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CN1086936C - 头发化妆组合物 - Google Patents

头发化妆组合物 Download PDF

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CN1086936C
CN1086936C CN95194394A CN95194394A CN1086936C CN 1086936 C CN1086936 C CN 1086936C CN 95194394 A CN95194394 A CN 95194394A CN 95194394 A CN95194394 A CN 95194394A CN 1086936 C CN1086936 C CN 1086936C
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斯蒂文·D·琼斯
菲利浦·J·马钱特
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042Gels
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8164Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a carboxyl radical, and containing at least one other carboxyl radical in the molecule, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. poly (methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic anhydride)
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    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8194Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, at least one having two or more carbon-to-carbon double bonds; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594Mixtures of polymers

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Abstract

一种头发化妆组合物,包含:(a)约0.01%至约3%(重量)的凝胶剂,该凝胶剂含有与C4-C16链二烯交联的甲基乙烯基醚/马来酐的共聚物或其水解产物;(b)约0.1%至约10%(重量)的头发固定聚合物,该聚合物含非离子纤维素和二烯丙基二甲基氯化铵的阳离子共聚物和(c)含有适用于头发的载体的平衡物。该液态的头发化妆组合物除易于洗掉外,还具有改善的无发粘的发感和手感、表现出良好的头发定型益处。

Description

头发化妆组合物
本发明涉及头发化妆组合物。更具体地说,本发明涉及的头发化妆组合物除具有梳理性能和发型保持益处外,还含有凝胶剂和头发固定/头发调理聚合物和具有改善的“使用中”和“发上”感觉特征。
使头发保持一种特定的形状是一种广泛的需要。为达此目的,一种常见的方法是使用发型设计,或给头发施以固定组合物,通常是弄湿或干燥头发。这些组合物提供暂时的头发固定效果,并且可用水和/或洗发水除去。提供头发固定益处的组合物所用物质一般采取摩丝、发胶、洗液或喷剂形式应用。
无论采用发胶或喷剂,通常都希望头发组合物能够高水平地保持发型。发胶产品的发型保持通常由采用一种或多种头发固定聚合物来获得,例如聚乙烯吡咯烷酮(PVP)和PVP与乙酸乙烯酯的共聚物(PVP/VA)结合一种凝胶剂。一种常用的凝胶剂是交联的聚丙烯酸,在CTFA中命名为Carbomer。当这种聚合物混入含常规凝胶剂的头发固定组合物中时,它们可以提供合适的发型保持特征。但是,这样的组合物在使用中和使用后会在头发和手上产生粘感,也会使导致头发感觉发硬和不自然。
现已发现凝胶剂和头发固定聚合物的某些组合可以提供优良的发型益处,没有通常与常规定型发胶相关的发粘和发硬的感觉。
因此存在对头发定型组合物的需求,该组合物可以提供有效的发型保持力、具备头发调理效果、在头发和手上也无发硬的感觉、可以容易地洗去、能防止剥落同时具有稳定的产品和粘度特征,并能在长期和严格的贮存温度下保持完全稳定。
根据本发明的一个方面,提供一种头发化妆组合物,包含:
(a)约0.01%至约3%(重量)的凝胶剂,该凝胶剂含与C4-C16链二烯交联的甲基乙烯基醚/马来酐的共聚物或其水解产物;
(b)约0.1%至约10%(重量)的头发固定聚合物,该聚合物含非离子纤维素和二烯丙基二甲基氯化铵的阳离子共聚物;和
(c)余量包括适用于头发的载体。
本发明的必要组分以及任选组分描述如下。除非另外指明,所有含量与比例均基于重量。凝胶剂
以重量计,本发明的组合物含凝胶剂为约0.01%至约3%,优选为约0.05%至约2%,更优选约0.5%至约1.5%,最优选约0.6%至约1%。正是这种凝胶剂与一种阳离子头发固定聚合物的组合,才获得头发固定和头发调理的有益效果,而不存在通常与头发定型化妆品有关的湿粘干发感觉和手感粘滑。本发明适用的凝胶剂包括与C4-C16、优选C6-C12、更优选C8-C10链二烯交联的甲基乙烯基醚/马来酐的共聚物,以及其水解产物。凝胶剂通常具有的粘度范围为约50,000厘泊至约150,000厘泊,优选约70,000厘泊至约100,000厘泊(在pH7下以非醇溶剂中的0.5%凝胶剂测量;BrookfieldRVT Spindle TE,10rpm)。
以更广的意义讲,本发明所采用的共聚物包含与C4-C16、优选C6-C12、更优选C8-C10的链二烯(以后以B表示)交联的甲基乙烯基醚/马来酐的共聚物(以后以A表示)。合适的聚合物和它们的制备详细描述于“聚合物和增稠剂”(“Polymers and Thickners”)第108卷,1993年5月,p61-67,S.L.Kopolow,Y.T.Kwak和M.Helioff。这些聚合物含如上定义的A和B部分。在优选的实施方案中,B包含C6-C14链二烯、更优选为C6-C12链二烯、最优选C8-C10链二烯。
此处所用优选的凝胶剂是与1,9-癸二烯交联的甲基乙烯基醚/马来酐(PVM/MA癸二烯交联聚合物),它以Stabileze 06(RTM)从ISP获得。
此处所用凝胶剂优选采用至少部分中性的形式,以便能得到要求的发胶结构和头发化妆组合物的总pH。
凝胶剂可以用碱中和至含量约30%至约100%,优选为约40%至约98%,更优选约50%至约95%。任何通常使用的碱,无论有机碱或无机碱,可以用来中和酸性凝胶剂。在本头发化妆组合物中,适合用作中和剂的为碱金属和碱土金属的氢氧化物以及氨基醇。
可用于本发明头发化妆组合物中的合适的有机中和剂的例子包括:胺类,特别是氨基醇如2-氨基-2-甲基-1,3-丙二醇(AMPD)、2-氨基-2-乙基-1,3-丙二醇(AEPD)、2-氨基-2-甲基-1-丙醇(AMP)、2-氨基-1-丁醇(AB)、单乙醇胺(MFA)、二乙醇胺(DEA)、三乙醇胺(TEA)、单异丙醇胺(MIPA)、二异丙醇胺(DIPA)、三异丙醇胺(TIPA)、二甲基乙磺胺(DMS)和氨基甲基丙醇(AMP)及其混合物。
本发明组合物中优选采用的中和剂为氢氧化钾或氢氧化钠、氨基甲基丙醇(AMP)和三乙醇胺(TEA)及其混合物。
除上述详细说明的具体凝胶剂外,该组合物还可任选含有辅助凝胶剂,以重量计为约0.01%至约1%、优选约0.1%至约0.5%。合适的辅助凝胶剂可选自任何常规凝胶剂,例如交联的聚丙烯酸共聚物、乙烯马来酐共聚物或羟乙基纤维素及其衍生物。此处优选使用的辅助凝胶剂为羟乙基纤维素。载体。
本发明的头发化妆组合物也含有载体,它可为含水的或不含水的和其混合物。这可包含那些通常用于含头发化妆配方的聚合物中。在头发化妆组合物中,载体的含量以重量计通常为约70%至约99.89%、优选约78%至约99.5%。更优选地,以组合物总重量计,载体的含量约80%至99%。
适用于根据本发明组合物载体的有机溶剂包括C1-C6链烷醇、卡必醇、丙酮和它们的混合物。本发明组合物优选的C1-C6链烷醇为C2-C4单羟基醇例如乙醇、异丙醇和它们的混合物。
根据本发明的优选头发组合物含有作为载体的水,按重量计其含量为约70%至约99.89%,优选约78%至约99.5%,更优选约80%至约99%。阴离子头发固定聚合物
根据本发明的组合物除含有凝胶剂以外,还含有作为第二种必要组分的一种头发固定聚合物。该头发固定聚合物与凝胶剂共聚物一起优选溶解于或以胶体分散于头发化妆品载体中。
本发明的头发化妆组合物的优选头发固定聚合物组分含有羟乙基纤维素和二烯丙基二甲基氯化铵的阳离子共聚物,它在CTFA中命名为Polyquaternium 4,并且由National Starch and Chemical Ltd.以商品名CelquatL200(RTM)和Celquat H100(RTM)销售。
以组合物重量计,头发固定聚合物的含量为约0.1%至约10%、优选约0.3%至8%、更优选约0.5%至约6%、最优选约0.8%至约3%。本发明的组合物中,凝胶剂和头发固定聚合物的重量比范围为约10∶1至约1∶10。
与上述物料一起可在此处应用的其它头发固定聚合物包括任何可以溶于或以胶体分散于头发化妆载体的聚合物。在环境温度和压力下(25℃和101.3kPa(1atm))测定溶解度和分散度。这些聚合物可以是阳离子的或非离子的。此处适用的共聚物的分子量范围为约1,000至约5,000,000,优选约50,000至约4,000,000,更优选约100,000至约3,000,000,最优选约500,000至约2,000,000。
此外,阳离子和非离子树脂可以如下所详述被利用。此处适用的多阳离子头发调理聚合物树脂如下所述。此处为方便描述聚合物起见,聚合物中的单体单元可以指聚合物衍生的单体。阳离子单体可衍生于可聚合的阳离子起始单体,或可聚合的非离子单体,后者可以在聚合作用后改性为具有阳离子的特征。
这些阳离子不饱和单体以阳离子形式聚合,或者,它们可以以其前体形态聚合,然后改性为阳离子型,例如用季铵化剂(如单卤代乙酸乙酯、硫酸二甲酯等)。优选的阳离子单体包括二甲基氨基乙基异丁烯酸酯、季铵化的二甲基氨基乙基异丁烯酸酯、二烯丙基二甲基氯化铵、乙烯基咪唑季铵单体及其混合物。
非离子单体的代表性例子为C1-C24醇的丙烯酸或甲基丙烯酸酯,其中的醇可以为如甲醇、乙醇、1-丙醇、2-丙醇、1-丁醇、2-甲基-1-丙醇、1-戊醇、2-戊醇、3-戊醇、2-甲基-1-丁醇、1-甲基-1-丁醇、3-甲基-1-丁醇、1-甲基-1-戊醇、2-甲基-1-戊醇、3-甲基-1-戊醇、叔丁醇、环己醇、2-乙基-1-丁醇、3-庚醇、苄醇、2-辛醇、6-甲基-1-庚醇、2-乙基-1-己醇,3,5-二甲基-1-己醇、3,5,5-三甲基-1-己醇、1-癸醇、1-十二烷醇、1-十六烷醇、1-十八烷醇等等,具有1-24、优选约4-18、更优选约4-12个碳原子的醇类;苯乙烯;氯代苯乙烯;乙烯酯如乙酸乙烯酯;氯乙烯;1,1-二氯乙烯;丙烯腈;α-甲基苯乙烯;叔丁基苯乙烯;丁二烯;环己二烯;乙烯;丙烯;乙烯基甲苯;烷氧基烷基(甲基)丙烯酸酯,例如甲氧基乙基(甲基)丙烯酸酯和丁氧基乙基(甲基)丙烯酸酯;和它们的混合物。其它非离子单体包括丙烯酸酯和甲基丙烯酸酯的衍生物,如烯丙基的丙烯酸酯和甲基丙烯酸酯、环己基的丙烯酸酯和甲基丙烯酸酯、油基的丙烯酸酯和甲基丙烯酸酯、苄基的丙烯酸酯和甲基丙烯酸酯、四氢呋喃基的丙烯酸酯和甲基丙烯酸酯、乙二醇的二丙烯酸脂和二甲基丙烯酸酯、1,3-丁二醇的二丙烯酸酯和二甲基丙烯酸酯、二丙酮酰胺、异冰片基(甲基)丙烯酸酯等等。
优选的非离子单体包括甲基丙烯酸正丁酯、甲基丙烯酸异丁酯、甲基丙烯酸2-乙基己酯、甲基丙烯酸甲酯、丙烯酸叔丁酯、甲基丙烯酸叔丁酯及它们的混合物。
极性非离子单体的代表包括:丙烯酰胺、N,N-二甲基丙烯酰胺、甲基丙烯酰胺、N-叔丁基丙烯酰胺、甲基丙烯腈、丙烯酰胺、丙烯酸酯的醇(例如C2-C6丙烯酸酯的醇,如丙烯酸羟乙酯、丙烯酸羟丙酯)、甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯、甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯、乙烯基吡咯烷酮、乙烯醚如甲基乙烯基醚、酰基内酯和乙烯基吡啶、烯丙醇、乙烯基醇和乙烯基己内酰胺。
此处所用的优选的多阳离子聚合物树脂包括:阳离子瓜耳胶、阳离子多糖、二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵的均聚物、二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵与丙烯酰胺的共聚物;阳离子氨基官能的均聚物和衍生自丙烯酸和/或甲基丙烯酸,特别是烷基氨基烷基的丙烯酸酯和甲基丙烯酸酯单体如二甲基单乙基的丙烯酸酯和甲基丙烯酸酯、聚烯亚胺和乙氧基聚烯亚胺、乙烯基咪唑嗡盐/乙烯基吡咯烷酮季铵共聚物以及它们的混合物。
辅助头发固定聚合物掺入Polyquaternium 4,其含量以重量计约0.01%至约10%,优选约0.15%至约5%。Polyquat 4与辅助头发固定聚合物对良好发感具有一定价值,尤其是对剥落问题。
本发明组合物可以配制成留置型头发化妆组合物,例如发胶或发膏。本发明头发化妆组合物的制备方法将在实施例中详述。
本发明头发化妆组合物可以含一种螯合剂,其含量以重量计约0.01%至约5%、优选约0.5%至约3%及优选约0.08%至约1%。适合本发明组合物的螯合剂包括:乙二胺四乙酸盐包括乙二胺四乙酸、乙二胺四乙酸二钠和五乙酸五钠(pentasodium pentatate)。本发明组合物中优选的螯合剂为乙二胺四乙酸四钠。
本发明的头发化妆组合物也可含各种非必需的任选组分,例如防腐剂、表面活性剂、嵌段聚合物、增稠剂和粘度调节剂、电解质、脂肪醇、pH调节剂、香料油;紫外线防护剂;头发调理剂、珠光剂、润肤剂;润滑剂和渗透剂如各种羊毛脂组分;蛋白水解液和其它蛋白衍生物;乙烯加合物和聚氧乙烯胆固醇;挥发性和非挥发性硅氧烷液体。这些常规任选组分对本领域技术人员是已知的,如用作香料稳定剂的表面活性剂,例如阳离子型(如烷基硫酸钠);非离子型(如胺的氧化物);两性型(脂族仲胺或叔胺衍生物);两性离子型(脂族季胺;鏻或锍衍生物)和氟化的表面活性剂(如Zonyl FSK)(RTM),此处优选的表面活性剂为非离子型的如聚乙二醇脂肪酸酯、异十八烷基聚氧乙烯(20)(isosteareth-20)、Polysorbate-20、聚丙二醇(12)聚乙二醇(65)(PPG-12-PEG-65)羊毛脂油、聚乙二醇(40)(PEG-40)氢化蓖麻油、失水山梨醇聚氧乙烯(20)(Polysorbate 80)、油基聚氧乙烯(20)(Oleth 20)和Nonoxynol-10、增稠剂和粘度调节剂如长链脂肪酸的二乙醇酰胺、氯化钠、硫酸钠和乙醇;环氧乙烷和环氧丙烷的嵌段聚合物,如BASF Wyandotte提供的Pluronic(RTM)F88;防腐剂如DMDM hydantoin、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯、对羟基苯甲酸丙酯和diaxolidinyl脲;脂肪醇例如十六/十八烷醇(cetearyl alcohol);电解质如碱金属和碱土金属的盐;季铵离子和阳离子胺和卤离子;pH调节剂如柠檬酸、丁二酸、氢氧化钠和三乙醇胺;香料油例如Florasynth(RTM)香料;头发调理剂例如panthenol/antyl B、珠光剂例如乙二醇二硬脂酸脂和云母,紫外线屏蔽剂例如二苯酮-4和二苯酮-10。以组合物重量计,每种这些任选物料的含量为约0.01%至约5%、优选约0.05%至约3%、最优选约0.08%至约1%。
本发明的头发化妆组合物用常规方式提供本发明的头发定型/保持的益处,并且没有发粘的发感和手感。这些方法涉及头发定型之前或之后,或定型前后都用有效量的产品干燥或弄湿发头。“有效量”指这样一种量,它考虑到头发的长度和质地而足以提供理想的头发体积和发型的益处。本发明的头发化妆组合物可用手、梳子或刷子或用海绵或“涂抹”有效地施用于头发上。
以下非限制性实施例用来说明本发明。
凝胶剂              -       Stablileze 06(RTM)
中和剂              -       三乙醇胺(TEA)
头发固定聚合物A     -       Polyquaternium 4(RTM)
头发固定聚合物B     -       PVP/VA
螯合剂              -       乙二胺四乙酸四钠
                            EDTA(Na)4
实施例                  I          II         III
Stabileze 06           0.6         0.4        0.3
Carbomer 980/201        -          0.2
TEA                    0.6         0.6        0.3
Polyquat 4            1.0       0.5       1.0
PVP/VA                 -        0.5       0.5
EDTA(Na)4            0.1       0.1       0.1
乙醇                   -         -        10.0
水                    至平衡    至平衡    至平衡
本头发化妆组合物的制备如下:(a)将凝胶剂分散于水中,用足够时间(30分钟至1小时)来使凝胶剂进行水合作用,然后用合适的碱部分中和凝胶剂;和(b)在一个单独步骤中,将头发固定聚合物与所有非必要任选成分和螯合剂溶于水中。将预混物(a)和(b)混和,所得混合物用剩余的中和碱调节至理想的粘度和pH值。
上述组合物可有效保持发型,提供头发调理效果,并且有较低的发粘的手感和发感。

Claims (14)

1、一种头发化妆组合物,包含:
(a)0.01%至3%重量的凝胶剂,该凝胶剂含与C4-C16链二烯交联的甲基乙烯基醚/马来酐的共聚物或其水解产物;
(b)0.1%至10%重量的头发固定聚合物,该聚合物含非离子纤维素和二烯丙基二甲基氯化铵的阳离子共聚物;和
(c)余量包括适用于头发的载体。
2、权利要求1的头发化妆组合物,其中的凝胶剂的粘度范围在25℃为70,000厘泊至100,000厘泊。
3、权利要求1或2的头发化妆组合物,其中的凝胶剂含量以重量计为0.05%至2%。
4、权利要求1或2的头发化妆组合物,其中的凝胶剂可以用碱中和至含量30%至95%。
5、权利要求4的头发化妆组合物,其中的碱选自碱金属、碱土金属和铵的氢氧化物,胺和氨基醇及其混合物。
6、权利要求5的头发化妆组合物,其中的碱选自三乙醇胺、氢氧化钠及其混合物。
7、权利要求1的头发化妆组合物,其中的阳离子共聚物的重均分子量范围为1,000至5,000,000。
8、权利要求1的头发化妆组合物,其中的阳离子共聚物含羟乙基纤维素和二烯丙基二甲基氯化铵的共聚物。
9、权利要求1的头发化妆组合物,其中的头发固定聚合物以重量计含量为0.5%至8%。
10、权利要求1的头发化妆组合物,其中的凝胶剂和头发固定聚合物的重量比范围为10∶1至1∶10。
11、权利要求1的头发化妆组合物,其中的载体系统含有水和选自C1-C6链烷醇、二醇、多醇、卡必醇、丙酮及其混合物的任选的有机溶剂。
12、权利要求1的头发化妆组合物,其中的凝胶剂共聚合物交联剂选自C4-C16链二烯。
13、权利要求12的头发化妆组合物,其中的凝胶剂共聚合物交联剂为1,9-癸二烯。
14、权利要求1的头发化妆组合物,其中的凝胶剂为甲基乙烯基醚/马来酐与1,9-癸二烯交联的共聚物。
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