BY RAMON MORATО

́ , ROLAND KERSTEN & XAVIER GONZÁLEZ

 BISCUIT
1. Dry biscuits (galette, petit-beurre,
shortbread, chocolate-covered
biscuits and other sweet biscuits...)

2. Soft-textured cake (madeleine)

Immerse yourself in this ground-breaking technical study

that lifts the veil on the mystery of biscuits, those crunchy,
melt-in-the-mouth treats that have delighted our taste
buds for generations!

Behind their apparent simplicity lie well-kept secrets... In

this captivating exploration brilliantly led by Ramon Moratо
́ ,
Creative Director Cacao Barry, accompanied by chef Xavier
González, you will take a deep dive into 35 meticulously
designed tests to reveal the impact of each parameter
change on the colour, texture, flavour and functionality of
the shortbread biscuit.

Then let yourself be guided by the technical expertise of

Rolland Kerstan, Research & Development Engineer, who
reveals the subtleties of biscuit preservation and coating.

To conclude, Ramon Moratо ́ offers you a collection of bold

and creative recipes that you can reproduce and adapt
without limits!

2
1 - The Biscuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
The history of biscuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
The biscuit market in France . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
The 3 major trends in 2024 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Biscuit classification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

2 - Impact of ingredients on the

organo-texture of shortbread biscuits . . . . . . 18
Starting point: the reference recipe for shortbread . . . . . . . 20
Impact of the preparation process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Impact of flour and flour substitutes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Impact of fat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Impact of sugar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Impact of liquids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Impact of the raising agent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Summary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58

3 - Coating the biscuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

4 - Storing the biscuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62

5 - The Creative Biscuits Collection . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

Appendices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Bibliography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86

3
 1 - THE BISCUIT

4
THE HISTORY OF
BISCUITS
The story goes that around 10,000 years ago, our nomadic
ancestors discovered the basis of the first biscuits: a mixture of cereals
with milk or water transformed into a dough, subjected to heat, acquiring
a consistency similar to that of unleavened bread, which made them easily
transportable.

In ancient times, biscuits were a simple, flat, hard wafer-like food that was baked twice.
In 3rd century Rome, the chef Apicius called them "Bis Coctum", meaning "cooked twice".

In the Middle Ages, cereal growing became more widespread, encouraging population
growth. The consumption of biscuits spread rapidly, and they became a popular food,
particularly among soldiers and sailors. Biscuits replaced bread on long voyages and were
a more popular choice in the holds of ships because they kept better and were easier to
transport.

During the Renaissance, the Medicis gave the biscuit an elegant and refined status
by introducing it to the Court. It was at this time that the status of the biscuit changed:
previously considered a basic food, the biscuit was associated with pleasure.

To satisfy growing demand, the cooks working in the palaces were tasked with expanding
the variety of biscuits by including more ingredients in their preparation and also devising
new ways of presenting them: savoury, flavoured, filled, with honey, in various shapes, etc.
In fact, many of the basic recipes for the biscuits we eat today were developed at this time,
including wafers, pretzels, crunchy biscuits ...

Over the years, the biscuit recipe was refined and perfected, although until the 19th
century they were still referred to as "conservation" or "travel" biscuits (some biscuits were
even enriched with meat juice to make them more nutritious).

5
 Previously reserved for a privileged few, the industrial revolution made
a major contribution to the democratisation and expansion of biscuits.

The origins of the dry biscuit industry go back less than 200 years, to
England, in about 1815. Carr and Co of Carlisle were the first to apply
mechanical processes to produce biscuits on a large scale during the
industrial development of the period. Others arrived later, such as MacFarlane
in Edinburgh (1817) and Huntley & Palmers in Reading, near London (1826).

Thanks to the good storage qualities of these products, from 1860 onwards, England
exported its biscuits to all its colonies, to France and to all countries with a tea-drinking
tradition (often accompanied by a biscuit).

In 1862, the son of a Bordeaux baker, Jean-Honoré Olibet, imported English biscuit
manufacturing processes to France, marking the birth of the French biscuit industry. Louis
Lefèvre-Utile followed suit in Nantes.

Today, the biscuit has become a popular food found all over the world, with variations
reflecting local culinary cultures.

In France, the industry offers a highly diversified range, both in terms of the types of
products and the characteristics of each, providing consumers with several hundred
different options. However, consumer trends are changing, as are health regulation
requirements, which means that artisan biscuit makers need to adapt constantly in order
to remain competitive despite current constraints (availability of raw materials, labour
costs, investment, etc.).

source: J. Kiger (1951), La Biscuiterie. Pâtisserie and boulangerie industrielles et les produits de régime
Biscuit and cake manufacturers in France

6
THE
BISCUIT MARKET
IN FRANCE

8.19 kg 341 T
biscuits
consumed per biscuits produced
French person per year
per year

€114 €2.41 billion

average
budget per in sales
€ person per
year

80 + 6.1%
types of growth in
biscuit chocolate and
fruit biscuits

Sources: AgriMer study - Biscuit and cake manufacturers in France - Biscuit market 2021 - LSA Conso 2022

7
 THE
HABITS OF THE
FRENCH

time of consumption
consumption home consumption shared moment
Breakfast Snack

CHILDREN 24.4 32% 55% 81% 70%

g/day

ADULTS 23 35% 28% 84% 50%

g/day

For
42%
of children,
afternoon
snack-time
is their
favourite meal

Sources: Biscuit and cake manufacturers in France

8
THE
3 MAJOR TRENDS
Shortbread, galette biscuits, cookies... the French love them all. In 2023, 48%
of French consumers chose to turn to artisan biscuit makers to satisfy their
craving for biscuits*.

Now's the time to expand and differentiate your biscuit range to meet the
three major trends of 2024!

Conscious
pleasure

Intense
pleasure

Allergen-free
healthy pleasure

*source: Barry Callebaut proprietary study - Qualtrics

9
 THE "WINNING TRIO"
OF CONSCIOUS PLEASURE
A GOURMET BISCUIT THAT IS HEALTHY AND
RESPECTS THE PLANET
While biscuits appeal for their diversity of flavours and convenience, health is becoming an
increasingly important concern, and environmental awareness is also gaining ground.

Consumers are increasingly sensitive to the ethical and environmental values and health
claims promoted by products. One of the main consumer concerns is sugar consumption.

41% of
consumers

&14%
prefer biscuits worldwide are
that minimise waste and trying to limit their
using recycled products sugar intake avoid it
altogether
source: Barry Callebaut proprietary study, Qualtrics, 2022 source: Barry Callebaut internal STUDY

65% of European
consumers would like to
35% of European
consumers prefer to buy
have nutritional and energy biscuits from an artisan biscuit
snacks maker to improve their health

source: Barry Callebaut internal STUDY source: Barry Callebaut proprietary study, Qualtrics, 2023

European consumers are now looking for biscuits that contain local,
healthy and eco-responsible ingredients. It's a real challenge to come
up with nutritious biscuits that are tasty, responsible and low
in sugar!

So it's a good idea to respond to this growing demand

by adjusting your biscuit formulations. Including
ingredients such as nuts, cereals, fruit and
vegetables can provide nutritional benefits
while adding interesting flavours.

10
HERE ARE A FEW SUGGESTED
NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS TO
INCORPORATE INTO YOUR BISCUITS:

1. Nuts
Walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts or seeds can be added to provide
protein, healthy fatty acids and fibre. These ingredients can
also add a crunchy texture to the biscuits.

2. Cereals
Use wholegrain cereals such as oats or quinoa to
increase the fibre content. Wholegrain cereals also
offer essential nutrients such as B vitamins and
minerals.

3. With fruit
Add dried fruit such as sultanas, cranberries or dried apricots
for a natural sweetness with no added refined sugar. You can
also use fresh fruit for a juicier, more nutritious option.

4. Vegetables
Experiment with powdered vegetables or purées to add
nutrients without compromising on flavour. For example,
carrot purée can add a natural sweetness and beautiful
colour to your biscuits.

5. Herbs
Lemon balm, thyme, basil, aniseed, fennel, peppermint,
coriander... herbs are often sources of vitamins and
polyphenols that are good for your health.

By incorporating these elements into your recipes, you can create

biscuits that meet consumer expectations for flavour and convenience
while offering healthier options. To captivate this market that cares about
its health and its impact on the planet, make sure you communicate
transparently about the nutritional benefits of your products and
where they come from.

11
 INTENSE PLEASURE
OFFER A UNIQUE SENSORY EXPERIENCE

Today's consumers want to make the most of life and are looking for immersive experiences
that stimulate their senses. Although they have their own preferences when it comes to
biscuits, they're always on the lookout for new products that exceed their expectations.

67% of

66% of European
consumers prefer products
European consumers
prefer products with
multiple colours
with multiple flavours that are visually
interesting

source: Barry Callebaut proprietary study, Qualtrics, 2023 EMEA source: Barry Callebaut proprietary study, Qualtrics, 2023 EMEA

52% of European
consumers go to an artisan 4 go to%theofartisan
European consumers
biscuit maker to biscuit maker’s
buy high-quality premises to try new biscuit
biscuits flavours

source: Barry Callebaut Qualtrics, 2023 source: Barry Callebaut Qualtrics, 2023

Consumer enthusiasm for multi-sensory experimentation shows just how

important it is for chefs to continue innovating in the biscuit sector. Play
around with attractive visuals, stimulating new tastes or try to surprise
your consumers with multiple textures!

Choose ultra-gourmet chocolate-covered biscuits, XXL cookies, biscuits

with a runny centre, peanut butter, caramel, spreads galore....

12
TO INSPIRE YOU, HERE ARE
THE ON-TREND FLAVOURS IN EUROPE:

CURRENT TREND DOMINANT TRENDS DECLINING TRENDS

EMERGING TRENDS

Cognac Nougat Chestnut Pistachios Dark chocolate Baileys

Liqueur Marshmallow Nuts Cacao Cappuccino

Limoncello Coconut Cashew nuts Milk chocolate Mocha

Stracciatella Fig Pine nut Salted butter Cookie &

caramel Cream
Marzipan Cherry Peanut
White chocolate Speculoos
Peanut butter Grape SPICES
Almonds Yoghurt
Coffee Apricot Cinnamon
Hazelnut Blueberries
Tiramisù Strawberry Ginger
Vanilla Cranberry
Brownie Banana
Lemon Dates
Gianduia Mango
Orange Pecans
Pear
Raspberry Honey
Pineapple

Passion fruit

Mint

Bourbon vanilla

Life cycle of flavour trends in Europe

source: Innova for Barry Callebaut - Annual review of the year 2022 in Bakery

13
 ALLERGEN-FREE
HEALTHY PLEASURE
SATISFY YOUR TASTE BUDS
WITHOUT COMPROMISE
The frequency of food allergies and intolerances has been increasing worldwide for the last
thirty years. It is now estimated that 250 million people worldwide are affected by these
disorders. In France, the prevalence of these pathologies is estimated at 2% in adults and 5%
in children, according to INSERM.

This growing phenomenon is prompting industry players to redefine their offer, and a
new generation of healthy biscuits is appearing on the market: gluten-free, lactose-free,
egg-free, sesame-free... with the challenge of remaining visually appealing and delicious!

As a reminder, the 14 so-called 'notifiable' allergens are: peanuts, nuts, sesame seeds,
gluten-containing cereals, soya, lupin, mustard, celery, egg, milk, sulphur
dioxide and sulphites, fish, crustaceans, molluscs and their derivatives (EU
Regulation 1169/2011 INCO on food labelling).

14
IN ORDER TO OFFER A RANGE OF BISCUITS
WITH HEALTH BENEFITS, HERE ARE
ALTERNATIVES TO THE ALLERGENS
FREQUENTLY FOUND IN RECIPES :

1. Wheat flour
It can be replaced by combinations of products such as
rice flour, yellow millet flour, chestnut flour, chickpea
flour, manioc flour, potato starch, etc.

2. Egg products
The main function of egg products in biscuits is
generally to bind and aerate the dough. To replace
these binding agents, you can opt for alternatives
such as coconut oil, potato starch, xanthan gum or
water (egg is 70% water, so you need to make up for
this in your dough).

3. Dairy products
Animal-based dairy products (cream, milk, butter,
yoghurt) can be replaced by rice milk, coconut milk,
vegetable-based creams and butters (oat cream,
margarine, etc.).

4. And don’t forget chocolate

Or cocoa to give your biscuit an extra
sweetness!

15
 BISCUIT
CLASSIFICATION
AERATED* DOUGH
LIQUID DOUGH
SOLID DOUGH

Examples Gaufrette , Crêpe dentelle, PRODUCT WITH A PRODUCT WITH A SOFT

Tuiles, and all the variations CRUNCHY FINAL FINAL TEXTURE
TEXTURE
Jaffa or Pim's cakes, amaretti,
Langue de chat, macarons, meringuettes and
Boudoirs or all the variations
Champagne, Savoiardi,
*Madeleines, cakes,
Biscuits de Reims and
gingerbread (these appear in
all the variations
all the biscuit books but we
don't consider them to be dry
biscuits)

Features • Little development of • Little development of gluten

gluten
• Egg and/or egg white content beaten to incorporate the air
• High water content (eggs,
• Large quantity of water
egg whites, milk, etc.)
• Mixed in stages
• Mixed in stages
• Final dough is easy to portion
• Final dough is easy to
portion

Forming the • Planetary-type machine

dough
• Pastry bag
• Nozzle dosing machine

16
 SOLID DOUGH

1. SOLID DOUGH / HARD DOUGH 2. SOLID / SHORT DOUGH 3. SOLID / SOFT DOUGH
WITH GLUTEN DEVELOPMENT WITHOUT GLUTEN
CRUNCHY FINAL TEXTURE
DEVELOPMENT
Marie-type dry biscuit or similar, Spritz or Viennese shortbread and
Albert-type biscuit, Petit-Beurre Shortbread, Diamond, American all the variations
and all variants biscuits, Damier, Spéculoos,
Sandwich biscuits and all the SOFT FINAL TEXTURE
*Other: crackers, graham crackers
variations Soufflés, Lebkuchen, almond petits
fours (made with marzipan) and all
*(These are the most common
the variations
and widespread biscuits)

• Gluten development • Little development of gluten • Little development of gluten

• Low fat and sugar content • High fat and sugar content, • High fat and sugar content
• All-in-one mixed process • Little water, • Little water
• Very high extensibility and • Mixed in stages • Mixed in stages
colour
• Thick final texture • Soft, sticky texture that's easy to
dose

17
 2 - IMPACT OF
INGREDIENTS
A1 Traditional method A2 Shortbread method A3 Beating method

ON THE
ORGANO-
B4 Cornstarch B5 Special gluten-free mix B6 Gluten-free rice flour

TEXTURE OF
(corn starch, chickpea
flour and buckwheat flour)

THE BISCUIT
C1 Concentrated liquid C2 Dry butter C3 Coconut oil
butter

D1 Caster sugar D2 Sugar + Honey D3 8% sugar

E1 Water E2 Milk E3 Egg white

18
 B1 Strong flour B2 Wholemeal flour B3 Stone-ground wholemeal
flour

B7 Nature Fruitée B 8 Cocoa powder B 9 Ground almonds

cocoa powder Extra Brute
(lean and natural)From the design of the (alkaline)
initial recipe to the development of a
mixture and cooking protocol, including the creation of the
various variables, we generated around 35 final versions.

Each of these 35 versions was reproduced several times

in order to guarantee the repeatability of the initial
observations in all the tests.

All in all, this colossal project involved carrying out over

a hundred tests. Although the results are not definitive,
C4 Less fat (22%) these experimentsChave provided
5 More us with essential clues
fat (40%) Cfor
6 Olive oil and cocoa
understanding the impact of the various ingredients in thebutter
recipe, as you will discover on the following pages.

D4 Less sweet D5 More sugar (30%) D6 Sugar-free

Trehalose (9%) (Maltitol + Isomalt)

E4 More whole E5 Egg yolk F1 Baking powder

eggs

19
 OUR STARTING POINT:
THE SHORTBREAD
RECIPE
As mentioned above, the world of biscuits is vast, and each region, country or geographical
area offers a multitude of variations. It is not uncommon to see similar products under
different names depending on their place of origin.

For our experiments, we chose a simple recipe, using basic ingredients, without flavourings,
that is easily reproducible and recognised by professionals around the world. We've therefore
opted for a basic shortbread recipe, referred to as reference A1, which includes sugar, butter,
flour, eggs and salt.

This basic recipe, used as a

starting point, enabled 49.3%
us, throughout our flour
tests, to adjust, reduce 0.4%
or substitute each key salt
part of the recipe, such as flour,
3.3%
fats, sugars, liquids, and even to whole eggs
integrate other elements such
as raising agents, etc.

15.7%
icing sugar
31.3%
cold butter

Why do

these tests?
The ultimate aim of these experiments
is to understand the impact of recipe
modifications on:
> colour
> texture
> taste

20
OUR
TEST
PROTOCOL
Temperature Preparation
All recipe tests were carried out at an & shaping
ambient temperature of 20ºC (with We blended the fat, sugar, salt, eggs and
the exception of the fat used at a finally the flour. The salt was reduced to a
temperature of around 20/22ºC) and very fine powder for optimum distribution
using the traditional mixing method in the dough.
(with the exception of tests relating to the
Once mixed, the dough was rolled and
manufacturing process).
shaped to a thickness of 4mm. Then we
let it rest in the fridge to allow the fat to
crystallise properly.

The dough was then cut out with a cookie

cutter (the shape of the mould is square
and the sides measure 4 cm).

Baking
The baking was carried out on metal baking trays with a non-stick Silpain® surface on the
base and in a ventilated oven at a temperature of 160ºCwith ventilation level 2, open air
flow and a baking time of 22 minutes.

Baking is a major parameter in this protocol; the aim is to obtain a product with the
following characteristics:
• an open, porous texture
• a reduction in humidity to between 1 and 4
• a change in the colour of the surface.

The degree of baking plays a decisive role: not only does it allow you to adjust the flavour,
but baking the same recipe less intensively produces a sweeter sensation, and the milky
nuances of the butter are more perceptible.
Conversely, by baking the biscuit longer, the colour becomes naturally deeper. In addition,
this intensification of colour is accompanied by a less sweet sensation, with a taste of toast
and caramel on the palate.

As always, the choice of cooking time is a subtle balance, depending on the desired
end product.

21
 PREPARATION
PROCESS

22
TEST SERIES A

TESTS
linked to changes in the preparation
process

The first test we carried out before changing

the ingredients in the recipe was to make three
identical recipes changing only the preparation
process.

A1 Traditional method A2 Shortbread method A3 Beating method

We used the traditional We mixed the flour with We beat the butter with
method, mixing the fat, the fat until we obtained the sugar and salt until
sugar, salt, eggs and flour. a sandy texture. Then it whitened. Then we
we added the rest of the added the eggs and
ingredients. finally the flour.

Reference recipe used for

the study

23
 CONCLUSION tests linked to changes in the
preparation process

The results in terms of colour, texture and flavour

were very similar between the three tests.

In the case of test A3, where the butter was beaten, we

noticed that the final texture of the dough was softer, making
it easier to spread or measure. In fact, beating the butter slightly
increased the temperature of the dough, resulting in a change in
the plasticity of the butter. There is also a slight expansion during
baking, but this does not alter the shape of the biscuit. The texture was
slightly crumblier than in the other tests.

These tests also confirmed our hypothesis that, in this type of product, the low
percentage of water in the recipe and the high percentage of fat and sugar rule out
any possible development of gluten.

The mixing method used definitely had no impact (particularly in tests A1 and A2, where
the final result remains identical).

identical beaten butter =

results softer dough &
crumblier texture

A1 A2
A3

24
 Tests linked to changes in the preparation process

RESULTS
TO TAKEAWAY
COLOURS TEXTURE FLAVOUR FUNCTIONALITY

Cereal Milky notes Egg

Hardness Crunchiness Crumbliness taste Sweetness flavour Raw dough Baked
dough

A1 - reference

A1 - traditional method

A2 - shortbread method

A3 - beating method

All assessments were carried out using the A1 sample as a reference.

Scores range from 1 to 5 (with 5 representing the highest score).

25
 FLOUR

26
TEST SERIES B

TESTS
linked to changes in flour
(and its substitutes)

In the case of flours, we used

the reference recipe A1 and
replaced the same amount of
bulk wheat flour in the recipe
with the other options: higher
protein flour, wholemeal
flour and flour mixed with
cornstarch, cocoa powder or
nuts.
reference A 1

B1 Strong flour B2 Wholemeal flour B3 Stone-ground wholemeal

flour

B4 Cornflour B5 Special gluten-free mix B6 Gluten-free rice flour

(cornflour, chickpea flour
and buckwheat flour)

B7 Nature Fruitée B8 Extra Brute B9 Ground almonds

cocoa powder cocoa powder
(natural) (alkaline)

27
 What is the impact on

colour?
B7 Compared with the A1 recipe, there are obviously differences with recipes
natural
cocoa based on wholemeal flour and those containing darker-coloured cocoa
powder B8 powder.
alkalised
cocoa
powder In the case of cocoa recipes, the alkalised Extra Brute cocoa powder gives a
darker colour compared with the much lighter Nature Fruitée natural cocoa
powder. This is due to the alkalinisation process applied to Extra Brute cocoa
powder, which gives it its reddish-brown colour.

B9 In the B5 recipe with the special gluten-free mix, the presence of vegetable
ground B4 proteins means that the colour is also more intense, as in the B9 recipe with
almonds corn ground almonds.
starch
B2
wholemeal In contrast, recipe B4 with cornflour had the lightest colour in all our tests.
flour

What is the impact on

B6
rice

texture?
flour
= sandy

Recipe B1 with strong flour has a similar texture to the reference A1 recipe
and we have also observed that it loses its shape less. This is explained in
particular by the greater quantity of protein in the B1 test.

We also found that the two recipes using wholemeal flour (tests B2 and B3)
had a more fragile texture than the others.

Recipe B4 with cornflour is more crumbly than the others (the starch B2
reduces the firmness and consistency of the dough). wholemeal
flour
= fragile
The gluten-free B6 recipe based on rice flour is very sandy and the texture
of the rice granules is very present.

Recipes based on cocoa powder are drier, as the cocoa powder competes
with the other ingredients for the water in the recipe. In this type of recipe, it
will be necessary to increase the % of water in the recipe.

B7
cocoa powder
content
= dry
28
TEST SERIES B

What is the impact on

flavour?
Wheat
= complex In B2 and B3 recipes using wholemeal wheat flour, the cereal taste is very
flavours
pronounced compared with recipes using white wheat flour. Wholemeal
flour is made from whole grains, including the bran, germ and endosperm
of the wheat kernel. These components add complex flavours to the finished
product.
Starch
= strong In the case of the B4 recipe with cornstarch, the first tests were carried
flavours
out with 10% starch. If the aromatic notes are too strong, we recommend
lowering the starch content to 5% to reduce this effect, while at the same
time maintaining a crumbly texture.

The B6 recipe based on gluten-free rice flour has a very distinct, even
unpleasant, rice flour taste. The B5 special gluten-free mix recipe gives a
Rice
= unpleasant more balanced flavour.
flavours
In preparations using cocoa powder, we can clearly distinguish the nuances
between the two types of cocoa: natural cocoa(Nature Fruitée) gives a
flavour reminiscent of chocolate, both subtle and more delicate, while
alkalised cocoa (Extra Brute) has a more intense flavour.

The recipe containing ground almonds is characterised by a pronounced

almond flavour, making it possible to substitute almonds with other varieties
of nut powder.
Natural cocoa
= subtle
flavours

What is the impact on

functionality? wholemeal
wheat
The two recipes based on wholemeal flour (B2 & B3) stand out in particular. flour
The fibre in this flour makes the dough much drier when raw (which makes
it harder to cut and handle). We have also observed that in this type of recipe,
it is essential to increase the percentage of water for a better result.

++ water
dough much
drier

29
 CONCLUSION of the tests linked to changes in flour
(and its substitutes)

Flour
The proteins in the flours bind with the water in the
recipe, resulting in firm textures.
When wholemeal flours (B2 & B3) containing a high
percentage of fibre are used, there is competition between
the proteins and the fibre for the small amount of water in
the recipe. This results in a more fragile dough texture because
the fibres prevent the proteins from hydrating. As mentioned
previously, we have no gluten network development, so we don't need
proteins because of their viscoelastic properties.
These observations also explain the grainy, inconsistent appearance of the
rice flour biscuit, as well as its mediocre flavour.

From there, we developed a recipe using a special gluten-free mix (test B5), made
up of equal parts cornstarch, chickpea flour and buckwheat flour. By combining these
three elements, we observed that:
▶ No recognisable dominant flavour emerges.
▶ The texture is not as unpleasant as rice flour.
▶ With the right proportion of protein for people with coeliac disease, these proteins are partially
hydrated by the water in the recipe. As a result the recipe with the special gluten-free mix has a
texture similar to that of the A1 reference recipe.

Cocoa powders
As far as cocoa powders are concerned, the use of natural cocoa generates a flavour closer to chocolate, a
lighter colour and cleaner labelling. What's more, in the case of Nature Fruitée, this Santo Domingo cocoa powder
can be combined with 70% Santo Domingo dark chocolate, particularly when the biscuit is covered in chocolate.
On the other hand, alkalised cocoa powder such as the Extra Brute, which we used in the B8 test, results in a
balanced, more powerful flavour with a darker colour.

30
 Flour change tests

RESULTS
TO TAKEAWAY
COLOURS TEXTURE FLAVOUR FUNCTIONALITY

Cereal Milky Egg

Hardness Crunchiness Crumbliness taste Sweetness notes flavour Raw dough Baked
dough

A1 - reference

B1 - strong flour

B2 - wholemeal flour

B3 - wholemeal
stoneground
flour

B4 - Cornstarch

B5 - special
Gluten-free mix

B6 - Gluten-free
rice flour

B7 - cocoa powder
Nature Fruitée

B8 - cocoa powder
Extra Brute

B9 - ground almonds

All assessments were carried out using the A1 sample as a reference.

Scores range from 1 to 5 (with 5 representing the highest score).

31
 FATS

32
TEST SERIES C

TESTS
linked to changes in fat
content

In the case of fat, we took the A1 reference

recipe and replaced the fresh butter in the
recipe with various options: concentrated
liquid butter, dry butter with a higher
melting point, coconut oil, recipes with a
higher or lower percentage of butter, and
finally a combination of olive oil and cocoa
butter.

Some of these fats contain no water (butter

oil, coconut oil) unlike fresh butter, so we
have compensated for this reduced water
in the recipe. reference A 1

C1 Concentrated liquid C2 Dry butter C3 Coconut oil

butter

C4 Less fat (22%) C5 More fat (40%) C6 Olive oil and cocoa
butter

33
 What is the impact on

colour?
The colour is very similar in all the recipes, slightly lighter in the case
of the coconut fat recipe.
C3
coconut oil

C5
C1 40%
liquid concentrated
butter fat

C6
olive oil

C4
less butter =
What is the impact on firmer, drier and

texture?
crispier

C1
concentrated
We obtain a softer, fattier texture in the C1 recipe containing concentrated liquid butter
liquid butter due to the low melting point. = softer and
fattier
The texture is slightly firmer in the case of butter with a higher melting point
(C2 test).

In the C4 recipe, where less butter is used, the texture is firmer, reminiscent
of a Maria-type biscuit. The firmer texture offers more crispness, but of a
different, drier nature. This crispness is different from that obtained with a
higher proportion of sugar.

The C5 recipe with 44% butter is more fragile, the dough loses its shape
and expands in the oven, reminiscent of the texture of a Spritz or Viennese
biscuit.

C5
fattier = more
fragile dough
that expands in
the oven

34
TEST SERIES C

What is the impact on

flavour?
The C1 test has a very fatty and unpleasant taste in the mouth.

The neutral flavour of sample C3 with coconut oil is remarkable.

Sample C6 has an intense olive oil flavour.

liquid butter =
greasy taste
and feel

coconut oil olive oil =

= neutral intense
flavour flavour

What is the impact on

functionality?
Using liquid butter as in the C1 test is not recommended, as the end result
is a product with a very soft texture that is difficult to handle. What's more,
during baking, the biscuit swells and loses its shape.

The C2 recipe with dry butter offers excellent functionality.

The C3 sample with coconut fat, once refrigerated, becomes very solid and
rigid, making it difficult to cut with a cookie cutter.

The C4 recipe, containing only 22% fat, is drier and it is more difficult to
obtain a dense dough; less than 22% fat is not recommended for this type
of recipe.

On the contrary, in the C5 recipe with a higher percentage of fat (40% butter),
too much or too little
the texture is softer and more difficult to handle, roll and cut. fat = dough difficult to
handle

fat too liquid or too rigid

= dough difficult to
handle

35
 CONCLUSION of the tests linked to changes in fat
content

During this series of tests, we noted the importance of the

melting point of fats. The lower this point, the more delicate
handling becomes, particularly for fats with low plasticity such as
coconut oil. What's more, the coconut oil melts very quickly as soon as
the biscuit is placed in the oven, which can be restrictive (the fat melts
before the biscuit can take shape, resulting in a loss of structure).

These observations prompted us to develop a new recipe based on vegetable fats,

incorporating olive oil. By combining this liquid fat with solid cocoa butter in the
right proportions (80% oil, 20% cocoa butter), we obtain a fat with a texture similar
to butter.

It is undeniable that the unique functional properties of butter, such as its ease of incorporation,
its plasticity, its capacity to be rolled and its reaction during cooking, as well as its taste in the
mouth, remain incomparable.

What is the plasticity of a fat?

This is the ability to spread out evenly
without "tearing", so that the fat is evenly
distributed.

36
 Tests linked to changes in fat content

RESULTS
TO TAKEAWAY
COLOURS TEXTURE FLAVOUR FUNCTIONALITY

Cereal Milky Egg

Hardness Crunchiness Crumbliness taste Sweetness notes flavour Raw dough Baked
dough

A1 - reference

C1 - concentrated
liquid butter

C2 - dry butter

N/A

C3- coconut oil

C4 - less fat (22%)

C5 - more fat (40%)

N/A

C6 - olive oil and cocoa

butter

All assessments were carried out using the A1 sample as a reference.

Scores range from 1 to 5 (with 5 representing the highest score).

37
 SUGAR

38
TEST SERIES D

TESTS
linked to sugar changes

The aim of this block of tests

is to observe the impact of
the granulometry of the sugar
on the biscuit. To do this, we
varied the quantities of sugar
to determine the thresholds.
We then created a recipe with
the same structure, but less
sugar. And to finish, we tested
a recipe without white sugar.

reference A 1

D1 Granulated sugar D2 Sugar + Honey D3 Less sugar (8%)

D4 Less sweet D5 More sugar (30%) D6 Sugar-free

trehalose (9%) (Maltitol + Isomalt)

39
 What is the impact on

colour?
A significant difference is clearly visible in the D2 recipe where 2% sugar has
been replaced by honey, as well as in the D5 recipe where the proportion of
sugar is higher: the colour is more golden and intense.

By contrast, the other tests present similar shades of colour.

reference D2
A1 sugar and
honey

D5
more
sugar

What is the impact on

texture?
The test D1, in which the powdered sugar has been replaced by granulated
sugar, has a crunchier texture. The small amount of water in the recipe
prevents the sugar from dissolving, which has an impact on the structure
of the biscuit.

Sugar plays a crucial role in the crunchy texture, as we see in test D3, where
the sugar is reduced to 8% and the test D5, where it was increased to 30%. D3
less sugar
The higher the sugar content, the crunchier it feels in the mouth. In the = loss of
D3 test we lose the crunchiness when there is only 8% sugar left, with the crunchiness
opposite occurring in test D5 with 30% sugar, where the texture becomes
excessively crunchy, transforming the shortbread into something closer to
a speculoos biscuit. In our experience, to maintain the expected texture of
a shortbread biscuit, the amount of sugar should be at least 12-14% and
no more than 20-22%.
D5
more sugar =
The texture of the other recipes is similar to that of the reference biscuit. more crunch

40
TEST SERIES D

What is the impact on

flavour?
The D2 test containing honey is very interesting: as well as adding colour,
the slight addition of honey softens the flavour of the biscuit, making it very
appealing.

Sample D3 with only 8% sugar results in a tasteless biscuit, as well as a loss

of crunchiness.

honey = sweet D4 test has enabled us to develop a product with a less sweet sensation. 9%
flavour of the sugar in the recipe has been replaced by trehalose, giving a finished
product that is less sweet (note that trehalose is 45% less sweet than sugar)
and all without any loss of crunch, since there is no reduction in sugar.

Finally, the D6 test is a sugar-free recipe in which the sucrose has been
completely replaced by an equal mixture of maltitol and isomalt. These two
sweeteners contain 2 kcal per 1 g, compared with 4 kcal per 1 g for sugar,
giving a lower calorie product. The texture of the D6 recipe is similar to the
reference recipe. But the flavour is a little strange, even artificial (although it
should be noted that this recipe does not contain any type of flavouring to
mask the taste).

less sugar
= tasteless

trehalose = maltitol +
less sweet isomalt = fewer
and just as calories but
crunchy artificial taste

What is the impact on

functionality?
During the mixing, rolling and handling process, we did not observe any
major changes in the different recipes.

changing the sugar

does not change
the functionality of
the dough

41
 CONCLUSION tests linked to sugar changes

Sugar is undoubtedly a bulking agent, giving body and structure

to recipes. It also makes a significant contribution to the colouring and,
above all, the final texture of finished products.

By taking these factors into account, and depending on the final application and
texture required, we can adjust the amount of sugar in our recipes, explore the use of
different types of sugar (such as unrefined cane sugar, coconut sugar, etc.), or develop
products with a reduced calorie content.

The possibilities are endless, and offer huge scope for innovation.

42
 Sugar modification tests

RESULTS
TO TAKEAWAY
COLOURS TEXTURE FLAVOUR FUNCTIONALITY

Cereal Milky Egg

Hardness Crunchiness Crumbliness taste Sweetness notes flavour Raw dough Baked dough

A1 - reference

D1 -caster sugar

D2 - sugar + honey

D3 - 8% sugar

D4 - less sweet
trehalose (9%)

D5 - more sugar (30%)

D6 - sugar-free
(maltitol + Isomalt)

All assessments were carried out using the A1 sample as a reference.

Scores range from 1 to 5 (with 5 representing the highest score).

43
 LIQUIDS

44
TEST SERIES E

TESTS
linked to changes in liquids

In this series of tests, the

percentage of eggs in the
recipe was replaced by other
liquids: water, milk, egg whites
or egg yolks.

reference A 1

E1 Water E2 Milk E3 Egg white

E4 More whole E5 Egg yolk

eggs

45
 What is the impact on

colour?
Each trial produced comparable results, although the recipe containing
milk and egg whites had a lighter final colour, while the one with egg yolks
had a more golden colour.

E2
milk

reference
A1
E5
egg yolk

What is the impact on

texture?
No significant difference.

E1 E2 E3 E4 E5
46
TEST SERIES E

What is the impact on

flavour?
The recipe with egg yolks reveals a slight egg flavour, while the other tests
show no notable differences.

egg yolk =
more intense
egg flavour

What is the impact on

functionality?
The E4 recipe recipe with a higher egg content is slightly softer than the
others, but presents no problems when rolled, cut and handled.

a larger quantity does

not affect the way the
dough handles

but the
result is
softer

47
 CONCLUSION tests linked to changes in liquids

Eggs play a key role in the recipe, providing not only moisture, but also
fat and proteins that facilitate emulsification with the butter during the
preparation process.

This interaction is particularly noticeable in the recipe where water is used. The
addition of water in one of the tests demonstrated the possibility of flavouring the
biscuits with fruit purées, infusions or other liquids.

In addition, recipe E4, in which the percentage of eggs is doubled while obtaining a similar
result, confirms that the percentage of flavouring liquid can be increased by up to 6%
offering new opportunities for the creation of innovative products.

48
 Tests related to changes in liquids

RESULTS
TO TAKEAWAY
COLOURS TEXTURE FLAVOUR FUNCTIONALITY

Cereal Milky Egg

Hardness Crunchiness Crumbliness flavour Sweetness notes flavour Raw dough Baked dough

A1 - reference

N/A

E1 - water

N/A

E2 - milk

E3 - egg whites

E4 - more whole eggs

E5 - Egg yolk

All assessments were carried out using the A1 sample as a reference.

Scores range from 1 to 5 (with 5 representing the highest score).

49
 RAISING
AGENTS

50
TEST SERIES F

TESTS
linked to changes in raising agents

Reference recipe A1 does not contain any

raising agents, but given the common use
of various types of raising agents in biscuit
manufacture, we wanted to clarify this point.

To do this, we carried out several tests in

which the same quantity of raising agent, i.e.
0.6%, was incorporated by varying the agents,
and sometimes in combination. reference A 1

F1 Baking powder F2 Sodium

bicarbonate

F3 Sodium bicarbonate F4 Ammonium

+ baking powder bicarbonate

51
 What is the impact on

colour?
No significant difference.

F1
baking
powder
F3
sodium bicarbonate
F2 + baking powder
sodium
bicarbonate

F4
ammonium
bicarbonate

What is the impact on

texture?
F1
baking
powder

In all the tests, the texture was more aerated than in the A1 reference test,
without the product losing its shape, with the exception of the F4 test.

In fact, the F4 test swelled excessively and lost its shape during baking. Since
ammonium bicarbonate has a greater capacity to produce gas, it is advisable
to reduce its percentage in the recipe to 0.15% to avoid these problems.

F4
ammonium
bicarbonate =
excessive swelling
and loss of shape

52
TEST SERIES F

What is the impact on

flavour?
The flavour of all the biscuits is remarkably similar. However, we note that
tests with a higher pH due to the raising agent used (such as ammonium
bicarbonate) reveal warmer aromatic notes on the palate.

higher ph
= warmer
aromas PH --
PH ++ lower ph =
cooler aromas

What is the impact on

functionality? F4

No significant difference.

F3

F2

F1

53
 CONCLUSION tests linked to changes in raising agents

Raising agents are inorganic salts which, when added to the dough, react to
produce gases. These gases act as nuclei for the development of the biscuit
texture.

These compounds are often added individually or in combination. Most of them leave
residues in the dough, which can affect the pH and final flavour of the biscuit.

54
 Tests linked to changes in raising agents

RESULTS
TO TAKEAWAY
COLOURS TEXTURE FLAVOUR FUNCTIONALITY

Cereal Milky Egg

Hardness Crunchiness Crumbliness taste Sweetness notes flavour Raw dough Baked dough

A1 - reference

F1 - Baking powder

F2 - sodium
bicarbonate

F3 - sodium bicarbonate
+ baking powder

F4 - ammonium
bicarbonate

All assessments were carried out using the A1 sample as a reference.

Scores range from 1 to 5 (with 5 representing the highest score).

55
 Practical information

RAISING AGENTS
BAKING POWDER SODIUM BICARBONATE

Raising agent, baking powder, rising powder Sodium bicarbonate, also known as sodium
or booster is a leavening agent that aerates hydrogen carbonate or baking soda, is the
the dough through a chemical reaction that main ingredient in the baking powder mixture.
releases carbon dioxide.
When used alone in a recipe, in the presence of
It is made up of an alkaline agent, sodium moisture, bicarbonate of soda reacts with any
bicarbonate, and an acid, cream of tartar, citric acidic substance to produce carbon dioxide.
acid or others, as well as a filler, such as flours or
In the absence of acidic substances, heat
starches, which absorb moisture and prevent
can also enable sodium bicarbonate to act
the product from compacting.
as a leavening agent in cooking by thermal
The powder activates when a liquid is added, decomposition, releasing gas at temperatures
producing carbon dioxide and forming bubbles above 80°C.
that cause the mixture to swell.
When used on its own (without the acid
component), either in the dough or using a
baking powder containing acid, only half of the
available CO2 is released.

In addition, in the absence of acid, the thermal

decomposition of sodium bicarbonate
produces sodium carbonate, which is highly
alkaline and gives the cooked product a bitter
taste, sometimes described as "soapy", as well
as a yellowish colour.

So, whether in the presence or absence of

acid, bicarbonate of soda always influences the
expansion of the biscuit.

56
 COCOA POWDER
AMMONIUM BICARBONATE x RAISING AGENT

Ammonium bicarbonate belongs to the When using natural cocoa powders such as
family of raising agents and is an inorganic Nature Fruitée, we recommend using a raising
compound. Under the right humidity and agent such as baking powder that does not
temperature conditions, this compound is alter the pH to avoid alkalinisation of your
capable of releasing gases, thereby increasing natural cocoa (risk of altering the colour and
the volume of the dough. "chocolate" flavour provided by the natural
cocoa powder).
When exposed to heat, ammonium
bicarbonate breaks down completely, releasing In the case of alkalised cocoa powders, such as
carbon dioxide and ammonia. As it is unstable Extra Brute, you can opt for any raising agent.
in damp environments, we recommend storing However, it is important to note that excessive
it in dry places, ideally in an airtight container. use of bicarbonate of soda can lead to excessive
alkalinisation of the cocoa, which would further
Although the smell can be unpleasant in the
intensify the final colour of your finished
solid state as well as in the dough, it disappears
product.
once the products are cooked, provided the
recipes are for dry or low-moisture doughs.
However, it should be noted that an ammonia
aftertaste may develop in the final product if
the recipe is too wet. In many cases, ammonium
bicarbonate is used in combination with
sodium bicarbonate.

57
 B
6
G
lu
SUMMARY

te
n-
fr
C

ee
2

ri
D

ce
ry
bu
tt
er
COLOURS TEXTURE

Hardness Crunchiness Crumbliness

reference
A1 - traditional method
Preparation A2 - shortbread
process method
A3 - beating method

B1 - strong flour

B2 - wholemeal flour
B3 - wholemeal
stoneground flour

B4 - Cornstarch
ne

B5 - special
Flour gluten-free mix
y

B6 -Gluten-free
rice flour
B7 - Nature Fruitée
cocoa powder
B8 -Extra Brute
cocoa powder
B9 - Ground almonds
C1 - concentrated
liquid butter

C2 - dry butter

C3 - coconut oil
Fat
C4 - less fat (22%)

C5 - more fat(40%)
C6 - olive oil and cocoa
butter
D1 -caster sugar

D2 - sugar + honey

D3 - 8% sugar
Sugar D4 - less sweet
trehalose (9%)
D5 - more sugar (30%)

D6 - sugar-free
(maltitol + Isomalt)
E1 - water

E2 - milk

liquids E3 - egg whites

E4 - more eggs

E5 - egg yolk
F1 - baking powder

F2 - sodium
bicarbonate
Raising
F3 - sodium + baking
agents
D

powder
F4 - ammonium
4

bicarbonate
Le se
ss (9
lo
E

sw %)
3

ee
Eg

tT
g

re
w

ha
hi
te

58
 59
ur
flo
ng
ro
St
dough
Baked

1 e r
ut de
B Br w
FUNCTIONALITY

a po
tr a e)
Ex co lin
Raw dough

8 co lka
B (a
d
ho
flavour

M
Egg

N/A

N/A
et 5
m
ng
C
e
té
notes
Milky
l)

N/A

N/A
ui er ra
Fr d tu
FLAVOUR
e ow na
ur p
at a nd
N co a

Sweetness
)
7 co an 2%
B (le (2
t
fa
ss
Le

flavour
Cereal
4
ur C
flo
e
 3 - COATING
THE BISCUITS

60
TECHNOLOGICAL UPDATE ON
BISCUIT COATING
HERE IS THE LIST OF POINTS TO
CONSIDER WHEN IT COMES TO COATING
MACHINES:

Blower
temperature

Ventilated
crystallisation
room

Checking the
temperature
sensors

Cleaning
the cooling
unit
Clogging vs
broken biscuits

Temperature of
biscuits before
coating
°C
Stabilisation of
biscuits after
baking

Biscuit recipes vs. fat

migration (liquid/solid)

61
 4 - STORING
DRY BISCUITS

62
LIMIT MOISTURE ABSORPTION
There are a number of reasons why a biscuit may increase in moisture content (particularly
if you export your products abroad):
• cooking (it must be sufficiently cooked, but not to an extreme degree)
• cooling (temperature and humidity parameters must be strictly controlled)

How to

prevent moisture absorption?

> Cooling under the right conditions
> Watertight packaging
> Possibility of adding a moisture absorber (e.g. silica gel)
> For chocolate-coated products, apply the same temperature and
humidity conditions as those used in the production of chocolate
sweets

The temperature of the room is not the only factor to monitor: the humidity of the ambient
air has an impact on your production.
As the Mollier diagram explains, if the temperature in the room reaches 21°C at 70%
humidity, the air in your cooling tunnel can condense as soon as it reaches 15°C.
The air conditioning of your manufacturing workshop is crucial, so make sure you monitor
and manage air humidity.
A condensation problem in your workshop can lead, among other things, to storage
problems such as:
• the development of undesirable moulds and yeasts
• the "crocodile" effect
• the "Mona Lisa" effect

63
 THE "CROCODILE EFFECT"

The "crocodile" effect means that a layer

of chocolate separates from the biscuit as
a result of the rebalancing of the biscuit's
moisture content.

Recommendation
When the biscuit is cooked, the outside
of the biscuit is drier than the centre.
In general, any remaining moisture will
spread evenly throughout the biscuit
within 24 to 48 hours.
To avoid the crocodile effect, our R&D
experts strongly recommend that you
respect this waiting time before coating
your biscuit.

THE "MONA LISA EFFECT"

The "Mona Lisa" effect refers to the

crackling of the chocolate on the biscuit.
This effect can be explained moisture
absorption in the biscuit. The biscuit
swells, causing the crystallised chocolate
on the surface of the biscuit to crack.

Recommendation
As explained above, it's crucial to prevent
any moisture from being absorbed by
controlling the cooling process of your
biscuit.

64
 LIMIT THE OXIDATION OF
FATS
Oxygen can cause a problem with the oxidation of fats, especially when transporting
moist biscuits (e.g. financier, etc.). The use of oxygen absorbers (iron-based
compounds) is strongly recommended to limit this phenomenon. Packing is
also necessary to limit the amount of air to be treated.

USE EFFICIENT PACKAGING

We recommend heat-sealing your transparent bag containing your biscuits. Ideally, use a
heat-sealed, opaque bag to protect your products from light.

Basic bag with Transparent Opaque

sticker heat-sealed bag heat-sealed bag

OTHER STORAGE ISSUES

Chocolate drops Loss of shine over time by Biscuits become sticky over
melt when taken migration of the oil from the time
out of the oven biscuit into the chocolate (pay (In the example above, the
attention to the type of fat used packaging is stuck to the biscuit
in the biscuit). It's better to use due to the gradual migration
puff pastry butter than oil in your of the oil from the biscuit into
biscuit. the chocolate, softening the
chocolate)

65
 5 - THE
SHORTBREAD
COLLECTION

66
Pistachio, bitter almond, cherry and white
chocolate shortbread. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

Cocoa, hazelnut and orange shortbread. . . . . 68

Earl grey and passion fruit shortbread. . . . . . . 70

Salted caramel and milk chocolate

shortbread. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72

Olive oil, lemon and vanilla shortbread . . . . . . 74

Santo Domingo, raspberry and aniseed

shortbread. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

67
SHORTBREAD
WITH PISTACHIO, BITTER ALMOND,
CHERRY AND WHITE CHOCOLATE
by Ramon Morató, Cacao Barry Creative Director

Ingredients for about 40 biscuits

PISTACHIO AND BITTER ALMOND SHORTBREAD

200 g cold butter

100 g granulated sugar
2.5 g fine salt
21 g egg whites
235 g flour
70 g ground pistachioes
50 g ground bitter almonds
4g Matcha green tea

1. Mix the cold butter, granulated sugar and salt.

2. Stir in the eggs and add the flour, ground nuts
and green tea.
3. Mix until smooth and roll between two sheets
of cling film to a thickness of 3 mm.
4. Once cooled, cut out 4 cm diameter discs and
PISTACHIO GIANDUJA
place on the baking sheet.
5. Bake at 155°C and finish at 90°C before the
600 g Zéphyr™ 34% white chocolate with yoghurt
pastry starts to brown.
400 g Pistachio Praline 70%
8g Matcha green tea
10 g Amaretto
WHITE CHOCOLATE WITH YOGHURT
1. Melt the white chocolate and add the pistachio
praline and green tea.
1000 g Zéphyr™ 34% white chocolate
2. Pre-crystallise at 23/24°C and add the
120 g powdered yoghurt
Amaretto until a viscous texture is obtained for
dosing.
1. Melt the chocolate and add the powdered
yoghurt.
2. Place everything in the grinder and leave
to refine for a few hours until a thin mass of
chocolate is seen.

68
SOUR CHERRY JELLY

500 g sour cherry purée 1. Heat the purée with the pectin and sugar
40 g fresh lemon juice #1.
4g yellow pectin 2. Add the remaining sugars at intervals.
35 g Sugar #1 3. Cook to around 70/75ºC.
70 g Glucose syrup DE 44 4. Set aside and stir a little to break up the
35 g Invert sugar structure before placing it on the biscuit.
385 g sugar #2

PISTACHIO GIANDUJA DISC

400 g Zéphyr™ 34% 1. Melt the white chocolate and add the
white chocolate pistachio praline.
100 g Pistachio Praline 2. Using a spatula, make 3 cm diameter discs
70% for the final decoration.
4g Matcha green tea

GREEN TEA COATING ASSEMBLY 1. Once the biscuits are cooked,

garnish both sides of a biscuit
with a dab of pistachio gianduja
250 g Zéphyr™ 34% white chocolate
250 g cocoa butter and inject a small amount of sour
10 g matcha tea cherry jelly into it.
2. Finally, place a disc of pistachio
gianduja on top, having gently
1. Melt the white chocolate and the cocoa
sprayed it beforehand with the
butter separately.
green tea mix.
2. Add the green tea powder and blend in a
blender, strain and set aside.

COMMENTS
In this biscuit, some of the flour is replaced by dried fruit.
The eggs in the basic recipe are replaced by egg whites to obtain a lighter colour. We
also added a small amount of green tea to bring out the colour. We didn't use any
raising agent because the dried fruit already gives the biscuit a crumbly texture.

69
SHORTBREAD
WITH COCOA, HAZELNUT, ORANGE
by Ramon Morató, Cacao Barry Creative Director

Ingredients for about 40 biscuits

SHORTBREAD WITH EXTRA RAW COCOA

40 g caster sugar
60 g muscovado sugar
200 g cold butter
2.5 g table salt
1 vanilla pods
42 g eggs
250 g flour
32 g Extra Brute cocoa powder
33 g cornflour
1g ammonium bicarbonate

1. Combine the two sugars.

2. Mix the cold butter, sugars, salt and vanilla. HAZELNUT AND ORANGE
3. Mix the flour, Extra Brute cocoa powder, GIANDUJA
cornflour and ammonium bicarbonate.
4. Add the eggs and then the flour. 750 g Extra-Bitter Guayaquil 64% dark
5. Mix until smooth and spread between two chocolate
sheets of cling film to a thickness of 3 mm. 500 g 50 g 100% pure hazelnut paste
6. Once the pastry is cold, cut out 4 cm 10 g grated orange peel
diameter discs and place them on the 250 g Pailleté Feuilletine™
baking tray. 8g Maldon salt
6. Bake for around 24 minutes at 160°C.
1. Melt the dark chocolate and add the
hazelnut paste, Pailleté Feuilletine™,
orange and salt.
2. Pre-crystallize and spread to a thickness
of 4 mm and cut into discs the same size as
the biscuit.

70
 ASSEMBLY

1. Once the biscuits are cooked, place the

Gianduja disc between the two shortbread
discs.
2. Partially coat the biscuits with
Extra Bitter Guayaquil 64%
dark chocolate and place a 3
cm diameter disc of dark
chocolate on top.

COMMENTS
In this biscuit, some of the flour has been replaced by alkaline cocoa powder.
We've doubled the amount of water in the recipe compared with the basic
recipe because cocoa powder absorbs more water due to its fibre content.
The recipe also contains starch to make the biscuit more crumbly. We
have replaced some of the sugar with muscovado sugar, giving it a
more distinctive flavour. We used ammonium bicarbonate as a
leavening agent. In this recipe, the cocoa powder is alkalised,
so it's not a problem if the raising agent raises the pH.

71
SHORTBREAD
WITH EARL GREY TEA, PASSION FRUIT
by Ramon Morató, Cacao Barry Creative Director

Ingredients for about 40 biscuits

EARL GREY - PASSION FRUIT SHORTBREAD

200 g cold butter

100 g caster sugar
2.5 g table salt
42 g passion fruit juice
315 g flour
6g Earl Grey tea powder

1. Mix the cold butter, caster sugar and salt.

2. Stir in the passion fruit juice.
3. Finally, add the flour and tea powder.
4. Mix until the dough is thick and spread between
two sheets of cling film to 4.5 mm thick.
5. Once the pastry has chilled, cut out 4 cm squares
and place them on the baking sheet.
6. Bake for around 24 minutes at 160°C.

OTHER
Alunga™ 41% milk chocolate

72
 ASSEMBLY

1. Coat the biscuits with Alunga™ milk

chocolate and ventilate well with air to
obtain a very thin layer.
2. Finish by adding lines of
extra Bitter Guayaquil dark
chocolate to create a colour
contrast.

COMMENTS
In this biscuit recipe, we have increased the liquid content
from 3% to 6% by replacing the fresh eggs with passion
fruit juice.
For extra flavour, we've also added Earl Grey tea
powder, which goes well with passion fruit.

73
MALTED
SHORTBREAD
WITH SALTED CARAMEL - MILK CHOCOLATE
by Ramon Morató, Cacao Barry Creative Director

Ingredients for about 40 biscuits

MALTED SHORTBREAD

200 g cold butter

60 g raw sugar
40 g malt extract
2.5 g table salt
21 g eggs
315 g flour
SALTED BUTTER CARAMEL

1. Mix the cold butter, raw sugar, malt extract

550 g sugar
and salt.
250 g 35% fat liquid cream milk
2. Stir in the eggs, then the flour. 50 g glucose
3. Mix until the dough is thick and spread 50 g syrup DE 44
between two sheets of cling film to a thickness 4g salt
of 3 mm. 1 vanilla pods
4. Once cooled, cut out 4 cm diameter discs and 1g gelatine leaf
place on the baking tray. 210 g butter
5. Bake for around 24 minutes at 160°C.

1. Dry caramelise the sugar.

2. Deglaze with the mixture of liquid cream,
milk, glucose syrup and salt in which the
vanilla has been infused.
OTHERS 3. Add the bloomed gelatine leaf and cool
450 g Lactée Barry 35% milk chocolate the mixture to 40/45ºC, spreading it out on a
baking sheet.
4. Finally, add the butter and emulsify the
mixture.
5. Put to one side.

74
 ASSEMBLY

1. Place a dab of caramel in the centre of

one of the biscuits and assemble.
2. Cover the biscuits very thinly with the
Lactée Barry 35% couverture chocolate.
3. Make a disc of milk chocolate 3 cm in
diameter, and spray to create a
velvet effect and place it on the
surface of the biscuit.

COMMENTS
In this biscuit, some of the sugar is replaced by malt extract (around
6%). The rest of the sugar used in the recipe is crystal sugar to
give a crunchier texture.
Lactée Barry 35% milk chocolate has been used in this
recipe because it is a chocolate with subtle biscuity
notes.

75
SHORTBREAD
WITH OLIVE OIL, LEMON, VANILLA
by Ramon Morató, Cacao Barry Creative Director

Ingredients for about 40 biscuits

SHORTBREAD WITH OLIVE OIL

138 g olive oil

34 g cocoa butter
100 g icing sugar OLIVE OIL SQUARE BISCUIT
2.5 g table salt
21 g egg yolks
4g beeswax
28 g water
350 g 350 g Arbequina extra virgin olive oil
315 g flour
150 g 150 g cocoa butter
4g baking powder
1 tbsp Zéphyr™ 34% white chocolate

1. Mix the olive oil and melted cocoa butter

and set aside at 4/5°C until creamy.
1. Heat the beeswax and add some of the oil.
2. Pour the mixture into the food processor
If you notice that the beeswax is solidifying,
with the sugar, mix and add the salt, egg
reheat and finish by adding the rest of the oil.
yolks and water.
2. Spread the mixture out to cool to 20ºC.
3. Pour in the flour and baking powder
3. Pre-crystallise the cocoa butter separately
and mix until the dough is dense, then roll
or use a cocoa butter already pre-crystallised
out between two sheets of cling film to a
with Magic Temper.
thickness of 4.5 mm.
4. Combine the two mixtures and blend in a
4. Once cooled, cut into 4 cm squares and
blender until you obtain a liquid texture with
place on a baking tray.
no lumps.
5. Bake for around 24 minutes at 160°C.
5. Pour in around 400 g per 36 x 36 cm side
frame and set aside in the fridge for rapid
crystallisation.
6. Apply a light layer of Zephyr™ 34% white
chocolate to both sides and finish by cutting
out 30mm squares using the guitar cutter.

76
LEMON AND VANILLA GLAZE

300 g lemon juice

1,500 g caster sugar
4 vanilla pods
10 g lemon zest

1. Prepare the lemon juice and mix with the

caster sugar.
2. Add the vanilla and lemon zest, previously
ground in a coffee grinder with some of the
caster sugar.

ASSEMBLY 1. Once the biscuit is cooked, leave

to cool and place the square of
olive oil on top and cover with the
lemon and vanilla glaze.
2. Leave to dry and set aside.

COMMENTS
In this recipe, we've replaced the fat (fresh butter) with a mixture of olive oil and cocoa
butter to obtain a fat with a texture similar to butter but with a pronounced olive oil
flavour.
We have taken into account the fact that fresh butter contains a portion of
water, which is why there is a small amount of extra water in the recipe.

77
SHORTBREAD
WITH SANTO DOMINGO COCOA,
RASPBERRY, ANISEED
by Ramon Morató, Cacao Barry Creative Director

Ingredients for about 40 biscuits

SANTO DOMINGO COCOA SHORTBREAD

200 g soft butter

100 g caster sugar
2.5 g table salt
42 eggs
RASPBERRY FRUIT PASTE
250 g flour
32 g Nature Fruitée cocoa powder
33 g cornflour 750 g raspberry pulp
4g baking powder 52 g saccharose
10 g gelatine yellow pectin
577 g saccharose
1. Mix the soft butter, sugar and salt.
105 g glucose syrup DE 40
2. Mix the flour, Extra Fruitée cocoa powder,
52 g invert sugar (e.g. trimoline)
cornflour and ammonium bicarbonate.
6g citric acid 1:1
3. Stir in the eggs and add the flour.
60 g cold butter
4. Mix to a dense dough and spread 1 tbsp aniseed
between two sheets of cling film to a
thickness of 4.5 mm.
1. Mix the raspberry pulp with 52 g of
5. Once cooled, cut into 4 cm squares
saccharose and pectin.
and place on the baking tray.
2. Boil for 1 minute.
6. Bake for around 24 minutes at 160°C with
3. Gradually add the sugars at intervals.
the fan on low.
4. Reduce the heat when the temperature
reaches 105/107ºC or 75º Brix.
5. Add the citric acid, cold butter and aniseed.
6. Immediately pour 4 mm into the frame and,
once cooled, cover with cling film.
7. Using a guitar cutter, cut 3 cm squares.

78
 ASSEMBLY

1. Once the biscuits are cooked,

arrange the fruit squares on top.
2. Coat the biscuits with 70% Santo
Domingo dark chocolate.
3. Put to one side.

COMMENTS
In this biscuit, some of the flour has been replaced by non-alkaline cocoa powder.
We've doubled the amount of water in the recipe compared with the basic recipe
because cocoa powder absorbs more water due to its fibre content. Santo Domingo
Nature Fruitée cocoa powder has a taste very similar to that of the Santo
Domingo dark couverture chocolate.
That's why, to respect the flavours of this shortbread as much as
possible, we haven't added any vanilla or sugar that might mask the
flavour. The raising agent we used was baking powder, so the
dough would not undergo any pH changes and alkalise the
cocoa during baking.

79
 APPENDICES

80
 DRY MATTER
Test B1 | Strong flour
Test B2 | Wholemeal flour
Test B3 | Wholemeal stoneground flour
Test B4 | Cornstarch
Test B5 | Special gluten-free mix
Test B6 | Gluten-free rice flour
Test B7 | Lean and natural Nature Fruitée cocoa powder
Test B8 | Extra Brute cocoa powder (alkalised)
Test B9 | Ground almonds

Ingredients A1+A2+A3 B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 B8 B9
Icing sugar 15.7 15.7 15.7 15.7 15.7 15.7 15.7 15.7 15.7 14.7
Cold butter 31.3 31.3 31.3 31.3 31.3 31.3 31.3 31.3 31.3 29.5
Flour 49.3 39.9 44.3 44.3 34.6
Strong flour 49.3
Wholemeal flour 49.3
Stoneground flour 49.3
Cornstarch 9.4
Special mix 49.3
1/3 maize
1/3 chickpeas
1/3 buckwheat

Rice flour 49.3

Nature Fruitée 5.0
cocoa powder

Extra Brute cocoa 5.0

powder

Ground almonds 17.7

Eggs 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.1
Salt 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4

The above values are in percentages

Dark lines do not vary

81
 FATS
Test C1 | Concentrated liquid butter
Test C2 | Dry Butter
Test C3 | Coconut Oil
Test C4 | Less fat (22%)
Test C5 | More fat (40%)
Test C6 | Olive Oil and Cocoa Butter

Ingredients A1+A2+A3 C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6
Icing sugar 15.7 15.7 15.7 15.7 17.6 13.54 15.7
Cold butter 31.3 22.9 40.6
Liquid butter 31.3
Dry butter 31.3
Coconut oil 31.3
80% olive oil + 20% 26.9
cocoa butter

Flour 49.3 49.3 49.3 49.3 55.4 42.7 49.3

Eggs 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.7 2.8 3.3
Water 4.4
Salt 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.34 0.4

The above values are in percentages

Dark lines do not vary

82
 SUGARS
Test D1 | Granulated sugar
Test D2 | Sugar + Honey
Test D3 | 8% sugar
Test D4 | less sweet Trehalose(9%)
Test D5 | More sugar (30%)
Test D6 | Sugar-free (Maltitol + Isomalt)

Ingredients A1+A2+A3 D1 D2 D3 D4 D5 D6
Icing sugar 15.7 13.5 8.5 6.3 30
Granulated sugar 15.7
Honey 2.2
Trehalose 9.4
Maltitol 7.8
Isomalt 7.8
Cold butter 31.3 31.3 31.3 34.0 31.3 26 31.3
Flour 49.3 49.3 49.3 53.5 49.3 41.0 49.4
Eggs 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.6 3.3 2.7 3.3
Salt 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.4

The above values are in percentages

Dark lines do not vary

83
 LIQUIDS
Test E1 | Water
Test E2 | Milk
Test E3 | Egg white
Test E4 | More whole eggs
Test E5 | Egg yolk

Ingredients A1+A2+A3 E1 E2 E3 E4 E5
Icing sugar 15.7 15.7 15.7 15.7 15.1 15.7
Cold butter 31.3 31.3 31.3 31.3 30.3 31.3
Flour 49.3 49.3 49.3 49.3 47.8 49.3
Eggs 3.3 6.4
Water 3.3
Milk 3.3
Egg white 3.3
Egg yolk 3.3
Salt 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4

The above values are in percentages

Dark lines do not vary

84
 RAISING AGENTS
Test F1 | Baking powder
Test F2 | Sodium bicarbonate + baking powder
Test F3 | Sodium + baking powder
Test F4 | Ammonium bicarbonate

Ingredients A1+A2+A3 F1 F2 F3 F4
Icing sugar 15.7 15.6 15.6 15.6 15.6
Cold butter 31.3 31.1 31.1 31.1 31.1
Flour 49.3 49 49 49 49
Eggs 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3
Salt 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4
Baking powder 0.6 0.3
BCS 0.6 0.3
BCA 0.6

The above values are in percentages

Dark lines do not vary

85
 BIBLIOGRAPHY

86
 BIBLIOGRAPHY
J. Kiger (1951), La Biscuiterie. Pâtisserie and boulangerie industrielles et les
produits de régime.

Pascal Brunstein (1995), Plaisir de Petit Fours. ISBN 2.950931-0-1

Eric Ortuño (2023), Break. ISBN-13: 978-8412131475

Larousse Gastronomique (1998). ISBN 2-03-507300-6

Barry Callebaut proprietary study - Qualtrics (2023)

Etude France AgriMer, Compétitivité des produits de seconde

transformation de l'industrie agroalimentaire française Synthèse -
Biscuits, gâteaux et pâtisserie industrielle (2019) - Accessible on: https://
[Link]/fam/content/download/66013/document/SYN-IAA-
Competitivite_2de_transformation_BVP_industrielle.pdf?version=5

Les Fabricants de biscuits & gâteaux de France - Accessible on https://

[Link]/

Modèles Business Plan, Les chiffres à connaître sur la biscuiterie en France

(2020) - Accessible on [Link]
marche-biscuit

LSA Conso, Tous les chiffres sur les biscuits sucrés (2022) - Accessible on:
[Link]

A special thank you to Mr. Jeff Oberweis for his availability and
his good advice in the preparation and elaboration of the
presentation made to the Relais Desserts group, which
prompted us to write this document.

87
BISCUITS
AUTHORS
RAMON MORATÓ, CACAO BARRY® CREATIVE DIRECTOR
ROLAND KERSTEN, R&D ENGINEER
XAVIER GONZÁLEZ, CACAO BARRY® CHEF

PHOTOGRAPHER
IVAN RAGA

@cacaobarryofficial
[Link]

BARRY CALLEBAUT France,

5 boulevard Michelet - 78250 HARDRICOURT
Tel.: +33 (0)1 30 22 85 99