CN102102293A - Shrink-resistance machine-washable finishing method of slenderized wool - Google Patents
Shrink-resistance machine-washable finishing method of slenderized wool Download PDFInfo
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- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
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Landscapes
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a shrink-resistance machine-washable finishing method of slenderized wool, which comprises the following steps of: (1) putting fabric in an activated working liquid with the bath ratio of 1 to 20-1 to 40 and the pH value of 4.0 to 5.0, and reacting for at least 0.5 hour at the temperature of 30 to 50 DEG C; and then adding 3.0 to 5.0 percent (owf, namely on weight of solution) of reducing agent, regulating the pH value to 6.5 to 8.0, reacting for at least 0.5 hour at the temperature of 30 to 50 DEG C, and discharging the liquid; (2) washing the fabric with hot water of the temperature of 50 to 90 DEG C, and then fully washing the fabric with cold water; (3) putting the fabric in a treatment bath with 3.0 to 5.0 percent (owf, namely on weight of solution) of shape-preserving finishing agent and the bath ratio of 1 to 20-1 to 30, reacting for 15 to 30 minutes at the temperature of 30 to 50 DEG C, discharging the liquid and dehydrating; and (4) drying the treated fabric at the temperature of 60 to 80 DEG C, and completing shrink-resistance machine-washable finishing of the slenderized wool. All the indexes of the finished machine-washable tensile wool (cashmere) sweaters meet the shrink resistance requirement of the International Wool Secretariat; and the machine-washable tensile wool (cashmere) sweaters have smooth hand feel.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of refinement wool shrinkproof machine washable method for sorting.
Background technology
Along with science and technology development, new and high technology has penetrated into traditional industries, and with regard to wool industry, product is from simple thermal property of past, develops to fashion-orientation, lightening, functionalization, information-based direction.Though this series products price is more expensive, people still constantly increase the demand of frivolous natural wool goods.Yet, to produce a high frivolous wool textile and need prop up fine wool with the height more than 70, these high fine wools not only cost an arm and a leg, and it is also very limited to originate, and all comes from Australia, even and in Australia, the output of superfine wool is also very limited.Therefore, how to increase the output of superfine wool raw material, reduce cost of material as far as possible simultaneously, become the problem that solution extremely is concerned about and is pressed for to wool and wool textile industry.The stretching wool technology that attenuates, one of effective way that addresses this problem exactly.Refinement wool technology both can utilize relative thicker wool fibre to produce thinner fiber, did not influence normal spinning performance again, had the good characteristic of other natural fabric simultaneously again.In recent years, had achievement in research abroad in this respect and begin to apply, domestic research to the refinement wool fibre also launches.
The refinement wool is the fiber after common stretching wool attenuates, by common wool being utilized to wool top twisting to increase interfibrous grasping force, twisting realizes by a pair of space coiled structure, and stretching then is to arrange many row's stainless steel rollers in the middle of the axle of two pairs of reverse rotations.The wool top that moves is wrapped in circumference and is carved with on the roller of vee-cut and stretches, and the wool top that moves is embedded in wherein.The first step that stretches is the dewing heating, makes wool fibre have plasticity, after stretching, finalizes the design by high moist steam.
Change owing to structurally taken place in the refinement wool fibre, and adding is that bundle fiber stretches, and bigger variation has also taken place performance thereupon, causes that its wearability is not fine.Fibre uniformity descends, discrete length is big, has increased coming off of fiber in the washing process; The elongation at break of fiber and breaking work have by a relatively large margin and to descend, and it is about 45% that percentage elongation descends, and will cause the reduction of flexible deterioration of elongation of fiber and fiber fatigue durability, falls hair in the washing process, yielding in the dress.The crimp percent of refinement wool fibre and curling elastic recovery rate all descend, and fiber modulus descends, and deformation more easily takes place under low stress its fiber fine structure, causes damp and hot shrinkage factor big, and be yielding in hanging and wear, washing.Need a kind of finishing agent like this it is carried out the secondary typing, reduce damp and hot contraction, improve the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY in its dress and the washing process.
The at present domestic method that wool fabric is carried out shiinkproof finish mainly contains 3 big classes: (1) is chemical degradation method, is also referred to as " subtraction "; (2) be polymer deposition method (resin method), be also referred to as " addition "; (3) be supercritical ultrasonics technology.
The general chemical substance that adopts is carried out mandatory destruction to wool scale, divests scale, thereby reaches shrinkproof purpose." subtraction " mainly contains chloridizing, oxidizing process and protease decrement method etc.
Chloridizing: adopt chloride compound under suitable condition, destroy the scale on wool surface, thereby reduce the feltability of wool.This technology is fairly simple, and cost is low, but the difficult control of chlorination degree, fibre strength reduces, and feel is relatively poor, and its maximum shortcoming is that chlorinating agent can discharge the strong impulse smell in process, human respiratory is caused damage, and produce poisonous AOX, contaminated environment.Under the more and more valued situation of environmental protection and people's health, this kind technology should be forbidden.
Protease: protease acts on protein or polypeptide, and the catalysis peptide bond hydrolysis can be used for shrinkproof processing.But protein carries out treatment effect and bad to wool separately, and the special construction of the lipides that contain in scale epidermis and the cuticula, cystine, disulfide bond etc. can the macromolecular attack of impede protein enzyme.So the protease arrangement needs and chlorination, oxidation processes combine, but, heavily decrease greatly, be difficult for adopting because this kind technology is long partially.
Oxidizing process: adopt oxidizer treatment wools such as potassium permanganate, persulfate.But owing to all can produce coloring matter in potassium permanganate itself and the course of reaction, make the fabric look become serious, will not adopt.A little less than the persulfate oxidation ability, use shrinkproof result not obvious separately.
Addition is to utilize polymer deposition in wool surface, scale is wrapped up, or form " adhesion " between fiber, thereby stop the relative motion of fiber, plays shrinkage correcting action.This method can not cause damage to wool fibre, but feel is not ideal, need add softener in addition.
Ultrasonic wave shiinkproof finish technology because hyperacoustic corrasion has certain destruction to the scale of wool fibre, through the wool scale rust of ultrasonic Treatment, become light, reduces the wool fibre friction effect, thereby improves the felting property of wool fibre.But need handle with bathing with potassium permanganate, change fabric color easily, and technology be long partially, is difficult for producing greatly.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide a kind of refinement wool (suede) fabrics for shrinkage machine washable method for sorting.
Refinement wool provided by the present invention (suede) fabrics for shrinkage machine washable method for sorting comprises the steps:
1) activation stage: with refinement wool (suede) fabric with 1: 20-1: it was the activation working solution of 4.0-5.0 that 40 bath raioes place the pH value, 30 ℃ of-50 ℃ of reactions at least 0.5 hour; Add reductant 3.0-5.0% (o.w.f) then in described activation working solution, regulating the pH value is 6.5-8.0, again 30 ℃ of-50 ℃ of reactions at least 0.5 hour; Discharge opeing; Wherein, consisting of of described activation working solution: activator 3.0-5.0% (o.w.f) and shrinkproof promoter 0.5-2.0% (o.w.f);
2) wash phase: refinement wool (suede) fabric after the step 1) processing earlier with 50 ℃-90 ℃ hot wash, is fully washed with cold water again;
3) the conformal arrangement stage: with step 2) to place conformal finishing agent consumption be that 3.0-5.0% (o.w.f), bath raio are 1 to refinement wool (suede) fabric after the washing: 20-1: 30 processing was bathed, 30 ℃-50 ℃ reactions 15-40 minute; Discharge opeing, dehydration; Described processing is bathed and is the aqueous solution of conformal finishing agent;
4) baking stage: refinement wool (suede) fabric after the step 3) processing in 60 ℃ of-80 ℃ of oven dry, is finished the arrangement to the shrinkproof machine washable of refinement wool fabric.
Wherein, activator described in the step 1) specifically can be selected from following any one: clorox, protease, potassium permanganate and peroxide (as FK-232 (spinning chemical inc in Beijing)).Activator can react with the scale of wool (suede), increases the active group of fiber.
Described shrinkproof promoter is nonionic surface active agent.The adding of this promoter mainly is to increase the absorption to activator of fiber and fabric, promotes the effecting reaction of fiber and activator.Specifically can be: (1) fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether, as JFC, CTC-FS (spinning chemical inc in Beijing), (2) high-carbon fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether (AEO), (3) polyoxyethylene carboxylate (AE), (4) polyoxyethylene amine, (5) polyoxyethylate amide, the ethylene oxide adduct of (6) polypropylene glycol.
Described reductant can be reducing substanceses such as sodium pyrosulfite, sodium sulfite.
The preparation method of the working solution of activation described in the step 1) is as follows: add shrinkproof promoter, activator in water earlier, adding acid for adjusting pH value again is 4.0-5.0, and mixing promptly.
Described acid is organic acid; In the preferred following micromolecule aliphatic acid of described organic acid any one: formic acid, acetate, butyric acid, valeric acid, monoxone, trichloroacetic acid, adipic acid, succinic acid, lactic acid and oxalic acid; Acetate most preferably.
Its structure of conformal finishing agent used in the step 3) is the organosilicon high polymer, and this product anti-shear stability, heat resistance and bin stability are all very excellent.Wherein, can not only be cross-linked with each other reaction and be cross-linked with each other into highly elastic film of the hydroxyl in the silicone macromolecule with the hydroxyl of fiber surface, carboxyl etc., thus reach washable and purpose stable dimensions.
Described conformal finishing agent can obtain by commercial sources, as conformal finishing agent CTC-236 (spinning chemical inc in Beijing).
Dye strength is benchmark with the fabric weight in the dyeing and finishing technology, i.e. relative fabric percentage, and unit refers to the mass ratio of pollutant and dye liquor claim liquor ratio again for the o.w.f bath raio.
The wool fabric of refinement described in the present invention comprises wool fabric, fleece fabrics and refinement wool-blend fabric etc.
The present invention is directed to the deficiencies in the prior art, a kind of technology that realizes the activation-conformal finishing agent arrangement of the shrinkproof machine washable of refinement wool fabric is provided.By to elongate, the scale activation processing of attenuation, increase the reflecting point of fiber, by the conformal agent fabric is finalized the design again, improve its hydrothermal stability and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, increase resilience, realize the machine washable arrangement of refinement fleece fibre blended spinning shirt.
The present invention has following advantage:
(1) machine washable stretching wool (suede) sweater after the inventive method arrangement, every index satisfies the shrinkproof requirement of International Wool Secretariat, and feel is smooth; Product shrinkage after the arrangement reaches the TM-31 of International Wool Secretariat machine washable standard less than 5%, and its conformality, flatness and good endurance.
(2) method for sorting of the present invention has solved fibre damage that traditional shrink-proof process brought and problem of environmental pollution, satisfies cleaner production and ecological textile requirement.
(3) the conformal finishing agent among the present invention has adopted highly active silane coupler, has hydroxyl, ethyoxyl group in the molecule, and the silicone macromolecule with reaction end group has self-crosslinking when handling fiber, and finishing effect more is rich in DIMENSIONAL STABILITY and elasticity; And this conformal finishing agent does not contain banned substances such as APEO, and product is stable, satisfies the environmental protection instructions for use.
The specific embodiment
The present invention will be described below by specific embodiment, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
Experimental technique described in the following embodiment if no special instructions, is conventional method; Described reagent and material if no special instructions, all can obtain from commercial channels.
Used CTC-FS, FK-232, CTC-236 are all available from spin chemical inc in Beijing among the following embodiment.
Embodiment 1,
(1) activation stage: bath raio is 1: 30, adds shrinkproof promoter (CTC-FS) 1.0% (o.w.f), activator (FK-232) 4.0% (o.w.f) successively, with acetic acid adjust pH 4.5.Working solution slowly is warming up to 40 ℃, and stepless action cashmere sweater (100% cashmere) wherein reacts at least 30 minutes until react completely (being no longer variable color of starch potassium iodide paper).In working solution, add reductant (sodium pyrosulfite) 4.0% (o.w.f), adjust pH 7.0,40 ℃ of temperature were reacted 30 minutes.Discharge opeing.
(2) wash phase: above-mentioned cashmere sweater is cleaned a time with 80 ℃ hot water wash, fully wash with cold water again.
(3) the conformal arrangement stage: it is that 4.0% (o.w.f), bath raio are 1: 30 processing bath that wool (suede) shirt is placed conformal finishing agent CTC-236 consumption, and working solution slowly is warming up to 40 ℃, is incubated 30 minutes.Discharge opeing, dehydration.
(4) baking stage: cashmere sweater is placed the cylinder dryer, in 60 ℃ of oven dry.
Embodiment 2
(1) activation stage: bath raio is 1: 40, adds shrinkproof promoter (CTC-FS) 2.0% (o.w.f), activator (FK-232) 5.0% (o.w.f) successively, with sour adjust pH 5.0.Working solution slowly is warming up to 30 ℃, and stepless action cashmere sweater (100% cashmere) wherein reacts at least 30 minutes until react completely (being no longer variable color of starch potassium iodide paper).In working solution, add reductant (sodium sulfite) 5.0% (o.w.f), adjust pH 8.0.30 ℃ of temperature were reacted 30 minutes.Discharge opeing.
(2) wash phase: above-mentioned cashmere sweater is cleaned a time with 80 ℃ hot water wash, fully wash with cold water again.
(3) the conformal arrangement stage: it is that 5.0% (o.w.f), bath raio are 1: 30 processing bath that the wool fleecy sweatshirt is placed conformal finishing agent CTC-236 consumption, and working solution slowly is warming up to 30 ℃, is incubated 40 minutes.Discharge opeing, dehydration.
(4) baking stage: cashmere sweater is placed the cylinder dryer, in 80 ℃ of oven dry.
Embodiment 3,
(1) activation stage: bath raio is 1: 20, adds shrinkproof promoter (CTC-FS) 0.5% (o.w.f), activator (FK-232) 3.0% (o.w.f) successively, with sour adjust pH 4.5.Working solution slowly is warming up to 50 ℃, and stepless action cashmere sweater (OP (drawing-down wool) 65%, C (cashmere) 35%) wherein reacts at least 30 minutes until react completely (being no longer variable color of starch potassium iodide paper).In working solution, add reductant (sodium pyrosulfite) 3.0% (o.w.f), adjust pH 7.0.40 ℃ of temperature were reacted 30 minutes.Discharge opeing.
(2) wash phase: above-mentioned cashmere sweater is cleaned a time with 80 ℃ hot water wash, fully wash with cold water again.
(3) the conformal arrangement stage: it is that 4.0% (o.w.f), bath raio are 1: 30 processing bath that the wool fleecy sweatshirt is placed conformal finishing agent CTC-236 consumption, and working solution slowly is warming up to 40 ℃, is incubated 30 minutes.Discharge opeing, dehydration.
(4) baking stage: cashmere sweater is placed the cylinder dryer, in 60 ℃ of oven dry.
Embodiment 4
(1) activation stage: bath raio is 1: 30, adds shrinkproof promoter JFC 0.5% (o.w.f), activator (FK-232) 4.0% (o.w.f) successively, with sour adjust pH 5.0.Working solution slowly is warming up to 40 ℃, and stepless action cashmere sweater (OP 70%, and C 30%) wherein reacts at least 30 minutes until react completely (being no longer variable color of starch potassium iodide paper).In working solution, add reductant (sodium pyrosulfite) 6.0% (o.w.f), adjust pH 7.0.40 ℃ of temperature were reacted 30 minutes.Discharge opeing.
(2) wash phase: above-mentioned cashmere sweater is cleaned a time with 80 ℃ hot water wash, fully wash with cold water again.
(3) the conformal arrangement stage: it is that (4.0% (o.w.f)), bath raio are 1: 20 processing bath that the wool fleecy sweatshirt is placed conformal finishing agent CTC-236 consumption, and working solution slowly is warming up to 50 ℃, is incubated 15 minutes.Discharge opeing, dehydration.
(4) baking stage: cashmere sweater is placed the cylinder dryer, in 60 ℃ of oven dry.
Cashmere sweater feel after the embodiment 1-4 arrangement is smooth, flatness good, matte is fine, can normally wear.To the cashmere sweater after the arrangement, behind 1 * 7A and 3 * 5A machine washing, shrinkage descends greatly, and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY is better, reaches the TM-31 of International Wool Secretariat machine washable standard, and the technology favorable reproducibility.Result such as following table.
Cashmere sweater machine washable finishing effect
On the occasion of being the expression elongation, negative value is that expression is shunk in the table.
Claims (4)
1. refinement wool or the shrinkproof machine washable method for sorting of fleece fabrics comprise the steps:
1) activation stage: with refinement wool or fleece fabrics with 1: 20-1: it was the activation working solution of 4.0-5.0 that 40 bath raioes place the pH value, 30 ℃ of-50 ℃ of reactions at least 0.5 hour; Add reductant 3.0-5.0%o.w.f then in described activation working solution, regulating the pH value was 6.5-8.0,30 ℃ of-50 ℃ of reactions at least 0.5 hour; Discharge opeing; Wherein, consisting of of described activation working solution: activator 3.0-5.0%o.w.f and shrinkproof promoter 0.5-2.0%o.w.f;
2) wash phase: refinement wool after step 1) handled or fleece fabrics are fully washed with cold water more earlier with 50 ℃-90 ℃ hot wash;
3) the conformal arrangement stage: with step 2) to place conformal finishing agent consumption be that 3.0-5.0%o.w.f, bath raio are 1: 20-1 for refinement wool after the washing or fleece fabrics: 30 processing was bathed, 30 ℃-50 ℃ reactions 15-30 minute; Discharge opeing, dehydration;
4) baking stage: refinement wool after step 3) handled or fleece fabrics are finished the arrangement to refinement wool or the shrinkproof machine washable of fleece fabrics in 60 ℃ of-80 ℃ of oven dry.
2. method according to claim 1 is characterized in that: activator described in the step 1) be selected from following any one: clorox, protease, potassium permanganate and peroxide; Described shrinkproof promoter is non-ionic surface active agent; Described reductant is sodium pyrosulfite or sodium sulfite.
3. method according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that: the preparation method of the working solution of activation described in the step 1) is as follows: add shrinkproof promoter in water earlier, adding acid for adjusting pH value again is 4.0-5.0, adds activator at last, and mixing promptly.
4. method according to claim 3 is characterized in that: described acid is organic acid; In the preferred following micromolecule aliphatic acid of described organic acid any one: formic acid, acetate, butyric acid, valeric acid, monoxone, trichloroacetic acid, adipic acid, succinic acid, lactic acid and oxalic acid; Acetate most preferably.
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