FAST SYSTEM Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing
INTRODUTION
SiroFAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) is the recently developed integrated set of instruments and test methods for fabric objective measurement. It measures the mechanical and dimensional properties of fabric that can be used to predict performance in garment manufacture and the appearance of the garments in wear. It was developed in Australia by the CSIRO Division of Wool Technology. The system allows the prediction of fabric performance in garment manufacture and the appearance of the garment during wear. SiroFAST, is currently being used by fabric and garment manufacturers in many parts of the world in a wide variety of applications.
PROPERTIES OF FABRICS
The properties of fabrics can be loosely described as either functional or aesthetic. Functional properties relate to the failure (normally mechanical) of the fibers or yams that make up the fabric during use. Aesthetic properties are the most highly subjective and complex features of fabrics. They include appearance and handle, and involve visual or tactile aspects of the fabric, rather than simply the nature of fabric, yarns or fibers.
NEED FOR THE SYSTEM
The need for tests to predict or assess subjective aspects of fabric aesthetics has increased in recent years for three main reasons: 1. The trend towards light-weight clothing has resulted in the increased use of fabrics that are difficult to make-up and require new handling skills. The trend towards shorter seasons and the use of rapid systems (such as just-in-time manufacturing), have meant that the delivery of fabrics that are difficult to make-up will disrupt production schedules. For this reason it is even more important that garment makers are able to predict fabric performance. The increased use of automation in garment manufacture removes the opportunity for skilled operators to correct for difficult or variable fabrics.
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INSTRUMENTS
SiroFAST consists of three instruments and a test method: 1. 2. 3. 4. SiroFAST-1: compression meter that measures fabric thickness SiroFAST-2: bending meter that measures the fabric bending length SiroFAST-3: extension meter that measures fabric extensibility SiroFAST-4: a test procedure for measuring dimensional properties of fabric
The first three methods have purpose-designed instruments whereas the fourth method requires no specialized equipment.
SiroFAST-1
FAST- I gives a direct reading of fabric thickness over a range of loads with micrometer resolution. The fabric thickness is measured on 10cm2 area at two different pressures, first at 2gf/cm2 and then at 100gf/cm2 using the apparatus. This gives the measure of the thickness of the surface layer which is defined as the difference between these two values.
The measurements are normally made on the (conditioned) fabric and then repeated after the fabric has been relaxed in steam on an open Hoffman press for 30sec.
SiroFAST-2
FAST-2 measures the fabric bending length and its bending rigidity. The fabric bending length of the fabric is measured using an automated test method which uses a strip 5cm wide. The bending rigidity is calculated from the bending length and mass/unit area. Fabric with low bending rigidity may exhibit seam pucker and are prone to problems in cutting. They are difficult to manage on an automated production line and vice versa.
Bending rigidity = 9.8 x 10 MC(Nm) C = bending length M = mass per unit area
SiroFAST-3
FAST- 3 measures fabric extensibility at low loads.
The extensibility meter measures the extensibility of a fabric under three different loads (5, 20 and 100 Went of width). The loads are chosen to simulate the level of deformation the fabric is likely to undergo during garment manufacture.
SiroFAST-3 is also used to measure the bias extensibility of the fabric (at 45 to the warp direction) under a low load (5 g/cm width) to calculate shear rigidity. Formability is derived from measurements made using SiroFAST-3 in combination with data from SiroFAST-2. Formability =Bending Rigidity X (Extension (20 g/cm)-Extension (5 g/cm)) 14.7
EXTENSIBILITY METER
SiroFAST-4
FAST-4 is a quick test for measuring fabric dimensional stability, including both relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion. It is a modification of the conventional "wet-dry" test and can be completed under two hours. Another advantage of SiroFAST-4 is that the fabric does not require conditioning.
With SiroFAST-4 the fabric is dried in a convection oven at 105C and its dry dimensions measured. The fabric is then relaxed by wetting in water and its wet dimensions measured. Lastly, the fabric is dried again at 105C and its final dry dimensions are measured.
Schematic diagram of SiroFAST4 dimensional stability test
SAMPLING
SiroFAST-1,2,3 test samples are 150 mm X 50 mm. The tests are performed in the order SiroFAST-1, SiroFAST -2, SiroFAST-3. This avoids deformations that would affect later results. The SiroFAST manual recommends: 1. SiroFAST-1 Compression - 5 replicates 2. SiroFAST-2Bending-3warp and 3 weft replicates 3. SiroFAST-3 Extension - 3 warp, 3 weft, and 6 bias replicates (3 left-bias and 3 right-bias) 4. The samples are then steam released and the SiroFAST-1 tests repeated. The dimensional stability test 5. (SiroFAST-4) requires a separate sample (300 X 300 mm).
In practice, about half a metre of fabric at full width is required to carry out the whole range of tests and allow reasonable sampling across the piece. Results for about 6-10 fabrics can be obtained within one working day. The SiroFAST instruments are interfaced with a computer which does the data handling automatically.
Measurement of fabric properties using SiroFAST is a relatively simple process, but interpretation of the data more difficult. The SiroFAST system uses a control chart as an aid to interpreting the data. The fingerprint is formed by plotting properties of the fabric on the appropriate scales and then joining the points. Computer software is available that performs this task automatically. A wide range of information can be obtained from direct observation of the fingerprints position in relation to the 'grey zones' on the SiroFAST chart.
INTERPRETATION OF SiroFAST DATA
The grey zones on the chart indicate where potential problems can be anticipated in the manufacture of suits or structured jackets. The 'grey zones' on the SiroFAST chart are not intended for use only as 'accept or reject' zones. They should be used as indicators that forewarn the garment maker that problems can be anticipated and these problems should be considered in garment manufacture.
Fabric Design Producing fabric to specification Finishing In fabric manufacture & Finishing Optimisation of Finishing
Engineering Special Finishes Evaluation of Sample fabric Checking of bulk deliveries
Relaxation Shrinkage
In Garment Manufacture
Problem Soving
Hygral Expansion
Selection of fabric & trims Optimisation, Modification & Operations
Formability
Extensibility
Bending Rigidity
Shear Rigidity Surface thickness & Released surface thickness
FABRIC MANUFACTURE & FINISHING
Firstly, fabric manufacturers require a quality control system that can be used to ensure fabrics are to specification. Secondly, fabric designers need a system that will predict the performance of new fabrics in garment manufacture and the appearance of the garment after manufacture and in wear. Finally, fabric manufacturers require a tool that will optimise fabric design and finishing so that required properties can be engineered for each fabric, with a minimum number of operations and at minimum cast.
PRODUCING FABRIC TO SPECIFICATION
Fabric Design: The construction of a fabric on the loom (weave, cover factor, etc.) affects its final properties and ultimately its suitability for a particular use. Some Japanese companies have published information on the design criteria used to produce fabrics consistent with the requirements of apparel company engineers. Finishing: SiroFAST gives the finisher the tool by which the properties of the fabric can be monitored to ensure that they are 'on track' to meet the final specifications.
OPTIMIZATION OF FINISHING
Because of the critical position of finishers in fabric production, they are able to derive maximum benefit from SiroFAST. Finishers have used SiroFAST to:
o Optimise individual and sequences of processes o Ascertain the relevance of current practice o Evaluate new alternative finishing machinery o Evaluate new auxiliaries or chemical processes
ENGINEERING SPECIAL FINISHES
Autoclave pleating of wool fabrics require, an engineered balance of both relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion. The reason for this is found in the changes that occur in fabric dimensions in the autoclave..
Relaxation Shrinkage (required) = 1.0 + 0.33 X Hygral expansion
Without a reliable technique for measuring both components of dimensional stability (relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion), such as SiroFAST-4, engineering a pleating finish is impossible.
GARMENT MANUFACTURING
Evaluation of sample fabrics - Sample lengths can be evaluated for potential tailoring problems. Checking bulk deliveries - The properties of bulk deliveries, particularly the first bulk delivery, can either be monitored or checked against specification. Problem solving - SiroFAST can be used to locate the cause of fabric related difficulties in garment manufacture and garment appearance Planning modified manufacturing techniques
BUYING CONTROL AND FABRIC SPECIFICATION
SiroFAST is used by garment manufacturers to predict performance in garment manufacture and to compare the properties of incoming fabrics against specifications.
FABRIC PROPERTIES AND GARMENT DESIGN
SiroFAST's limits can be altered to recognize different requirements for different apparel, jackets, trousers and skins, which present different problems in manufacture and require different fabric properties.
For example, limns on trouser fabric that goes into a design with baggy legs, bras cut long seams and a gathered waist can be different to a lightweight, patterned fabric intended for a high quality structured jacket.
SELECTION OF INTERLININGS
It is important that there is a degree of compatibility between the shell fabric and interlining to prevent distortion of the fused panel during garment storage or wear. This is especially important when an interlining is fused with a shell fabric of a jacket (eg. lapels, chest area, pocket flaps, vents etc). If the difference in dimensional stability is too great then surface distortions or even delamination can occur.
The shear rigidity of both fabric and interlining has also been found to be important during fusing. If the shear rigidities are too low it can be difficult to maintain the desired shape of the panel during the fusing operation.
MODIFYING MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUES
There are a number of options available to garment makers in modifying their manufacturing techniques to deal with difficult fabrics. These are listed below: 1. Relaxation Shrinkage 2. Hygral expansion 3. Formability 4. Extensibility 5. Bending rigidity 6. Shear Rigidity 7. Surface Thickness and Released Surface Thickness
BENIFITS
1. System is simple to use, robust and gives a reliable prediction of performance. Time required for testing is short, hence SiroFAST is highly suitable for use by fabric and garment manufacturers. It can tell you how a fabric will perform in terms of compression, extension, bending, dimensional stability and pressing performance. Each test results known as a 'Fabric Fingerprint' - essentially a plotted chart - can be used for: fabric specifications developing new fabrics comparing fabric finishing routes assessing the stability of finished fabrics predicting tailoring performance and final garment appearance. 2.
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