Embroidery is an art of decorating cloth with needlework using different types of threats to
create fascinating designs. Embroidery can also be defined as an art of using stitches as an
adorning feature by embellishing fabric or other material with designs, stitches in strands of
threads on yarn using a needle. Embroidery may also include other materials like pearls,
beads, sequins, etc. Embroidery is a craft of enhancing fabric with motifs, abstract design,
patterns. Embroidery varies according to its underlying foundation fabric and whether the
design is stitched on the top or through the base fabric.
Indian embroidery includes a wide variety of regional embroidery styles varying by different
regions and materials used. Embroidery is India’s persistent eloquent tradition. Every state
and region in India enjoys its own style. Needlework is not the only means of decorating the
fabric but the fabrics are also embellished by stories of the community, with motifs emerging
from natural surroundings, religious inscriptions, economic state, etc.
KANTHA EMBROIDERY
Kantha in Sanskrit means rags. It is a traditional artist Bengal which means Patched Cloth.
There are several mythologies associated with the origin of this art form. It was said that
in ancient times, the women used to pile up the layers of torn clothes and stitch them.
Lord Buddha is also associated with the origin of this art because Lord Buddha and his
disciples used thrown away rags to cover themselves. Kantha is a Sanskrit word meaning
throat and Lord Shiva has been named Nilakanth meaning blue throat and it is also
known as Throat Chakra.
This type of embroidery is done on discarded comments like layers of dhoti, sari stitched
together with simple running stitch in the white thread that provides protection from the
cold. The Muslin sari of Grey, black or white colors are the elegant and beautiful
illustration of Handloom Textiles are considered valuable by the women folk of Bengal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orKNfkJ7sV8
KANTHA EMBROIDERY
There are two categories of Kantha embroidery – in the first type, cotton
saris or dhotis are piled up on top of each other, quilted, and embroidered.
The other type used discarded cotton bedspreads and pictorial embroidery
was done with the Tussar Silk threads. Motifs used for this embroidery
include Lotus, Solar, Moon, Wheel, Swastik, Kalka, Tree Of Life. Kantha
embroidery is done on the old fabrics and the threads used for embroidery
are drawn from the colorful borders of the discarded saris main the white,
red, green, yellow, blue, and black in color. The stitches used in Kantha
embroidery are satin, loop, running, and darning stitch.
ACTIVITY
Identify any one fashion designer who presented his/her collection inspired
from Kantha embroidery.
Details of collection
Designs
Best part of their collection
PRACTICE TIME
PHULKARI
The term Phulkari is a Punjabi term is obtained from two words: ‘Phul’ and ‘Kari’
meaning ‘flower’ and ‘work’ and so the word Phulkari translates into ‘flower work’
or ‘floral work’. The Phulkari embroidery first began in Punjab in the 15th century
by the women of Punjab. It is the rural handmade embroidery tradition of Punjab
and is also known as the folk embroidery of Punjab. Even though Phulkari means
floral work, the designs in this embroidery comprised not only flowers but also
included various motifs and geometrical patterns and shapes. The Phulkari
embroidery is overall very bright, vibrant and it brings color to people’s lives. The
Phulkari embroidery is very popular worldwide.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULuPKBeo7uE
PHULKARI
The Phulkari not only includes flowers but also consists of
various motifs and geometrical designs, shapes, and
patterns. The Phulkari embroidery is done with the use of a
darn stitch on the wrong side of coarse cotton cloth known
as ‘khaddar’ with colored silken thread. This is the main
characteristic of this type of embroidery.
In earlier times, the phulkari style of embroidery was
restricted to only shawls and Odhani. But in today’s time,
this embroidery is done on large canvases like sarees and
chudidaar kameez. In this Phulkari embroidery, the stitch
used is the darning stitch which is the most important
stitch used here. Other stitches like the herringbone stitch,
buttonhole stitch, and running stitch are also used. These
stitches were used to create an unusual motif or to border
the khaddar.
ACTIVITY
Identify any one fashion designer who presented his/her collection inspired
from Phulkari embroidery.
Details of collection
Designs
Best part of their collection
PRACTICE TIME
QUIZ TIME
Which of the traditional textile motif is the basically means ‘throat’, is associated
with Lord Shiva?
A. Chikankari of Lucknow
B. Kantha of West Bengal
C. Pipli Applique Work
D. Rajasthani Embroidery
CHIKANKARI
From the land of Tehzeeb and Nazaquat, Lucknow, Chikankari is a
delicate and intricate embroidery style that is believed to have been
introduced by Nur Jehan, the wife of Mughal emperor Jahangir. While
the art flourished under the patronage of the Mughals, references to the
art have been found as early as the 3rd century BC with Megasthenes
mentioning the use of flowered muslins by Indians.
A chikan piece is created by block printing patterns on it. Craftsmen
then embroider stitches along the pattern, and the finished piece is later
washed to remove traces of the prints.
Traditionally, Chikankari began as a type of white-on-white
embroidery, but today the craft uses a variety of fabrics and colours.
From white thread embroidered on soothing pastels to coloured silk
threads, Chikankari has evolved into an art for those with a taste for the
finer things.
CHIKANKARI
The needlework of Chikan has about 32 different stitches which are used separately or in a
combination. The 6 basic stitches which make it unique are the Tepchi (back running stitch),
Bakhiya (double backstitch), Hool (eyelet), Zanzeera (chain stitch), Rahket (stem stitch) and
Banarasi. The Chikankari stitches fall mainly into two main categories - one having a flat surface
using a single thread, and the other making an embossed effect using as many as 12 threads.
In the Tepchi stitching technique, the embroidery resembles a woven effect on the fabric, with
small knots that create a pearl-like effect are called Phanda.
The application of Chikanwork embroidery increased multifold and embellished almost everything
that was exported - including muslin dresses, collars, table covers, runners, mats, napkins and tea
covers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEXuktYWafk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfih7PLvoow
ACTIVITY
Identify any one fashion designer who presented his/her collection inspired
from Chikankari embroidery.
Details of collection
Designs
Best part of their collection
PRACTICE TIME
QUIZ TIME
Which of the following is the correct definition of the ‘Motif’?
A. It refers to creative activity, such as painting, music, literature, and dance.
B. It refers to a design or figure that consists of recurring shapes or colours, as in
architecture or decoration.
C. It is visual art form such as painting or sculpture, producing works to be
appreciated primarily for their beauty or emotional power.
D. None of the above
KASUTI
Kasuti is world famous embroidery of Karnataka state earlier known as
Mysore state, the motifs and art us a part of women’s world.
Kasuti embroidery speaks about the people of Karnataka, their
traditions, customs and professions. It is said that Kasuti resembles the
embroidery of Austria, Hungary and Spain.
The word Kasuti comprised of ‘Kai’ means hand and ‘Suti’ is cotton
thread, i.e. Kasuti is handwork of cotton thread in Karnataka language.
Kasuti embroidery was famous in many places especially in the districts
of Bijapur, Dharwar, Belgaum, Miraj, Sangli and Jamkhandi. Kasuti has
not developed into a cottage industry but is only a handicraft and
pastime for women.
In olden days, it was a custom that the bride had to possess a black silk
sari, called chandrakali sari with Kasuti work done on it. The five
garments on which the embroidery is done are kunchi (bonnet and cape
combined), lenga (skirt), seragu (pallav of a sari), kusuba (bodice), and
kulai (bonnet).
KASUTI
Now Kasuti is done on clothes, sarees, pillow covers, door
curtains, table cloth and also on fabrics of any kind. Dharwar,
Hubli, Kalghatgi, Gadag and Mundargi are some of the places
where Kasuti is still done.
The colours mostly used for Kasuti are orange, green, purple
and red. The colour combination in these four colours is red,
orange and purple or red, green and orange. White is
predominant on a black and dark background.
Stitches used are the simplest and so minute that the effect of
the work is intricate and pretty. Four types of stitches are
used in Kasuti, namely Gavanti, Murgi, Negi, and Menthi. Some
have mixed stitches while others are worked in one stitch
only. Kasuti is done by counting the number of threads.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPH3MDtjxGc
ACTIVITY
Identify any one fashion designer who presented his/her collection inspired
from Kasuti embroidery.
Details of collection
Designs
Best part of their collection
PRACTICE TIME
QUIZ TIME
Which of the following art form is believed to be auspicious, a symbol of
happiness, prosperity and Suhag of a married woman?
A. Phulkari of Punjab
B. Bagh Kashidakari
C. Kashida
D. Banni and Heer Bharat
CHAMBA RUMAL
Chamba embroidery designs were based on nature, mythology,
articles of everyday use and happenings of everyday life, animals,
birds and trees etc and geometrical designs are also very popular.
Literally, the word ‘chamba rumal’ refers to an unconventional
form of visual art achieved by beautiful embroidery created on a
hand spun cloth using an untwisted silken thread which seeks its
roots in pahari (mountain) paintings. Practiced in regions of
Himachal Pradesh and Jammu, this intricate yet traditional form
of pictorial embroidery remained the essence of pahari culture
and the epitome of their tradition. The term derived from the
Persian word Rumal which means a handkerchief.
Gifting embroidered rumals at a girl’s wedding was customary in
the hills and valleys of Himachal Pradesh. The most common
subjects used as inspirations for the embroidery were wedding
scenes.
CHAMBA RUMAL
People of every class produced these rumals and hung them
proudly across their shoulders. Those belonging to the elite
classes preferred more intricate, complex and beautiful designs.
Chamba embroidery in done in shawls and quilts, therefore, it is
recommended to dry clean the Chamba rumal and its products
and keep it away from harsh sunlight which might damage its
silken threads.
Khaddar, which is basically a rough, and hand woven cotton,
and malmal, also known as fine muslin, were the fabrics used in
creating Chamba rumal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COanQzrUo9Y
ACTIVITY
Identify any one fashion designer who presented his/her collection inspired
from Chamba Rumal embroidery.
Details of collection
Designs
Best part of their collection
PRACTICE TIME
QUIZ TIME
Which of the traditional textile motif is related to the French knot open work and
Herringbone stitch techniques?
A. Chikankari of Lucknow
B. Kantha of West Bengal
C. Pipli Applique Work
D. Rajasthani Embroidery
Kasida
The land of Kashmir etched its beautiful essence in
the form of Kashida embroidery into the fashion
world way back in the Mughal period which
was patronised by the emperors and the royals of
that era. However if we go further up along the
paths of historical archives of fashion, it can be
found that this embroidery was also creatively
initiated by the residents of Srinagar. Intrinsic
needlework and quality was webbed into the nest
maze of creativity and innovation using a wide
spread of colours and patterns which intertwined
the mood and spirits of the craftsmen with the
essence of the pure nature, and that too through the
traditional form of embroidery which involved the
role of one or two styles of embroidery stitching.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLFeV_5JzAo
Kasida
The motifs were mainly taken from nature; animal and human gures were
not seen in this embroidery. Bird motifs were seen on the shawls (like
parrot, woodpeckers and kingshers). Floral motifs like lily, lotus, iris,
saffron ower and tulips were mostly seen on the shawls. Other designs like
grapes, cherries, almonds and apples were their favourites. The chinar leaf
is considered as an important motif.
Single stitch style is considered to be the signature style of Kashida
Embroidery. Besides there are many other stitches like satin stitch,
herringbone, stem stitch, chain stitch, knot stitch and many more which are
also creatively implemented. These stitches are however not executed more
than twice.
This embroidery is done on silk, coon and wool fabrics. Colourful fabrics
like white (sufed), green (zingari), purple (uder), blue (ferozi), yellow (zard)
and black (mushki). The threads used were wool, cotton and silk.
ACTIVITY
Identify any one fashion designer who presented his/her collection inspired
from Kasida embroidery.
Details of collection
Designs
Best part of their collection
PRACTICE TIME
QUIZ TIME
Which of the following is very popular art form of Himachal Pradesh?
A. Chamba Handkerchief
B. Banni and Heer Bharat
C. Kutch and Kathiawar Embroidery
D. Bagh Kashidakari
