Cosmetics : Biological

Aspects

UNIT 2
BY
M R . D E EPA K S A R A N G I
 Definition & structure of skin

The human skin is the body's largest organ, serving as a

protective barrier between the internal organs and the
external environment. Skin plays a crucial role in
regulating body temperature, protecting against
harmful pathogens, and enabling sensation through
nerve endings. It also contributes to the synthesis of
Vitamin D when exposed to sunlight.
It consists of three main layers:
 Epidermis: The outermost layer, which provides a
waterproof barrier and creates skin tone.
 Dermis: Located beneath the epidermis, this layer
contains tough connective tissue, hair follicles, and
sweat glands.
 Hypodermis: The deeper subcutaneous tissue made of
Schematic diagram of skin
 Epidermis

The epidermis is the outer layer of the skin,

defined as a stratified squamous epithelium,
primarily comprising keratinocytes in
progressive stages of differentiation.
Keratinocytes produce the protein keratin and
are the major building blocks (cells) of the
epidermis.
The prime function of the epidermis is to act as
a physical and biological barrier to the external
environment, preventing penetration by
irritants and allergens.
At the same time, it prevents the loss of water
 Dermis

The dermis forms the inner layer of the skin and

is much thicker than the epidermis (1-5mm).
Situated between the basement membrane zone
and the subcutaneous layer, the primary role of
the dermis is to sustain and support the
epidermis. The main functions of the dermis are:
Protection;
Cushioning the deeper structures from
mechanical injury;
Providing nourishment to the epidermis;
Playing an important role in wound healing.
 Hypodermis

The hypodermis is the subcutaneous layer lying

below the dermis; it consists largely of fat.
It provides the main structural support for the
skin, as well as insulating the body from cold
and aiding shock absorption.
It is interlaced with blood vessels and nerves.
Dry skin, or xerosis, refers to skin that lacks
adequate moisture in its outer layer (the
stratum corneum), leading to symptoms such
as roughness, tightness, flakiness, and sometimes
itching or irritation. The skin becomes less
elastic and more prone to damage, like cracks or
fissures. In severe cases, it may result in
inflammation, scaling, and redness.
Stratum Corneum and Dry Skin: The stratum corneum is
the outermost part of the epidermis, consisting of dead skin
cells (corneocytes) embedded in a lipid matrix. This layer
serves as a barrier, preventing water loss and protecting the
body from external factors.
In dry skin, the stratum corneum is impaired, leading to:
 Increased Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL): The skin
loses water more quickly than it can be replenished, leading
to dehydration.
 Lipid Deficiency: A reduction in essential lipids (ceramides,
fatty acids, cholesterol) compromises the barrier function,
making it harder to retain moisture.
 Corneocyte Disruption: The shedding of dead skin cells is
disorganized, leading to flaking, rough texture, and scaliness.
 Structure of skin in acne
Acne is a common skin condition that occurs when hair follicles
(pores) become clogged with sebum (oil), dead skin cells, and
sometimes bacteria. This blockage leads to inflammation, resulting
in various types of lesions such as blackheads, whiteheads, pimples,
and, in more severe cases, nodules or cysts. Acne most commonly
affects areas with a high concentration of sebaceous (oil) glands,
such as the face, chest, and back.
Increased Sebum Production:
 Sebaceous glands, located in the dermis, produce sebum (oil) to
keep the skin lubricated. In acne, these glands become overactive
and produce excess sebum, often triggered by hormonal changes
(androgens).
Hyperkeratinization:
 The cells lining the inside of the hair follicle (keratinocytes) undergo
hyperkeratinization, where they overproduce keratin, a protein
that helps form the skin’s barrier. In acne, these cells stick together
and block the hair follicle, creating a plug known as a
microcomedone.
Bacterial Overgrowth:
The blocked follicle creates an ideal environment for the
growth of Cutibacterium acnes (formerly
Propionibacterium acnes), a bacterium normally found
on the skin. The bacteria break down sebum and release
substances that attract immune cells, leading to
inflammation.
Inflammation:
The body’s immune system responds to the bacterial
overgrowth, causing redness, swelling, and pain in the
surrounding skin. This leads to the formation of
inflamed acne lesions such as papules, pustules,
nodules, or cysts.
 Structure of skin in pigmentation

Pigmentation refers to the natural coloring of

the skin, hair, and eyes, determined by the
presence of melanin, the pigment produced
by melanocytes (specialized skin cells). When
the melanin production process is disrupted,
it can result in pigmentation disorders, where
the skin becomes either darker
(hyperpigmentation) or lighter
(hypopigmentation) in certain areas.
When pigmentation becomes uneven or excessive, it can result in
visible skin conditions such as hyperpigmentation (dark spots) or
hypopigmentation (lighter patches). These conditions occur due
to disruptions in melanin production and distribution.
A. Hyperpigmentation:
 This occurs when there is excess melanin production, leading to
darkened patches of skin. Common causes include:
 Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH):
After skin injuries or inflammation (e.g., acne, burns),
melanocytes become overactive and produce excess melanin.
This can result in dark spots or patches, especially in darker
skin tones.
 Melasma:
Melasma appears as dark, irregular patches, often caused by
hormonal changes (e.g., pregnancy, birth control pills) or sun
exposure. It typically affects areas exposed to sunlight, such as
 Hypopigmentation:
 This occurs when there is a loss of melanin or reduced
melanin production, leading to lighter patches of skin. Causes
include:
 Vitiligo:
Vitiligo is an autoimmune condition where melanocytes are
destroyed, leading to patches of skin that lose pigment and
turn white.
 Albinism:
A genetic condition where there is a complete or partial
absence of melanin production, affecting the skin, hair, and
eyes.
 Skin structure in Prickly heat

Prickly heat, also known as heat rash or

miliaria, is a skin condition that occurs when
sweat ducts become blocked, trapping sweat
beneath the skin. This results in red, itchy,
and sometimes small, blister-like rashes. The
condition is common in hot, humid climates
and usually occurs when sweat cannot
evaporate properly from the skin.
During prickly heat, this normal process is disrupted due to
blocked sweat ducts, causing several changes in the
structure of the skin:
 Sweat Gland Blockage: The main problem in prickly heat
is the blockage of the sweat ducts. These ducts can become
clogged by dead skin cells, bacteria, or excess sweat itself,
preventing sweat from reaching the surface.
 Trapped Sweat: As sweat is trapped beneath the skin, it
collects in the epidermis or even deeper in the dermis,
depending on the severity of the condition. The
accumulation of sweat leads to irritation and the formation
of small, red bumps or blisters on the skin’s surface.
 Inflammation: The blocked sweat ducts cause the skin to
become inflamed. This inflammation leads to the
characteristic symptoms of redness, itching, and a prickling
sensation.
 Skin structure in wrinkles

Skin wrinkles are folds, ridges, or creases

that form on the skin, typically as a result of
aging, environmental factors, and lifestyle
choices. Wrinkles are a natural part of the
aging process, but they can be exacerbated
by factors such as sun exposure, smoking,
and repeated facial expressions.
Decreased Collagen Production:
 Collagen is a protein that provides structure and support to the
skin. As we age, the production of collagen decreases, leading to
a loss of firmness and elasticity.
Reduced Elastin:
 Elastin is another crucial protein that helps skin return to its
original shape after stretching. Like collagen, elastin production
decreases with age, contributing to sagging and the formation of
wrinkles.
Thinning of the Epidermis:
 The epidermis becomes thinner over time, making wrinkles more
noticeable. This thinning is due to a decrease in cell turnover and
a reduction in the number of melanocytes and other key skin
cells.
Changes in the Dermis:
 The dermis may lose its structural integrity due to the breakdown
of collagen and elastin fibers, leading to a less resilient skin layer.
 Skin structure in Body odour

Body odour is a noticeable smell produced by

the body, primarily resulting from the
breakdown of sweat by bacteria on the skin's
surface. It can vary in intensity and character,
often depending on factors such as diet,
hygiene, hormonal changes, and overall
health. While sweating itself is odourless, the
interaction between sweat and skin bacteria
leads to the development of distinct odours.
Apocrine Glands: These glands are primarily
responsible for body odor. They are larger than
eccrine glands and are concentrated in areas where
hair follicles are present (like the armpits and groin).
Apocrine sweat is secreted into the hair follicle and is
rich in proteins and lipids that, when broken down by
bacteria, lead to strong odors.
Eccrine Glands: These glands are distributed widely
across the skin and are primarily responsible for
thermoregulation. Eccrine sweat is mainly composed
of water and electrolytes, and while it is less odorous,
it can contribute to body odor when mixed with skin
bacteria.