CN101942723A - Three-component composite yarn and yarn forming method thereof - Google Patents
Three-component composite yarn and yarn forming method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 76
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title description 11
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 59
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 238000007378 ring spinning Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000013329 compounding Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 claims 1
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 abstract description 14
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 abstract description 6
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 abstract description 6
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 abstract description 6
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 13
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 7
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 6
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000009960 carding Methods 0.000 description 4
- 241000283973 Oryctolagus cuniculus Species 0.000 description 3
- 238000012946 outsourcing Methods 0.000 description 3
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 210000000085 cashmere Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002356 single layer Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910021529 ammonia Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 230000000844 anti-bacterial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004364 calculation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000009977 dual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000001523 electrospinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000011056 performance test Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007382 vortex spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
一种三组分的复合纱,包括重量比5%-30%内层芯丝和70%-95%外层短纤经环锭细纱机复合加工而成,复合纱内层芯丝由涤纶长丝或锦纶长丝与氨纶经空气变型加工而共同组成。本发明复合纱具有有双重弹性模量,制成面料后,能改善面料对制衣的通用性,不仅能满足小变形时弹性模量的要求,又能够满足变形较大时的弹性模量与形状恢复率的要求,并提高服装穿着的紧身性、保型性和舒适度。A three-component composite yarn, which is composed of 5%-30% inner core yarn and 70%-95% outer staple fiber by weight ratio and processed by ring spinning machine. The inner core yarn of the composite yarn is made of polyester long It is composed of silk or nylon filament and spandex through air modification. The composite yarn of the present invention has double elastic modulus. After being made into a fabric, it can improve the versatility of the fabric for making clothes. It can not only meet the requirements of the elastic modulus when the deformation is small, but also meet the elastic modulus and the elastic modulus when the deformation is large. It meets the requirements of shape recovery rate, and improves the tightness, shape retention and comfort of clothing.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及一种织物纤维,尤其涉及一种三组分的复合纱,以及成纱的方法。The invention relates to a fabric fiber, in particular to a three-component composite yarn and a yarn forming method.
背景技术Background technique
由多种纤维符合而成的复合纱已在当前的纺织工业中得到应用,种类也有许多。根据构成复合纱的各种纤维种类,这些复合纱大体上可分为:短纤维与短纤维构成的复合纱、化纤长丝与短纤维构成的复合纱、化纤长丝与化纤长丝构成的复合纱三大类。目前使较多的复合纱一般是以化纤长丝为芯纱,外包各种短纤维而形成的一种结构独特的复合纱。它的芯纱常用的化纤长丝有涤纶长丝、锦纶长丝、氨纶长丝等。外包短纤维有棉、涤棉、涤纶、锦纶、腈纶及毛纤维等。复合纱的纺制方法也有多种:有环锭纺、静电纺、涡流纺和自捻纺等。Composite yarns made of a variety of fibers have been used in the current textile industry, and there are many types. According to the various fiber types that make up the composite yarn, these composite yarns can be roughly divided into: composite yarns composed of short fibers and short fibers, composite yarns composed of chemical fiber filaments and short fibers, and composite yarns composed of chemical fiber filaments and chemical fiber filaments. Three categories of yarn. At present, more composite yarns are generally made of chemical fiber filaments as the core yarn, and a composite yarn with a unique structure formed by outsourcing various short fibers. The commonly used chemical fiber filaments for its core yarn include polyester filaments, nylon filaments, spandex filaments, etc. Outsourced short fibers include cotton, polyester cotton, polyester, nylon, acrylic and wool fibers. There are also many spinning methods for composite yarns: ring spinning, electrospinning, vortex spinning, and self-twisting spinning.
发明专利CN1250826涉及一种毛涤复合纱,由着色涤纶纤维和成型的毛纤维相互包绕复合而成。根据不同的工艺要求,有不同的包绕形式,一种形式是,成型的毛纤维与着色涤纶长丝按圆柱螺旋线的形式相互包绕成单层毛涤复合纱,二者的螺旋线的直径相同。另一种形式是,着色涤纶长丝与成型的毛纤维按圆柱螺旋线的形式相互包绕成单层毛涤复合纱,二者的螺旋线的直径不相同。Invention patent CN1250826 relates to a wool-polyester composite yarn, which is composed of colored polyester fibers and formed wool fibers wrapped around each other. According to different process requirements, there are different wrapping forms. One form is that the formed wool fiber and colored polyester filament are wrapped into a single-layer wool-polyester composite yarn in the form of a cylindrical helix. same diameter. Another form is that the colored polyester filament and the formed wool fiber are mutually wrapped in the form of a cylindrical helix to form a single-layer wool-polyester composite yarn, and the diameters of the helixes of the two are different.
发明专利CN101109129公开了一种透湿抗紫外线多功能抗菌面料及其加工工艺,属于合成纤维与复合纱的复合织物技术领域,经纱采用两种纱线,其中甲经采用中捻度的S捻涤纶长丝,乙经采用由涤纶低弹丝和氨纶高弹丝组成的低捻度复合丝,甲经与乙经的质量比为50∶131;纬纱采用两种纱线,其中甲纬采用低捻度的抗菌纱线,乙纬采用由吸湿排汗纱和细绒棉组成的复合纱,该两种纬纱以1∶1的关系交叉组合,甲纬与乙纬的质量比为1∶1。Invention patent CN101109129 discloses a moisture-permeable anti-ultraviolet multifunctional antibacterial fabric and its processing technology, which belongs to the technical field of composite fabrics of synthetic fibers and composite yarns. Silk, second warp adopts low-twist composite yarn composed of polyester low-elasticity yarn and spandex high-elasticity yarn, the mass ratio of first warp and second warp is 50:131; Yarn, second weft adopts composite yarn composed of moisture-absorbing sweat-wicking yarn and fine-staple cotton. The two weft yarns are cross-combined in a 1:1 relationship, and the mass ratio of A weft and B weft is 1:1.
目前我国棉纺工业多采用棉环锭纺来纺制复合纱。对长丝、短纤复合纱的研究和报道很多,采用该种复合纱的面料不具有双重弹性模量,面料的制衣通用性不高。At present, my country's cotton spinning industry mostly uses cotton ring spinning to spin composite yarns. There are many studies and reports on filament and staple fiber composite yarns, but the fabrics using this composite yarn do not have double elastic modulus, and the fabrics have low versatility in making clothes.
发明内容Contents of the invention
本发明的目的是提供一种既能够满足小变形时模量的要求,又能够满足变形较大时模量的要求,并提高服装穿着的紧身性、保型性和舒适度的双重模量三组分复合纱,以克服现有复合纱因不具有双重弹性模量,而使制成的面料对制衣的通用性不高的问题。The purpose of the present invention is to provide a dual modulus triple that can not only meet the requirements of small deformation, but also meet the requirements of large deformation, and improve the tightness, shape retention and comfort of clothing. Component composite yarns are used to overcome the problem that the existing composite yarns do not have a double modulus of elasticity, so that the fabrics made have low versatility for clothing making.
本发明的另一个目的是提供一种三组分复合纱的成纱方法。Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for forming a three-component composite yarn.
本发明三组分复合纱,包括重量比5%-30%内层芯丝和70%-95%外层短纤。The three-component composite yarn of the present invention comprises 5%-30% inner layer core filament and 70%-95% outer layer short fiber by weight.
芯丝由涤纶长丝或锦纶长丝与氨纶共同组成,如;由涤纶长丝(PET)和氨纶丝(PU)制成的空气变形丝(ATY)、由锦纶长丝(PA)和PU制成的ATY、PET和PU制成的网路丝(NSY)以及PA和PU制成的NSY。The core yarn is composed of polyester filament or nylon filament and spandex, such as; air textured yarn (ATY) made of polyester filament (PET) and spandex filament (PU), nylon filament (PA) and PU ATY, PET and PU made of network yarn (NSY) and PA and PU made of NSY.
芯丝的制造方法是通过网络变形机或空气变形机进行复合。空气压力可选2-4KG,并通过网络变形和空气变形机复合。在复合前,一般要对氨纶进行预牵伸2.5-5倍。牵伸倍数与成纱含氨量成反比,牵伸倍数的大小应充分考虑不同规格氨纶丝的牵伸特性,其最佳状态是使氨纶丝处于应变区的中间。氨纶长丝的线密度与拉伸倍数对复合纱的性能有很大的影响,氨纶丝牵伸倍数一般取2.5倍-5.0倍,一般不要超过5倍,如:4.44tex氨纶丝用3倍-3.5倍牵伸;7.77tex用3.5倍-4.5倍;15.54tex用4倍-5倍;毛氨弹力复合纱可适当放小些,因此8D的氨纶使用2.5倍牵伸为最佳。The manufacturing method of the core wire is compounding through a network deformation machine or an air deformation machine. The air pressure can be selected from 2-4KG, and it can be compounded by network deformation and air deformation machine. Before compounding, it is generally necessary to pre-stretch the spandex by 2.5-5 times. The drafting ratio is inversely proportional to the ammonia content of the yarn. The drafting ratio should fully consider the drafting characteristics of spandex yarns of different specifications. The best state is to make the spandex yarns in the middle of the strain zone. The linear density and draw ratio of spandex filament have a great influence on the performance of composite yarn. The draft ratio of spandex filament is generally 2.5 times to 5.0 times, and generally not more than 5 times. For example: 4.44tex spandex yarn uses 3 times- 3.5 times the draft; 7.77tex use 3.5 times -4.5 times; 15.54tex use 4 times -5 times; the wool-span elastic composite yarn can be appropriately set smaller, so the 8D spandex is best to use 2.5 times the draft.
短纤包括天然短纤维,如:棉、羊毛、兔绒或其组合,和化学短纤维,如:短涤纶和黏胶等。Staple fibers include natural staple fibers such as cotton, wool, rabbit down or combinations thereof, and chemical staple fibers such as short polyester and viscose.
单一短纤维纯纺采用纺织行业常用的精纺的纺纱方式,多种短纤维混纺可采用半精纺的纺纱方式。精纺的前道还可用棉纺或毛纺的工艺。半精纺时多种原料经过预开松和预混合,在梳棉前经横铺直取可达到充分混合,考虑到短纤维的公定回潮率(GB9994-2008)和梳理过程的落棉,计算出所需的短纤维的量,将短纤维在梳棉机上进行梳理,梳理过后行并条,后经过粗纱机,纺成半制品粗纱。Single staple fiber pure spinning adopts the worsted spinning method commonly used in the textile industry, and multiple short fiber blends can adopt the semi-worsted spinning method. The front of worsted spinning can also use cotton spinning or wool spinning. During semi-worsted spinning, a variety of raw materials are pre-opened and pre-mixed, and can be fully mixed by laying horizontally and straight before carding. Considering the public moisture regain (GB9994-2008) of short fibers and the noil in the carding process, the calculation The amount of staple fiber required is produced, and the staple fiber is carded on a carding machine, drawn and drawn after carding, and then passed through a roving frame to be spun into a semi-finished roving.
将芯丝和短纤通过环锭细纱机(ZL02104397.3)进行长丝/短纤复合加工形成三组分复合纱。将作为外包纤维的短纤维经由机器喇叭口喂入摇架牵伸机构进行牵伸,将作为芯丝依次由长丝退绕装置、长丝张力调控装置和长丝定位引导装置引出后从前罗拉后方喂入前罗拉钳口,芯丝与短纤维须条汇合进入加捻区。在进入复合加捻区前,芯丝的张力由张力装置控制,使纺纱时芯丝的张力值稳定保持在20-45CN范围内;同时芯丝由定位引导装置控制其对准短纤须条中心喂入加捻三角区,保障短纤维与芯丝在加捻系数280-340同轴复合加捻,以形成芯鞘型长丝/短纤包芯复合纱。The core yarn and the short fiber are processed through a ring spinning machine (ZL02104397.3) for filament/short fiber composite processing to form a three-component composite yarn. Feed the short fiber as the outsourcing fiber to the cradle drafting mechanism through the bell mouth of the machine for drafting, and then draw it as the core yarn from the filament unwinding device, the filament tension control device and the filament positioning and guiding device in turn, and then lead out from the rear of the front roller Feed into the nip of the front roller, the core yarn and short fiber strands meet and enter the twisting zone. Before entering the composite twisting zone, the tension of the core yarn is controlled by the tension device, so that the tension value of the core yarn is kept stable within the range of 20-45CN during spinning; at the same time, the core yarn is controlled by the positioning guide device to align it with the staple fiber The center is fed into the twisting triangle area to ensure that the staple fiber and the core yarn are coaxially compounded and twisted at a twist coefficient of 280-340 to form a core-sheath filament/short fiber core-spun composite yarn.
本发明三组分复合纱在不同伸长变形阶段表现出不同弹性模量,即在小变形伸长率(ε<5%)和较大变形伸长率(5%<ε<10%)时具有不同的弹性模量。The three-component composite yarn of the present invention exhibits different elastic modulus at different elongation and deformation stages, that is, at small deformation elongation (ε<5%) and large deformation elongation (5%<ε<10%) have different moduli of elasticity.
本发明技术方案实现的有益效果:The beneficial effect that technical solution of the present invention realizes:
本发明公开的一种三组分的复合纱,以涤纶长丝(或锦纶长丝)/氨纶空气变型丝为芯丝,以短纤维(羊绒、兔绒等)粗纱为外包须条,通过环锭细纱机进行长丝/短纤复合加工形成三组分复合纱。用该复合纱制作的服装面料,可随着变形量的增大产生自绷紧效应,作为紧身服装面料使用时可大大提高服装的紧身性以及它的弹力舒适性和保型效果;作为宽松服装面料使用时,可提高服装的蓬松效果、悬垂性、厚度感、以及保型性。The invention discloses a three-component composite yarn, which uses polyester filament (or nylon filament)/spandex air-modified yarn as the core filament, and short fiber (cashmere, rabbit cashmere, etc.) Spindle spinning frame performs composite processing of filament/short fiber to form three-component composite yarn. The clothing fabric made of this composite yarn can produce self-tightening effect with the increase of deformation. When used as a tight clothing fabric, it can greatly improve the tightness of the clothing and its elastic comfort and shape retention effect; as a loose clothing When the fabric is used, it can improve the fluffy effect, drape, thickness and shape retention of the clothing.
附图说明Description of drawings
图1为具有短纤维纱的三组分复合纱外观图;Fig. 1 is the appearance diagram of the three-component composite yarn with staple fiber yarn;
图2为具有短纤维纱的三组分复合纱截面图,其中1表示PU,2表示PET。3表示羊毛,4表示兔绒。Figure 2 is a cross-sectional view of a three-component composite yarn with staple fiber yarns, where 1 denotes PU and 2 denotes PET. 3 means wool, 4 means rabbit down.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
以下详细描述本发明的技术方案。The technical solution of the present invention is described in detail below.
实施例 复合纱的制造Example Manufacture of Composite Yarn
结合ZL02104397.3,在FA506环锭细纱机上,将作为外包纤维的短纤须条经由机器喇叭口喂入摇架牵伸机构进行牵伸,将作为芯丝的网络丝(PET DTY77dtex/36f+PU 44dtex/1f)由长丝退绕装置、长丝张力调控装置和长丝定位引导装置引出后从前罗拉后方喂入前罗拉钳口,此时长丝与短纤维(羊毛和兔绒)须条汇合进入加捻区。在进入复合加捻区前,长丝的张力由特定的张力装置控制,使纺纱时长丝的张力值稳定保持在合理范围;同时长丝由定位引导装置控制其对准短纤须条中心喂入加捻三角区保障短纤须条与长丝同轴复合加捻,以形成芯鞘型长丝/短纤包芯复合纱。成纱机成纱工艺参数设置见表1。Combined with ZL02104397.3, on the FA506 ring spinning machine, the staple fiber strands as the outsourcing fibers are fed to the cradle drafting mechanism through the bell mouth of the machine for drafting, and the network yarns (PET DTY77dtex/36f+PU 44dtex/1f) is drawn out from the filament unwinding device, filament tension control device and filament positioning guide device, and then fed into the nip of the front roller from the rear of the front roller. twisting zone. Before entering the complex twisting zone, the tension of the filament is controlled by a specific tension device, so that the tension value of the filament is kept stable and within a reasonable range during spinning; at the same time, the filament is controlled by a positioning guide device to align it with the center of the staple fiber. Enter the twisting triangle area to ensure the coaxial compound twisting of staple fiber strands and filaments to form a core-sheath type filament/short fiber core-spun composite yarn. See Table 1 for the setting of the yarn forming process parameters of the yarn forming machine.
表1 包芯复合纱线成纱工艺设置Table 1 Yarn forming process settings of core-spun composite yarn
制得的三组分复合纱具有短纤维纱的外观(见图1)和截面图(见图2),可以看出在该包覆网络丝的芯鞘型复合纱中,短纤维实现了对网络丝的完全的包覆。网络丝成束状处在复合纱的中心。由于网络丝处于一定的伸直状态,这样的复合纱具有短纤维纤纱的外观,又有长丝纱的身骨,纱线的手感和弹性都很好。The prepared three-component composite yarn has the appearance of short fiber yarn (see Figure 1) and cross-sectional view (see Figure 2), it can be seen that in the core-sheath composite yarn covered with network filaments, the short fiber realizes the Complete sheathing of the mesh wire. The network filaments are bundled in the center of the composite yarn. Since the network filaments are in a certain straightening state, such a composite yarn has the appearance of a staple fiber yarn and the body of a filament yarn, and the yarn has a good feel and elasticity.
由表2可见,①三组分包芯复合纱在小变型伸长率(ε<5%)时,拉伸力主要由芯丝承担,外包短纤维由卷曲状逐步伸直,此时复合纱线的弹性模量也称为复合纱线的卷曲弹性模量E1,主要由芯丝的初始模量决定;It can be seen from Table 2 that ① when the three-component core-spun composite yarn has a small deformation elongation (ε<5%), the tensile force is mainly borne by the core filament, and the outer short fiber is gradually straightened from a crimped state. At this time, the composite yarn The elastic modulus of the thread is also called the crimp elastic modulus E 1 of the composite yarn, which is mainly determined by the initial modulus of the core filament;
②三组分包芯复合纱在产生较大变形伸长率(5%<ε<10%)时,拉伸力主要由伸长小、模量大的外包短纤维承担,此时复合纱线的模量E2较大;② When the three-component core-spun composite yarn produces a large deformation elongation (5%<ε<10%), the tensile force is mainly borne by the outer short fiber with small elongation and large modulus. At this time, the composite yarn The modulus E 2 is larger;
③三组分包芯复合纱在变形伸长率为5%<ε<10%的阶段,拉伸应力逐步增大并即将克服复合纱线外包短纤维之间的缠结约束而产生滑移的趋势,在这个阶段,拉伸应力主要由短纤维及芯丝相互之间的缠结牢度来确定,此时复合纱线的弹性模量为E3;③When the deformation elongation of three-component core-spun composite yarn is 5%<ε<10%, the tensile stress gradually increases and is about to overcome the entanglement constraint between the short fibers wrapped in the composite yarn and cause slippage Trend, at this stage, the tensile stress is mainly determined by the entanglement fastness between short fibers and core filaments, at this time, the elastic modulus of the composite yarn is E 3 ;
④三组分包芯复合纱在变形伸长率为20%≤ε≤40%的阶段,外包短纤滑移、断裂,芯丝被完全拉直,芯丝的大分子链直接承受拉伸应力,在曲线上表现为BC段,随着应变增大,应力线性剧增,直至完全断裂。④ When the deformation elongation of three-component core-spun composite yarn is 20% ≤ ε ≤ 40%, the outer short fiber slips and breaks, the core yarn is completely straightened, and the macromolecular chain of the core yarn directly bears the tensile stress , which is shown as segment BC on the curve, with the increase of strain, the stress increases linearly and sharply until it breaks completely.
三组分包芯复合纱三组分包芯复合纱拉伸变形伸长率ε<10%时,其变形伸长率ε≤5%的弹性模量E1大于拉伸变形伸长率5%≤ε≤10%阶段的的弹性模量为E2。用本专利构造的三组分复合纱线在不同伸长变形阶段可表现出不同的弹性模量,即在小变形伸长率(ε<5%)和较大变形伸长率(5%<ε<10%)时具有不同的弹性模量。用该复合纱制作的服装面料,可随着变形量的增大而产生自绷紧效应,作为紧身服装面料使用时可大大提高服装的紧身性以及它的弹力舒适性和保型效果;作为宽松服装面料使用时,可提高服装的蓬松效果、悬垂性、厚度感,以及保型性。Three-component core-spun composite yarn When the tensile deformation elongation of three-component core-spun composite yarn ε<10%, the elastic modulus E1 of its deformation elongation ε≤5% is greater than the tensile deformation elongation of 5% The elastic modulus of the stage of ≤ε≤10% is E 2 . The three-component composite yarn constructed by this patent can show different elastic modulus at different elongation and deformation stages, that is, at small deformation elongation (ε<5%) and large deformation elongation (5%<5%) ε<10%) have different elastic modulus. The clothing fabric made of this composite yarn can produce self-tightening effect as the amount of deformation increases, and when used as a tight clothing fabric, it can greatly improve the tightness of the clothing and its elastic comfort and shape retention effect; as a loose When used in clothing fabrics, it can improve the fluffy effect, drape, thickness, and shape retention of clothing.
表2 复合纱的性能测试Table 2 Performance test of composite yarn
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