CN101270527B - Process for manufacturing sirospun yarn jean facing material - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a manufacturing process of a siro yarn denim fabric. Firstly, the siro yarn is produced by using the siro spinning technology, and the spun siro yarn is wound, and then the spun siro yarn is wound. Warping, dyeing and sizing are used as warp yarns to make weaving beams, and then the twin yarns are used as the warp yarns, and the twin yarns, rotor yarns or ring-spun yarns are used as the weft yarns on the shuttle loom according to the fabric structure and weaving process of denim. It is woven into gray cloth, and finally the gray cloth is made into a finished product after subsequent finishing. As the warp yarn with better quality is used as the warp yarn, it is easy to break the yarn during the dyeing process, and the color is uniform, and the quality requirements for sizing can be reduced. The reeding efficiency is high, the shedding is clear during weaving, the tension is uniform, the end breaks are less, and the flying flowers on the workshop and the machine are less, which is more beneficial to the cleaning of the workshop and the maintenance of the machine.

Description

The manufacturing technique of sirospun yarn jean facing material

Technical field

The present invention relates to the manufacturing technique of a kind of manufacturing technique of jean facing material, particularly a kind of sirospun yarn jean facing material.

Background technology

At present, the jean on the market is to adopt rotor yarn to produce mostly, because tight structure in the outer pine of rotor yarn, the jean body bone that is made into is stiffening, and pliability is not good.In addition, the tension force of rotor yarn is low approximately by 15% with the ring spun yarn of line density, when preparatory process denims many, that warp tension is big are weaved before being used to knit; requirement height to starching; broken end in the production process is shut down many, makes that the production efficiency of denim is not high, and the quality of cloth cover is also relatively poor.Therefore, increasing in recent years denim factory is tending towards adopting ring spun yarn to produce denim.The tension force of ring spun yarn is higher, helps dyeing and weaving processing, little breakage production efficiency height; The specific volume of ring spun yarn is than little by 15%～20% with the rotor yarn of line density, the denim coverage coefficient that weaves is than little with the rotor yarn denim of line density, thereby cloth matter is soft, has more taking, it is lightening to meet current cowboy's product, the development trend of soft comfortableization.

But the hairiness ratio of ring spun yarn is more, and particularly the above plumage that becomes mildewed of 3mm is more, is entangled with easily in the production process, makes the dividing sinker difficulty, and opening is unclear when weaving, and broken end increases, and is higher to the requirement of starching.No matter denim yarn in the market is rotor yarn or ring spun yarn, and ubiquitous problem all is: the dried filoplume poor, yarn of bar particularly becomes mildewed, and plumage is more, gloss is relatively poor.Consequent problem is: to the requirement height of starching, easily produce aberration and coloured light is irregular; Flyings on the machine and the workshop are many, and environment is poor; Filoplume is many on the grey cloth, and is big to the singe pressure of operation of follow-up arrangement; The body bone of rotor yarn denim is hard, and pliability is poor; The filoplume of ring spun yarn is many and wear no resistance, and causes warp thread to fall hair, falls slurry, fades frequently, makes cloth cover coloured light inequality; The gloss dimness of lining, feel is coarse etc.

Summary of the invention

The technical problem to be solved in the present invention provides a kind of manufacturing technique of jean facing material, makes that the bar of jean facing material makes a good job of, the less and good luster of the filoplume of yarn.

In order to solve the problems of the technologies described above, the manufacturing technique of a kind of sirospun yarn jean facing material of the present invention, described manufacturing technique is:

A. adopting the general comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning rove of 4.660g/10m is raw material, and cotton fibre quality length is 29mm, and the grand Buddhist nun's value of mark is 4.0～5.0;

B. raw material being sent to the fore-spinning technological process is: the pre-cotton blender machine of BDT019 griping cotton machine → GBRA → SRS6 step cleaner → RN porcupine opener → MPM six storehouses cotton blender machine → RV card wire opener → FBK533 hopper → DK740 carding machine → 720 drawing frames → 720 drawing frames → 720 drawing frames → 660 Speed frames → FA601 fine spining machine;

C. the match doff that spins is having winder on field, the village No.7R-11 type automatic winder of air splicer and clearance-type yarn clearer, and winding speed is 1000m/min, and the cheese behind the winder is carried out warping on the homemade high speed beam warper of GA121 type;

D. being placed on the creel of the indigo sizing-dyeing combination machine of ASGA388-1 type through axle after the warping dyeed and starching.Warp thread is by after drawing through axle, through one permeable tank, and one wash water groove, enter seven road indigo dyeing grooves and oxidation frame group, dyed yarn enters the storage creel after three road post processing tanks clean, through pre-drying cylinder oven dry, arrive stock tank and oven dry once more at last again, make the dyed yarn beam of a loom.

Fore-spinning technology is: center distance of front roller is 44mm, yarn twist 60 sth. made by twisting/10cm, back zone drafting multiple 1.15, ingot speed 14000r/min, horn mouth diplopore centre-to-centre spacing 10mm.

The invention has the beneficial effects as follows: owing to adopted the more excellent match doff of quality to make warp thread, at the easy little breakage of dyeing course dividing sinker, colouring evenly, sizing quality is required and can reduce, the denting efficient of gaiting height, opening is clear when weaving, and the even tension broken end stops few, flyings on workshop and the board are few, safeguard comparatively favourable to workshop cleaning and board; Compare with rotor yarn, ring spun yarn that factory uses, the denim of producing under the same process condition, sirospun yarn jean have fairly obvious sense organ advantage: soft, smooth, lines is clear, silky luster is arranged, and color and luster is even, generous, and the cloth cover filoplume is few; Hairiness ratio more than the 1mm reduces 47.51% with this machine ring spun yarn of line density, reduces 72.43% than factory with ring spun yarn, reduces 44.74% than factory with rotor yarn; Hairiness ratio more than the 3mm reduces 89.54% with this machine ring spun yarn of line density, reduces 97.64% than factory with ring spun yarn, reduces 95.22% than factory with rotor yarn; Yarn unevenness CV% reduces by 16.14% than this machine ring spun yarn, reduces by 28.96% than factory with ring spun yarn, reduces by 28.10% than factory with rotor yarn; Single yarn tension improves 54.74% than this machine ring spun yarn, and is higher by 19.56% with ring spun yarn than factory, higher by 81.65% with rotor yarn than factory; Elongation at break improves 10.17% than this machine ring spun yarn, and is higher by 19.75 with ring spun yarn than factory, higher by 26.74% with rotor yarn than factory; Abrasion resistance improves 367.4% than factory with ring ingot jeans yarn, improves 338.8% than factory with the revolving cup jeans yarn; Yarn defects such as the slubbing of match network jeans yarn, details, cotton knot are obvious lacking than this machine ring spun yarn, station-service ring spun yarn, rotor yarn all also.

Description of drawings

The present invention is further detailed explanation below in conjunction with the drawings and specific embodiments.

Fig. 1 is a technology path schematic diagram of the present invention;

Fig. 2 is the spinning principle schematic that the match network spins;

Fig. 3 is the side view that the match network spins spinning machine;

Fig. 4 is the organization chart of jean of the present invention.

The specific embodiment

Referring to figs. 1 through Fig. 4, the manufacturing technique of a kind of sirospun yarn jean facing material of the present invention, adopt earlier the match network to spin the spinning technique production doff of attending the competition, spun match doff is carried out winder, again the match doff behind the winder is carried out warping, indigo or other dyeing and starching as warp thread and make beam of a loom, then to match doff as warp thread, weaving by the fabric tissue of denim and weaving process on loom as weft yarn with match doff, rotor yarn or ring spun yarn becomes grey cloth, and last grey cloth is made finished product through after the follow-up arrangement.Wherein, the follow-up arrangement of described grey cloth comprise successively singe, go up grout, skew, prebake, spraying or steam dewing, rubber blanket are shrinkproof, blanket drying, finished product inspection and packing.

With reference to Fig. 2 and Fig. 3, when the spinning of match network, the rove A that two bursts of unwindings are got off be respectively from two rove spools 13 that are hung in front and rear row on the fixing creel 12 slowly unwinding get off, through behind the yarn-distributing rod 14, enter 15, two strands of yarn bundles of one two hole diplopore horn mouth at regular intervals respectively and feed ring throstle abreast by fixing spacing.Be provided with roller 1 and three draw zones that the roller 2 that is arranged on the top is formed of being arranged on the below by three in this ring throstle, the roller that mediates wherein is locked by following apron 5 with curved surface ladder downside pin 3 and a spring tension device 4, the roller that mediates of top is sold 6 and is locked by upper leather ring 7 on a spring, under the certain pressure of rocking arm pressurization, on, following apron 7,5 contact surface forms an effective gripping surface together, fibre bundle is transmitted to the roller direction that is positioned at the place ahead, by after, in, first three pursues increasing progressively the roller rotating speed, realizes the drawing-off effect to yarn.Insert in spun yarn spool 10 on the spindle along with spindle rotates together, affect steel traveler 9 rotations that are enclosed within on the rings 11 by yarn, the rotation of steel traveler 9 drives the rotation of sliver, generation twisting effect, the twist continues jaw direction transmission forward through behind the twizzle 8, makes through the bundle of two after drawing-off yarn and converges twisting at convergent point 16 places apart from preceding jaw certain distance.Behind twice inhibition of twisting power through twizzle 8 and convergent point 16, have only more weak twisting power to be delivered to before on the yarn section between jaw and convergent point, make and only add weak twist on the one-ply yarn section.The speed discrepancy of spindle and spun yarn spool 10 and steel traveler 9 makes resultant yarn can be wound on the spool, forms the match doff.

Because what jeans yarn of the present invention adopted is the Siro-spun yarn technology, both had been different from revolving cup and spins on principle, distinguishes to some extent with RING SPINNING again, the arrangement mode of fiber all changes because of the change of its spinning method in the ectonexine structure of yarn and the yarn.After two strands of fibre bundles of cause are subjected to certain weak twist separately, converge the twisting resultant yarn at convergent point place again apart from preceding jaw certain distance, and then fiber helps control after preceding jaw is subjected to certain restraining force, it is too violent that weak twist is unlikely to make interfibrous inside and outside transfer again simultaneously, therefore interfibrous parallel stretch degree keeps better, and the gloss of resultant yarn and smooth feeling can improve.On the other hand, when spinning the match doff of same line density and ring spun yarn, number of fiber on the per share in theory yarn of match doff area of beam, preceding jaw place is half of resultant yarn cross-section fibers radical, therefore, half that trigonum width that preceding jaw place match doff is per share and number of fiber are ring spun yarn, the fibrage thickness difference of trigonum center and peripheral is little like this, width is little, help the control of edge fiber during twisting, can reduce filoplume, simultaneously, when two strands of soft twist yarns converge twisting at the convergent point place, can make wherein the filoplume on one when twisting, be caught or cover, therefore by another strand yarn, the filoplume number can further reduce, and the plumage that particularly becomes mildewed can significantly reduce after this process.Because two strands of fibre bundles that the match network spins are twisted through drawing-off earlier again, therefore, what be exaggerated after the additional not even drawing-off that drawing-off produces is irregular, can twisting and cooperation with under obtain to a certain degree improvement, it is also good than ring spun yarn to make the bar of match doff do.When the match network spins, two strands of fibre bundles are subjected to the weak twist effect to form soft twist yarn earlier, still keep better parallel degree of stretching in the soft twist yarn between fiber, interfibrous inside and outside transfer is less, two strands of soft twist yarns again with certain angle of the crossing at the convergent point place mutual looping twisting resultant yarn, therefore two strands fiber keeps relatively independent in the resultant yarn, a large amount of exchanges can not take place except that the small amount of fibers head end shift.When the resultant yarn tension was stretched active force, the fiber parallel stretch degree in the yarn was good stressed evenly, and the fracture simultaneity increases, and the brute force that shows as yarn improves.Because the two strands of yarns in preceding jaw place have certain spacing, make strand soft twist yarn certain angle of the crossing be arranged at the convergent point place, two yarns all form certain inclination angle to the yarn axle in the resultant yarn, one-ply yarn tilted to produce certain elongation to the yarn axle earlier when resultant yarn was stretched, fiber and yarn axle are tending towards fracture or slippage taking place again after parallel, and the elongation at break of therefore matching doff is slightly high.

Spinning process with the textile match of 48tex network jeans yarn is an example, and adopting the general comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning rove of 4.660g/10m is raw material, and the cotton raw material is the one-level saw ginned cotton from Xinjiang formation, and cotton fibre quality length is 29mm, and the grand Buddhist nun's value of mark is 4.0～5.0.The fore-spinning technological process is: the pre-cotton blender machine of BDT019 griping cotton machine → GBRA → SRS6 step cleaner → RN porcupine opener → MPM six storehouses cotton blender machine → RV card wire opener → FBK533 hopper → DK740 carding machine → 720 drawing frames → 720 drawing frames → 720 drawing frames → 660 Speed frames → FA601 fine spining machine.Theoretical total draft and actual total draft that the match network spins operation are respectively 19.17 times and 18.4 times, and best spinning process is: center distance of front roller is 44mm, yarn twist 60 sth. made by twisting/10cm, back zone drafting multiple 1.15, ingot speed 14000r/min, horn mouth diplopore centre-to-centre spacing 10mm.

The match doff that spins is having winder on field, the village No.7R-11 type automatic winder of air splicer and clearance-type yarn clearer, and winding speed is 1000m/min; Cheese behind the winder is carried out warping on the homemade high speed beam warper of GA121 type.

Being placed on the creel of the indigo sizing-dyeing combination machine of ASGA388-1 type through axle after the warping dyeed and starching.Warp thread is by after drawing through axle, through one permeable tank, and one wash water groove, enter seven road indigo dyeing grooves and oxidation frame group, dyed yarn enters the storage creel after three road post processing tanks clean, through pre-drying cylinder oven dry, arrive stock tank and oven dry once more at last again, make the dyed yarn beam of a loom.The prescription of permeable tank and main technique are: 861# bleeding agent 1.5～2.0g/L, caustic soda 1.0～1.5g/L, 80～85 ℃ of temperature, time 20 ± 5s, pick-up 70～75%.Rinsing bowl adopts the washing of spray flowing water, 40～45 ℃ of water temperatures, nip pressure 3～3.5t, pick-up 75 ± 3%.The main technique of indigo dyeing is: dye level (being dye-uptake) 2.0%, 25 ℃ ± 3 ℃ of dyeing temperatures, dyeing kinetics 30m/min, bipseudoindoxyl dye concentration 2.0g/L, the weight proportion of staining bath dye bath component is indigo: caustic soda: sodium hydrosulfite=1: 1.5: 1.5, pad time 20 ± 2s, oxidization time per pass 90s, extreme trace 90～120s, pick-up 75～80%, nip pressure 2.5～3.0t.Formula of size is: converted starch 100kg/1500L, glue (polyacrylic polymer) 20kg/1500L, rubber powder 10kg/1500L, cured 10kg/1500L, butter 25kg/1500L.Sizing temperature is 98 ℃, the rate of sizing 7%, and starching speed and dyeing kinetics are synchronous.

Process configuration on GTM type Rapier looms is: the special number 48tex * 48tex of yarn (12 English prop up * 12 English prop up), 315 * 181/10cm of thread count, fabric width 152.4cm, 4932 of total quantity of warps, the heavy 271.2g/cm of cloth ²(8.0 oz/yd ²), organize 2/1 ↗ twill, the method for gaiting is the suitable method, several 6 of heald frame of wearing, reed dent density 103 dents/10cm, 3/dent of denting mode, speed of a motor vehicle 350r/min, opening time 300 degree, sword head handing-over times 180 degree, back beam height+8.5mm, warp stop frame height+5mm.Back beam height, warp stop frame height are that relative fell is the height of benchmark, and opening time and sword head handing-over time are loom main shaft dial angle number.

Claims (4)

1. the manufacturing process of siro yarn denim fabric, it is characterized in that described manufacturing process is: a. Using 4.660g/10m carded cotton roving as raw material, the cotton fiber quality length is 29mm, and the micronaire value is 4.0-5.0; b. The technological process of sending raw materials into the pre-spinning process is: BDT019 plucking machine → GBRA pre-blending machine → SRS6 six-drum opener → RN porcupine opener → MPM six-storey cotton blending machine → RV card needle opener →FBK533 Cotton Box→DK740 Carding Machine→720 Drawing Frame→720 Drawing Frame→720 Drawing Frame→660 Roving Frame→FA601 Spinning Frame; c. The spun twine yarn is wound on the Murata No.7R-11 automatic winder with air splicer and gap yarn clearer. The winding speed is 1000m/min. The yarn is warped on the GA121 domestic high-speed batch warping machine; d. The warped warp beams are placed on the warp beam frame of the ASGA388-1 indigo dyeing and sizing combined machine for dyeing and sizing. After the warp yarns are drawn out from the warp beams, they pass through a permeation tank and a washing tank to enter seven indigo dyeing tanks. Dyeing tank and oxidation frame group, after the dyed yarn is washed by three post-treatment tanks, it enters the yarn storage rack, then is dried by the pre-drying cylinder, and finally reaches the size tank and is dried again to make the dyed yarn weaving shaft; The pre-spinning process process is as follows: the center distance of the rollers in the front zone is 44mm, the yarn twist is 60 twists/10cm, the draft ratio in the back zone is 1.15, the spindle speed is 14000r/min, and the center distance between the two holes of the bell mouth is 10mm. 2. The manufacturing process of siro yarn denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the treatment process in the permeation tank is: 861# penetrant 1.5～2.0g/L, caustic soda 1.0～1.5g/L , temperature 80 ~ 85 ℃, time 20 ± 5s, rolling rate 70 ~ 75%. 3. The manufacturing process of the siro yarn denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the treatment process in the washing tank is: washing with spray running water, the water temperature is 40-45°C, and the roll pressure is 3-3.5t , The surplus rate is 75±3%. 4. The manufacturing process of the siro yarn denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the treatment process in the indigo dyeing tank is: dyeing depth of 2.0%, dyeing temperature of 25 ° C ± 3 ° C, dyeing speed of 30 m/ min, the concentration of indigo dye is 2.0g/L, the weight ratio of the dye bath components in the dye bath is indigo: caustic soda: hydrosulfite = 1: 1.5: 1.5, the padding time is 20 ± 2s, the oxidation time is 90s per pass, and the padding rate is 75-80%, roll pressure 2.5-3.0t.

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