder and the fullerene C60 can be compatible with free radicals, have extremely strong oxidation resistance, and can play a role in activating skin cells and delaying skin cell decay. Sodium lauroyl methylaminopropionate is an amino acid surfactant, and methyl glucose sesquistearate is a nonionic surfactant, and has excellent emulsifying, dispersing and solubilizing abilities, and good compatibility with skin.

The pine pollen is sperm cells of pistil of pine, also known as pine pollen, contains rich amino acids, all natural vitamins and various enzymes, and can enhance skin metabolism, increase skin elasticity and delay skin aging. Can be selected from 98% of wall-broken pollen Pini from Xian Luteng biotechnology limited. The flos Nelumbinis extract has certain skin antiaging and antiaging effects. The extract of flos Nelumbinis of Jiangxian Baizhentang Biotechnology GmbH can be selected.

The extract of Horizonta nigra (Cratellus cornucopiaides) is anti-inflammatory and acne-removing component, and can inhibit THP-1 cell from secreting inflammatory factor IL-1 beta. The following method can be adopted for extraction: crushing the bugleya amabilis, adding 75% ethanol according to the material-liquid ratio of 1:20, performing ultrasonic treatment at 70-75 ℃ for leaching for 6-8 hours, filtering, centrifuging, collecting supernatant, filtering and decoloring by using an activated carbon column, concentrating under reduced pressure, and performing vacuum freeze drying to obtain the bugleya amabilis.

Effect of Hyphomyces nigricans extract on secretion of inflammatory factor IL-1 β by THP-1 cells: taking THP-1 cells in exponential growth phase, and regulating the cell density to about 1 × 10 with culture solution⁶And inoculating the cells/mL into a 96-well culture plate, and incubating with the Trypanosoma nigricans extract with the final mass concentration of 20mg/mL for 4 h. Taking propionibacterium acnes cultured for 72 hours in an anaerobic way, centrifuging at 2500r/min, washing for 3-4 times by using a PBS (phosphate buffer solution) solution to prepare viable bacteria suspension, and mixing the viable bacteria suspension according to the ratio of the number of propionibacterium acnes to THP-1 cells of 100: 1, and adding the mixture into a 96-well plate, wherein the negative control is formed by incubation without drugs, the positive control is formed by incubation with tretinoin (20 mu mol/L), and the blank control is formed by addition of Phosphate Buffer Solution (PBS) only. Placing at constant temperature of 37 ℃ with 5% CO²And culturing in an incubator with saturated humidity for 24 h. The IL-1 beta content was detected according to the IL-1 beta ELISA kit instructions. IL-1 β inhibition = secretion amount decrease value/initial secretion amount value × 100%.

The secretion of inflammatory factors is an intuitive index of the occurrence of acne inflammation, and IL-1 beta is specifically generated when human acute monocyte THP-1 generates an inflammatory reaction, so the IL-1 beta is usually used as an index for screening related to the acne inflammation. The effect of the Horizonta nigra extract on IL-1. beta. secretion by Propionibacterium acnes-stimulated THP-1 cells was determined by ELISA and the results are shown (FIG. 1). Propionibacterium acnes induces the secretion of IL-1 β in large amounts by THP-1 cells. The positive control drug retinoic acid can effectively inhibit IL-1 beta secretion, IL-1 beta secretion is reduced to 47.33 ng/L, and compared with a negative control group, the inhibition rate is 83.2%. The Trypanosoma nigricans extract with the mass concentration of 20mg/mL can obviously inhibit the secretion of inflammatory cytokine IL-1 beta, the IL-1 beta secretion is reduced to 12.56 ng/L, and the inhibition rate is 95.5%. The Hordeum nigrum extract can be used as anti-inflammatory and acne-removing component.

The blunted stauntonvine fermented extract is an extract of blunted stauntonvine (Stauntonia leucoantha Diels ex Y.C.Wu) after fermentation, can promote melanin metabolism, inhibit and destroy melanin generation, has the outstanding effect of whitening skin, and can be extracted by the following method: crushing the blunt medicinal stauntonvine, adding the crushed blunt medicinal stauntonvine into a fermentation tank, and adding distilled water according to the feed-liquid ratio of 1: 9; inoculating activated and cultured pediococcus cerevisiae for fermentation, wherein the inoculation amount is 1.5-2.5%; fermenting for 24-36 hours at 28-30 ℃; then carrying out ultrasonic extraction for 3 times at 70-80 ℃, carrying out ultrasonic extraction at the frequency of 60kHz and the power of 330W for 30-60 minutes each time, filtering, combining filtrates, centrifuging for 10 minutes at 8000r/min, taking supernatant, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain an extract.

The anti-acne and freckle-removing essence disclosed by the invention has an outstanding synergistic effect among the components, and adopts fullerene and a lotus extract to form an anti-oxidation and anti-aging component; carboxymethyl beta-glucan sodium is used as a moisture retention component; the pine pollen and the blunt drug stauntonvine fermented extract are used as the components for whitening and removing freckles in a synergistic manner, and the effect is remarkable. The bugle extract is an anti-inflammatory acne-removing component, can effectively inhibit the THP-1 cells from secreting inflammatory factors IL-1 beta, and the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and the bugle extract have a certain synergistic effect and obvious anti-inflammatory and anti-acne effects; the essence consisting of ethylhexyl isononanoate, sodium lauroyl methylaminopropionate, methylglucose sesquistearate and lithium magnesium silicate has refreshing skin feeling, high stability and high safety.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a graph showing the results of experiments on the amount of IL-1. beta. secretion in different groups.

Detailed Description

The following examples are intended to further illustrate the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention, and other insubstantial modifications and adaptations of the invention by those skilled in the art based on the teachings herein are intended to be covered thereby.

Example 1: the preparation method of the anti-acne and anti-freckle essence comprises the following steps:

(1) mixing 80 parts of purified water and 0.4 part of lithium magnesium silicate, heating to 80-85 ℃, and uniformly stirring; when the temperature is 70-75 ℃, adding 0.6 part of water-soluble fullerene powder, 0.25 part of carboxymethyl beta-dextran sodium and 3.6 parts of lauroyl methyl amino sodium propionate, and uniformly stirring;

(2) 5.8 parts of butanediol, 4.8 parts of ethylhexyl isononanoate and 3.2 parts of methyl glucose sesquistearate are mixed and stirred uniformly; slowly adding the mixture into the mixture obtained in the step (1), and uniformly stirring at the temperature of 60-65 ℃;

(3) uniformly mixing 3.2 parts of lotus extract, 3.2 parts of trumpet fungus extract, 3.8 parts of blunt-drug stauntonvine fermentation extract and 4.6 parts of pine pollen, then adding the mixture into the mixture obtained in the step (2), and uniformly stirring the mixture at the temperature of 50-55 ℃;

(4) cooling the mixture obtained in the step (3) to 40-45 ℃, adding 0.25 part of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and uniformly stirring; cooling and discharging to obtain the product.

Example 2: the preparation method of the anti-acne and anti-freckle essence comprises the following steps:

(1) mixing 75 parts of purified water and 0.3 part of lithium magnesium silicate, heating to 80-85 ℃, and uniformly stirring; when the temperature is 70-75 ℃, adding 0.5 part of water-soluble fullerene powder, 0.2 part of carboxymethyl beta-dextran sodium and 3.5 parts of lauroyl methyl amino sodium propionate, and uniformly stirring;

(2) mixing 5 parts of butanediol, 4.5 parts of ethylhexyl isononanoate and 3 parts of methyl glucose sesquistearate, and uniformly stirring; slowly adding the mixture into the mixture obtained in the step (1), and uniformly stirring at the temperature of 60-65 ℃;

(3) uniformly mixing 3 parts of lotus extract, 3 parts of trumpet fungus extract, 3.5 parts of blunt-drug stauntonvine fermentation extract and 4.5 parts of pine pollen, then adding the mixture obtained in the step (2), and uniformly stirring at the temperature of 50-55 ℃;

(4) cooling the mixture obtained in the step (3) to 40-45 ℃, adding 0.2 part of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and uniformly stirring; cooling and discharging to obtain the product.

Example 3: the preparation method of the anti-acne and anti-freckle essence comprises the following steps:

(1) mixing 85 parts of purified water and 0.5 part of lithium magnesium silicate, heating to 80-85 ℃, and uniformly stirring; when the temperature is 70-75 ℃, adding 0.8 part of water-soluble fullerene powder, 0.3 part of carboxymethyl beta-dextran sodium and 4 parts of lauroyl methyl amino sodium propionate, and uniformly stirring;

(2) 6 parts of butanediol, 5 parts of ethylhexyl isononanoate and 3.5 parts of methyl glucose sesquistearate are mixed and stirred uniformly; slowly adding the mixture into the mixture obtained in the step (1), and uniformly stirring at the temperature of 60-65 ℃;

(3) uniformly mixing 3.5 parts of lotus extract, 3.5 parts of bugloss extract, 4 parts of blunt-drug stauntonvine fermentation extract and 5 parts of pine pollen, then adding the mixture obtained in the step (2), and uniformly stirring at 50-55 ℃;

(4) cooling the mixture obtained in the step (3) to 40-45 ℃, adding 0.3 part of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and uniformly stirring; cooling and discharging to obtain the product.

Comparative example 1: the preparation method of the essence comprises the following steps:

(3) uniformly mixing 3.2 parts of lotus extract, 3.2 parts of bugloss extract and 3.8 parts of blunt drug stauntonvine fermentation extract, adding the mixture into the mixture obtained in the step (2), and uniformly stirring at 50-55 ℃;

Comparative example 2: the preparation method of the essence comprises the following steps:

(3) uniformly mixing 3.2 parts of lotus extract, 3.2 parts of bugleweed extract and 4.6 parts of pine pollen, then adding the mixture obtained in the step (2), and uniformly stirring at 50-55 ℃;

Comparative example 3: the preparation method of the essence comprises the following steps:

(3) uniformly mixing 3.2 parts of the lotus extract and 3.2 parts of the bugle extract, adding the mixture into the mixture obtained in the step (2), and uniformly stirring at the temperature of 50-55 ℃;

Comparative example 4: the preparation method of the essence comprises the following steps:

(3) uniformly mixing 3.2 parts of lotus extract, 3.2 parts of trumpet fungus extract, 3.8 parts of blunt-drug stauntonvine fermentation extract and 4.6 parts of pine pollen, then adding the mixture into the mixture obtained in the step (2), and uniformly stirring the mixture at the temperature of 50-55 ℃; cooling and discharging to obtain the product.

Comparative example 5: the preparation method of the essence comprises the following steps:

(3) uniformly mixing 3.2 parts of lotus extract, 3.8 parts of blunt-drug stauntonvine fermentation extract and 4.6 parts of pine pollen, adding the mixture into the mixture obtained in the step (2), and uniformly stirring at 50-55 ℃;

Comparative example 6: the preparation method of the anti-acne and anti-freckle essence comprises the following steps:

(3) uniformly mixing 3.2 parts of lotus extract, 3.8 parts of blunt-drug stauntonvine fermentation extract and 4.6 parts of pine pollen, adding the mixture into the mixture obtained in the step (2), and uniformly stirring at 50-55 ℃; cooling and discharging to obtain the product.

And (3) testing the whitening and freckle removing effects:

the instrument comprises the following steps: MeXAMETER MX18 skin pigment instrument manufactured by Courage + Khazaka Company (CK) of Germany; lab colorimetric system Spectrophotometer. And (3) measuring environment: testing the environmental temperature: 22 ± 3 ℃, humidity: 50 +/-5%, and carrying out real-time dynamic monitoring.

The method comprises the following steps: 212 female volunteers were selected and divided into 4 groups of 53 individuals each; the essences of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were used 1 time each in the morning and at the evening, and were continuously used for 30 days. The change in skin color was measured using a Lab colorimetric system spectrophotometer: continuously testing for 3 times, taking L^*Value average. And simultaneously measuring the content of the skin melanochrome by using a MEXAMETER MX18 skin pigment instrument: the test was performed 3 times in succession and the average value was taken. The test results are shown in Table 1, and it can be seen from Table 1 that the melanin content is significantly reduced, L, after 30 days of use in example 1 compared with comparative examples 1-3^*The value is obviously increased, and the synergistic whitening and freckle removing effects of the pine pollen and the blunt-drug stauntonvine fermented extract are obviousAnd (5) displaying.

And (3) testing the anti-inflammatory and acne-removing effects:

and (3) inclusion standard: the clinical symptoms and physical signs accord with the diagnosis standard of acne vulgaris, and the pathological change degree accords with the classification method of Chinese treatment guidelines for acne. 212 female volunteers were selected and divided into 4 groups, and the essences of example 1 and comparative examples 4 to 6 were uniformly applied twice a day at a coating density of 1.55. mu.l/cm 2, and the results of the measurement after three days are shown in Table 2.

Judging the curative effect: reduction rate = (number of inflammatory lesions before treatment-number of inflammatory lesions after treatment)/number of inflammatory lesions before treatment × 100%. The basic cure is as follows: the number of inflammatory skin lesions is reduced by more than or equal to 90 percent; the effect is shown: the number of inflammatory skin lesions is reduced by 60 to 89 percent; improvement: the number of inflammatory skin lesions is reduced by 20 to 60 percent; and (4) invalidation: the number of inflammatory lesions decreased by < 20% or exacerbated. Total effective rate = (significant effect + improvement + number of recovery cases)/total number of cases × 100%. Tests show that the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and the Trypanosoma nigricans extract in the product example 1 have a certain synergistic effect, and the acne-removing and anti-inflammatory effects are obviously superior to those of comparative examples 4-6.

Claims

1. The anti-acne and freckle-removing essence is characterized by being prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 75-85 parts of purified water, 0.3-0.5 part of lithium magnesium silicate, 0.5-0.8 part of water-soluble fullerene powder, 0.2-0.3 part of carboxymethyl beta-dextran sodium, 3.5-4 parts of sodium lauroyl methyl aminopropionate, 5-6 parts of butanediol, 4.5-5 parts of ethylhexyl isononanoate, 3-3.5 parts of methyl glucose sesquistearate, 3-3.5 parts of lotus extract, 3-3.5 parts of bugle extract, 3.5-4 parts of wild papaya fermented extract, 4.5-5 parts of pine pollen and 0.2-0.3 part of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate;

the blunt drug stauntonvine fermented extract is extracted by the following method: crushing the blunt medicinal stauntonvine, adding the crushed blunt medicinal stauntonvine into a fermentation tank, and adding distilled water according to the feed-liquid ratio of 1: 9; inoculating activated and cultured pediococcus cerevisiae for fermentation, wherein the inoculation amount is 1.5-2.5%; fermenting for 24-36 hours at 28-30 ℃; then carrying out ultrasonic extraction for 3 times at 70-80 ℃, carrying out ultrasonic extraction at the frequency of 60kHz and the power of 330W for 30-60 minutes each time, filtering, combining filtrates, centrifuging for 10 minutes at 8000r/min, taking supernatant, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain an extract.

2. The anti-acne and freckle-removing essence according to claim 1, which is characterized by being prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 80 parts of purified water, 0.4 part of lithium magnesium silicate, 0.6 part of water-soluble fullerene powder, 0.25 part of sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan, 3.6 parts of sodium lauroyl methyl aminopropionate, 5.8 parts of butanediol, 4.8 parts of ethylhexyl isononanoate, 3.2 parts of methyl glucose sesquistearate, 3.2 parts of lotus extract, 3.2 parts of bugle extract, 3.8 parts of common wild papaya fermented extract, 4.6 parts of pine pollen and 0.25 part of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate.

3. A method for preparing the anti-acne and freckle-removing essence of any one of the preceding claims, which is characterized by comprising the following steps: