CN1086936C - Hair cosmetic compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

A hair care composition comprising: (a) from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight of gelling agent comprising a copolymer of methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride, cross-linked with C4-C16 alkadiene of hydrolysis products thereof; (b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of hair fixative copolymer comprising a cationic copolymer of nonionic cellulose and diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; and the balance comprising a carrier suitable for application to hair. The liquid hair cosmetic products have an improved non-tacky on-hair and on-hand feel, demonstrate excellent hair styling benefits in addition to ease of brush-out.

Description

hair makeup composition

The present invention relates to hair cosmetic compositions. More specifically, the present invention relates to hair cosmetic compositions that, in addition to detangling performance and style hold benefits, contain gelling agents and hair fixative/hair conditioning polymers and have improved "in use" and "on hair" feel feature.

Keeping hair in a specific shape is a widespread need. One common method for this purpose is to use hair styling, or to apply a setting composition to the hair, usually wet or dry. These compositions provide temporary hair hold and are removable with water and/or shampoo. Compositions providing hair fixation benefits generally use materials in the form of mousses, gels, lotions or sprays.

Whether using a hair gel or spray, it is generally desirable for hair compositions to provide a high level of style hold. Style hold in hairspray products is generally achieved by employing one or more hair fixative polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and copolymers of PVP and vinyl acetate (PVP/VA) in combination with a gelling agent. One commonly used gelling agent is cross-linked polyacrylic acid, named Carbomer in CTFA. When such polymers are incorporated into hair fixative compositions containing conventional gelling agents, they can provide suitable style retention characteristics. However, such compositions can create a sticky feel to the hair and hands during and after use, and can also cause the hair to feel stiff and unnatural.

It has now been discovered that certain combinations of gelling agents and hair fixative polymers can provide superior styling benefits without the sticky and stiff feel commonly associated with conventional hair styling gels.

A need therefore exists for a hair styling composition that provides effective style hold, provides hair conditioning benefits, is non-stiff on hair and hands, can be easily rinsed off, resists flaking and has a stable Excellent product and viscosity characteristics, and can remain completely stable under long-term and strict storage temperature.

According to one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a hair cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) from about 0.01% to about 3% by weight of a gelling agent comprising a copolymer of methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride crosslinked with a C ₄ -C ₁₆ alkadiene or hydrolyzed thereof product;

(b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a hair fixative polymer comprising a cationic copolymer of nonionic cellulose and diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and

(c) The balance includes the carrier applied to the hair.

The essential components and optional components of the present invention are described below. All contents and ratios are by weight unless otherwise indicated. gel

The compositions of the present invention contain from about 0.01% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 2%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, most preferably from about 0.6% to about 1% by weight of gelling agent. %. It is the combination of this gelling agent and a cationic hair fixative polymer that achieves the hair fixation and hair conditioning benefits without the tacky wet dry hair feel and sticky handle typically associated with hair styling cosmetics. Gels suitable for use in the present invention include methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers crosslinked with C ₄ -C ₁₆ , preferably C ₆ -C ₁₂ , more preferably C ₈ -C ₁₀ alkadiene, and other Hydrolyzate. Gels generally have a viscosity in the range of about 50,000 centipoise to about 150,000 centipoise, preferably about 70,000 centipoise to about 100,000 centipoise (measured as 0.5% gelling agent in a non-alcoholic solvent at pH 7; Brookfield RVT Spindle TE, 10rpm).

In a broader sense, the copolymers used in the present invention comprise formazan cross-linked with C ₄ -C ₁₆ , preferably C ₆ -C ₁₂ , more preferably C ₈ -C ₁₀ alkadiene (hereinafter denoted by B). vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymer (hereinafter referred to as A). Suitable polymers and their preparation are described in detail in "Polymers and Thickners" Vol. 108, May 1993, p. 61-67, SL Kopolow, YT Kwak and M. Helioff. These polymers contain A and B moieties as defined above. In a preferred embodiment, B comprises a C ₆ -C ₁₄ alkadiene, more preferably a C ₆ -C ₁₂ alkadiene, most preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₀ alkadiene.

A preferred gelling agent for use herein is methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride crosslinked with 1,9-decadiene (PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer), available as Stabileze 06 (RTM) from ISP obtained.

The gelling agents used herein are preferably in an at least partially neutral form, so that the desired structure of the hairspray and the overall pH of the hair cosmetic composition can be obtained.

The gelling agent may be neutralized with base to a level of from about 30% to about 100%, preferably from about 40% to about 98%, more preferably from about 50% to about 95%. Any commonly used base, whether organic or inorganic, can be used to neutralize the acidic gelling agent. Suitable as neutralizing agents in the present hair cosmetic compositions are alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides and aminoalcohols.

Examples of suitable organic neutralizing agents which may be used in the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention include: amines, especially aminoalcohols such as 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol (AMPD), 2-amino- 2-Ethyl-1,3-propanediol (AEPD), 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (AMP), 2-amino-1-butanol (AB), monoethanolamine (MFA), di Ethanolamine (DEA), Triethanolamine (TEA), Monoisopropanolamine (MIPA), Diisopropanolamine (DIPA), Triisopropanolamine (TIPA), Dimethylsulfonamide (DMS) and Aminomethyl Propanol (AMP) and mixtures thereof.

Preferred neutralizing agents for use in the compositions of the present invention are potassium or sodium hydroxide, aminomethylpropanol (AMP) and triethanolamine (TEA) and mixtures thereof.

In addition to the specific gelling agents specified above, the composition may optionally contain a secondary gelling agent at a level of from about 0.01% to about 1%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, by weight. Suitable co-gelling agents may be selected from any conventional gelling agents such as cross-linked polyacrylic acid copolymers, ethylene maleic anhydride copolymers or hydroxyethylcellulose and its derivatives. A preferred co-gelling agent for use herein is hydroxyethyl cellulose. carrier.

The hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention also contain a carrier, which may be aqueous or non-aqueous and mixtures thereof. This may include those polymers commonly used in hair-containing cosmetic formulations. In hair cosmetic compositions, the carrier will generally comprise from about 70% to about 99.89%, preferably from about 78% to about 99.5%, by weight. More preferably, the carrier comprises from about 80% to about 99% by weight of the total composition.

Organic solvents suitable for use as carriers in compositions according to the invention include C ₁ -C ₆ alkanols, carbitol, acetone and mixtures thereof. Preferred _C1 - _C6 alkanols for the compositions of the present invention are _C2 - _C4 monohydric alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.

Preferred hair compositions according to the present invention contain water as a carrier at a level of from about 70% to about 99.89%, preferably from about 78% to about 99.5%, more preferably from about 80% to about 99%, by weight. Anionic Hair Fixative Polymers

The compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the gelling agent, a hair-fixing polymer as a second essential component. The hair-fixing polymer together with the gelling agent copolymer is preferably dissolved or colloidally dispersed in the hair cosmetic carrier.

The preferred hair fixative polymer component of the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprises a cationic copolymer of hydroxyethylcellulose and diallyldimethylammonium chloride, which is named Polyquaternium 4 in the CTFA and is approved by National Starch and Chemical Ltd. under the trade names Celquat L200 (RTM) and Celquat H100 (RTM).

Hair fixative polymers comprise from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.3% to 8%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 6%, most preferably from about 0.8% to about 3%, by weight of the composition. In the compositions of the present invention, the weight ratio of gelling agent to hair fixative polymer ranges from about 10:1 to about 1:10.

Other hair fixative polymers useful herein in conjunction with the above materials include any polymer which can be dissolved or colloidally dispersed in a hair cosmetic carrier. Solubility and dispersibility were determined at ambient temperature and pressure (25°C and 101.3 kPa (1 atm)). These polymers can be cationic or nonionic. Copolymers useful herein have a molecular weight ranging from about 1,000 to about 5,000,000, preferably from about 50,000 to about 4,000,000, more preferably from about 100,000 to about 3,000,000, most preferably from about 500,000 to about 2,000,000.

Additionally, cationic and nonionic resins can be utilized as detailed below. The polycationic hair conditioning polymer resins useful herein are described below. Here, for the convenience of describing the polymer, the monomer unit in the polymer may refer to the monomer derived from the polymer. Cationic monomers can be derived from polymerizable cationic starter monomers, or polymerizable nonionic monomers which can be modified after polymerization to have cationic character.

These cationic unsaturated monomers are polymerized in cationic form, alternatively, they can be polymerized in their precursor form and then modified to be cationic, for example with quaternizing agents (such as ethyl monohaloacetate, dimethyl sulfate, etc.) . Preferred cationic monomers include dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, vinylimidazole quaternary ammonium monomers, and mixture.

Representative examples of nonionic monomers are acrylic or methacrylic esters of C ₁ -C ₂₄ alcohols, where the alcohols can be, for example, methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, 1-butanol, 2- Methyl-1-propanol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 3-pentanol, 2-methyl-1-butanol, 1-methyl-1-butanol, 3-methyl-1- Butanol, 1-methyl-1-pentanol, 2-methyl-1-pentanol, 3-methyl-1-pentanol, tert-butanol, cyclohexanol, 2-ethyl-1-butanol , 3-heptanol, benzyl alcohol, 2-octanol, 6-methyl-1-heptanol, 2-ethyl-1-hexanol, 3,5-dimethyl-1-hexanol, 3,5 , 5-trimethyl-1-hexanol, 1-decanol, 1-dodecanol, 1-hexadecanol, 1-octadecyl alcohol, etc., with 1-24, preferably about 4-18 , more preferably alcohols of about 4-12 carbon atoms; styrene; chlorinated styrene; vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate; vinyl chloride; 1,1-dichloroethylene; acrylonitrile; tert-butylstyrene; butadiene; cyclohexadiene; ethylene; propylene; vinyltoluene; alkoxyalkyl (meth)acrylates such as methoxyethyl (meth)acrylate and butoxy ethyl (meth)acrylate; and mixtures thereof. Other nonionic monomers include acrylate and methacrylate derivatives such as allyl acrylate and methacrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and methacrylate, oleyl acrylate and methacrylate esters, benzyl acrylates and methacrylates, tetrahydrofuranyl acrylates and methacrylates, ethylene glycol diacrylates and dimethacrylates, 1,3-butanediol diacrylates and Dimethacrylate, diacetonamide, isobornyl (meth)acrylate, and the like.

Preferred nonionic monomers include n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate and their mixture.

Representatives of polar nonionic monomers include: acrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, methacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, methacrylonitrile, acrylamide, acrylated alcohols (e.g. C ₂ -C ₆ acrylated alcohols, such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, hydroxypropyl acrylate), hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers such as methyl vinyl ether, acyl Lactone and Vinylpyridine, Allyl Alcohol, Vinyl Alcohol and Vinylcaprolactam.

Preferred polycationic polymer resins for use herein include: cationic guar gum, cationic polysaccharides, homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, mixtures of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide Copolymers; cationic amino-functional homopolymers and acrylate and methacrylate monomers derived from acrylic and/or methacrylic acid, especially alkylaminoalkyl, such as dimethyl monoethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid acrylates, polyalkyleneimines and ethoxylated polyalkyleneimines, vinylimidazolium/vinylpyrrolidone quaternary ammonium copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

The auxiliary hair fixative polymer incorporates Polyquaternium 4 at a level of from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.15% to about 5%, by weight. Polyquat 4 with secondary hair-fixing polymers has some value for good hair feel, especially for flaking issues.

The compositions of the present invention may be formulated as leave-on hair cosmetic compositions, such as hair sprays or creams. The preparation method of the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention will be described in detail in the examples.

The hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention may contain a chelating agent at a level of from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 3%, and preferably from about 0.08% to about 1%, by weight. Chelating agents suitable for the compositions of the present invention include: EDTA salts including EDTA, disodium EDTA and pentasodium pentatate. A preferred chelating agent in the compositions of the present invention is tetrasodium edetate.

The hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention may also contain various optional components such as preservatives, surfactants, block polymers, thickeners and viscosity regulators, electrolytes, fatty alcohols, pH regulators, Perfume oils; UV protectants; hair conditioners, pearlizing agents, emollients; lubricants and penetrants such as various lanolin components; protein hydrolysates and other protein derivatives; ethylene adducts and polyoxyethylene cholesterols; Volatile and non-volatile silicone fluids. Such conventional optional components are known to those skilled in the art, such as surfactants used as perfume stabilizers, such as cationic (such as sodium alkyl sulfate); nonionic (such as amine oxide); amphoteric (aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives); zwitterionic (aliphatic quaternary amine; phosphonium or sulfonium derivatives) and fluorinated surfactants (such as Zonyl FSK) (RTM), preferred surfactants here Non-ionic such as polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester, isostearyl polyoxyethylene (20) (isosteareth-20), Polysorbate-20, polypropylene glycol (12) polyethylene glycol (65) (PPG- 12-PEG-65) Lanolin Oil, Polyethylene Glycol (40) (PEG-40) Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sorbitan Polyoxyethylene (20) (Polysorbate 80), Oleyl Polyoxyethylene (20) (Oleth 20) and Nonoxynol-10, thickeners and viscosity modifiers such as diethanolamides of long-chain fatty acids, sodium chloride, sodium sulfate and ethanol; block polymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, as supplied by BASF Wyandotte Pluronic (RTM) F88; preservatives such as DMDM hydantoin, methylparaben, propylparaben and diaxolidinyl urea; fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol; electrolytes such as alkali metals and Salts of alkaline earth metals; quaternary ammonium and cationic amines and halides; pH adjusters such as citric acid, succinic acid, sodium hydroxide and triethanolamine; fragrance oils such as Florasynth (RTM) fragrance; hair conditioners such as panthenol/antyl B , pearlizing agents such as ethylene glycol distearate and mica, and ultraviolet shielding agents such as benzophenone-4 and benzophenone-10. These optional materials each comprise from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 3%, most preferably from about 0.08% to about 1%, by weight of the composition.

The hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention provide the hair styling/holding benefits of the present invention in a conventional manner without tacky feel and handle. These methods involve drying or wetting the hair with an effective amount of product before or after the hair is styled, or both. "Effective amount"means an amount sufficient to provide the desired hair volume and style benefits having regard to hair length and texture. The hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention can be effectively applied to the hair by hand, with a comb or brush, or with a sponge or "apply".

The following non-limiting examples serve to illustrate the invention.

Gel - Stablileze 06(RTM)

Neutralizer - Triethanolamine (TEA)

Hair Fix Polymer A - Polyquaternium 4(RTM)

Hair Fix Polymer B - PVP/VA

Chelating Agents - Tetrasodium EDTA

EDTA(Na) ₄

Example I II II III

Stabileze 06 0.6 0.4 0.3

Carbomer 980/201 - 0.2

TEA 0.6 0.6 0.3

Polyquat 4 1.0 0.5 1.0

PVP/VA - 0.5 0.5

EDTA(Na) ₄ 0.1 0.1 0.1

Ethanol - 10.0

water to balance to balance to balance

The present hair cosmetic composition is prepared as follows: (a) disperse the gelling agent in water, allow sufficient time (30 minutes to 1 hour) for the hydration of the gelling agent, and then partially neutralize the gelling agent with a suitable base and (b) in a separate step, dissolving the hair fixative polymer in water with all optional optional ingredients and a chelating agent. The premixes (a) and (b) are mixed and the resulting mixture is adjusted to the desired viscosity and pH with the remaining neutralizing base.

The above compositions provide effective hold, provide hair conditioning benefits, and have a low tacky feel and feel.

Claims (14)

1. A hair cosmetic composition comprising: (a) 0.01% to 3% by weight of a gelling agent containing a copolymer of methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride crosslinked with C ₄ -C ₁₆ alkadienes or a hydrolyzate thereof; (b) 0.1% to 10% by weight of a hair fixative polymer comprising a cationic copolymer of nonionic cellulose and diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and (c) The balance includes the carrier applied to the hair. 2. The hair cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the gelling agent has a viscosity in the range of 70,000 centipoise to 100,000 centipoise at 25°C. 3. The hair cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the content of the gelling agent is 0.05% to 2% by weight. 4. The hair cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the gelling agent can be neutralized with alkali to a content of 30% to 95%. 5. A hair cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the base is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium hydroxides, amines and aminoalcohols and mixtures thereof. 6. The hair cosmetic composition of Claim 5 wherein the base is selected from the group consisting of triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and mixtures thereof. 7. The hair cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the cationic copolymer has a weight average molecular weight in the range of 1,000 to 5,000,000. 8. The hair cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the cationic copolymer comprises a copolymer of hydroxyethylcellulose and diallyldimethylammonium chloride. 9. The hair cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the hair fixative polymer is present in an amount of 0.5% to 8% by weight. 10. The hair cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the gelling agent and the hair fixing polymer is in the range of 10:1 to 1:10. 11. The hair cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the carrier system comprises water and an optional organic solvent selected from the group consisting of _C1 - _C6 alkanols, diols, polyols, carbitols, acetone and mixtures thereof. 12. The hair cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the gelling agent copolymer crosslinker is selected from C ₄ -C ₁₆ alkadienes. 13. The hair cosmetic composition of claim 12 wherein the gelling agent copolymer crosslinker is 1,9-decadiene. 14. The hair cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the gelling agent is a cross-linked copolymer of methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride and 1,9-decadiene.