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CN102949328A - Toning lotion with functions of anti-senile, wrinkle-dispelling and moisturizing and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Toning lotion with functions of anti-senile, wrinkle-dispelling and moisturizing and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN102949328A
CN102949328A CN2012104727586A CN201210472758A CN102949328A CN 102949328 A CN102949328 A CN 102949328A CN 2012104727586 A CN2012104727586 A CN 2012104727586A CN 201210472758 A CN201210472758 A CN 201210472758A CN 102949328 A CN102949328 A CN 102949328A
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extract
skin
astringent
water
moisturizing
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CN102949328B (en
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李卫旗
贺亮
韦朝阳
王海英
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Zhejiang University ZJU
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种具有抗衰祛皱和保湿补水功效的化妆水及其制备方法。该化妆水由醇相、水相和添加剂组成,其中醇相和水相由以下质量百分比的组分组成:醇相:霍霍巴油3%~5%、硅油3%~6%、蛋黄卵磷脂2%~3%;以及,水相:透明质酸0.1%~0.5%、维生素A0.02%~0.1%、柠檬酸0.1%~0.5%、锥栗总苞提取物1%~6%、竹叶提取物1%~6%、灵芝提取物1%~6%、阿胶1%~5%和水余量。该化妆水制备时只需要将各组分混合均匀即可,操作简单,适于工业化生产。The invention discloses a lotion with anti-aging, wrinkle-removing, moisturizing and water-replenishing functions and a preparation method thereof. The lotion is composed of alcohol phase, water phase and additives, wherein the alcohol phase and water phase are composed of the following components in mass percentage: alcohol phase: jojoba oil 3%~5%, silicone oil 3%~6%, egg yolk lecithin 2%~3%; and, water phase: hyaluronic acid 0.1%~0.5%, vitamin A 0.02%~0.1%, citric acid 0.1%~0.5%, chestnut involucre extract 1%~6%, bamboo Leaf extract 1%~6%, Ganoderma lucidum extract 1%~6%, Ejiao 1%~5% and water balance. The preparation of the lotion only needs to mix the components evenly, the operation is simple, and it is suitable for industrial production.

Description

A kind of astringent with anti-ageing wrinkle removal and moisturizing moisturizing effect and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to cosmetic field, be specifically related to a kind of astringent with anti-ageing wrinkle removal and moisturizing moisturizing effect and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
Skin is the organ of people's bulk area maximum, covers whole body, is made of epidermis, corium and subcutaneous tissue.Skin is that human body is to the first " fire wall " of external adverse environment, it makes the interior various tissues of body and organ avoid the invasion and attack of physical property, mechanicalness, chemical and pathogenic microorganism, the barrier action with two aspects: prevent that on the one hand moisture content, electrolyte, other materials are lost in the body; Stop on the other hand the intrusion of extraneous harmful substance.With advancing age with the impact of external environment, the moisturizing mechanism of skin sustains damage, the Moisture factor such as collagen protein can run off gradually, skin tissue cell and intercellular moisture reduce, cause cell arrangement tight, the loss of collagen protein causes supporting collagen peptide bond and the elasticated net fracture of skin, and its spiral net-shaped structure is destroyed immediately, skin histology is oxidized, atrophy, subside, and drying, wrinkle, the aging phenomenon such as lax nonelastic will appear in skin.And, according to the free radical theory of aging, can produce free radical in many substance metabolism processes in the body, excessive free radical will cause body injury, thereby causes and accelerates aging." everybody has a love of beauty ", especially the women more pays attention to, and since ancient times, people just just have continuous pursuit to the cosmetics that beautify self.
Along with develop rapidly and the extensive use of modern science and technology, along with improving constantly of living standard, cosmetics become indispensable the articles for daily use people's life from luxury goods.The requirement of cosmetics is also being improved, is day by day tending to natural, nutrition, safe and non-stimulating property etc., cosmetics from the basic skin care item of clean skin, skin moistening to slow down aging, wrinkle removal, beautify the functional type cosmetics future development of skin.The basic nursing of skin mainly comprises clean skin, skin-active, three steps of skin protection, and astringent is the requisite articles for use of daily beauty and skin care as the pivotal player of " taking over from the past and setting a new course for the future " in the basic nursing trilogy.It can be used to clean residual at skin of clean product, can regulate the acid-base balance of skin, makes skin be in the optimum state that absorbs nutrition, keeps the skin wet and nutrition for skin rapidly, and clears away glossy convergence pore.
At present about the existing a lot of reports of the research of astringent, be that the Chinese patent application of CN101966135A discloses a kind of astringent that contains nanometer skin moistening composition such as publication number, comprise: surfactant 0.1% ~ 20%, polyhydric alcohol 0.1% ~ 30%, emollient 0.1% ~ 20%, wetting agent 0.1% ~ 30%, antiseptic 0.001 ~ 3%, other additive 0.01% ~ 15% and water 50 ~ 98%; The particle diameter of the emollient of above-mentioned astringent is less than 200nm; Described surfactant is non-ionic surface active agent, includes but not limited to one or more the mixture in polyglycereol-2-oleate, Span60, sorbitan laurate, dimethicone copolyol, 16 octadecyl glucose esters, polysorbate, the sorbitan fatty acid ester; Described emollient is the composition with skin care effect, includes but not limited to one or more the mixture in lecithin, hydrolecithin, shea butter, carbonic acid dibutyl ester, Jojoba oil, dimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride, isooctyl acid hexadecanol ester, natural squalane, the octyl methoxycinnamate; Described antiseptic is to have the composition that postpones the corrupt effect that growth of microorganism or chemical change cause, includes, but are not limited to one or more mixture in methyl hydroxybenzoate, propylparaben, DMDM Hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, phenoxyethanol, the sodium methyl phydroxybenzoate salt; This astringent can remedy the effectively deficiency of skin moistening of common astringent, can realize again the rapidly shortcoming of moisturizing of common milky lotion, emollient cream, and the characteristics such as it is simple to have preparation technology, and skinfeel is salubrious, can be user and simplifies the skin protection step.
Summary of the invention
The invention provides a kind of astringent with anti-ageing wrinkle removal and moisturizing moisturizing effect, added natural plant active component in this astringent prescription, can reach the cosmetic result of removing free radical, anti-ageing wrinkle removal, and adding lecithin and Colla Corii Asini, skin is carried out deep moisturizing, and nutrition skin, looks improving and the skin nourishing, slow down aging utilize the Synergistic of each component, obtain natural, nutrition, safety, have the function astringent of multi-efficiency.
The present invention also provides a kind of preparation method with astringent of anti-ageing wrinkle removal and moisturizing moisturizing effect, is easy to operate and control, and is suitable for suitability for industrialized production.
A kind of astringent with anti-ageing wrinkle removal and moisturizing moisturizing effect is comprised of pure phase, water and additive, and wherein alcohol phase and water are comprised of the component of following mass percent:
The alcohol phase:
Jojoba oil 3% ~ 5%
Silicone oil 3% ~ 6%
Ovum Gallus domesticus Flavus lecithin 2% ~ 3%;
And, water:
Figure BDA00002427597500031
Wherein, the mass percent summation of alcohol phase and each component of aqueous phase is 100%.
The optional field additive commonly used that applies some make up of described additive, such as antiseptic and essence, its consumption is an amount of, can adopt cosmetic field antiseptic and essence commonly used, can directly adopt the commercially available prod.
Described preparation method with astringent of anti-ageing wrinkle removal and moisturizing moisturizing effect comprises step:
(1) with Jojoba oil, silicone oil and Ovum Gallus domesticus Flavus lecithin mix homogeneously, makes pure phase;
With hyaluronic acid, vitamin A, citric acid, Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract, Folium Bambosae extract, Ganoderma extract, Colla Corii Asini and water mix homogeneously, make water;
(2) in the situation that vacuum is added to aqueous phase with alcohol, through emulsifying homogeneous, obtain emulsion;
(3) in emulsion, add additive and stirring, make astringent.
In the step (1), for the ease of respectively with each the component mix homogeneously in biphase and do not destroy the performance of each component, all preferably 60 ℃ ~ 85 ℃ mixing, further preferably 75 ℃ of mixing; Namely preferably with Jojoba oil, silicone oil and Ovum Gallus domesticus Flavus lecithin at 60 ℃ ~ 85 ℃ mix homogeneously, make pure phase, preferably with hyaluronic acid, vitamin A, citric acid, Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract, Folium Bambosae extract, Ganoderma extract, Colla Corii Asini and water at 60 ℃ ~ 85 ℃ mix homogeneously, make water.
In the step (2), in order to obtain better uniform emulsion, preferably in the situation that in the emulsifying container that vacuum stirs the water suction, take out again mutually homogenizing 8 minutes ~ 15 minutes to the emulsifying container that stirs of alcohol, constant temperature kept vacuum slowly to stir at least in 30 minutes again, obtained emulsion.The speed of described slow stirring can remain on 10 rev/mins ~ 50 rev/mins.The temperature of described constant temperature is consistent with the temperature of mixing in the step (1).
As adopt the method for heating mix homogeneously, and in the step (3), add additive after preferably emulsion being cooled to 35 ℃ ~ 45 ℃ and stir, make astringent after leaving standstill cooling.
The preparation method of described Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract comprises: the Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre is pulverized, and heating and refluxing extraction in ethanol water is filtered, and filtrate is concentrated, and vacuum drying obtains Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract.Preferably: the grams of described Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre is 1:8 ~ 9 with the ratio of the milliliter number of ethanol water, and the mass percentage concentration of ethanol water is 75% ~ 85%, and the time of heating and refluxing extraction is at least 3 hours.Be prepared (Ye Jun such as the preparation method that can adopt the total flavones that the people such as Ye Jun put down in writing in " total flavone extracting process and assay in the Semen Castaneae involucre " literary composition, Sun Bohang, Huang Jian etc. total flavone extracting process and assay in the Semen Castaneae involucre. modern Chinese medicine, 2010,30 (6): 102-104).
Described Folium Bambosae extract and Ganoderma extract can adopt existing product also can adopt existing preparation method preparation, in order further to keep the active substance that is applicable to astringent in Folium Bambusae, the Ganoderma, preferably:
The preparation method of described Folium Bambosae extract comprises step: Folium Bambusae is pulverized, with being added to the water behind the defat with petroleum ether, through immersion, microwave extraction and supersound extract, filtered, filtrate obtains Folium Bambosae extract through decolouring, concentrated and vacuum drying.
The preparation method of described Ganoderma extract comprises step: Ganoderma is pulverized, with being added to the water behind the defat with petroleum ether, through immersion, microwave extraction and supersound extract, filter, filtrate obtains respectively Ganoderma extract through decolouring, concentrated and vacuum drying.
In the preparation method of described Folium Bambosae extract and Ganoderma extract, immersion is for the moistening material, and microwave extraction and supersound extract can be repeatedly, to improve better the utilization rate of raw material Folium Bambusae and Ganoderma.
Through optimizing, further preferred:
The grams of described Folium Bambusae or Ganoderma is 1:8 ~ 12 with the ratio of the milliliter number of water, is preferably 1:10.
The condition of described microwave extraction is: 400W ~ 500W microwave extraction 5min ~ 10min; Be preferably 450W microwave extraction 5min.
Described microwave extraction is preferably the interval and extracts, comprise: 400W ~ 500W microwave extraction 1min ~ 2min, stop, again at 400W ~ 500W microwave extraction 1min ~ 2min, so extract until the total time of microwave extraction is 5min ~ 10min the recurrence interval behind the 1min ~ 2min of interval.
The condition of described supersound extract is: 60W ~ 80W supersound extract is 40min at least, is preferably 70W supersound extract 40min.
Among the present invention, the component Jojoba oil has the moisturizing effect of good oxidation stability, brilliance, does not stimulate skin, can not cause acne, energy rapid osmotic, the sensation of moistening for the dry and comfortable non-greasy of skin, silkiness.
Among the present invention, component silicone oil mainly plays the skinfeel of improving after using, and allows skin have silkiness smooth, reduces the greasy feeling of oils and fats.
Among the present invention, the component hyaluronic acid is a kind of desirable nature moisturizing factor, can reach the effects such as humidification moisturizing, skin care, defying age and crease-resistant antiinflammatory.Hyaluronic acid can also improve the skin physiology condition, for dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthetic provides superior external environment condition, strengthens nutrition supply, and the effect of skin-protecting face nursing is arranged.
Among the present invention, the component vitamin A is powerful antioxidant, can reduce the oxidation of radical pair human body, keeps the moist and plentiful of skin, can make remaining in the skin of moisture longer time.Vitamin A has well anti-cornified effect, can perfect the cuticular tissue of skin, the division of regulation of skin cell and growth, and wearing out of delaying skin strengthens elasticity and the transparency of skin.The material of pore internal organs can be effectively removed in A acid in the vitamin A, also plays simultaneously the effect of convergence pore, can effective wrinkle resistant wrinkle removing, and can also be antibiotic.
Among the present invention, the component citric acid belongs to a kind of of fruit acid, and Main Function is to accelerate cutin to upgrade, the renewal of cutin help skin in melanicly peel off, the receipts of pore are thin, the dissolving of blackhead, dispel oils and fats dirt etc., make skin soft, comfortable, the colour of skin is fair and clear, pure and fresh.
Raw material used among the present invention all adopts the commercially available prod.
Compare with existing cosmetics on the market, the present invention has following advantage:
1. many kinds of natural plant active components.
(1) Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract, Main Function: antioxidation, whitening and speckle dispelling, convergence, moisturizing, antibiotic, antiinflammatory.
The main component of Semen Castanopsis chinensis (Castanea henryi (Skam) Rehd.et Wils.) involucre: the Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre contains the flavone compounds such as a large amount of kaempferols, glucosides, Quercetin, ellagic acid, gallic acid, maloic acid, protocatechuic acid, emodin.
Vegetable flavonoid is a kind of very potential skin-protecting factor, at anti-skin peroxidating and slow down aging, whitening, radioprotective, sun-proof, antiinflammatory, antiallergic, the fermentation such as antibacterial, all has better effects.The plant flavonoids molecule has conjugacy, Uv and visible light is all shown strong absorption, can alleviate ultraviolet to the damage of skin, in addition, the phenolic hydroxyl group in the flavonoids structure has reproducibility, and a plurality of phenolic hydroxyl groups in its molecule can be used as the H donor, these architectural characteristics are all given plant flavonoids and are had the free radical of removing in the skin, avoid the damage of radical pair cell etc., have antioxidation, remove the effect of free radical.Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract has very strong scavenging action to free radical, when Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract concentrations is 0.2mg/mL, the clearance rate of hydroxyl radical free radical is reached the highest, is 83.0%; When Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract concentrations was 0.6mg/mL, it was to O 2-clearance rate is 82.1% to the maximum, and the clearance rate (85.7%) a little less than with the Vc of concentration has stronger lipoid peroxidization resistant simultaneously.
Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract can be by the activity of chelated metal ions with restraint of tyrosinase, thereby reduce melanic generation, reaches the whitening and speckle dispelling effect.Ellagic acid is a kind of molecule of Polyphenols, but restraint of tyrosinase is active, and blocking-up melanin generates, and has the effect of whitening and light speckle.Therefore flavone compound and protein make people's skin produce convergence with hydrophobic bond and hydrogen bond mode generation compound reaction.This character makes the cosmetics that contain Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract to skin good adhesive ability be arranged under the waterproof condition, and thick pore is shunk, and makes lax skin contraction, tightens, thereby make skin show fine and smooth outward appearance.In addition, the glucosides of flavone compound has a plurality of hydroxyls owing to containing glucosyl group, can be combined with the hydrogen bond form with hydrone, prevents the loss of moisture in the keratodermatitis, plays the effect of moisturizing.In addition, the compositions such as kaempferol, gallic acid, maloic acid, protocatechuic acid, emodin also can both play effect antibiotic, antiinflammatory.
(2) Folium Bambusae (Bamboo Leaves, Bl) extract, Main Function: antioxidation, anti-inflammation supplements the nutrients and trace element, promotes epidermal growth, repairs skin injury; Exfoliation, skin care, wrinkle removal, speckle removing whitening.
The main component of Folium Bambusae: contain a large amount of flavone, phenolic acid, anthraquinone analog compound, bioactive polysaccharide, Coumarins lactone, extraordinary aminoacid, fragrance ingredient and manganese, zinc, selenium and other trace elements in the Folium Bambusae.Folium Bambosae flavone (flavonoids) is antioxidation in the Folium Bambosae extract, the main active of removing free radical, effect with similar superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathion peroxidase (GSH-Px), can remove reactive oxygen free radical in the human body, prevent that the biomembrane lipid is by superoxide radical and hydroxyl radical free radical oxidation, promote the metabolism of skin, improve the elasticity of skin, the generation of delaying skin wrinkle, reduce the calmness of pigment, moist skin reaches significant whitening effect.The effect of similar vitamin E is also arranged, and is a kind of good Natural antioxidant and the new resources of free radical scavenger.Polysaccharides in Bamboo Leaves is the extremely abundant nutrient substance of a kind of content in the Folium Bambusae, and human body is had unique health-care effect, also has obvious antioxidation.
Folium Bambusae is one of abundant protein resource of pure natural, research is found to have 16 seed amino acids in the Folium Bambusae ammonia, wherein threonine, valine, methionine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, this 7 seed amino acid of lysine are essential amino acid, also detected simultaneously the extraordinary aminoacid of suitable content: δ-oxylysine (δ-OH-Lys), mainly the form with free monomer and little peptide exists, its biological antioxidant activity is higher than lysine far away, has important physiological significance.Contain more than 20 kind of mineral element in the Folium Bambusae, wherein be rich in the macroelement such as Fe, Ca, Si of needed by human and Zn, Mn, Cu, Mo, the trace element such as V, Ni.Contained mineral element in the Folium Bambosae extract can activating human body cells, has certain physiology and pharmacological action.For example, contain Ge element in the Folium Bambusae, have by the elimination activity oxygen-derived free radicals and suppress lipid peroxidation and reach antiinflammatory, anticancer and anti-aging function; Zinc and silicon both can strengthen the immunocompetence of organism, also can with the germanium synergism, thereby strengthen the pharmacologically active of Folium Bambusae.
Numerous active component Synergistic in the Folium Bambosae extract, and make Folium Bambosae extract have magical skin-softening beauty effect: make skin obviously fresh and tender, transparent feel is arranged; Have remarkable defying age oxidation resistance, recover the young attitude of skin; Has surprising reducing power, the mottle that at utmost goes down, skin whitening; Transform the xerosis cutis situation; Tighten up thick pore, promote skin smooth fine and smooth; Sterilization, antiinflammatory, the unnecessary oils and fats of removal, anti-acne.
(3) Ganoderma (Ganoderma Lucidum) extract, Main Function: immunomodulating, antioxidation, slow down aging.
The bioactive ingredients of Ganoderma is very abundant, and main component can be divided into the 10 large classes such as polysaccharide, ucleosides, furans, alkaloids, aminoacid protein class, triterpenes, oils, sterols, organic germanium, mineral element.
The contained polysaccharide of Ganoderma, polypeptide etc. have obvious function of delaying senility.The effect of the numerous active component that keeps in the Ganoderma extract is mainly based on following mechanism:
1. promote and adjust immunologic function.Ganoderan mainly is by the immunologic function that is used for regulating body to immunocytes such as lymphocyte, macrophage, reticuloendothelial systems, and it strengthens one of immunne response mechanism, exactly by cytokine profiles being induced or urge to induce effect.As biological response modifier, it not only can activate the immunocytes such as T, bone-marrow-derived lymphocyte, macrophage, natural killer cell (NK), can also complement activation, promote the generation of cytokine, and performance is to the regulating action of body comprehensively.This promotion and adjustment be slow down aging obviously.
2. regulate metabolic balance, promote the synthetic of nucleic acid and protein, can also promote liver and medullary cell synthetic protein and RNA, promotion medullary cell synthetic DNA, and can increase the division algebraically of cell, the immunocompetence of enhancing body, improve the vitality of body, therefore can be effectively disease-resistant anti-aging.
3. anti-radical action.(such as superoxide dismutase, reduction SOD) is a reason of human senility for the antioxidant of the interior originality defence radical damage that organism produces or antioxidant enzyme material.Ganoderan, organic acid etc. can enhance metabolism, and make the active obviously raising of SOD; Abundant trace element; can both play a role to improving the SOD activity such as copper, zinc, ferrum, manganese and vitamin etc.; thereby can suppress the generation of superoxide radical and the lipid peroxidation of cell membrane; and the effect of removing superoxide radical arranged; thereby the Cell protection film is avoided damage and enzyme, protein, nucleic acid etc. and is avoided oxidative deformation; keep active, reach the effect that has delayed cell ageing.
2 " the 3rd nutrients "---lecithin (lecithin, phospholipid acid choline)
Ovum Gallus domesticus Flavus lecithin is made of glycerol, fatty acid, phosphoric acid and choline.Main effect: natural surfactant, nursing skin, deep moisturizing, slow down aging.
The first, lecithin is amphiphilic.Lecithin has good hydrophilic and lipophile, is natural surfactant, have emulsifying, moistening, dispersion, solubilising, stick together, with the function such as protein bound, can make foam stabilization, good dispersion promotes the effective ingredient infiltration.
The second, nursing skin.Lecithin can be kept and the activated cell vigor, promotes skin histology growth and Skin Cell regeneration.Can be used as linoleic source, the effect of performance keratin-lytic agent, the updating form chrotoplast comes off the melanin granule of epiderm skin, tender pale skin.In the cell turnover process, participate in skin protection and skin lesion reparation, and in time provide cell regeneration needed framework ingredient.Lecithin is as the excellent carrier of cosmetic activity composition, have slow-releasing, transdermal characteristic, transdermal characteristic, targeting, potentiation multiple characteristic, with the contact skin process in, can improve the component of membrane phospholipid, increase flowability and the enzymatic activity of Lecithin Bilayer Membranes, the effect of the active component on the better performance cell membrane makes skin colour bright and new, healthy.Simultaneously, lecithin also is a kind of natural antidote, and too much toxin in its energy decomposer is so that speckle on the face and comedo can slowly disappear.
Three, deep moisturizing.Lecithin is the basis of skin nature moisturizing factor (NMF), has moisture retention and also easily infiltrates through in the skin, pins moisture, prevents that skin dehydration is dry.It is its additional lipid that lecithin can penetrate into horny layer, to repair or to protect the integrity of its structure.The hydrophilic of lecithin can increase the quantity of hemoglobin, can provide sufficient moisture for skin, makes skin become smooth soft and moist.
Four, slow down aging.Can produce free radical in many substance metabolism processes in the body, with advancing age, the ability that body is removed free radical descends gradually, excessive free radical accumulation will cause body injury in vivo, too much free radical and unsaturated fatty acid react, generated lipid peroxide (MDA), MDA is a kind of very active cross-linking agent, it can be cross-linked into rapidly fluorochrome with PE, then with the peptide class, protein, contaminated with lipid forms flaggy shape lipofuscin, lipofuscin can crush organelle make it the distortion, damage neuronic metabolism propagation function, thus cause and accelerates the aging.And lecithin is owing to having good anti-oxidation function, can repair impaired biomembrane, remove free radical, thus can to the formation that suppresses the horn cell lipofuscin and keep the keratodermatitis moisture stable obvious effect arranged, play the effect of slow down aging.In addition, lecithin also has good Anti-oxidant function.
Lecithin both can improve wetness sensation, smear sense, nutritive validity and adhesion effect, can improve again the sense of touch of skin, reduced greasy, improved water-retaining property, produced the effect of nursing skin, deep moisturizing and slow down aging.
3 " nourishing is large precious "---Colla Corii Asini (Colla Corii Asini).
Main component: be rich in collagen protein, 18 seed amino acids such as lysine, histidine, arginine, threonine, serine, glutamic acid, proline, glycine, alanine, valine, methionine, leucine, isoleucine, propylhomoserin, phenylalanine and Na, Mg, Cu, Al, Mn, Cr, 27 kinds of trace element such as Pb, Mo.
Main Function: nutrition skin, slow down aging, nourishing YIN and supplementing blood, looks improving and the skin nourishing.
Colla Corii Asini be with the skin of equine species donkey through decoct, the concentrated solid gum of making, be rich in collagen protein, aminoacid and trace element, have abundant comprehensive nutrient and be worth, Colla Corii Asini and Radix Ginseng, Cornu Cervi Pantotrichum also claim " nourishing three large treasured ".Collagen protein (collagen) is the main protein that consists of skin, accounts for more than 70% of protein content in the skin cell, is that the maintenance skin elasticity is moist, moist indispensable composition.The structural similarity of collagen and hydrolysate thereof and application on human skin collagen, the compatibility is good, exist the interactions such as ionic bond, hydrogen bond, can be spread to the deep layer of skin, Person's skin there is good Nutrition, and has a large amount of carboxyls and hydroxyl outside the collagen molecules, have simultaneously a large amount of nature moisturizing factor such as glycine, can improve histiocytic water storage capacity, make skin moisture-keeping.Can replenish the required nutrition of each layer of skin, make collagen increased activity in the skin, skin care be arranged, the effects such as slow down aging, beauty treatment, wrinkle-chasing, hair care.And Colla Corii Asini is to form take animal skins as feed purification, is rich in collagen protein and aminoacid, the natural nutriment of starting with from the skin aging root just.
Meanwhile, the Colla Corii Asini tool is enriched blood and is risen the effect of blood, can make the skin inner blood full, and skin is ruddy, represents youth brilliance, reaches treating both the principal and secondary aspects of a disease, beauty from inside to outside.Moreover the activity of enzyme needs the activation of trace element.Because 70% above enzyme is can bring into play biological effect when having the essential trace element kinase, and these enzymes are invariably relevant with zinc, ferrum, manganese, copper, iodine, methyl seleninic acid, and essential trace element just is the active center of a lot of enzymes.Contain 27 kinds of trace element such as zinc, ferrum, copper, manganese in the Colla Corii Asini, thereby Colla Corii Asini has positive role aspect defying age.
Technique of the present invention is simple, cost is lower, steady quality, in the selection of the functional raw material of astringent, select aboundresources and the natural material of the rare application of astringent product now, the active component of Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre, Folium Bambusae, Ganoderma three kind of plant, also added simultaneously the astringent product and do not reported Ovum Gallus domesticus Flavus lecithin and the Colla Corii Asini with rich functionality nutrient raw material, the synergism by each component obtains anti-ageing wrinkle removal and the significant astringent of moisturizing moisturizing effect.Astringent of the present invention can come in the complete natural expansion of skin surface, can promptly be absorbed by the skin, and follow soft smooth as a kind of velvet and absolutely not greasy sensation, effectively utilize active substance and nutrient in the raw material, plurality of active ingredients is organically combined, Synergistic, directly act on the skin corium that causes skin aging, replenish rapidly required various nutrition and the moisture of skin, increase skin cell vitality, promote the reepithelialization function, the moisturizing profit that realizes skin is white, the reduce wrinkle speckle dispelling, slow down aging, the elasticity of reproducing skin is moist, moist healthy natural jade-like stone is adopted.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is the Vc standard curve.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with the part specific embodiment content of the present invention is further illustrated, but content of the present invention is not limited in the following examples.
The preparation method of Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract comprises: the Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre is pulverized, added mass percentage concentration and be heating and refluxing extraction 3h in 75% the ethanol water, filter, filtrate is concentrated, and vacuum drying namely obtains Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract.The grams of Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre is 1:8 with the ratio of the milliliter number of ethanol water.
The preparation method of Ganoderma extract: Ganoderma is pulverized, behind defat with petroleum ether, dry, in sample quality (gram): the ratio of extracting solvent distilled water volume (milliliter)=1:10, add in the distilled water, leave standstill 30min with the moistening material, microwave 450W radiation 1min, radiation 1min again behind the 1min of interval, so the interval radiation straight reaches 5min to microwave extraction total time, 70W supersound extract 40min, 75 ℃ of extraction temperatures, filter, get filtrate and filtering residue.Filtering residue added in the distilled water repeat to extract 1 time by similarity condition.Merging filtrate adds the 3g active carbon, stirs 15min with decolouring, filters.Filtrate to paste, is made dry powder with 0 ℃ of cryogenic vacuum lyophilization of freeze dryer with the Rotary Evaporators vacuum concentration, namely obtains Ganoderma extract.
The preparation method of Folium Bambosae extract: Folium Bambusae is pulverized, behind defat with petroleum ether, dried, in sample quality (gram): the ratio of extracting solvent distilled water volume (milliliter)=1:10, add in the distilled water, leave standstill 30min with the moistening material, microwave 450W radiation 1min, radiation 1min again behind the 1min of interval, so the interval radiation straight reaches 5min to microwave extraction total time, 70W supersound extract 40min, 75 ℃ of extraction temperatures, filter, get filtrate and filtering residue.Filtering residue added in the distilled water repeat to extract 1 time by similarity condition.Merging filtrate adds the 3g active carbon, stirs 15min with decolouring, filters.Filtrate to paste, is made dry powder with 0 ℃ of cryogenic vacuum lyophilization of freeze dryer with the Rotary Evaporators vacuum concentration, namely obtains Folium Bambosae extract.
Embodiment 1:
Have astringent anti-ageing, the wrinkle removal effect and be comprised of pure phase, water and additive, additive is an amount of rose essence and an amount of G-2 antiseptic (diazonium alkyl imidazole urea), and wherein alcohol phase and water are comprised of the component of following mass percent:
The alcohol phase:
Jojoba oil 3%
Silicone oil 6%
Ovum Gallus domesticus Flavus lecithin 3%
Water:
Figure BDA00002427597500111
Figure BDA00002427597500121
Wherein, the mass percent summation of alcohol phase and each component of aqueous phase is 100%.
Operating procedure:
(1) Jojoba oil, silicone oil and Ovum Gallus domesticus Flavus lecithin are heated to 75 ℃, mix, make pure phase;
Hyaluronic acid, vitamin A, citric acid, Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract, Folium Bambosae extract, Ganoderma extract, Colla Corii Asini and deionized water are heated to 75 ℃, mix, make water;
(2) in the situation that vacuum in the emulsifying pot of the water suction stirring of having heated, was taken out pure phase homogenizing 8 minutes again, keep vacuum slowly to stir (30 rev/mins) in 30 minutes at 75 ℃ of constant temperature even, obtain emulsion;
(3) add an amount of rose essence and an amount of G-2 antiseptic (diazonium alkyl imidazole urea) after emulsion is cooled to 40 ℃ and stir, leave standstill and be cooled to room temperature, make astringent.
Embodiment 2:
Have astringent anti-ageing, the wrinkle removal effect and be comprised of pure phase, water and additive, additive is an amount of rose essence and an amount of G-2 antiseptic (diazonium alkyl imidazole urea), and wherein alcohol phase and water are comprised of the component of following mass percent:
The alcohol phase:
Jojoba oil 5%
Silicone oil 4%
Ovum Gallus domesticus Flavus lecithin 2%
Water:
Figure BDA00002427597500122
Figure BDA00002427597500131
Wherein, the mass percent summation of alcohol phase and each component of aqueous phase is 100%.
Operating procedure is with embodiment 1.
Embodiment 3:
Have astringent anti-ageing, the wrinkle removal effect and be comprised of pure phase, water and additive, additive is an amount of rose essence and an amount of G-2 antiseptic (diazonium alkyl imidazole urea), and wherein alcohol phase and water are comprised of the component of following mass percent:
The alcohol phase:
Jojoba oil 4%
Silicone oil 3%
Ovum Gallus domesticus Flavus lecithin 3%
Water:
Wherein, the mass percent summation of alcohol phase and each component of aqueous phase is 100%.
Operating procedure is with embodiment 1.
Embodiment 4:
Have astringent anti-ageing, the wrinkle removal effect and be comprised of pure phase, water and additive, additive is an amount of rose essence and an amount of G-2 antiseptic (diazonium alkyl imidazole urea), and wherein alcohol phase and water are comprised of the component of following mass percent:
The alcohol phase:
Jojoba oil 3%
Silicone oil 4%
Ovum Gallus domesticus Flavus lecithin 2.5%
Water:
Wherein, the mass percent summation of alcohol phase and each component of aqueous phase is 100%.
Operating procedure is with embodiment 1.
Embodiment 5:
Have astringent anti-ageing, the wrinkle removal effect and be comprised of pure phase, water and additive, additive is an amount of rose essence and an amount of G-2 antiseptic (diazonium alkyl imidazole urea), and wherein alcohol phase and water are comprised of the component of following mass percent:
The alcohol phase:
Jojoba oil 5%
Silicone oil 5%
Ovum Gallus domesticus Flavus lecithin 2%
Water:
Figure BDA00002427597500142
Figure BDA00002427597500151
Wherein, the mass percent summation of alcohol phase and each component of aqueous phase is 100%.
Operating procedure is with embodiment 1.
Comparative Examples 1
Except with the Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract water consumption substitution among the embodiment 1, all the other operate with embodiment 1, make astringent.
Comparative Examples 2
Except with the Folium Bambosae extract water consumption substitution among the embodiment 1, all the other operate with embodiment 1, make astringent.
Comparative Examples 3
Except with the Ganoderma extract water consumption substitution among the embodiment 1, all the other operate with embodiment 1, make astringent.
Comparative Examples 4
Except with the Colla Corii Asini water consumption substitution among the embodiment 1, all the other operate with embodiment 1, make astringent.
Comparative Examples 5
Except with the Ovum Gallus domesticus Flavus lecithin water consumption substitution among the embodiment 1, all the other operate with embodiment 1, make astringent.
One, the skin skin quality is measured
The astringent that adopts respectively the embodiment of the invention 1 ~ 5 and Comparative Examples 1 ~ 5 preparation is that example is carried out skin skin quality mensuration.At first, select women's testee of 30 skin healths, the astringent that left half face of testee is smeared the present invention's preparation is experimental group, and right half face is not smeared any material and is blank group.Experiment is 8 weeks by a definite date, respectively at the 4th the week and the 8th week carried out the detection analysis of testee skin by every instrument, the assessment astringent is for the effect of improving of skin moisture content, skin elasticity, microgroove, skin coarseness, sebum secretion amount and thick pore number, and the meansigma methods of the 1st week, the 4th week and time test the 8th Wednesday sees Table 1.
Table 1 skin skin quality is improved effect
Annotate: for increasing, "-" is for reducing "+".
Table 1 result shows, astringent of the present invention has minimizing in various degree to microgroove, roughness, sebum secretion amount, the thick pore number average of skin, and to the effect that skin moisture content and skin elasticity are significantly increased, show that product of the present invention has the effect of improving the skin skin quality.
The successful that improves the skin skin quality of the astringent of Comparative Examples 1 ~ 5 preparation is lower than product of the present invention, has good synergistic function between the component of the composite product of demonstration the present invention.
Two, antiradical activities is measured
The astringent that adopts the embodiment of the invention 1 ~ 5 and Comparative Examples 1 ~ 5 preparation is that example is carried out anti-DPPH free radical ability mensuration.At first, accurately take by weighing 20mg DPPH (1,1-dimethyl benzyl phenylhydrazine, C 18H 12N 5O 6), surely being dissolved in the 250mL volumetric flask with dehydrated alcohol, DPPH concentration is 2 * 10 -4Mol/L.A peek test tube numbering is added reagent with reference to table 2.Fully mixing after the room temperature dark leaves standstill 30min, is measured absorbance under the 517nm wavelength.Same mensuration repeats 3 times.
DPPH free radical scavenging activity (%)=[(1-A Sample-A Blank)/A Contrast] * 100%
A Sample: the absorbance of sample under the 517nm wavelength.
A Blank: blank absorbance under the 517nm wavelength.
A Contrast: to impinging upon the absorbance under the 517nm wavelength.
Table 2 reagent addition (mL)
Group DPPH Sample Dehydrated alcohol
Embodiment 1 solution 2.0 2.0 0
Embodiment 2 solution 2.0 2.0 0
Embodiment 3 solution 2.0 2.0 0
Embodiment 4 solution 2.0 2.0 0
Embodiment 5 solution 2.0 2.0 0
Comparative Examples 1 solution 2.0 2.0 0
Comparative Examples 2 solution 2.0 2.0 0
Comparative Examples 3 solution 2.0 2.0 0
Comparative Examples 4 solution 2.0 2.0 0
Comparative Examples 5 solution 2.0 2.0 0
Blank 0 2.0 2.0
Contrast 2.0 0 2.0
Vitamin C (Vc) standard curve determination: Vc is dissolved in deionized water preparation 1mg/mL Vc solution, with reference to table 3 preparing standard solution, and measure the DPPH free radical scavenging activity of each concentration Vc standard solution by above-mentioned sample determination method, take the DPPH free radical scavenging activity as vertical coordinate (y), Vc concentration is abscissa (x) production standard curve, obtains linear relation: y=135.67x+2.9167.
The configuration of table 3Vc standard solution
Ultimate density (mg/mL) 0.05 0.1 0.2 0.25 0.40 0.50
1g/mL Vc solution (mL) 0.1 0.2 0.4 0.5 0.8 1.0
Deionized water (mL) 1.9 1.8 1.6 1.5 1.2 1.0
The active detection found: the present invention prepares astringent and has good antiradical activities, and the DPPH free radical is had good removing effect, sees Table 4.
The removing effect of table 4 pair DPPH free radical
Group The clearance rate of DPPH (%) Equivalent Vc concentration (mg/mL)
Embodiment 1 90.34 0.644
Embodiment 2 89.83 0.641
Embodiment 3 96.88 0.693
Embodiment 4 94.43 0.675
Embodiment 5 90.56 0.646
Comparative Examples 1 80.01 0.568
Comparative Examples 2 82.15 0.584
Comparative Examples 3 82.22 0.585
Comparative Examples 4 82.30 0.585
Comparative Examples 5 82.25 0.585
The antiradical activities of the astringent of Comparative Examples 1 ~ 5 preparation is starkly lower than product of the present invention, has good synergistic function between the component of the composite product of demonstration the present invention.
Three, the defying age ability is measured
Adopting respectively the astringent of the embodiment of the invention 1 ~ 5 and Comparative Examples 1 ~ 5 preparation is example, carries out the defying age ability take the SOD vigor as index and measures.
Laboratory animal grouping and administration:
20 of Kunming kind cleaning level mices, male and female half and half, body weight (20 ± 2) g is provided by Zhejiang University's Experimental Animal Center, is divided at random 2 groups (matched group, sample sets), 10 every group.From first day 8:00 in morning, every day, the astringent to 5 preparations of the sample sets gavage embodiment of the invention carried out Experiment intervention, weighed 1 time every 1 day mice, and gavage amount (10g/kg) is adjusted accordingly according to body weight.Matched group is the normal saline of gavage equivalent also.Sacrificed by decapitation after continuous 1 month is got brain and is washed with cold saline, strips cerebral cortex for subsequent use.
Index determining:
Get cerebral cortex and make the 10%(mass percent) homogenate, each index determining is all undertaken by SOD testing cassete explanation.
Testing result
SOD vigor testing result is found (seeing Table 5): the astringent of the present invention's preparation can significantly improve the SOD vigor of mouse brain cortex, active by the SOD that improves cortex, strengthened the ability of body removing free radical, alleviate the macromolecular attack of radical pair biomembrane, thereby weaken too much radical pair biomembrane infringement, guaranteed the complete of membrane structure and function, delayed apoptotic generation, shown that the astringent of the present invention's preparation has good anti-aging effects.
SOD vigor in table 5 cortex
Group SOD vigor (U/mL)
Matched group 173.21±38.21
Embodiment 1 241.64±22.43
Embodiment 2 190.84±14.31
Embodiment 3 208.85±11.38
Embodiment 4 220.73±15.08
Embodiment 5 227.77±24.67
Comparative Examples 1 183.28±10.05
Comparative Examples 2 185.11±10.23
Comparative Examples 3 185.15±10.32
Comparative Examples 4 185.27±11.00
Comparative Examples 5 185.36±10.88
Although the astringent of Comparative Examples 1 ~ 5 preparation also has certain anti-aging effects and is starkly lower than product of the present invention, has good synergistic function between the component of the composite product of demonstration the present invention.
Among the present invention, the combination in any of each component in the amount ranges that the present invention limits all can the astringent that obtains having anti-ageing wrinkle removal and moisturizing moisturizing effect, the speed of parameter such as temperature, time, stirring does not all have strict restriction in the preparation process, and the speed of temperature, time, stirring is all so that respectively organize mix homogeneously and do not destroy each composition activity and be advisable.The appropriate variation of the preparation technology parameter of raw material Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract, Folium Bambosae extract and Ganoderma extract can not affect the existence of active component in the final extract, and then can be from not affecting in essence the effect of astringent yet, therefore, the extract of the combination in any of adopting process parameter appropriate variation preparation all is applicable to the present invention.Do not repeat them here.

Claims (10)

1. the astringent with anti-ageing wrinkle removal and moisturizing moisturizing effect is characterized in that, is comprised of pure phase, water and additive, and wherein alcohol phase and water are comprised of the component of following mass percent:
The alcohol phase:
Jojoba oil 3% ~ 5%
Silicone oil 3% ~ 6%
Ovum Gallus domesticus Flavus lecithin 2% ~ 3%;
And, water:
Figure FDA00002427597400011
2. the astringent with anti-ageing wrinkle removal and moisturizing moisturizing effect according to claim 1, it is characterized in that, the preparation method of described Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract, comprise: the Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre is pulverized, heating and refluxing extraction in ethanol water is filtered, and filtrate is concentrated, vacuum drying obtains Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract;
The preparation method of described Folium Bambosae extract or Ganoderma extract comprises step: Folium Bambusae or Ganoderma are pulverized, with being added to the water behind the defat with petroleum ether, through immersion, microwave extraction and supersound extract, filter, filtrate obtains respectively Folium Bambosae extract or Ganoderma extract through decolouring, concentrated and vacuum drying.
3. the astringent with anti-ageing wrinkle removal and moisturizing moisturizing effect according to claim 2, it is characterized in that, the grams of described Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre is 1:8 ~ 9 with the ratio of the milliliter number of ethanol water, the mass percentage concentration of ethanol water is 75% ~ 85%, and the time of heating and refluxing extraction is at least 3 hours.
4. the astringent with anti-ageing wrinkle removal and moisturizing moisturizing effect according to claim 2 is characterized in that, the grams of described Folium Bambusae or Ganoderma is 1:8 ~ 12 with the ratio of the milliliter number of water.
5. the astringent with anti-ageing wrinkle removal and moisturizing moisturizing effect according to claim 2 is characterized in that, the condition of described microwave extraction is: 400W ~ 500W microwave extraction 5min ~ 10min; The condition of described supersound extract is: 60W ~ 80W supersound extract is 40min at least.
6. the astringent with anti-ageing wrinkle removal and moisturizing moisturizing effect according to claim 5, it is characterized in that, described microwave extraction is that extract at the interval, comprise: 400W ~ 500W microwave extraction 1min ~ 2min, stop, again at 400W ~ 500W microwave extraction 1min ~ 2min, so extract until the total time of microwave extraction is 5min ~ 10min the recurrence interval behind the 1min ~ 2min of interval.
7. each described preparation method with astringent of anti-ageing wrinkle removal and moisturizing moisturizing effect according to claim 1 ~ 6 comprises step:
(1) with Jojoba oil, silicone oil and Ovum Gallus domesticus Flavus lecithin mix homogeneously, makes pure phase;
With hyaluronic acid, vitamin A, citric acid, Semen Castanopsis chinensis involucre extract, Folium Bambosae extract, Ganoderma extract, Colla Corii Asini and water mix homogeneously, make water;
(2) in the situation that vacuum is added to aqueous phase with alcohol, through emulsifying homogeneous, obtain emulsion;
(3) in emulsion, add additive and stirring, make astringent.
8. preparation method according to claim 7 is characterized in that, in the step (1), 60 ℃ ~ 85 ℃ mixing.
9. preparation method according to claim 7, it is characterized in that, in the step (2), in the situation that vacuum is in the emulsifying container of water suction stirring, take out again mutually homogenizing 8 minutes ~ 15 minutes to the emulsifying container that stirs of alcohol, constant temperature kept vacuum slowly to stir at least in 30 minutes, obtained emulsion.
10. preparation method according to claim 7 is characterized in that, in the step (3), adds additive after emulsion is cooled to 35 ℃ ~ 45 ℃ and stirs, and makes astringent after leaving standstill cooling.
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