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CN104519862A - Cosmetic composition for keratin fibers - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition for keratin fibers Download PDF

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Publication number
CN104519862A
CN104519862A CN201280075266.1A CN201280075266A CN104519862A CN 104519862 A CN104519862 A CN 104519862A CN 201280075266 A CN201280075266 A CN 201280075266A CN 104519862 A CN104519862 A CN 104519862A
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China
Prior art keywords
weight
oil
acid
cosmetic composition
carbon
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
森田健一
松本清文
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, including: at least one fatty material including (i) at least one plant oil formed by at least one triglyceride derived from fatty acids, and/or (ii) at least one liquid fatty acid ester other than triglyceride; and at least one oxidizing agent, wherein a) 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the fatty acids in the triglyceride(s), of the fatty acids in the triglyceride(s) have 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-carbon double bond, b) the fatty acid in the liquid fatty acid ester other than triglyceride has 16 or more carbon atoms and/or at least one carbon-carbon double bond, c) the pH of the composition is less than 8. The present invention can provide keratin fibers with superior cosmetic properties or perm performance, can reduce the damages to the keratin fibers, and can improve the feel to touch of the keratin fibers.

Description

For the cosmetic composition of keratin fiber
Technical field
The present invention relates to for the cosmetic composition of keratin fiber as hair.
Background technology
In the permanently shaping of keratin fiber as hair, first disulfide bond-S-S-(the reduction phase of the compositions opening angle albumen (cystine) containing suitable reducing agent is used), then after rinsing the hair processed thus, again by the hair under tension force (curling-tong etc.) applies oxidising composition and reconstructing disulfide bond (oxidation stage, also referred to as sizing) finally to give the shape needed for hair being in before.This technology is therefore, it is possible to realize the boiling hot volume or stretching of hair.Be different from simply traditional interim Modeling Technology, give the new shape of hair extremely lasting and obviously tolerance water or shampoo cleaning function by chemical treatment as above.
Oxidising composition needed for the sizing stage is normally based on the compositions of hydrogen peroxide or bromate.
Propose for above-mentioned chemically treated many compositionss and method.Such as, JP-A-S54-28833 discloses and comprises hydrogen peroxide, has the oil of the iodine number of 15 or lower and the oxidising composition of other composition.The oil with the iodine number of 15 or lower is equivalent to Oleum Cocois.
But there is various shortcoming in above-mentioned method of chemical treatment, they are improper viewed from the expected angle of consumer.These shortcomings comprise not enough cosmetic properties or keratin fiber such as the volume of hair scalds the damage of (perm) performance and keratin fiber and the sense of touch variation of keratin fiber.
Disclosure of the invention
An object of the present invention is to provide a kind of for the cosmetic composition of keratin fiber as hair, it can provide excellent cosmetic properties or volume to scald performance for keratin fiber, and the damage that can reduce keratin fiber also can improve chemically scalds the sense of touch of rolling up the keratin fiber processed as permanent.
Can realize above-mentioned purpose of the present invention by a kind of cosmetic composition for keratin fiber, described compositions comprises:
-at least one fat material, it comprises the vegetable oil that (i) at least one is formed by the triglyceride derived from fatty acid, and/or the liquid aliphatic acid esters of (ii) at least one other than triglycerides; With
-at least one oxidant,
Wherein
A) fatty acid in triglyceride relative to 50 % by weight or more of its gross weight, there are 18 or more carbon atom and at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond;
Fatty acid in the liquid aliphatic acid esters of b) other than triglycerides has 16 or more carbon atom and/or at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond; And
C) pH of described compositions is lower than 8.
The fatty acid ester of described vegetable oil and described other than triglycerides is liquid form at ambient temperature and at normal atmospheric pressure.
According to the present invention, being made up of unsaturated fatty acid relative to 50 % by weight or more of its gross weight of the fatty acid in triglyceride.Especially, the fatty acid in triglyceride relative to 50 % by weight to 100 % by weight of its gross weight, preferably 60 % by weight to 90 % by weight preferably have 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond.
Preferably, the fatty acid in triglyceride relative to 5 % by weight or more of its gross weight, there are 18 or more carbon atom and at least two carbon-to-carbon double bonds.
Preferably, the fatty acid in triglyceride relative to its gross weight more than 70 % by weight or more, or the liquid aliphatic acid esters of other than triglycerides has 20 or more carbon atoms.
Fatty acid in triglyceride may comprise carbon-to-carbon triple bond.
This vegetable oil is more preferably selected from olive oil, Camellia oil, cameline oil, Oleum Brassicae campestris, Fructus Coriandri oil, Jojoba oil, almond oil, white awns caul-fat, sunflower oil, Semen Maydis oil, Oleum Gossypii semen, borage oil, Oleum sesami, safflower oil (sawflower oil), Ba Kasi oil, argan oil and almond oil.This vegetable oil is more preferably selected from olive oil, Camellia oil, Fructus Coriandri oil, Jojoba oil, almond oil, white awns caul-fat, Ba Kasi oil and almond oil.Especially, olive oil and Jojoba oil are most preferably.
The liquid aliphatic acid esters of other than triglycerides is preferably selected from sub-oleyl alcohol lactate; Oleyl alcohol lactate; Decyl oleate; Different spermol isostearate; Isooctadecanol cetylate; Octyl dodecanol eruciate; Oleyl alcohol eruciate; Ethyl palmitate, cetin and isopropyl palmitate; Palmic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite; With Palmic acid 2-octyl group ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems.
The amount of the liquid aliphatic acid esters of vegetable oil and/or other than triglycerides is preferably 0.01 % by weight to 10 % by weight of said composition gross weight, and preferably 0.05 % by weight to 5 % by weight, more preferably 0.01 % by weight to 1 % by weight.
This fat material can comprise the additional fatty compound of at least one, is preferably selected from other ester, aliphatic hydrocarbon, animal oil, silicone oil, fatty alcohol, polymer-wax and composition thereof.
The total amount of fat material is preferably 0.01 % by weight to 25 % by weight of said composition gross weight, and preferably 0.05 % by weight to 15 % by weight, more preferably 0.01 % by weight to 10 % by weight.
This oxidant is preferably hydrogen peroxide or bromate.Oxidant is more preferably hydrogen peroxide.
The amount of oxidant is preferably 0.1 % by weight to 15 % by weight of said composition gross weight, and preferably 0.5 % by weight to 10 % by weight, more preferably 1 % by weight to 5 % by weight.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably comprises at least one cationic polymer and/or at least one surfactant further.
According to a preferred embodiment, this cosmetic composition preferably has 1.5 to 7.9, more preferably 1.5 to 7, more more preferably 2 to 4 pH scope.
According to another embodiment, this cosmetic composition has 5 to 7.9, more preferably 6 to 7.8, more more preferably 7 to 7.7 pH scope.
The invention still further relates to volume and scald (permanent boiling hot volume or stretching) keratin fiber, the method for preferred hair, is characterized in that using cosmetic composition as defined above.
The invention still further relates to a kind of many compartment systems or cover box, it at least comprises
-the first compartment, and
-the second compartment,
Wherein
First compartment comprises at least one fat material, and it comprises the vegetable oil that (i) at least one is formed by the triglyceride derived from fatty acid, and/or the liquid aliphatic acid esters of (ii) at least one other than triglycerides, and
Second compartment comprises at least one oxidant, and
Wherein
A) fatty acid in triglyceride relative to 50 % by weight or more of its gross weight, there are 18 or more carbon atom and at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond,
Fatty acid in the liquid aliphatic acid esters of b) other than triglycerides has 16 or more carbon atom and/or at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and
The pH of the compositions c) obtained by the content mixed in the first and second compartments is less than 8.
Preferred forms of the present invention
After hard research, the present inventor has been found that, by the fatty acid ester of specific at least one vegetable oil and/or the specific other than triglycerides of at least one and oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide are merged, can obtain a kind of for the cosmetic composition of keratin fiber as hair, and above-mentioned cosmetic composition can provide excellent cosmetic properties or volume to scald performance for keratin fiber, the damage that can reduce keratin fiber also can improve the sense of touch of keratin fiber.
Therefore, the present invention is a kind of cosmetic composition for keratin fiber, and it comprises:
-at least one fat material, it comprises the vegetable oil that (i) at least one is formed derived from the triglyceride of fatty acid by least one, and/or the liquid aliphatic acid esters of (ii) at least one other than triglycerides; With
-at least one oxidant,
Wherein
A) fatty acid in triglyceride relative to 50 % by weight or more of its gross weight, there are 18 or more carbon atom and at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond;
Fatty acid in the liquid aliphatic acid esters of b) other than triglycerides has 16 or more carbon atom and/or at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond;
C) pH of described compositions is lower than 8.
Be explained in more detail cosmetic composition of the present invention below.
(compositions)
(a) fat material
Cosmetic composition of the present invention contains at least one fat material, and it comprises the vegetable oil that at least one is formed derived from the triglyceride of fatty acid by least one, and/or the liquid aliphatic acid esters of at least one other than triglycerides,
Wherein
A) fatty acid in triglyceride relative to 50 % by weight or more of its gross weight, there are 18 or more carbon atom and at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and
Fatty acid in the liquid aliphatic acid esters of b) other than triglycerides has 16 or more carbon atom and/or at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention can contain two or more fat materials of a kind of fat material or combination.Therefore, the combination of the fat material of single type or dissimilar fat material can be used.
Term " fat material " to refer under room temperature (25 DEG C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) water-fast organic compound (dissolubility is less than 5%, preferably 1%, more preferably 0.1%).In addition, this fat material dissolves in organic solvent at identical temperature and pressure condition, such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclopentaandoxane.
This fat material can be liquid or solid form.At this, " liquid " and " solid " refers to this fat material under ambient temperature (25 DEG C) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10 5pa) be liquid or paste (non-solid) or solid form respectively under.
This fat material can contain the two or more vegetable oil of a vegetable oil or combination.Therefore, the combination of the vegetable oil of single type or dissimilar vegetable oil can be used.Vegetable oil is preferably liquid form.
This vegetable oil can comprise a kind of triglyceride of fatty acids or two or more triglyceride of combination.The combination of the triglyceride of single type or dissimilar triglyceride can be used.Also the combination of the fatty acid of single type or dissimilar fatty acid can be used.
According to the present invention, being made up of unsaturated fatty acid relative to 50 % by weight or more of its gross weight of the fatty acid in triglyceride.Preferably, the fatty acid in triglyceride relative to 50 % by weight to 100 % by weight of its gross weight, more preferably 60 % by weight to 90 % by weight have 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond.
As the example of fatty acid with 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond, such as oleic acid can be mentioned, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid, linoleic acid, eicosadienoic acid, two dodecadienoic acids, linolenic acid, Pinolenic acid (pinolenic acid), eleostearic acid, honey acid (mead acid), eicosatrienoic acid, parinaric acid, arachidonic acid, eicosatetraenoic acid, Adrenic acid., bosseopentaenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, osbond acid, clupanodonic acid, the acid of tetracosa carbon pentaene, docosahexenoic acid and nisioic acid.
As the example of fatty acid with 18 or more carbon atoms and at least two carbon-to-carbon double bonds, such as linoleic acid, eicosadienoic acid, two dodecadienoic acids, linolenic acid, Pinolenic acid, eleostearic acid, honey acid, eicosatrienoic acid, parinaric acid, arachidonic acid, eicosatetraenoic acid, Adrenic acid., bosseopentaenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, osbond acid, clupanodonic acid, the acid of tetracosa carbon pentaene, docosahexenoic acid and nisioic acid can be mentioned.
Preferably, the fatty acid in triglyceride relative to 5 % by weight or more of its gross weight, there are 18 or more carbon atom and at least two carbon-to-carbon double bonds.
Preferably, the fatty acid in triglyceride more than 70 % by weight or more, there are 20 or more carbon atoms relative to its gross weight.
Fatty acid in triglyceride may comprise carbon-to-carbon triple bond.
Olive oil, Camellia oil, cameline oil, Oleum Brassicae campestris, Fructus Coriandri oil, Jojoba oil, almond oil, white awns caul-fat, sunflower oil, Semen Maydis oil, Oleum Gossypii semen, borage oil, Oleum sesami, safflower oil, Ba Kasi oil, argan oil and almond oil can be preferably selected from according to vegetable oil of the present invention.This vegetable oil is more preferably selected from olive oil, Camellia oil, Fructus Coriandri oil, Jojoba oil, almond oil, white awns caul-fat, Ba Kasi oil and almond oil.This vegetable oil is more preferably olive oil or Jojoba oil.
In addition, this fat material can contain at least one additional vegetable oil, as Petiolus Trachycarpi oil, fragrant Jris oil, kopok oil and Oleum Cocois.This additional vegetable oil can be stick with paste or solid form.Therefore, this additional vegetable oil can be such as butterfat, as cocoa butter and shea butter.
This fat material can liquid aliphatic acid esters containing a kind of liquid aliphatic acid esters of other than triglycerides or two or more other than triglycerides of combination, and wherein this fatty acid has 16 or more carbon atom and/or at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond.Therefore, the combination of the liquid aliphatic acid esters of the other than triglycerides of single type or the liquid aliphatic acid esters of dissimilar other than triglycerides can be used.
The fatty acid with 16 or more carbon atoms can be saturated or undersaturated.
As the example of satisfied fatty acid with 16 or more carbon atoms, such as Palmic acid, heptadecanoic acid, stearic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid (tetradocosanoic acid), hexacosoic acid (hexadocosanoic acid) and octocosoic acid (octadocosanoic acid) can be mentioned.
As the example of unsaturated fatty acid with 16 or more carbon atoms, such as palmitoleic acid can be mentioned, oleic acid, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid, linoleic acid, eicosadienoic acid, two dodecadienoic acids, linolenic acid, Pinolenic acid, eleostearic acid, honey acid, eicosatrienoic acid, parinaric acid, arachidonic acid, eicosatetraenoic acid, Adrenic acid., bosseopentaenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, osbond acid, clupanodonic acid, the acid of tetracosa carbon pentaene, docosahexenoic acid and nisioic acid.
There is the unsaturated fatty acid being less than 16 carbon atoms and can be used for this liquid aliphatic ester.As the example with the unsaturated fatty acid being less than 16 carbon atoms, such as .beta.-methylacrylic acid and myristoleic acid can be mentioned.
Example as the liquid aliphatic acid esters of other than triglycerides can mention saturated straight chain or side chain C 16-C 26aliphatic series is single-or polyacid and saturated or undersaturated straight or branched C 1-C 26the ester of aliphatic series list-or many alcohol, and unsaturated straight or branched C 16-C 26aliphatic series is single-or polyacid and saturated or undersaturated straight or branched C 1-C 26the ester of aliphatic series list-or many alcohol.
In these esters, sub-oleyl alcohol lactate can be mentioned; Oleyl alcohol lactate; Decyl oleate; Different spermol isostearate; Isooctadecanol cetylate; Octyl dodecanol eruciate; Oleyl alcohol eruciate; Ethyl palmitate, cetin and isopropyl palmitate; Palmic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite; With Palmic acid 2-octyl group ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems.
In ester mentioned above, preferably use ethyl palmitate, cetin and isopropyl palmitate, Palmic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite and Palmic acid 2-octyl group ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems.
The amount of the liquid aliphatic acid esters of vegetable oil and/or other than triglycerides is preferably 0.01 % by weight to 10 % by weight of said composition gross weight, and more preferably 0.05 % by weight to 5 % by weight, more more preferably 0.1 % by weight to 1 % by weight.
This fat material can be also the additional fat compound of solid or liquid at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure containing at least one except above-mentioned solvent.
Within the scope of the invention, must be pointed out, fatty compound does not comprise any C 2-C 3oxyalkylene units or any glycerinated unit.
This additional fat compound is different from the liquid aliphatic ester of triglyceride or above-mentioned other than triglycerides, and wherein this fatty acid has 16 or more carbon atom and/or at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond.
This additional fat compound can be selected from other ester, aliphatic hydrocarbon, animal oil, silicone oil, fatty alcohol, non-salify fatty acid and composition thereof.These additional fat compounds can be volatility or nonvolatile.This additional fat compound is preferably selected from aliphatic hydrocarbon, animal oil, silicone oil, fatty alcohol or its mixture.
As the example of other ester, the ester of the satisfied fatty acid such as with 14 or less carbon atoms can be mentioned, as myristinate, such as isopropyl myristate and cetyl myristate.
As the example of aliphatic hydrocarbon, such as straight or branched liquid or solid hydrocarbon can be mentioned, as mineral oil (such as liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or vaseline, ceresine, naphthalene etc.; Parleam, Isoeicosane, poly decene, Parleam, as synthesis squalane (Parleam) and decene/butylene copolymer; And composition thereof.
As the example of other aliphatic hydrocarbon, straight or branched also can be mentioned, or may the C of ring-type 6-C 16lower alkanes.The example that can mention comprises hexane, hendecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffin, as 2-Methylpentadecane and isodecane.
As the example of animal oil, such as Squalene, perhydro Squalene and squalane can be mentioned.
As the example of silicone oil, such as linear organopolysiloxane can be mentioned, as dimethyl polysiloxane, methyl phenyl silicone, methylhydrogenpolysi,oxane etc.; Ring-type organopolysiloxane, as octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane, ten diformazan basic ring six siloxanes etc.; With their mixture.
This additional fat compound can be at least one fatty acid, and can use two or more fatty acids.This fatty acid should be acid form (i.e. non-salify, to avoid soap) and can be saturated or undersaturated and containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 9 to 30 carbon atoms, it is optionally substituted, and is particularly optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (particularly 1 to 4) and replaces.If they are undersaturated, these compounds can comprise 1 to 3 conjugation or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bond.They are particularly selected from myristic acid, Palmic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.This additional fat compound is not preferably fatty acid.
This additional fat compound can be at least one fatty alcohol, and can use two or more fatty alcohol.
Term " fatty alcohol " refers to any saturated or undersaturated straight or branched C at this 8-C 30fatty alcohol, it is optionally substituted, and is particularly optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (particularly 1 to 4) and replaces.If they are undersaturated, these compounds can comprise 1 to 3 conjugation or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bond.
At C 8-C 30in fatty alcohol, use such as C 12-C 22fatty alcohol.Wherein can mention lauryl alcohol, spermol, stearyl alcohol, isooctadecanol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, sub-oleyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, Palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonic alcohol (arachidonyl alcohol) and two lanolin alcohols and composition thereof.In one embodiment, spermol, stearyl alcohol or its mixture (such as cetearyl alcohol) and myristyl alcohol can be used as solid fatty compound.In another embodiment, isooctadecanol can be used as liquid aliphatic compound.
This additional fat compound can be polymer-wax.At this, " wax " refers to that this fatty compound is substantially solid form and has the fusing point of usual 35oC or higher under room temperature (25 DEG C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).As waxiness fatty compound, alone or wax conventional in cosmetics can be combined.
Such as, this polymer-wax is optional from Tissuemat E, as New Phase Technologies company to run after fame the wax sold with " Performalene 400 Polyethylene ", and silicone wax, such as poly-(C 24-C 28) alkyl methyl dimethyl siloxane, as Goldschmidt company with " Abil Wax 9810 " run after fame sell product.
The amount of one or more additional fat compounds described is preferably 0.01 % by weight to 15 % by weight of said composition gross weight, and more preferably 0.05 % by weight to 10 % by weight, more more preferably 0.01 % by weight to 5 % by weight.
The total amount of fat material is preferably 0.01 % by weight to 25 % by weight of said composition gross weight, and more preferably 0.05 % by weight to 15 % by weight, more more preferably 0.1 to 10 % by weight.
(b) oxidant
Cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one oxidant, and can use two or more oxidants.Therefore, the combination of the oxidant of single type or dissimilar oxidant can be used.
This oxidant can be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromate, the iron cyanide, peroxide salt and produce the compound of hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis.Such as, this oxidant can be selected from aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromate and persalt, as perborate and persulfate.
In a preferred embodiment, this oxidant can be selected from hydrogen peroxide and bromate, as alkali metal bromate.
This oxidant is preferably hydrogen peroxide.
Oxidant concentration can be 0.1 to 15 % by weight of the gross weight of cosmetic composition of the present invention, preferably 0.5 to 10 % by weight, more preferably 1 to 5 % by weight.
In one embodiment, when this oxidant is hydrogen peroxide, said composition can comprise at least one stabilizer of hydrogen peroxide, it can be selected from such as alkali and alkaline earth metal ions pyrophosphate, alkali and alkaline earth metal ions stannate, phenacetin and salt that is sour and hydroxyquinoline, such as hydroxyquinoline sulfate.In another embodiment, at least one stannate be optionally combined with at least one pyrophosphate is used.
Salicylic acid and salt, pyridinedicarboxylic acid and salt thereof and acetaminophen can also be used.
In this cosmetic composition, the concentration of stabilizer of hydrogen peroxide can be 0.0001 to 5 % by weight of the gross weight of cosmetic composition of the present invention, as 0.01 to 2 % by weight.
Comprising the compositions of hydrogen peroxide, the concentration ratio of hydrogen peroxide and stabilizing agent can be 0.05:1 to 1,000:1, as 0.1:1 to 500:1, and such as 1:1 to 300:1 further.
(c) cationic polymer
Cosmetic composition of the present invention can comprise at least one cationic polymer.Two or more cationic polymers can be used.Therefore, the combination of the cationic polymer of single type or dissimilar cationic polymer can be used.
It is noted that for the purpose of the present invention, term " cationic polymer " refers to any polymer becoming the group of cation group containing cation group and/or ionizable.
Such polymer can be selected from those of the cosmetic properties of own known improvement hair, is namely especially described in those in patent application EP-A-337 354 and French Patent (FRP) FR-2 270 846,2 383 660,2 598 611,2 470 596 and 2 519 863.
Preferred cationic polymer is selected from containing those of the unit comprising primary, secondary, uncle and/or quaternary amines (they can form a part for host polymer chain or can be carried by the side substituent group be directly connected on it).
Cationic polymer used has about 500 usually to about 5*10 6, preferably approximately 10 3to about 3*10 6the equal molecular mass of number.
In the cationic polymer that can mention, the more particularly polymer of polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary amine type.
These are known product.They are described in French Patent (FRP) No. 2 505 348 and 2 542 997 especially.In the polymer, can mention following.
(1) derived from propylene acid or methacrylate or amide comprise at least one following formula (I), (II), the homopolymer of unit of (III) or (IV) or copolymer:
Wherein
R 3, can be identical or different, refer to hydrogen atom or CH 3group;
A, can be identical or different, and representative has 1 to 6 carbon atom, the preferably straight or branched alkyl of 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or has the hydroxyalkyl of 1 to 4 carbon atom;
R 4, R 5and R 6, can be identical or different, representative contains alkyl or the benzyl of 1 to 18 carbon atom, the alkyl preferably containing 1 to 6 carbon atom;
R 1and R 2, can be identical or different, represent hydrogen or the alkyl containing 1 to 6 carbon atom, preferable methyl or ethyl; And
X refers to derived from inorganic or organic acid anion, as methyl sulfate anions or halide ion, as chloride ion or bromide ion.
The polymer of (1) class also can containing one or more derived from can be selected from acrylamide, Methacrylamide, N-[2-(2-methyl-4-oxopentyl), on nitrogen by low-carbon (LC) (C 1-C 4) AAM and Methacrylamide, acrylic or methacrylic acid or its ester, vinyl lactam is as the unit of the comonomer of vinyl pyrrolidone or caprolactam and vinyl esters.
Therefore, in these polymer of (1) class, can mention:
-acrylamide and the copolymer by dimethyl sulfate or the quaternised dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate of dimethyl halogen, as Hercules company to run after fame the product sold with Hercofloc,
Describe in-such as patent application EP-A-080 976 and to be run after fame the acrylamide and the copolymer of methacryloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride sold with Bina Quat P 100 by Ciba Geigy company,
-Hercules company to run after fame the acrylamide and the copolymer of methyl-sulfuric acid methacryloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium sold with Reten,
-quaternized or on-quaternised vinyl pyrrolidone/dialkyl aminoalkyl acrylates or methacrylate copolymer, as ISP company with " Gafquat " run after fame sell product, such as " Gafquat 734 " or " Gafquat 755 ", or the product being referred to as " Copolymer 845,958 and 937 ".These polymer are described in detail in French Patent (FRP) 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,
-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/caprolactam/vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, as ISP company with Gaffix VC 713 run after fame sell product, and
-ISP especially with Styleze CC 10 run after fame sell vinyl pyrrolidone/methacryloylaminopropyl dimethylamine copolymer, with quartenized vinyl base ketopyrrolidine/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymer, as ISP company with " Gafquat HS 100 " run after fame sell product
-crosslinked methacrylic acyloxy (C 1-C 4) alkyl three (C 1-C 4)-alkylammonium salt polymer, as passed through with the homopolymerization of the quaternised dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate of methyl chloride or by acrylamide and the polymer obtained with the copolymerization of the quaternised dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate of methyl chloride, with crosslinked containing olefinic undersaturated compound, particularly methylene-bisacrylamide after this homopolymerization or copolymerization.Particularly can be used in the crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride copolymer (by weight 20/80) of the dispersion containing copolymer described in 50 % by weight in mineral oil.This dispersion to be run after fame sale with " Salcare SC 92 " by Allied Colloids company.Also crosslinked methacrylic trimethylammonium trimethyl ammonia chloride ammonium homopolymer can be used with the form containing about 50 % by weight these homopolymer in mineral oil or liquid ester.These dispersions to be run after fame sale with " Salcare SC 95 " and " Salcare SC 96 " by Allied Colloids company.
(2) cationic polysaccharide
A) cationic cellulose derivative
Cationic polymer comprise in French Patent (FRP) 1 492 597 describe the cellulose ether derivative comprising quaternary ammonium group, particularly Union Carbide Corporation company with " JR " (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or " LR " (LR 400, LR 30M) run after fame sell polymer.These polymer be also defined as in CTFA dictionary with the epoxide reactive hydroxyethyl-cellulose quaternary ammonium replaced by trimethylammonium group.
They also comprise and are especially described in cellulose copolymer in patent US 4 131 576 or with the monomer-grafted cellulose derivative of water soluble quaternary ammonium, as hydroxy alkyl cellulose, such as especially use methacryloxyethyl trimethylammonium, methacryloylaminopropyl trimethylammonium or the grafting of dimethyldiallylammonium salt methylol-, ethoxy-or hydroxypropyl-cellulose.
The commodity corresponding with this definition more especially National Starch company to be run after fame the product sold with Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100.
B) cation guar gum
Cation guar gum is particularly described in patent US 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, as the guar gum containing trialkylammonium cation group.Such as use the guar gum with ammonium salt (such as chloride) modification of 2,3-glycidyl front three.Such product is especially sold with trade name Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 by Meyhall company.
(3) by piperazinyl units with containing optionally by the polymer that oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen-atoms or the divalent alkyl of straight or branched inserted by aromatic ring or heterocycle or hydroxy alkylidene are formed, and the oxidation of these polymer and/or quaternized products.Such polymer is described especially in French Patent (FRP) 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.
(4) especially by water-soluble polyaminoamide that the polycondensation of acid compound and polyamine is made; These polyaminoamides can be cross-linked with epihalohydrin, diepoxide, dianhydride, unsaturated dianhydride, two-unsaturated derivant, two-halohydrin, two-azetidine (azetidinium), two-halogen acyl group diamidogen, two-alkyl halide or be cross-linked with by the oligomer that can produce with the reaction of the difunctional compound of two-halohydrin, two-azetidine, two-halogen acyl group diamidogen, two-alkyl halide, epihalohydrin, diepoxide or two-unsaturated derivatives reaction; Cross-linking agent uses with the ratio of each amine groups 0.025 to 0.35 mole of polyaminoamide; These polyaminoamides can alkylation, if or they comprise one or more tertiary amine official can, they can be quaternized.Such polymer is described especially in French Patent (FRP) 2 252 840 and 2 368 508.
(5) by polyalkylenepolyamines and polycarboxylic condensation with then with the amide derivatives that difunctionality agent alkylation produces.Can mention such as adipic acid/dialkyl amido hydroxyalkyl two alkylene triamine polymer, wherein alkyl contains 1 to 4 carbon atom and is preferably fingernail base, ethyl or propyl group.Such polymer is described especially in French Patent (FRP) 1 583 363.
In these derivants, particularly can mention Sandoz company with " Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 " run after fame sell adipic acid/dimethylamino hydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamines polymer.
(6) by polymer that the polyalkylenepolyamines containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group and the reaction of dicarboxylic acids of radical of saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids being selected from diglycolic acid and have 3 to 8 carbon atoms obtain.Mol ratio between polyalkylenepolyamines and dicarboxylic acids is 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; Consequent polyaminoamide and chloropropylene oxide are with the molar ratio reaction of the secondary amine group of the chloropropylene oxide/polyaminoamide of 0.5:1 to 1.8:1.Such polymer is described especially in United States Patent (USP) 3 227 615 and 2 961 347.
When adipic acid/glycidyl/diethylenetriamines copolymer, such polymer to be run after fame with " Hercosett 57 " by Hercules Inc. company especially or to be run after fame sale with " PD 170 " or " Delsette 101 " by Hercules company.
(7) cyclopolymer of cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium, as containing the unit meeting formula (V) or (VI) as the homopolymer of the main component of chain or copolymer:
In these formulas
K and t equal 0 or 1, k+t sum equal 1; R 9refer to hydrogen atom or methyl; R 7and R 8refer to that alkyl, the wherein alkyl with 1 to 6 carbon atom preferably has hydroxyalkyl, the low-carbon (LC) (C of 1 to 5 carbon atom independently of one another 1-C 4) amidoalkyl, or R 7and R 8can with they with to nitrogen-atoms together with represent heterocyclic group, as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R 7and R 8preferably refer to the alkyl with 1 to 4 carbon atom independently of one another; Y -anion, as bromide ion, chloride ion, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate anion, bisulfate ion, bisulfite, sulfate radical or phosphate radical.These polymer are described especially in French Patent (FRP) 2 080 759 and certificate of addition (Certificate of Addition) 2 190 406 thereof.
In polymer defined above, particularly can mention Calgon company and run after fame the dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride homopolymer (and homologue of lower molecular wt) sold and running after fame the diallyldimethylammonium chloride and the copolymer of acrylamide sold with " Merquat 550 " with " Merquat 100 ".
(8) containing season two ammonium polymer of repetitive meeting following formula:
In formula (VII):
R 10, R 11, R 12and R 13, can be identical or different, the aliphatic series of representative containing 1 to 20 carbon atom, alicyclic or araliphatic groups or low-carbon (LC) hydroxyalkyl aliphatic group, or R 10, R 11, R 12and R 13together or individually, with they with to nitrogen-atoms together with form optional the second heteroatomic heterocycle containing non-nitrogen, or R 10, R 11, R 12and R 13representative is by nitrile, ester, acyl group or amide group or group-CO-O-R 14-D Huo – CO-NH-R 14the straight or branched C that-D replaces 1-C 6alkyl, wherein R 14be alkylidene and D is quaternary ammonium group;
A 1and B 1the polymethylene of representative containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, it can be straight or branched, saturated or undersaturated, and can containing the one or more aromatic ring be connected on main chain or insert in main chain or one or more oxygen or sulphur atom or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulphide, amino, alkyl amino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, urea groups, amide or ester group, and
X -refer to derived from inorganic or organic acid anion;
A 1, R 10and R 12can with they with to two nitrogen-atoms together with form piperazine ring; In addition, if A 1refer to the saturated of straight or branched or undersaturated alkylidene or hydroxy alkylidene, B 1also group-(CH can be referred to 2) n-CO-D-OC-(CH 2) n-, wherein D refers to:
I) diol residue of formula :-O-Z-O-, wherein Z refers to straight or branched hydrocarbyl group or meets the group of one of following formula:
-(CH 2-CH 2-O) x-CH 2-CH 2-; With
-[CH 2-CH(CH 3)-O] y-CH 2-CH(CH 3)-
Wherein x and y refer to representative regulation with 1 to 4 of the degree of polymerization of uniqueness integer, or represent average degree of polymerization 1 to 4 any number;
Ii) two-secondary diamine residue, as bridged piperazine derivatives;
Iii) formula-NH-Y-NH-'s two-primary diamines residue, wherein Y refers to straight or branched hydrocarbyl group or divalent group-CH 2-CH 2-S-S-CH 2-CH 2-; Or
Iv) urylene of formula-NH-CO-NH-.
X -preferably anion, as chloride ion or bromide ion.
These polymer have the equal molecular mass of number of 1000 to 100 000 usually.
Such polymer is described especially in French Patent (FRP) 2 320 330,2 270 846,2 316 271,2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and United States Patent (USP) 2 273 780,2 375 853,2 388 614,2 454 547,3 206 462,2 261 002,2 271 378,3 874 870,4 001 432,3 929 990,3 966 904,4 005 193,4 025 617,4 025 627,4 025 653,4 026 945 and 4 027 020.
Particularly can use the polymer be made up of the repetitive meeting following formula (VIII):
Wherein
R 10, R 11, R 12and R 13, can be identical or different, refer to the alkyl containing about 1 to 4 carbon atom or hydroxyalkyl, n and p is the integer of about 2 to 20, and X -derived from inorganic or organic acid anion.
(9) polyquaternary polymers be made up of the unit of formula (IX):
Wherein p refers to the integer of about 1 to 6, and D can not exist or represent Ji Tuan – (CH 2) r-CO-, wherein r refers to the number equaling 4 or 7, and
X -it is anion.
This base polymer can be prepared according to the method described in patent US 4 157 388,4 702 906 and 4 719 282.They are especially described in patent application EP-A-122 324.
In these polymer, the example that can mention comprises product " Mirapol A 15 ", " Mirapol AD1 ", " the Mirapol AZ1 " and " Mirapol 175 " of Miranol sold.
(10) the season polymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl imidazole, such as BASF AG with Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 run after fame sell product.
(11) polyamine, as the Polyquart H that Henkel sells, it provides with reference name " Polyethylene Glycol (15) Adeps Bovis seu Bubali polyamine " in CTFA dictionary.
(12) other cationic polymer used in the present invention is polyalkyleneimine, particularly polymine, the condensation substance of the polymer containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridine unit, polyamine and chloropropylene oxide, gathers urylene (polyureylenes) season.
This cationic polymer is preferably selected from (7), (8) and (9) class, and more preferably (7) and (8) class.
In a specific embodiment, cationic polymer is selected from the halid homopolymer of dialkyl diallyl ammonium or copolymer.
The amount of cationic polymer in cosmetic composition of the present invention is not limit, but the amount of cationic polymer can be 0.1 to 5 % by weight of said composition gross weight, and preferably 0.3 to 3 % by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 2 % by weight.
(d) surfactant
Cosmetic composition of the present invention can comprise at least one surfactant.Two or more surfactants can be used.Therefore, the combination of the surfactant of single type or dissimilar surfactant can be used.
Any surfactant can be used for the present invention.This surfactant can be selected from anion surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, cationic surfactant and non-ionic surface active agent.Two or more surfactants can be combined.Therefore, the combination of the surfactant of single type or dissimilar surfactant can be used.Preferably, according to the present invention, " surfactant " can form foam with non-additive water.
(d-1) anion surfactant
This anion surfactant is preferably selected from (C 6-C 30) alkyl sulfate, (C 6-C 30) alkyl ether sulfate, (C 6-C 30) alkyl amido ether sulfate, alkyl aryl polyether sulfate, monoglyceride sulfate; (C 6-C 30) alkylsulfonate, (C 6-C 30) alkylamide sulfonates, (C 6-C 30) alkylaryl sulfonates, alpha-alkene sulfonate, alkane sulfonate; (C 6-C 30) alkylphosphonic; (C 6-C 30) salts of alkyl sulfosuccinates salt, (C 6-C 30) alkyl ether sulfosuccinate, (C 6-C 30) alkylamide sulfosuccinate; (C 6-C 30) alkyl sulfoacetate; (C 6-C 24) acyl sarcosinates; (C 6-C 24) acyl glutamate; (C 6-C 30) alkyl poly glucoside ether carboxylic acid; (C 6-C 30) alkyl poly glucoside sulfosuccinate; (C 6-C 30) alkyl sulfosuccinates amide hydrochlorate; (C 6-C 24) acyl-hydroxyethyl sulfonate; N-(C 6-C 24) acyl taurine salt; C 6-C 30soap; Oleum Cocois hydrochlorate or hydrogenated coconut oleate; (C 8-C 20) acyl lactate; (C 6-C 30) alkyl-D-galactoside glycuronate; Polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-C 30) alkyl ether carboxy acid salt; Polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-C 30) alkylaryl ether carboxylate; With polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-C 30) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids's salt; With corresponding sour form.
In at least one embodiment, this anion surfactant is salt, as alkali metal salt, and such as sodium salt; Alkali salt, such as magnesium salt; Ammonium salt; Amine salt; With the form of amino alkoxide.According to condition, they also can be sour forms.
This anion surfactant is more preferably selected from (C 6-C 30) alkyl sulfate, (C 6-C 30) polyoxyalkylenated (C of alkyl ether sulfate or salify or non-salify 6-C 30) alkyl ether carboxylic acid.
(d-2) amphoteric surfactant
These both sexes or zwitterionic surfactant can be such as (non-limiting list) amine derivatives, as the aliphatic series second month in a season or tertiary amine, with optional quaternary ammonium derivative, wherein aliphatic group is the straight or branched comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and contain at least one water lyotropy anionic group (such as carboxylate radical, sulfonate radical, sulfate radical, phosphate radical or phosphonate radical).
This amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from betanin and amidoamines carboxylation derivant.
The amphoteric surfactant of this betaine-type is preferably selected from alkyl betaine, alkyl amido alkyl betaine, sulfobetaines, phosphorio betanin and alkyl amido alkyl sulfo betaines, particularly (C 8-C 24) alkyl betaine, (C 8-C 24) alkyl amido (C 1-C 8) alkyl betaine, sulfobetaines and (C 8-C 24) alkyl amido (C 1-c 8) alkyl sulfo betaines.In one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactant of betaine-type is selected from (C 8-C 24) alkyl betaine, (C 8-C 24) alkyl amido (C 1-C 8) alkyl sulfo betaines, sulfobetaines and phosphorio betanin.
The limiting examples that can mention is included in CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, coco betaine is sorted in 2002, lauryl betaine, cetyl betaine, cocos nucifera oil/oleoyl amidopropyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl, palmitoylamino CAB, stearamidopropyl betanin, cocoamidoethyl betaine, Cocamidopropyl hydroxyl sulfo betaine, oleoyl hydroxysultaine, cocos nucifera oil hydroxyl sulfo betaine, lauryl hydroxyl sulfo betaine and coco sultaine compound under one's name (separately or as a mixture).
The amphoteric surfactant of betaine-type is preferably alkyl betaine and alkyl amido alkyl betaine, particularly coco betaine and cocoamidopropyl.
In amidoamines carboxylation derivant, can mention as U.S. Patent No. 2,528,378 and 2,781, in 354 describe and at CTFA dictionary, the 3rd edition, its disclosure of 1982(is incorporated herein by this reference) in be sorted in both sexes carboxyl glycinate and both sexes carboxyl propionate to run after fame the product sold with Miranol under one's name, each self-structure is:
R 1-CONHCH 2CH 2-N +(R 2)(R 3)(CH 2COO -) M +X -(B1)
Wherein:
R 1refer to the sour R existed in hydrolysis cocos nucifera oil 1the alkyl of-COOH, heptyl, nonyl or undecyl,
R 2refer to beta-hydroxyethyl,
R 3refer to carboxymethyl,
M +refer to derived from the cation of alkali metal as sodium; Ammonium ion; Or derived from the ion of organic amine;
X -refer to organic or inorganic anion, as halide ion, acetate, phosphate radical, nitrate anion, alkyl (C 1-C 4) sulfate radical, alkyl (C 1-C 4)-or alkyl (C 1-C 4) aryl sulfonic acid root, particularly methylsulfate and ethyl sulphate; Or M +and X -do not exist;
R 1'-CONHCH 2CH 2-N(B)(C) (B2)
Wherein:
R 1' refer to the sour R existed in cocos nucifera oil or hydrolysis Semen Lini oil 1' the alkyl of-COOH, alkyl, as C 7, C 9, C 11or C 13alkyl, C 17alkyl and isotype thereof, or unsaturated C 17group,
B representative-CH 2cH 2oX',
C representative-(CH 2) z-Y', wherein z=1 or 2,
X' refers to-CH 2-COOH group ,-CH 2-COOZ' ,-CH 2cH 2-COOH ,-CH 2cH 2-COOZ' or hydrogen atom, and
Y' refers to-COOH ,-COOZ' ,-CH 2-CHOH-SO 3z' ,-CH 2-CHOH-SO 3h group or-CH 2-CH (OH)-SO 3-Z' group,
Wherein Z' represents alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, as the ion of sodium, ammonium ion or the ion derived from organic amine;
With
R a''-NH-CH(Y'')-(CH 2) n-C(O)-NH-(CH 2) n'-N(Rd)(Re) (B'2)
Wherein:
Y'' refers to-C (O) OH ,-C (O) OZ'' ,-CH 2-CH (OH)-SO 3h or-CH 2-CH (OH)-SO 3-Z'', wherein Z'' refers to derived from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, as the cation of sodium, ammonium ion or the ion derived from organic amine;
Rd and Re refers to C 1-C 4alkyl or C 1-C 4hydroxyalkyl;
R a''refer to the C from acid 10-C 30alkyl or alkenyl, and
N and n' refers to the integer of 1 to 3 independently.
The amphoteric surfactant with formula B1 and B2 is preferably selected from (C 8-C 24)-alkyl both sexes base Monoacetate, (C 8-C 24) alkyl both sexes base diacetin, (C 8-C 24) alkyl both sexes base list propionate and (C 8-C 24) alkyl both sexes base dipropionate.
These compounds are at CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, be sorted in cocos nucifera oil acyl both sexes base oxalic acid disodium, lauroyl both sexes base oxalic acid disodium, caprinoyl both sexes base oxalic acid disodium, decoyl both sexes base oxalic acid disodium, cocos nucifera oil acyl both sexes base disodium beclomethasone, lauroyl both sexes base propanoic acid disodium, caprinoyl both sexes base disodium beclomethasone, decoyl both sexes base disodium beclomethasone, lauroyl both sexes base dipropionic acid and cocos nucifera oil acyl both sexes base dipropionic acid in 1993 under one's name.
Such as, the cocos nucifera oil acyl both sexes base diacetin that Rhodia Chimie company sells with trade name Miranol C2M Concentrate can be mentioned.
In the compound of formula (B'2), can mention CHIMEX with CHIMEXANE HB run after fame sell diethyl amino propyl cocoyl agedoite sodium (CTFA).
(d-3) cationic surfactant
This cationic surfactant can be selected from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salt, quaternary ammonium salt and composition thereof.
The example of the quaternary ammonium salt that can mention includes, but are not limited to:
Those of following general formula (B3):
(B3)
Wherein
R 1, R 2, R 3and R 4, can be identical or different, be selected from and comprise 1 to 30 carbon atom and optionally comprise hetero atom as the straight chain of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen and branched-chain aliphatic group.This aliphatic group can such as be selected from alkyl, alkoxyl, C 2-C 6polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (C 12-C 22) alkyl amido (C 2-C 6) alkyl, (C 12-C 22) alkyl acetates and hydroxyalkyl; And aromatic group, as aryl and alkylaryl; And X -be selected from halide ion, phosphate radical, acetate, lactate, (C 1-C 4) alkyl sulfate and alkyl azochlorosulfonate or alkyl aryl sulphonic acid root;
The quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline, those of such as following formula (B4):
(B4)
Wherein:
R 5be selected from the thiazolinyl and alkyl that comprise 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the derivative of fatty acid of such as Adeps Bovis seu Bubali or Cortex cocois radicis;
R 6be selected from hydrogen, C 1-C 4alkyl and the thiazolinyl and the alkyl that comprise 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
R 7be selected from C 1-C 4alkyl;
R 8be selected from hydrogen and C 1-C 4alkyl; And
X -be selected from halide ion, phosphate radical, acetate, lactate, alkyl sulfate, alkyl azochlorosulfonate and alkyl aryl sulphonic acid root.In one embodiment, R 5and R 6such as be selected from the mixture comprising the thiazolinyl of 12 to 21 carbon atoms and the group of alkyl, as Tallow fatty acid derivative, R 7be methyl and R 8hydrogen.The example of this series products includes, but not limited to quaternary ammonium salt (Quaternium)-27(CTFA 1997) and quaternary ammonium salt-83(CTFA 1997), they to be run after fame sale with " Rewoquat " W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by Witco company;
Two or three quaternary ammonium salts of formula (B5):
(B5)
Wherein:
R 9be selected from the aliphatic group comprising 16 to 30 carbon atoms;
R 10be selected from hydrogen or comprise alkyl or the group-(CH of 1 to 4 carbon atom 2) 3(R 16a) (R 17a) (R 18a) N +x- -;
R 11, R 12, R 13, R 14, R 16a, R 17aand R 18a, can be identical or different, be selected from hydrogen and the alkyl comprising 1 to 4 carbon atom; And
X -be selected from halide ion, acetate, phosphate radical, nitrate anion, ethyl sulphate and methylsulfate.
A kind of example of such di-quaternary ammonium salt is the FINQUAT CT-P(quaternary ammonium salt-89 of FINETEX) or FINQUAT CT(quaternary ammonium salt-75);
With
Comprise the quaternary ammonium salt of at least one ester functional group, as shown in the formula those of (B6):
Wherein:
R 22be selected from C 1-C 6alkyl and C 1-C 6hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl;
R 23be selected from:
The group of following formula:
Straight chain and side chain, saturated and undersaturated C 1-c 22hydrocarbyl group R 27and hydrogen,
R 25be selected from:
The group of following formula:
Straight chain and side chain, saturated and undersaturated C 1-C 6hydrocarbyl group R 29and hydrogen,
R 24, R 26and R 28, can be identical or different, be selected from straight chain and side chain, saturated and undersaturated C 7-C 21hydrocarbyl group;
R, s and t, can be identical or different, is selected from the integer of 2 to 6;
R1 and t1 separately, can be identical or different, is 0 or 1, and r2+r1=2r and t1+t2=2t;
Y is selected from the integer of 1 to 10;
X and z, can be identical or different, is selected from the integer of 0 to 10;
X -be selected from simple and complicated organic and inorganic anion; Condition is summation x+y+z is 1 to 15, when x is 0, and R 23refer to R 27, when z is 0, R 25refer to R 29.R 22straight chain and branched alkyl can be selected from.In one embodiment, R 22be selected from straight chained alkyl.In another embodiment, R 22be selected from methyl, ethyl, ethoxy and dihydroxypropyl, such as methyl and ethyl.In one embodiment, summation x+y+z is 1 to 10.Work as R 23hydrocarbyl group R 27time, it can be grown and comprise 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or can be short and comprise 1 to 3 carbon atom.Work as R 25hydrocarbyl group R 29time, it can comprise such as 1 to 3 carbon atom.As limiting examples, in one embodiment, R 24, R 26and R 28, can be identical or different, be selected from straight chain and side chain, saturated and undersaturated C 11-C 21hydrocarbyl group, such as, be selected from straight chain and side chain, saturated and undersaturated C 11-C 21alkyl and thiazolinyl.In another embodiment, x and z, can be identical or different, is 0 or 1.In one embodiment, y equals 1.In another embodiment, r, s and t, can be identical or different, equals 2 or 3, such as, equal 2.Anion X -such as halide ion can be selected from, as chloride ion, bromide ion and iodide ion; And C 1-C 4alkyl sulfate, as methylsulfate.But, methanesulfonate, phosphate radical, nitrate anion, tosylate, derived from organic acid anion, as acetate and lactate, and any other anion compatible with the ammonium comprising ester functional group is other limiting examples of anion that can be used according to the invention.In one embodiment, anion X -be selected from chloride ion and methylsulfate.
In another embodiment, the ammonium salt of formula (B6) can be used, wherein:
R 22be selected from methyl and ethyl,
X and y equals 1;
Z equals 0 or 1;
R, s and t equal 2;
R 23be selected from:
Following groups:
Methyl, ethyl and C 14-C 22hydrocarbyl group, hydrogen;
R 25be selected from:
Following groups:
And hydrogen;
R 24, R 26and R 28, can be identical or different, be selected from straight chain and side chain, saturated and undersaturated C 13-C 17hydrocarbyl group, such as, be selected from straight chain and side chain, saturated and undersaturated C 13-C 17alkyl and thiazolinyl.
In one embodiment, this hydrocarbyl group is straight chain.
The limiting examples of the compound of the formula (B6) that can mention comprises the salt of two dimethylbenzylammonium ammoniums, two trimethylammonium hydroxyethyl methyl-ammoniums, mono-acyloxy ethyl dihydroxy ethyl ammonium methyl, three acyloxy ethyl-methyl ammoniums, mono-acyloxy ethyl-hydroxyethyl Dimethyl Ammonium, such as chloride and Methylsulfate and their mixture.In one embodiment, this acyl group can comprise 14 to 18 carbon atoms and can derived from such as vegetable oil, such as Petiolus Trachycarpi oil and sunflower oil.When this compound comprises several acyl group, these groups can be identical or different.
Can such as by obtaining these products in optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or the direct esterification to fatty acid of alkyl diisopropanolamine (DIPA) or on the fatty acid mixt of plant or animal origin or by the ester exchange of their methyl ester.After this esterification, can use and be selected from alkyl halide, such as methyl and ethyl halide; Dialkyl sulfate, such as dimethyl sulfate and dithyl sulfate; Methyl mesylate; Methyl tosylate; Glycol chlorohydrin; Quaternized with the alkylating agent of glycerin chlorohydrin (glycerol chlorohydrin).
Such as Cognis company runs after fame with Dehyquart, Stepan company runs after fame with Stepanquat, Ceca company runs after fame with Noxamium and Rewo-Goldschmidt company runs after fame with " Rewoquat WE 18 " sells such compound.
Other limiting examples of available ammonium salt in the present compositions comprises U.S. Patent No. 4,874,554 and 4,137, the ammonium salt comprising at least one ester functional group described in 180.
Available quaternary ammonium salt mentioned above in the present compositions comprises, but be not limited to, meet those of formula (I), such as tetra-alkyl ammonium chloride, such as dialkyl dimethyl ammonium and alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, wherein alkyl comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, as mountain Yu base trimethyl ammonium, distearyl dimethyl-ammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium ammonium and benzyl dimethoylstearyl ammonium chloride; Palmitoylamino hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; With stearamidopropyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride of sale of being run after fame with " Ceraphyl 70 " by Van Dyk company.
According to an embodiment, available cationic surfactant is in the present compositions selected from mountain Yu base trimethyl ammonium chloride, CTAB, quaternary ammonium salt-83, quaternary ammonium salt-87, quaternary ammonium salt-22, mountain Yu base cocamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, palmitoylamino hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and stearamido propyl.
(d-4) non-ionic surface active agent
This non-ionic surface active agent is that known compound itself is (in this respect see such as " Handbook of Surfactants ", M.R. Porter work, Blackie & Son publishes (Glasgow and London), and 1991,116-178 page).Therefore, they such as can be selected from polyethoxylated, the alcohol gathering the fatty acid of propoxylation or bound to polyglycerol, salmefamol, alkyl phenol and ester, and there is at least one aliphatic chain comprising such as 8 to 18 carbon atoms, oxirane or propylene oxide group number can be 1 to 100, and glycerol group number can be 1 to 30.Also maltose derivatives can be mentioned.Also the copolymer of oxirane and/or expoxy propane can be mentioned without limitation; The condensation substance of oxirane and/or expoxy propane and fatty alcohol; Comprise the polyethoxylated fatty amides of such as 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; Comprise such as 1 to 5 glycerol group, as the bound to polyglycerol fatty acid amide of 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups; Comprise the ethoxylated fatty acid ester of the anhydrosorbitol of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; From the ethyoxyl carburetion of plant origin; The fatty acid ester of sucrose; The fatty acid ester of Polyethylene Glycol; The fatty-acid monoester of glycerol or diester; (C 6-C 24alkyl) polyglucoside; N-(C 6-C 24alkyl) glucosamine derivatives, amine oxide, as oxidation (C 10-C 14) alkylamine or oxidation N-(C 10-C 14) cocamidopropyl morpholine; With their mixture.
This non-ionic surface active agent is preferably selected from the non-ionic surface active agent of single oxyalkylenated or polyoxygenated alkylene, monoglycerolifying or multiglycerolifying.This oxyalkylene units is oxygen ethylene or oxypropylene units or its combination more especially, preferred oxygen ethylene unit.
The example of the oxyalkylenated non-ionic surface active agent that can mention comprises:
Oxyalkylenated (C 8-C 24) alkyl phenol,
The oxyalkylenated C of saturated or undersaturated, straight or branched 8-C 30alcohol,
The oxyalkylenated C of saturated or undersaturated, straight or branched 8-C 30amide,
The C of saturated or undersaturated, straight or branched 8-C 30the ester of acid and Polyethylene Glycol,
The C of saturated or undersaturated, straight or branched 8-C 30the polyoxyalkylenated ester of acid and Sorbitol,
Saturated or undersaturated oxyalkylenated vegetable oil,
Especially the condensation substance of oxirane and/or expoxy propane, they are alone or as mixture.
This surfactant can containing 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 50 oxirane and/or expoxy propane molal quantity.Advantageously, this non-ionic surface active agent does not comprise any oxypropylene units.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, this oxyalkylenated non-ionic surface active agent is selected from oxyethylation C 8-C 30alcohol or ethoxylated fat ester.
The ethoxylized fatty alcohol that can mention (or C 8-C 30alcohol) example comprise the adduct of oxirane and lauryl alcohol, especially containing those of 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups groups, those (CTFA is called laureth-10 to laureth-12) more especially containing 10 to 12 oxyethylene groups groups; The adduct of oxirane and behenyl alcohol, those (CTFA is called behenyl alcohol polyethers-9 to behenyl alcohol polyethers-50) especially containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene group groups; The adduct of oxirane and cetearyl alcohol (mixture of spermol and stearyl alcohol), those (CTFA is called ceteareth-10 to ceteareth-30) especially containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene group groups; The adduct of oxirane and spermol, those (CTFA is called ceteth-10 to ceteth-30) especially containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene group groups; The adduct of oxirane and stearyl alcohol, those (CTFA is called stereth-10 to stereth-30) especially containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene group groups; The adduct of oxirane and isooctadecanol, those (CTFA is called isosteareth-10 to isosteareth-50) especially containing 10 to 50 oxyethylene group groups; With their mixture.
The example of the ethoxylated fat ester that can mention comprises the adduct of ester and composition thereof of oxirane and lauric acid, Palmic acid, stearic acid Huo behenic acid, especially containing those of 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups group, as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA name: PEG-9 laurate is to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 cetylate (CTFA name: PEG-9 cetylate is to PEG-50 cetylate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA name: PEG-9 stearate is to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA name: PEG-9 behenate is to PEG-50 behenate); With their mixture.
Also the mixture of these oxyethylation derivants of fatty alcohol and fatty ester can be used.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one ethoxylized fatty alcohol.
As the example of monoglycerolifying or multiglycerolifying non-ionic surface active agent, preferably use monoglycerolifying or multiglycerolifying C 8-C 40alcohol.
This monoglycerolifying or multiglycerolifying C 8-C 40alcohol meets following formula especially:
RO-[CH 2-CH (CH 2oH)-O] m-H or RO-[CH (CH 2oH)-CH 2o] m-H
Wherein R represents straight or branched C 8-C 40, preferred C 8-C 30alkyl or alkenyl, and m represents 1 to 30, the preferably numerical value of 1 to 10.
As the example being applicable to compound of the present invention, the lauryl alcohol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 Laurel ether) containing 4 mole of glycerin, the lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mole of glycerin, the oleyl alcohol containing 4 mole of glycerin (INCI name: the oily ether of polyglyceryl-4), oleyl alcohol (INCI name: the oily ether of polyglyceryl-2) containing 2 mole of glycerin, the cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mole of glycerin, the cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mole of glycerin, the oleyl alcohol spermol containing 6 mole of glycerin and the octadecanol containing 6 mole of glycerin can be mentioned.
This alcohol can represent the mixture of alcohol, and the value as m represents statistical value, this means in commodity, and the multiglycerolifying fatty alcohol of several kind can coexist as a mixture.
In monoglycerolifying or multiglycerolifying alcohol, particularly preferably use the C containing 1 mole of glycerin 8/ C 10alcohol, C containing 1 mole of glycerin 10/ C 12alcohol and the C containing 1.5 mole of glycerin 12alcohol.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the amount of one or more surfactants can be 0.1 to 20 % by weight of the gross weight of cosmetic composition of the present invention, preferably 0.5 to 15 % by weight, more preferably 1 to 10 % by weight.
(e) other component
Cosmetic composition of the present invention can comprise aqueous medium.
Medium in cosmetic composition of the present invention can comprise water.The water yield can be 99 % by weight or lower of said composition gross weight, preferably 50 to 99 % by weight, more preferably 60 to 95 % by weight, more more preferably 70 to 90 % by weight.
This aqueous medium can comprise at least one organic solvent further.It is miscible that this organic solvent is preferably water.As organic solvent, such as C can be mentioned 1-C 4alkanol, as ethanol and isopropyl alcohol; Glycerol; Glycol and glycol ethers, as the monomethyl ether of butoxy ethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol, single ethylether of diethylene glycol and monomethyl ether, and aromatic alcohol, as benzylalcohol and phenyl phenol, their similar product and mixture.
This organic solvent can with 1 to 40 % by weight of said composition gross weight, and preferably 1 to 30 % by weight, more preferably the amount of 5 to 20 % by weight exists.
The form of cosmetic composition of the present invention is not particularly limited and can presents various forms, as O/W emulsion, W/O emulsion, hydrogel, aqueous solution etc.O/W form of emulsion is preferred.
The pH of cosmetic composition of the present invention is less than 8.It can be preferably 1.5 to 7.9, and more preferably 1.5 to 7, more more preferably 2 to 4 and at least one acidulant commonly known in the art can be used to be adjusted to desirable value.
This acidulant can be such as mineral acid or organic acid, such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carboxylic acid, such as tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid or sulfonic acid.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention is prepared by using common mixing device such as blender and the above-mentioned basic or optional components of homogenizer mixing.
(system or cover box)
Cosmetic composition of the present invention can this cosmetic composition face use before prepare.
In this case, cosmetic composition of the present invention can be mixed with many compartment systems or cover box, wherein the first compartment comprises according to fat material of the present invention, and the second compartment comprises oxidant, and the pH of the mixture of the compositions wherein in the first and second compartments is less than 8.
This many compartment systems can be furnished with the device for mixing and/or apply said components, as valve and nozzle.
Therefore, according to an embodiment, this many compartment systems or cover box comprise, at least
First compartment, and
Second compartment,
Wherein
First compartment comprises at least one fat material, and it comprises the liquid aliphatic acid esters of vegetable oil that at least one formed derived from the triglyceride of fatty acid by least one and/or at least one other than triglycerides, and
Second compartment comprises at least one oxidant,
Wherein
A) fatty acid in triglyceride relative to 50 % by weight or more of its gross weight, there are 18 or more carbon atom and at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond,
Fatty acid in the liquid aliphatic acid esters of b) other than triglycerides has 16 or more carbon atom and/or at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and
The pH of the compositions c) obtained by the content mixed in the first and second compartments is less than 8.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used for such as scalding keratin fiber by a kind of method volume, and as hair, described method comprises such as step:
At the reducing cosmetic compositions wet or on dry keratin fiber, applying comprises at least one reducing agent;
After such as open-assembly time of about 5 to 40 minutes, rinse keratin fiber; With
Apply cosmetic composition of the present invention.After such as open-assembly time of about 1 to 20 minute, rinse this fiber; And optionally use shampoo washes, then rinse, then dry.
The applying of this cosmetic composition can at room temperature or by producing 40 to 220 DEG C, and preferably the heating apparatus of temperature of 40 to 80 DEG C realizes.
This reducing agent is selected from vulcanizing compounds and unvulcanised compound usually.
Vulcanizing compounds is selected from mercaptan, sulphite and bisulfites usually.Mercaptan is preferably selected from TGA or 2-mercaptopropionic acid or cysteine and their salt.
Unvulcanised compound is selected from phosphine, hydride or reductone usually, especially ascorbic acid or arabo-ascorbic acid and their salt.
Reducing agent preferably accounts for 0.01 to 20 % by weight of the gross weight of this reducing cosmetic compositions, and preferably 0.1 to 15 % by weight, more preferably 1 to 10 % by weight.
This reducing cosmetic compositions can comprise at least one alkaline agent.This alkaline agent can be inorganic alkaline agent.Inorganic alkaline agent is preferably selected from ammonia, alkali metal salt; Alkali salt; Alkali metal hydroxide; And alkaline earth metal hydroxide.
As the example of inorganic alkali hydroxide, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide can be mentioned.As the example of alkaline earth metal hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide can be mentioned.Sodium hydroxide is preferred.
This alkaline agent can be organic alkaline agent.This organic alkaline agent is preferably selected from monoamine and derivant thereof; Diamidogen and derivant thereof; Polyamines and derivant thereof; Basic amino acid and derivant thereof; The oligomer of basic amino acid and derivant thereof; The polymer of basic amino acid and derivant thereof; Urea and derivant thereof; With guanidine and derivant thereof.
As the example of organic alkaline agent, can alkanolamine be mentioned, as single-, two-and three-ethanolamine and isopropanolamine; Urea, guanidine and their derivant; Basic amino acid, as lysine or arginine; And diamidogen, those as described in having structure:
Wherein W refers to optionally by hydroxyl or C 1-C 4the alkylidene that alkyl replaces, as propylidene, and R a, R b, R cand R drefer to hydrogen atom, alkyl or C independently 1-C 4hydroxyalkyl, it can with 1,3-propane diamine and derivant thereof for example.Arginine, urea and monoethanolamine are preferred.
According to an embodiment, this alkaline agent is alkanolamine, preferred monoethanolamine.
Alkaline agent can with 0.1 to 20 % by weight of the gross weight of this reducing cosmetic compositions, and preferably 1 to 15 % by weight, more preferably the total amount of 3 to 10 % by weight uses.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention also can be used as the oxidising composition of keratin fiber as the dyeing of hair, especially when using oxidative coloration of hair agent as primary intermediate (primary intermediates) and coupling agent.
In a preferred embodiment, compositions of the present invention is used for hair-waving.
Embodiment
Be described in more detail the present invention by embodiment, but they should not be regarded as limiting the scope of the invention.
Preparation has the following compositions of the formula (active component be weight %) shown in table 1 as reducing solution.
Table 1
Composition % by weight
Ammonium bicarbonate 4.5
Penetenoic acid five sodium (40% aqueous solution) 0.2
TGA 5.7
Ammonia (20% aqueous solution) 5.2
Two thioglycolic acid diammonium (40% aqueous solution) 4
Spice 0.4
The U.S. oronain in sea 1.0
DOW CORNING 949 cation emulsion 2
Oleth-20 1
Amphoteric surfactant 1.4
Water qsp 100
[compositions 1 to 3]
Compositions 1 to the 3(active component that preparation has a formula shown in table 2 is be weight %) as oxidation solution, i.e. the Part I of two part nertralizer or part A.
Table 2(A part: oxidation solution)
Composition Compositions 1 % by weight Compositions 2 % by weight Compositions 3 % by weight
Hydrogen peroxide (35% aqueous solution) 5.722 5.722 8.583
Stabilizing agent 0.266 0.266 0.400
Polyquaternary ammonium salt-6 (40% aqueous solution) - 1.389 2.083
Antiseptic 0.039 0.039 0.058
N-Dodecyldimethylamine oxide 2.389 2.389 3.582
Phosphoric acid Regulate pH to 3.0 Regulate pH to 3.0 Regulate pH to 3.0
Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100
[compositions 4 and 5]
Preparation has the compositions 4 of the formula shown in table 3 and 5(active component be weight %) as emulsion, i.e. the Part II of two part nertralizer or part B.
Table 3(B part: emulsion)
Composition Compositions 4 % by weight Compositions 5 % by weight
Ispol 0.024 0.024
Amino-1, the 3-octacosanol of 2-oleoyl 0.2 0.2
Jojoba oil 1.0 4.0
Stearyl alcohol 1.5 1.5
Antiseptic 0.23 0.23
DOW CORNING 949 cation emulsion 3.0 3.0
Diglycerol 2.0 2.0
POLYSORBATE 20 0.2 0.2
Mountain Yu base trimethyl ammonium chloride 3.0 3.0
Tocopherol acetas 0.01 0.01
Water qsp 100 qsp 100
PH at 25 DEG C 4.96 5.19
[compositions 6 to 9]
Compositions 6 to the 9(active component that preparation has a formula shown in table 4 is be weight %) as emulsion, i.e. the Part II of two part nertralizer or part B.
Table 4(B part: emulsion)
Composition Compositions 6 % by weight Compositions 7 % by weight Compositions 8 % by weight Compositions 9 % by weight
Ispol 0.024 0.024 0.024 0.024
Amino-1, the 3-octacosanol of 2-oleoyl 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Olive oil 1.0 - - -
Isooctadecanol - 1.0 - -
Oleum Cocois - - 1.0 -
Stearyl alcohol 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
Antiseptic 0.23 0.23 0.23 0.23
DOW CORNING 949 cation emulsion 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0
Diglycerol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
POLYSORBATE 20 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Mountain Yu base trimethyl ammonium chloride 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0
Tocopherol acetas 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01
Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100
PH at 25 DEG C 5.42 4.45 4.87 4.43
[assessment 1]
80 grams of above-mentioned reducing solutions are applied to moistening in advance and twist on the testing crew hair on curling-tong.Making reducing solution effect after about 15 minutes, fully rinse hair with water.
Then, following oxidation hair.
Each compositions 1 and 2 is mixed the oxidant to prepare comparative example 4 and 5 with the water weight ratio with 90:10 as shown in table 5.
On the other hand, mix as shown in table 5 for the compositions in part A and part B with the emulsifying oxidant preparing embodiment 1 to 4 and comparative example 1 to 3 with the weight ratio of 90:10.This mixing is very easy to, and the oxidant obtained according to embodiment 1 to 4 that is exceedingly fast.
The oxidant of comparative example 5 in contrast thing is applied on half hair, and the oxidant of embodiment 1 to 4 and comparative example 1 to 4 is applied on second half hair separately.The oxidant of embodiment 1 to 4 easily applies.Oxidant is made to stay hair upper 5 minute.Then, hair is fully rinsed also dry.Easily rinse with the oxidizing hair of embodiment 1 to 4.
After hair drying, testing crew is based on the wave intensity of following evaluation criteria assessment hair, elasticity, smoothness and pliability.
(evaluation criteria)
wave intensity
+: efficiency of perming preferably
-: lower curly hair efficiency
±: be neither
elasticity
+: elasticity preferably
-: lower elasticity
±: be neither
smoothness
+: smoothness preferably
-: lower smoothness
±: be neither
pliability
+: pliability preferably
-: lower pliability
±: be neither.
Above-mentioned test is carried out to 5 testing crews, and assessment result is average.Provide average result in table 5.
Table 5
[compositions 10 and 11]
Preparation has the compositions 10 of the formula shown in table 6 and 11(active component be weight %) as oxidation solution, i.e. the Part I of two part nertralizer or part A.
Table 6(A part: oxidation solution)
Composition Compositions 10 % by weight Compositions 11 % by weight
Phosphate buffer 0.889 0.889
Sodium bromate 8.889 8.889
Polyquaternary ammonium salt-6 (40% aqueous solution) - 1.389
Antiseptic 0.044 0.044
N-Dodecyldimethylamine oxide 2.389 2.389
Water qsp 100 qsp 100
PH at 25 DEG C 7.50 7.50
[assessment 2]
80 grams of above-mentioned reducing solutions are applied to moistening in advance and twist on the testing crew hair on curling-tong.Making reducing solution effect after about 15 minutes, fully rinse hair with water.
Then, following oxidation hair.
Each compositions 10 and 11 is mixed the oxidant to prepare comparative example 7 and 8 with the water weight ratio with 90:10 as shown in table 7.
On the other hand, mix as shown in table 7 for the compositions in part A and part B with the oxidant of the emulsifying oxidant and comparative example 6 of preparing embodiment 5 with the weight ratio of 90:10.This mixing is very easy to, and the oxidant obtained according to embodiment 5 that is exceedingly fast.
The oxidant of comparative example 8 in contrast thing is applied on half hair, and the oxidant of embodiment 5 and comparative example 6 and 7 is applied on second half hair separately.The oxidant of embodiment 5 easily applies.Oxidant is made to stay hair upper 5 minute.Then, hair is fully rinsed also dry.Easily rinse with the oxidizing hair of embodiment 5.
After hair drying, testing crew assesses the wave intensity of hair, elasticity, smoothness and pliability based on the evaluation criteria identical with shown in [assessing 1].
Above-mentioned test is carried out to 5 testing crews, and assessment result is average.Provide average result in table 7.
Table 7

Claims (16)

1., for a cosmetic composition for keratin fiber, it comprises:
-at least one fat material, it comprises the vegetable oil that (i) at least one is formed derived from the triglyceride of fatty acid by least one, and/or the liquid aliphatic acid esters of (ii) at least one other than triglycerides; With
-at least one oxidant,
Wherein
A) fatty acid in triglyceride relative to 50 % by weight or more of its gross weight, there are 18 or more carbon atom and at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond;
Fatty acid in the liquid aliphatic acid esters of b) other than triglycerides has 16 or more carbon atom and/or at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond; And
C) pH of described compositions is lower than 8.
2. cosmetic composition according to claim 1, the fatty acid wherein in one or more triglyceride relative to 50 % by weight to 100 % by weight of its gross weight, preferably 60 % by weight to 90 % by weight have 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond.
3., according to the cosmetic composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein said fat material comprises at least one vegetable oil.
4., according to the cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein said vegetable oil is selected from olive oil, Camellia oil, cameline oil, Oleum Brassicae campestris, Fructus Coriandri oil, Jojoba oil, almond oil, white awns caul-fat, sunflower oil, Semen Maydis oil, Oleum Gossypii semen, borage oil, Oleum sesami, safflower oil, Ba Kasi oil, argan oil and almond oil.
5., according to the cosmetic composition of any one of Claims 1-4, wherein said vegetable oil is selected from olive oil, Camellia oil, Fructus Coriandri oil, Jojoba oil, almond oil, white awns caul-fat, Ba Kasi oil and almond oil.
6., according to the cosmetic composition of any one of claim 1 to 5, wherein said vegetable oil is olive oil or Jojoba oil.
7., according to the cosmetic composition of any one of claim 1 to 6, the liquid aliphatic acid esters of wherein said other than triglycerides is selected from sub-oleyl alcohol lactate; Oleyl alcohol lactate; Decyl oleate; Different spermol isostearate; Isooctadecanol cetylate; Octyl dodecanol eruciate; Oleyl alcohol eruciate; Ethyl palmitate, cetin and isopropyl palmitate; Palmic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite; With Palmic acid 2-octyl group ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems.
8. according to the cosmetic composition of any one of claim 1 to 7, the amount of the liquid aliphatic acid esters of one or more vegetable oil wherein said and/or other than triglycerides is 0.01 % by weight to 10 % by weight of described composition total weight, preferably 0.05 % by weight to 5 % by weight, more preferably 0.1 % by weight to 1 % by weight.
9., according to the cosmetic composition of any one of claim 1 to 8, wherein said fat material comprises the additional fatty compound of at least one, is preferably selected from other ester, aliphatic hydrocarbon, animal oil, silicone oil, fatty alcohol, polymer-wax and composition thereof.
10., according to the cosmetic composition of any one of claim 1 to 9, the total amount of one or more fat materials wherein said is 0.01 % by weight to 25 % by weight of described composition total weight, preferably 0.05 % by weight to 15 % by weight, more preferably 0.1 % by weight to 10 % by weight.
11. according to the cosmetic composition of any one of claim 1 to 10, and wherein said oxidant is hydrogen peroxide or bromate, preferred hydrogen peroxide.
12. according to the cosmetic composition of any one of claim 1 to 11, and the amount of one or more oxidants wherein said is 0.1 % by weight to 15 % by weight of described composition total weight, and preferably 0.5 % by weight to 10 % by weight, more preferably 1 % by weight to 5 % by weight.
13. according to the cosmetic composition of any one of claim 1 to 12, and it comprises at least one cationic polymer and/or at least one surfactant further.
14. according to the cosmetic composition of any one of claim 1 to 13, and it has 1.5 to 7.9, preferably 1.5 to 7, more more preferably 2 to 4 pH scope.
15. volumes scald keratin fiber, the method for preferred hair, it is characterized in that using the cosmetic composition according to any one of claim 1 to 14.
Compartment systems more than 16. 1 kinds or cover box, it at least comprises
-the first compartment, and
-the second compartment,
Wherein
First compartment comprises at least one fat material, and it comprises the vegetable oil that (i) at least one is formed derived from the triglyceride of fatty acid by least one, and/or the liquid aliphatic acid esters of (ii) at least one other than triglycerides, and
Second compartment comprises at least one oxidant, and
Wherein
A) fatty acid in one or more triglyceride relative to 50 % by weight or more of its gross weight, there are 18 or more carbon atom and at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond;
Fatty acid in the liquid aliphatic acid esters of b) other than triglycerides has 16 or more carbon atom and/or at least one carbon-to-carbon double bond; And
The pH of the compositions c) obtained by the content mixed in the first and second compartments is less than 8.
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