CN101215745B - Method for processing wool jean plus material - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a process for preparing wool denim fabric, which solves the problem that the existing wool fiber can not be used in the manufacture of denim fabric. The invention has simple method, convenient operation, and uses wool fiber in the manufacture of denim fabric. The method comprises first, taking shrinkproof top wool as raw material, second, adopting indigo dyes to dye chaine, steps comprise preprocessing under the temperature of 50-70 DEG C, washing in hot water under the temperature of 35-45 DEG C, washing in cold water in normal temperature, dipping for times, oxygenizing, dipping in acid whose PH value is 11.2-11.3, washing in water, carrying out soft process under the temperature of 50-70 DEG C, drying under the temperature of 80-100 DEG C, third, sizing on chaine, steps comprise reeling off through shaft, sizing, the temperature is 50-70 DEG C, wet splitting, drying, the temperature is 80-90 DEG C, dry splitting, and reeling, fourth, weaving denim cloth, fifth, post finishing wool denim cloth: genapping, diagonal tensioning, full-width scouring, full-width crabbing, relaxedly steam preshrinking, full decatizing and doffing cloth, finally obtaining finished product, namely wool denim fabric.

Description

The processing method of wool jean plus material

Technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of processing method of lining, relate in particular to a kind of processing method of wool jean plus material.

Background technology

Along with improving constantly of living standard, people also bring in constant renewal in the consumption idea of textiles.Represent fashion, fashionable jean facing material also variation with rapid changepl. never-ending changes and improvements taking place, outward appearance is more rich and varied, and quality is better.But traditional jean all is to adopt cotton thread as raw material, its basic characteristics mainly show the dyeing aspect, the dyeing of jean is dyestuff with indigo or sulfuration class dyestuff usually, adopt the mode of padding oxidation continuously, obtain ring and dye effect, that is to say, behind the jean warp dyeing yarn, yarn has just obtained certain color on the top layer, often dye on not yarn inside, the clothes water-washing process utilizes the color characteristics of jean just, utilizes modes such as enzyme is washed, stone mill, local sandblast to obtain different styles, demonstrates fully clothes leisure style; The dyeing of indigo is normally carried out under alkali condition, for improving the yarn dyeing performance, improves dye-uptake, need dye pre-treatment under alkali condition toward contact; Denim is because fabric compactness is big, and the weaving process power of beating up is big, often needs starching, and starch slurry high temperature sizing technique is generally adopted in starching, and slurry groove temperature is more than 90 ℃, and drying tube temperature is generally about 130 ℃; The denim weaving tension is big, often has bigger warp-wise internal stress under the fabric knitting behind the machine, that is to say that there is bigger potential washing shrinkage in fabric, generally adopts the mode of mechanical preshrunk to reduce washing shrinkage.

Its feel of the lining that wool fibre is made into, gloss etc. all are better than cotton yarn class lining, but because the These characteristics of denim, wool fibre has increased difficulty at aspects such as washability, alkali resistance, resistance to elevated temperatures, yarn strengths to the processing of jean dyeing, sizing, clothes washing etc., therefore traditional jean processing method can't adopt the pure wool yarn as raw material, especially can not do warp thread.

Summary of the invention

Purpose of the present invention is exactly in order to solve the problem that present pure wool yarn can't be used for jean processing, to provide a kind of method simple, easy to operate, the pure wool yarn can being used for the processing method of the wool jean plus material of jean production.

For achieving the above object, the present invention adopts following technical scheme:

A kind of processing method of wool jean plus material,

(1) with shrinkproof wool top as raw material, will adopt wool top that the RESIN FINISH shrink-proof process handles as warp thread; The wool top of handling with the oxidation shrink-proof process is as weft yarn;

(2) adopt bipseudoindoxyl dye that warp thread is dyeed, staining procedure is for carrying out pre-treatment-contaminate in 35-45 ℃ of following hot water wash-cold wash at normal temperatures-repeatedly, oxidation under 50-70 ℃, its pH value be 11.2-11.3-pickling-washing-in 50-70 ℃ of following soft treatment-descend to dry at 80-100 ℃;

(3) warp thread is carried out starching, the starching step is, warper beam unwinding-starching, and temperature is 50-70 ℃-wet leasing-oven dry, temperature 80-90 ℃-dried leasing-coiling;

(4) weave denim;

(5) wool jean cloth is carried out the back arrangement, the arrangement process is that the decatize preshrunk-jar steaming-cropping of singing-skew-open width braying-open width crabbing-relax obtains the finished product wool jean plus material.

In the described step (1), heavy and improve knitting wool intensity and improve weavability for meeting the requirements of cloth, make a strand yarn after transferring wool top to single thread, warp thread and weft yarn all adopt a strand yarn.

In the described step (2), staining procedure is, adopt bipseudoindoxyl dye under 60 ℃, to carry out pre-treatment, and add 209 electrostatic agents: 5g/l, penetrant t S:2g/l-is in 40 ℃ of following hot water wash-cold wash at normal temperatures-7 time dip-dye, oxidation continuously, its pH value is the 11.2-11.3-pickling, acetic acid 10g/l, and-washing twice-in 60 ℃ of following soft treatment twice-oven dry under 100 ℃; 209 press in use for electrostatic agent: add 15 kilograms of electrostatic agent consumptions in 3000 premium on currency and use; Bleeding agent uses by adding 6 kilograms of bleeding agent consumptions in 3000 premium on currency; Glacial acetic acid adds 10.8 kg of ice acetic acid consumptions by 2700 premium on currency to be used.

In the described step (3), the starching process is, warper beam unwinding-starching, and temperature is 65 ℃ ℃-wet leasing-oven dry, temperature 80-90 ℃-dried leasing-coiling, tension force is 0.25mpa, get damp again, 13.5%, slurry therewith is an acrylic size.

In the described step (4), when denim is weaved, adopt the weaving process of small tension receiving coil, big opening, 480 rev/mins of loom rotating speeds.

The present invention is according to the every physical and chemical performance of wool fibre and the jean characteristics at aspects such as color, washings, by selecting raw material, improving indigo dyeing technology, slashing technique, postfinishing process, preferably resolve the distinctive color of wool fibre and jean, weave, the contradiction of aspect such as clothes washing, guaranteed every wearability of lining.

The invention has the beneficial effects as follows: select for use shrinkproof wool top as raw material, solved the felting problem of wool jean plus material clothes water-washing process, the wool top that adopts the processing of RESIN FINISH shrink-proof process is as warp thread; The wool top of handling with the oxidation shrink-proof process is as weft yarn, taken into account requirement and the leisure next to the shin garment material comfortable and easy to wear requirement of production process to warp thread brute force etc.; By adjusting dyeing, slashing technique, both obtained processing effect preferably, effectively reduce of the damage of various fabrication process conditions again to wool fibre; Adopt jean tradition postfinishing process to combine, efficiently solve jean DIMENSIONAL STABILITY problem, kept every qualities such as the distinctive feel of wool fabric, elasticity, gloss simultaneously with the spinning postfinishing process of hair

The specific embodiment

The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with embodiment.

Embodiment 1:

A kind of processing method of wool jean plus material,

(1) with shrinkproof wool top as raw material, as warp thread, this type of technology covers the effect that reaches shrinkproof with the scale layer on wool surface, makes wool have shrinkproof result and brute force preferably with the wool top that adopts the RESIN FINISH shrink-proof process to handle; The wool top of handling with the oxidation shrink-proof process is as weft yarn, the scale layer of wool can be destroyed after adopting this technology, makes wool have gloss and feel preferably.

(2) in the wool yarn process, for making the spinning life smoothly, often add a certain amount of and crude oil Germany auxiliary agent, for accelerating to dye on the dyestuff, often also need before dyeing, be removed.For obtaining Color preferably, reduce the damage of process conditions to greatest extent simultaneously to wool fibre, dyeing is:

Adopt bipseudoindoxyl dye under 60 ℃, to carry out pre-treatment, and add 209 electrostatic agents: 5g/l, penetrant t S:2g/l-is in 40 ℃ of following hot water wash-cold wash at normal temperatures-7 time dip-dye, oxidation continuously, its pH value is the 11.2-11.3-pickling, acetic acid 10g/l ,-washing twice-in 60 ℃ of following soft treatment twice-oven dry under 100 ℃.209 press in use for electrostatic agent: add 15 kilograms of electrostatic agent consumptions in 3000 premium on currency and use; Bleeding agent uses by adding 6 kilograms of bleeding agent consumptions in 3000 premium on currency; Glacial acetic acid adds 10.8 kg of ice acetic acid consumptions by 2700 premium on currency to be used

Adopt above-mentioned technology dyeing, both obtained Color preferably, have to have alleviated the damage of process conditions wool fibre:

	Yarn strength (CN/tex)	Yarn breakage irregularity (%)
			Dye preceding raw yarn	7.44	?9.73
Dye the back yarn	6.75	?11.75

Comprehensive dyeing course warp-wise tension force is to the yarn influence of stretching property by force, and above data can prove that wool fibre does not have substantially in dyeing course influenced.

(3) jean is owing to its design feature, and often tightness is big, and weaving tension is big, and the probability that warp thread is rubbed is many, needs to adopt the starching means to improve the brute force and the anti-wear performance of yarn usually.Consider that the brute force of wool yarn own is lower, and the stretching property by force of process dyeing yarn has been subjected to considerable influence, smooth for guaranteeing weaving process, the starching stage will reach and make that warp thread strengthens, wear-resisting purpose, must reduce fibre damage, reduce aspect such as yarn elongation and adjust slashing techniques.In conjunction with the chemical constitution characteristics of wool fibre, adopting acrylic size is that main slurry carries out low temperature starching, and reduces the drying cylinder problem by reducing the speed of a motor vehicle, lowers each road tension force and reduces yarn elongation.Concrete steps are:

Warper beam unwinding-starching, temperature are 65 ℃-wet leasing-oven dry, and temperature 80-90 ℃-dried leasing-coiling, tension force is 0.25mpa, moisture regain, 13.5%.

Warp thread through above technology is adjusted has obtained starch finishing effect preferably:

	Powerful (CN/tex)	Fracture strength irregularity (%)
			Before the sizing	6.75	11.75
Behind the sizing	8.15	7.9

(4) weave denim;

Consider the powerful and elongation performance of wool yarn, adopt the weaving process of small tension receiving coil, big opening, utilize the novel arrow shaft loom of Bi Jianuo, 480 rev/mins of the speed of a motor vehicle, efficient is more than 90%, because aspects such as spun yarn is done at bar, card nailing neps are far superior to conventional denim yarn quality standard, following machine grey quality is better than conventional cowboy's grey quality, and product A+rate is more than 98%.

(5) wool jean plus material is because the resilient characteristic of itself, a little less than making wool fibre plastic deformation ability, wool fabric adopts mechanical preshrunk mode often can not reach desirable washing shrinkage, and the big molecule of fiber is crosslinked again to obtain desirable DIMENSIONAL STABILITY and normally allow by long humid heat treatment.Therefore adopted the mode that jean tradition postfinishing process is combined with the spinning postfinishing process of hair, i.e. employing is tiltedly drawn earlier, the production technology of rewetting HEAT SETTING (crabbing, decatizing), obtain good effect, every index all reaches requirement, and its detailed process is:

Decatize preshrunk-jar steaming-the cropping of singing-skew-open width braying-open width crabbing-relax obtains the finished product wool jean plus material.

Embodiment 2:

In the present embodiment, the staining procedure of step (2) carries out pre-treatment-in 35 ℃ of following hot water wash-cold wash at normal temperatures-repeatedly contaminate, oxidation for adopting bipseudoindoxyl dye under 50 ℃, its pH value be 11.2-pickling-washing-in 50 ℃ of following soft treatment-dry under 80 ℃;

The starching step of step (3) is, warper beam unwinding-starching, and temperature is 50 ℃-wet leasing-oven dry, 80 ℃-dried leasing-coiling of temperature, tension force is 0.25mpa, gets damp again, 13.5%, slurry is an acrylic size.

All the other steps are identical with embodiment 1, repeat no more.

Embodiment 3:

In the present embodiment, the staining procedure of step (2) is for carrying out pre-treatment-contaminate in 45 ℃ of following hot water wash-cold wash at normal temperatures-repeatedly, oxidation under 70 ℃, and its pH value be 11.3-pickling-washing-in 70 ℃ of following soft treatment-descend to dry at 100 ℃;

The starching step of step (3) is, warper beam unwinding-starching, and temperature is 70 ℃-wet leasing-oven dry, 90 ℃-dried leasing-coiling of temperature, tension force is 0.25mpa, gets damp again, 13.5%, slurry is an acrylic size.

All the other steps are identical with embodiment 1, repeat no more.

Among the present invention not detailed description be known technology, repeat no more.

Claims (5)

1. the processing method of a wool jean plus material is characterized in that:

Step (1) as raw material, will adopt the wool top of RESIN FINISH shrink-proof process processing as warp thread with shrinkproof wool top; The wool top of handling with the oxidation shrink-proof process is as weft yarn;

Step (2) adopts bipseudoindoxyl dye that warp thread is dyeed, staining procedure is for carrying out pre-treatment-contaminate and oxidation in 35-45 ℃ of following hot water wash-cold wash at normal temperatures-repeatedly under 50-70 ℃, its pH value be 11.2-11.3-pickling-washing-in 50-70 ℃ of following soft treatment-descend to dry at 80-100 ℃;

Step (3) is carried out starching to warp thread, and the starching step is, warper beam unwinding-starching, and temperature is 50-70 ℃-wet leasing-oven dry, temperature 80-90 ℃-dried leasing-coiling;

Step (4) is weaved denim;

Step (5) is carried out the back arrangement to wool jean cloth, and the arrangement process is that the decatize preshrunk-jar steaming-cropping of singing-skew-open width braying-open width crabbing-relax obtains the finished product wool jean plus material.

2. the processing method of wool jean plus material according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in the described step (1), heavy and improve wool yarn intensity and improve weavability for meeting the requirements of cloth, make a strand yarn after transferring wool top to single thread, warp thread and weft yarn all adopt a strand yarn.

3. the processing method of wool jean plus material according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in the described step (2), staining procedure is, adopt bipseudoindoxyl dye under 60 ℃, to carry out pre-treatment, and add 209 electrostatic agents: 5g/l, penetrant t S:2g/l, in 40 ℃ of following hot water wash-cold wash at normal temperatures-7 time dip-dye and oxidation continuously, its pH value is the 11.2-11.3-pickling, glacial acetic acid 10g/l, and the washing twice-in 60 ℃ of following soft treatment twice-oven dry under 100 ℃; 209 electrostatic agents are pressed in use: add 15 kilograms of electrostatic agent consumptions in 3000 premium on currency and use; Bleeding agent uses by adding 6 kilograms of bleeding agent consumptions in 3000 premium on currency; Glacial acetic acid adds 10.8 kg of ice acetic acid consumptions by 2700 premium on currency to be used.

4. the processing method of wool jean plus material according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in the described step (3), the starching process is, warper beam unwinding-starching, temperature is 65 ℃-wet leasing-oven dry, and temperature 80-90 ℃-dried leasing-coiling, tension force is 0.25mpa, moisture regain: 13.5%, slurry therewith is an acrylic size.

5. the processing method of wool jean plus material according to claim 1 is characterized in that: in the described step (4), when denim is weaved, adopt the weaving process of small tension receiving coil, big opening, 480 rev/mins of loom rotating speeds.