CN108670891B

CN108670891B - Anti-aging skin moisturizer

Info

Publication number: CN108670891B
Application number: CN201810720455.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 谭运寿; 谭家安; 周万猛
Original assignee: Hainan Houchen Biotechnology Co ltd
Current assignee: Hainan Houchen Biotechnology Co ltd
Priority date: 2018-07-03
Filing date: 2018-07-03
Publication date: 2021-05-18
Anticipated expiration: 2038-07-03
Also published as: CN108670891A

Abstract

The invention discloses anti-aging skin oil, and belongs to the field of skin care products. The anti-aging skin moistening oil comprises an oil base added with an antioxidant, the oil base is modified by a homogenizing agent, and then an astringent is added to prepare the anti-aging skin moistening oil, the oil base comprises pomelo oil, the content of the pomelo oil in the oil base is more than or equal to 50%, and the antioxidant comprises polysaccharide and 24-methylene cycloartanol. The anti-aging skin moistening oil disclosed by the invention takes the pomelo oil as an oil base, effectively utilizes the superior anti-oxidation characteristic of the pomelo oil in the oil base, has good use sensory experience, can effectively reduce the loss of moisturizing factors in dermis, maintains the functions of elastic fibers and collagen fibers in the dermis, avoids the reduction of skin tension and elasticity, and has the characteristics of delaying the aging characteristics of wrinkles, tarnished skin and the like of the skin.

Description

Anti-aging skin moisturizer

Technical Field

The invention relates to a skin care product, in particular to anti-aging skin moistening oil.

Background

With the increase of age and living pressure, the metabolism of human skin is slowed down, the moisturizing factor in the dermis is reduced, the functions of elastic fiber and collagen fiber in the dermis are reduced, the skin tension and elasticity are weakened, and the skin has the aging characteristics of wrinkles, dull skin and the like. The aged skin is inferior to the young and plump skin in sense, and people are continuously searching skin care products with good anti-aging capability to delay the appearance time of skin aging characteristics under the drive of female beauty love.

The skin moistening oil is an oily product for moistening and protecting skin, but the oily skin care product is difficult to absorb, thick on the surface of the skin, poor in comfort degree during use, poor in facial sensory experience due to the fact that the oily skin care product is heavy, and poor in use experience, so that the skin care product with the skin moistening oil rarely exists.

The pomelo oil is pure natural vegetable oil extracted from pomelo seeds, mainly comprises unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid and a small amount of saturated fatty acids, wherein the unsaturated fatty acids are 85-97%, the content of the unsaturated fatty acids mainly comprises 72-90% of oleic acid and 7-14% of linoleic acid, and the content of the saturated fatty acids is about 10%. In addition, it also contains polysaccharide, phenolic compounds, vitamin E, C, A, D, vitamin B, mineral elements (such as potassium, zinc, selenium, etc.), amino acids, tea saponin, squalene, etc.

The unsaturated fatty acid component in the pomelo oil is similar to that of human milk, wherein the contents of linoleic acid and linolenic acid are almost the same as those of the human milk, so that the pomelo oil is easily absorbed by the skin, a hydrophobic film can be formed on the surface of the skin, and the pomelo oil can effectively prevent external substances from invading while endowing the skin with softness, lubrication and glossiness; inhibiting water evaporation, preventing skin chapping, rehydrating dry skin and hardened stratum corneum, restoring the softness and elasticity of stratum corneum, making skin soft and smooth, and promoting skin health. The pomelo oil also contains natural vitamin E and squalene, and has good oxidation resistance and free radical scavenging capability; and the antioxidant and the membrane stabilizer which are also the weight in the cell membrane have the functions of expanding capillary vessels and improving blood circulation. The fatty acid distribution of the pomelo oil is close to that of human skin, the pomelo oil is easy to absorb by the skin and has no greasy feeling, and the tea oil also contains rich tea polyphenol, tea saponin and other bactericidal and antipruritic components. Therefore, the pomelo oil can be used as an excellent cosmetic raw material to develop an excellent cosmetic.

But in fact, because the antioxidation effect of the shaddock oil has a larger difference compared with that of the vitamin E, when the dosage of the shaddock oil is lower, the antioxidation effect is not obvious, and when the dosage of the shaddock oil is higher, the problem of poor use experience of an oily skin care product exists, so the application of the shaddock oil in an actual product is very little.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to: aiming at the existing problems, the anti-aging skin-moistening oil which takes the pomelo oil as the oil base, effectively utilizes the superior anti-oxidation characteristic of the pomelo oil in the oil base, has good use sensory experience, can effectively reduce the loss of moisturizing factors in the dermis, maintains the functions of elastic fibers and collagen fibers in the dermis, avoids the reduction of skin tension and elasticity, and delays the aging characteristics of wrinkles, tarnish skin and the like of the skin is provided.

The technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows:

the anti-aging skin moistening oil comprises an oil base added with an antioxidant, the oil base is modified by a homogenizing agent, and then an astringent is added to prepare the anti-aging skin moistening oil, the oil base comprises pomelo oil, the content of the pomelo oil in the oil base is more than or equal to 50%, and the antioxidant comprises polysaccharide and 24-methylene cycloartanol.

The anti-aging emollient oil disclosed by the invention has a film-forming property, the viscosity coefficient is less than 10, and the free radical elimination rate is more than 60%.

By adopting the technical scheme, after the pomelo oil is used as the oil base, the skin moistening oil has good film forming property by adding the polysaccharide and the 24-methylene cycloartanol, so that the easy flowability of the oil is reduced, and after the pomelo oil is smeared, a uniform film can be quickly formed on the surface of the skin, so that the water evaporation on the surface of the skin is reduced, and the loss of moisturizing factors in the dermis is reduced; meanwhile, the product has a low viscosity coefficient, and can ensure the refreshing feeling in use.

The pomelo oil has certain relationship with the lipid-water distribution coefficient and molecular weight of the effective substances in cosmetics, and has better permeation promoting effect on substances with stronger lipophilicity than hydrophilic substances. 24-methylene cycloartanol is not a skin care product additive which is commonly used in the prior art, and the oxidation resistance of 24-methylene cycloartanol is weaker, but the substance has excellent fat solubility, and the pomelo oil dissolved with the 24-methylene cycloartanol has the advantage that the penetration promoting effect of the pomelo oil on hydrophilic substances is improved due to the action of alcohol groups and molecules, so that active substances in the skin care oil can better penetrate the skin surface layer, and meanwhile, the film forming property of the pomelo oil is combined, so that the skin care oil is free of oily feeling, refreshing and non-greasy, and has good sensory experience.

Preferably, the shaddock oil is winterized shaddock oil, wherein the fatty acid mainly comprises oleic acid, linoleic acid and a small amount of saturated fatty acid, and the content of the oleic acid is more than 77%.

Preferably, the antioxidant, the oil base, the homogenizing agent and the astringent are as follows in parts by mass: 0.7-4 parts of antioxidant, 80-110 parts of oil base, 10-20 parts of homogenizing agent and 1-5 parts of astringent.

Further, the antioxidant, the oil base, the homogenizing agent and the astringent are as follows in parts by mass: 3 parts of antioxidant, 98 parts of oil base, 17 parts of homogenizing agent and 1 part of astringent.

The addition of the homogenizing agent can improve the intermolecular polarity of the oil base, so that the compatibility of the oil base is improved, the viscosity of an oil base system is improved, the fluidity of the oil base system is improved, and the greasy feeling of the emollient oil is greatly reduced, wherein the homogenizing agent is a mixture of stigmasterol, 2, 4-di-tert-butylphenol and erucamide.

Preferably, the homogenizing agent consists of 0.5-3 parts by mass of stigmasterol, 4-9 parts by mass of 2, 4-di-tert-butylphenol and 0.1-0.7 part by mass of erucamide.

Further, the homogenizing agent is composed of 0.7 part by mass of stigmasterol, 5 parts by mass of 2, 4-di-tert-butylphenol and 0.1 part by mass of erucamide.

The anti-aging skin moistening oil provided by the invention is prepared from sargassum fusiforme polysaccharide extract and levoglucosan.

Due to the adoption of the technical scheme, the sargassum fusiforme polysaccharide extract has good antioxidant activity and also has strong moisture absorption capacity and moisture retention capacity, but is less in practical application of skin care products, and the main reason is that the practical use effect of the sargassum fusiforme polysaccharide extract is not substantially improved compared with the polysaccharide such as hyaluronic acid. However, the sargassum fusiforme polysaccharide extract contains more D-mannuronic acid polymers combined by beta-1, 4 bonds and a small amount of fucoidan sulfate consisting of L-fucose and sulfate radicals, and the two substances can form intermolecular crosslinking with the sasanquasaponin, oleic acid, quercetin and 3-0-acyl quercetin in the pomelo oil, and are combined with the film-forming property of the two substances, so that the active substances of the pomelo oil can continuously act, and the pomelo oil has better antioxidant performance.

The anti-aging skin moistening oil disclosed by the invention is characterized in that the antioxidant consists of vitamin E, squalene and/or squalane, a sargassum fusiforme polysaccharide extract, levoglucosan and 24-methylene cycloartanol.

Due to the adoption of the technical scheme, the vitamin E is a good antioxidant, the anti-aging performance of the skin oil can be improved, and meanwhile, the modified pomelo oil (added with polysaccharide and 24-methylene cycloartanol) is used as an oil base, so that the antioxidant performance of the vitamin E can be well exerted. The squalene and squalane are substances which are closest to the natural secretion of grease of a human body, have excellent skin-friendly performance, have low content of squalene contained in the pomelo oil, and can well improve the permeability of active substances in the skin moistening oil by increasing the content of the squalene.

Preferably, the antioxidant comprises 3-5 parts of vitamin E, 3-5 parts of squalene and/or squalane, 13-25 parts of sargassum fusiforme polysaccharide extract, 13-25 parts of levoglucosan and 4-10 parts of 24-methylene cycloartanol by mass.

Further, the antioxidant comprises 5 parts by mass of vitamin E, 5 parts by mass of squalene and/or squalane, 20 parts by mass of sargassum fusiforme polysaccharide extract, 20 parts by mass of levoglucosan and 7 parts by mass of 24-methylene cycloartenol.

The vitamin E is fat-soluble vitamin E.

Due to the adoption of the technical scheme, the vitamin E can be modified into fat-soluble and water-soluble vitamin E, the permeability of the skin care product can be improved by adding the water-soluble vitamin E into the skin care product, but the oil base is adopted in the invention, and the fat-soluble vitamin E can better exert the antioxidant performance of the skin care product compared with the water-soluble vitamin E under the action of squalane/squalane and 24-methylene cycloartanol.

The anti-aging skin moistening oil disclosed by the invention is composed of pomelo oil, plukenetia volubilis oil and caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Due to the adoption of the technical scheme, the viscosity of the plukenetia volubilis linneo oil and the caprylic/capric triglyceride is low, the heavy feeling of the emollient oil can be reduced, and the caprylic/capric triglyceride is a commonly used emollient in cosmetics, has good compatibility with other solvents, low viscosity, good skin feeling experience, high safety and low price.

Preferably, the oil base consists of 40-60 parts by mass of the shaddock oil, 20-35 parts by mass of the plukenetia volubilis linneo oil and 15-27 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride, and the total parts by mass of the plukenetia volubilis linneo oil and the caprylic/capric triglyceride is less than or equal to the parts by mass of the shaddock oil.

Further, the oil base consists of 52 parts by mass of pomelo oil, 26 parts by mass of plukenetia volubilis oil and 20 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The pomelo oil is subjected to decoloration treatment.

Due to the adoption of the technical scheme, the skin moistening oil is clear and bright in color and good in sensory perception.

The anti-aging skin moisturizer is decolorized by an enzyme method.

By adopting the technical scheme, no matter physical decolorization or chemical decolorization is carried out, part of active ingredients in the pomelo oil can be lost in the decolorization process, but the decolorization can be effectively carried out through an enzymatic method, and the loss of the active ingredients can not be caused.

The anti-aging skin oil is prepared from tea tree essential oil as an astringent.

Due to the adoption of the technical scheme, the tea tree essential oil contains the triterpenoids, has the effects of astringing skin, sterilizing and diminishing inflammation, and the prepared skin moistening oil has special fragrance and good use sense.

In summary, due to the adoption of the technical scheme, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

1. the pomelo oil is used as the oil base, the superior antioxidant property of the pomelo oil in the oil base is effectively utilized, the good use sensory experience is realized, the loss of moisturizing factors in the dermis can be effectively reduced, the functions of elastic fibers and collagen fibers in the dermis are maintained, the skin tension and elasticity are prevented from being weakened, and the aging characteristics of wrinkles, tarnish skin and the like of the skin are delayed.

2. The pomelo oil dissolved with the 24-methylene cycloartanol has the advantages that the penetration promoting effect of the pomelo oil on hydrophilic substances is improved due to the acting force between alcohol groups and molecules, so that active substances in the skin oil can better penetrate the surface layer of skin, and the film forming property of the pomelo oil is combined, so that the skin oil is free of oily feeling, fresh and non-greasy, and has good sensory experience.

3. The sargassum fusiforme polysaccharide extract contains more D-mannuronic acid polymers combined by beta-1, 4 bonds and a small amount of fucoidan sulfate consisting of L-fucose and sulfate radicals, and the two substances can form intermolecular crosslinking with camellia saponin, oleic acid, quercetin and 3-0-acyl quercetin in the pomelo oil, and are combined with the film forming property of the two substances, so that the active substances of the pomelo oil can continuously act, and the extract has better antioxidant performance.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be described in detail below.

In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, the present invention is further described in detail with reference to the following embodiments. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the invention and are not intended to limit the invention.

Example 1 winterization and decolorization of grapefruit oil

Taking a proper amount of pomelo seeds, and obtaining the pomelo oil by adopting a deodorization distillation method, namely, after obtaining crude pomelo oil by adopting modes of soaking, squeezing and the like, obtaining distillate by adopting a rectification method, and deodorizing in vacuum, wherein the extraction method is the same as the prior art.

Except that the crude shaddock oil was decolorized by a biological decolorization method prior to rectification. The biological decolorization steps are as follows: placing an oil product to be decolorized in a container, keeping the constant temperature in an oil product system within the range of 45 +/-3 ℃, adjusting the pH value of the oil product system within the range of 4.8-5.4, adding phospholipase into the oil product according to the mass part of 30mg/kg, and reacting for 2 hours to complete decolorization.

After the decoloration is carried out by the method, the decoloration rate reaches 97 percent, and the pomelo oil obtained by rectification is clear.

Pouring the rectified pomelo oil into a stirrer, controlling the stirring speed to be 30-70 r/min, slowly stirring, controlling the cooling speed to slowly cool according to 1 ℃/min, cooling to about 4-6 ℃, and separating out after about 24 hours, so that the solid fat generates large crystals. And filtering to separate oil and solid fat. The winterization process is completed, and the winterization method is the same as that in the prior art.

Example 2 preparation of antioxidant-containing oil base

Preparing an oil base: the preparation method comprises the steps of taking the pomelo oil, the plukenetia volubilis oil and the caprylic/capric triglyceride according to the mass parts, heating the pomelo oil to 50 +/-3 ℃, slowly and gradually adding the plukenetia volubilis oil and the caprylic/capric triglyceride while stirring, keeping stirring after adding is completed, enabling oil phases to be uniformly fused with each other, and controlling the stirring strength to reduce air inflow and air bubble generation as much as possible.

Oil-based mixed antioxidants: the method comprises the following steps of taking vitamin E, squalene (squalane, wherein the squalane and the squalene can be regarded as the same substance, oxidizing the squalene into the squalane after the squalene is oxidized in a natural state for a period of time), a sargassum fusiforme polysaccharide extract, levoglucosan and 24-methylene cycloartenol, keeping the oil base at a constant temperature of 50 +/-3 ℃, gradually and rapidly adding an antioxidant under the state of continuous stirring, controlling the force during stirring to reduce air inflow and bubble generation as much as possible, keeping the temperature condition of 50 +/-3 ℃ after stirring for 3-5 hours, discharging bubbles in the oil base system as much as possible, and standing for 10 hours.

Example 3 oil-based modification with addition of astringents to produce the finished product

Taking stigmasterol, 2, 4-di-tert-butylphenol and erucamide according to the mass parts, taking a small amount of oil base prepared in example 2, cooling, maintaining the temperature within the range of 25 +/-3 ℃, stirring and dissolving the stigmasterol, the 2, 4-di-tert-butylphenol and the erucamide, pouring the whole into the oil base at the temperature of 50 +/-3 ℃, and fully stirring.

Cooling to about 10 deg.C after dissolving completely, and adding astringent tea tree essential oil to obtain skin caring oil product.

EXAMPLE 4 emollient oil samples at various ratios

The proportion of each component in the emollient oil has a proper range:

the emollient oil contains 0.7-4 parts of antioxidant, 80-110 parts of oil base, 10-20 parts of homogenizing agent and 1-5 parts of astringent.

The homogenizing agent comprises, by mass, 0.5-3 parts of stigmasterol, 4-9 parts of 2, 4-di-tert-butylphenol and 0.1-0.7 part of erucamide.

The antioxidant comprises 3-5 parts of vitamin E, 3-5 parts of squalene and/or squalane, 13-25 parts of sargassum fusiforme polysaccharide extract, 13-25 parts of levoglucosan and 4-10 parts of 24-methylene cycloartanol by mass.

The oil base consists of 40-60 parts by mass of the shaddock oil, 20-35 parts by mass of the plukenetia volubilis linneo oil and 15-27 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride, wherein the total parts by mass of the plukenetia volubilis linneo oil and the caprylic/capric triglyceride is less than or equal to the parts by mass of the shaddock oil.

According to the steps of the examples 1-3, skin oil samples with various proportions are prepared, and the specific mass parts are as shown in the following table 1:

TABLE 1

The skin moistening oil of samples 1 to 5 is tested for physicochemical properties, and the sensory evaluation indexes of permeability, brightness and smoothness are adopted to respectively evaluate the difficulty of the skin absorbing the sample when the skin moistening oil is smeared on the skin, the quantity of reflected light on the skin and the difficulty of fingers sliding across the skin. All sensory indexes are scored by 20 evaluators, the total score is 1-10, and a highest score and a lowest score are removed during statistics, and then the average value is taken. The physical and chemical properties are shown in table 2:

TABLE 2

The results show that the skin oil has good overall sensory index, the oil feeling of the skin oil is reduced due to the great reduction of the viscosity coefficient, the brightness is slightly higher, and the skin oil has certain difference compared with skin care products made of skin lotion, skin cream and the like, but has obvious improvement compared with other oily skin care products.

Example 5 free radical scavenging experiment in mouse skin

The mice were divided into 6 groups, 10 in each group, each mouse was shaved off of hair on the back to an area of approximately 4 x 4cm of exposed skin, and the skin was applied evenly 1 time per day in a timed dose (0.5g) on the exposed skin on the back of the mouse for 30 consecutive days. After 30 days, the mice are killed, the skin tissues of the exposed smearing area on the backs of the mice are taken to prepare 10 percent of skin tissue homogenate, and the homogenate is stored at the temperature of minus 20 ℃ for standby.

After 10% of skin tissue homogenate was centrifuged, the supernatant was taken to measure the hydroxyl radical scavenging ability, superoxide anion radical scavenging ability, and DPPH free scavenging ability of the skin tissue by the kit method, respectively, and the results are shown in table 3:

TABLE 3

As can be seen from the table above, the emollient oil of the present invention has strong scavenging ability for hydroxyl radical, superoxide radical and DPPH radical, while the radical which has the greatest influence on stains, wrinkles and aging of human skin is hydroxyl radical, and the present invention shows strong scavenging ability, so that the present invention has good anti-aging performance.

The above description is only for the purpose of illustrating the preferred embodiments of the present invention and is not to be construed as limiting the invention, and any modifications, equivalents and improvements made within the spirit and principle of the present invention are intended to be included within the scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. The anti-aging emollient oil comprises 0.7-4 parts of antioxidant, 80-110 parts of oil base, 10-20 parts of homogenizing agent and 1-5 parts of astringent, and is characterized in that: the oil base comprises pomelo oil, the content of the pomelo oil in the oil base is more than or equal to 50%, the antioxidant comprises polysaccharide and 24-methylene cycloartanol, the oil base comprises the pomelo oil, the plukenetia volubilis oil and caprylic/capric triglyceride, the homogenizing agent is a mixture of stigmasterol, 2, 4-di-tert-butylphenol and erucamide, the polysaccharide is sargassum fusiforme polysaccharide extract and levoglucosan, the anti-aging skin-moistening oil has a film-forming property, the viscosity coefficient is less than 10, and the free radical elimination rate is more than 60%.

2. The anti-aging emollient oil of claim 1, wherein: the antioxidant comprises vitamin E, squalene and/or squalane, Hizikia fusiforme polysaccharide extract, levoglucosan and 24-methylene cycloartenol.

3. The anti-aging emollient oil of claim 2, wherein: the vitamin E is fat-soluble vitamin E.

4. The anti-aging emollient oil of claim 1, wherein: and decolorizing the pomelo oil.

5. The anti-aging emollient oil of claim 4 comprising: the decolorization treatment is enzyme decolorization.

6. The anti-aging emollient oil of claim 1, wherein: the astringent is tea tree essential oil.