PA S T R Y BAKING C H O C O L AT E BREAD FROZEN

PASTRY ARTS ISSUE NO. 10 WINTER 2021

‘FortunA’
I T ’ S T I M E F O R A L I T T L E L U C K

The Expanding Dessert Box Business Vanilla’s Flavorful Fight to Survive The Pastry
Pivot Plant-Based Candy Flavor Pairing Gluten and Nut Free Desserts
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Contents
Features

18 96
18
Vincent Pilon
72
The story of a master chocolatier.

72
Vinesh Johny 86
A pastry pioneer in the making.

96
Kimberly Brock Brown
On rising through the ranks and
navigating tumultuous times.

86
‘Fortuna’
The recipe that will bring you luck in 2021.

Pastry Arts 3
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Contents

12 32 54 66

46 50
Trends
12
90
The Expanding Dessert Box Business

50
Vanilla’s Flavorful Fight to Survive

Columns
32
Business Bites: The Revenue Pivot 92 106
54
New & Notable: Latest Products, General
Equipment & Events
46
62 Turning Pro: Advice for the Next Generation
Chocolate Talk: Flavor Pairing
90
66 Plant-Based Candy by Jimmy MacMillan
Expert Tips: Five Pros Share High-Level Advice
106
92 The Latest Teacher Feature with Richard
Specialty Desserts: Gluten- and Nut-Free Dessert Coppedge Jr., CMB

Pastry Arts 5
PERFORMANCE.
A R T.
Contents
124
114
Recipes
110
Vanilla/Hazelnut/White Chocolate/Maple

132
by Yann Le Coz

114
Hazelnut, Vanilla-Apricot and Muscovado
by Alessandro Bartesaghi

120
The Baker’s Canadian Nun by Romain Dufour

124
Flowers by Michael Laiskonis

128
Lola by Gregory Doyen
140 144
132 Places
Plant-Based Chocolate Avocado Brownies +
Matcha by Anne Lanute 152
Blondery
136
Rich Multigrain Tart by Dr. Avin Thaliath 156
Hewn
140
Lovers’ Dessert by Leonardo di Carlo 160
Red Dessert Dive
144
Six-Layer Chocolate Hazelnut Tart 164
by Karla Marro Pumphouse Creamery

148 168
Raspberry Chocolate Crowns by Eric Bertoïa Cacao Chemistry

Pastry Arts 7
 Valrhona can’t wait to welcome you back to the newly reopened

L’École Valrhona Brooklyn

in spring 2021 with an exceptional lineup
of professional pastry classes!

Professional In-Person Course Schedule 2021

JUNE AUGUST OCTOBER
7–9 Artistic Chocolate 9–11 Plated Desserts & Petits 4–6 Panning & Chocolate
AS
S IN
Showpieces $1,200* Gâteaux $1,055* Snacks $1,10 0 *
RNIA Chef Stéphane Tréand
CL

ALIFO Chef Patrice Demers Chef Derek Poirier

C
TE

O
FFSI
17–18 Individual Seasonal 11–14 Creative Pâtisserie with
8–10 Framed Chocolate Desserts $900* AS
S IN
Pierre Hermé $5,200*
CE
CL

Bonbons $1,100* Chef Sarah Tibbetts FOR N

A Chef Pierre Hermé
TE

Chef Philippe Givre FFSI

23–25 Pastry by Ghaya F.
21–23 Summer Romance: Oliveira $1,200* 12–13 Pastry by Lincoln
AS Sugar Peonies & Branching
S IN Chef Ghaya F. Oliveira AS
S IN
Carson $1,000*
TTAN Cherry Blossoms $1,550* RNIA Chef Lincoln Carson
CL
CL

A SEPTEMBER O
N
MAO I
H 31–1 Molded Chocolate C A L IF
TE
TE

FFS Chef Ron Ben-Israel O

FFSI

Chef Guillaume Roesz

Bonbons $900*
Chef Guillaume Roesz 19–20 Luxury Pastries &
Hotel Amenities $1,000*
28–29 Travel Cakes $900* Chef Adam Thomas
Chef Guillaume Roesz
SEPTEMBER
Viennoiserie by Antonio
JULY
13–15
Bachour $1,200* NOVEMBER
Chef Antonio Bachour 1–3 Viennoiserie, Panettone
12–14 Gelato, Ice Cream, and & Tea Time $1,200*
Frozen Desserts $1,100* 21–22 Rethinking Ingredients &
Chef Oriol Balaguer
Chef Christophe Domange Pastry Trends $900*
Chef Sarah Tibbetts 15–17 Mindful & Modern
Signature Petits Gâteaux & Desserts $1,055*
19–21 28–30 ONE-SHOT Machine
Chef William Werner
Entremets by Karim Bourgi AS
S IN Bonbon Production $1,100*
$1,200* LO Chef Romain Grzelczyk
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BUFFA
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Chef Karim Bourgi O

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REGISTRATION Use the VALRHONA app or visit us.valrhona.com and click OUR CLASSES or email ecolebrooklyn@valrhona.com to learn more.

L ' É C O L E VA L R H O N A B R O O K LY N
222 Water Street • Brooklyn, New York 11201
718-522-7001 (ext. 120) • us.valrhona.com • ecolebrooklyn@valrhona.com • THE VALRHONA APP for iOS
 Pastry mArts
ag azin e
Advisory Board
Pastry Arts Magazine En-Ming Hsu
151 N. Maitland Ave #947511 En-Ming Hsu is a World Pastry Champion and
Maitland, FL 32751
Email: contact@pastryartsmag.com Chef Instructor at The French Pastry School. Hsu
Website: pastryartsmag.com has been acknowledged as a “Rising Star Chef,”
“Pastry Chef of the Year in America,” in addition to
EDITORIAL receiving a “Lifetime Achievement Award,” “Best
Pastry Chef in Chicago,” and “One of the Top 10
Editor-in-Chief
Pastry Chefs in America” by Pastry Art & Design and
Shawn Wenner
Chocolatier magazines.
Managing Editor
Tish Boyle
Jansen Chan
Staff Writers
Meryle Evans Jansen Chan is the former Director of Pastry
AnnMarie Mattila Operations at the International Culinary Center
(ICC), and founded Pastry Plus at ICC. He’s been
Contributors
featured in high-profile publications such as Food
Jimmy MacMillan, Richard Hawke, Genevieve Sawyer,
& Wine magazine, Art Culinaire, and Baking and
Donald Wressell, Amy Guittard, Leonardo Di Carlo,
Pastry: North America.
Yann Le Coz, Dr. Avin Thaliath, Anne Lanute,
Gregory Doyen, Michael Laiskonis, Romain Dufour,
Karla Marro, Eric Bertoïa, Alessandro Bartesaghi Kimberly Brock Brown
Cover Kimberly Brock Brown is a Certified Executive
Fortuna by Vinesh Johny Pastry Chef, Certified Culinary Administrator,
and was the first African-American female chef
CREATIVE inducted into the American Academy of Chefs.
She was a Founding Member of the ACF-National
Graphic Designer Pastry and Baking Guild, a Dale Carnegie graduate,
Rusdi Saleh
and has medaled in several chef competitions.
BUSINESS
President Melissa Coppel
Shawn Wenner Melissa Coppel attended The French Pastry School
Publisher and worked at Joel Robuchon at the Mansion, a
Jeff Dryfoos three-star Michelin restaurant, and ran the pastry
kitchen at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Las Vegas.
ADVERTISING She was named one of the “Top 10 Chocolatiers
in North America” by Dessert Professional Magazine
For advertising availability & rates, contact Jeff Dryfoos at and currently owns and operates The Melissa
SALES@PASTRYARTSMAG.COM
Coppel Chocolate and Pastry School in Las Vegas.

The opinions of columnists and contributors are their own.

Publication of their writing does not imply endorsement Miro Uskokovic
by Pastry Arts Magazine and/or Rennew Media, LLC. Miro Uskokovic is a graduate of the Culinary
Sources are considered reliable and information is verified Institute of America and is the Pastry Chef at
as much as possible, however, inaccuracies may occur and Gramercy Tavern. Chef Miro’s contemporary
readers should use the information at their own risk. Links American desserts are created out of a collection
embedded within the publication may be affiliate links,
which means Pastry Arts Magazine will earn a commission of personal memories and experiences, as well as
at no additional cost to our readers. No part of this international influence.
magazine may be reproduced in any fashion without the
expressed consent of Rennew Media, LLC. For advertising Ron Ben-Israel
information, letters to the editor, or submission inquiries,
please email: contact@pastryartsmag.com. Ron Ben-Israel is the owner of Ron Ben-Israel
Cakes. He’s been featured in countless books, TV
shows, films and publications, and was the host
Pastry Arts Magazine
Published by Rennew Media, LLC and judge for three seasons on the Food Network’s
© Copyright 2020, Rennew Media, LLC Sweet Genius, as well as a judge for three seasons
All Rights Reserved on Cake Wars.

Pastry Arts 9
EDITOR’S NOTE

O Editor’s Note
h 2021, I thought you’d never arrive! Of all the industries affected,
the restaurant and hospitality sector took the biggest beating,
and the immediate future remains uncertain. But I’m not going
to drone on about this “unprecedented” year, or relive an iota of
what happened. Instead, we are full steam ahead here at Pastry
Arts. And despite the onslaught of challenges, we had some really great things come

A
to fruition.t theNamely,
start of our
everyPastry Arts Virtual
year, roughly 40% ofSummit and Virtual
people officially makeBaking
New Summit.
To date, Year’s
we had over 22,000
resolutions, attendees
while the combined
rest typically – wow.
have some And not
particular goalonly that,
we also had in mind. Incredibly, only about 8% achieve their resolutions and our
incredible participation in our Pastry Industry Survey. All in all, a mission
of servingstaggering
pastry professionals
92% fail. and serious enthusiasts
Everything from starting is more refined than
a business, ever, and for
getting
that, we’re grateful.
in better shape, managing stress better, there’s a myriad of lifestyle changes
What’s
people on the horizon for 2021? Glad you asked! With close to 350 respondents to our
desire.
Pastry Industry
For you, Survey (and
I’m guessing even more
a primary goal isinsights gleaned
one of two from
things; our Pastry
launch Arts Facebook
a business
Group), we identified some exact challenges, constraints and
venture or grow one you’re currently running. Why else would you be reading desires from our community.
We realized people
Entrepreneurial Chef,were seeking
right? business
That said, building
if you information,
truly want to dominatenetworking with
this year as peers and
colleagues, opportunities to be challenged professionally (since
a food entrepreneur, I’d encourage you to focus explicitly on your thoughts, in-person competitions
were halted),
feelings and the listBecause
and behaviors. goes on.asBecause
they say,ofyour
this, thoughts
we are focusing
create our
yourresources
reality. on three
areas. First, we are laying the groundwork for the 2021 Pastry Arts Virtual Summit. Similar
In this issue, we connected with Chris Cosentino as our cover story and
to last year, we will have a keen focus on professional development, however, we will add
he proved that someone who gets in tune with their thoughts, feelings and
more business building topics as everyone, including us, realized the value of having a
behaviors can make massive positive changes both in their life and career. And
strong business acumen coming out of 2020. Second, we are creating an online event that
Cosentino gives an extremely raw account of his journey that will no doubt
will open your eyes to new and innovative ways pastry professionals have pivoted to not
leave you charge and inspired.
only survive, but thrive, during difficult times. And finally, we will be working with brand
Additionally,
partners inside
to create this issue, –
competitions we tackle upcoming
whether virtually ortrends,
in-personbranding, financial
– to bring back the spirit
management, employee relations, and connect with various food entrepreneurs
of challenge and competition amongst peers and colleagues. And that’s the playbook for
who shed lightof
the beginning on2021.
what Wemade arethem successful.
incredibly excited to serve our community even more in
theAs always,ahead.
months we hope you enjoy the latest issue and pick up some fresh ideas,
inspiration, and actionable advice.
Cheers to the New Year,
Cheers,

Shawn Wenner
Editor-in-Chief entrepreneurial chef 9

Pastry Arts 11
Trends

All You Need Is An Oven

The Expanding
Dessert Box
Business
By Meryle Evans

12 Pastry Arts
 I
n this singular stay-at-home era, dessert kits are a booming
business. Providing pre-measured ingredients for creative
seasonal-themed recipes, step-by-step instructions, and
optional equipment from Bundt pans to spatulas, the kits
are appealing to both novice and advanced home bakers, and
have become welcome gifts for subscription box aficionados.
From Apple Sharlotka to Moravian Sugar Cake, Man Crate
to Mochi Ice Cream, there are myriad options – simple or
sophisticated, subscription or single purchase, kits for kids, pets,
and vegans, even one for a single cookie. A majority of baking
box entrepreneurs helm mail-order operations, but bakeries and
dessert wholesalers are also offering kits to go, and partnerships
with retailers are adding another potential for profit.

Meal kits arrived on the culinary scene in space in Brooklyn that houses many food
2012, and it was one of the pioneers, Blue firms, Red Velvet has a full-time staff of 10 in
Apron, that inspired Agathe Assouline-Lichten the warehouse, and employs freelancers for
to adapt the concept for sweets. After several tasks like photography, customer service, and
post-college years marketing luxury goods, copy editing. For subscribers, about 50 percent
Agathe switched careers, heading to hotel of sales, Red Velvet ships a box a month
school in Lausanne, Switzerland. Back home nationwide with two recipes, designated easy,
in New York, she realized that her busy young moderate or advanced.
professional friends had small kitchens, few
utensils, and little time for grocery shopping.
“So,” she recalls, “I thought that if we make
baking easier and fun – for me it brings joy and
happiness – there is an opportunity to make
something from scratch that you can serve to
others...what if a box shows up at your door?”
Partnering with her sister, Arielle, a designer,
they launched Red Velvet in 2015, using their
own savings, “and I packed all of our boxes;
we hired one, then two employees and grew
from there.” Currently located in an industrial

Pastry Arts 13
 The kits – cookies, cupcakes, cakes, tarts, purveyors like Williams Sonoma and Fresh
desserts – usually include all ingredients Direct, and a potential deal is in the works with
except eggs, along with disposable tools like Netflix.
cupcake cups, parchment paper and piping Another pair of sisters, Jordan and Anouk
bags. Reasonably priced equipment such as Rondel, have been selling baking kits to Kiwis
springform and tart pans are optional add- for three years from their popular Auckland
ons. Some Red Velvet kits contain perishable New Zealand bakery, the Caker.
products – mascarpone in Tiramisu; buttermilk, Now they have set up shop in the United
butter and cream cheese in Red Velvet cupcakes, States with a stellar marketing affiliation, Urban
but, Agathe explains, “We’ve gotten very good Outfitters/Anthropologie. Since last fall, three of
at it over time; everything we ship goes in a foil the Caker kits, Lemon Strawberry Poppyseed,
bag or pouch and we know the temperature Matcha Cherry, and Flourless Dark Chocolate
needed and how long it has to travel.” While Gold Leaf, are selling in the retailer’s online
most of their recipes originate in house, others marketplace in the $25-and-under gift sections,
showcase local establishments. An eggnog and at the Caker’s own website. “We prefer
holiday cookie sandwich was adapted from the flavors to be suitable for all year round
the Brooklyn bakery Ovenly, and a brioche rather than seasonal,” says Jordan, a self-taught
bread pudding featured famed baker who founded the Caker a decade ago
Balthazar baguettes. and enlisted her lawyer sister in 2015 to help
There are also grow the business. Undaunted by the logistics
tie-ins with of staking out new territory in the middle of a
leading pandemic, the Rondels forged ahead to find
new suppliers, source ingredients, and locate
warehouses. Jordan Rondel is also selling custom
cakes for large events and anticipating opening a
bakery in Los Angeles.

14 Pastry Arts
 For bakeries already flourishing in the United
States, DIY kits are providing an additional source
of income during COVID-19. Aya Fukai, a James
Beard nominee and The Chicago Tribune’s ‘Pastry
Chef of the Year’ in 2018, had worked at several
of the city’s high-end establishments before
opening Aya Pastry, a chiefly wholesale operation
preparing desserts for some 40 hotels and
restaurants, with retail available on weekends.
Although the virus devastated her hospitality
portfolio, Aya, with a crew of two dozen bakers,
pastry cooks, dishwashers, managers and drivers,
has continued to service stores and cafes,
opened the bakery full time, and started offering
frozen pastries, cookies, pizza dough, and butter,
chocolate, and cheese croissants, to customers
to bake at home. “At the beginning,” Aya notes,
“people were so scared, and they wanted to have
something fresh, baking as needed.” Her pastries
are made and frozen the night before, assembled
in a kit with baking instructions and a parchment
pan liner, ready for pick up or delivery in the
greater Chicago area.

Pastry Arts 15
 In Milwaukee, Erica Elia and her staff of instructions, video tutorials, baking tips, surprise
25 at celebrated Classy Girl Cupcakes, the gifts, and detailed FAQs dealing with questions
retail and wholesale bakery she started in ranging from shipping costs to cancellation fees,
2009, developed both solo and subscription both common concerns for box makers.
kits for both pick up and local delivery during While website formats tend to be similar,
the pandemic. A brunch box includes a pound variations on a theme abound – from Mixbox’s
of local favorite Anodyne Coffee, a coffee traditional Moravian Sugar Cake to Fikabrod’s
mug, choice of cupcake batters like orange jars and packets of regional products like ghee to
Mimosa, buttercream frosting in a disposable make garlic naan. BakeEatLove promises surprise
piping bag, and flavor coordinated toppings. bonus kitchen tools; FreshBakedCookieCrate
Although Classy Girl’s Cupcake kits are includes top brands like Valrhona chocolate;
pandemic-centric, the baking box business Foodsters stresses junk-free ingredients and
has been rapidly expanding over the past recipes with less sugar; Baketivity offers recipes
three years. The inclusive subscription and activities for kids. Whatever the selection, as
platform Cratejoy hosts many sites with a Aya Fukai concludes, “It’s very special to be able
format that typically includes precise recipe to eat something that is fresh out of the oven.”

16 Pastry Arts
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Profile

Vincent
Pilon The Story of a Master Chocolatier

By Tish Boyle

18 Pastry Arts
K
nown as one of the finest chocolate artists in the
United States today, Vincent Pilon was raised in
Paris and began his culinary training at L’école Jean
Ferrandi, widely regarded as the leading pastry
school in France. He then went on to hone his
chocolate skills at L’école de Paris des Métiers de
la Table, where he discovered a genuine passion
and technical aptitude for chocolate work. He first came to the U.S.
after landing a position at G. Joël Bellouet’s Le Palais du Chocolat in
Washington, D.C., but for various reasons, didn’t take to his new job
and home, and returned to France somewhat despondently. But Chef
Bellouet convinced him to give the U.S. another shot, and Pilon returned,
this time to work for François Payard at Payard Patisserie & Bistro in New
York City. Happily, Pilon adapted well to his new job and life in New York,
and he has made his home in the U.S. ever since. Many years later, he is
now the Executive Pastry Chef at the Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, where
for the past seven years he has employed his detail-oriented approach
to elevate the guest experience and V.I.P program. Chef Pilon connected
with us recently to reflect on his background, career and the challenges
of being a pastry chef in the age of COVID-19.

Pastry Arts 19
 wants to do pastry, so that’s what he’ll do.” And
The Q&A that was it, I was 16, and my choice was made.

Did you do an apprenticeship?

How did you first become interested in
pastry? Yes, I studied pastry at L’ecole Jean Ferrandi,
and we had a schedule where we studied at
Well, I grew up in Paris and my grandmother school for one week and then worked at a
used to bake at home a lot around us kids. I pastry shop for the next two weeks. And this
remember my sister, my cousins and I fighting continued – one week at school, two weeks
just to lick the bowl. Those were always good working in a shop; we also worked every
memories. And then one day when I was seven holiday and vacation at the shop. We made a
years old, I announced to my parents, “That’s little bit of money, but at the same time it was
what I want to do for a living. I want to be a a great experience, because we learned theory
pastry chef.” In France, when you’re 16 you have and pastry technique from school, and then we
to make a choice about continuing your studies got practical, hands-on experience at the shop.
— if you’re good with history, or mathematics,
or writing or whatever, you choose your Is that when you realized you loved
specialty. I didn’t want to do that – I wanted to
working with chocolate?
go to pastry school. And my teacher called my
parents and told them that I should keep going Yes, during my pastry internship we did
to school because I was doing well. And my dad everything: pastry, chocolate, confectionery,
said, “Well, if he wants to be a pastry chef, that’s bread, ice cream – everything. But when we
what he’ll do, and if he wants to be a garbage did chocolate, I remember it was really hard for
man he’ll be a garbage man. Thankfully, he everybody else, but for some reason it came
easily to me. So, I thought, well, maybe instead
of getting a job right after graduation, maybe
I can do another year just to learn chocolate
only. And I loved this idea, because you know
in pastry you have to get up very early in the
morning so that everything – the viennoiserie,
etc. – is ready for breakfast. So, you work in the
middle of the night or very early in the morning
and then you have to work on Christmas and
all the holidays. Chocolate was much easier;
you don’t get up at four o’clock in the morning
so that your chocolates are ready when you
open the store, right? And then you prep for
the Christmas rush around October, so by
Christmastime everything is already made. So
I was able to have time with my family, I was
making the same money as I would have doing
pastry, but I had a better schedule and life. So,
I decided to study chocolate for a year. And I
loved it even more than pastry – I loved it so
much that it became my specialty.

20 Pastry Arts
And what drew you to chocolate in vacations. But when I turned 18 I had to go into
particular? the army, because it was mandatory back then.
They sent me to the paratroopers, so then I had
It was the technical precision along with the to leave my life, the cocoon where I grew up,
creativity and the artistry. Back in those days and all of a sudden I was thrown in the army
– I’m talking about the early 1990s – we didn’t with people yelling in my face, making me do
have silicone molds and all these other tools. all kinds of crazy stuff – jumping from airplanes
It was all done by hand, and I was amazed and all that. But going into the army made me
by what some pastry chefs were able to do go from a boy to a man; I learned a lot about
with chocolate. And then I was working at a myself, how far I could go. Not just physically,
chocolate shop and suddenly my boss had to but mentally, especially. And so, when I came
be hospitalized. At that time I was really green back from the army I now was 19, and then my
and I didn’t know much. And all of a sudden sister moved out of the house, and then it was
there were all these people looking at me like, just me living with my parents and I said, ‘I can’t
“What are we going to do?” And so I was on the live here with my parents – I’m going to be a
phone with the chef and he was telling me how loser.’ So I worked in Paris for a little bit and
to temper the chocolate, how to do this, how to then I decided I wanted to travel the world. So,
do that, how to make the ganache, how to cut I went to an agency that places people all over
it. And he was gone for a month and half, and the world, and they had an opportunity for me
when he came back I was running the show. to work at a shop in Washington, D.C. And I
It made me grow so fast in such a short period came home and I said, “All right, I’m leaving.”
of time. Because it turned out that I would be working
for Joel Bellouet. The shop was Le Palais du
What was your next big career move? Chocolat, but I was going to be doing pastry
production, not chocolate. It was tough – I
Well, I never saw myself living anywhere else got there and I literally spoke no English and
other than in France, and I never saw myself I didn’t even have a visa. After three months, I
being a chef actually – I thought I would be hated it. I wanted to learn English, but nobody
a chocolatier. You see, I come from a family in the kitchen spoke English. I was by myself, it
where family comes first. I wasn’t ambitious – was just a very hard time. So, I moved back to
my only ambition was to get a job and get a Paris and I worked there, and then after a while
paycheck and then enjoy my weekends and my I said, “I want to try again...”

Pastry Arts 21
 And how did you end up in
Las Vegas?
I went to see Mr. Bellouet and I told him I was
looking for a job, but not in Paris, more in the
South of France. And he said, “No, the future in
France is not good, you need to go to America.”
So he picked up the phone and he called his
friend François Payard in New York, and he said,
“Hey, how’s everything going?” And François
said, “Ok, but I’m looking for a chocolatier.”
It was crazy. And that was it, Payard sent me
a plane ticket and then I landed in New York
and I never went back to France. I worked at
Payard for a while and that’s where I met Jean-
Philippe Maury. One night Jean-Philippe called
me and all the Frenchies over there and he said,
“All right guys I just got a job offer in Las Vegas
and if you’re interested I’m looking for people,
I need all you guys to open the hotel because
it’s going to be big.” So, within three weeks we
got a visa and opened Bellagio in October ‘98.
And I remember I hated it because my first day
I worked 21 hours straight. And then the very
next day I went back for another 18 hours,
and then 16 hours every day for three months
straight, with no days off. I remember the first
day off I had, one day, I said, “Oh my God, what
am I going to do?” It’s like vacation you know? I
was thinking, okay, I have to do my laundry, and
I want to do this, I want to do that. But I just
went to bed and when I woke up, it was time to
go back to work. It was really tough. It was hard
because first, we didn’t speak much English,
and second, we’d only been working in small
shops, so we didn’t know much about hotels
and high-volume production like that. So, all of
a sudden you have to produce for room service,
and then banquets – I mean a crazy amount of
pastries, and we were completely unorganized.
So that’s the reason why it was so hard, not
because it was crazy, it’s just because we were
not organized. So, that’s how it was, but that’s
what brought me to Las Vegas.

22 Pastry Arts
I’m not looking
to hire somebody
that’s just looking
for a paycheck,
I’m looking to hire
someone that has
passion for what
they do.

Pastry Arts 23
 What was your next move?
In 2003 I went to work for Randy Sebastian at the Rio.
I try to do And then Randy left and Jim McNamara took his place
as Executive Pastry Chef. I felt I still wasn’t ready for that
as much job yet. At the Bellagio I was doing a lot of production and
difficult stuff, but I wasn’t a manager – I wasn’t managing
customized people, doing the schedule and ordering and things like that.
So Jim was fantastic, and I had a great relationship with him.
stuff as I can He was very, very smart, I was good on the floor, and he
and I were a great team. Everything was running smoothly,
for our guests the numbers were perfect, everything was perfect. And the
quality was going up and up, and we had a great team for
because it about three and a half years. And then Mandalay Bay called
me and they asked me if I was interested in the Executive
makes them Pastry Chef job, and that’s when I thought, “Ok, I’m ready.”
It’s interesting because at Bellagio it was more about the
feel special. quality and the artistry, while at the Rio it was more about
management. At Mandalay Bay it was about the volume.
And I had a great team there, mostly women, including Tina
Wilson and Kristina Lawson, and they were super smart,
super organized, the volume was massive, yet it was running
like a Swiss watch. It was so smooth. But after seven years
I was ready to downsize on quantity and focus more on
quality, and that’s when the Cosmopolitan called me. And
it was just the perfect size hotel, with a focus on quality, it
was just ideal for me. And so, I’ve been there now for almost
eight years.

24 Pastry Arts
As the Executive Pastry Chef at The
Cosmopolitan, you’re known for your
detail-oriented approach to guests.
Does this mean a lot of customization?
Yes, yes. I customize everything for the guests.
Of course, we have our regular stuff that we do
all the time, but we are always competing with
other hotels in one way or another. Let’s say
there’s a group that wants to do a convention,
so they’re going to do a tasting at Mandalay Bay,
they’re going to a tasting at the Cosmopolitan,
they’re going to do a tasting at Bellagio and at
the Wynn. And then they’re going to choose
which one is the best place, which one has the they say, “Well, Aaron Rogers from the Green
best price, and which one has the best price for Bay Packers is coming – can you customize
the quality. That’s when they call me and that’s an amenity for him?” So, that’s when I start
when they ask me to customize stuff for the thinking and making some items. And that’s
groups or individuals that are coming. I have a great because it really keeps me on top of my
laser engraver and a thermal forming machine, game. It’s funny, because I look at showpieces
which helps a lot. I customize chocolate bars that I did 10 years ago, even five years ago,
or I can write a message on the chocolate bar. I and I feel like as I grow older it gets better and
can put your logo on the bar. I try to do as much better. So, people ask me all the time, “Which
customized stuff as I can for our guests because one is your favorite showpiece? Which one is
it makes them feel special. Management usually your favorite dessert?” And I always say it’s the
asks me two or three days ahead of time and next one.

Pastry Arts 25
What are some of the challenges What do you look for in a potential
you face in your job? employee?
Actually, perfect example today: Kristina First, I’m looking at the demeanor and the passion
just sent me an email and she said, “Are of the person, especially the passion. I’m not
you making an amenity today for this looking to hire somebody that’s just looking for
person?” They emailed me yesterday a paycheck, I’m looking to hire someone that has
and there’s this guy who’s name is Steve passion for what they do. And it’s not always easy
Hutchinson and he used to be a guard in to see, because sometimes you have an interview
the NFL, for the Seahawks, the Vikings with someone and they are very well spoken, they
and the Titans. And he’s been inducted in tell you everything you want to hear. And you feel
the Hall of Fame, so he and his wife are like you’ve found a gem, you know? And then you
staying in the hotel until Friday, and I have see them on their first day of work and you’re like,
to do an amenity for him on that theme. “What???”
But it’s also their wedding anniversary, So, I’m not trying to hire somebody just for a
so I also have to do another amenity for body, I really want that person to tell me what they
them – there are variants there. do best, and I’m trying to let that person do what
It’s not always easy because sometimes they like to do best. Because if you’re good at cakes
they give you two or three days, but and wedding cakes, I’m not going to ask you to make
sometimes they call you the day before. croissants. But it’s important that everybody cross
And that’s not fun. train, so I want to know what they do best, and then
I want to know if they are willing to work in other
How many employees do you have stations just to learn a little bit of everything. If they
in the pastry department? are not comfortable with it and if they tell me, “I’d
rather not,” then they’ve lost me. But if somebody
We have about 35 people in normal times, tells me, “My passion is cakes but yeah, I would love
but because of COVID-19, right now we to learn chocolate, I would love to learn dough,”
only have 12. then I’m on board.

26 Pastry Arts
How has COVID-19 affected the hotel,
your staff and the workplace?
We live in a different world now. It’s affected
everybody, because Las Vegas lives because
of conventions, and right now there are no
conventions. It’s all tourism, so during the week
it’s pretty quiet and it picks up on Thursday,
Friday, Saturday and Sunday. We’re still doing
well, but nowhere near what we used to do.
And of course because it’s so much more quiet,
the pastry department went from 35 people
to 12 people. They’re like family, and then all
of a sudden you don’t see them anymore, but
they still have their bills to pay. You worry for
them, you almost feel guilty to have a job, you
know? But at the same time you feel blessed.
It’s a very strange feeling to explain, but I miss
everybody. I miss the craziness of the kitchen.
Now the kitchen is spotless, it’s quiet – it’s
depressing, almost.
There are a lot of steps you have to go
through jut to walk into the hotel. You have to
answer all these questions about COVID, and
then if you answer everything correctly, boom
– you get a star, walk in, and now they take
your temperature, and then you have to wear
your mask all day, so working in a kitchen with
a mask when it’s hot or right by the oven, for
example, it’s a nightmare. I mean it’s necessary,
we do what we have to do, but it’s difficult.

Pastry Arts 27
You’ve won many chocolate But to say you’re the best that’s one thing,
competitions, including the Food to prove it, that’s another. So, Jean-Philippe
Network Challenge ‘Chocolate Series’, competed, and he won the National Pastry
which you won in 2005, 2006, 2008, Team Championship, and he won the World
Pastry Team Championship. So, we worked a lot
2009. And I think the only reason
helping him for the competition and at the same
you didn’t compete in 2007 was time we were learning a lot. And then when he
because you won first place at the U.S. was done competing, then it was our turn. So,
Chocolate Masters that year. What he was coaching us a lot, he was helping us a
motivated you to compete, and what lot and then because we were at Bellagio, and
do you think are some of the keys to we’re talking about in the early 2000s, a time
your success? when the economy was amazing, the hotel had
so much. We had so many resources available
Originally I was motivated to compete because to us, just with the engineering department,
I was working at the Bellagio back then with so we wanted to compete, we competed, and
Jean-Philippe Maury, and there was a lot of we won these competitions. And then when I
competition within the shop. And back then left the Bellagio I realized that the brain was
there was such a gap between Bellagio and the really Jean-Philippe and I was the hands. But
rest of the properties on the Strip. We really when I was working without him and without
thought we were the best, the best of the best. the team, then all of a sudden I had to come up
with all these ideas. I had to start doing things
myself without somebody designing it for me,
and it wasn’t so great at first. And then I took
a piece that we did when I was at Bellagio and
then the next time I did the base of this one
with the top of this one, with the flower of this
one and I made it my own. And then slowly I
started looking around and getting ideas and
doing things on my own, but still with a big
influence from Jean-Philippe and everything
I learned from him. And then slowly I started
becoming my own and having my own style.
And then I competed and I started winning all
these competitions. So, one of the reasons to
compete is to prove myself how good I was.
And the other reason was to make my parents
proud, because I decided to leave France and
to make a career in the U.S., and I wanted to
prove to them that I did the right thing. And it
brought a lot of joy and pride to them.
Some people say, “These people, they do all
these competitions but they should be judged
on their work every day.” Well, that’s very true,
but at the same time I use the skills that I learn
by doing the competition in my every day work,
also.

28 Pastry Arts
I never feel like
I made it, or
I have arrived.
I’m just grateful
to be able to
do what I love
to do after all
these years,
every day.

Pastry Arts 29
Was there a defining moment in sudden you’re not good anymore, and by that
your career when it felt like you finally I mean because you’re too expensive. You’re
made it? expendable. So, no I never feel like I made it, or
I have arrived. I’m just grateful to be able to do
I’ve never had that feeling, actually. Because as what I love to do after all these years, every day.
you grow older, there’s a younger generation But I’m also able to balance work and my
coming up, and they keep pushing further life, which is very important for me. I have
and they’re doing new things all the time. So, surrounded myself with good people at work,
you always have to keep up with the trends. and they’re fantastic. I guarantee when I’m on
You know it doesn’t matter how good you are, vacation or when I’m on my days off, I know
eventually you want to slow down, you want that they take care of the business even better
to relax a little bit, and then there is that kid than when I’m there. You know, they don’t
that comes and is hungry and he’s talented, and want to disappoint me, they don’t want to
he’s way cheaper than you, and then all of a screw up. It’s a good feeling. And I don’t take
credit for anybody, so it’s never about me
it’s always about our department, it’s always
about the team. So, if the Executive Chef or
the CEO wants to reach out to me, sometimes
they reach out to me directly, sometimes they
reach out to my assistant Kristina, because
they know that she’s the one that takes care
of this thing. So, some people they like to have
hands on everything, they want to know about
everything and they want everything to go
through them, that’s how they feel like they
have a job security. Not me.

30 Pastry Arts
Speaking about those young,
ambitious chefs who come
along, posting their beautiful
dessert photos on Instagram
and lining up thousands
of followers – do you feel
pressured to do the same?
No, not at all. I love seeing what other
chefs are doing and I am inspired by
a lot of things I see on Instagram,
but that’s about it. My one goal is
that I want the people that employ
me to understand and recognize my
value. These are the people I work
for, and collecting followers or likes
on Instagram doesn’t pay my bills. I
do post some pictures on Instagram
of what I do at work, but I don’t go
out of my way to promote myself,
it’s not a priority.

Pastry Arts 31
Business Bites

Creating a New
Revenue Stream in
a COVID-19 World
In this edition of Business Bites, we asked dessert
entrepreneurs who successfully created new revenue
streams to share their experience and advice.

32 Pastry Arts
 so well I installed a second one right next to the
first – are refurbished 1998 Shoppertron 431’s.
Remember those vending machines, perhaps in
college, where you slide the door open to get a
sandwich or an apple? Now they sell Macarons!
These machines fit with the eclectic and fun
vibe of the restaurant. But these days people
expect everything to be digital. Needless to
say, some people just can not figure out how
to open the door, so there is a lot of instruction
involved. There is also the stigma of food from
a vending machine not being fresh. Once I tell
customers I have to stock the machine 2 to 5
times a day, they give it a try.
Cheryl Wakerhauser
Owner, Pix Pâtisserie What’s your advice for others
considering implementing this
pixpatisserie.com exact revenue model?
Place the machine off the street and in a well-
What new revenue stream did you lit, covered area, or indoors. Add other fun
create once COVID-19 hit? items besides your normal products to your
vending machine. We have Fauci face masks,
I introduced the Pix-O-Matic, a contactless vintage candies, goat noise makers, pocket
self-serve refrigerated vending machine, and constitutions, sourdough starter...anything
placed it right outside the front door of the you can think of that will make people smile.
restaurant. This business model allows me to Consider a digital vending machine instead of
sell our patisserie, macarons and some savory a refurbished version. And lastly, contact me.
items, plus random stuff to make people smile, I am happy to share my experience with you!
24 hours a day so I do not need to be here
to answer phones and hand out orders. The
busiest time for the Pix-O-Matic corresponds
to the busiest times when the restaurant was
open, 8PM to 11PM. We have sales at all
hours of the day. I really focused on creating an
experience. It’s not just a vending machine, but
a destination complete with music and disco
lights, a midnight to 4AM happy hour and photo
booth. The reception has been overwhelming,
and my net income is actually up by about 50%
from last year.

What were some of the biggest

challenges you faced when
implementing this change?
So the machines I chose – that’s right, working

Pastry Arts 33
 mission to share and to preserve Balkan culture
with authentic family recipes that have been
passed down through generations. We hand-
stretch our phyllo dough and use only premium
ingredients like European style butter and extra
virgin olive oil when stretching our dough.
Until COVID, we were selling our handmade
baked burek at outdoor pop-ups like the
Queens Night Market and Urbanspace markets
in New York, and through corporate catering
events. As those revenue streams came to a
halt, we pivoted to selling our bureks frozen
and ready to bake for people to enjoy at home.
We created our online store, www.balkanbites.
co/shop, and started shipping nationwide.

Ariana Malushi
Co-Founder and CEO,
Balkan Bites
balkanbites.co
What new revenue stream did you
create once COVID-19 hit?
We are a female-owned food business that
specializes in wholesome Southeast European
comfort foods such as Burek (boo-rek), a flaky,
phyllo pastry stuffed with savory and sweet
fillings. We are a small company with a big

34 Pastry Arts
 What were some of the biggest
challenges you faced when
implementing this change?
The most challenging part was figuring out how
to properly ship a frozen product (what packaging
to use, how much dry ice, which shipment service,
etc.). We had many packages get lost in the mail
or arrive late so that the contents thawed and we
had to refund customers. We made some very
suggest setting up an online store with either
expensive mistakes, but learned and adapted
Shopify or Squarespace, so that you have the
quickly. Along our shipping journey, we spoke to
option of sending automated order emails and
other frozen food brands that were shipping their
tracking information to customers. We use
products and they gave us some very helpful tips.
Shipstation to track orders and print mailing
After months of trial and error, we’re in a good
labels and it saves us so much time. We’d
place.
also recommend reaching out to customers
outside of the automated emails and getting
What’s your advice for others their feedback. We incentivize customers
considering implementing this to take a survey by giving them 10% off of
exact revenue model? their next order. We’ve also found that email
newsletters work really well to drive sales,
For others considering this model, we would especially with our pop-up customers.

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Pastry Arts 35
 maintain interest and keep things fresh. There
Lisa He is a technological aspect to moving into the
digital space, and understanding the ‘bare
Owner, Borderlands Bakery minimum’ needed to keep making progress is
important!
borderlandsbakery.com
What’s your advice for others
What new revenue stream did you considering implementing this exact
create once COVID-19 hit? revenue model?
I’ve been hosting live, interactive classes Develop an engaged audience – this is
on Chibo (cookwithchibo.com), where I can absolutely key for any business. Put your
authentically engage with my audience and authentic self forward, make real connections
monetize the content I’m creating. I’ve also and add value to someone’s life.
been doing pre-recorded, in-depth courses
to teach other creators and hobbyists. I’ve
focused my attention on more digital content,
pivoting into more affiliate marketing and
supplementary income, such as YouTube.

What were some of the biggest

challenges you faced when
implementing this change?
It was a challenge to learn what is realistic.
It’s important to understand how to develop
an audience that converts – ensure that you

36 Pastry Arts
Jacqueline Eng With the bakery falling into the category
of ‘essential business’, Partybus hit the ground
Owner, Partybus Bakeshop running, and immediately opened up an online
shopping platform so our neighbors and guests
partybusbakeshop.com could safely order their weekly bread and pick
up at a time that was safe and convenient for
them. We streamlined our baked goods menu
What new revenue stream did you and paired it down to basics, but we also added
create once COVID-19 hit? a whole category of goods that, nine months
in, are still a major source of revenue for us.
COVID-19 hit, and NYC and everyone had to The retail supply chain for flour, yeast, and
learn to adapt. As a small business owner, I many other staple baking ingredients became
couldn’t afford to ask myself IF we’d be able to scarce. Grocery stores were dealing with long
survive. Instead, I asked myself and my team lines and empty shelves, so we redistributed
HOW we would do it. In March, 2020, Partybus our own wholesale provisions to make them
Bakeshop still felt like a shiny new thing on the available to anyone in need.
Lower East Side – we’d only been open for
about three and a half months, and were still At one point we were bringing in double
unknown to most people outside of our tightly our usual weekly flour shipment just to fill
knit community. We adopted the mantra that dry goods orders, and we even hosted a few
‘saying NO just wasn’t an option’, so we’d have Instagram-live baking tutorials to help answer
to be nimble and creative. We’d have to be able questions in real time as our community
to fill whatever needs our customers had. We (like many others) joined the wave of home
wanted to be those ‘neighbors’ you can always bakers attempting cookies and sourdough
ask for a cup of sugar in a pinch, you know? and brioche at home for the first time. Each
week seemed to bring something new our
guests were looking for, so little by little our
menu of available items grew with that need.
We developed a ‘choose your own adventure’
at-home pizza making menu, including fresh
dough, our own in-house tomato sauce,
mozzarella and Sicilian olive oil, and even our
own house-made pesto.
I’m especially proud that we’ve even been
able to offer a dehydrated version of our own
sourdough starter for nationwide shipping,
including at-home feeding instructions and a
beginner baker’s guide to sourdough recipe.
And while this doesn’t exactly translate directly
to revenue, we also invited our local CSA to
use our front-of-house space as their pickup
location when their usual spot announced
they’d be closed for the season. Every Sunday
since July we’ve hosted the Grand Street CSA,
and in doing so we not only provided a revenue
stream for the farms involved, we’ve been able
to get to know dozens of new people from our
community on a personal level.

Pastry Arts 37
What were some of the biggest
challenges you faced when
implementing this change?
As a baker, the first thing I think about when I
go to work are the products I’m putting in the
oven, and what I think my guests will want to eat
that day. But with our pivot to bakery/grocery,
I’ve had to learn to think bigger. I had to stretch
the definition of what a bakery might be, and
in doing so I’ve created a more well-rounded
business model, and a more inclusive idea of
what role a business can play in a community.
The hardest part in adding all of these facets to
our business would be forecasting – basically
taking an educated guess on what guests might
be looking for next.

What’s your advice for others

considering implementing this exact
revenue model?
To anyone thinking of expanding their business
model, I say look around you. Talk to your
regulars, ask for their feedback. If there is a
need for something, fill it! No matter what
you’re selling, the key is communication. If your
guests feel they’re being heard, they will come
back time and again.

38 Pastry Arts
 each themed kit for pre-order on our website.
Customers purchased kits online, picked them
up at our studio at a specific appointment date
and time, and decorated their project at home,
at their leisure, following along with the video.
Once we knew that this was something our
customer base would support, we expanded
To Go Kits to include bake-at-home projects
and were even able to hold a cake decorating
contest, The Sugarplum Showdown.

Sharon Spatucci
Owner, Sugarplum Studio
sugarplumstudio.com
What new revenue stream did you
create once COVID-19 hit?
The mission of Sugarplum Studio is to provide
in-person, hands-on instructional pastry
arts instruction through cake baking and
decorating workshops. When we learned that
we’d have to close our doors to the public for
an unknown period of time, we utilized the
studio’s commercial kitchen to create Edible Art
To Go Kits, an at-home version of our in-studio
workshops. We included all of the components
for a cake, cupcake or cookie project, pre-baked
and ready to be assembled. For each project, we
published an instructional video to our YouTube
Channel and released a limited number of

Pastry Arts 39
 What were some of the biggest
challenges you faced when
implementing this change?
The biggest challenge was honestly not
being consumed by fear of the unknown.
Financially, we experienced a wave of gift
card redemptions, likely in fear that the studio
would close permanently, which did not help
cash flow at all. We made sure to reassure
our customers that we were doing everything
possible to remain open. In addition to putting
all of that creative energy into and figuring
out the logistics of our projects for at-home
decorating with minimal decorating tools, we
were dealing with having to cancel months
of upcoming private studio reservations and
public in-studio classes without being able to
provide an answer to when those events could
be rescheduled. In the end, it was critical that
our customers felt heard and appreciated, even
if we couldn’t provide definitive answers.

What’s your advice for others

considering implementing this exact
revenue model?
Living in the solution was critical to getting
through this. As the owner, I had to immediately
be open to doing something different. While
kits was not part of the plan for the business
at all, it really was the ideal short term solution.
Looking forward, the Edible Art To Go model
may even become a permanent option in
our studio offerings. In the end, making a
conscious decision to avoid comparing this
year to any previous year in terms of sales and
profits helped me to avoid feeling as though
the business was not thriving. This year, it was
about survival, and that was enough.

40 Pastry Arts
 Photo: Maggie Marguerite Studio

Ron Ben-Israel the hour. We quickly learned that would not

sustain us, so we decided to start shipping.
Founder, RBI Treats That’s when we set up a website on Shopify,
learned how to package and ship. We just had
rbitreats.com to jump in and learn as we went along.

What new revenue stream did you What were some of the biggest
create once COVID-19 hit? challenges you faced when
implementing this change?
In the first couple of months, I was dealing with
a lot of families who were all very confused. We The actual baking is very joyful, and when
kept postponing and postponing while people people are happy that is great, but the hardest
were trying to book us for later in the year. By thing was dealing with shipping. Most packages
June, when the only thing available to make do arrive, but some packages get delayed or
was small cakes, I had a great empty kitchen lost in the mail – especially during the election
full of supplies. I met with my colleague, Tom period – which is very costly for us. Instead
Smallwood, and we thought, “What are we of being in charge of a wedding cake from
going to do?” So, we came up with the idea beginning to end, I have to trust the shipper.
of RBI Treats (Ron Ben-Israel Treats). The idea Learning how to package properly, and getting
was that we would bake cookies ourselves and different supplies – small boxes, labels, etc. –
deliver them on city bikes that you can rent by was a challenge.

42 Pastry Arts
What’s your advice for others
considering implementing this
exact revenue model?
Take a deep breath. It’s doable, but there’s
a lot of competition now. There are a lot of
people who came up with alternatives early
on, both pastry chefs and companies. Some
companies who were very established in
retail just moved online, so they were not
starting from scratch. What I realized that
helps is having a bit of a reputation. A lot
of our customers for RBI Treats were past
wedding or special occasion clients who
wanted to support us and enjoy a treat at
the same time. That has been helpful for
us, not starting from scratch. I’m not sure if
any of our success would have happened if
we started from scratch. And finally, get a
partner. It’s nice to have someone to test the
goods and go back and forth with.
Photos: Andreas and Nico

Chef Tom Smallwood

Pastry Arts 43
 build our school online, we had to figure out
which platform had the right balance of cost,
features and scalability. As a result, we ended up
building test content on at least three different
platforms before homing in on the one we wanted
to license. Once we made the decision and went
“all in” on the license, the biggest challenge was
getting enough content ported, modified and
live to launch as a school – without looking like
it’s a one-class academy – while simultaneously
creating a destination site, and learning the ins
and outs of a brand-new platform. Whether
integrating payment portals, creating marketing
funnel pages, or finding and managing automatic
email messages generated by site interactions.
There were a lot of moments during this process
where I asked myself out loud, “am I a Chef, or a
tech end designer?” Turns out I’m a bit of both,
and you have to be if you want to pivot into a
successful online venture by your bootstraps.
And then there’s being an accountant. Because
our company teaches on another platform as
well (a separate revenue stream teaching kids),
Michelle Blaine in addition to launching our own, we created a
simple but robust formula-based spreadsheet
Managing Director and Chef to import and track everyone’s total earnings,
expenses and net payables. Not a mammoth
Instructor, Born Baker, LLC challenge, but one of those critical infrastructure
requirements you need to think about before
bornbaker.com selling anything.

What new revenue stream did you

create after COVID-19 hit?
I started a virtual baking and culinary school
for all ages. Our iteration was live classes. We
are primarily focused on larger groups and
team building.

What were some of the biggest

challenges you faced when
implementing this change?
There is a fine line between what you can afford
to pay for as a startup, what functionality you
need, and navigating the melee of choices.
Before we could take the time necessary to

44 Pastry Arts
 What’s your advice for others
considering implementing this
exact revenue model?
There are a lot of tools online that help you be
a better wearer of the hats that aren’t a toque.
For example, if you don’t have graphic design
learning, and some help from my friends and
skills but need to create something for yourself, family got us all the way there. I’m lucky enough
there are tools like Canva and BeFunky that to be a decent food photographer, have a nice
provide royalty free imagery, fonts, color camera (that occasionally doubles as a phone),
palettes and inspiration that can be harnessed and very clear ideas about how I want to see
to create consistent designs. You may not win my business aesthetically. Without that, I know
any awards, but your site and communications I could also use sites like fiverr and 99designs
won’t look like they were made in Microsoft to get the design help I need at a very low cost.
Word. Speaking of which, you don’t have to own It used to be there was no substitution for high
MS Office to operate either. We use Google quality design and programming talent, and
docs (sheets, slides, documents) for a variety while there’s still incredible value in both, there
of our business operations and collateral; are substitutions through tools, platforms and
whether the aforementioned spreadsheet or marketplaces that enable launching a new
creating downloadable recipes, inventories business or endeavor with minimal investment.
or checklists. For me personally, Canva Pro, I wish our next culinary educators luck and
Google Docs, a lot of searches, a lot of reading/ grace.

Chocolate
Morsels
naturally sweetened
with Allulose
Morsel
ingredients:
DAIRY
Chocolate Liquor, Allulose, Cocoa Butter

Powdered Allulose available

in many sizes, Langs Chocolates, LLC
including bulk
350 Pine Street, Williamsport, PA 17701
https://www.langschocolates.com/keystone-pantry/ 570-323-6320 www.langschocolates.com
Turning Pro

Advice for the Next Generation

We asked pastry professionals
to give us their best advice for
those who are thinking about
becoming a pastry pro.
Here’s what they said.

David Vidal
Sous Chef, Laholmen
Hotel, Strömstad,
Sweden
Go into this business because
you love to do it. It shouldn’t be
a job. Nowadays, I see students
and they want the ‘job’ of a
chef in the restaurant business
as a whole, not only pastry, and
it’s the wrong reason to come
into something. It shouldn’t
be for the money and the job.
It should be because you love
to do it. Because it’s a job that
takes a lot out of you, and there
are other things you can do as a
job to make better money.

46 Pastry Arts
 Elisa Strauss
Cake Designer and Owner,
Confetti Cakes
There are so many components to this business,
and everyone’s always impatient—especially
people getting right out of culinary or pastry school
– but I would say to go work for someone, even
if it’s for free, because you don’t know as much
as you think you know. Even if you have a great
product, really decide if you want to incorporate
that product into someone else’s business, or if you
want to run your own business. The least of what
I did in my business was cakes. My first website
had a picture of a dinosaur cake and one of my
aunts said, “Oh, aren’t you worried? You put the
step-by-step directions, aren’t you worried that
you’re giving it all away?” I turned to my aunt and
said, “If someone wants to sculpt a dinosaur, run
the business, deal with the employees, deal with
overhead and the crazy landlord, then more power
to them.” So, please, please do not be naïve if you
go into a business. It’s not all fruitcake.

Dana Herbert
Owner, Desserts by Dana,
Newark, Delaware
For the brave souls that are willing to climb
in the ring, if you’re able to, the best way right
now to get in is to offer yourself as an intern or
apprentice. You might have to go unpaid, but it’s
worth it to get the experience under your belt,
because no one can take that away from you.
Secondly, don’t be afraid to do the hard jobs. I
notice now as new pastry people are coming
into the workforce, especially in the cake world,
everybody wants to duck and dodge buttercream
and piping skills and jump right into the fondant
world. And for those people, I say tisk, tisk. Work
hard and diligently on the fundamentals, come
through the buttercream, work on your piping
skills, and that other stuff is just going to come
naturally. And make yourself indispensable.
Try not to pigeonhole yourself and be nice and
diverse to walk into a lot of different situations.

Pastry Arts 47
Caroline Schiff
Pastry Chef, Gage & Tollner,
Brooklyn, NY
Two things: don’t go to culinary school
unless that’s something that you really
want to do, you have the money for, and
you see as a kind of indulgent experience.
It’s just not necessary. Then find yourself
a mentor. Find a chef who you really click
with and who wants to teach you, work
with you, and help you get better, because
that person will be the most valuable thing
that you have in your career.

48 Pastry Arts
 Go beyond the magazine.

“Interviews filled with personality.”

EPISODES FEATURING JOANNE CHANG, KRISS HARVEY, RON BEN-ISRAEL,
EMILY LUCHETTI, JASON LICKER, JACQUY PFEIFFER & MORE.

Available on

pastryartsmag.com/podcast Pastry Arts 49

Trends

Vanilla’s
Flavorful Fight
to Survive
By AnnMarie Mattila

50 Pastry Arts
P
roducing high-quality vanilla is more difficult
than one might imagine, given it has been
a staple in kitchens for centuries. In recent
decades, the industry has suffered through crop
losses, inconsistent quality, and unsustainable pricing,
factors that threaten to destroy one of the most treasured
spices for pastry professionals around the world. But
thanks to the help of many capable hands, it is on the
journey back to greatness. From dedicated farmers to large
companies participating in sustainability efforts and finally
to the creative pastry chefs always craving something
better, good quality vanilla is back, and it is here to stay.

Pastry Arts 51
 making it increasingly difficult to stay in
business without the reliance on other crops.
Pricing has always been difficult for such
a luxury commodity because it is so labor
intensive. Vanilla flowers need to be pollinated
by hand in the short six-hour window each
one is in bloom. The resulting beans grow for
five months and then must be harvested by
hand and dried in the sun. This unpredictable
nine-month cycle cannot be cut short in any
way, for it leads to substandard quality. These
shortcuts are what contributed to the many
years of poor quality in the past few decades
in other regions of the world. Threats of theft
and pressures to produce more caused some
farmers to pick early or use inferior practices
or beans to meet increased demand, and the
vanilla industry suffered. Coupled with severe
weather conditions like cyclones that wiped
out entire crops, prices skyrocketed even for
inferior quality, making vanilla the second most
expensive spice in the world. Only saffron
On the remote French Polynesian island of could surpass it.
Taha’a, over 3,000 miles away from the coast of Across the world, many tireless efforts are
Australia, the dozen staff members at Vallée de underway to save the industry by focusing
la Vanille are hard at work. It is harvest season on the largest vanilla global production
for vanilla beans, and some thirty plantations location, the island of Madagascar. Vanilla
from around the island rely on these workers fragrans, or Bourbon vanilla, makes up about
to properly cure and export their vanilla bean eighty percent of the world market’s vanilla
crops each year. The island produces seventy each year. Organizations like the Sustainable
percent of vanilla tahitensis, or what is most Vanilla Initiative (SVI) are working to stabilize
commonly known as Tahitian vanilla. Many of the global market and maintain high quality
the farms on the island have been in families standards through sustainability efforts. “Our
for multiple generations and producing a top- biggest goal is to support farmer livelihoods,
quality product is of the utmost importance. so they get a consistent, decent income. And
Their tour guide, who simply goes by Brian, that’s when farmers can develop quality goods,
explains, “We don’t want to lose our reputation, when they can do it for a price that’s good for
because if you lose that, you can’t sell them.” them and good for the market,” explains Don
He goes on to explain that hand massaging Seville of the Sustainable Food Lab, partner
the beans each day as they dry out naturally in in SVI. The participating members seek to
the sun is the secret to a good quality Tahitian promote sustainability and traceability, as well
vanilla bean to preserve its elasticity and even as fair and safe labor practices in Madagascar,
distribution. as well as the expansion into Uganda. A diverse
But climate change and panic in the global global footprint helps stabilize the market, so if
market has threatened their very existence a natural disaster threatens one region, others
over the years, with drastic price fluctuations can help balance out the supply.

52 Pastry Arts
 While Ugandan vanilla strives to be an Back on Taha’a, where seventy percent of
alternative to Madagascar by using the same their crop is exported to France, Brian was
species, the inherent differences in terroir thrilled to recall a recent visit from The World’s
make it practically impossible to be identical. 50 Best Restaurants’ 2018 Best Pastry Chef
But turning what was thought to be negative award winner Cédric Grolet. Like Mason, he
into a positive, companies like Nielsen-Massey was in pursuit of inspiration and high-quality
who participate in the SVI, are touting the ingredients and left the island with several
benefits of the different flavor profiles. “The hundred kilos of vanilla beans on order. No
reaction from professional chefs has been very doubt when others hear this news, Brian and his
positive, as each origin offers its own distinct fellow islanders will stay in business for years to
flavor notes – allowing them to experiment come. Word of good quality travels fast.
with new flavor experiences,” explains Craig And despite the Covid-19 pandemic, industry
Nielsen, Vice President of Sustainability. Their insiders remain optimistic that the supply and
newer single-origin extracts from Uganda demand of vanilla will remain stable. The 2020
and Indonesia were introduced during a time crop was successful in the major growing
of increased interest in global flavors, making regions, and the SVI partners implemented
it a win-win for both chefs and sustainability safety protocols for the farm workers to protect
efforts. their health while harvesting. There was an
obvious shift on the supply side, as restaurants
Similarly, global scent giant Symrise has so
were forced to close. Thankfully, home baking
much faith in their participation in SVI and the skyrocketed, and many suppliers reconfigured
stabilized market that they have launched a new their packaging and online strategies as the
line of extracts under the brand vnlla Extract needs continued to change for both home
Co. “As home and professional chefs evolve, and professional use. “We have seen chefs
so must our ingredient options,” explains become increasingly creative in developing
Paul Graham, president of Symrise’s North new ventures, whether that’s small business or
America division. Touting new fans like chef food delivery,” notes Nielson. “We are starting
Sam Mason of Oddfellows in New York, vnlla to see demand pick up.” So, while everyone is
seeks to enhance their Bourbon vanilla extract trying to figure out their new normal, at least
by combining it with lemon, orange, and spice they can rest assured that vanilla will be ready
blends to offer unique new flavor combinations. and waiting for whatever the industry thinks
“The profiles are exciting, and they accentuate of next, thanks to the diligent, helpful hands
my creations beautifully,” Mason asserts. across the world.

Pastry Arts 53
New & Notable

Procusini 3D Food reliability in the daily workflow. Using a 3D

food printer has never been so easy. Since 3D
food printing is already used in the first private

Printer is Now households, professionals now have some

catching up to do. Our new Procusini brings

Fit for Pros

everything that professionals desire,” says
CEO Gerd Funk. The Procusini offers simple
operation, auto-calibration, a robust stainless-
steel cartridge, and comes with free access
to Procusini Club with numerous applications
for creating 3D objects and 1,000+ templates.
With Procusini 5.0, users also have the choice:
they can use their own food or the special
Procusini food refills from the manufacturer
with guaranteed success. In addition to
Procusini 3D Choco Dark and 3D Choco White,
these also include 3D Marzipan, 3D Fondant
and 3D Pasta. The Procusini comes with all the
necessary accessories and a starter pack with a
selection of Procusini 3D food refills, providing
everything you need for a quick start. Visit
www.procusini.com for more information.

During the development of the fifth product

generation of the Procusini, the manufacturer
Print2Taste has listened very carefully to
customers in the professional kitchen. “Our
customers demand simple operation and

54 Pastry Arts
A Good Bake
Before opening Sadelle’s, a bakery in the Soho section of New
York City, Melissa Weller worked as the head baker at some
of the best restaurants in the country (Babbo, Per Se), and
her chocolate babka and sticky buns are legendary. It’s no
surprise, then, that her first book, A Good Bake: The Art and
Science of Making Perfect Pastries, Cakes, Cookies, Pies, and
Breads at Home (Alfred A. Knopf, 2020; $40), written with
Carolynn Carreño, is an inspiration for bakers everywhere.
In this comprehensive guide to the hows and whys of
baking, Weller uses her scientific background as a former
chemical engineer to explain a variety of techniques, fine-
tuning the process with a detailed approach that allows
home bakers to feel confident, whether they’re making a
simple muffin or a more challenging pain au chocolat. The book includes a variety
of recipe categories, including cakes (i.e., Pumpkin Layer Cake with Salted Caramel Buttercream
and Brown Sugar Frosting), bakery classics (Milk Chocolate and Raspberry Blondies), Pastries
(Croissants and Salted Caramel Sticky Buns), and even savory offerings (Khachapuri with Cheese,
Baked Egg and Nigella Seeds). With beautiful photographs throughout, this book is a must-have for
any serious baker or pastry pro. Available from amazon.com.

Baking at the 20th Century Café

Michelle Polzine, the chef-owner of
the 20th Century Café, is one of San
Francisco’s best pastry chefs, and she
recently released her first book, Baking at the 20th
Century Café: Iconic European Desserts From Linzer Torte to
Honey Cake (Artisan Books, 2020; $35). In this advanced
baking book, Polzine pays homage to the revered tortes
and schnitten of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, putting
her own stylish, updated stamp on them. Here you’ll find
classic cakes such as Sacher Torte and Dobos Torta; fruit
desserts such as Rhubarb Tart with Sour Cherry Lekvar and
Streuselkuchen; creamy custards such as Coconut Bavarian
with Tangerine Granita and Basil Seeds; and cookies such
as Black Walnut and Buckwheat Russian Tea Cakes. Polzine
deciphers tricky techniques with meticulous instructions
and process photos and weaves her charm and humor
throughout the text. You will enjoy reading this book as
much as you will replicating her beautiful and flavorful
desserts. Available from amazon.com.

Pastry Arts 55
Mardi Gras
Madness
Chef Rubber has captured the
spirit and flavor of The Big Easy
in their new Mardi Gras transfer
sheets. Like a masquerade
costume for your chocolates,
these 11.75” x 15.75” sheets
provide just the right festive
touch, without a lot of fuss. For
more info, visit chefrubber.com.

Palazzolo’s Artisan Dairy

is Now SQF Certified
from a SQF level private label production facility.
C.E.O. Pete Palazzolo says, “No other dairy on
the planet is capable of giving its customers
exactly what they want. It’s a welcome addition
to everything else we offer, like product and
flavor development, costing, sourcing and
creating exclusive formulations.” Palazzolo’s
Artisan Dairy is a 50,000 sq. ft. facility utilizing
its own pasteurizer, homogenizer and bakery,
producing nearly 1,000 existing flavors of all
levels of artisan gelato and sorbetto, frozen
yogurt, ice cream, custard, milk shakes, sundae
After nearly a decade of private label co- cups, soft serve and low-fat soft serve, high
packing, Palazzolo’s Artisan Dairy has achieved protein, NSA and plant-based vegan options.
Safe Quality Food (SQF) certification for For more info, visit www.palazzolosdairy.com.
manufacturing in the categories of dairy food
processing, frozen desserts, gelato, sorbet and
soft-serve mix. Palazzolo’s is now capable of
custom contract manufacturing for retail brands
who can only entertain this level of food safety

56 Pastry Arts
 Sweet Inspirations
Pastry Chef Deden has been working at luxury
hotels for almost 30 years, leading his teams to
create pastry, bread, confections and amenities
at a very high level. He says, “My philosophy
over the years has always been to work for the
best: the best people, best bosses and best
companies. If you work for the best, it will make
you the best!” Recently named the Executive
Pastry Chef of the Pechanga Resort and Casino in
Temecula, CA, Chef Putra has also just released his first book.
Sweet Inspirations: Edible Holiday Art & Award-Winning Recipes from
a Master Hotel Pastry Chef (self-published) is a collection of recipes
for inspiring desserts, along with photos and descriptions of some
of Putra’s dazzling holiday showpieces. Recipes we can’t wait
to try include his Caramelized Fermented Cassava Cake; Warm
Chocolate Banana Cake; Pandan Panna Cotta; and Putra’s famous
Sea Salt Caramel Chocolate Tart. The book has beautiful photos
throughout, and is appropriate for serious baking enthusiasts as
well as pastry pros.

Note: 72%
dark chocolates
are dairy-free

Handcrafted
ready-to-fill
chocolates
(Single trays, cases, or pallets)
DAIRY
Langs Chocolates, LLC
www.langschocolates.com 350 Pine Street, Williamsport, PA 17701
email: info@langschocolates.com Telephone: 570-323-6320
TCHO Pro
TCHO, the pioneering craft chocolate maker chefs will come on board, creating a network
based in Berkeley, CA, recently launched a new of chocolate enthusiasts from across the food
initiative called TCHO Pro to spur innovation & beverage industry.
and create chocolate-centric recipes, video The first four chefs to join the program
tutorials and cross-promotional experiences attended a two-day virtual training in October,
with professional chefs. The program has where they took a deep dive into TCHO’s
enlisted a team of both rising stars and sourcing and production methods. The chefs
established chefs, selected by TCHO’s in- also tasted a variety of TCHO chocolate, from
house chocolate experts, to be TCHO Pros: 39% cacao to 99% cacao, to better understand
Ethel Koh of Ittoryu Gozu, Jessica Craig of how flavors change based on the origin and
Almond Restaurant, David Rodriguez of Büho percentage of cacao. The program was led
Bakery and Russell Jackson of Reverence. In by Brad Kintzer, chief chocolate maker for
the coming months, TCHO Pros will create TCHO Chocolate and the president of the Fine
video tutorials and recipes. In 2021, as the Chocolate Industry Association, and Laura
TCHO Pro program expands, a new ‘class’ of Sweitzer, TCHO Source program director.

58 Pastry Arts
 TCHO’s unique sustainability model,
called TCHO Source, is built on long-term
relationships between cacao farmers, cacao
scientists, and TCHO. Guided by the company’s
shared passion to grow the most delicious
cacao possible, TCHO invests in farmers by
gifting improved infrastructure, chocolate
making equipment and offering industry best
pricing for their cacao so that they can earn a
better living and consistently produce the best
beans year after year.
“Believe it or not, most cacao farmers have
never tasted chocolate before – even from
their own beans,” said Sweitzer. “With TCHO
Source, we are collaborating with farmers to
understand, from a deep technical perspective, The chefs who are participating in the
how what they do on the farm impacts the inaugural TCHO Pro program receive a
quality of their chocolate. In turn, we want to generous supply of TCHO chocolate with
educate the chefs who are buying chocolate which to experiment through the end of the
for their kitchens about the chocolate-making year. To learn more about TCHO or the TCHO
process and expand their creativity.” Pro program, visit www.tcho.com.

Romance on the Menu

Valentine’s Day is almost upon safe, and temperature resistant to 536˚F
us, and our friends at Kerekes (280˚C).
(bakedeco.com) have just the The Pavoni Pavocake ‘Passion’ mold (item
right Pavoni molds to help with #KE017) allows you to create a heart-shaped
you get in the mood to make some cake or dessert with artistic flair. With a
romantic desserts and chocolates: capacity of 20.3 oz (600 ml), the mold measures
The Pavoni ‘Beloved’ mold (item #KE049) 6ʺ (150 mm) x 5.5ʺ (140 mm) x 49 mm high.
allows you to create a Valentine’s Day cake The same ‘Passion’ design is also
or dessert with a dramatic presentation. The available in a smaller size (item
double heart mold is part of Pavoni’s Pavocake #PX4325) with 30 cavities, perfect
line of silicone baking pans and molds, for chocolates or mini desserts.
and has a capacity of 40.6 oz (1200 Each cavity has a capacity of 0.6
ml), measuring 9.5 ʺ (250 mm) x oz (18 ml) and measures 1.5ʺ (40
5.5ʺ (140 mm) x 2.3ʺ (60 mm) x 0.11ʺ(30 mm) x 0.78ʺ x
mm) high. These pans are 2ʺ (20 mm) high.
great for cakes, ice creams, For more information
jellied desserts and more, about, or to purchase these
and freezer, microwave, and other Valentine’s molds,
dishwasher and oven visit www.bakedeco.com.

Pastry Arts 59
 Langs Chocolate
New Retail Packaging
Langs Chocolates, LLC has released its sugar-free Dark Chocolate Morsels
made with Allulose in redesigned consumer packaging. The morsels were
made with Allulose to remove the negative tastes that many consumers
associate with either stevia or erythritol sweeteners. The Dark Chocolate
morsels are 72% cocoa and contain only three ingredients: chocolate
liquor, Allulose and cocoa butter. William Lang said “We offer the morsels
on our own website (www.langschocolates.com), Amazon.com and
Walmart.com. Plus, we offer 44-pound boxes for the commercial user. The morsels are dairy-free
and certified Kosher. The dark chocolate utilized in the morsels is our own unique recipe and is
made in our own facility. This same 72% cocoa chocolate is also used in our Trendz ™ Bars and in
our sugar-free truffles.” For more information, visit www.langschocolates.com

Sasa Demarle Enters

the World of 3D Design
As part of its development strategy, Sasa The acquisition is part of the company’s
Demarle is adding 3D design to its industrial constant approach to innovation, which for
know-how. The acquisition of the start-up 50 years has been designing and developing,
Mokaya, a specialist in custom-made pastry through its Flexipan, Sasa and Silpat brands,
molds, reaffirms the group’s innovative cooking materials that meet the sharp needs
strength. In the long term, Sasa Demarle intends of professionals and industrialists as well as
to become the group’s brand that champions expert and passionate consumers around the
ultra-personalized pastry tools to support chef world. Each year, the group’s research and
creativity. development teams initiate and deploy more
than 100 prototyping projects.
Created by aeronautical engineers in 2017,
the start-up Mokaya combines 3D design
and printing technologies with the know-
how of pastry chefs. Together, they create
ultra-personalized and exceptional pastry
molds. Pierre Hermé, Cédric Grolet, Michael
Bartocetti — nearly 150 chefs, including 30 of
the biggest names, have, since its inception,
asked the startup to unleash their creativity;
the possibilities offered by 3D molds are almost
limitless.

60 Pastry Arts
 Join the inner circle.

A community filled passionate

pastry and baking pros…

…just like you.

facebook.com/groups/pastryarts
Chocolate Talk

Flavor Pairing
By Donald Wressell and Amy Guittard

62 Pastry Arts Editorial sponsored by Guittard Chocolate Company

F
lavor pairing is not a new concept. the power of pairings. In so doing, taking this
Chefs and pastry chefs alike employ approach into account gives the pastry chef
it as a strategy to highlight and another set of tools from which to design an
heighten the impact of ingredients excellent experience for those delighting in a
in any dish. In the case of pastry and finished dessert.
confection, with chocolate as the hero, pairings But every chef has a different method to
can be employed as a tactic to elevate the discover flavors and put them to use. Below
effect of chocolate in any dessert or confection. is a deep dive into the theory and practice of
The theory and practice of doing so has the doing so.
potential to create exponential complementary
flavors. Much like color theory, or in a color In Theory
wheel, the flavor pairings can work together
Flavor pairing is simply matching foods that
to deliver a particular emotion and tasting
share the same flavor compounds together. It’s a
journey—however the chef desires. process that relies primarily on aroma and taste
Flavor pairings have impact not just on the – two of the five senses. It can be traditional or
actual physical tastes, but also in the potential expected pairings, but also unexpected ones.
to deliver diverse textures, temperatures Identifying primary flavors in any food will
and flavors that result in a multi-dimensional allow you to select complementary flavors that
sensorial experience, all delivered through can heighten the impact.

Finding the Right Match

The trees and plants: Kaffir

Lime, Satsuma Mandarin,
Lemon Verbena

By tasting our single origin

chocolates with these garden
ingredients, I found Peru paired
well and was able to create an
interesting pairing with Kaffir
and Verbena. Strawberry and
almond components completed
the tasting experience.

Pastry Arts 63
In Practice primary scents and tasting notes can lead you
The whole is greater than the sum of the toward particular complementary ones. Find
parts – when the right ingredient is paired the flavor associations you’re familiar with and
with the right chocolate, it can take desserts encourage yourself and your teams to translate
and confections to a whole new level. But your previous experiences to this medium. In
where do you get inspiration? Like all things, the same vein, think of unusual pairings that
inspiration can come from anything and might be relevant to the flavor notes that you’ve
everything—farmers’ markets, everyday identified. Exploring and discovering sources
ingredients in your spice cabinet, unusual of flavor pairings are key components to this
fruits, savory recipes—exploring ingredients exercise. The possibilities are all in the eye of the
you love and discovering new ones from beholder. Prior to making your final selections,
novel sources can inspire you to reinvent be sure to do a side-by-side smell and taste test
a chocolate so that it delivers a whole new with selected ingredients to validate and evolve
tasting experience. First identifying the your selections.

Temperature Texture

1%
4%
AMBIANT FROZEN 6%
20% 15%
8% 30%

16%

12%
CHILLED
65% 15%

FROZEN 30% MOUSSE

12% CREAMY
CHILLED
15% CREAMY FROZEN

AMBIANT 16% CAKEY

8% GEL

6% CRUNCHY

1% CHOCOLATE

4% FRESH FRUIT

64 Pastry Arts
 Flavors Flavor by Weight

6% 9%
7% 15%

13% 32%
10%

15%
5%

2% 23%
8%

12% 23%
8%
3%

15% Peru Mousse 32% Single Origin Peru

15% Peru Cremeux
23% Strawberry
2% Peru Garnish
12% Strawberry Sorbet 23% Kaffir
3% Strawberry Fresh
8% Strawberry Consomme 13% Almond

8% Kaffir Zest
9% Pixie Dust
5% Kaffir Juice
10% Kaffir Infusion
7% Almond Dacquose
6% Almond Coco Crumble

In Bonbons and Plated Desserts multiple layers, textures and temperatures can
be brought to life in unexpected, surprising and
Bonbons and other confections lend
themselves nicely to flavor pairings – the delightful ways. Chef Donald Wressell designed
compact delivery of flavor encourages finding this plated dessert specifically to showcase the
the right complementary flavors and textures potential in designing with pairings in mind, a
that can be delivered in a single bite. Plated true expression of the theory that the whole is
desserts offer a different sort of canvas, where greater than the sum of the parts.

Pastry Arts 65
Expert Tips

Five Tips
Five Experts
In our Expert Tips column, we connect with
five professionals in the categories we remain
focused on—pastry, chocolate, baking, bread,
frozen—to attain one high-level tip.

66 Pastry Arts
 Cakes
Elisa Strauss, Cake Designer
and Owner, Confetti Cakes

Sometimes pastry chefs and cake

designers feel the need to have lots
of tools and decorating equipment.
I personally love anything that
makes our job easier, but a regular
kitchen tool that I frequently
employ is a good old pastry tip.
Yes, it makes the perfect swirl on
cupcakes, a consistent border for
cakes and pipes out the exact size
for macarons. But did you know it
also makes the perfect “grommet”
on a handbag cake? Just make
sure to first put down a layer of
plastic wrap, and it will dome the
sugar dough for you! Get out a few
assorted tips, and they also make
the perfect eyes on your animal,
Kawaii or even human cake. Lastly,
when you are looking for a perfect
arch, eye brow, and your scalpel
(another beloved tool of mine) just
doesn’t cut it, a pastry tip can be just
the right tool in your bag.

Pastry Arts 67
 Frozen
Dan S. Basilio, Corporate Technical Chef, Global Pacific
Distribution Network Corporation, Pasig City, Philippines

When adding chunks of fruit to churned ice cream, remember

to cut the fruit in uniform pieces and macerate it in a little
sugar, honey or corn syrup for a short while first. A little
liqueur that goes well with the fruit is also a welcome addition.
This step will prevent the fruits from forming crystals and
turning into rock hard chunks upon freezing.

68 Pastry Arts
 Chocolate
Kee Ling Tong, Owner, Kee’s Chocolates,
New York, NY

One of the easiest ways to fix a separated

ganache is to add a tablespoon of heavy
cream, then stir for about 2 to 5 minutes.
The amount of time you need to stir will
depend on the amount of ganache and also
how separated the fat and chocolates are.
Keep in mind that the more cream you add,
the less intense the flavor of the ganache
will be. I like this fix, because it’s simple and
fast, and results in a smooth, homogeneous
ganache.

Pastry Arts 69
 Pastry Jim Hutchinson, Pastry Chef and Consultant

I believe that it is the fine details that define a finished

product. Although it may seem like a small tip, cold
steeping your herbs for ice creams, sorbets, syrups, etc.,
makes a huge difference in flavor. When adding your herbs
to a hot liquid, you have a great chance of evaporating
and/or degrading the essential oils in the herbs. If this
occurs, you will reduce or change the aroma and flavor of
the herb, making your product less than optimal. Steep
your herbs in your already chilled base for 12 hours. Keep
it tightly covered and refrigerated,
then strain and use as
intended. You will end up
with a base that is fresh,
aromatic, and flavorful.

70 Pastry Arts
Bread 5-minute rest period in between).
What begins as a coarse, shaggy
dough with little to no gluten
Peter Reinhart, Baking development, becomes
Instructor, Johnson & Wales smoother and firmer with each
University, Executive Director stretch and fold, starting with
of the Johnson & Wales the early stages of pressing and
International Symposium on stretching out the just kneaded
Bread and author of The Bread dough into a square or oblong
Baker’s Apprentice and Bread and then folding it back over itself
Revolution from all four directions, then flipping it
over and covering the dough with a bowl for
Stretching and folding bread dough on the a short rest. The oil keeps the dough from
work bench (or in a fermentation tub) has sticking to my hands and the bench and,
recently become a popular technique in the frankly, it just feels amazing, in a tactile sense,
artisan bread world, and my bread baking each time I pat the dough into a ball for the
life changed dramatically when I discovered next stretch and fold until, by the fourth cycle,
how oil is my friend when performing this not only has the gluten fully developed but
technique. I find it beneficial to coat the work the dough has become smooth and achieves
bench and my hands lightly with vegetable that legendary status known as “feeling like
or olive oil when working with a dough, a baby’s bottom.” Yes, I really mean it when I
especially a sticky dough like ciabatta or even say this technique has changed my life, and I
pizza and focaccia dough. It’s like magic, receive letters all the time from home bakers
watching the dough transform itself after each whom I’ve taught who confirm, in almost
stretch and fold cycle (I usually perform four the exact same words, “This technique is life
such stretch and fold cycles, with a short 3- to changing!”

Pastry Arts 71
Cover Story

Vinesh
Johny
The Makings
of a Pastry
Pioneer

By Tish Boyle

72 Pastry Arts
H
e co-founded India’s first pastry and baking academy
in Bangalore at the age of 24, a time when most
pastry chefs are lining up internships or honing their
skills by working at a succession of restaurants. Since
then, pastry chef and entrepreneur Vinesh Johny has
continued his quest to elevate his country’s pastry scene, a
mission that was validated when India scored a surprise silver
medal in the global WorldSkills competition in 2017. Chef Johny
has appeared on the first-ever ‘Forbes 30 Under 30 Asia’ list in
the Arts category, and was chosen by the Government of India
to be the Chief Expert for WorldSkills International, in charge
of the pastry part of the competition for the entire world. We
caught up with the 32-year-old pastry chef recently to talk
about how he came upon his vocation, the challenges he’s faced
along the way, and what the future might hold for him.

Pastry Arts 73
 The Q&A

What made you decide to pursue interested in beverages. I really enjoyed learning
a culinary education? all about wines, spirits and mixology. I even
did a few bartending gigs at cricket matches,
While I was not the most academically- fashion shows and clubs to make some extra
oriented student, I’ve always wanted to pursue pocket money. This was indeed a lot of fun,
something that is skill-based, something that while it lasted.
was more hands-on. As a child, I’ve always Eventually, I got busy with my internship.
loved being in the kitchen, helping out with I was put into a bakery by chance, and that’s
basic cutting and chopping. It was not until I when I found my real passion. I was like, “This is
met a friend who was attending culinary school, just so amazing, everything is so precise, there
who told me about the Hotel Management is nothing left to chance.” You can really pull off
program at Christ University. I absolutely loved a great recipe the first time, if you just follow
the sound of it and was so happy to have found the processes. I really enjoyed my time in the
a course that was perfect for me. And that’s bakery. In a matter of time, I was spending
how I ended up in culinary school. a lot of time in the bakery and made some
It was not just baking or cooking, it’s also amazing recipes. It was also super exciting
front office, housekeeping, food and beverage to see customers with a big smile when they
service and lots more. You’re shown all the saw and tasted our desserts. So, all of this
other things that are part of a hotel. As a matter culminated into me taking up bakery and pastry
of fact, for the first couple of years, I was very professionally in the year 2009.

74 Pastry Arts
India doesn’t have a strong cultural a lot more. And while I was looking out for
history of pastry, but you decided to schools to further enhance my studies, there
start a baking and pastry academy were none in India. The only option was to
either go to France or Australia. Although they
there eight years ago. How did you
were great programs, at the time they were
make it a success? very expensive for me. If you have to study in
Actually, the culture of Indian ‘mithai’ is France, it’s definitely going to cost you. And
absolutely incredible. There is just so much to honestly, I wasn’t prepared and didn’t have the
it, that I’m still trying to scratch the surface financial support to be able to do that.
to understand the depth of the entire Indian While there were some amazing Indian chefs
mithai sweets tradition. In a diverse and in hotels who were making good desserts, there
multifaceted country like India, every state was no professional program at all for students
and region have its own unique cultures, like me in the country. That’s when I realized
traditions, languages and cuisines. And each that we really need an amazing pastry school in
one of them have different forms of making India for students like me to learn how to make
mithais and desserts. We tend to generalize world-class pastries and desserts. So, that’s
Indian sweets to be just a couple of things how Lavonne happened. We were the very
that are more famous across the world, but first internationally recognized pastry school in
the reality is very different. India, back in 2012. Over the last eight years,
When I started doing bakery and pastry we’ve done some incredible things at Lavonne.
– which was much more French-oriented – More than anything, I’m glad we’ve laid the
during my college days, I got very interested foundation as pioneers of pastry education in
and wanted to pursue that further and learn the country.

More than
anything, I’m
glad we’ve laid
the foundation as
pioneers of pastry
education in
the country.

Pastry Arts 75
You spoke about your interest in don’t know exactly what the fat percentage of
traditional Indian sweets, mithai. Tell the cream is, or what the temperature of the
me about that. milk is. It just happens with sheer experience.
I was in Kolkata last week, and although I’ve
I think a lot of Indian sweets were originally had some of their traditional mithais so many
created in the royal homes of the Maharajas. times before, they are so different from what
So, a lot of the desserts were either milk-based you’d get here in Bangalore. Just texturally,
or nut-based and extremely rich. And to be so different. Even the sweetness level, the
honest, the level of sweetness in some of the freshness, the kind of sugars that they use,
mithais is a little bit off the charts. However, are completely different to what you get in the
the skills and techniques used in making Indian south of India.
sweets are extremely complex, and I’m so It’s extremely complex, which is why I’m
intrigued by them. Knowing the recipe is not tempted to explore these sweets in depth. But
enough. There’s a certain way of making them at the same time, I do know that it will take
that only happens through years of experience. me 10 to 12 years to master the craft. But I
Just by seeing the milk, they’ll know at what definitely want to understand it so that I can
point to stop cooking, by intuition. None of utilize the skills that I have from modern pastry,
that is written down or documented. So, you to see if those techniques can be standardized
alongside Indian mithais. If those recipes can
be made in any kitchen to the specification
where you can say, “You know what? Let’s cook
the milk to this temperature,” for example. In
a pastry kitchen, you are exposed to many
more types of sweeteners, such as dextrose,
trehalose, the invert sugars, and any of these
sugars will be replaced from the standard
sucrose that’s used in Indian sweets.

You named your school Lavonne

Academy of Baking Science and
Pastry Arts. What’s the significance of
‘Lavonne’?
Lavonne is a name that’s derived from the yew
tree. It’s a symbol of immortality, longevity
and regeneration. And we wanted to make
clear that we are providing students with an
education that’s creative and ever evolving.
You’re always learning something, and you
have to give it back. That’s the only way you
can keep growing. Right? As a matter of fact,
I’m also still learning. Every day I want to better
myself by seeking out and learning something
new. And every time we learn something new,
we immediately share that knowledge. And that
sincerely comes from the desire to immortalize
the science and art of baking and pastry.

76 Pastry Arts
 Every time we learn
something new, we
immediately share
that knowledge. And
that sincerely comes
from the desire to
immortalize the
science and art of
baking and pastry.

Pastry Arts 77
 called the ‘Lavonne Practice School’ where the
students are not doing their regular course, but
are also part of the Lavonne Café production
team. What happens in a real-time kitchen
environment? How different it is when you’re
making the same cake into 500 cakes? It’s
completely different when you’re trying to do
one single cake at the school, versus being
part of large-scale production. Apart from this,
we have three cafes across Bangalore, called
the ‘Lavonne Studio Café’, that are part of the
Lavonne brand. And as part of the program,
the students get a chance to work at the cafe,
while they also learn how to run the whole
production. It teaches you various aspects of
running the show. How to keep your guests
happy? How do you deal with guest complaints
or food allergies? How are orders taken and
what’s the best way to provide service? How
do you just generally go about using a POS
system? Or even using the coffee machine to
make great coffee. The Lavonne Practice School
and the Lavonne Studio Café are both meant to
integrate the complexity and understanding of
the real-world environment.
Apart from our flagship program, we also
have a Six-Week Certificate program that is
perfect for home bakers or just about anyone
What are some of the programs and who lacks the time to do our Diploma program.
courses you offer at Lavonne? We also run a whole range of online classes
for students across the globe who cannot
We have a flagship program that’s called make it to Lavonne Academy in Bangalore.
“Diploma de Patisserie” which is certified by Our hands-on weekend classes are perfect for
City & Guilds, London. We’ve recently gotten anyone who is brand new to baking or wants
recognized by the Government of India under to learn something new over the weekend.
the certification by the ‘Travel and Hospitality Chef Joonie Tan takes care of our Sugar Art and
Skill Council’ (THSC) and also the ‘National Cake Design classes that happen every week
Skill Development Corporation’ (NSDC). We’re at Lavonne. Other than this, each year, we host
also now recognized by the government as the about four international chefs who share their
‘Center for Excellence’, as well. knowledge and skills through various types of
Our Diploma de Patisserie program covers Masterclasses and demo classes. We try and
everything from the basics of baking all the way see who is doing something unique and bring
up to advanced skills, which include things like them over so that it’s not just the students, but
wedding cakes, chocolate sculpture and royal also the chefs at Lavonne who can benefit from
icing, among other things. The uniqueness of them. Chef Antonio Bachour was supposed
the program is that we’ve built the course to to be here last April, but then the pandemic
try and train our students to become future happened, so we’re going to reschedule that
entrepreneurs. Therefore, we have something for 2021.

78 Pastry Arts
What kind of opportunities do your and replicate anything else, because you have
students have after graduating from a mind of your own. And there are things that
Lavonne? inspire you, and thoughts that make you who
you are, and you should bring that out in your
We have spent the time to build Lavonne creations. And we’ve seen that with a lot of our
as a brand that is now known for the quality students who’ve gone back to their hometown
of education. So, our students get plenty and created something completely unique. And
of opportunities both in India and around those success stories are the ones that excite
the world. We are associated with agencies us the most.
that help students get internships and job
placements outside of India. Also, most hotels in
India are always excited about having a student
from Lavonne be part of their establishment,
because they absolutely understand the value
they bring to the table.
If you ask one of our students, “Hey, can you
scale this recipe and then make pastry cream?” We always encourage
they’re not confused – they know exactly how
to go about it. Having said that, the eventual our students to try
goal is that we give them an environment
to bring out their creative best along with and bring out their
originality. I feel that’s something that is
very important for any chef – to be real and own uniqueness in
original. We always encourage our students
to try and bring out their own uniqueness in
whatever they do. We
whatever they do. We tell them: “Don’t try tell them: ‘Don’t try and
replicate anything else,
because you have a
mind of your own.’

Pastry Arts 79
How has COVID-19 affected your We initially said, “You know what? Let’s
school? just try to do a class online. We’ll take in 20
students and see what happens.” We had never
The lockdown in Bangalore happened on explored the online space ever before, because
March 23rd, and when they announced it, they we believed that pastry needs to be a hands-on
said, “Lockdown is for three weeks.” And I was program. But as soon as we announced the first
actually quite happy with the first lockdown. I class, I was shocked. We had over a thousand
said, “This is great, three weeks off!” I wasn’t people inquiring for those 20 seats. Now it’s
going to feel guilty about taking time off, cause I not just Bangalore anymore. It is students from
surely needed it after eight years of hustling. So, across India and different parts of the world.
we shut down operations. We said, “You know Students would wake up in the middle of the
what? Let’s use this time to take a break and night in countries like Canada and the United
spend time at home with family.” It was a great States to be part of the online class at Lavonne.
time with my wife at home, we were cooking We did multiple sessions of over 50 subjects
every day, trying to do things that we never did and over a period of four months, trained over
for these eight years. But the lockdown just 14,000 students online. The entire team was
kept going on until the point where we were involved in doing classes for the next four
in mid-May, with the lockdown still in place. months online. Finally, on November 2nd, we
That’s when it started to get a little scary, started our hands-on classes once again, with
because bills won’t get paid by just chilling at necessary protocols in place – everyone wears
home. We didn’t have any kind of support that masks, we do temperature checks, we have
was going to help us pay our employees. So, we sanitizers all around – the usual things that
had to rethink what we were going to do, and need to be done. And generally making sure
that’s when we switched to starting our Online that the students are healthy. If anybody feels
Baking Workshops. sick, we ask them to go back home.

80 Pastry Arts
 We had never
explored the online
space ever before,
because we believed
that pastry needs
to be a hands-
on program. But
as soon as we
announced the first
class, I was shocked.
We had over a
thousand people
inquiring for those
20 seats.

Pastry Arts 81
Have you seen an increased
interest in pastry arts in India in
the past decade or so?
I think in the beginning, the entire
concept of French pastry was still a little
bit mysterious. People knew about it, also
there was that curiosity amongst people.
Now everybody knows what a macaron
is, but 10 years ago people were like, “Ok,
why is this tiny thing so expensive?” I’m
going to give a lot of credit to TV shows

like MasterChef Australia – everybody was so

excited to watch people cook at that level on
a TV show. Another factor that has influenced
this is the fact that the average Indian is well
travelled and understands world cuisines. And,
of course, the internet has given people more
access to what’s going on around the world. So,
it’s easier for us to put out anything on a menu,
and there is something for everybody.

82 Pastry Arts
I know you have a strong commitment educators, we try and explain to our students
to the environment and finding that this is the difference when you make a
croissant with T55 flour as compared to the
sustainability. Is this mission
local flour. Do you want the most beautiful
something that you feel is important to looking croissant with French butter? Or do
ingrain in your students? And if so, how you want a good quality croissant using local
do you achieve that? butter and local flour? But it’s important that
they know the difference, because I think that’s
Now, this is a little tricky for pastry chefs, where we are at this point in time.
because pastry chefs mostly cook out of boxes.
I think the people who are involved in
Chocolate is in a box. Butter is in a box. And
manufacturing products have realized the
so are purees. These are the brands that you
importance of special ingredients, and they’re
want to use. Apart from fresh fruit, it is hard to
trying to solve those issues. I know that our
find local ingredients to do pastry. I don’t get flour maker is taking samples of every flour that
the best quality butter locally yet. I don’t get we import to try and see how he can achieve
the best quality chocolate yet. But if I did have that quality flour. It is an exciting time for us in
an option of getting the best quality chocolate India, because I can see that the manufacturers
that’s grown locally, I would have switched are not saying, “Okay, we have this flour and
without giving it a second thought. I think it’s that’s all you’re going to get.” They want to do
easier for a culinary chef to get into that format more. They want to be part of the change. They
because it’s always great to use local tomatoes, want to be part of everything that’s going to
local carrots, herbs, grains or any homegrown talk about their quality as well, compared to
produce. There are specific ingredients that how it used to be. Before they used to be like,
you need in the pastry industry which makes “This is what I have and if you don’t like it, I
this difficult. have a million other people who are going to
With flour, for example, sometimes you may buy my product. I don’t need to try and make
need to get a certain percentage of protein something special for only you.” It’s changing,
to be able to achieve a specific result. And as and I am very happy about that.

Pastry Arts 83
 For us the real vision for Lavonne
was to see how we can uplift the
standards of baking and pastry
for the entire nation.
84 Pastry Arts
 see what happens.” And that year, in 2017, to
everyone’s surprise we won the silver medal! It
was unbelievable and everyone was shocked.
We beat the big boys! We beat the countries
from Europe as well as Japan. Countries that
have always been known for pastry. Winning
Silver while pastry is not even a traditional skill
in India was truly a very big deal.
After this, a lot of importance was being
given to pastry arts in India. This is one of the
reasons why Lavonne Academy received the
recognition of Center for Excellence. In 2019
again, when we participated in WorldSkills
Kazan in Russia, we won the Medallion of
Excellence, which placed us sixth or seventh
You have achieved success with your in the world. Although we didn’t win Silver or
academy at a very young age. Do you Gold, this was indeed a major accomplishment
have any other goals you’re working for all of us. Soon after, through an electoral
towards? system, I was voted to become the Chief Expert
for WorldSkills International. This means that
For us, the real vision for Lavonne was to see I’m no longer just training a candidate, but I
how we can uplift the standards of baking and control the competition globally. Unfortunately,
pastry for the entire nation. With that in mind, due to the pandemic, the WorldSkills 2021
we became involved in WorldSkills, which is a competition has been postponed by a year. But
global competition that happens once every I’ll see you all at WorldSkills Shanghai in 2022.
two years. It’s under the Ministry of Skills
and Entrepreneurship and over 80 countries
come to participate across various skills. It’s
definitely one of the biggest competitions
in the world. They don’t just cover pastry,
they do every skill there is in the world, from
carpentry, hairdressing, aircraft maintenance,
plumbing, brick laying, etc. Among them are
the hospitality skills, which include cooking,
bakery, confectionery and even F&B service.
So, for this competition, an entire year goes
into selecting the final candidate, followed
by one year of upskilling and training the
candidate. It’s pretty much like the Olympics
for skills. In Korea, they choose their candidate
almost four years before the final competition.
So, for example, if the competition is happening
in 2022, you probably know in 2018 that
you’re going to compete. That’s how intense
this competition is. When we took on
WorldSkills, we did start with discussing it
with the Government of India. We said, “You
know what, let’s, train the competitors and

Pastry Arts 85
Recipe

‘Fortuna’
By Vinesh Johny

86 Pastry Arts
A
lmost everyone I know
Element 1
can do with a bit of luck
and charm. This creation Brown Butter
of mine is solely dedicated Mandarin Financier
to marching forward into
a prosperous and joyful
2021. I didn’t know this until recently, but Orange Marmalade
for over a thousand years the horseshoe
has been a symbol of good luck and great • 120 g whole Mandarin oranges
fortune. According to ancient folklore, it’s • 90 g superfine granulated sugar, divided
supposed to protect you from evil, prevent • 2 g pectin
nightmares and bring good luck. So, I’ve
taken inspiration from all things good 1. Boil the Mandarin oranges in a pot of water
to present you with this very delicious for 30 minutes. Discard the water, add
entremet. From shape and color to flavors some more water and boil it for another 30
and textures, it’s everything meant to make minutes. Allow it to cool down, then deseed
2021 a year to be cherished. it and chop into small pieces.
One of the prominent flavors in this 2. Place 80 g of the superfine granulated sugar
dessert is Mandarin orange, which has and the chopped oranges in a heavy-bottomed
always been an integral part of The pan. Mix the pectin and the remaining 10 g
Chinese New Year. The small citrus that sugar. Place the orange mixture on medium-
resembles the sun is aligned with the yang low heat and add the sugar-pectin mixture
principle, which is a symbol of abundance once it reaches 104˚F (40°C). Continue
and happiness. Also, the Chinese word cooking the marmalade until thick. Transfer
for mandarin, ‘kam’, sounds similar to to a clean container and reserve.
the word for ‘gold’. So, having mandarin
oranges around the home at New Year is Brown Butter
said to bring riches into your life. The other
intriguing flavor you will find in this dessert • 110 g unsalted butter
is that of the humble peanut. This is also
regarded as a lucky symbol, because of its 1. Place the butter in a heavy-bottomed
auspicious-sounding name – the Chinese pan over medium-low heat. Once melted,
name ‘fah sung’ is a homonym for prosperity continue cooking until the butter turns
and abundance. I’ve therefore deliberately brown and releases a nutty aroma.
incorporated flavors of orange goodness
along with the nutty aromas and flavor of
peanuts in this dessert. Since ancient times, Financier
the color red has been very popular across • 105 g egg whites
cultures, religions and demographics. It
• 15 g invert sugar
represents happiness, beauty, vitality, good
luck, success and good fortune. So, this • 106 g confectioners’ sugar
dessert is a culmination of everything good • 57 g macadamia nut flour
there can be, to bring you all the luck and • 33 g refined flour (T45)
joy you need! • 1 g Maldon sea salt
• 100 g Brown Butter (above), melted 30 g
Yield: 1 entremet orange marmalade
• 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

Pastry Arts 87
1. Whisk together the egg whites and invert Crunch
sugar. Add the dry ingredients and whisk
until combined. • 40 g white chocolate
2. Mix a small part of the batter into the • 60 g cornflakes cereal, crushed
melted butter and whisk well until uniform.
• 40 g Spiced Peanut Praliné
Combine both the batters, then fold in the
orange marmalade along with vanilla bean • 1 g salt
seeds.
1. Place the white chocolate on a tray and
3. Pipe into desired molds and bake at 338˚F
bake at 300˚F (150˚C) for 15-20 minutes,
(170 °C) for 13-15 minutes.
agitating the chocolate every 7 minutes,
until light golden brown. Blitz the chocolate
Element 2 to a fine paste.
Citrus-Spiced Peanut Crunch 2. Mix the caramelized white chocolate with
the crushed cornflakes, Spiced Peanut
Praliné and salt, then spread this mixture
Spiced Peanuts over the baked cake that has been cut into
the desired shape.
• 100 g peanuts
• 15 ml vegetable oil Element 3
• 1 g black salt Citrus Fruit Confiture
• 2 g turmeric powder with Orange Blossom
• 6 g paprika
• 1 g ground black pepper • 100 g Mandarin orange purée
• 1 g dry mango powder • 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
• 30 g superfine granulated sugar, divided
1. Toast peanuts, then toss and cook with the
• 2 g pectin NH
spices to create a flavorful spiced peanut
mixture. • 40 g orange segments
• 30 g grapefruit segments
• 50 g Mandarin orange segments
Spiced Peanut Praliné • 10 g lemon segments
• 1.5 g gelatin sheets, bloomed
• 40 g superfine granulated sugar
• 5 g orange blossom water
• 10 g water
• 1 g Maldon sea salt
• 100 g Spiced Peanuts (above)
1. Cook Mandarin puree, vanilla bean and 20 g
1. Cook water and sugar to 244˚F (118˚C). of the superfine granulated sugar to 104˚F
Add the Spiced Peanuts and cook until the (40˚C). Add the remaining 10 g sugar, the
mixture seizes. Continue to cook until the pectin NH and citrus segments and cook
mixture caramelizes and then spread it onto until the mixture thickens and reaches
a silicone baking mat-lined sheet pan and 217˚F (103˚C).
allow to set. 2. Remove from the heat and add the bloomed
2. Once slightly cooled, blitz it until you get a gelatin, orange blossom water and salt.
fine praline paste. Transfer to desired mold and freeze.

88 Pastry Arts
 Element 4 2. Sheet out the dough to 6 mm and cut into
desired shapes.
Caramelized White Chocolate 3. Bake between two perforated mats at
Mousse with Saffron and 338˚F (170˚C) for 8-10 minutes.
Tonka Bean
Element 6
• 4 g gelatin Mirror Glaze
• 100 g whole milk, warm
• 2 g saffron • 18 g gelatin sheets
• 0.5 g tonka bean • 120 g water
• 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped • 210 g granulated sugar
• 100 g egg yolks • 210 g glucose syrup
• 15 g superfine granulated sugar • 210 g white chocolate
• 220 g caramelized white chocolate (use • 150 g condensed milk
same method for caramelizing as in Crunch, • 80 g neutral glaze
above)
• A few drops of red gel food coloring
• 250 g heavy cream, whipped
1. Bloom gelatin in ice-cold water.
1. Bloom the gelatin in ice cold water.
2. Boil water, sugar and glucose to around
2. Combine the warm milk, saffron, tonka 216˚F (102˚C). Remove from the heat and
bean and vanilla bean seeds. whisk in the bloomed gelatin. Pour over the
3. Whisk together the yolks and sugar, then chocolate and condensed milk and emulsify.
temper into the milk mixture and cook to Add the neutral gel and food coloring and
180˚F (82˚C). Remove from heat and whisk emulsify. Surface-wrap the mixture and let
in the bloomed gelatin. Pour over the semi- rest for 12 hours.
melted caramelized white chocolate and 3. Melt and use to glaze frozen entremet.
emulsify. Cool to 86˚F (30˚C), then fold in
the whipped cream. Place in mold.
Assembly
Element 5 1. Pipe a layer of mousse into the mold and
Peanut Sablé insert the frozen Citrus Confiture. Pipe
another layer of mousse on top and insert
the financier that has a layer of Crunch on
• 100 g unsalted butter, cold and diced top. Flatten to form an even base and freeze
• 50 g confectioners’ sugar until firm enough to demold.
• 1 g salt 2. Glaze with the Mirror Glaze and place over
• 30 g peanut flour baked Peanut Sablé. Garnish as desired.
• 200 g all-purpose flour
• 35 g whole eggs

1. Mix all the ingredients except the eggs

together to form a bread crumb consistency.
Add the eggs and mix to a smooth dough
(do not overmix).

Pastry Arts 89
Pastry Virtuosity

Plant-Based

Candy
By Jimmy MacMillan

90 Pastry Arts
I
t’s encouraging to see more in softness at room
temperature, so
plant-based options for unlike butter, you
confections that offer a may need to temper
each oil differently,
delicious candy experience
sometimes working
without sacrificing the texture or with products at a
flavor of classic confections. When refrigerated temperature.
We have had success
making candies, we know that setting enrobed praline fillings
adding fat slows crystallization. by adding cocoa butter to praline paste.
For example, by combing 300 grams cocoa
That is why so many so many of butter and 700 grams praline paste at 113˚F
our filling ratios include dairy such (45˚C) results in a center that can be cut and
enrobed. These oils can also be used to set
as butter and cream. Adjusting to
hand-rolled truffles, combining with chocolate
contemporary diets and lifestyle and nut milks to achieve a desired set that can
has us looking for plant-based remain soft at room temperature. The addition
of oil helps counteract the hard set of cocoa
solutions. butter at room temperature. In our caramels,
we use coconut fat combined with other oils to
adjust the softness of the candy. Start with 40
There are many plant-based solutions for fat percent coconut cream or milk to 10 percent
replacement available in the marketplace. These plant-based butter, with the remaining 40
options include nut milks and nondairy butters. percent consisting of various sugars.
Unlike the butter and milk that are traditionally Chef Marta Martin has put together a plant-
used, these products vary depending on based bulletin supported by her research that I
their source material. Milk products made would recommend to further understand how
from almond, cashew and coconut should professionals can embrace plant-based sweets.
be considered and evaluated by flavor and Copies of the bulletin can be found at https://
texture. Nondairy butters are based on oils www.cacao-barry.com/en-US/plantbased.
such as coconut oil and sunflower oil, and also Although we’ve only scratched the surface
vary from product to product. with this topic, it’s important to understand
One product that has yielded positive that our customers will continue to want
results is Earth Balance’s vegan butter. Their candies that are dairy free and made from
formulation consists of palm fruit, palm oil, plant-based materials. And it’s important as
soybean, flax and olive oils. Another retail pastry professionals that we keep an open mind
product to consider is Miyoko’s European Style and follow trends that support contemporary
Cultured Butter, which contains coconut oil and lifestyles.
sunflower oil. Examining the differences among
these products can be helpful in understanding
how using them affects the texture of the
finished candy. Effective fat replacement can Jimmy MacMillan is a celebrated pastry chef,
be achieved with 100 percent coconut oil or food writer and award-winning videographer.
by combining sunflower oil (30 percent) and Chef MacMillan is a pastry consultant working
coconut oil (70 percent), which produces a under the Pastry Virtuosity label. For more
product most similar to butter in mouthfeel. It’s information, visit www.PastryVirtuosity.com
important to understand that each oil varies and @jimmymacmillan.

Pastry Arts 91
Specialty Desserts

Gluten
and Nut
Free Dessert
with Chef Richard Hawke

92 Pastry Arts
C itrus
season is here, so now I can
use a variety of these fruits for
a creation I have had in mind
for some time now. Lemon

Lady Caviar
and poppy seed cakes are part
of my childhood memories,
and I love the texture that the
Yield: 20 petits gateaux
poppies give to a sponge. This Special equipment: Pavoni #PX4350 sphere
creation changed little by little molds

as I had different elements in

my head, but at the last moment
Shortbread
I could visualize how it would
look. I like using natural colors, • 130 g brown rice flour
and using the jelly insert as an • 1.5 g guar gum (preferably Louis François)
• 50 g confectioners’ sugar
element of the decoration gives • 17 g oatmeal flour
a pop of color to the finished • 1.2 g salt
product. In a production setting • 70 g unsalted butter, 82% fat
• 28 g whole egg
an assembly like this facilitates
the manipulation of the inserts. 1. Mix all the dry ingredients with the butter
This creation is completely to form a sandy texture. Add the egg and
mix until a dough forms.
gluten- and nut-free. 2. Roll dough out to a thickness of 0.12ʺ (3
mm) and then refrigerate to firm up.
3. Cut 2ʺ (5 cm) diameter discs and bake on
a perforated silicone mat at 300˚F (150°C)
for 15 minutes (par-baked). Allow to cool.

Pastry Arts 93
 Fold the meringue into the poppy seed
mixture, then stir in the Gluten-Free Flour
Mixture and the baking powder.
3. Pipe 20 g of the sponge batter onto each
par-baked shortbread in a 2ʺ (5 cm) diameter
silicone mold. Bake at 350˚F (180°C) for 10-
15 minutes (for a fan forced oven).
4. When the sponges come out of the oven,
cut them to 1.5ʺ (4 cm) for assembly.

Gluten-Free Flour Mixture Chef’s tip: You can replace or remove the poppy
seeds and lemon zest in the recipe.
• 12 g brown rice flour
• 12 g fine corn meal
• 12 g potato starch Bergamot Orange
Compote with Finger Lime
1. Sift together all ingredients and whisk gently
to combine. Place in airtight container. • 80 g bergamot orange puree (Capfruit)
• 260 g water
Lemon Poppy Seed Sponge • 60 g superfine granulated sugar
• 50 g instant inulin (preferably Louis François)
• 80 g raw ‘unrefined’ sugar • 7 g pectin NH
• 1.3 g fine sea salt (fleur de sel) • 2 g locust bean gum
• 80 g oatmeal flour • 35 g finger lime
• 25 g whole egg
• 25 g egg yolk 1. Heat the puree with the water to 122˚F
• 25 g heavy cream, 35% fat (50°C). Add the powders and blend before
• 20 g poppy seeds heating to 185˚F (85°C). Allow to cool.
• Finely grated zest of ½ lemon 2. Fold in the finger lime. Pour 25 g directly
into molds.
• 70 g unsalted butter
• 90 g egg whites
Chef’s tip: Stir the compote well before pouring
• 10 g superfine granulated sugar to ensure that the finger lime is well incorporated
• 
35 g Gluten-Free Flour Mixture (above), into the mixture.
sifted
• 2.2 g baking powder (gluten-free)
Timut Pepper Infusion
1. In a bowl, using a spatula, mix together the
sugar, salt, oatmeal flour, egg, egg yolk, cream, • 187 g water
poppy seeds and lemon zest. Melt the butter • 2.5 g Timut pepper
and add to the mixture, combining well.
2. Whip the egg whites and gradually add the 1. Boil water with pepper; cover and infuse for
superfine sugar to form a French meringue. 2 hours.

94 Pastry Arts
 Mascarpone Mousse Neutral Glaze for Glazing
• 148 g Timut Pepper Infusion • 1000 g Neutral Glaze (above)
• 50 g gelatin mass (1:6) • 200 g water
• 2 g salt
• 540 g mascarpone 1. Heat glaze with water to 89-95˚F (32-
• 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped 35°C). Glaze frozen cakes as directed
• 160 g pasteurized egg whites below.
• 80 g superfine granulated sugar
• 20 g instant inulin Assembly
1. Melt the gelatin mass to 104˚F (40°C) and 1. Pour 25 g Bergamot Orange Compote into
pour onto infusion; add salt. Pour onto the each cavity and blast-freeze to set.
mascarpone and cut and scraped vanilla bean 2. Pipe mousse into molds then insert
before emulsifying with a hand blender. sponge/shortbread insert. Smooth tops,
2. Blend whites with sugar and inulin and whip then blast-freeze.
to form a creamy meringue. Fold meringue 3. Unmold and dip into glaze with a toothpick.
into mascarpone base at 59-68˚F (15-20°C).
Use immediately. 4. Place onto a cake board and decorate with
dried flowers.

Chef’s tip: The Timut pepper has a certain floral

flavor profile which works well with the bergamot.
Using a water base for the recipe enables increased
sensation of the mascarpone in the recipe.

Neutral Glaze
• 388 g water
• 559 g superfine granulated sugar, divided
• 13 g pectin X58 (Louis François)
• 40 g lemon juice

1. Heat water with 460 g of the sugar to 122˚F

(50°C).
2. Add the remaining 99 g sugar and pectin.
Blend well and heat to 185˚F (85°C). Add
lemon juice, cover and refrigerate to 24
hours.

Chef’s tip: This glaze can last for months if well

covered and refrigerated.

Pastry Arts 95
Profile

Kimberly
Brock Brown
On Rising Through the Ranks and
Navigating Tumultuous Times

By Shawn Wenner

96 Pastry Arts
B
orn in Chicago and raised in Maywood,
Illinois, Chef Kimberly Brock Brown’s career
began taking shape once she graduated as a
chef’s apprentice in 1984. The combination
of her passion for food and eagerness to
excel brought her to the kitchen even on her
days off. As she recalls, “It was no problem
for me then to come in at 3:00 in the morning, because I got
to learn.” A couple of years later, Chef Kimberly’s dedication to
the craft culminated in a promotion to executive pastry chef. At
the higher level, she quickly realized it was “sink or swim.” She
admits treading water the first couple of years as an executive
pastry chef while advancing her knowledge and skills through
continuing education classes and seminars, until eventually,
she found her rhythm. What happened over the course of three
decades is now a blueprint for anyone striving for success as a
pastry professional today. Chef Kimberly has done everything
from being featured at the James Beard House, authoring her
book Here I Am!, starting a wholesale specialty food distributing
company, earning her Certified Executive Pastry Chef, Certified
Culinary Administrator, and Approved Culinary Examiner
designations through the American Culinary Federation, and
most notably, becoming the first African American female
chef inducted into the American Academy of Chefs, the Honor
Society of the ACF. All in all, Chef Kimberly has dedicated herself
to the industry, led by example, and most honorably, constantly
helped the next generation of pastry professionals advance in
their careers. In our interview, we discuss her career beginnings,
thoughts on the immediate changes in the pastry industry, and
ask “Where do we go from here?”

Pastry Arts 97
 The Q&A

What early career adversity did you face

that helped to shape you professionally?
After I graduated, I worked with a pastry chef who
was so inspiring and wanting people to do better,
and like a little sponge, I soaked it up. Because of
the way he taught and ran his production, he was
an inspiration for me. Then it totally flipped when What was an early career win for
I got promoted. There was a lack of support that you or a career inflexion point?
I immediately felt from my new managers. It was
like ‘sink or swim,’ you’re the executive now. And I The promotion from being a graduated
get that, you’re supposed to know, but in your first apprentice in ‘84 to executive pastry
position as an executive, you don’t know everything. chef in late ’86. The whole time I was an
With no support, or the warm and fuzzies I got [apprentice], I had access to the pastry chef
before, it was a big adjustment. I was treading water and two assistants and learned what, and
a lot in those first couple of years. I asked a lot of how, they did things. It was no problem for
questions to people that I worked with. Realizing I me then to come in at 3:00 in the morning,
needed more education, I talked to my boss, and to because I got to learn. Even on days off, I
his boss, to take classes and seminars. I [remember] would come in. I didn’t care, I just wanted to
being paid to go to a marzipan class back in the learn. People don’t understand that at this
day, and guess what my boss does? They book a point in time it’s that extra effort that gets
party that’s got 500 marzipan figures on the plate you where you need to be. I learned how to
[laughing]. And I’ll tell you right now, it’s easier if set up the schedules, how to run the shop,
you start off doing 500 or 1000 plates and then how to order stuff for a production hotel
go down to doing 100 than it is for you to start of that size, learned the recipes, and was
your career doing 50 or just restaurant style and allowed to have input. It was very key in my
then have to all of a sudden do 1000. If you can growth and expansion to where I am today.
do production, you can do production anytime, no That was a tipping point. Coming out of my
matter what it is. I definitely had to figure it out apprenticeship, getting that training, and
[early on] while treading water. then being promoted.

98 Pastry Arts
As you evolved as an executive pastry Now, “What do you mean you’ve got $5,000,
chef, what was something vital you $10,000 in student loans, and now you need
learned in the role that helped in your a 25-cent raise?” So when graduation comes,
the next day, “Can I get a dollar raise?” The
overall effectiveness?
paper is great. I appreciate you getting it. Now
The human aspect of the whole thing and that you’ve got it, tell me what it is that you are
communication. In my experience as a hotel doing that’s different to justify this increase to
pastry chef, we are so different and cut off the chef.
from the [savory side]. I remember in my exit Also, the way we plate desserts has changed.
interview they asked, “How come the bake shop Because the way I plated up back then is not the
gets so many overtime hours?” That’s because same. It could be the simplest thing, a pound
we have more steps to do. We don’t just take cake, you’d jazz it up, basically throw some
the cake and put it on the plate. We make the whipped cream and berries on the plate and
cake, filling, icing, decorations, sauces needed have a nice day. Now the plating has evolved,
to plate it. It’s amazing to me sometimes that and it doesn’t matter what it is – the highfalutin’
people have no clue what goes on in the pastry desserts will have all the components and
and baking department. And that’s why it’s the pieces and parts, even something as simple as
first thing that gets cut when things are getting pound cake.
too tight and they’re looking to save money.
Even though it’s a mistake, because there have
been many times that that specialty plate, At this point in time
that cake, those turndown services that we’ve
done have saved a lot of things. Sweetened it’s that extra effort
the pot. Instead of you comping the meal, give
them something else. There’s many a time that gets you where
that baking and pastry production has saved
a lot of customer’s complaints. I think the you need to be.
communication between you and management,
and then the same communication you have
with them, you need to have with your team.
Everybody needs to be on the same page.

Putting the pandemic aside, from when

you were coming up until now, what
are some of the differences that
you see?
Having gone through an
apprenticeship, it’s [the concept
of] student loans. I never had
student debt because of my
apprenticeship. I got paid,
went to school, and then
the hotel I worked at, as
part of their benefits, they
reimbursed for education.

Pastry Arts 99
 How do you think things need to
evolve right now for the pastry
industry?
I tell the students all the time, we are still
essential people, food and beverage. People
have to eat no matter where you are, so you just
have to find a way to feed them. If it’s a grab-
and-go or package kind of thing, then that’s the
way it’s going to have to be until it gets back to
whatever the new normal is going to be. And
so if it’s a tart, cake, pie, cookie, whatever it is,
then how do you package it and get it out? Do
you start a website, an online business? Do you
get in touch with a couple of restaurants in your
area for them to add [your products] to their
to-go’s or delivery service? I don’t see really
too many restaurants coming back at this point
in time. The [COVID-19] numbers are going
back up again and getting crazy. So, I really do
As we’re coming close to nine months believe grab-and-go is going to be the solution.
of the pandemic, what are you hearing It will be all in how you can package something
from other pastry chefs or hospitality up and the collaborations of other places or
professionals right now? entities coming together. Sitting around is not
going to get it, if you’re hungry, you’re hungry.
It’s real. People are very much affected by it. You go and knock on doors or make phone
With [shutdowns or capacity limitations], calls. You make those connections. But I say to
you can’t bring staff back. You can’t do a lot people all the time, don’t wait until a pandemic
of production when you’re down to only or emergency to have those connections. You
50 percent. And people don’t want that kind need to be meeting people all the time. You
of experience of having somebody coming to can’t be head down working and just making
their table with the mask and gloves, it’s just great desserts, great food, whatever, all the
not what they want to see. time. You’ve got to look up, take those blinders
Even without a pandemic, the first thing off, because you’re missing so much more. You
[places] do to save money is cut the baking don’t know who just walked by, who you just
and pastry production. So, now, they’re going missed the opportunity to meet, when you
and getting the Sara Lee or whatever the hot don’t get yourself out there. Go to different
product is now, and the baking and pastry events in your area and network. Have your
people are hurting. A lot of people that I know card ready, if you don’t have a card, have an
pastry-wise, their country clubs or hotels for index card, and put your name and get theirs
the most part, not so much the restaurants, too, a phone number, email, whatever. But
they’re okay but it’s still slow. I don’t know always, always network and meet people. You
where fine-dining restaurants are going to be. don’t know who you’re going to see. And it’s
So it’s real. The sweet side is not very sweet not always who you know, but who knows the
right now, it’s hurting. people you know too.

100 Pastry Arts

I tell the students all the time,
we are still essential people,
food and beverage. People
have to eat no matter where
you are, so you just have to
find a way to feed them.
Pastry Arts 101
 Pandemic or not, what are some tried
and true principles that will best serve
pastry and baking professionals?
Finding creative ways to give people joy with
food. Even if it’s something that we have to
start packaging, when you open up that box,
whatever it is, how does it look? Give people
that excitement of ‘I just ordered this, I can’t
wait to eat this,’ feeling. The same ambience
experience is not there, so the presentation
is that wow factor. You just have to figure out
how to present better, especially if it’s a to-go
situation. And I believe we need to keep things
on a healthy level, because people are very
concerned about that, as well. So how do you
make a brulée or a cheesecake a little healthier
and still satisfying so they come back and get
more, because one is not going to cut it, you
got to have repeat customer business.

102 Pastry Arts

You just have to figure
out how to present
better, especially if
it’s a to-go situation.
And I believe we need
to keep things on a
healthy level, because
people are very
concerned about
that, as well.

Pastry Arts 103

What are your final thoughts or
message to the next generation
of pastry and baking professionals
coming up now?
This is temporary – we are still a much-needed
career. People are always eating and drinking
no matter where you are. It’s just a matter of
you figuring out how you can best feed people.
I think that’s going to be the key.
Make sure you’re always networking –
always. You can never not need people. I’m an Always learn something different if you can,
introvert. I can sit in my house all day long and and don’t be afraid to stretch out and go to
not do a thing, but when I know I have to go, I the savory side for baking and pastry, because
have to go. I know I need to be meeting people there are a lot of savory desserts now. People
and always expanding who I know, and who are not eating as much sugar now. I remember
knows me. And I understand the intimidation the first time somebody did a thyme and ricotta
factor with meeting a seasoned chef. I know cheesecake for me I said, “What in the world?”
when I was an apprentice at ACF, you did not But it was so good. Now it’s nothing to put
want to be in the room with those chefs, they some rosemary, thyme, whatever, in a dessert
scared us. But you have to make sure you are to make them less sweet. So, there’s always
meeting people. something to learn, just be open-minded.

104 Pastry Arts

 IT’S COMING…
With close to 20,000 attendees for the first-ever Pastry Arts Virtual
Summit in 2020, the pastry summit is now a staple event from Pastry Arts
Magazine. Slated to open in late spring, the 2021 summit will be designed
with a keen focus on helping pastry pros navigate the challenges still
lingering from the global pandemic.

Learn more at pastrysummit.com

Teacher Feature

Richard
Coppedge
JR., CMB
Professor, Baking and Pastry Arts, Culinary
Institute of America, Hyde Park, NY
By Genevieve Sawyer

106 Pastry Arts

C
hef Richard Coppedge became a chef instructor
at the Culinary Institute of America in 1993,
after working at bakeries and hotels throughout
Massachusetts, Florida, and Rhode Island, and
teaching at Johnson & Wales University. He has
won numerous awards, including the 1996 and 1997 Marc
Sarrazin Cup (awarded by the prestigious Société Culinaire
Philanthropique) at the Salon of Culinary Arts in New York
City. In 2008, he authored Gluten-Free Baking with The
Culinary Institute of America (Adams Media, 2008) to great
critical acclaim. He relishes the opportunity to encourage his
students to think creatively in his Advanced Baking Principles
class, where he teaches students to alter conventional
recipes so that they are compatible with allergen awareness
and special diets. Here he discusses the challenges of gluten-
free baking, teaching a lab course with COVID restrictions in
place, and what he does to take his mind off work.

Pastry Arts 107

In your class at the CIA, you teach gluten-free “just because”, the contamination
students to alter recipes so that they may not be their biggest concern. It has to be
are compatible with special diets such under twenty parts per million. The customer
has to feel self-confident and assured, and get
as gluten-free, diabetic, vegan, and
that assurance from whoever is producing or
kosher. Is it possible to come up with selling that product.
substitutes that are as good as the
original?
How has the COVID-19 pandemic
It is if you have a really good foundation and affected operations in your class and at
knowledge of the basic conventional recipe. It’s the school’s Hyde Park Campus?
like I tell the students in my class: you’ve got to
understand the mechanics and the reactions of We have to wear a mask and a shield, and get
the ingredients. The most challenging aspect a temperature check. It’s working out okay. It’s
of gluten-free baking is making anything that is hard to talk with all that stuff on. The students
laminated. You don’t see much of that out there. aren’t used to talking in front of groups to
There are a couple of large manufacturers that begin with; it’s harder for them. We have
make some laminated gluten-free items. It’s microphones that we are starting to implement
all mechanized and I don’t think it’s the same. with wireless speakers. I was furloughed for
The day you see something like a Cronut that’s the first time in my life from early April to the
gluten-free, then you know that whoever is beginning of August. They had us take two
making that has figured something out. That weeks of summer vacation, which was okay
whole figuring out process takes time. It can because, you know, we got paid. We taught
also involve a lot of capital. You have to be part of each class online for four or five weeks;
willing to experiment and try it. Celiac is the we’ve been doing live teaching ever since early
most serious concern. For the people who eat August. I’m happy that I’m still teaching.

108 Pastry Arts

As they leave the more protected of chefs and what gender and what race they
environment of a college campus and typically have been. That’s changing a lot. You
have to put your head down and just do a
enter a competitive industry, what
good job preparing good food, and when the
advice would you offer students from opportunity for promotion comes, it’s really,
minority ethnic backgrounds? can you put the food on the table that justifies
that promotion. There are some things you
For me, for many umpteen years I was one of
may not be able to get around, and that’s why
only two African American chef instructors some people have to change their job. That’s
at the CIA. We just hired two more African what’s going to help you to succeed, having
Americans recently. One’s in the baking the good skill set, having the dedication.
department – he’s a former student of mine.
We have a woman – she’s a graduate – who’s
going to be teaching culinary. When students How do you balance your work
talk about me, they don’t mention anything and home life?
about my shade. They mention maybe how I
A lot of it is coming home – I’ve got the animals
talk, and how tall I am. There’s always some right here, two dogs and a cat. I do ride a
prejudice, chauvinism; you look at the history bicycle. Doing something that’s not food
related whatsoever. Hanging out at the bike
shop and building wheels for bicyclists. I like
doing that, it involves a lot of concentration,
but it’s good relaxation for me. You’ve got to
do something; you’ve got to get away from the
industry, whether its mediation or yoga or just
going for a walk. You don’t want to be over-
consumed with the business. It might just be
going home to your family. It’s just my wife
and I and the animals. It works. We have a
home, and we’re able to put food on the table
and feed the animals.

Pastry Arts 109

Recipe

Vanilla/Hazelnut/
White Chocolate/Maple
By Yann Le Coz,
Pastry Chef Instructor, Le Cordon Bleu,
Ottawa Culinary Arts Institute

110 Pastry Arts

 Sablé
Yield: 1 entremet
• 100 g unsalted butter
Special equipment: Silikomart 7ʺ • 90 g maple sugar
(18 cm) eclipse mold; 2.5ʺ (6.5 cm) • 1 g salt
globe mold; 1.37ʺ (3.5 cm) • 90 g almond powder
half-sphere mold
1. In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment, cream the butter with the sugar
and the salt. Mix in the almond powder.
Roll the dough between two pieces of
Maple Syrup Biscuit parchment paper and let set in refrigerator
for 1 hour.
2. Cut in 2.4ʺ (6 cm) and 6.3ʺ (16 cm) rounds
• 85 g almond powder and some extra different sizes for decoration
• 65 g maple sugar and bake at 320˚F (160˚C) for 12 minutes.
• 110 g egg whites, divided Set aside on wire rack to cool.
• 35 g egg yolks
• Seeds from 2 vanilla beans
Vanilla Cremeux
• 20 g heavy cream, 35%
• 20 g granulated sugar
• 250 g heavy cream, 35%
• 35 g all-purpose flour
• 1 vanilla bean, split
• 2 g baking powder
• 60 g egg yolk
• 15 g unsalted butter, melted
• 45 g granulated sugar
• 35 g extra-virgin olive oil
• 
50 g Cacao Barry Zéphyr white chocolate
34%
1. In a Thermomixer, mix together the almond • 4 g gelatin, bloomed with 20 g water
powder, maple sugar, 20 g of the egg whites,
• 50 g unsalted butter
the egg yolks, vanilla bean seeds and cream
– mix for 2 minutes.
2. Whip the remaining 90 g egg whites with 1. In a saucepan, bring the cream to a boil; add
the 20 g sugar to a meringue and fold into the vanilla bean, remove from heat, cover,
the almond mixture. Sift together the flour and allow to infuse.
and baking powder and fold into mixture 2. In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolk and
with the melted butter and olive oil. Spread sugar. Temper into the cream and cook to
batter 3/4ʺ (2 cm) thick over silicone baking anglaise stage, 185˚F (85˚C). Pour over the
mat-lined sheet pan and bake at 350˚F chocolate and emulsify. Whisk in bloomed
(175˚C) for 12 minutes. gelatin and butter. Strain.
3. Cut 1 sponge out with 6.3ʺ (16 cm) 3. Make the insert: place biscuit in the bottom
diameter metal ring for the entremet and of a 6.3ʺ (16 cm) ring. Pour over Vanilla
6 sponges with 1.37ʺ (3.5 cm) diameter for Cremeux to a height of 0.78ʺ (2 cm). Blast
the monoportion. freeze for 15 minutes.

Pastry Arts 111

 Hazelnut Jelly
• 8 g granulated sugar
• 2 g pectin X58
• 115 g milk
• 30 g hazelnut paste 50%
• 5 g cocoa butter

1. Mix the sugar and pectin together.

2. In a saucepan, bring the milk to a simmer,
then add the sugar mixture and boil for a
few seconds. Pour over the hazelnut paste
and cocoa butter and emulsify. Pour over
frozen cremeux layer to a height of 0.39ʺ
(1 cm) and blast-freeze for 15 minutes.

White Chocolate Crème

Legere Zephyr Mousse
• 150 g whole milk
• 40 g egg yolks
• 15 g granulated sugar
• 15 g cornstarch
• 6 g gelatin sheets, bloomed with 30 g water
• 150 g Cacao Barry Zephyr white chocolate
• 375 g heavy cream, whipped

1. In a saucepan, bring the milk to a simmer.

2. In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks,
sugar and cornstarch. Temper into the milk,
then cook until thickened. Whisk in the
gelatin. Pour over the white chocolate and
emulsify.
3. At 72˚F (22˚C), fold in the whipped cream.
Set aside for assembly.

112 Pastry Arts

 1. Make the insert for the monoportion: Have
Glaze ready a 1.37ʺ (3.5 cm) half-sphere mold.
Pour in Hazelnut Jelly to a height of 0.39ʺ
• 300 g granulated sugar (1 cm) and blast-freeze for 15 minutes.
• 200 g glucose 2. Pour Vanilla Cremeux to a height of 0.6ʺ
• 120 g water (1.5 cm) over Hazelnut Jelly in mold and
then top with the 1.37ʺ (3.5 cm) biscuit
• 72 g water
round; blast-freeze.
• 2 vanilla beans, split
3. Pipe the Zephyr Mousse into the entremets
• Grated zest of ½ lime mold, filling it 70% of the way. Press the
• 
12 g powdered fish gelatin (200 bloom), insert in and then blast-freeze for 2 hours.
rehydrated Unmold and glaze with neutral glaze at 95˚F
(35˚C). Place entremet on top of sable.
1. In a saucepan, combine the sugar, glucose, 4. Whip the Chantilly to soft peaks and transfer
water, vanilla beans and lime zest and bring to a pastry bag fitted with #20 plain tip.
to a boil. Transfer the milk chocolate ring decoration
2. Remove from heat and whisk in the gelatin on top of the entremet and pipe some balls
and strain. Set aside and use at 95˚F (35˚C). inside the ring. Use a melon baller dipped
in warm water to make a well in each ball,
then pipe in some of the leftover Vanilla
Milk Chantilly Cremeux. Garnish with chocolate feathers
and gold leaf and some sablé crumbs mixed
• 200 g heavy cream with gold dust.
• 10 g invert sugar
• 100 g milk chocolate

1. In a saucepan, bring the cream and invert

sugar to a boil. Pour over the chocolate and
emulsify.
2. Pour onto tray and chill for 2 hours.

Assembly
• 
Milk chocolate ring (5.5ʺ x 1.5ʺ high/14 cm
x 4 cm high)
• 
Chocolate feathers
• 
24K gold leaf
• 
Edible gold dust

Pastry Arts 113

Recipe

Hazelnut,
Vanilla-Apricot
and Muscovado
By Alessandro Bartesaghi

114 Pastry Arts

 A pricot and hazelnut are two of my favorite flavors –
I use them in many of my desserts. I love hazelnuts from
Piemonte, a region in the northern part of Italy. It brings me
back to my country; as a kid, I used to pick them from the
tree in our garden and then leave them to dry, ready for the
winter. Apricot season is unfortunately quite short, so
I normally like to rehydrate the semi-dried fruit in vanilla and Muscovado sugar syrup.
This syrup gives a unique and deep flavor profile, which lingers on the palate.
Yield: 6-8 portions

• 62 g Jivara 40% milk chocolate

Hazelnut Sablé • 20 g hazelnut paste

• 194 g all-purpose flour

1. Dry-cook the sugar to a dark caramel.
• 62 g confectioners’ sugar Deglaze with cream and glucose syrup, and
• 11 g hazelnut meal bring to a boil. Let cool to 140˚F (60˚C).
• 2 g salt 2. Melt the chocolate with the hazelnut
• 98 g unsalted butter, cold and diced paste and pour over the caramel slowly,
• 33 g whole egg emulsifying the mixture with a hand blender.

1. In a mixing bowl fitted with the paddle

attachment, place the flour, confectioners’
sugar, hazelnut meal, salt, and diced cold
butter. Mix until there are no visible pieces
of butter. Add the egg and mix until the
dough comes together. Roll in between two
guitar sheets to a thickness of 1.5mm. Let
rest in the refrigerator overnight to allow
the gluten to relax.
2. Line an 8ʺ (20 cm) tart ring with the dough
and refrigerate for 2 hours.
3. Bake at 320˚F (160˚C) for 25 minutes, until
golden.

Hazelnut Chocolate Cremeux

• 54 g superfine granulated sugar
• 107 g heavy cream, 35% fat
• 8 g glucose syrup

Pastry Arts 115

 • 10 g Muscovado sugar
Hazelnut Praline Sponge • 2 g vanilla paste

• 143 g unsalted butter

1. Combine everything, place in a Cryovac bag
• 87 g hazelnut praline and cook in a bain-marie for 1 hour.
• 136 g Muscovado sugar 2. Let cool naturally at room temperature. The
• 172 g hazelnut meal fruit should absorb all the liquid.
• 258 g whole eggs
• 2 g salt
Passionfruit Curd
1. In a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment,
• 48 g passionfruit puree
cream together the butter, hazelnut praline,
Muscovado sugar and hazelnut meal. Add • 5 g lemon zest
the eggs little by little, then the salt. • 28 g superfine granulated sugar
2. Spread in a half sheet pan lined with a • 27 g egg yolks
silicone mat and bake in a convection oven • 30 g whole egg
at 320˚F (160˚C) for 20 minutes. • 30 g unsalted butter, cold and diced
• 9 g gelatin solution, 1:6 ratio
Vanilla Apricots
1. In a Thermomix, combine passionfruit
puree, lemon zest, sugar, egg yolks and egg.
• 40 g semi-dried apricots, diced
Cook to 183˚F (84˚C), then bring down to
• 30 g water 122˚F (50˚C) and add the diced butter and
• 20 g passionfruit puree gelatin solution. Emulsify.

116 Pastry Arts

 1. In a bowl, mix together the sugar, cream of
Orelys Mousse tartar and egg whites, and heat to 122˚F
(50˚C) over a bain-marie. Transfer to a mixing
• 48 g full-fat milk bowl fitted with the whisk attachment and
• 13 g gelatin solution, 1:6 ratio whip until cold and light.
• 94 g Valrhona Orelys chocolate 35%, melted 2. Mix hazelnut meal and cornstarch and fold
into the meringue. Pipe in long strips onto
• 96 g semi-whipped cream, 35% fat
a tray lined with silicone paper using 1/3ʺ
(8mm) piping tip. Bake at 266˚F (130˚C) for
1. Heat the milk and add the gelatin solution. 90 minutes.
Gradually pour the hot milk over the melted
chocolate, and make an emulsion with a
hand blender. Assembly
2. Once the mixture is at 86˚F (30˚C),
incorporate the semi-whipped cream. 1. Cut two discs of hazelnut praline sponge
with a 5.5ʺ (14 cm) round tart ring. Freeze.
2. Place one hazelnut praline sponge into
Caramel Glaze the 5.5ʺ (14 cm) round tart ring, pour over
the Passionfruit Curd and place the other
• 178 g superfine granulated sugar hazelnut praline sponge on top. Freeze.
• 144 g heavy cream, 35% fat 3. Pour the Orelys mousse inside of a round
• 103 g water 6.3ʺ (16 cm) silicone cake mold, place the
frozen passionfruit curd-hazelnut sponge
• 6.2 g cornstarch insert on top and freeze.
• 44 g gelatin solution, 1:6 ratio 4. Pour the Hazelnut Caramel Cremeux in the
• 50 g Valrhona Orelys chocolate 35%, melted baked tart, and arrange the Vanilla Apricots
in it. Let set in the refrigerator.
1. Make a dry caramel with the sugar. 5. Melt the Caramel Glaze to between 77-
2. Heat the cream and deglaze the caramel 82˚F (25-28˚C) and pour over the frozen
with it; bring to boil. cake. Clean the side and place in the middle
3. Mix water and cornstarch and add to the of the tart base.
caramel. Cook for a couple of minutes. Cool 6. Cut the meringue into irregular lengths
to 140˚F (60˚C), add the gelatin solution and place around the cake, in between the
and strain over the chocolate. Make an mousse and the tart base.
emulsion and set aside. Use at 77˚F (25˚C).

Hazelnut Meringue
• 100 g superfine granulated sugar
• 0.4 g cream of tartar
• 60 g egg whites
• 30 g hazelnut meal
• 9 g cornstarch

Pastry Arts 117

 Alessandro
Bartesaghi
Executive Pastry Chef, Melbourne Convention
and Exhibition Centre, Melbourne, Australia

Early Influence
My mum has inspired me since I was a child. I used
to help her in the home kitchen every time I could.
Later, I was lucky enough to meet Pierre Hermé in
person and attend one of his classes at his school.
He is the pastry chef that inspired, and still inspires
me, the most.

Signature Style
I like simple flavor combinations, great texture and
balanced sweetness. I love classic desserts and
learning about traditions. I think the story behind
food is what makes it stand out.

Favorite Down-Home Dessert

Warm apple and rhubarb pie with vanilla ice cream.

Inspiration for New Recipes

I always start with a flavor profile, and then try
to understand what works well with it. I then add
some different textures and balance the sweetness
level, usually using fruit.

Biggest Accomplishment
Winning the Asia-Pacific Semifinal for the Valrhona
C3 Chocolate Chef Competition in 2019. I will
represent Asia Pacific in the World final in 2021
(hopefully).

Best Career Advice

Learn the fundamentals very well, and master
everything you do. Be curious and have a thirst for
knowledge.

118 Pastry Arts

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Recipe

The Baker’s
Canadian Nun
By Romain Dufour

120 Pastry Arts

 T
Craquelin
• 200 g unsalted butter, room temperature
• 200 g all-purpose flour
• 200 g granulated sugar

1. In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle

his brioche is attachment, combine all the ingredients and
a great fusion of France and North mix for 3 to 5 minutes.
America – you have the rich, buttery 2. Shape dough into a disc and roll out with
and light texture of a French brioche sheeter to a thickness of ¼” (6 mm). Cut out
partnered with the sweeter tasting 2 ¾” (70 mm) round discs and freeze until
flavors of maple and bourbon that we ready to use.
find in North America. This brioche is
a celebration of where I’m from and
where I live currently.
Bourbon Icing
Yield: 24 servings • 150 g confectioners’ sugar
• 45 g bourbon

1. Whisk ingredients together until smooth.

Simple Syrup
• 100 g water
• 70 g granulated sugar

1. Combine water and sugar in pot and bring to

a boil to dissolve sugar.

Toasted Pecan Insert

• 250 g toasted pecans
• 200 g granulated sugar
• 80 g simple syrup

1. In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle

attachment, combine all ingredients and mix
for 3 to 5 minutes, until ingredients bind
together.
2. Using a tablespoon, scoop 15-30 g rounds of
the mixture onto a sheet pan. Bake at 350˚F
for 8 minutes.

Pastry Arts 121

 1. In an electric mixer fitted with the dough
Brioche Dough hook, place the flour, salt, maple sugar,
maple syrup, eggs, yeast and bourbon, and
• 430 g bread flour mix for 5 minutes at low speed. Increase the
• 8.5 g salt speed to medium and mix for 9 minutes. The
dough needs to be fully developed before
• 65 g maple sugar
adding the butter, which means you need
• 21.5 g maple syrup to be able to form a ‘window’ when you
• 235 g whole eggs stretch the dough (window pane test). Add
• 21.5 g fresh yeast the butter and crème fraiche and mix at low
• 21.5 g bourbon speed for 5 minutes, then mix at medium
speed for 7 minutes. Increase the speed
• 150 g unsalted butter, room temperature
to high and mix for 1 minute. At this stage,
• 65 g crème fraiche the butter should be fully incorporated and
• 65 g toasted pecans the dough does not stick to the sides of the
• 22 g dried black cherries bowl.

122 Pastry Arts

 Romain Dufour
Master Baker, Eurogerm USA,
Chicago, IL

Early Influence
Christophe Michalak and Frederic Lalos,
2. Add the toasted pecans and the dried black M.O.F.
cherries and mix at low speed for 1 minute,
until fully incorporated.
3. Give the dough one fold, then let it rest at Philosophy
room temperature for 30 minutes. I believe sharing is the most important
4. Give the dough another fold, then place in gesture in our job, just as we share the
the refrigerator for 12 to 15 hours. bread in the middle of a table.
5. Divide the dough into 30 g pieces for the
body and 12 g pieces for the head of each Favorite Down-Home Dessert
brioche. Let the dough rest for 10 minutes A good apple tart.
in the refrigerator (it’s important to keep it
chilled). Inspiration for New Recipes
6. To shape the body, flatten down the dough Inspiration is everywhere – in travel,
on a work surface and place a Toasted Pecan outside your house, on TV or social
Insert on top and close the dough around it, media. Most of the time I’m the most
giving it a round shape. Shape the head into inspired when I listen to classical music.
a round shape.
7. Proof at 79˚F (26˚C) with 80% relative Biggest Accomplishment
humidity for 1 ½ hours. Doing some Masterclasses and having
8. Place the Craquelin on the body before my name associated with the biggest
baking. Bake the body at 338˚F (170˚C) for names of the pastry and bakery world.
12 minutes.
9. Bake the head at 338˚F (170˚C) for 8 Best Career Advice
minutes. The baking world is a beautiful world,
10. Dip the head in Bourbon Icing while warm, but you need to be determined, because
then cool. Once cool, place the head on top it is not easy. You need to fail in order
of the body using a little bit of the icing as to understand how to succeed. Never
‘glue’. forget why you do this job!

Pastry Arts 123

Recipe

‘FLOWERS’ Yogurt Panna Cotta, Rose Gel, Coconut Sorbet,

Pistachio Sponge, Basil Seeds, Mango Tuile and Fluid Gel

By Michael Laiskonis

124 Pastry Arts

 U sed in moderation, floral notes can bring subtle complexity
to fruity and nutty flavors. Looking toward the Middle
East and Asia for inspiration, one finds classic examples of
flowers in dessert – especially rose. I love this combination
of mango, rose and pistachio – and the wonderful texture of
basil seeds – one might find commonly used in India.

Yield: 12 plated desserts

1. Combine all ingredients in a blender and

Coconut Sorbet process until smooth.
2. Chill and allow to rest 12 hours.
• 170 g granulated sugar, divided
3. Apply spoonfuls of the puréed mixture onto
• 3 g sorbet stabilizer a Silpat and spread each into a thin layer;
• 390 g water dry in a convection oven at 200˚F (93˚C)
• 75 g glucose powder for 20-25 minutes. As they are removed
• 500 g coconut purée from the oven, shape the tuiles while still
warm and flexible. Allow to cool and store
in an airtight container with desiccant.
1. Combine 20 g of the sugar with the
stabilizer.
2. Heat water to 120˚F (50˚C). Whisk in Mango Fluid Gel
stabilizer mixture, then remaining 150
g sugar and the glucose; bring to a boil.
Remove from heat and chill; allow syrup to • 50 g water
mature for at least 4 hours. • 2.5 g agar agar
3. Combine purée and syrup and process in • 200 g mango purée
batch freezer; extract the mix at 23˚F (-5˚C). • 50 g passion fruit purée
Alternatively, transfer to PacoJet canisters
• 75 g granulated sugar
and freeze; process as needed.

1. Combine the water and agar in a small

Mango Tuile saucepan. Gently bring to a boil; reduce heat
while maintaining a simmer for 2 minutes.
• 250 g mango purée 2. Remove from the heat and whisk in mango
• 10 g lime juice purée, passion fruit purée and sugar. Allow
• 30 g granulated sugar to cool and set.
• 50 g egg whites 3. Process in blender until smooth.

Pastry Arts 125

 Yogurt Panna Cotta Directions
• 500 g heavy cream (36% fat) 1. Hydrate the gelatin in 20 g of the water.
2. Combine the agar and the remaining 125
• 200 g granulated sugar
g water in a small saucepan. Gently bring
• 2 pieces orange zest to a boil; reduce heat while maintaining a
• 8 sheets gelatin, bloomed simmer for 1-2 minutes.
• 500 g whole milk yogurt 3. Remove from the heat and gently stir in
bloomed gelatin and rose syrup. Allow to
1. In a saucepan, combine cream, sugar and cool slightly for a few moments and transfer
orange zest, gently warming over medium to a flat acetate-lined half sheet pan. Chill
heat. and allow to set.
2. Remove from heat and add gelatin, stirring 4. Score into rectangles measuring 1.5ʺ (4
to dissolve. Temper into the yogurt and cm) wide by 5.5ʺ (14 cm) long or a size and
strain through a chinois. shape appropriate to desired form.
3. Deposit into lined 5.5ʺ (14 cm) tubes or
other desired form. Freeze to set. Pistachio Sponge
Rose Gel • 50 g unsweetened pistachio paste
• 50 g sweetened pistachio paste
• 2 sheets gelatin • 200 g whole eggs, room temperature
• 145 g cold water, divided • 20 g rice flour
• 1 g agar agar • 25 g granulated sugar
• 75 g rose syrup • 2 g salt

1. Thoroughly combine all ingredients and

blend with immersion blender; pass through
a fine-mesh sieve.
2. Transfer the mixture to a 1-pint foam
siphon and load with 2 gas chargers, per
manufacturer’s instructions.
3. Dispense the mixture into small paper cups.
4. Place in microwave and cook on high power
for 35-40 seconds. Allow to cool.

126 Pastry Arts

 Michael Laiskonis
Creative Director,
Institute of Culinary Education, New York, NY

Early Influence
Coming up through the ranks, I often looked
toward France and someone like Pierre Hermé,
who was redefining contemporary classics. I was
equally influenced by some of the generous and
inventive pastry chefs of the 1990s – François
Payard, Norman Love and Stanton Ho, among
others.
Basil Seeds
Signature Style
• 60 g water Classic ideas reworked with new forms, flavors and
• 3 fresh basil leaves textures.
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 15 g basil seeds Favorite Down-Home Dessert
• 40 g simple syrup A just-baked almond financier.

1. Heat water and add basil leaves and Inspiration for New Recipes
lemon zest; allow to infuse for 30 In recent years, I’ve gained immeasurable
minutes. Strain. inspiration by simply looking a bit closer at the
2. Combine seeds and water and science of common pastry techniques or the
simple syrup and allow to stand composition and function of our ingredients – this
for at least 1 hour to fully hydrate. kind of understanding gives us far more control
Reserve under refrigeration. and room for creativity.

Biggest Accomplishment
Assembly Running the pastry program at Michelin-starred
Le Bernardin for eight years and during that
1. Unmold the Yogurt Panna Cotta and time being named the James Beard Foundation’s
drape with the Rose Gel – cut into Outstanding Pastry Chef in 2007.
thirds and allow to temper.
2. Arrange the panna cotta onto each Best Career Advice
plate and garnish with Basil Seeds, Taste as much as you can and read as much as you
Pistachio Sponge, Mango Tuile can. Allow yourself an opportunity to fail, as some
and Mango Fluid Gel. Finish with of the best lessons can only be learned through
Coconut Sorbet. trial and error.

Pastry Arts 127

Recipe

Lola
By Gregory Doyen

128 Pastry Arts

W
Meringue for Mousse
• 30 g water
• 35 g granulated sugar
• 30 g glucose syrup
• 45 g egg whites

ith
1. Prepare a sugar syrup with the water, sugar and
experience as the Executive glucose syrup; cook to 250˚F (121°C).
Pastry Chef of the luxury 2. Combine the egg whites with the sugar syrup and
brand Hediard Group in whip to soft peaks.
Russia and the Mandarin
Oriental Hotel in Taipei,
Wild Strawberry Mousse
Gregory Doyen has built his
career crafting head-turning • 105 g heavy cream 35%
desserts and overseeing • 35 g gelatin mix
dessert production for • 145 g Boiron wild strawberry purée
top properties around the • 30 g Boiron raspberry purée
globe. In 2018, he began • 65 g Meringue for Mousse (above)
consulting full-time with
his own company, GD 1. Whip the cream until a foamy texture is achieved.
Sweet Concept, as well as 2. Melt the gelatin and combine with the wild
teaching Master Classes strawberry and raspberry purées at 79˚F (26°C).
at top pastry schools all 3. Incorporate the meringue into the purees, then
over. And now Chef Doyen add the whipped cream and mix gently to keep the
mousse-like texture.
has released his first book,
Sweet Concepts (Chefs
Connection, 2020; $59.95). Wild Strawberry Foam
The lushly photographed
book presents 45 recipes for • 50 g water
fresh and elegant desserts • 25 g granulated sugar
along with a good dose • 200 g Boiron wild strawberry purée
of artistry and inspiration. • 15 g lemon juice
• 15 g Sosa Instangel
Sweet Concepts is available
at www.gregorydoyen.com.
1. Prepare a sugar syrup with the water and sugar.
Following is a recipe from
Combine all the ingredients and emulsify with a hand
the book. blender until you get a perfect emulsion.
Yield: 12 desserts 2. Refrigerate until it is slightly set, then whip in a stand
mixer fitted with a whisk attachment until you get a
firm and spongy mixture.

Pastry Arts 129

 Assembly
• Edible pink flower

1. Pipe 30 g of the Wild Strawberry

Mousse in the bottom of an elegant
glass. Chill for a few minutes, then
pour 20 g Wild Strawberry Foam
on top. Garnish with an edible pink
flower.

Chef’s notes: This is a very simple dessert

to make. The use of Sosa Instangel powder
gives it a very airy texture. Let your
imagination wander and try other fruit
puree flavors.

Sweet
Concepts
By Gregory Doyen
Now Available
www.chefsconnection.com

130 Pastry Arts

 Elevating the art and business
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Recipe

Plant-Based
Chocolate Avocado
Brownies + Matcha
By Anne Lanute

132 Pastry Arts

 T
his dessert was inspired by the silky texture and slightly
nutty flavor of avocado, which is such a versatile ingredient
in plant-based baking and my favorite green fruit. Using nuts
and dates helps create a sweet and flavorful base. While I
love the light vegetal taste of matcha to balance the richness
of the chocolate, I adore how dusting it on top can make the
visuals “pop!”

Yield: 10 servings

Avocado Brownies
• 350 g pitted Medjool dates
• 150 g raw almonds
• 150 g raw cashews
• 50 g raw cacao powder
• 1 g sea salt
• 12 g matcha
• Loose green tea powder from 2 tea bags
• 50 g cacao nibs

1. Place the dates in a small pot and add just

enough water to cover. Bring to a boil for
1 minute to soften, then strain. Using an
immersion blender or food processor,
process the dates until smooth.
2. In a food processor, grind the almonds and
cashews until fine.
3. In a bowl, whisk together the cacao powder,
salt matcha and tea, then stir in the nuts.
Fold in the date mixture and cacao nibs.
4. Line the bottom of a an 8” (20 cm) square
baking pan with parchment paper and
spray lightly with non-stick vegetable spray.
Spread date mixture evenly in the pan.
Freeze while preparing the frosting.

Pastry Arts 133

 Avocado Matcha
Frosting
• 4 large avocados, pitted and
peeled
• 100 g raw cacao powder Anne Lanute
• 200 g agave nectar Senior Pastry Lead Instructor,
• 28 g coconut oil, melted Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts,
• Matcha powder, for dusting www.escoffier.edu

1. Combine all ingredients except for

matcha powder in a food processor Early Influence
and process until blended. Spread Rose Levy Beranbaum – the precision she devotes
frosting evenly over the base. to all her recipes and the way she balances the
Freeze for 2 hours. science of baking with flavor and aesthetics has
2. Slice and dust with matcha before been a tremendous inspiration to me in choosing
serving. to pursue a career in the baking and pastry arts.

Signature Style
Inquisitive and resourceful; I look at ingredient
function first, and then at all the possibilities
for flavor and aesthetics. I love looking at an
ingredient or product and asking myself, “What
can I do with this?”

Favorite Down-Home Dessert

Baked apple crumble, a childhood favorite, but
now I like to top it with sage ice cream.

Inspiration For New Recipes

History – I love scouring historical cookbooks for
ideas on what used to be popular (and available)
and updating them.

Biggest Accomplishment
As a culinary educator at Escoffier, helping culinary
and pastry students realize their own successes
in the industry has been incredibly rewarding.
I especially love when graduates reach out to
update me on what they’ve been doing.

Best Career Advice

Have grit! Learn to persevere through challenges
and be a lifelong learner.

134 Pastry Arts

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Recipe

Rich Multigrain Tart

with Spiced Dark
Chocolate Lassi Mousse
and Fresh Berries
By Dr. Avin Thaliath,
Co-Founder & Director of Academics,
Lavonne Academy of Baking Science and Pastry Arts

136 Pastry Arts

 I ndia is a country that has long been associated with a vibrant and diverse
culture, cuisine and heritage. While the country is divided by states and
union territories, it is united by food. In India, food is all about celebrating
small or big events; it is all about getting people together and having
quality time with the loved ones. Indians love their desserts, however, they
are generally limited to the traditional preparation and presentation style.

Some of the Indian desserts that have become

popular internationally include halwas, kheers
a modern, international appearance. The tart
shell, made with multigrain flour and clarified
and pedas. Halwa is a dense, sweet confection butter, was inspired by halwa, while the
that is popular across the Middle East as well as chocolate cardamom ganache is a nod to kheer.
in India. It is usually made with fresh vegetables, Finally, the spiced dark chocolate lassi mousse
fruits and grains. The dish has travelled a long is reminiscent of the peda. The tart is a full circle
way, covering a lot of southern Asian countries, in shape, which also happens to symbolize
but settled down well in the widespread cuisine eternity according to Indian traditions – a good
of North India. There is no secret ingredient, no omen, we hope, for the coming year.
surprise addition. What you see is what you get
with this simple Indian dessert. Yield: 8 tarts
Kheer, also known as payasam or phirni, is a
type of pudding that is made by boiling milk,
sugar and rice together, although depending
on who is making it, other grains, including
bulgar, millet, tapioca or corn, can be used
in place of rice. In the southern part of the
country it is common to use fresh coconut milk
in the dessert, while fresh cream is a standard
ingredient in the northern part of India.
Cardamom, clove, cinnamon and saffron are
spices that are commonly used to flavor kheer.
Pedas, also known as pethas, were introduced
by Mughals to India in the mid18th century.
Made with milk and sugar and flavored with
cardamom, they are soft and fudge-like and can
be served as a dessert or candy. The dessert
might seem simple, but it involves a lot of skill
and attention to make a truly good peda.
Inspired from these three Indian delicacies,
I challenged myself to create a dessert that is
a perfect amalgamation of Indian flavors and

Pastry Arts 137

 Multigrain Tart Shell
• 100 g whole wheat flour
• 50 g buckwheat flour
• 100 g clarified butter
• 50 g granulated sugar

1. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment,

mix all the ingredients together to form a fine
dough. Wrap in plastic and freeze for 30 minutes.
2. Roll out the dough and line eight 3.5ʺ (9 cm) tart
molds with it. Dock the dough and bake at 320˚F
(160˚C) until done.

1. Mix the yogurt and milk together

Chocolate and whisk it until the mixture
Cardamom Ganache becomes light and frothy. Strain the
mixture and keep aside.
• 150 g fresh heavy cream 2. Over a double boiler, melt the dark
chocolate and allow to cool.
• 5 g ground cardamom
3. Add the melted and cooled dark
• 100 g milk chocolate
chocolate to the yogurt mixture
along with the spices, vanilla and
1. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the fresh bloomed gelatin. Strain the mixture
cream while stirring continuously. Once the and pour it into a spiral shaped
cream is warm, add the ground cardamom and let silicone mold.
it infuse into the cream.
4. Let set in the refrigerator for 3-4
2. Chop the milk chocolate and place it in a clear hours.
bowl. Add the warm cardamom-infused cream to
the bowl and mix well. Rest the ganache in the
refrigerator for 20 minutes. Assembly

Spiced Dark Chocolate • Fresh currants and berries

• Micro greens
Lassi Mousse
• 100 g yogurt 1. Carefully unmold the tart shell and
place it on a plate. Fill a piping bag
• 50 g whole milk
with the Chocolate Cardamom
• 50 g dark chocolate Ganache and pipe it over the tart.
• 2 g ground cardamom Once the Spiced Dark Chocolate
• 2 g ground star anise Lassi Mousse is set completely,
• 1 g ground cinnamon carefully unmold it and place it on
the top of the ganache layer. Garnish
• 2 g vanilla extract
the tart with fresh currants, berries
• 6 g gelatin sheets, bloomed and micro greens.

138 Pastry Arts

 OPEN CASTING CALL
VOCAL ARTISTS • MAGICIANS • MUSICIANS • COMEDIANS
DANCERS • ACROBATS • JUGGLERS • VENTRILOQUISTS
PERFORMANCE ARTISTS OF ALL KINDS!

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Recipe

Lovers’
Dessert
By Leonardo di Carlo

140 Pastry Arts

 C hocolate has
long been
associated
with
Valentine’s
Day and love, and this entremet is a
memorable dessert to mark that special
evening. Layers of chocolate biscuit,
Marsala cream, caramelized hazelnuts
and a creamy milk chocolate mousse
are enrobed in a sweet-tart raspberry
glaze, then garnished with a multitude
of chocolate hearts. It is, literally, a labor
3. Make a ganache with the water, anhydrous
of love! butter and melted couverture. Add to the
egg mixture. Stir gently.
Yield: 1 entremet
4. Pour 1000 g of biscuit mixture on a 16” x 23”
(40 x 60 cm) baking tray and bake at 375˚F
(190˚C) with fan (valve closed) for about 8
minutes.

Dark Chocolate Biscuit Caramelized Hazelnuts

• 92 g all-purpose flour
• 140 g granulated sugar
• 7 g baking powder
• 50 g water
• 247 g whole eggs
• 1 g vanilla bean pod
• 210 g granulated sugar
• 350 g toasted hazelnuts and hot
• 123 g almond powder
• 10 g unsalted butter
• 25 g cocoa powder
• 4 g fleur de sel
• 92 g water
• 
123 g anhydrous clarified butter, melting
point 62˚F (17°C) 1. Cook the sugar with the water and vanilla to
241˚F (116°C), then add the hot hazelnuts.
• 80 g dark couverture 70%, melted Stir over the heat until the sugar begins to
caramelize.
1. Sift the flour with the baking powder. 2. Add the butter and fleur de sel and stir until
2. Whip the eggs lightly with the sugar, then completely dissolved. Pour onto parchment
add the almond powder, flour-baking paper and allow to cool. Break up and store
powder mixture, and the cocoa powder. in an airtight container.

Pastry Arts 141

142 Pastry Arts
 • 131 g 62 DE glucose syrup
Creamy Milk • 25 g gelatin sheets (gold), bloomed
Chocolate Mousse • 124 g cocoa butter, chopped
• 1 g powdered red food coloring
• 248 g fresh full-fat milk, 3.6% fat
• 83 g heavy cream, 35% fat 1. Combine the first five ingredients in a
• 12 g gelatin sheets, bloomed saucepan and bring to 70° Brix. Let cool to
• 
372 g milk chocolate couverture, 41%, 131-140˚F (55-60°C), then add the softened
melted gelatin and chopped cocoa butter and
• 537 g semi-whipped cream, 35% fat emulsify with an immersion hand blender
without incorporating air bubbles.
2. Store glaze in the refrigerator in an airtight
1. Heat the milk with the cream to 104˚F
container; use after 24 hours.
(40°C), then add the softened gelatin.
Pour into the melted couverture and stir 3. Heat to 82-86˚F (28-30°C) before glazing
until a ganache is formed. cake.
2. At 104-113˚F (40-45°C), add the semi-
whipped cream. Pour into a mold and shock Assembly
freeze.

• Chocolate hearts, for garnish

Marsala Cream
1. Place a disc of Dark Chocolate Biscuit on
• 276 g dry Marsala wine the bottom, pipe a layer of Marsala Cream
• 166 g egg yolks on top, then sprinkle with Caramelized
Hazelnuts.
• 155 g granulated sugar
2. Top with a second disc of Dark Chocolate
• 19 g rice starch
Biscuit. Cover with the Creamy Milk Mousse,
• 4 g gelatin sheets, bloomed then shock freeze.
• 180 g unsalted butter, 82% fat 3. Unmold and glaze. Garnish with chocolate
hearts, as desired.
1. Make a custard with the first four ingredients,
then add the softened gelatin and stir well.
Add the butter and emulsify well.
2. Refrigerate overnight at 39˚F (4°C) before
using.

Raspberry Glaze
• 317 g raspberry puree, 10% sugar
• 312 g granulated sugar
• 208 g dextrose
• 134 g liquid inverted sugar

Pastry Arts 143

Recipe

Six-Layer
Chocolate
Hazelnut Tart
By Karla Marro

144 Pastry Arts

 T he challenge behind creating this dessert was the
idea of turning a layer cake into an individual tart.
Anchored by a chocolate sablé shell, the layers of the
‘cake’ are composed of chocolate biscuit, hazelnut crisp
and chocolate cremeux. A chocolate mirror glaze and
candied cacao nibs add a sleek finish to the tart. Make
sure to have all the components made before beginning
assembly of the dessert.
Yield: 8 individual tarts

• 35 g cocoa powder
Mirror Glaze • 85 g confectioners’ sugar
• 250 g water • 55 g whole eggs
• 665 g granulated sugar • 225 g all-purpose flour
• 475 g heavy cream
• 240 g glucose syrup 1. Place butter, almond flour, cocoa powder
and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer
• 70 g trimoline syrup
and, using the paddle attachment, whip until
• 180 g cocoa powder creamy. Add the eggs followed by the flour
• 30 g gelatin sheets (silver) and mix until dough forms.
• 30 g pure olive oil 2. Place the dough between two sheets of
parchment paper and roll out to 1/8ʺ
1. Boil the water and sugar in a pot. thickness, then transfer to the refrigerator
and chill until firm, about 30 minutes.
2. In another pot, boil the cream, glucose syrup
and trimoline syrup. Combine the mixtures, 3. Have ready eight 3 1/2ʺ (8.9 cm) sized tart
along with the cocoa powder, with a hand rings. Cut out 10.6ʺ (27 cm) long strips
blender. and 2.5ʺ (6.3 cm) circles from the dough.
3. Soak the gelatin sheet in a bowl of cold Transfer the cutouts to the refrigerator for
water until soft. Remove from the water and 15 minutes.
squeeze out the excess. Add to the mixture 4. Line the rings with the strips along the sides
and blend by hand. Add the olive oil. Let the first and then add the circle at the bottom.
glaze sit for 12 hours before using. Freeze for 20 minutes. Bake for 14 minutes
at 330˚F (165˚C), with a rotation every 7
minutes.
Chocolate Sablé Allow to cool.
5. Use a microplane to shave the exterior so
• 155 g unsalted butter that they look evenly colored and polished.
• 35 g almond flour Set aside.

Pastry Arts 145

 mat. Bake at 330˚F (165˚C) for 7 minutes.
Cut out sixteen 2.5ʺ (6.3 cm) circles with a
round cutter. Set aside.

Hazelnut Crisp
• 100 g Valrhona Jivara 40% milk chocolate
• 220 g hazelnut praline paste
• 200 g pailleté feuilletine

1. Melt the chocolate with the hazelnut paste.

Add the feuilletine and place between two
silpats.
2. Roll out to 0.12ʺ (3 mm) thick and cut with
a 2ʺ (5 cm) round cutter. Keep in the freezer
until ready to assemble tart.

Chocolate Cremeux
• 100 g whole milk
• 200 g heavy cream
• 30 g glucose syrup
• 75 g egg yolks
Chocolate Biscuit • 125 g Valrhona Tainori 64% dark chocolate

• 160 g whole eggs

1. Bring the milk, cream and glucose to a
• 215 g granulated sugar, divided boil. Temper the egg yolk mixture in. Over
• 55 g all-purpose flour the heat, bring it back up to 180˚F (82˚C)
• 60 g almond flour while stirring. Pour over the chocolate and
• 60 g cocoa powder, Valrhona emulsify. Pour mixture into a doser with a
plunger. Hold momentarily.
• 240 g egg whites
• 175 g unsalted butter
Begin Assembly
1. Whip the eggs in a mixing bowl and add 145
g of the sugar. Whip to ribbon stage. 1. Line up the tart shells. Add a circle of
2. Sift the flour, almond flour and cocoa powder Chocolate Biscuit. Place Hazelnut Crisp on
together, then fold into the egg mixture. top. Pour the cremeux over to cover, leaving
3. Whip the egg whites while gradually adding a small percentage of the rim showing.
the remaining 70 g of sugar. Fold into batter. 2. Fill a slightly smaller ring mold (3ʺ/7.6 cm)
Lastly, add the melted butter. Spread 3/8ʺ with cremeux to height of 0.2ʺ (5 mm). Top
(1 cm) thick into a half sheet pan that has with the second Chocolate Biscuit round.
been lined with parchment paper or a Silpat Freeze.

146 Pastry Arts

 Candied Cacao Nibs
• 100 g water
• 100 g granulated sugar
• 100 g cacao nibs

1. Bring water and sugar to a boil. Pour into the cacao

nibs. Drain and spread on a Silpat.
2. Bake at 330˚F (165˚C) for 12 minutes. Remove,
cool, pack and keep dry and covered.

Final Assembly Karla Marro

1. Unmold the smaller rings (with the cremeux and Pastry Chef, Acquerello,
Chocolate Biscuit). Place them on a glazing rack San Francisco, CA
over a sheet pan and keep them frozen.
2. Melt the glaze in a microwave and bring up to Early Influence
89˚F (31˚C). Mix with a hand blender. Remove the Pierre Hermé.
cremeux from the freezer and glaze them. Place
this layer on top of the tart and decorate with the
candied cocoa nibs around the exterior. Signature Style
Simple sophistication.

Favorite Down-Home
Dessert
Lemon pound cake.

Inspiration for
New Recipes
The changing seasonal
ingredients.

Biggest
Accomplishment
Working as a pastry chef.

Best Career Advice

If you love what you do, just
follow your passion and don’t
give up.

Pastry Arts 147

Recipe

Raspberry
Chocolate
Crowns
By Eric Bertoïa

148 Pastry Arts

 M
y goal here was to create a viennoiserie shaped
as a crown without using a silicone mold. I used
a brioche feuilletée dough, because it has an
amazing taste and texture. I love to work with this
dough, because the smell is so heady; it reminds
me of the fragrance of baked butter that brings
me back to my childhood when I would step into
a bakery shop. I piped a homemade raspberry-
chocolate jam in the center (I like combining the acidity of a fruit with a hint of
chocolate). This viennoiserie is great for a snack, and it reminds me of the ‘gouter’
time when I was a little boy. But what I like the most about this dessert is that you
can duplicate it very easily with different shapes and flavors. The possibilities with this
pastry are endless.

Yield: 22 portions

until the butter is well-incorporated. Mix

Brioche Feuilleteé on 2nd speed for another 3 minutes. The
temperature of the dough at the end of
• 530 g high-gluten flour this process should be a maximum of 75˚F
• 10 g salt (24˚C). Allow the dough to rest at room
temperature for 30 minutes.
• 60 g granulated sugar
3. Divide the dough and keep at 35˚F (1.66˚C)
• 100 g whole eggs
for at least 12 hours.
• 25 g fresh yeast
4. Give the dough 1 double turn with the
• 180 g milk, at 39˚F (3.8˚C) Tourage butter and then 1 single turn.
• 50 g unsalted butter 83% (preferably
Beurremont), cubed
• 300 g Beurremont Tourage Butter 82% (for Bicolor Brioche Feuilletée
lamination)
• 175 g high-gluten flour
1. Combine the flour, salt, sugar, whole eggs • 3 g salt
and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted • 20 g granulated sugar
with the dough hook. Mix on 1st speed • 40 g whole eggs
for 1 minute and then add half of
• 8 g fresh yeast
the cold milk. Add the remaining
milk, if necessary, and mix at • 60 g whole milk, at 39˚F
2nd speed for 7-8 minutes. (3.88˚C), divided
2. Next, while mixing on • 5 g red gel color
1st speed, add the 50 g (preferably Pastry 1)
of butter cubes, mixing • 15 g unsalted butter
83%, cubed

Pastry Arts 149

 to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
3. Divide the dough and keep at 35˚F (1.66˚C)
for at least 12 hours.
4. Run the dough through a sheeter to a
thickness of 4ʺ.

Raspberry-Chocolate Jam
• 230 g raspberry puree (preferably Ravifruit),
thawed
• 355 g granulated sugar, divided
• 5 g apple pectin
• 50 g glucose syrup
• 50 g Cacao Noel 72% Apurimac Couverture
chocolate
• 4 g citric acid

1. Heat puree to 122˚F (50˚C).

2. Combine 20% of the sugar with the apple
pectin and pour the sugar and pectin
mixture a little at a time into the puree, then
add the remaining sugar and glucose syrup.
Cook the mixture to 218˚F (103˚ C). Add the
melted chocolate and the citric acid. Allow
the mixture to rest, then process in Robot
Coupe.

Assembly and Baking

1. Place Bicolor Brioche Feuilletée on top of
the laminated Brioche Feuilletée Dough and
1. Combine the flour, salt, sugar, whole eggs run through sheeter that is calibrated to a
and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted thickness of 4”. Cut the dough into 13” long
with the dough hook. Mix on 1st speed for x 1.5” high rectangles. Place the rectangular
1 minute and then add half of the cold milk. pieces into non-stick metal loaf pans 2” H x
Add the remaining milk, if necessary, and 3” W. Proof at 75-77˚F (24˚C-25˚C) at 75%
mix at 2nd speed for 7-8 minutes. humidity about 75 to 90 minutes.
2. Next, while mixing on 1st speed, add the 2. Bake in convection oven at 320˚F (160˚C) or
butter pieces and mix until the butter is deck oven 340˚F (171˚C) for about around
well-incorporated. Mix on 2nd speed for 16-20 minutes.
another 3 minutes. The temperature of the 3. Brush with simple syrup. Pipe the Raspberry-
dough at the end of this process should be a Chocolate Jam into the middle of each
maximum of 75˚F (24˚C). Allow the dough crown.

150 Pastry Arts

 Biggest Accomplishment
When I became the corporate Pastry Chef
for Daniel Boulud, I was managing and
supervising all the pastry departments of
restaurants and retail establishments all over
the world. I was also in charge of the launches
of all these locations. This included many
aspects: looking for providers, ordering all the
necessary materials, hiring the pastry team
members, creating all the recipes, organizing
Eric Bertoïa the department. Depending on the style of the
Corporate Pastry Chef, Paris Gourmet, restaurant (bistro or gastronomic restaurant)
Carlstadt, NJ and its location and cultural influences,
each time I had to create new recipes that
would fit with the local customers’ taste in
order to make the restaurant a success. This
Early Influence part of the job was extremely interesting,
My family were farmers, and we had property
and I embraced the challenge. It is also very
where we grew an abundance of fruits and
important to nurture a good spirit among your
vegetables. Another influence was the book
teams and have a great relationship with your
The Roux Brothers on Patisserie.
co-workers, because it is teamwork. At this
level, you cannot achieve your work alone. You
Signature Style need to become a mentor to aspiring pastry
I like basic recipes, but I always add a twist. team members and be able to teach them in
The most important is thing for me is the a valuable way what you know, so they learn
taste; the look of the dessert comes second. and progress.
Contrast is also important to show the
dimension in food –contrast in temperature,
texture and flavor.
Best Career Advice
Our job is amazing, but it requires a lot of
patience and motivation. You cannot become
Favorite Down-Home Dessert a good chef overnight, or right after you
Madeleines and Molten Chocolate Cake have graduated from culinary school. The
experience that we gain over the years makes
Inspiration for New Recipes us who we are. It’s very important to be
Everything is a source of inspiration: nature, curious, to learn basic techniques, to practice
seasons, a conversation with my peers, art, a lot, to listen and read about what others
books, magazines, travel, the knowledge of do. All those aspects help us to progress
worldwide culture. When I feel inspired, I and make this job even more interesting.
write down ideas. This helps me to build up My other advice is to not be shy – do not
a concept, an idea in my head. This process hesitate to talk to other accomplished chefs.
can take a few minutes to several days before You are always learning something from the
I come up with a new recipe. Then, I try to experience of others. Never forget that we can
make it. This second step can also take some help each other. Together, we can accomplish
time, because I try it over and over until I’m a lot and make our pastry world evolve. There
satisfied with the result. is always something new to discover.

Pastry Arts 151

Places

Blondery
Brooklyn, NY
www.blondery.com

152 Pastry Arts

Pastry Arts 153
154 Pastry Arts
Auzerais Bellamy
Owner
Company Mission
To provide a safe space to create for people
who are notoriously marginalized within the
food industry.

Signature Product
Pecan and Salted Caramel Blondies –
This blondie recipe starts with chewy
butterscotch-based brownies, layered with
creamy salted caramel ganache and finished
with a layer of toasted pecans—the perfect
counterpoint to the buttery, oozing caramel
and soft decadent blondie.

Secret of Success
Work hard, advocate for yourself, read books,
and hire to your weaknesses. “If you want to
take the island, you have to burn the boats.”

Shop’s Best Feature

Complimentary shipping on all nationwide
orders.

Pastry Arts 155

Places

Hewn
Evanston, IL
www.hewnbread.com

156 Pastry Arts

Pastry Arts 157
158 Pastry Arts
Ellen King
and Julie Matthei,
Owners
Company Mission
Hewn’s mission is to serve Evanston and the
surrounding communities the best grain and
plant-based foods in an authentic environment.
Hewn is a return to a time when a bakery was a
gathering spot and a vital part of the community.
We source local and seasonal ingredients when
their flavors are at their peak. Our foods rely
on peak taste without preservatives, additives
or chemicals. Our bread is unique in the
community because it is naturally fermented
and made with locally grown, organic, stone-
milled flour.

Signature Product
Country Bread and laminated doughs, especially
our Morning Bun and Kouign Amann.

Secret of Success
Our team – no one person is above doing
the dishes! They are resilient, dedicated and
hard working. Also, understanding how to
repair your own equipment. Ellen took HVAC
classes at the local community college, and that
knowledge gained has helped us immensely.

Shop’s Best Feature

Right now – space! We purchased our new
building and renovated it within the past year.
Our larger space has helped us stay safe and
maintain proper social distancing during the
pandemic.

Pastry Arts 159

Places

Red Dessert Dive Houston, TX

www.reddessertdive.com

160 Pastry Arts

Pastry Arts 161
162 Pastry Arts
Jessica Lusk
Owner
Company Mission
We are a funky, fun eclectic bakery in the heart
of Houston’s historic Heights neighborhood,
where locals and visitors can sit and enjoy a
piping hot coffee paired with a decadent salted
caramel brownie while the Rolling Stones rock
out in the background.

Signature Product
Salted Chocolate Chunk Cookies, which are
made with two types of chocolate, including
Valrhona dark chocolate pearls, and topped
with Fleur de Sel.

Secret of Success
We use high quality ingredients, fresh fruit, and
we bake fresh daily. Also, our Heights location
is a huge plus, because our customers love to
support small, local businesses like us.

Shop’s Best Feature

It’s cozy. The bakery is small, warm, and feels
like home. Everything is baked fresh on-site
so, delicious smells hit you as soon as you walk
through the door.

Pastry Arts 163

Places

Pumphouse
Creamery Minneapolis, MN
www.pumphouse-creamery.com

164 Pastry Arts

Pastry Arts 165
166 Pastry Arts
Barb Zapzalka
Owner
Company Mission
To create quality-driven ice cream, one scoop at
a time, by using local and all-natural ingredients.

Signature Product
It depends on the season. Hands-down April
through June it’s our Fresh Rhubarb Ice Cream.
Other months of the year it’s Lemon Infused
Olive Oil and Sea Salt or Local Honeyberry and
Raspberry Crisp.

Secret of Success
Know where you came from and build upon that
to create your own flair. Treat your customers,
staff and farmers like family.

Shop’s Best Feature

The smallness and well thought out space. I
really take advantage of every inch of the shop
to create a welcoming ice cream loving cave!

Photos: Jordan Joseph Witt

Pastry Arts 167

Places

Cacao
Chemistry
Colorado Springs, CO
www.cacaochemistry.com

168 Pastry Arts

Pastry Arts 169
170 Pastry Arts
Sam Lang and
Travis Ashing
OwnerS
Company Mission
Our purpose is to help make the Rocky
Mountain Region a culinary destination, and
to give Colorado Springs residents globally-
inspired chocolates and pastries without having
to travel. We use French couverture with the
highest levels of cocoa butter available and we
pair it with all-natural ingredients using only the
best techniques. We try to keep things simple
but delicious.

Signature Product
All of our truffles shine, but the Whiskey
Cherry Cordial is the star of the show. It has
a dark cherry smoked with cherrywood that
is surrounded with a whiskey cream in a dark
chocolate shell. We top it with edible gold leaf
after we unmold it.

Secret of Success
Our secret to success is our dedication to our
customers and our innovative recipes and
flavor combinations.

Shop’s Best Feature

The local art gallery on our walls, paired with
a friendly smile from one of our owners or
employees.

Pastry Arts 171

 The Bread Bakers Guild of America
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Pastry Arts 172