CN106917174A - A kind of Seluofle spins pure cotton stretch yarn and its preparation and application - Google Patents
A kind of Seluofle spins pure cotton stretch yarn and its preparation and application Download PDFInfo
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- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 68
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 35
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 239000012792 core layer Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 25
- 238000005253 cladding Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000007378 ring spinning Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 abstract description 29
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 abstract description 14
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 abstract description 14
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 abstract description 6
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 4
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 241000168254 Siro Species 0.000 description 3
- 210000000085 cashmere Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 3
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229920000433 Lyocell Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 235000017166 Bambusa arundinacea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000017491 Bambusa tulda Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 241001330002 Bambuseae Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000015334 Phyllostachys viridis Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011425 bamboo Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000004177 elastic tissue Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002657 fibrous material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003860 storage Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003079 width control Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/38—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
- D02G3/326—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic the elastic properties due to the construction rather than to the use of elastic material
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B7/00—Mercerising, e.g. lustring by mercerising
- D06B7/04—Mercerising, e.g. lustring by mercerising of yarns, threads or filaments
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/14—Dyeability
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
本发明涉及一种赛络菲尔纺纯棉弹力纱及其制备和应用,纯棉弹力纱由形成包覆层的粗纱和形成芯层的细纱以赛罗菲尔纺纱工艺形成全棉包覆结构。在赛络菲尔纺细纱机上将细纱与粗纱同向加捻纺纱,然后经整理,即得赛络菲尔纺纯棉弹力纱。本发明将原本不具备弹性的全棉纤维经过一定的加工工序和处理后使得其具有自然弹性,替代传统弹力牛仔面料用氨纶弹力包芯纱,从而避免使用弹力丝造成露芯、难以织造、幅宽难控制等技术问题,且有助于增强弹力牛仔面料的挺括性而不降低面料手感,为常规中低弹力牛仔织物提供一种新的纱线原料。
The invention relates to a sirofil spun pure cotton elastic yarn and its preparation and application. The pure cotton elastic yarn is covered with rovings forming a covering layer and spun yarns forming a core layer by a sirofil spinning process. structure. The spun yarn and the roving are twisted and spun in the same direction on the Sirofill spinning machine, and then finished to obtain the Sirofill pure cotton elastic yarn. In the present invention, the cotton fiber which originally does not have elasticity is made to have natural elasticity after certain processing procedures and treatments, and replaces the spandex elastic core-spun yarn used in traditional elastic denim fabrics, thereby avoiding the use of elastic yarns to cause exposed cores, difficulty in weaving, and wide Wide and difficult to control and other technical problems, and help to enhance the stiffness of elastic denim fabrics without reducing the fabric feel, and provide a new yarn raw material for conventional medium and low elastic denim fabrics.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明属于弹力纱及其制备和应用领域,特别涉及一种赛络菲尔纺纯棉弹力纱及其制备和应用。The invention belongs to the field of elastic yarn and its preparation and application, in particular to a sirofield pure cotton elastic yarn and its preparation and application.
背景技术Background technique
弹力牛仔面料穿着舒适、紧致有型、伸缩自如,在牛仔面料中占有很大比重,其弹力范围一般在10~20%。但是,随着人们物质生活水平的不断提高,人们对弹力牛仔面料的要求也越来越高,不仅要求穿着舒适,更要求其美观、生态环保。Elastic denim fabrics are comfortable to wear, compact and stylish, and stretchable freely. They occupy a large proportion in denim fabrics, and their elastic range is generally 10-20%. However, with the continuous improvement of people's material living standards, people have higher and higher requirements for elastic denim fabrics, not only requiring comfortable wearing, but also requiring them to be beautiful and environmentally friendly.
目前,弹力牛仔布所用弹力纱一般采用天然纤维与弹力纤维以包芯或者包覆方式纺制而成,如包芯花捻弹力纱、弹力双丝包芯纱等等。中国专利(公开号CN106048810A)《一种包芯花捻弹力纱及其制备方法》以短纤为包覆纱、以PBT或锦纶DTY长丝为芯缠绕形成包芯花捻。然而,就弹力纱弹力来源来说,其弹力主要依旧来自于PBT弹力丝,PBT弹力丝由于其采用的化纤材料,吸湿性较差,影响穿着的舒适性。中国专利(公开号CN104060356A)《一种涤氨双包芯纱及其面料》以复合涤纶长丝和氨纶丝为芯、天然纤维或者化学纤维为包覆纤维,以期实现氨纶丝弹性和涤纶丝优异回复性的结合,但由于芯纱部分采用了氨纶丝,并没有改变弹力丝在纺纱、织造乃至穿着过程中出现的弊病——露芯、织造幅宽难以控制,难以降解、污染环境等等。中国实用新型专利(CN201620512458.X)《一种赛络紧密纺复合双包芯纱线》采用涤纶/锦纶和氨纶两根长丝为芯、棉纤维为包覆层生产复合双包芯纱线。中国发明专利(CN201610446618.X.)《赛罗包芯纱及其生产工艺》采用两根粗纱经赛罗纺工艺加捻而成,粗纱为无捻玻璃长丝/金属丝等刚性大的纤维为硬质芯层和无捻度的天然/化学纤维为外层包覆形成,从而避免芯纱的断裂和外露。中国发明专利(CN201610640516.1)《一种超弹保暖包芯纱》以氨纶长丝和尼龙丝的混合捻线为芯层、山羊绒和天丝纤维的混捻纤维层为缠绕层。但是,以氨纶等弹力丝包芯纱赋予织物弹性时,弹性越好的织物其弹性残留率和缩水率也会增加,而且氨纶纤维的耐候性和耐温性能差,织物长时间穿着甚至长时间存放均会失去弹性,产生松弛变形等现象。综上所述,弹力丝的存在虽然赋予纱线较好的弹性,但同时也对织造、穿着产生负面影响——露芯、纬向缩水率大、幅宽难控制、吸湿差、舒适性差等。At present, elastic yarns used in elastic denim are generally spun from natural fibers and elastic fibers in a core-spun or covered manner, such as core-spun floral twist elastic yarns, elastic double-filament core-spun yarns, and the like. Chinese patent (publication number CN106048810A) "a core-spun flower twist elastic yarn and its preparation method" uses short fibers as the covering yarn, and takes PBT or nylon DTY filament as the core to form the core-spun flower twist. However, as far as the elastic source of elastic yarn is concerned, its elastic force mainly comes from PBT elastic yarn. Due to the chemical fiber material used in PBT elastic yarn, its hygroscopicity is poor, which affects the comfort of wearing. Chinese patent (publication number CN104060356A) "A polyester-spandex double core-spun yarn and its fabric" uses composite polyester filament and spandex as the core, and natural fiber or chemical fiber as the covering fiber, in order to achieve the elasticity of spandex and the excellent quality of polyester. The combination of recovery, but because the core yarn part uses spandex yarn, it does not change the disadvantages of the elastic yarn in the spinning, weaving and even wearing process - exposed core, difficult to control the weaving width, difficult to degrade, pollute the environment, etc. . Chinese Utility Model Patent (CN201620512458.X) "A Siro Compact Spinning Composite Double Core Yarn" uses two filaments of polyester/nylon and spandex as the core and cotton fiber as the cladding layer to produce a composite double core spun yarn. Chinese invention patent (CN201610446618.X.) "Siro core-spun yarn and its production process" is made by twisting two rovings through the Siro spinning process. The rovings are untwisted glass filaments/metal wires and other rigid fibers. A hard core and untwisted natural/chemical fibers form the sheath to avoid breakage and exposure of the core yarn. Chinese invention patent (CN201610640516.1) "A Super Elastic Warm Core Spun Yarn" uses the mixed twisted yarn of spandex filament and nylon yarn as the core layer, and the mixed twisted fiber layer of cashmere and tencel fiber as the winding layer. However, when elastic core-spun yarns such as spandex are used to impart elasticity to the fabric, the elastic residual rate and shrinkage rate of the fabric with better elasticity will also increase, and the weather resistance and temperature resistance of spandex fiber are poor, and the fabric can be worn for a long time or even for a long time. Storage will lose elasticity, resulting in loose deformation and other phenomena. To sum up, although the presence of elastic yarn endows the yarn with better elasticity, it also has negative effects on weaving and wearing - exposed core, large weft shrinkage, difficult control of width, poor moisture absorption, poor comfort, etc. .
天然纤维,如棉纤维具有吸湿透气、柔软、防敏感等特点,相比于弹力丝具有得天独厚的优势。就非弹力丝/纤维的包芯纱而言,中国发明专利(CN201610859864.8)《一种牦牛绒包缠包芯纱及其生产方法》以长丝或者短纤细纱为芯层、以弱捻牦牛绒须条为包覆层;中国发明专利(CN201610641004.7)《一种复合包芯纱》以镀银锦纶长丝/竹纤维包缠纱为芯层、包覆层为天丝和羊绒纤维。这些结构实现了满足一定功能的包芯纱结构,但没有赋予纱线弹性。此外,文献《纯棉强捻经纬向弹力织物的生产开发》(齐荫方,李清泉,张海霞,天津纺织科技,2009,4:22-24)提出采用普通纯棉强捻纱经丝光整理赋予织物弹性,此类织物因单纱捻度太高而大大降低了手感性能和穿着舒适性能。Natural fibers, such as cotton fibers, have the characteristics of moisture absorption, breathability, softness, and anti-sensitivity, and have unique advantages compared to elastic silk. As far as the core-spun yarn of non-elastic yarn/fiber is concerned, the Chinese invention patent (CN201610859864.8) "A Yak Cashmere Wrapped Core-spun Yarn and Its Production Method" uses filament or staple spun yarn as the core layer and weak twist Yak velvet strips are the covering layer; Chinese invention patent (CN201610641004.7) "a composite core-spun yarn" uses silver-plated nylon filament/bamboo fiber wrapping yarn as the core layer, and the covering layer is tencel and cashmere fiber . These structures achieve a corespun yarn structure that fulfills certain functions, but does not impart elasticity to the yarn. In addition, the document "Production and Development of Pure Cotton Strong Twisted Warp and Weft Elastic Fabric" (Qi Yinfang, Li Qingquan, Zhang Haixia, Tianjin Textile Science and Technology, 2009, 4: 22-24) proposes to use ordinary pure cotton strong twisted yarn to endow it with mercerizing finishing. Fabric elasticity, such fabrics have greatly reduced hand feeling and wearing comfort due to too high single yarn twist.
显然,现有弹力牛仔面料所用包芯纱往往以氨纶等弹力丝为芯纱、以纯棉或棉混纺纱为包覆纱,织物很难做到既有良好的弹性,又具备较好的尺寸稳定性等;现有基于纯棉天然纤维的弹力布仅依赖于细纱强捻定型,赋予一定弹性的同时降低了织物手感风格。现在缺乏一种能替代氨纶等合成弹力丝而使牛仔面料具有一定弹性的纱线结构,从而克服使用弹力丝出现的种种弊病,同时保持牛仔面料的风格、品质和手感性能。Obviously, the core-spun yarn used in the existing elastic denim fabrics often uses elastic yarn such as spandex as the core yarn, and pure cotton or cotton blended yarn as the covering yarn. It is difficult for the fabric to have both good elasticity and good elasticity. Dimensional stability, etc.; the existing elastic fabrics based on pure cotton natural fibers only rely on strong twisting of spun yarns, which imparts a certain degree of elasticity while reducing the style of the fabric. Now there is a lack of a yarn structure that can replace synthetic elastic yarns such as spandex and make denim fabrics have certain elasticity, thereby overcoming the various disadvantages of using elastic yarns, while maintaining the style, quality and feel performance of denim fabrics.
发明内容Contents of the invention
本发明所要解决的技术问题是提供一种赛络菲尔纺纯棉弹力纱及其制备和应用,将原本不具备弹性的全棉纤维经过一定的加工工序和处理后使得其具有自然弹性,替代传统弹力牛仔面料用氨纶弹力包芯纱,从而避免使用弹力丝造成露芯、难以织造、幅宽难控制等技术问题,且有助于增强弹力牛仔面料的挺括性而不降低面料手感,为常规中低弹力牛仔织物提供一种新的纱线原料。The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a kind of sirofil spun pure cotton elastic yarn and its preparation and application, which makes the cotton fiber which does not have elasticity naturally elastic through certain processing procedures and treatments, replacing Traditional elastic denim fabrics use spandex elastic core-spun yarn, so as to avoid technical problems such as exposed core, difficult to weave, and difficult to control the width caused by the use of elastic yarn, and help to enhance the crispness of elastic denim fabrics without reducing the fabric feel. Low and medium stretch denim fabrics provide a new yarn raw material.
本发明的一种赛络菲尔纺纯棉弹力纱,所述纯棉弹力纱包括包覆层和芯层,包覆层由一根纯棉粗纱和芯层由一根纯棉细纱以赛络菲尔纺纱工艺纺纱形成。A kind of sirofill spun pure cotton elastic yarn of the present invention, described pure cotton elastic yarn comprises cladding layer and core layer, and cladding layer is made of a pure cotton roving and core layer is made of a pure cotton spun yarn with siro Phil spinning process spinning forms.
纯棉弹力纱包括一根纯棉粗纱形成的包覆层、一根纯棉细纱形成的芯层,以赛络菲尔纺纱工艺形成全棉包覆结构包芯纱。The pure cotton elastic yarn includes a covering layer formed by a pure cotton roving, a core layer formed by a pure cotton spun yarn, and a cotton covered structure core-spun yarn is formed by the Sirofill spinning process.
所述粗纱为弱捻棉须条或纤维网,细纱为常规捻棉细纱(120~300捻/米)。The roving is weakly twisted cotton sliver or fiber net, and the spun yarn is conventionally twisted cotton spun yarn (120-300 twists/m).
所述包覆结构包芯纱的特点是芯纱具有强捻、包覆层纤维网具有适中捻度。The covering structure core-spun yarn is characterized in that the core yarn has strong twist and the cladding layer fiber web has moderate twist.
纤维网为:粗纱为全棉粗纱须条,经赛络菲尔纺工艺以纤维网包裹在所述细纱外层,赋予生产的全棉纱线及面料良好的手感性能。The fiber net is: the roving is a cotton roving sliver, which is wrapped in the outer layer of the spun yarn with a fiber net through the Sirofield spinning process, so that the produced cotton yarn and fabric have good hand feeling properties.
细纱为常规捻棉细纱,捻度大小一定程度上取决于终端用途所需纱线弹性,经赛络菲尔纺工艺加工被进一步加捻后,并处于包覆结构纱芯层,呈现强捻效应。The spun yarn is a conventionally twisted cotton spun yarn, and the twist depends to a certain extent on the yarn elasticity required by the end use. After being further twisted by the Sirofill spinning process, it is in the core layer of the covered structural yarn, showing a strong twist effect.
所述全棉包覆结构包芯纱的捻度为500-800捻/米,其中,芯层原料棉细纱此时的捻度增加至600~1000捻/米。The twist of the core-spun yarn with the all-cotton covering structure is 500-800 twists/m, and the twist of the core layer raw cotton spun yarn at this time increases to 600-1000 twists/m.
本发明的一种赛络菲尔纺纯棉弹力纱的制备方法,包括:A kind of preparation method of Sirofill spinning pure cotton elastic yarn of the present invention, comprises:
在赛络菲尔纺细纱机上将细度40英支、初始捻度120-300捻/米细纱与细度14英支、初始捻度100捻/米粗纱同向加捻纺纱,形成包覆层捻度适中、芯层强捻的包覆结构纱,然后经松式丝光整理,即得赛络菲尔纺纯棉弹力纱。Spun yarn with a fineness of 40 British counts and an initial twist of 120-300 twists/m and a roving with a fineness of 14 British counts and an initial twist of 100 twists/meter are twisted and spun in the same direction on the Sirofill spinning frame to form a coating twist Moderate and strong core twisted covered structural yarn, and then loosened and mercerized to obtain Sirofill spun pure cotton elastic yarn.
所述细纱为在环锭纺细纱机上将粗纱须条加常规捻纺纱(120-300捻/米)而成,用作赛络菲尔纺工艺的喂入纱,形成纯棉弹力纱的芯层。The spun yarn is formed by adding conventional twist spinning (120-300 twists/meter) to the roving sliver on the ring spinning frame, and is used as the feed yarn of the Sirofield spinning process to form the core of the pure cotton elastic yarn Floor.
所述细纱为40英支环锭纺棉纱;粗纱为14英支普通棉短纤。The spun yarn is ring-spun cotton yarn with count 40; the roving is ordinary cotton staple fiber with count 14.
所述短纤由棉纤维组成。The staple fibers consist of cotton fibers.
所述整理为丝光处理。The finishing is mercerizing.
所述丝光处理为:松式丝光处理,具体为:处理的碱液浓度为250-280g/L,采用无张力处理,处理时间50-90s,然后通过去碱处理烘干。The mercerizing treatment is: pine-type mercerizing treatment, specifically: the concentration of the lye solution to be treated is 250-280g/L, tension-free treatment is adopted, and the treatment time is 50-90s, and then dried by alkali-removing treatment.
松式丝光整理工序,解决了所制备的包芯强捻纱的捻缩和退捻,使赛洛菲尔纺全棉包芯纱形成永久性的收缩卷曲。The loose-type mercerizing finishing process solves the twist shrinkage and untwisting of the prepared core-spun strong-twisted yarn, and makes the Sirofil spun cotton core-spun yarn form permanent shrinkage curls.
包芯强捻纱被直接经松式丝光处理,最终得到弹力牛仔布用全棉弹力纱。The core-spun strong-twisted yarn is directly treated by loose mercerizing, and finally the cotton elastic yarn for elastic denim is obtained.
本发明粗纱包覆芯层细纱的同时对芯层细纱进行了同向加捻,芯层细纱形成强捻结构。When the roving of the present invention wraps the core layer spun yarn, the core layer spun yarn is twisted in the same direction, and the core layer spun yarn forms a strong twist structure.
本发明的一种赛络菲尔纺纯棉弹力纱的应用,纯棉弹力纱用于弹力牛仔布的织造原料。The application of a kind of sirofill spinning pure cotton elastic yarn of the present invention, pure cotton elastic yarn is used for the weaving raw material of elastic denim.
本发明纺纱工艺为赛络菲尔纺,喂入的两根须条分别为粗纱和细纱,且喂入的粗纱和细纱捻向一致,赛络菲尔纺加捻方向与所述细纱及粗纱捻向同向,以此对所述细纱进一步加捻而形成强捻效果,该效果将赋予本发明所述赛络菲尔纺全棉包芯纱线及织物经后续整理后呈现一定弹性。The spinning process of the present invention is Sirofill spinning, the two fed strands are roving and spun yarn respectively, and the twist direction of the fed roving and spun yarn is consistent, and the twisting direction of Sirofill spinning is the same as that of the spun yarn and roving. Twist in the same direction, so that the spun yarn is further twisted to form a strong twist effect, which will endow the Sirofill spun cotton core-spun yarn and fabric of the present invention with certain elasticity after subsequent finishing.
纯棉弹力纱的赛络菲尔纺工艺喂入细纱为纯棉粗纱在环锭纺细纱机上纺纱而成。The Sirofield spinning process of pure cotton elastic yarn feeds spun yarns from pure cotton rovings spun on a ring spinning frame.
在赛络菲尔纺纯棉弹力纱的制备方法中,在赛络菲尔纺纱机上喂入的两根须条分别为细纱和粗纱,二者以同向捻向喂入,同向加捻纺纱。In the preparation method of Sirofill spinning pure cotton elastic yarn, the two filaments fed on the Sirofill spinning machine are spun yarn and roving respectively, and the two are fed in the same direction and twisted in the same direction spinning.
有益效果Beneficial effect
本发明提出了一种赛络菲尔纺全棉弹力纱结构及制备方法,不仅可克服了以氨纶等弹力丝包芯纱赋予牛仔布弹性的染整和露白缺陷,同时解决了基于氨纶弹力包芯纱生产弹力牛仔布时织造难、幅宽难控制、卷边等弊病,也改变了目前以纯棉强捻细纱经丝光整理获取弹性而降低面料手感和舒适度的技术难题;以本发明的全棉弹力纱织成的弹力牛仔布面料纹路清楚、穿着舒适、挺括,可染色性大大提高,不易出现色差,且面料弹性不会因为水洗而减弱,是一种终身弹,丢弃后不会污染环境,是一种很好的生态环保弹力纱。The present invention proposes a structure and preparation method of Sirofill spun cotton elastic yarn, which can not only overcome the dyeing and finishing and whitening defects of denim elasticized by spandex and other elastic yarn core-spun yarns, but also solve the problem based on spandex elastic yarn. The disadvantages such as difficult weaving, difficult width control, and curling when the core yarn is used to produce elastic denim have also changed the current technical problems of using pure cotton strong-twisted spun yarns to obtain elasticity through mercerizing and reducing fabric feel and comfort; The stretch denim fabric made of cotton stretch yarn has clear lines, comfortable to wear, crisp, greatly improved dyeability, less color difference, and the fabric elasticity will not be weakened by washing. It is a lifelong elastic and will not be polluted after being discarded. Environment, is a very good ecological environmental protection elastic yarn.
附图说明Description of drawings
图1为本发明包芯强捻弹性纱及结构示意图,其中(a)为加捻之前,(b)为加捻之后。Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of the core-spun strongly twisted elastic yarn and its structure of the present invention, wherein (a) is before twisting, and (b) is after twisting.
具体实施方式detailed description
下面结合具体实施例,进一步阐述本发明。应理解,这些实施例仅用于说明本发明而不用于限制本发明的范围。此外应理解,在阅读了本发明讲授的内容之后,本领域技术人员可以对本发明作各种改动或修改,这些等价形式同样落于本申请所附权利要求书所限定的范围。Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, further illustrate the present invention. It should be understood that these examples are only used to illustrate the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. In addition, it should be understood that after reading the teachings of the present invention, those skilled in the art can make various changes or modifications to the present invention, and these equivalent forms also fall within the scope defined by the appended claims of the present application.
实施例1Example 1
(一)纱线规格(1) Yarn specification
包芯强捻弹力纱:500捻/米,20英支;Core-spun strong twist elastic yarn: 500 twists/m, 20 lbs;
原料:包覆纤维网,棉粗纱,细度14英支,捻度100捻/米;Raw materials: coated fiber mesh, cotton roving, fineness 14 lbs, twist 100 twists/m;
芯层,环锭纺棉细纱,细度40英支,捻度120捻/米;Core layer, ring spun cotton yarn, fineness 40 lbs, twist 120 twists/m;
(二)生产工艺(2) Production process
请参阅图1,本发明实施例包括:一种包芯强捻弹力纱,由粗纱形成包覆层、细纱形成芯层而构成包覆结构包芯纱。Please refer to FIG. 1 , the embodiment of the present invention includes: a core-spun strong-twisted elastic yarn, the covering layer is formed by the roving, and the core layer is formed by the spun yarn to form a covered structure core-spun yarn.
所述粗纱、细纱均采用纯棉纤维,且细纱由粗纱经环锭纺工艺纺纱而成。Both the roving and the spun yarn are pure cotton fibers, and the spun yarn is spun from the roving through a ring spinning process.
具体步骤如下:Specific steps are as follows:
(1)制备细纱:在环锭纺细纱机上将粗纱加捻纺纱制成具有一定捻度的细纱。本例纺制的细纱捻度为120捻/米;(1) Preparation of spun yarn: Twisting and spinning the roving on the ring spinning frame to make spun yarn with a certain twist. The twist of the spun yarn spun in this example is 120 twists/meter;
(2)制备包芯强捻纱:在赛络菲尔纺细纱机上将步骤(1)中所制成的细纱和粗纱作为喂入的两根须条,同向(Z-Z)加捻纺纱,其中粗纱经牵伸纺纱包缠形成包芯纱包覆层、细纱被进一步加捻成为包芯纱芯层。本例中加捻捻度为500捻/米;(2) Preparation of core-spun strong twisted yarn: on the Sirofill spinning machine, the spun yarn and the roving made in step (1) are used as two strands of feeding, twisted and spun in the same direction (Z-Z), Among them, the roving is wrapped by drawing and spinning to form a core-spun yarn covering layer, and the spun yarn is further twisted to form a core-spun yarn core layer. In this example, the twist twist is 500 twists/meter;
(3)制备弹力纱:将步骤(2)加捻后的包芯纱经碱丝光处理,最终得到包芯强捻弹力纱。本例丝光处理的碱液浓度为280g/L,采用无张力处理,处理时间90s,然后通过去碱处理烘干。(3) Preparation of elastic yarn: the core-spun yarn after twisting in step (2) is subjected to alkali mercerizing treatment to finally obtain core-spun elastic yarn with strong twist. In this case, the lye concentration of mercerizing treatment is 280g/L, and it adopts tension-free treatment, and the treatment time is 90s, and then it is dried by alkali-removing treatment.
经(2)加捻后的包芯强捻纱线捻缩明显,手感较硬,但弹性回复率由15.90%提高至21.57%;经(3)丝光处理,捻缩消失,内应力充分释放,纱线形成了永久的回缩卷曲,手感变柔软,弹性增强,弹性伸长率达到16.5%(满足一般牛仔布弹性要求),弹性回复率由21.57%提高至26.16%。After (2) twisting, the core-spun strong-twisted yarn has obvious twist shrinkage and feels hard, but the elastic recovery rate increases from 15.90% to 21.57%. After (3) mercerizing treatment, the twist shrinkage disappears and the internal stress is fully released. The yarn forms a permanent retraction curl, the hand feeling becomes soft, the elasticity is enhanced, the elastic elongation reaches 16.5% (meeting the general denim elastic requirement), and the elastic recovery rate increases from 21.57% to 26.16%.
Claims (10)
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CN112725969B (en) * | 2020-12-28 | 2022-05-31 | 浙江华孚色纺有限公司 | Yarn for color-spun jean product, production method thereof and jean fabric formed by same |
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