Laboratory 2

Cosmetic Technology 2019

USACH

MANUFACTURE OF DEODORANTS AND ANTIPERSPIRANTS

Objectives of the practical work

Understand the process of making stick deodorants and antiperspirants.
Differentiate the mechanism of action of the cosmetic active ingredients used in manufacturing
deodorants and antiperspirants
Understand the function of cosmetic ingredients in the formulations of both products.

SWEATING

The smell of human skin is produced from the secretions of the sebaceous and sweat glands.
The first ones secrete sebum, which is mainly composed of cholesterol, palmitic acid, acid
stearic and the esters of these molecules. In general, tallow is fatty, solidifies on the surface.
cutaneous and is not a critical factor of skin odor. The second, the sweat glands, are
responsible for the sweating of our body, whose function is to regulate body temperature
dissipating heat through the evaporation of moisture from the surface of the skin. They also act with
other properties, eliminating the lactic acid that forms during muscle exercise and protecting
the skin of dryness.

It is estimated that there are about 2,380,000 sweat glands distributed throughout the body's surface.
There are two types of sweat glands: eccrine glands and apocrine glands.

Eccrine glands
These glands are responsible for the production of most of the sweat. They have a function
sensory and excretory and can be stimulated by thermal or emotional changes. They produce a
clear, colorless, and odorless liquid composed of 98-99% water and 1-2% compounds
inorganics, such as NaCl and traces of K ions+, Ca2+, Mg2+Fe3+and 2+
Cu Organic compounds
including lactic acid, citric acid, formic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, urea, and ammonia.
Axillary moisture mainly comes from eccrine secretion, which is why antiperspirants
they reduce the amount of sweat produced by the eccrine glands.

Apocrine glands
These glands are apparently a relic of the phylogenetic development of humans.
puberty, these glands begin to produce a milky and viscous fluid in special parts of the
body, especially in the axillary cavities. Unlike eccrine glands, the opening of the
apocrine gland is not on the body surface, but is apparently located in the follicles
hairy. The apocrine sweat that is excreted is odorless; however, its decomposition through action
The skin bacteria is responsible for the unpleasant smell characteristics of this sweat, which is
composed of water, proteins, carbohydrates, ammonium salts, lipids, cholesterol, and steroids. The
decomposition of the secretions of the sweat and sebaceous glands by the bacterial microflora
cutaneous, and also the decomposition of proteins on the skin surface, originate numerous
substances with a strong odor. This is the mixture that gives rise to the natural smell of human skin and in it
low molecular weight fatty acids (C4-C10) and macrocyclic systems, steroids.
lactones, etc.

ANTIPERSPIRANTS.
Antiperspirants are topically applied products designed to reduce underarm sweating.
by reducing the production of eccrine sweat. In the United States, these products are
regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and are considered OTC (over-the-counter) medications.
counter) due to affecting a part or function of the body (in this case, perspiration). The
Antiperspirants contain active ingredients that reduce perspiration by 20-50%, and in our country they are
considered cosmetic products.

The effectiveness of antiperspirants is based on the fact that aluminum or aluminum/zirconium salts form a
occlusive "plug" in the eccrine duct, limiting the amount of sweat production from the glands.
These compounds are astringent, that is, they have the ability to precipitate proteins, in this case,
proteins from the surface of the skin precipitate, temporarily closing the duct of the gland.
Components of antiperspirants: Various metal salts have astringent properties. Among
they include aluminum, zirconium, zinc, iron, chromium, lead, mercury, and other metals. They
they have made several attempts to find the most effective antiperspirants from these salts
metals, however, many have had to be discarded immediately for toxicity reasons and the
the field has mainly been reduced to aluminum, zirconium, and zinc salts. One of the
problems of inorganic aluminum salts is the acidity produced by the hydrolysis of its salts, which
which produces skin irritation and destruction of clothing. The complex aluminum salts
they reduce this problem a little, providing a not so high acidity (aluminum chlorohydroxide,
aluminum/zinc hydroxide/glycine). Active ingredients with pH values have also been developed.
higher using tamponing substances, which has decreased the destruction of the tissues of the
garments that come into direct contact with the antiperspirant. The chemical formula of these salts
tampons is Al2(OH)5Cl, which have a pH of 5-6.

Deodorants
Deodorants are topical products designed to reduce underarm odor. Both in the United States
as in our country they are considered cosmetic products, and they tend to be less irritating than the
antiperspirants. Their main effect is the reduction of armpit odor through the use of
compounds that mask odors and/or antimicrobial agents. The latter are the most commonly used and
acting by decreasing or inhibiting the bacterial proliferation responsible for decomposition of the
apocrine sweat.

Components of deodorants:
1) Odor masking agents: Fragrances are used to mask odors. They are usually used
between 0.2-1.5% and are designed to mix with body odor, acting as agents
maskers. The disadvantages are that the effect of the fragrance varies significantly between
individuals, depending on the person's skin type, their hygiene habits, and axillary odor
particular.

2) Odor neutralizers: C5-Cn fatty acids contribute to axillary odor, which is why they are used.
deodorants with sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO)3) to neutralize them. This asset, however, is not
stable for long periods in aqueous compositions.
3) 'odor traps' (Odor-Quenching): Zinc salts of ricinoleic acid do not have a
bacteriostatic or antiperspirant effect, but rather they strongly bind to amines, mercaptans, and to the
fatty acids of sweat. The ligand exchange reactions of ricinoleic acid by the
Molecules that cause odor are the most likely reason for their deodorant properties.

4) Esterase inhibitors:
Zinc glycinate: Its action is exerted by inhibiting exoenzymes of resident bacteria.
in the axillary area, resulting in a decrease in odor.
Triethyl citrate: The optimal pH for the development of odor caused by coryneform bacteria is
approximately 6, so changing the pH of the skin surface to a more acidic one should
decrease the activity of the bacterial esterases responsible for degrading apocrine sweat.
he proposed that triethyl citrate formed citric acid through an enzymatic process in the axillary region.
In 1991, it was demonstrated that the application of this active did not change the skin's pH, however, it still

They market deodorants containing this cosmetic ingredient.

5) Antimicrobial agents: These agents are the most widely used today as a strategy to
prevent axillary odor. Among them, ethanol is one of the most known for deodorants, which
It can be mixed with other ingredients to prolong the effect throughout the day, such as actives.
antiperspirants, fragrances, and other bacteriostatic agents.
Triclosan (2,4,40-Trichloro-20-Hydroxydiphenylether): This active ingredient has antimicrobial activity.
broad-spectrum against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, against mold and yeasts. The
the presence of triclosan in bars and roll-ons, at a concentration of 0.1 to 0.3%, causes a large
reduction of bacterial microflora compared to products without these active ingredients.

Cosmetic forms of deodorants and antiperspirants:

Bars:
Deodorant bars solidify with 6 - 8% sodium stearate. The deodorant agents and
The fragrance dissolves in a hydrophilic vehicle. There are usually two types that can be differentiated.
bars: bars made from ethanol and bars made from propylene glycol. The transparency of the
bar is usually achieved by the use of a high amount of polyols (e.g. glycerin), among the
such as clarifying agents like PPG-14 butyl ether, Cocamide DEA, Lauramide DEA and
Steareth-100.
It should be noted that the contraction of the bar can occur due to evaporation of the
alcohol. Bars made from propylene glycol tend to be more resistant to contraction, and the
solubilization of fragrances is usually easier.

Examples of deodorant stick formulations:

Dry deodorants or solid antiperspirants are synonymous with an application in which the
The cosmetic active is found in the form of a powder suspended in an oily silicone phase.
Stearyl alcohol is usually used as a solidifying agent and cyclomethicone to provide a
sensation of softness and increase the drying speed. Bars that leave a little can be obtained.
amount of residue when combining high and low melting point fats and volatile and non-volatile silicones
volatile. Also, absorbent agents are added to the formulation to facilitate its application.
product (e.g. talcum), emulsifiers that help in the removal of antiperspirant from the skin and moisturizers
(e.g. hydrogenated castor oil, mineral oil, isopropyl myristate).

Example of the formulation of an anhydrous antiperspirant stick:

Other cosmetic forms:
Aerosols: The spray products contain a solution of the antimicrobial active ingredient in a
ethanol and/or propylene glycol vehicle, mixed with a propellant. The difference with aerosols.
Antiperspirants have the active ingredients dissolved in them, and not in suspension like deodorants.
Aerosols leave a dry feeling on the skin because they correspond to formulations
anhydrous, where around 20-60% of the content reaches the skin when spraying. The
The most commonly used propellants are propane, butane, and isobutane.

o/w emulsions (creams or lotions)

Geles
Powders
 PRACTICAL WORK 2:
MANUFACTURE OF DEODORANTS AND ANTIPERSPIRANTS

In this practical work, different formulations corresponding to antiperspirant sticks will be made.
deodorants (2 bars per group). A deodorant formula (FI, FII, FIII or FIV) will be assigned to each group.

Preparation of 50 g of deodorant stick

Ingredients INCI* FI FII FIII FIV
Sodium stearate 3.5 6.5 3.5 3.5
Distilled water 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0
Glycerin 5.0 5.0 5.0 2.5
Propylene glycol c.s.p 50 c.s.p 50 c.s.p 50
Ethanol c.s.p 50
Triclosan 0.1 0,1 0,1
Perfume 4 drops 4 drops 4 drops 4 drops
find out the INCI of the ingredients

Procedure:
50 g of product will be prepared.

1. Weigh the flask.

2. Weigh all the ingredients of the deodorant, excluding the fragrance: sodium stearate, water, glycerin,
propylene glycol, triclosan or ethanol.
3. Heat the flask with the ingredients on the heating plate (70-80º C) until completely transparent.
Homogenize with the spatula gently.
4. Remove the flask from the plate.
5. Wait for the mixture to cool (around 60ºC) and add the perfume.
6. Immediately package (clean containers) and refrigerate for 20-30 minutes.
7. Carry out the corresponding quality controls: pH, hardness, wear, organoleptic characteristics.

2) Preparation of 50 g of antiperspirant stick

Ingredients INCI* FI (g)
ArlacelTM165 Glyceryl Stearate (And) PEG-100 Stearate 1.0
Stearyl alcohol 12.0
Aluminum chlorohydroxide 10.0
Talco 5.0
Cyclomethicone c.s.p 50
Perfume 4 drops
Find out the INCI of the ingredients

Procedure for FI:

50 g of product will be prepared.

1. Register the weight of the glass

2. Weigh the solids in the vial: Arlacel, stearyl alcohol, aluminum chlorohydroxide, and talc.
3. Heat the beaker on a hot plate to 70ºC. Stir with a rod to homogenize.
4. Remove the glass from the hot plate
5. Weigh the cyclomethicone in a beaker and add it to the previous mixture. Stir with a rod.
6. Wait for the mixture to cool down (60ºC) and add the perfume
7. Quickly package and refrigerate for 20-30 minutes.
8. Carry out the corresponding quality controls: hardness, wear, organoleptic characteristics.

Agenda report:
• Compare the results obtained in quality controls among the 4 groups: 4 formulations of
deodorants
• Compare the quality controls of your deodorant stick with the antiperspirant stick.
• Discuss the function of the ingredients in each formulation (cosmetic actives and ingredients)
common)

Find out (prior to the laboratory):

What is Arlacel?TM165 and what is its function in the antiperspirant stick?
How were deodorant sticks made in the past using stearic acid as a material?
first?
What advantages does using commercial sodium stearate provide and what functions does it have in the deodorant stick?