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Motor Grader
Round up some maple and walnut
and dig in to this
scaled-down scraper.

W
hether smoothing a path across the carpet, or making Dimensions: 161⁄16"L × 65⁄8"H × 7"W
lines in the sandbox, this blade runner works hard Approximate materials cost: Lumber $35,
Hardware kit [Source, page 10] $14.99
showing off your craftsmanship. The blade pivots and
lifts, but engine noises are up to the operator. A handy kit con-
tains the hardware and specialty parts needed. And check out
the rest of our Construction-Grade equipment on page 9

DP
MD-00904 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2011 Page 1 of 12
 1 EXPLODED VIEW
3" 3"
E 5⁄8 x 1½" smokestack
1⁄16"
¼"
45° chamfer
25⁄8" 2¾" ¼" hole 3⁄8" deep

1⁄8" round-overs

10-32
threaded 2¼" C
rod 4"
¾" 3" long
Headlight D
4¾"
½" 2¼" ¼" chamfer
K J
2¼" 2"
2"
F 5⁄32" shank hole
G 3⁄8" ½" B
¾"
3⁄8" 1"
F
8"
10-32
threaded rod 1"
¼"
2" long ¼"
Q 2"

I A
#8 flat washer 1¼" wheel
¾"
#8 x 1½" F.H.
wood screw
I 11⁄32" hole
10-32
H acorn nut
3⁄8" washer
¾"
3" 2½" single wheel

11⁄32" hole 1" 3⁄8" washer

11⁄32" axle peg 15⁄8" long
#8 x 1½" F.H.
wood screw
2½" wheel

11⁄32" axle peg 15⁄8" long

Filename: 208 Grader

FILENAME:208Grader1_#100673121.ai
Date: 7-11 Lj 3-25, KBPage
4-14,2 CR
of 12
5-15,
Lorna J. Lj 6-8, Lj 7-6,
 5½"

11⁄32" hole ¼"

A ¾"
3⁄8" ½" 4¾"
2¼" 1⁄8"

13⁄8" (Side view)

1a chassis 13⁄8"
5½"

11⁄32" hole
A ¾"
1a CHASSIS 3⁄8" ½"
(Side view) 1b HOOD
13⁄8" (Front view)13⁄8"

1c front axle brace

(End view)
1a CHASSIS 1⁄8" ½"
(Side view)
I ½"
1b hood 1⁄8"
¾" 15⁄8"

1⁄8" 1⁄8" 19°

round-overs round-overs ¼" hole
¼" hole 3⁄8" deep 1c FRONT AXLE BRACE END VIEW
3⁄8" deep
C 2¼" C
¾" 15⁄8"

1⁄8" 1⁄8"
FILENAME:208Grader1abc_#100673122.ai 19°
round-overs round-overs
Date: 7-11 ¼" hole
¼" hole ¼" Lorna J. 3⁄8" deep
3⁄8" deep 4¾"
C 2¼" 2¼" 1⁄8" C

Page 3 of 12
 place the power plant drill out the cab windows

D
C

B
A
A Align chamfer with edge. B
Align the edges of the chamfers and the back end of the Bore through the cab (D) with a 1" Forstner bit. Brace the
hood (C) with the edges and end of the chassis assembly cab against a fence and back out the bit frequently to clear
(A/B). chips.

Begin work at the rear back ends flush. Allow the glue to set for On to building the boom
Note: After cutting and shaping parts, sand
them to 220 grit before assembly.
a few minutes, then glue the hood (C) to
this assembly [Photo A]. 1 Prepare a 1⁄2×6×12" walnut blank. Rip
a 1⁄2"-wide strip from one edge and set

1 From 3⁄4"-thick walnut, cut the chassis

(A) and sub-chassis (B) to size [Draw-
ings 1, 1a]. Mount a 45° chamfer bit in
5 Laminate four pieces of 3⁄4" walnut for
the cab (D) and plane the blank to
thickness [Drawing 1]. Photocopy the Cab
it aside for making the front axle braces
(I) and pivot-block anchor (N). Plane the
remaining blank to 3⁄8" thick and cut the
your table-mounted router and chamfer Pattern from page 11 and spray-adhere it front booms (F) to 25⁄8×83⁄4". Save the cut-
the ends of the chassis [Drawing 1a]. On to a side of the cab. Bore the 1" hole off for the pivot blocks (L).
the chassis, drill the two 11⁄32" holes where
shown.
where shown [Photo B], then rout a 1⁄16"
chamfer around the hole on each face. 2 Retrieve the blank for the inner boom
strip (G) and cut it to match the front

2 Lay out the miters on the front end of

the sub-chassis (B) [Drawing 1], then
bandsaw and sand to the line. On the
Bandsaw the taper just outside the line,
then sand up to the line.
Quick Tip! A short soak peels away
booms (F). Laminate the inner boom
strip and front booms [Drawing 1], keep-
ing one end and edge flush.
bottom face, drill and countersink two
5⁄32" shank holes where shown.
patterns. Apply mineral spirits to the
pattern and it will scrape off easily. 3 After the glue dries, square up the
boom (F/G) blank and cut it to size

3 Laminate three pieces of 3⁄4" maple for

the hood (C). Cut the hood to size
[Drawing 1] and bandsaw the bevel on the
6 Plane a 4×13" maple blank to 1⁄4"
thick. Rip a 3"-wide strip from it and
save the offcut for the control arms (O, P,
[Materials List]. Make a copy of the Boom
Pattern and spray-adhere it to the blank.
Bandsaw or scrollsaw the boom to shape,
back end [Drawing 1b]. Rout 1⁄8" round- Q). Cut the cab roof (E) to size [Drawing saving the cutoff from the bottom edge
overs on all but the bottom edges. Rout 1] from the 3"-wide blank and save the for use later. Drill the 3⁄16" hole at the front
or cut chamfers along the bottom edges remainder for the inner boom strip (G). of the boom, transfer the locations of
of the hood, leaving the ends uncham- Chamfer the bottom front end of the cab parts J and K to the top of the boom,
fered. Drill a 1⁄4" hole 3⁄8" deep [Drawing 1b] roof, and glue it on top of the cab (D), then remove the pattern.
and glue the smokestack [Source] in
place.
centered. After the glue dries, glue and
clamp the cab assembly (D/E) to the 4 Cut the front axle (H) to size and drill
a centered 11⁄32" hole through its

4 Glue and clamp the chassis (A) to the

sub-chassis (B) with their sides and
chassis assembly (A/B/C), centered, and
tight against the hood (C).
length [Drawing 1]. Retrieve the blank for
the front axle braces (I) and rout a 3⁄8"

Page 4 of 12
 notch the yokes the Cutoff fills the gap

Miter-gauge extension

J I

F G

Cutoff
Blank for K

H
K

C D
Using the pattern as a guide, and a miter-gauge extension, Fill the gap below the boom (F/G) with the cutoff to provide
cut a notch in each yoke (J, K). Remove the waste in parallel clamping surfaces when gluing on the yokes (J, K).
repeated passes.

bore through the boom attach a pivot to the blade

3⁄₁₆" bit
K
F G L

J M

E F
With a scrap backing up the assembly, drill through the Glue and clamp the squared-off pivot block (L) in the notch
boom (F/G), using the holes in the yoke (J) as guides. in the blade (M), flush with the back face.

Page 5 of 12
chamfer along 2" of one edge [Drawing Make two photocopies of spare the rod, spoil the glue-up
1c]. Cut the front axle braces to length the Pivot Block Pattern
from the chamfered portion and set the and spray-adhere them to
remainder of the blank aside. the blank. Bandsaw and

5 Dry-fit the front axle (H) to the front

of the boom (F/G), centered side-to-
side. Drill a countersunk 5⁄32" shank hole
sand the pivot blocks to
shape. Note: One pivot
block has rounded back 10-32 threaded rod
through the front axle and a 7⁄64" pilot corners, the other has O
hole into the boom. Glue and screw the square back corners [Draw-
front axle in place [Drawing 1]. Then glue ing 2]. Stack the pivot
N
the front axle braces (I) to the axle and blocks with their ends
boom, centered on the axle’s width. and edges flush, drill the

6 From maple, prepare a 3⁄4×7⁄8×12" 3⁄16" hole where shown,

blank for the yoke (J) and a 1⁄2×5⁄8×12" then remove the patterns. L
blank for the headlight yoke (K). Spray-
adhere a copy of the Yoke Pattern and the
Headlight Yoke Pattern to the proper
2 Cut the blade (M) to
size [Drawing 2a].
Notch the upper edge to
blanks. Cut the notches in these parts match the width of a
[Photo C], drill the holes where shown on pivot block (L). Glue the
the patterns, then bandsaw and sand square-cornered pivot
them to final shape. At the router table, block to the blade [Photo Acorn nut
rout 1⁄16" chamfers around the yoke and F].
O
headlight yoke [Shop Tip, below].

7 Using the boom cutoff, glue and

clamp the yoke (J) and headlight
3 Retrieve the walnut
strip set aside earlier
for the pivot-block anchor G
yoke (K) to the boom (F/G) [Photo D], (N), cut the anchor to Push a length of threaded rod through the forward
aligning them with the marks made ear- size, and drill a 3⁄16" cen- control arms (O) and pivot-block anchor (N) to align
lier. After the glue dries, drill a 3⁄16" hole tered hole through its the pieces during glue-up.
through the boom [Photo E]. length [Drawing 2]. Glue

8 Center the boom assembly (F–K) on

the width of the chassis assembly (A–E),
the pivot-block anchor to
the round-cornered pivot block (L). Let the assembly begin
tight against the cab (D). Glue and screw
the boom to the chassis, and glue the head-
lights into the headlight yoke (K).
4 Make two copies each of the Forward
Control Arm Pattern, Vertical Control 1 Note: Do not use thread locker (see page
7) on the acorn or lock nuts until final
Arm Pattern, and Upper Control Arm Pat- assembly after the finish is applied. Cut a
tern. Retrieve the maple blank for these 25⁄8"-long piece of 10-32 threaded rod and
Now make a moving blade parts (O, P, Q), spray-adhere the patterns use it as you glue the forward control

1 Retrieve the pivot blocks (L) blank,

double-faced tape it to a flat, 12"-long
carrier board, and plane it to 1⁄4" thick.
to it and bandsaw and sand the pieces to arms (O) to the pivot block (L) and pivot-
shape. Drill the holes and rout chamfers block anchor (N) [Photo G]. After the glue
where shown, then remove the patterns. dries, join the pivot blocks with a 7⁄8"

shop tip
Get a handle on the
little things
Attach small project parts to a longer
scrap to keep your fingers a safe distance
from the bit when routing the edges. For
parts with holes (K, Q), add dowels to the Dowels fit
scrap to fit the holes in the workpiece so holes in part Q .
you can easily turn the piece end for end
to rout both ends. Double-sided tape
works well for fastening the part to the
scrap, too. Scrap handle
Also, make a zero-clearance tabletop to Q
support the workpiece right next to the
bit. This reduces chip-out and prevents Zero-clearance
the piece from falling into a too-large tabletop
opening. In a piece of plywood or
hardboard, cut a hole just large enough to
expose the bit, and clamp it to your
router-table top.

Page 6 of 12
 attach the vertical arms Bore to fit the axle

J P
P

Q
L O
M
1¼" wheel

H I
Snug the acorn and lock nuts on the vertical control arms (P) to control Grip the wheels in a handscrew while enlarging
how easily the blade assembly (L–O) raises and lowers. the holes. Rest the wheel on a scrap to prevent
tear-out on the back face.

length of threaded rod, acorn nut, and arms using red thread locker, snugging Produced by Craig Ruegsegger
lock nut [Drawing 2]. the nuts enough that the blade pivots Project design: Kevin Boyle

2 Using a 3" length of threaded rod, and moves up and down but stays in any Illustrations: Lorna Johnson

acorn nuts, and washers, secure the given position.

upper control arms (Q) to the yoke (J)
[Drawing 1]. Slide the 25⁄8"-long threaded
rod from the blade assembly (L–O) and Drip a drop for nuts that stay put
position the blade assembly under the Thread locker goes on as a liquid, then dries solid, preventing nuts from working
boom (F/G). Attach the forward control loose. Choose from blue, green, or red, depending on the application.
arms (O) to the boom, then attach the Use blue on assemblies that need to come apart again. Green seeps along the
vertical control arms (P) to the forward threads between assembled fasteners without taking them apart and locks them
and upper control arms with lengths of in place permanently. Red, below, bonds permanently and is what we used on
threaded rod, acorn nuts, washers, and the motor grader. Apply a drop to the end of a threaded rod before spinning on
lock nuts [Drawing 2, Photo H]. Raise and an acorn nut or lock nut.
lower the blade assembly to test the
action.

3 With an 11⁄32" drill bit, enlarge the

holes in four 11⁄4" wheels [Source;
Photo I]. Test-fit the 11⁄4" and 21⁄2" wheels
to the chassis (A) and front axle (H) using
axle pegs and washers [Drawing 1].
Remove the wheels and all hardware.
Tape off the shafts of the axle pegs and
apply a finish to all pieces. (We sprayed
on three coats of aerosol satin polyure-
thane, sanding lightly between coats
with a 320-grit sanding sponge.)

4 After the finish dries thoroughly,

apply a dab of glue in each hole
before inserting the axle pegs. Reassem-
ble the blade pivot blocks and control

Page 7 of 12
 Q
2 BLADE
P
ASSEMBLY
Low-profile
10-32 threaded rod 10-32 lock nut
7⁄8" long
P

N
Q
3⁄16" hole
O

10-32 10-32 threaded rod

acorn nut 25⁄8" long

10-32 threaded rod

7⁄8" long

Low-profile
10-32 lock nut

2a blade
7"
2" 3" 2"
¼"

M 1¼"

Filename: 208 Grader

208Grader2_#100673123.ai Page 8 of 12
Lj 3-25, KB 4-14, CR 5-
Lj 6-8, Lj 7-6,
meet the rest of the crew

Crane

Excavator

Side-dump
Lowboy

Bulldozer
Tractor

Motor grader

With the motor grader, our Construction-Grade toy collection expands to seven pieces. The
crane (issue 185, September 2008) lifts and lowers its bucket, and spins. Reach and scoop
with the articulated boom of the excavator (issue 194, November 2009). The bulldozer (issue
199, September 2010) raises and lowers its blade. For heavy hauling, the tractor pulls both
the side-dump and lowboy trailers (all three pieces in issue 205, July 2011). The bulldozer,
excavator, and motor grader each fit on the lowboy.
If you don’t own these issues, you can download plans for these projects for a small fee at
woodmagazine.com/cgtoys.
In future issues, you’ll find plans for a skid-steer loader and a dump truck.

MORE RESOURCES The purchase of these plans does not

transfer any copyright or other ownership
interest in the plans, the design, or the
Free Articles finished project to the buyer. Buyer may
neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer
■ Build a jig to help rout small parts: for sale any copies of the finished project.
woodmagazine.com/routsmall
■ Tips for cutting small parts safely:
woodmagazine.com/sawsmall
Free video
■ Learn to drill perpendicular holes
without a drill press:
woodmagazine.com/holes

Page 9 of 12
 Materials List Materials key: W–walnut, LM–laminated maple,
finished siZe
Part t W l matl. Qty. LW–laminated walnut, M–maple.
Chassis and boom Supplies: Double-faced tape, spray adhesive, red thread
locker.
A chassis 3⁄4" 2" 51⁄2" W 1 Bits: 45° chamfer, 1⁄8" round-over router bits; 3⁄16", 7⁄32", 1⁄4",
5⁄32", 11⁄32" drill bits, 1" Forstner bit.
B sub-chassis 3⁄4" 2" 8" W 1
C hood 21⁄4" 21⁄4" 43⁄4" LM 1 Source
D cab 23⁄4" 25⁄8" 4" LW 1 Hardware kit: Each kit contains 11⁄4" wheels (4), 21⁄2"
wheels (6), 12"-long 10-32 threaded rod (1), 10-32 acorn
E* cab roof 1⁄4" 3" 3" M 1
nuts (9), low-profile 10-32 lock nuts (3), #8 flat washers (4),
F* front booms 3⁄8" 21⁄2" 89⁄16" W 2 3⁄8" washers (6), smokestack (1), headlights (2), 11⁄32×15⁄8" axle

G* inner boom strip 1⁄4" 21⁄2" 89⁄16" M 1 pegs (6), and #8×11⁄2" F.H. wood screws (3),. no. 5070,kit$16.49,
Order
Meisel Hardware
RS-00904, Specialties, 800-441-9870, meiselwood-
woodmagazine.com/grader
H front axle 3⁄4" 1" 3" W 1 hobby.com.
I* front axle braces 1⁄2" 1⁄2" 3⁄4" W 2
J* yoke 3⁄4" 7⁄8" 2" M 1
K* headlight yoke 1⁄2" 5⁄8" 3" M 1
Blade assembly
L* pivot blocks 1⁄4" 3" 23⁄4" W 2
M blade 3⁄8" 11⁄4" 7" M 1

N* pivot-block
anchor
1⁄2" 1⁄2" 1" W 1

O* forward
arms
control 1⁄4" 1⁄2" 61⁄16" M 2

P* vertical
arms
control 1⁄4" 1⁄2" 41⁄2" M 2

Q* upper
arms
control 1⁄4" 3⁄8" 13⁄8" M 2

*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.

Cutting H
Diagram *F *L
D D D D
*F *L
A B
* I *N
¾ x 7¼ x 36" Walnut (2 bd. ft.)
*Plane or resaw to thicknesses listed in the Materials List.
J *K *M *O *Q * P

C C C *E *G

¾ x 5½ x 36" Maple (1.5 bd. ft.)

Page 10 of 12
 2½"
L
PIVOT-BLOCK
FULL-SIZE PATTERN

9°
(Top view)

1¼"
R=½" on one
1¼"

part L only

Location of N and O
on top of L
½"
50°
Location of J

3"
¾"

3⁄16" hole
1"

¾"

2¾"
FULL-SIZE PATTERN

89⁄16"
BOOM

25⁄8"
F, G

1⁄16" chamfer

1" hole
Location of K

4"
Location of I

D
¼"

CAB
FULL-SIZE
PATTERN
(Side view)
1"

To ensure full-sizepatterns are correct

size, your printer should be set to print
at 100% (not fit to page). Measure 2"
3⁄16" hole

full-size patterns to verify size.

56°

½" 1" To ensure full-size patterns are correct

¼" ¾" size, your printer should be set to print
1½"

at 100% (not fit to page). Measure

full-size patterns to verify size.

½" Page
1" 11 of 12
¼" ¾"
 O
FORWARD CONTROL ARM
1⁄16" chamfer FULL-SIZE PATTERN

3⁄16" hole 3⁄16" hole 3⁄8"

61⁄16"

½"

P
K
VERTICAL
HEADLIGHT YOKE CONTROL ARM
FULL-SIZE PATTERN 1⁄16" chamfer FULL-SIZE
PATTERN
7⁄32" hole ¼" deep
3⁄8" 5⁄8"

1⁄16" chamfers
1" 1" 1"
3"

4½"
Q
UPPER 3⁄16" hole
CONTROL ARM
FULL-SIZE
PATTERN
1⁄16" chamfer

1⁄16" chamfer 3⁄16" hole 3⁄8"

3⁄16" hole
1⁄8" from 13⁄8"
bottom, YOKE
centered
on side J
FULL-SIZE PATTERN 7⁄8"
3⁄8"
3⁄8"
½" 1" ½"
2"

To ensure full-size patterns are correct

size, your printer should be set to print
at 100% (not fit to page). Measure
full-size patterns to verify size.

½" 1" To ensure full-size patterns are correct

¼" ¾" size, your printer should be set to print
at 100% (not fit to page). Measure
full-size patterns to verify size.

FILENAME:208GraderPP_#100673126.ai
Date: 7-11
Lorna J. ½" 1"
¼" ¾"
Page 12 of 12
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