PROJECTS

24 For the Shop: Bench-top Risers

32 On the Cover: Drop-front Desk
50 Super-simple Rocking Horse
66 Magazine Storage Boxes
75 Clamp Rack

SKILL BUILDERS
28 Avoiding Biscuit-joiner Blunders
34 No-fail Method for Hinge Mortising
40 Make and Install Door and Window Trim
43 Five Trim Tricks From a Pro
52 Making Identical Project Parts
54 Very Easy Veneering
72 Save Money by Salvaging Lumber

TOOLS & FEATURES

8 ATribute to Our Readers
22 Wise Buys: Right-angle Braces
58 25 Best Tool Innovations of 25 Years
64 WOOD's First Quarter Century
69 Tool Test: Tablesaw Tenoning Jigs
78 Shop-proven Products
Oscillating drum sander, quick-set jointer knives, and more.

DEPARTMENTS
6 Editor's Angle
10 Shop Tips
18 The Shop Monkey
Are metal fasteners bad?
83 AskWOOD
92 What's Ahead
 on the web
woodmagazine.com

25 FACTS ABOUT 10 EDITORS

To honor the 25th anniversary of WOOD" magazine, we asked
each of our editors to tell you 25 interesting things about
themselves. For example:
• Which editor thinks he may have too many clamps?
•Which was once adaring young man on the flying trapeze?
•Who had to remove awindow to deliver acommissioned bed?
•Which editor has never tasted coffee or ketchup?
Find out in the "After Hours with the WOOD Gang" blog at
woodmagazine.com/afterhours.

YOU POST PHOTOS/EVERYBODY VOTES!

It's pure democracy in action:
Magazine's
Woodworkers upload photos of
WOODWORKING their favorite projects, and other
woodworkers vote to choose who

SlOWDOWN
ONLINE PROJECT CONTEST
gets a$1,000+ tool prize in each
of six project categories.
You could win! Learn more at
woodmagazine.com/showdown.

ON VIDEO:
MORE ABOUT
VENEERING
After trying your hand at Very Easy
Veneering on page 54, why not take
your veneering skills to the next level?
Download Darryl Keil's Working With
Veneer video ($27.95) from the
Better Woodworking video library at
woodmagazine.com/videos.

NEW! GAllERY OF
WOODWORKING
GREATS
Few woodworkers are household names, but
plenty of top-notch woodworkers deserve
recognition for their work nevertheless. At
woodmagazine.com/wwgreats, you'll get to
know some of these unsung heroes of the
shop and take alook at their fabulous work,
such as this jewelry box from David Selditz.

3
 woodmagazine.com

October 2009 Vol. 26, No.5

We asked our staff: EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
What's the favorite project you BILL KRIER ...
built in the past 25 years? Managing Editor Deputy Editor
.............. MARLEN KEMMET DAVE CAMPBELL

Art Director Senior Design Editor

............. KARL EHLERS KEVIN BOYLE

1 -
.~ .'---' . Techniques Editor
............................ BOB WILSON
Tool & Techniques Editor
BOB HUNTER
, ,
Multimedia Editor Multimedia Editor
The 24x30' garage I con-
structed in 1993. It housed
LUCAS PETERS CRAIG RUEGSEGGER my shop and made possible
the projects I later built.
Design Editor Associate Art Director
The built-in wall unit in my JEFF MERTZ GREG SELLERS ;
family room. Designing it
involved multiple types of Production/Office Manager Administrative Assistant
construction details. MARGARET CLOSNER SHERYL MUNYON

Photographers
JASON DONNELLY, scon LITTLE, JAY WILDE
Contributing Illustrators TIM CAHILL, LORNA JOHNSON, ROXANNE LeMOINE
Technical Consultants BOB BAKER, DOUG HICKS
Contributing Craftsman JIM HEAVEY
Contributing Proofreaders BABS KLEIN, IRA LACHER, JIM SANDERS

SUBSCRIBER SERVICE
Go to woodmagazine.com/help or write to
WOOD magazine, P.O. Box 37439, Boone, IA 50037-0439
Publisher MARK L. HAGEN
ADVERTISING AND MARKETING
CHICAGO: 333 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 1500, Chicago, IL 60601
Marketing Manager AMANDA SALHOOT
Advertising Manager JACK CHRISTIANSEN
Account Executive RYAN INTERLAND
Direct Response Advertising Representative LISA GREENWOOD
Assistant TIM BAARDA
ATLANTA: Navigate Media
DETROIT: RPM Associates
The Shaker mantel Business Manager JEFF STILES
clock I made for my
parents' 50th wedding Consumer Marketing Director TODD BIERLE
anniversary. Associate Director of Marketing-Newsstand TOM DEERING
Production Manager SANDY WILLIAMS
Advertising Operations Manager JIM NELSON
E-Commerce Manager MAn SNYDER
Vice President/Group Publisher TOM DAVIS
MEREDITH PUBLISHING GROUP
President JACK GRIFFIN
Executive Vice President DOUG OLSON
Chief Revenue Officer TOM HARTY
Finance & Administration MIKE RIGGS
Manufacturing BRUCE HESTON
Consumer Marketing DAVID BALL
Corporate Sales MICHAEL BROWNSTEIN
Meredith 3600 JEANNINE SHAO COLLINS
Interactive Media LAUREN WIENER
Corporate Marketing NANCY WEBER
Research BRlnA WARE
Chief Technology Officer TINA STEIL The bar I built of oak and luan
New Media Marketing Services ANDY WILSON plywood, and tempered hard-
Direct Response and Travel PAnl FOLLO board. It has a dyed concrete
The flintlock rifle I top, and a plywood foot tiled to
made from a kit using . match the floor.
hand tools. I hand-
shaped and finished it
to fit the many metal President and Chief Executive Officer STEPHEN M. LACY
inserts. Chairman of the Board WILLIAM T. KERR
In Memoriam - E.T. Meredith III (1933-2003)
Our subscribers list is occasionally made available to carefully selected
firms whose products may be of interest to you. If you prefer not to
receive information from these companies by mail or by phone, please
let us know. Send your request along with your mailing label to Magazine
Customer Service, P.O. Box 37452, Boone, IA 50037-0452.
© Copyright Meredith Corporation 2009. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A.
Retail Sales
Retailers can order copies of WOOD for resale
bye-mailingjennifer.buser@meredith.com
woodmagazine.com 5
 Editor's Ang'------Ie _

This issue marks a quarter century Qf WOOD® magazine serving

the world with woodworking information. It's been quite a ride,
and continues to get more interesting every day.

o be honest, I don't pay a lot of drop-front computer desk on page 32,

T attention to silver anniversaries-

unless, of course, we're talking
about something personal such as my
the classic (but simple-to-build) rocking
horse on page 50, and the file for storing
past issues of the magazine (page 66).
own marriage. In which case I'd better Speaking of past issues, we also chose
not forget it for obvious reasons. So to celebrate our first 2S years with
when the staff and I sat down to plot a something a great many of you have
course for celebrating your favorite requested: a comprehensive indexed
magazine being in existence for 2S collection of past
COlor. It I~ Idea or nuture. years, we decided from the get-go to issues on easy-to-
floors, woodwork and wood, metal Or
fiberglass doors. make it about you, not us. We're not store DVDs. The
Core/Shell Technology provides the deep
going to extol all of the wonderful ad on the next
tones of an oil-based stain with the low things we've accomplished since our page spells
odor, fast drying and easy clean-up of a inception, though you will learn about out the
water-based stain. some of the more interesting milestones particulars
In addition, the Advanced Green Phase on page 64. Instead, you'll find the of this
Resin Dispersion Technology utilizes following: offering.
environmentally friendly resins that
• Page 8 features our small tribute to
result in a voe compliant product.
your incredible faithfulness as readers. What will
With its delicious new colors, Ultra Max It's a fact that you renew your subscrip- the next 2S years
Wood Stain gives you a great look that is
also good for the environment. tions at a rate so high, it is the envy of bring? Your guess is
the publishing world. And we never as good as mine. I do know that as mass
forget that. The best customers in the media continues to evolve, we will meet
world deserve the best woodworking your information needs in any form
magazine anywhere, and that thought you desire: on paper, DVD, online,
drives our work every day. videos, and via new technologies we
• On page 58, you'll find our list of the have yet to dream up. And through our
For more information 2S greatest consumer woodworking Web site, woodmagazine.com, the
or a dealer near you
visit www.ugl.com or
innovations of the past 2S years. With information sharing will be more and
call 1-800-272-3235. - so many inventive and helpful tools more of a two-way street, an even
and trends to choose from, it took the exchange between you, us, and the rest
entire staff's know-how to whittle down of the woodworking world.
the list. Hopefully, you will even find
some solid guidance on what to buy
with those tool bucks burning a hole in Thanks for the
your pocket. If you think we missed a
deserving innovation, though, let me
know at bill.krier@meredith.com.
memories-here's to
many more! .. ~
• We also wanted to design several
projects worthy of this big occasion.
And I think we succeeded with the

6 WOOD magazine October 2009

Sho
Helping you work faster, smarter, and safer

From cutting board to template cutting I

I found the perfect router template
material in-where else?-my kitchen! Top Shop Tip
!
~ l
l~
Those polyethylene cutting boards j

make nearly indestructible templates the cutting board's built-in handle to l~

for circle-cutting, butterfly keys, rout mortises or to make handles in f~
decorative inlay, or slot-cutting.
The boards machine to shape easily
projects and shop jigs.
The best feature of these cutting
iio
5~
using regular woodworking tools and boards: their low cost. I find them for iE
-.- ~ IiI-
blades. Then just clamp one to your
workpiece and rout away. I've even used
about a dollar apiece at discount stores.
-Serge Duclos, De/son, Que.
~ .L!
Recognize the face? You saw it in this
spot in the September 2008 issue. And
I
if Serge Duclos' name rings a bell, it
may be because he is perhaps the I.
world's most prolific tipster: More than
120 of his woodworking shop pointers
have been published. I
!

l
Ii
~

f
I
For sending in this issue's Top Shop Tip,
Serge receives a Dremel prize package
including the Multi-Max, 300 series
rotary tool, workstation, plunge router
attachment, and a bevy of accessories.
An on-the-Ievel solution
for screwy insert~ Top tips earn tools!
After drilling the pilot holes for several
threaded inserts, I ran into a problem. Tell us how you've solved a workshop
When installing them by hand with a stumper. If we print it, you'll get $100
screwdriver, the threads cause the and a copy of 450+ Best-Ever Shop Tips
inserts to go into the hole angled by (woodmagazine.com/450tips). And, if
about S°. your idea garners Top Shop Tip honors,
The solution: I cut a 314" dado I" deep we'll also reward you with a
through a 2x2x3" block of hardwood, tool prize worth at least $300.
and then drilled a 114" hole into the Send your best ideas, along
with photos or drawings and
center of the dado and through the your daytime phone number,
block. With the dado side down, I to: Shop Tips, WOOD
dropped a 3" long 1f4"x20 bolt through Magazine, 1716 Locust
the top of the block and threaded a lock St., LS-221, Des Moines,
nut on the end until about 1jz!' of the IA 50309-3023. Or, by
thread was showing below it. I added a e-mail: shoptips@woodmagazine.com.
washer and then hand-tightened the wrench. The block holds the bolt-and Include your contact info in the e-mail.
threaded insert against it. therefore the insert-perpendicular. Because we try to publish original
With the block flat on the workpiece -Ray Pugh, Benton City, Wash. tips, please send your tips only to
WOOO® magazine. Sorry, submitted
as shown, I thread the insert in the
materials can't be returned.
pilot hole by turning the bolt with a continued on page 12

10 WOOD magazine October 2009 •

 -_ ..-
IllidlAir Sntl.s is
Shop Ti~
Target tips by tool for better organization
Have you ever found yourself thumbing through past
#1 il Dust ellllCdll. magazines trying to find a half-remembered tip? My
solution was to photocopy the tips as soon as the magazine
arrives, and then organize them according to the tool to
' ...... _111111. . . . . . which they relate. It's now much easier to look up a tip.
TIlls S111C11191. Even my woodworking buddies occasionally make use of
my tip library.
Some ofOUr IndustryAwards:
A: ~
~~._:
~ -.-'
I I 1 * **.-:=R
AG ;t.IN5

[II
* *..-*
:***,
_... 9
- * Jill.
-Fred Mandel, Dinsmore, Sask.

~3 Mnted and Mode In lIIe USA.

Bull to Lost AlIletime.

fREE Best. Caltali.
Talk DirectlY to OUr Technical ShdIand Engineers
CJcI.ic RelnJDIs lor Y811 Existing Systems
Secure the bouncing rag box
1.51111II Larger SJstems While finishing some cabinets in my shop, I reached back

ORe SlID _ina

.. All 01 Y. Dust
to pull a heavy-duty paper towel out of its box. Unfortu-
nately, the entire box followed and knocked over the open
container of finish on the way. While cleaning up the
gooey mess, red-faced and frustrated, I resolved to fix the
problem of the bouncing box.
COliectl. Needs.... The result was the wall-hung box holder seen here. If you
mount the box upside down in a high location, you'll be
pulling against the box every time you reach for a rag. And
the box will remain secure down to the very last rag.
-Richard Shahan, Edina, Mo.

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UII.J32AO&5 RW.oneido-oir.com 12 WOOD magazine October 2009.

Cutting corners pays
off for panels Knock off corners of panel.
After a raised-panel split in a cabinet
door, I performed an autopsy to see
what caused the failure. It turns out
some glue squeeze-out froze the
panel corners in place preventing
the wood from contracting without
splitting.
Now, before I glue up my raised-
panel doors, I always knock off the
corners of the panel with a chisel-
just 114" or so to make sure it stays
hidden. I've had no more split doors
since I started doing this because
any squeeze-out can't reach the
panel's corners.
-John Hammen, Kaukauna, Wis.

. Square plug in a round (~1\ (J '1' I f) I r :

hole for reilrilling
To enlarge existing holes, especially FAS1', SIMPLE SHARPENING
large ones made with a Forstner bit
or holesaw, you can't just plug them WII..I.. IJ~AJ) 1'0 MOIU~ PRO.JE(~'I'S
with a dowel and then redrill. Last
time I found myself in this spot, I
realized that the filler plug didn't
necessarily have to be round. A
block of scrap wood does nicely.
Size the block for a snug fit in the
hole, then mark the center of the
block by drawing lines from corner
to corner. X marks the spot for
drilling the larger hole because the
centermark of the block is also the
hole centermark.
-Mike Randall, Ohai, Southland, New Zealand J)jJJJJ
J)!J jj]!Jj~
T1ItI Drill BIt8IulrpBllfll'
Sharpens your dull
and broil. drill bits
• E-Z Align System -
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block tapped - - -
_ in.!Q hole -1

continued on page 14
See our video demos at
woodmagazlne.com 13 www.WorkSharpTools.com
 Shop Ti~
Fast and even
featherboards
I saw your Ask WOOD® piece on
Berea Brand featherboards iIi the Dec/]an
2007/2008 issue (no. 181, p. 92), and.
Pen Kits! wanted to share my method for
making all those cuts qUickly and
• High Quality accurately.
• Original Designs
• Reasonably Pricea First cut several spacers 1/16" thick
VIsit us at www.bereahardwoods.com or
and 6" long. Draw a line down the
call us at 1-877-736-5487 ore-mail us at l!@@O@~W®®ctJ@co.lnc. center of the featherboard blank, and
bereahard@aol.com 18745 Sheldon Rd. Middleburg His., OH 44130 set your bandsaw's fence to make the
first cut down that centerline. Add a
spacer between the fence and the
blank and make a second cut. Then,
flip the board edge-far-edge to make
a matching cut on the other side of
the centerline. Repeat the process of
adding spacers and making matching
cuts to complete the featherboard.
-Fred Noland, Clarkston, Wash.

I
W®DCRAFT@
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QUALITY WOODWORKING TOOLS SUPPLIES. ADVICE@) 14 WOOD magazine October 2009.

Cannibalized clamp makes
a quick-release fence
After hunting for a rip fence small
enough to fit my benchtop bandsaw, I
came up with the quick-release one
shown here. The simple L-shape
scrapwood fence has a cleat at the rear
that drops over the back edge of the
table. On the business end, a set of
brackets holds the bar of a one-handed
bar clamp. I removed the fixed jaw of
the clamp and dropped it between the
brackets. The clamp's cross-pin pulls
against the brackets when the clamp
presses against the table, tightening
the fence in place.
-Vincent Durante, Huntsville, Texas

continued on page 17

woodmagazine.com 15
Shop Ti~
Arrow-straight cuts
for odd-shaped parts
I recently completed a project that
required several irregularly shaped
plywood panels. Although the sides all
had to be straight, there wasn't a 90 0

angle to 1;Je found. Here's the tablesaw

sled I came up with to accomplish the Hardboard
cutting guide
awkward task. aligned with
To make one for yourself, rout layout/cutH nes
channels on the plywood base for the on workpiece
T-track, and then assemble the base,
cutting guide, and hardwood rear
fence. Attach them to the miter slot
runner so the right edge passes just to
the right of the saw kerf. Make a first
pass through the tablesaw to cut the
sled precisely even with the saw kerf.
Add the T-track and toggle clamps:
Layout the cutlines on your work-
piece and simply align the workpiece
with the cutting guide, securing them
with toggle clamps. The cut runs
straight regardless of the angle. •
-Alan Schaffter, Washington, N.C.

woodmagazlne.com 17

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The Shop Monkey
Don't be afraid... he's trained.

Joint Decisions
ooking back on my first projects, meant that as long as the average wood

L they seem like test boards to see

how many metal fasteners I could
drive into a joint.
butcher could drive a fastener, home-
owners and budding furnitureinakers
could build whatever they wanted. No
The more I learned from other wonder skilled woodworkers rebelled
woodworkers though, the more I got and began to hold all-wood joinery in
the impression that "fastener- such high esteem. Cutting those precise
enhanced" joints were inferior to joints-whether by machine or by
all-wood joinery. I started cutting hand-is a mark of accomplishment.
dovetails to hold plywood casework Now that I have experience with
together, and I routinely attempted to most forms of joinery, I think this
use hot hide glue to attach moldings metal vs. all-wood argument is off base.
without the need for brads. It got so Both joinery forms have merit. When I
bad, I started hiding my need for metal build plywood cabinetry, cutting
fasteners from my buddies-I was dovetail joints to join the ..
afraid my work would be carcase has little
considered cheap. if any advantage
Is that really over a well-
the case? executed
Noway. dado joint
Many reinforced
joints so with screws.
common Using a
today- pneumatic
mortise and pinner to tack
tenons, molding onto a
dovetails, and project? I do it all
dadoes-evolved over the time. Pocket screws to
hundreds of years of join parts of a face frame? It's fast,
trial and error and were easy, and strong enough.
traditionally cut labori- Does this mean you should
ously by hand. These joints give up on all-wood joinery? Of
have tremendous strength, and the old course not. In fact, to help keep my
masters used them because wood was skills honed, I try to build two or three
really all they had to work with. projects each year with absolutely no
Metal fasteners weren't out of bounds metal fasteners, just to challenge
back in the 18th century, just out of myself. But for most of my projects, I
reach because of their cost. Forged nails just don't have an issue with turning to
and hand,threaded screws were so brads or screws. I move easily between
valuable, in fact, that old homes were the two forms of joinery, selecting the
often burned down, with the fasteners best of them in turn for their strength
screened from the ash to be used again or ease of use, based on what I'm
in new construction. Using these scarce building. Ultimately, as a skilled
nails and screws in woodworking woodworker friend once told me, "Pick
projects was an acceptable and time- the best method for the situation."
saving skill. Yes, I said "skill." I think he hit the nail on the head. •
However, as industrial processes
improved, nails and screws were spit The Shop Monkey (aka Tom Iovino of Tampa, Flo.)
out by the millions in factories. That blogs prolifically at woodmagazine.com/shopmonkey.
Wise Bu~
Our Editors Test
Why buy?
Right-angle Machining stock precisely is only half the battle in creating projects
with square corners. You also have to assemble and clamp the corners

Assembly
squarely. To do that you need assembly aids that hold those right angles
until the glue dries or you can secure those corners with screws or nails.
We recommend the models below. You also can save money by making
your own braces using the free plan at woodmagazine.com/brace,

Squares
Editor test-drive: I'm n.ot as crazy about the provided
Initially, I was skeptical that plastic clamps, though. They're miniature bar
squares would be durable and accurate. clamps, but different in that the tailstock
Not any more. These lightweight slides along the bar while the headstock
clamping aids proved tough, precise, and remains fixed. These take some getting
helpful as I put them to use in several used to, and they definitely require two
projects. The squares have three features hands to clamp a brace to an assembly.
that make clamping easier. First, the (Rockier promotes this as a one-handed
beveled outside corrler doesn't get into application.) I'd prefer F-style clamps
glue squeeze-out. Second, notches in the with sliding headstocks. I also found that
arms receive the proprietary clamps to . on the notches nearest the corner, the
hold them in place. And third, the 8" clamp bars hit each other. .
models have predrilled holes in the body, -Tested by Marlen Kemmet, Managing Editor
and I used them to screw the.squares to
a plywood base, creating a 90° fixed To learn more:
clamping station. 800-279-4441; rockler.com

Editor test-drive: mating parts true while getting the

Shop-made right-angle braces help get clamps in place. The result: flawless 90°
my projects square and are easy to corners. I also like the predrilled holes in
make, but too often they get banged each brace. With these you can screw
around to the point of becoming them right to a project (if the holes won't
unreliable. So I like the durability of the show), or you can make jigs by screwing
Jevons 3-D squares, with rigid 3116"-thick them onto plywood or MDF. I was able
aluminum angle that holds up to abuse to use any style of clamp with them, so
from clamps and mallets. But their best you don't have to buy special ones just to
feature proves to be accuracy: The use these sqiJares. They're versatile,
6"-long arms are perfectly flat and lightweight, accurate, and affordable.
exactly 90° to each other. Who doesn't need that?
Lately I've been building a lot of -Tested by Kevin Boyle, Senior Design Editor
cabinets and while assembling the
carcases, face frames, and drawer boxes, To learn more:
I found them valuable for holding. 888-923-0023; jevonstoolco.com

Editor test-drive: corners that allow clamping inside or

In the past I struggled with trying to get outside the box without getting into glue
drawers square-even half-blind and squeeze-out. To help assemble a bunch of
through dovetails and box joints-while picture frames, I screwed three squares to
measuring the diagonals and adjusting an MDF jig, guaranteeing three square
the clamps before the glue could set. corners. Then I glued the pieces, placed
Pinnacle's squares eliminate that worry. them in the jig, and clamped the fourth
All I have to do is lightly secure two square against the open corner for
squares in opposing corners (I use small perfect frames time after time. The small
F-style or one-handed bar clamps) to models also worked great for squaring
hold them square, and then add longer the bracket feet on a bookcase.
clamps to pull the joints together tightly. - Tested by Bob Hunter, Tools & Techniques Editor
These machined aluminum squares
(Clamps not proved accurate to within 0.001" of 90° To learn more:
included) over their 6" length. I like the rounded 800-225-1153; woodcraft.com

22 WOOD magazine October 2009

'Quick &: Eas~g

Uplifting
-Benchtop
Risers
You'll wonder how you ever
assembled a project without
these simple, versatile shop aids.

hy settle for a chunk of 4x4

W to lift projects off your bench

when these risers do so much
more? Assemble carcases on them to
create room for clamp heads [top photo].
They provide blade clearance when
cutting pieces with a circular saw or
jigsaw [near right photo], and raise
workpieces to a comfortable working
height when routing an edge. To glue
panels face-to-face, use the risers to
apply pressure across the full panel [far
right photo]. You can even use them as a
step when reaching for items on a
just-out-of-reach shelf.
We used poplar for the tops and To provide clearance for a saw blade or router The rigid risers make excellent clamping
bottoms, and 3/," Baltic birch plywood bit, clamp the workpiece to the risers, and cauls. We glued up this hardboard-and-
continued on page 26 secure the risers to your bench. plywood lamination with only six clamps.

a BENCHTOP RISER I!ICLAMP SLOT DETAIL

SPACERS
% x 4'.4 x 36"
plywood

%" dadoes
deep on
3/8 "
bottom face
oftop
%" dadoes
¥s" deep
24 WOOD magazine October 2009
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Tape the top and bottom together before

drilling holes to establish the slot corners.
Separate the pieces before cutting the slots.

for the spacers, but any solid stock or

plywood will do.
Start by cutting the parts to size
[Drawing 1, page 24]. Then, to create'
the clamp slots, layout on each top
Enjoy All the Creature Comforts piece the centerpoints for the holes
that create the corners of each slot
with Radiant FJoor Heating [Drawing 1a]. Note: As shown, the
l"-wide slots accept the head ofan
F-style bar clamp. You can make the
slots as wide as the distance between the
spacers, if you like. Set up a 1/z" bit in
your drill press, and position the
fence to align the bit over a center-
point; then drill out the corners on
one side of each slot [photo above].
Rotate the boards end for end, and
drill the remaining corners. To
complete the slots, separate the
pieces, draw lines connecting the
outside edges of the holes, and cut
along the lines with a jigsaw. Sand
the edges smooth.
Rout lis" round-overs around the
top and bottom of each slot and
along the tops and bottoms where
shown. Then plow out the grooves in
the tops and bottoms to accept the
spacers, and glue and clamp the risers
together. Keep the risers near your
bench; you'll reach for them time
and time again. •
Project design: Bob Wey, Westford, Mass.

26 WOOD magazine October 2009

.Avoidin Worksho
Break Free From

Biscuit
Blunders
Biscuit joints are simple to cut, but
difficult to fix when done wrong. Here's
how to avoid the most common mistakes.

T hinking ahead pays off when joining work-

pieces with biscuits. By properly positioning
your slots you'll enjoy perfect-fitting joints
every time. Regardless, remember the best tip for all
biscuit applications: Make test cuts on scrap pieces
before cutting the real thing. Now, keep these solu-
tions in mind.

Mistake #1:
Exposed biscuit slots
<;;:utting through the face of a work-
piece's beveled end, as shown above
right, causes damage nearly impossible
to repair. This goof happens when you
cut a slot for a large (#20) biscuit at the.
midpoint of the bevel in %"-thick stock.
• Solution: Avoid this mistake by
cutting the slot closer to the inside
corner of the beveled end. To do this,
adjust your joiner's fence, as shown at
right. This allows you to still use a #20 -
biscuit without cutting through the
face. (You should always use the largest
For beveled joints in 3f4" stock, set the fence By making the fence adjustment without
biscuit possible for maximum holding height at 3f4"to move the slot'c1oser to the changing biscuit size, we were able to cut an
power.) inside corner. ideal slot into the top workpiece.

Mistake #2: Mating

surfaces misaligned
If the mating biscuit slots you cut
don't match up perfectly, the work-
piece surfaces will not be flush, as
shown at right. •
• Solution: First, reference your cuts
from the same workpiece surface (the
top face). Second, don't use your joiner's
base and fence together for alignment
when cutting the slots; both might not
make parallel contact, resulting in
uneven slots. Instead, reference your
cuts either with the base resting on the
benchtop or worksurface, as shown at This hardwood edging doesn't align with the Correctly machine slots by raising the fence
far right, or with the fence resting on panel because the paneland edging slots out of the way and then resting the joiner's
the face of the workpiece. were cut from different reference surfaces. base on a flat worksurface.
continued on page 30
28 WOOD magazine October 2009
Avoiding Workshop Goofs
Mistake #3: Crooked or unsquare slots
The start-up torque of a joiner can piece-right on the line for the bottom
cause it to lurch when powered up. of the mating board-and use that as
Resulting slots might be unsquare, as a reference point for the joiner, as
shown below. shown below. To counteract the lurch-
• Solution: Never make field cuts (in ing, start the motor and then line up
the interior of a workpiece) freehand. the joiner with the mark before
Instead, clamp a stop to your work- . plunging to make the cut.

The biscuit joiner cut this slot unsquare to Resting the joiner's base against the clamped
the edge because it strayed from the marks stop not only steadies the tool but also
when the motor engaged. ensures a slot square to the edges.

Mistake #4: Exposed biscuits

It's easy to forget where you
positioned the biscuits in an
edge-glued workpiece. This can
lead to cutting into them when i
machining a profile, as shown
at right.
• Solution: Simply put, plan
ahead. If you know you're
going to machine the edges
and ends of a panel, be sure to
locate the biscuits far enough
from the edges and ends so There's not much you can do to save this panel. Build
they won't be exposed. another one and place the biscuits farther from the ends.

Mistake #5: Glue-line depressions

Even though biscuit joints are DIMPLES MIGHT BE CUTE,
strong enough to unclamp BUT NOT ON JOINED BOARDS
after a couple of hours, planing
or sanding these workpieces
right away could result in
scooped recesses over the
biscuits. Why? The glue around
the biscuit causes the wood to
swell slightly. Machining off
these temporary "humps"
results in shallow depressions
once the glue fully dries, as
shown at right.
• Solution: Allow your
glued-up workpieces to dry for
24 hours before machining. This cutaway of a glued-up panel-planed before the
The humps will have shrunk glue around the biscuits dried-reveals the recessed area,
back to normal size by then. • which will be more noticeable under a high-gloss finish.

30 WOOD magazine October 2009

Drop-Front Desk
reate striking panels like the one

C on the desk's door (below) by just

gluing veneer to MDF-no vac-
uum veneer bags or special equipment
required. The article on page 54 shows
how, but you could skip this step and
use cherry plywood. (We used cherry
veneer on the inside faces and dressed
up the outsides with sapele pommele.)
The thickness of the panels deter-
mines setups for cutting joinery. So if
you choose to use veneer on your desk,
start by making veneered panels for the
top and bottom (C), sides (H), door (K),
and back (M) [Materials List, page 38].

Make the case assemblies

and an oversize door
1 Start off by cutting
fronts (A), backs (B),
top/bottom panels (C) to
the
and
size
[Materials List]. Glue up the

Veneer, including a
book-match on the
door, creates eye-
catching panels.

PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS
• Overall dimensions are 24W wide x
16" deep x 5014" high.
• Materials needed: Cherry, MDF and
veneer or cherry plywood.
• Choose from dozens of types of
veneers for the perfect look.

WOOD magazine October 2009

pieces, keeping the ends and inside faces
flush [Drawing 1]. After the glue dries,
sand the assembly to 220 grit. Set these
assemblies aside for the time being.

2 RiP %"-thick stock to width for the

front stiles (D), back stiles (E), top
rails (F), and bottom rails (G) [Drawing
2]. Crosscut the rails to finished length,
but crosscut the stiles W' longer than
listed. Trim the panels (H) to size. Next,
rip the door stiles (I) and rails m Ys"
overwidth [Drawing 1]. Crosscut the rails
to finished length and the stiles :jIs" lon-
ger than listed. Then, cut the door panel
(K) to size. Set up a W' dado blade W' above the table. Use the groove in a rail (F) to set the dado
Place a panel (H) against the fence, and align blade height. Align the highest point of the

3 The inside faces of the side and door the face with the outside edge of a tooth.
panels (H, K) sit flush with the inside
faces of the frames.
teeth with the low edge of the groove.

On the door, this

DTOP ASSEMBLY
provides a ~mooth
writing surface.
Using a side panel
(H), set up the 34° bevel
tablesaw as shown
'y,o" hole, countersunk on bottom face
in Photo A. Mark
the outside face of
* Location of grooves and rabbet
each stile (D, E, I) depth based on panel thickness.
and rail (F, G, J).
Then, with the
ma'rk facing away
from the fence, cut 5,1,6" magnetic catch
a groove along one *\4" rabbets ~
edge of each rail on back face
and stile. Also cut a 5116" hole
groove in the inside Sfs" deep, centered
faces of the back
stiles (E) and top/ Chain support
bottom panel backs
(B) [Drawing 1].

4 NOW start cut-

ting stub tenons
on the rails (F, G, J)
'12' hole Yt6" deep

to fit the grooves.

To do this, place a
rail next to the
blade with the out-
side (marked) face
up and adjust the
blade to align with
the groove [Photo 18"
B]. Reposition the
Il!IHINGE MORTISE DETAIL *\4" rabbets
rip fence and, with 2 x 2" brass hinge
the outside face up, rf )
cut a 1I.l"-wide rab-
bet along each end II!ITOP SLOT DETAIL IITOP EDGE DETAIL
of each rail [Photo
C]. With the same ~."...........,...,..,.,---~~--.t
setup, cut a rabbet V4"
around the side and
door panels (H, K)
1
[Drawings 1, 2]. 34°

5 Reset the blade

height using the
¥16" holes

woodmagazlne.com 33
With the blade set the same height as the
•
Use the bottom assembly (A/B/C) to position Fit a scrap of '.4" hardboard or plywood
bottom of the groove, cut a rabbet on the the rip fence before cutting the '.4x'.4" top and between the panel front (A) and back (B) to
inside face on both ends of each rail (F, G, J). bottom grooves in the side assemblies (O-H). back up the inside edge and stop chip-out.

same method as before, this time with a BSIDE ASSEMBLY

rail outside face down. Cut a rabbet on
each end of the rails (F, G, J) to complete
the stub tenons [Drawings 1, 2a].

6 DrY-fit the side top rails (F), bottom

rails (G), and panels (H). Crosscut
the front and back stiles (D, E) to match
E!lSIDEPANEL
TENON DETAILS
*1J411
the height of the F/G/H assembly. Do
the same with the door rails m
and
panel (K) to determine the door stile (I)
length, and cut them.

7 sand all parts to 220 grit; then glue

up the side assemblies (D-H) and the
door (I/J/K). The door will be cut to final
size later. 11
2%" "-"'_..-=-""-
*V4 groove lA,".
14" deep l'
Complete the case joinery cut after T
panel assembly
1 Set up the tablesaw as shown in
Photo D. Then cut the grooves across
the tops and bottoms of the side assem- * Location of grooves and rabbet *'.4" grooves '.4" deep
depth based on panel thickness.
blies (D-H) [Drawings 1, 2].

Jig guarantees perfect-

fitting hinge mortises
With a few pieces of plywood or MDF
and a dado-cleaning bit [right photo],
you can rout mortises that fit hinges
like a hand in a glove.
Start by cutting two 2x24" strips of
the plywood or MDF. Then cut a
14"-long strip and two 5"-long pieces
the same width as an opened hinge.
Across the three longest pieces, draw
lines centered on their lengths. Center
®
the width of the 14" piece on the joint Center middle
line between the door (I/J/K) and piece on
bottom assembly (A/B/C), and align joint line.
the centerline with centerlines on the
two assemblies [left photo]. Add the I
two longest jig pieces, aligning the hinges next to the jig, tape the short jig Rout recesses the depth of a hinge
centerlines, and secure these three jig pieces in place next to the hinges, then leaf with a dado-cleaning bit, then
parts with double-faced tape. Nest the remove the hinges. square up the corners [above photo].

34 WOOD magazine October 2009

Placing a side assembly (D-H) on risers allows Secure the chain to the door stile (I), then use By clamping each cubby (O/P) to a squaring
room for clamp heads. Identical diagonal a scrap cut at 45° to locate the other end of brace clamped to your bench, the assembly
measurements mean the case is square. the chain on the side of the front stile (D). stays square during glue-up.

2 Stand a side assembly (D-H) next to

the dado blade and reset the blade
height to the lowest side of the groove
adhere the Door Pull Side Pattern from
the WOOD Patterns® insert to the side
and cut the profile on a scrollsaw or
the magnetic catches, but don't install
them yet [Drawing 1]. Using a Yz" brad-
point or Forstner bit, drill a %6/1-deep
you just cut. Attach an auxiliary face to bandsaw. Then apply the Door Pull Top hole in each door stile (1) for the strikes
the rip fence and adjust the fence to cut Pattern and cut that profile. Sand the and screw them in place.
a J.4/1-wide rabbet. Cut a piece of scrap to
fill the space below the toplbottom
panel (C) [Photo E]; then cut a rabbet
pull to round the edges and smooth out
the profile; then cut the pull to length.
Drill a hole for the pull, and screw it in
3 Edge-glue stock for the case top (N)
and cut the panel to size [Drawing 1].
Tilt your tablesaw blade to 34° and bevel
across each end of the top and bottom place [Drawing 1]. the underside [Drawing 1c]. (Watch a free
assemblies (AlBIC) [Drawing 1]. video of using a saddle jig for this job at
It starts to come together
3 Dry-fit the top and bottom assemblies
(AlBIC) with the two side assemblies
(D-H). Measure between the grooves in 1 Assemble the case by gluing the top
and bottom assemblies (AlBIC) to a
woodmagazine.com/saddlejig.) Sand the
case top to 220 grit; then screw the top
to the carcase with a 1Yz/l overhang on
the top and bottom assemblies and the side assembly (D-H) [Photo F]. Then slide the back and sides.
side assemblies, and cut the case back (M) in the back panel (M) before gluing and
to these dimensions. Cut 1,4/1 rabbets on clamping the remaining side assembly. Bear down on the cubbies
the back face of the back to create tongues
that fit in the grooves [Drawing 1]. 2 After the glue dries, set the case and
door on your bench, aligning the 1 To get a grain wrap around the two
cubby compartments, cut all the

4 With the case still dry-fit, measure

for the final door dimensions. Take
the distance from the top of the bottom
hinge mortises. Drill pilot holes; then
cut the hinge screws down before screw-
ing the hinges in place [Shop Tip, page
pieces for each cubby from a longer
blank. Prepare two %x9x36/1 blanks for
the cubby sides (0) and side shelves (P)
panel to the top of the case and subtract 36]. Attach the chain supports [PhotoG], and one %x9x24/1 blank for the center
%6/1 to find the door height. The width of and drill holes in the front stiles (D) for shelves (Q). Sand the blanks to 180 grit,
the door equals the
width of the case.
Quick Tip! A little -'@)-
off the top and V ElCUBBYHOlE ASSEMBLY
sides. Prevent the
door from looking
lopsided by trim-
ming each door stile
(1) and rail G)
equally.

5 Rout the hinge

mortises [Draw-
ing 1a, Shop Tip,
opposite]. Then, drill
and file the slots in
the top-panel back
(B) for fastening the
case top (N) later Overall width of assembled cubby is Yo" narrower than
[Drawing 1b]. the inside width of the case to allow for clearance.

6 Cut a %xlx6/1
blank for the
door pull (L). Spray-

woodmagazlne.com 35
 SHOP TIP
Clip the tip
The screws that came with our
hinges were long enough to poke
through the front of the door or at
least raise a dimple [right in photo].
To head off any potential damage,
we snipped the screws with bullnose
pliers before driving them [left in
photo]. We did the same with the
screws for the chain supports.

After gluing and clamping the center shelves Align the mark for the end of the mortise
(Q) between the cubbies (DIP), clamp the with the mark for the edge of the bit, then
cubbies to the bench to' keep things square. lower the leg (R) and push it to the stopblock.

then set the center-shelf blank aside. Cut Your case is baseless
the sides and side shelves to finished
length from the other two blanks. 1 From 8/4 stock (or laminated %"
stock), cut the legs (R) to size. To keep

2 DSing a dado blade that matches the

thickness 6f the shelves (P, Q), cut
VJ.6'I-deep dadoes and rabbets on the
the legs properly oriented, mark each
with its location (right rear, left front,
etc.); then layout the three mortise loca-
cubby sides (0) [Drawing 3]. Finish-sand
the cubby sides and side shelves to 220
grit; then assemble the cubby boxes
tions [Drawings 4, 4a]. To help locate the
mortises when routing, transfer the
marks for the top end of each top mor-
4 Cut the front and back rails (5), upper
side rails (T), and lower side rails (D)
to size, along with a test piece of the
[Photo H]. tise and the bottom end of each bottom same 'width and thickness as the upper

3 5lide the cubbies (O/P) into the car-

case snug to the sides. Determine the
center-shelf (Q) length by measuring
mortise to the opposite faces of the legs.

2 DSing a 14" straight bit in your router

table, make test cuts in 1Yz" -wide
rails. Cut on the scrap a test tenon 'to fit
in a mortise [Photo N], Then cut a tenon
on each end of each rail [Drawing 4b].
between the bottoms of the dadoes, and
subtracting YB" for clearance. Cut the
shelves to this length; then layout and
scrap to center the cut on the stock's
width. Clamp a stopblock to the fence,
3" from the bit [Photo J]. Rout the upper
5 DSing a fairing stick (see More
Resources, page 38), layout the arcs
on the upper rails (5, T) [Drawing 4]. Cut
cut the arcs [Drawing 3]. After sanding mortises in the legs (R) in three passes, them on the bandsaw, and sand them
the shelves to 220 grit, glue the shelves raising the bit WI between passes. Then smooth.
between the cubbies [Photo I].

4 Drill and countersink two 0/16" holes

reset the stopblock 7" from the bit, lower
the bit, and rout the lower mortises. 6 For the stretcher (V), cut an overlong
blank to width. Dry-fit the legs (R)
in the top side shelves (P) [Drawing
3]. Remove the screws f-rom the top of
the chain supports, fit the cubby assem-
3 5cribe a line around each leg (R) S"
from the bottom. Make a copy of the'
Leg Bottom Pattern from the WOOD Pat-
and rails (5, T, D), and square up the
assembly. Mark the stretcher length
[Photo 0], and cut it to length, then lay
bly (O/P/Q) into the carcase tight against terns® insert, and glue it onto a piece of out and cut the arc to shape [Drawing 4].
the back (M), and screw the cubbies to
the top panel (C).
light cardboard. Create the tapers fol-
lowing the steps in Photos K, L, and M. 7 Rout VB" round-overs on the arc and
outside top edge of the rails (5, T)

Trace the tapers on to one face of each leg (R) (left), then cut them on the bandsaw staying just outside the lines. Sand these faces smooth on a
drum sander (middle). Then trace the' remaining tapers on to a freshly sanded face (right), and repeat the process.

36 WOOD magazine October 2009

and stretcher (V), the long edges of the
lower side rails (D), and the long edges
arid the top outside edges of the legs (R)
[Drawing 4].
Note: The TOuter bit won't reach the
comers of the leg tapers. Use sandpaper to
create these round-overs.
g cut a groove in the front/back rails
(S) to accept the tabletop fasteners
[Drawing 4]. Sand all the base parts to
220 grit; then glue up the base.
Note: Do not glue the stretcher (V) in
place. Clamp it in position only as a spacer
while the glue dries on the rails and legs.
Cut rabbets on all four edges of a test piece
•
9 DSing double-faced tape, fasten scrap
spacers to the lower side rails (D) to
to create a tenon that fits the mortise; then
cut tenons on the rails (5, T, U).
Place one end of the stretcher (V) blank
against the inside face of an upper side rail
(T) and mark the length of the stretcher.

No round-overs

II BASE Ys" groove W' deep

%" from top edge
Left rear/right front
#8 x Sfa" leg shown
panhead screw
14" mortises
',4" deep

.\ ®
%" hole W' deep
with a ¥..2" shank
hole centered inside
%"plug
%"Iong,
trimmed flush
after assembly

\~ Ys" pilot hole

114" deep !lmTENON DETAILS
#8 x 2" F.H.
wood screw
Sanded
round-overs

woodmagazlne.com
37
 Materials List
FINISHED SIZE
position the stretcher (V) %" above the Part T W L MatI. Qty.
bottom of the rails [Drawing 4, Photo P]' Top/bottom panels
Clamp across the rails (D) and drill A fronts %" 1y.," 20W' C 2
counterbores with shank and pilot holes
B backs %" 2" 20h" C 2
[Drawing 4]. Screw the stretcher in place
and glue plugs into the counterbores. C panels Y2" 9" 20W' VM 2

Trim and sand the plugs flush after the Side panels
glue dries. 0* front stiles %" 1y.," 15" C 2
E* back stiles %" 2" 15" C 2
Finish and assemble F top rails %" 2" 9h" C 2

1 Remove the hardware, pull (L), case

top (N), and cubbies (O/P/Oj. Apply
a finish to all pieces. (We wiped on
G bottom rails
H 'panels
%"
h"
2%"
9W'
9W'
10%"
C
VM
2
2

boiled linseed oil and allowed it to dry Door

Temporary spacers hold the stretcher (V)
72 hours before applying two coats of a while drilling counterbores and screw holes. 1* stiles %" 2" 14Y16'. C 2

satin-finish wipe-on polyurethane, buff- Plug the counterbores after driving screws. J* rails %" 2" 18" C ?
ing lightly between coats with 320-grit K panel Y2" 18" 10'Yi6' VM
sandpaper.) After the finish cures, rein- Written by Craig Ruegsegger with Jeff Mertz
L* door pull o/a" 1" 1y.," W
stall the cubbies, top, pull, and hardware, Project design: Kevin Boyle
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson Case
and press the magnetic catches in place
M back panel W' 20Y2" 14" VM
[Drawing 1].
N top %" 16" 24Y2" EC

2 Center the case on the base. Slide

four tabletop fasteners into the kerfs
in the base front/back rails (S) and screw
Cubbyhole
0* sides %" 9" 9" EC 4
through them into the bottom-panel P* side shelves W' 9" 4h" EC 6
front (A) and back (B) [Drawing 4]. Take a Q* center shelves %" 9" 1OW' EC 2
photo of your handiwork, then sit down
Base
at your new desk and draft a letter or
R legs 1W' 1W' 34Y2" C 4
e-mail to show it off. •
5 front/back rails %" 3W' 21y.," C 2
T upper side rails %" 3h" 12y.," C 2
U lower side rails %" 2" 12y.," C 2
Cutting Diagram V* stretcher %" 5" 20%" C 1
'Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
A A Materials key: C-cherry, VM-veneered MDF:
% X 5V2 x 96" Cherry (4 bd. ft.) EC-edge-glued cherry, W-walnut.
Supplies: Double-faced tape, spray adhesive, #8x2" flat-
J N N N head wood screws (4), #8x1 Y4" flathead wood screws (4),
% X 5V2 x 96" Cherry (4 bd. ft.) #8x1" flathead wood screws (4), #8x%" panhead screws
(4), #8x1 Y4" brass flathead wood screw (1).
_.__.-------- * P
Blade and bits: Dado blade, Ya" round-over, Y4"
o 0 straight, dado-cleaning router bits, Yz" brad-point or
% X 5V2 x 96" Cherry (4 bd. ft.) (2 needed) Forstner bit.
*Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List.
Sources
Hinge, chain, catches, tabletop fasteners:
2x2" brass hinges (2) item 57116, $17.99 [pair]; 0/16'
% x 7v.. x 60" Cherry (3.3 bd. ft.) % x 1% x 12" Walnut (.17 bd. ft.) magnetic catches with strikes (2) item 29272, $6.29; chain
supports (2) item 30663, $12.99; tabletop fasteners (4)
~am~R~tB~'"~4~f$~~!1~FiiifE~;.il@~R]!;~,~lm®;W;~!1!!~", ~e~;l~j item 34215, $3.99 [pack of 8], Rockier, 800-279-4441,
1% x 3% x 72" Cherry (4 bd. ft.) rockler.com.
Veneer: B&B Rare Woods, 303-986-2585,
wood-veneers.com.

MORE RESOURCES
FREE PLAN FREE VIDEOS
• Making a fairing stick at ."Using a Fairing Stick" at • "Using a Saddle Jig" at ."C1amp and Sand Panels Flat" at
woodmagazine.com/fairing woodmagazine.com/fairingvideo woodmagazine.com/saddlejig woodmagazine.com/panels

38 WOOD magazine October 2009

Build N-lnstaU Beautiful
Door and Window 11

Your shop tells the world

you're a woodworker. Use
it to make the rest of your
home say the same thing.

'ke the beige walls of an

l1 office cubicle, basic builder

oldings in most houses do
their job-hiding raw drywall
edges-but they're not anything
you pause to admire. By design-
ing and milling your own door
and window trim, you make a
style statement by controlling the
size, width, wood species, and
profile beyond the limited selec-
tion in home centers. And you'll
save money versus buying the
premade stuff. With your custom
trim in hand, we'll guide you·
step-by-step through the process
of installing it.
But let's not stop there. In the
next issue, your molding make-
over continues with detailed tips
on how to make and install base-
boards and chair rails. You can
make all these moldings using a
tablesaw and a table-mounted
router. Though not mandatory, 51
mitersaw, a 15- or 16-gauge pneu-
matic nailer, and an 18-gauge
brad nailer make installation go
faster and easier.
When replacing the molding in
your home, start with door and
window trim-they determine
the lengths of baseboards and
chair rails you'll install later.

40
BLOCK OUT MITER CUTS COMBINE CORNER OINTS
r--1 ''----1

l
1J, Mitered
molding

j ;r~·"1
: Butted
: frame

i '"

II) SECTION VIEW

[i \~~---~
Corner blocks hide end grain on the molding By encasing a butt-joined molding in narrow, Routing molding blanks wider than the bit
and eliminate miter cuts and-the need to mitered moldings, you conceal end grain length produces a bolder profile appropriate
make stopped cuts to form flutes or beads. without cutting wide, obvious miters. for rooms with ceilings over 8' high.

Select profiles that suit your taste. Your

choice of materials depends on whether
you'll stain or paint the molding. For
stained molding, use clear stock. If you'll
paint the molding, substitute inexpen-
sive poplar or MDF.
Next, decide between butted corners
or miter joints. Casings butted against
corner blocks [Photo A] mean every cut
is 90°, but miters [Photo B] don't add that
much'more complexity. The technique
we'll show doesn't use corner blocks, but
still requires no mitering.
Now choose a symmetrical profile
(with no left or right side) [PhotoA] or an
asymmetrical profile [Photo C]. Most
new homes use asymmetrical mitered
trim only 2YJ" wide-about Yz" thick at
the outside edge and tapered toward the
inside. For a bolder asymmetrical profile,
rout only a portion of the molding's
width [Photo C].

Mill miles of molding

Plan your work around lumber up to 8'
long to eliminate joints. Plane molding
blanks to uniform thickness, including
two extras in case you lose a few to warp-
ing or router tear-out.
Spinning a large-profile router bit
through long hardwood strips requires a
table-mounted router with a variable- m .'
speed 3-hp motor. You'll also need Precautions that help you safely and effectively rout
long molding include (1) hold-downs clamped to the
infeed and outfeed supports. For consis- fence, (2) featherboards, (3) infeed support, (4) clearance __
tent profiles, mount featherboards and on both sides of the router table, (5) a helper on the
hold-downs to keep workpieces from outfeed side, and (6) efficient dust collection.
being levered away from the bit by their
lengths and weights [Photo 0]. for wood movement. Discard twisted or ferent areas of the profile. Start with the
Having a helper pull the molding on warped pieces. highest grit that eliminates the router
the outfeed side speeds up production, Asharp bit reduces but doesn't elimi- marks-typically 100 grit or 120 grit-
but the featherboards and hold-downs nate tool marks that st!iins reveal [Photo and sand up through 180 grit. To avoid
let you work alone as long as you keep E]. (The same applies to store-bought touching up the finish on splices, joints,
up a consistent feed rate. After routing, moldings.) Use a sanding sponge or pro- and nail holes after installation, stain
set the pieces aside for a day and check file blocks (see Sources) to sand the dif- but don't topcoat your moldings.

woodmagazine.com 41
 PATIENT SANDING PAYS OFF
Check jamb
alignment
with the
wall.~

Mark
Both store-bought trim and one-pass routed moldings have tool reveals
marks (top) that must be sanded down prior to staining (bottom). on all

After checking
that a window is
mounted square
and flush with
the wall, mark
the top and
bottom centers
of the head jamb
andsDl.
B
Multiple passes over a %" dado blade create a recess to let this door
molding compensate for wall imperfections.

Asliding square with a 3"-wide blade (see Sources) helps mark reveal
lines where you'll attach molding to the window jambs and sill.

Make, install window trim

When building furniture in your shop,
you're in control. But in the rest of the
house, you face odd corner angles, wavy
drywall, and window or door installa-
tion errors that will throw off careful
measurements and equipment settings.
Evaluate each window and door before
cutting and attaching trim [Photo F]. If a
jamb stands proud of the drywall, sand
or plane it flush with the wall. If the
drywall stands proud of the jambs, cut
and attach filler strips where the gap
exceeds Ys". You also can help moldings

42
lie flat against a wall and jamb by reliev- HEADER ASSEMBLY
ing the molding back Va-V16" using a (END VIEW)
dado blade [Photo G].
Now determine how much of the door
and window jambs to reveal. We marked
ours at VB" [Photo H], but you may want
to make the reveal as small as Va" to pro- %"
vide more backing for driving nails into
the jambs.
For the room shown on page 44, we'll
build similar header assemblies over the
window and door. Make the stool/apron
I
3Vi'
Vi' cove

assembly on the bottom of the window

the same as a header assembly minus
the beaded molding on the bottom
[Photo I]. Here's how to determine the
header and stool/apron assembly part Assemble this window header by aligning the
lengths for windows and doors: center marks and nailing the cap pieces and
t 1Va"
0'14" round-overs
C
• To find the head casing and window beaded molding to the head casing.
apron length, measure between the side
jambs of the door or window, then add NAIL THE SIDE CASINGS IN PLACE
two times the side-casing width (3Yz" in
this case) plus two times the reveal (VB").
Cut the head-casing length the total of
those measurements.
• Add 2%" to the head-casing length,
and cut the round-over cap that length.
• Add 1Yz" to the head-casing length
and cut the coved cap that length.
• Add %" to the head-casing length
and cut the beaded molding that size.
For a 36"-wide door or window, for
example, cut the head casing/apron
43%" long, the round-over cap 46Yz"
long, the coved cap 4S~" long, and the
beaded molding 44Yz" long. Then rout
profiles on the cap parts and beaded
molding [Header Assembly drawing].
Back in the shop, assemble the two
caps, head casing, and beaded molding Align the stool/apron assembly with the sill A15- or 16-gauge nail at least 2%" long has
to make the door and window headers. edge reveal marks, and attach the assembly what it takes to penetrate %" hardwood, W'
Do the same, minus a beaded molding, to the wall with 15- or 16-gauge nails. drywall, and the stud underneath.
for the stool/apron assembly. Center a
mark on the back of each part, align the
marks and nail the parts together [Photo
J]. Then mark the centers of the window
Install Molding Like a Pro
head jambs and sills, and the head jambs David Fish has learned a thing or two stool so your eyes are even with the
of the doors. about installing molding during his reveal mark before marking your
30+ years working as a builder and cutline on the casing edge.
To mount the stool and apron assem-
trim carpenter. For example: • Fasten moldings to door and
bly, align the center marks on the stool
• For an improperly installed window window jambs with 18-gauge brads
with the center mark on the windowsill where the drywall stands more than Va" spaced about 12" apart. Space 15- or
edge. Then use a 16-gauge (or IS-gauge) proud of the jamb, you may be able to 16-gauge nails about 24" apart when
nailer to attach the assembly to the wall pull the jambs flush using a bar clamp. fastening trim to a wall. .
[Photo K] along the reveal line. With the window open, place the fixed • Use 2~" or 2Y2" 15- or 16-gauge
Butt' one side-casing end on the stool clamp jaw on the outdoor edge of the nails to fasten molding to a wall but
and mark the other end where it meets window jamb and the movable jaw never to a door or window. The added
the window head-jamb reveal mark. Cut against the drywall inside next to the thickness could split the jambs.
it to that length. Then attach it to the window. Slowly tighten the clamp until • Don't try to save time by sawing
wall with IS- or 16-gauge nails and to the window slips into position. side casings to equal length at the
• When cutting side casings to length same time. Plinth blocks on an uneven
the window-jamb edges with IS-gauge
using a reveal mark on the door or floor could be an unequal distance
brads [Photo L]. Now install the header window jambs, stand on a ladder or from the head-jamb reveal marks.
assembly, also centered on the window
head-jamb edge.

woodmagazine.com 43
 •
Move on to the doors
Cutting and attaching door trim works
much like the window trim, minus the
stool/apron assembly. As a transition for
the baseboard we'll add later, side cas-
ings rest instead on plinth blocks.
First cut plinth blocks 1;4" wider than
the side casings and nail them at the
base of the door side jambs [Photo M],
overlapping the reveal marks by Va".
Center one side casing on a block and
mark it where the edge meets the reveal
mark on the head jamb [Photo N]. Cut
the casing to length at that mark. Repeat
for the other side casing-don't cut both
the same length at the same time. A plinth block at the base of the door jamb Transfer the reveal mark on the door head
. Position a side casing at the reveal provides a transition between the side casing jamb edge to the edge of a door casing. Then
marks on the door side jamb and mount and baseboards. trim the casing to that mark.
it using 18-gauge brads driven into the
door jambs. Then use a IS-gauge or and nail it to wall studs using 15- or the nail holes .[Photo P] and wipe smooth.
16-gauge nailer with 21;4"- or 2Yz"-10ng 16-gauge nails. Allow the putty to dry and brush on at
nails to fasten the other edge of the cas- With all door and window trim least two coats of clear finish. • .
ing to a wall stud. Repeat for the other installed, touch up any missing stain. Written by Bob Wilson with David Fish
side casing. Now center the header trim Then dab oil-based wood putty that Molding design: Kevin Boyle
assembly on the head jamb [Photo 0] matches your wood (see Sources) into Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

m
The ends of the door head casing should align with the outer edges Adab of colored wood putty on your fingertip can fill nail holes in
of the side casings. stained trim. Aclear finish helps patches blend in.

COMING NEXT ISSUE: HOW TO ADD BASEBOARDS AND CHAIR RAILS Sources
Router bits: Window casing bit no. 175-4805, $79.95,
Eagle America, 800-872-2511 or eagleamerica.com. Base-
cap bit no. 99-480, $59 (Amazon.com), Freud America,
Now that you've framed your 800-334-4107orfreudtools.com.
Profile sanding blocks: Set of 15, no. 68Z82.10,
doors and windows, add a $13.95, Lee Valley Tools, 800-871-8158 or leevalley.com.
two-piece chair rail and a Sliding square: No. 05N32.01, $36.50, Lee Valley Tools.
nnted putty: Color Putty no. 116 Butternut, $2.67 for
baseboard. We'll show you 3.68 oz, Color Putty Co., 608-325-6033 or colorputty.com.
how in the November issue.
MORE RESOURCES
• For a free video on cutting and'
installing crown molding, go to
woodmagazine.com/moldingvideo.
• To buy an article on choosing a
mitersaw, go to
woodmagazine.com/12mitersaw.
• For nailer and compressor combo
kit information and reviews, see .
woodmagazine.com/nailercombo.

44 WOOD magazine October 2009

 \
, Better Homes and Gardens~

® I
LEG BOTTOM
FULL-SIZE
PATTERN

PATTERNS.
October 2009 Issue 793
Dear Reader: As a service to you, we've included full-size
patterns on this insert for irregular-shaped and intricate
project parts. You can machine all other project parts using
the Materials List and the drawings accompanying the proj-
ect you're building.

©Copyright Meredith Corporation, 2009. All rights reserved. Printed in

the U.S.A. Meredith Corp., the publisher of WOOD Patterns®, allows
the purchaser of this pattern insert to photocopy these patterns solely for
personal use. Any other reproduction of these patterns is strictly prohibited.

Collector's
Magazine File
[ Page 66

Drop-Front
Computer Desk ®
Page 32 SIDE
FULL-SIZE
DOOR-PULL TOP TOP PATTERN
FULL-SIZE PATTERN
(top view)

-----------------"'\
. ..... .~l

L.- l...- ~ _=-_ ___ _ @,©

W' dado W' deep FRONT/BACK
on inside face FULL-SIZE
-I BOTTOM PATTERN
____________~_ =- - - - - - ~ T
----------------j S/s"

1 ----- 14" rabbets 14" deep

DOOR-PULL SIDE on inside face
FULL-SIZE PATTERN
(left view)

45
 I+-
46
 +------ -+-1- -+----+-- --+-- ---i-----+------I~ ---I

Rocking Horse I Download a full-size pattern at

I
7 ----t- Page 50 --+----+ -------1---+ woodmagazine.com/rockinghorse
1
I

~'
- - - + - - 1- -+I-----+- I

-+ I

I l IRed :1 .
-- i-----+-- -~-----i----+----+-I~ - --;- --+-1- -
I
- - i - - +-----t------------I
t--I

Saddle_____ i
back ----
I I
I " I
Saddle
I I
Red I
: I

--1----+--+-

47
 I
I
I
I
I-----------~.____--------- 7"---------t-----<-;:
I
I
I
I
I
I
TAIL I
FULL-SIZE 5" I
PATTERN I
VB" round-over I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
_J

Rocking Horse
Page 50

I r------------------......- --
I
VB" round-over
I
I
I 4" 1------4"--------+-f------t---
EAR
I
FULL-SIZE
I
PATTERN
I (2 needed)
I FOOTREST
I FULL-SIZE PATTERN
I (2 needed)
I
3"
I
I
I I
I I
I I
I
I -----------------~

48
You won't have to pony up for a lot
of tools or materials to put a smile
on a child's face with this classic toy.

WHAT YOU'll NEED

• Materials: A %x20x72" edge-glued

pine panel and one %x8" dowel.
• Blades and bits: 20-tpi jigsaw
blade, W' round-over bit,
W' pattern bit, %" Forstner bit,
Y32" and Ya" drill bits or Ya"
countersink/counterbore drill bit.

o cartoon DVD can take a child size patterns from the WOOD Patterns®

N to places in his imagination with

the speed of this rocking horse.
You'll be sitting tall in the saddle, too,
insert. Enlarge the body half-size pattern
by 200 percent, and make two copies.
(Or download free full-size patterns at PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS
knowing you built this pine pony using woodmagazine.com/rockinghorse and
simple, handheld power tools. So gallop print them at your local copy shop. You • The rocking horse seat rests 12" above
the floor-ideal for children 12 months
on into your shop and let's get started. can also draw the pattern on a 1" grid to
to 3 years old.
enlarge it.) Use spray adhesive to mount • Apply a clear finish for simplicity,
Jockey that jigsaw the patterns on a %x20x72" edge-glued or paint using the easy-to-follow
1 Make two copies each of the ear and
footrest and one copy of the tail full-
pine panel, as shown in the Cutting Dia-
gram. (We purchased an edge-glued
patterns.

50 WOOD magazine October 2009

 Fine teeth cut cleanly
A jigsaw may not leave the clean,
square edges of a bandsaw, but the
right blade can bring it pretty close.
Instead of 5- or even 10-teeth-per-
inch (tpi) blades, use a 20-tpi blade
with a narrow body. You'll get less
tear-out, and the narrow body does
a better job in tight curves.

20-tpl Orient patterns on the panel as shown in the An upper-body shank hole becomes a starter
blade Cutting Diagram to ensure the grain on all hole for drilling shanks=--some of them with
parts runs in the directions shown. counterbores-in the lower body.

3 Using double-faced tape, adhere one

body pattern-side up on the other
the bit can't reach (in case someone does
look a gift horse in the mouth).

panel at a local home center.) Then lay

out the locations of the saddle, front
body. (Note that there's a left and right
body.) Drill shank holes, some with
countersink/counterbores, where shown
5 use the body pattern to transfer
shank-hole locations to the footrests,
ears, front support, center support, and
support, center support, saddle back, on the pattern [Photo B]. The bit should saddle back [PhotoC]. Then drill centered
and two saddle sides, as shown. penetrate the lower body. Separate the pilot holes at each mark [Photo 0].

2 USing a jigsaw with a 20-tpi blade

[Shop Tip above], cut all the parts just
outside the pattern lines [Photo A]. Sand
bodies and finish drilling shank holes
through the other body. Turn that body
over and drill countersink/counterbores
6 Cut two 3¥S"-long ¥-t" dowels for the
handles. Sand a chamfer on one end
of each, then drill a centered pilot hole ,
the part edges to the pattern lines. (To where noted on the pattern. into the other end. Quick tip! Center-(@)-
with certainty. To center a hole in a ij'
qUickly duplicate identical parts, see the
SI<i11 Builder on page 52.) 4 Rout Va" round-overs where shown
[Drawing 1]. Hand-sand this profile
around the mouth on the bodies where
handle end, first insert the dowel into its
counterbore in the body with the cham-
fered end out. Guided by the body shank
hole, drill a pilot hole into the dowel.

D EXPLODED VIEW
3f,," hole 3/8 " deep
FRONT with a shank hole
centered inside Yilt

~
SUPPORT 8 ¥a" holes v.." deep
) with shank holes
centered inside

-------------...1lJ

-... IlJ HANDLE

--- • r 3f,," dowel
~ __ • 1Ii\

"'. ",'r)
3%' 100'

wood PI::oh,mre,
#8 x 1'!i" F.H.
wood screw
Note: All stock 3f,,"

woodmagazine.com 51
 Place footrests and ears next to their outlines
•
Draw a centerline on the pilot-hole location Arocking horse may need a trip to the vet
on the body pattern to transfer pilot hole marks; then drill3f32" pilot holes in the (meaning you). So attach footrests, ears, and
locations to the parts. footrests and ears. handles without glue for easy repairs.

7 Remove the paper patterns from all

parts and sand each to 220 grit.
-'@J5-Quick tip! Avoid a sticky situation.
screw the second body to the supports
[Photo G], making sure the flat areas that
will support the saddle are parallel.
¥ Spray-adhesive residue gums up sandpa-
per. Wipe away residue with a soft cloth
soaked in mineral spirits; then allow the
3 Glue and clamp the saddle sides to
the body as shown [Photo H].
A Apply construction adhesive to the
wood to dry before sanding. ""'toody where shown [Photo I] and
insert the saddle. Weight the saddle
Entering the home stretch until the adhesive cures.

1 Screw (don't glue) one ear to each

body [Drawing 1]. Then attach the
footrests [Photo E] and handles to the
5 cut 12 plugs in ¥16"-thick pine scrap
using a plug cutter (Sources). Glue
and sink them into counterbores in both
-'@J5-bodies. Quick tip! Position parts pre- bodies. Saw or chisel the plugs flush,
¥ dsely. Drive screws through the body and sand them smooth to 220 grit.
until the tips just protrude. Then posi-
tion the pilot holes in an ear or footrest
over the screw tips and drive the screws
6 For the look of the rocking horse
shown, first brush or wipe Fruitwood
stain (Finishing Supplies) on the body.
into the pilot holes. Transfer the mane outline from the body

2 screw the tail to the center of the

saddle back. Attach the front sup-
port, saddle back, and center support to
pattern to the bodies and stain the mane,
tail, and ears with Early American. Apply
two coats of Tomato Spice acrylic paint
Clamping a body between braces makes it
easier to attach the front and center supports
the inside face of a body [Photo F]. Then to the handles, saddle, and footrests. and the saddle back.

SKILL BUILDER
Save time by pattern-routing duplicate parts
Jigsawing and sanding duplicate parts rides against the sanded part
to size gets the job done-eventually. and the cutter extends just
Using a pattern bit in a handheld beyond the full thickness of
router, however, you'll get perfectly the rough-cut part below.
matched parts in less time. Now rout in a clockwise
First cut and sand one part to shape motion around the pattern.
to serve as your template. Rough-cut To keep the bit from tearing
duplicate parts within Y16" of the out the wood on end grain,
pattern lines. Center the sanded part "climb-cut" by moving the
on a rough-cut part, and clamp or router the opposite
double-face tape the two together on direction. Climb-cut with a
pieces of scrap that lift both above firm grip on the router.
your workbench. To get a feel for where to
Install a Yz" pattern bit in your router climb-cut, practice routing . one, a table-mounted router provides
and adjust its depth so the bearing curves cut from scraps. If you have greater control.

52 WOOD magazine October 2009

Attach the body to the front support and Laya straightedge across the tops of the A bead of construction adhesive fills the gap
saddle back with one screw each. Align the bodies, and mount the saddle sides so they between the saddle and the angled edges of
parts before driving the remaining screws. just touch the straightedge. the bodies.

BPARTSVIEW Transfer the star pattern to the saddle,

and the nostril shape to the body. Out-
line the stars and make flowing lines on
the mane and tail in brown using a paint
pen. Fill in the nostril with the brown
Va" round- paint and let dry. Then apply three coats
overs of clear' finish to the entire horse, and
glue the 28mm wiggle eyes where shown
on the pattern. •
CENTER SUPPORT
Written by Bob Wilson with Kevin Boyle
Project design: Kevin Boyle
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMolnes, Lorna Johnson

~
~" 7"
. r-- Painted by Pat McClure
FRONT SUPPORT r=;===t==r=F~ -t-.
I : Supplies: Spray adhesive, construction adhesive,
2" ,
#8x1 Vi' flathead wood screws (24).
L Finishing supplies: Minwax Fruitwood and Early
R=1Vi' American stains, Delta Ceramcoat acrylic crafts paint in
Tomato Spice, a brown paint pen, and clear satin topcoat.
\I Eyes: 28mm wiggle eyes, available at crafts supply stores.
,; I I L

llV4' Sources
Counterslnk/counterbore: JA," counterbore/
countersink with 5132" pilot no. CS03-0156, $7, McFeely's,
800-443-7937 or mcfeelys.com
3fa" hole '4" deep Plug cutter: Self-centering JA," plug cutter no. MBT-
with a shank hole 0375, $16.05, McFeely's.
-'---.L"---="--'i'--~ centered inside

SADDLE BACK
J,.. . SADDLE

Cutting Diagra~

SADDLE SIDE
(2 needed)
Saddle'
---~-;-
----
. __ Body - - - - - -
..-., .. --~---~-
--------"-----
"'-='-F"'-r'---------- .or Body
----------:::=::;:::=::=:j

% x 20 x 72" Edge-glued pine panel

woodmagazlne.com 53
 ome projects, like the drop-front desk on page 32, beg for largest panel to be veneered. Also prepare cauls of %" hard-

S the eye-catching grain pattern of a highly figured, book-

matched panel. But it can be tough opening your wallet
to pay for an exotic piece of lumber, and then gathering the
wood 2" wide [Photo 6, page 56] by bandsawing or sanding one
edge of each caul to create a smoothly-arced crown Yl6" wider
than the ends. Draw an arrow pointing to the high spot so it's
courage to resaw and plane it. Veneer gives you that breathtak- easy to position the cauls during glue-up. When clamped, the
ing look without breaking the bank-and applying it is easier arched cauls flatten to apply even pressure across the full
than you might think. width of the platens. Make enough cauls to clamp one every 4"
on both faces of the panel.
Deal with pressing matters
Start by gathering waxed paper and making platens (stiff, flat
¥I"-or-thicker MDF, particleboard, or plywood) for a veneer
press, as shown below. Cut the platens slightly larger than the

LOW-TECH VENEER PRESS

Top Waxed
platen paper
(%"MDF)

Waxed
paper

Bottom platen
(%"MDF)

54 WOOD magazine October 2009

 SKILL BUILDER
Book-matching gives panels character
Now cut a panel, called a substrate, to Using a single piece of plain-sawn veneer on a panel (left photo) looks nice
which the veneer will be glued. We like enough, but book-matching two pieces of veneer makes a panel really "pop"
(r(ght photo). It's called a book-match because you take two sheets of veneer,
MDF because of its stability and flatness. sliced one after the other from the same log, and separate them as if you
For Ys"- or lA"-thick panels, tempered were opening the pages of a book. Wilder grain patterns, such as cathedral
hardboard works well. Because veneer grain or burls, produce highly interesting panels.
tends to slip on wet glue, cut each sub-
strate about Yz" wider and longer than
finished dimensions, and trim the panel
to final size after veneering.
Next, decide if you want a book-match
on the panel [Skill Builder, right]. For pan-
els covered by a single sheet of veneer
without a book-match, skip down to
trimming the veneer in Step S.

Step 1 Choose two consecutively-sliced

pieces of veneer and stack them so the
grain patterns align as closely as possible.
Apply painter's tape to the ends of the
mated pair to prevent the sheets from
shifting [Photo 2].

Step 2 Trim one edge of the pair by

drawing a fresh utility knife blade along
a straightedge. Trim as little as possible
from the veneer to preserve the intended
book-match pattern.

Step 3 Joint the cut edges by sticking a

piece of self-adhesive, 180-grit sandpa-
per to a block of MDF. Place the sheets of
veneer on a scrap -piece of MDF with the
cut edges overhanging about Y16". Then
gently sand the cut veneer edges straight
and square.

55
Step 4 Remove the painter's tape, and open the pieces like Spread glue onto the top face of the substrate and position the
the pages of a book. With the good side of the veneer faceup, other veneer on it, taped face up. Place the second piece of
butt the jointed edges together, and draw the joint tight with waxed paper, the top platen, and the remaining cauls, then
short lengths of painter's tape stretched across the seam. Then clamp the press firmly. Allow the glue to dry for at least four
lay another strip of tape down the full length of the joint. hours before removing the clamps.

Step 5 Draw centerlines on opposite edges of the substrate Step 7 If the veneer shifted during glue-up so the pattern is
panel, and then place the substrate on the veneer, aligning the no longer square to the edges, secure the panel to a sled using
marked centerlines with the taped joint line. Using a utility double-faced tape, and run the sled against the tablesaw rip
knife, trim around the substrate. Repeat this process to create fence to true up one edge. Use this sawn edge against the miter
a veneer sheet for the opposite face of the panel. gauge or rip fence and trim the panel to finished size. If the
veneer patterh remained square to the panel, true up one edge
Step 6 Stand half of your cauls on a pair of risers with the by sanding with 80-grit sandpaper on an MDF block to remove
crown of the cauls facing up, layer a platen and waxed paper glue squeeze-out and any overhanging veneer. Then cut the
on them, and get your clamps open and ready. Spread a thin, panel to finished size. •
even coat of yellow glue on one face of the substrate. Align the
veneer on the substrate (the taped side should face away from Written by Craig Ruegsegger with Jeff Mertz
the substrate) and press it down; then place this assembly Illustration: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
veneer-side down on the waxed paper [Drawing, page 54].

56 WOOD magazine October 2009

Products that broke new ground in woodworking
Whether invented out of necessity or simply the result of someone's search for a
better mousetrap, these tools and accessories made landmark impacts on the world
of woodworking.

Nova four-jaw lathe chuck

Square-jawed lathe chucks had been around for
decades in metalworking, but in 1988 Teknatool
introduced a self-centering four-jaw chuck with
circular jaws, and that style has since become
SawStop tablesaw HTC mobile tool bases the standard in woodturning. The Nova chuck
Doing for tablesaws what airbags did for cars, The inspiration was surpisingly simple: With the enabled turners to hold-and then shape-a
SawStop could be the single greatest safety de- ability to move machines around, woodworkers wood blank by tightening the jaws around a
vice in woodworking. Full-time patent attorney could make better use of smaller shop space and simple tenon, which they cut off after finishing
and part-time woodworker Steve Gass came dust-collection hook-ups. So Tim Hewitt welded the bowl. It also featured an innovative remov-
up with the idea of making a safer saw in 1999 together angle-iron steel frames to match the able screw in. the center of the chuck, used to
after his father caught his hand in a blade. Gass footprints of heavy machines, added casters, mount the piece initially while you turned the
invented a blade brake, activated by skin contact, and voila! Word spread quickly, and his mobile tenon-no need for a faceplate. Providing a
a
that stops a spinning blade in Y200 of second, bases proved so popular that he couldn't meet secure method to hold stock without faceplates
leaving the victim with only a scratch. There are consumer demand making each one by hand, so and invasive screws, four-jaw chucks have played
17,000 models in use today, with more than 500 in 1984 the Hewitt Tool Company (HTC) went a large role in the growth of bowl, platter, and
confirmed "finger saves," according to Gass. into mass production. hollow-vessel turning.

Titebond II & III glues

In 1991 Franklin International debuted the first
one-part, water-resistant wood glue that cleaned
up with water and
met the American
National Standards
Institute (ANSI)
requirements
for Type 2 water
resistance. Ready-
to-use Titebond II
was a huge hit with
woodworkers be-
cause it was the first JessEm router lift Leigh dovetail jig
yellow wood glue With the rise in using router tables in home shops It wasn't the first dovetail jig for routers, but the
suitable for outdoor during the 1990s, Canadian Darrin Smith longed Leigh Industries D1258, created in 1984, was the
projects. Then in for a table with the precise height adjustments of first do-it-all, adjustable jig. While previous jigs
2004, Franklin a shapero So, in 1999 he introduced the jessEm (including one from Leigh) offered the ability to
International Rout-R-Lift, the first mechanism that enabled rout either through or half-blind dovetails, the
topped itself with woodworkers to adjust bit height from above the D1258 enabled users to rout both types on the
the launch of Titebond III, the first one-part table. His invention spawned an entirely new ac- same unit. It also featured adjustable guide fin-
wood glue to achieve ANSI Type 1 water resis- cessory category-router lifts-that now boasts gers for varying the width of pins and tails. Later
tance, the highest level possible. Both formulas more than a dozen mqdels in various brands, as models added the ability to rout sliding dovetails
remain the same today. well as routers with built-in lift mechanisms. and box joints.

woodmagazlne.com 59
Hitachi sliding
compound
mitersaw
When Hitachi debuted the
first sliding mitersaw in
1988, few people realized it
also marked the unofficial
retirement of radial-arm
saws. The model C8FB
sported an 8W' blade and
a direct-drive universal
motor that slid forward and
back on rails for crosscut Kreg pocket-hole jig
capacity nearly double that While building kitchen cabinets for his Iowa
of standard compound mi- home in 1986, tool-and-die maker Craig
tersaws of the time. "Sliders" Sommerfeld fashioned a metal jig and stepped
became popular with wood- drill bit to bore angled holes into the back side of
workers who couldn't afford face frames. He then joined the frame members
a radial-arm saw, and their with pan-head screws driven into the hidden
lightweight portability made pockets. Craig's jig soon became the Kreg
them easy to transport to Jig. The easy, affordable, and effective joinery
jobsites. Later, manufacturers method enabled legions of woodworkers to
increased blade sizes to 10" build furniture, cabinets, and other projects for
and 12", all but replacing the their homes without need for more complicated
8W slider. techniques and tools.

Festool Domino Joiner SketchUp design software

Invented by a German engineer searching for a way to combine a biscuit Until about five years ago, you either drew your project plans on paper,
joiner's speed and ease of use with the strength of a mortise-and-tenon found them in magazines, or created them with expensive computer
joint, the Domino made it possible to quickly, cleanly, and accurately bore software. Then along came Google's free SketchUp software, a modeling
mortises for loose tenons. Launched in 2005 by Festool, the Domino carries program for creating three-dimensional virtual projects you can disassem-
a $775 price tag for its one-of-a-kind ingenuity. ble and view from any angle, or in a variety of wood species.

They're not tools, but they help woodworkers grow

Not all woodworking innovation has taken place in manufacturing. Growth in educational
materials and greater availability of tools and supplies has had as great an impact.

NORM!-and various
-
T he Internet
Before about 1995, woodworkers had few
resources for immediate help with their ques-
tions. Now, that aS$istance is as close as your
educational materials computer, thanks to Internet forums and Web
There's no question The New Yankee Workshop sites. You can even choose from thousands of
and its host, Norm Abram, have, for the past Home center expansion project plans online. And the growth of Web
20 years, inspired countless people to take up So-called "big box" retailers, found seemingly retailers has driven down the price of tools and
woodworking. In addition, woodworking maga- on every corner, make it possible to get nearly all products, making it easier for beginners ("new-
zines, books, and videos (WOOD's Jim Heavey, your project supplies in one place, and at prices bies" on the net) to get into woodworking, and
above) have exploded in number and availability. typically less than you'll find in specialty retailers. for veterans to expand their arsenals.

WOOD magazine October 2009

 Pro tools made affordable for the home shop
Although the following tools and machines were not the first of their kind, manu-
facturers' ability to bring them to market at significantly lower prices created
meaningful opportunities for cash-conscious woodworkers.

Delta benchtop mortiser

Powered hollow-chisel mortisers had been
around for decades, but if you wanted one you
Performax drum sander had to shell out big bucks for a floor-standing
Prior to the mid-'80s, only professional shops had wide-panel drum sanders, which typically cost a few unit. Benchtop mortisers arrived on the scene in
thousand dollars. But in 1984, Performax created an affordable drum sanding attachment for radial- the mid-'80s under the Delta name but manu-
arm saws. Then, in 1993, the fledgling company introduced its innovative 16-32 open-ended drum factured by Multico, an English company. Several
sander for about $500, giving the average woodworker the ability to sand surfaces as wide as 32". years later Delta began manufacturing its own
The brand was eventually sold to Walter Meier Holding Company, the owner of the Powermatic and model, selling for about $200-less than half the
Jet brands, among others. price of the English version.

Porter-Cable pneumatic nailers Improved Asian-made tools

Air-powered brad nailers, pinners, and narrow-crown staplers, popular- Woodworking machines have been manufac-
ized in large part by Norm Abram on The New Yankee Workshop, have tured in Taiwan for much longer than 25 years,
found a home in most but until about the mid-'90s the quality of many
workshops thanks to of these tools lagged behind those made in the
their quick convenience. United States, Canada, and Europe. As quality
Originally, pneumatics control improved, so did the tools, and more
were made for professional manufacturing shifted to Taiwan and then China.
contractors and assembly- Today, those countries dominate the making of
line manufacturers. Then, woodworking machinery.
in 1995, Porter-Cable
designed and began man-
ufacturing more affordable
nailers. Since then, nailers
and fasteners have become
even more affordable, seil-
ing in kits with compact air
compressors, typically for
about $300 or less.

Porter-Cable
biscuit joiner
Lamello introduced the portable biscuit
joiner in the late '60s, but at a price ($400
to $600) beyond the reach of most home-
shop woodworkers. Then, in
1987, Porter-Cable came out
with its model 555 biscuit
joiner that sold for less than
half the price of the Lamello,
dawning a new era in quick,
affordable joinery.

woodmagazine.com 61
 Product evolutions that changed woodworking
Although the following types of products existed prior to 1984, evolution within
each category has resulted in higher quality, accuracy, and safety for all of us.

Cordless tools
The earliest battery-powered drills in the 1970s'
were bulky and featured low-voltage batteries,
but still seemed like a godsend because they had
no power cord. Over the past 25 years manu-
facturers have boosted power significantly while
cutting charge times and weight. They've also
added keyless chucks and adjustable clutches,
ergonomic designs, and other battery-powered
tools, such as circular saws, reciprocating saws,
jigsaws, and impact drivers.

Carbide cutting edges

Although manufacturers offered carbide-tipped
saw blades and router bits beginning in the late
70s, it wasn't until the late '80s that carbide came
Improved dust collection into widespread use. With edges that stay sharp
As we became more informed of the health risks of breathing wood dust, manufacturers kept pace. about 10 times longer than steel, it's rare now to
They introduced affordable dust collectors, cyclones, and tool-triggered vacuums that not only sucked find saw blades and router bits without carbide
up the dust at the source, but also kept it contained with ultrafine filters. And tool manufacturers have tips. Today, many jointers and planers feature
placed greater emphasis on channeling dust into ports for those machines to better collect it. cutterheads with replaceable carbide inserts.

~:=:~:50--~'~
t~=­,

User-friendly finishes Hyper-accurate rip fences and miter gauges

Responding to tighter regulatory restrictions, For more than 50 years tablesaws came with ho-hum rip fences and run-of-the-mill miter gauges
finish manufacturers began making more that proved unreliable. When the Biesemeyer T-square-style rip fence was introduced in the late
environmentally friendly products, such as 70s, its accuracy, ease of use, and popularity set the standard. Since the mid-'90s, the majority of
water-based topcoats and stains, that also clean tablesaw manufacturers have incuded this type of fence as standard equipment on all but the most
up easily. They also launched products-water basic machines. As for the miter gauges, most saws come with a bare-bones model with only three
and oil-based-that made finishing projects preset stops. That's why in 1988 IDS launched its Accu-Miter gauge that boasted accuracy to V30o,
easier and more foolproof: gel stains, wipe-on and featured a telescoping fence and flip stop. You can now find more than a dozen such aftermar-
polyurethanes, and oil-and-varnish blends. ket miter gauges, ranging from about $50 to nearly $300. • Written by Bob Hunter

62 WOOD magazine October 2009

To celebrate WOOD® magazine's 25th anniversary, here's a classy project that
shows off your collection-and woodworking skills.

Dadoes and rabbets and kerfs, oh my! [Drawing 2]. Using a miter gauge, repeat the operation on both

l Edge-glue 1,4" maple to form two lOx13" blanks for the sides
(A). When dry, cut them to size [Materials List, page 68].
ends of the bottom (D) [Drawing 1]. Then cut Va" rabbets 1,4"
deep along the edges of the bottom [Drawing 1].

2 For the front (B) and back (C), cut a single Y2x4x19W ' blank.
Cut the bottom (D) to size [Materials List, Drawing 1]. 4 Remove the auxiliary rip fence. Using a miter-gauge exten-
sion, cut W' dadoes W' deep W' from both ends of the front/

3 Attach a sacrificial auxiliary fence to your tablesaw's rip

fence. Using a dado blade, cut 1,4" rabbets W' deep along
both edges of the inside face of the front/back blank (B/C)
back blank (B/C) on the inside face [Drawing 2].

S Lower the dado blade to Ys". Cut the 1,4" dado W' deep on
the inside faces of the sides (A) [Drawing 3, Photo A].

66 WOOD magazine October 2009

 DEXPLODED VIEW PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS
Yo" kerfs • Overall dimensions: 4" wide x
~6" deep 10" deep x 12¥.!" high.
• Each magazine file holds 16 issues of
~6" pilot hole WOOD® magazine. The complete
25-year set requires 12 files.
• Use your favorite wood species to

\IU,
contrast with the maple sides, or
choose a variety of species-one for
each file you build. In the set shown
on the previous page, we used, left to
12%" right, zebrawood, white oak,
mahogany, and padauk.

Va" kerf ~6" deep

B FRONT/BACK VIEW
=====11
1 - - - - - - - - - - - 19%" - - - - - - - - - 1

--i I(n=:;"
12%" Waste

11" 11%" I

® ~©

"

Full-size V4' dado

bottom pattern \4" rabbets V4' deep
V4' deep

For equal-depth dadoes, use a push pad to counteract the tendency With the ends flush, use the back (el as a guide and complete the
of the thin panel to rise as it passes over the dado blade. . curve, connecting the pattern and the back's top.

6 RePlace your dado blade with a standard blade and set it to

cut Va" kerfs YI6" deep in the outside face of the front/back
blank (B/C) [Drawing 2].
the patterns to shape and spray-adhere the Front/Back Bottom
pattern to the outside face of the front (B), taking care to align
it to the bottom corners [Drawing 2]. Set the other pattern

7 sand the inside face of the front/back blank, (B/C) as well

as both sides of the bottom (D), to 220 grit. Crosscut the
front (B) and back (C) from the blank [Drawing 2].
aside. Bandsaw the cutout and drum-sand to the line. Use the
cutout on the front as a template to trace, and then cut out
and sand the shape on the bottom of the back (C).

Add a touch of flourish 2 spray-adhere the Side Top pattern to the outside face of one
of the sides (A) and complete the cutline [Drawing 3, Photo

1 Make one copy each of the Front/Back Bottom pattern and

the Side Top pattern from the WOOD Patterns® insert. Cut
B]. Double-face-tape the two sides together, with the inside
faces touching. Bandsaw the cutout and sand to the line.

woodmagazlne.com 67
 •
Masking tape, cut to reveal the spline kerfs, protects the wood from
excess epoxy as you install the brass splines.

IJSIDEVIEW
During final assembly, glue only the center portion of the edges on
the bottom (D) to allow for cross-grain wood movement.
I
- '
9W'
Full-size top pattern
-I
----.- - -. "'---'-'--7'- - ,

Time for assembly ~

i R=S%"
1 Glue and clamp the file together, checking for square. (For
the bottom, we glued only the center of the edges and left
the ends unglued to allow for movement of the wide sides
[Photo C].) After the glue dries, ease all edges with sandpaper 12%"
and sand the remaining surfaces to 220 grit. .

2 APPlY thin strips of masking tape in the kerfs that will

contain the brass splines on the front and back. Then apply
two coats of wipe-on satin polyurethane, sanding after each
coat with a 320-grit sanding sponge. After the finish dries,
remove the masking tape, R===!=i===!Fi=it==l====iF
JJ"
7/ "

3 Cover the kerfs with strips of masking tape and carefully

trim the tape away from the kerfs [Photo 0] with a crafts
knife. Cut the brass splines to length with a hacksaw. Sand the
-I
8

splines with 320-grit sandpaper to remove any tarnish. Then Materials List
adhere them using S-minute epoxy. After the adhesive cures, FINISHED SIZE
remove the tape and apply a final coat of finish. Part T W L Mati. Qty.
A* sides Y4" 9]/,"
4 Because the #2x3Js" brass screws used to attach the card
frame are so delicate, we recommend testing their fit in a
scrap piece of hardwood. Drill a Vii' pilot hole. Drive and
B* front
C* back
]/,"

]/,"
4"
4"
12%"
12%"
6"
EM
c
C
remove a steel screw to plow a path for the brass screw. Then, D bottom ]/," 3%" 9%" M
install the. brass screw. When yo,u are satisfied with the pro- 'Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
cedure, use the same technique to attach the card frame to the
front of the magazine file. Materials key: EM-edge-joined maple, C-choice of
Finally, build a dozen more magazine files to get ready for contrasting woods, M-maple.
the next 2S years of WOOD magazine. • Supplies: Double-faced tape, spray adhesive,
5-minute epoxy, #2x%" brass wood screws.
Blade: Dado set.
Written by Lucas Peters with Jeff Mertz
Project design: Jeff Mertz Sources
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson Brass spline, card frame: 1!sXY8" ultra-machinable
brass, item 8951 K18, $3.88 for 6', McMaster-Carr,
609-259-8900 or mcmaster.com. Polished-brass card
frame, item 01A57.63, $6.80 each ($5.80 each for 10 or
more), Lee Valley, 800-871-8158 or leevalley.com.

68 WOOD magazine October 2009

 t first glance, a tablesaw tenoning
on its end to cut the cheeks with an The' simple and repetitive process

A jig looks intimidating with all

those knobs and movable parts.
Fact is, you'll use only a few of those
ordinary saw blade, as shown above,
leaving them jointer-smooth.
Looking at the Tenoning Jig Anatomy
typically requires repositioning both the
clamp and the sliding base when you
switch from cutting face cheeks to cut-
parts for 99 percent of your work, and photo on the next page, you'll see that ting edge cheeks (unless your workpiece
these simple accessories prove so easy toeach jig has two main functional areas: and tenons are square). So, let's start by
use, you'll wonder why you didn't get the work-holding area (components rating the adjustments-you'll make most
one sooner. labeled in gray), and a workpiece-posi- frequently.
Popular sentiment among woodwork- tioning area (parts marked in black) that
ers suggests that all tenoning jigs are the
controls the size of the tenon.
same, so you should just buy the least To use the jig, clamp the workpiece
expensive one you can find. We beg to with one face against the support plate
differ. Half of the jigs in our test wereand one edge against the fence. Set the
pretty much interchangeable, but one blade height to cut the length of the
stood clearly above the rest. And by the tenon. Next, loosen both the sliding-
time you reach the end of this article, base lock and the microadjust lock, and
you'll know exactly which one to buy. move the sliding base to correctly posi-
tion one face-cheek cut. Engage the
I have a dado set; why ,microadjust lock to dial in the cut pre-
do I need a tenoning jig? cisely. Now, secure the sliding-base lock
Using a dado set to cut tenons on a and make the cut by pushing the jig and
workpiece laid horizontally on the saw workpiece through the blade. Repeat the
invariably leaves ridges and shallow process for the opposite face cheek and
grooves on the tenon cheeks that weaken the two edge cheeks, as shown above.
the joint (unless you tediously sand or Make the shoulder cuts to remove the
hand-plane them smooth). But a table- waste (using a miter gauge) either before
saw tenoning jig secures the workpiece or after you cut the cheeks.

woodmagazlne.com 69
Workpiece clamping:
Make it speedy and secure
Ideally, you want to center the threaded
clamp rod-and the force-on the work-
piece, so that means adjusting the arm
fore and aft, and locking it in place. We
like Jet's long, stout arm and lever lock
best (shown below), followed by the
knurled knobs on the Delta, Laguna,
and Steel City, which require no tools to
secure. At the other extreme, the non-
sliding arm on the General International
provides only two clamp locations and
requires complete removal and
reinstallation of the clamp.
The rest of the models need
a hexhead wrench (one
more thing to keep track
of) to operate the arm lock.
As for adjusting the clamp
itself in and out to accommodate
different workpiece widths, Jet's beefy NOTE:
Acme-threaded rod with quick release WORK-HOLDING AREA (Gray)
scored well for speed of adjustment in WORKPIECE-POSITIONING AREA Baseplate
our tests. But we gave a slight edge to the (Black)
speedy steel cranks on the Delta and
General, because they turn smoothest threads into a sleeve that moves freely in lock levers (the sliding-base lock and
and keep one hand free for holding the the sliding base when the microadjust microadjust lock).
workpiece. lock is loosened. That's your coarse So we prefer the more intuitive adjust-
adjustment. Securing the lock fixes the ments on the Delta (below) and Laguna
Lateral adjustments: sleeve in the sliding base so that turning jigs. Push and hold the quick release,
Fine-tune your tenons the microadjuster moves the base in a slide the base, let go of the quick release,
All but two of the tested tenoning jigs slow but controlled fashion. and dial in the precise alignment. One
use sleeve-type microadjust systems for Overall, this style of lateral adjustment knob locks it down. Laguna's smaller
moving the sliding base left and right to works fine, but requires locking and locking knob and stiff travel knocked it
adjust the tenon size: The microadjuster unlocking two closely spaced ratcheting down a couple of points from the Delta.

Push the spring-loaded steel button on the end of Jet's clamp arm to Likewise, Delta's push-button release speeds coarse adjustments of
instantly reposition the clamp for a wider workpiece. the sliding base, then instantly reengages for fine adjustments.

70 WOOD magazine October 2009

Getting a grip: • Steel City's oversize baseplate gives it a
Handles = control broad stance for stability, but also makes The jig is up:
When pushing a workpiece through the it significantly heavi~r than most jigs-
blade, one vertical handle at both the Hz lbs heavier than the next-heaviest
Top tenoners
front and rear of the jig gave us the best Jet, and a whopping 7 lbs heavier than Delta's 34-184 stood tall above the
control, and the Delta, Jet, and Laguna the lightest-in-test Delta. rest of the jigs in this test with great
jigs have handles in that orientation. • General International's jig is the only features and precise performance,
Again, Laguna gets a slight downgrade reversible jig that works equally well in earning this $135 accessory our Top
because of its small handles. the right miter slot and the left. But if Tool award. Although Laguna's Plati-
your right miter slot measures more than num Series jig looks similar, it lacks
Other features that 4%" from the blade, the support plate the smooth operation and creature
affect performance can't get close enough to the blade to cut comforts of the Delta. Jet's JTG-lOQ
• You may only have to make the criti- 14" tenon shoulders without building out also scored well, sporting the best
cal jig-to-blade alignment when you first the support plate. You'll have to use it in of the sleeve-type microadjusters, a
set up your jig, but we gave high marks your left miter slot instead. rock-solid clamp, and a price tag the
to the General International (unfettered • The miter bars on most of the tested same as the Delta.
access to the two screws that secure the jigs have built-in adjustments to fit the In the under-$lOO price tier, the
baseplate to the miter bar), and Delta bar to your saw's miter slot. On those jigs are so similar in function and
and Steel City jigs (the sliding base must without (see chart, below), you'll need to performance that we'd go with the
be in a certain position to access both peen or file the bar to fit. (Learn how in bottom-dollar Grizzly, making it our
screws). The rest require removing the issue 179, on p. 24, or in a free down- Top Value.. .
sliding base from the baseplate, or, at loadable article at woodmagazine.com/
worst, the entire jig from the tablesaw. mitergaugetuneup.) Written by Dave Campbell with Steve Feeney

WHO CUT THE CHEEKS: 10 TABlESAW TENONING JIGS RATED

WORKPIECE CLAMP SLIDING PERFORMANCE GRADES (S) FOR MORE INFORMATION:
~~
PRIMARY SECONDARY
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SHOP FOX 03246 3}4 5 N N 18 R 5 P Y B- B B b b- b 18 C 70 800-840-8420 shopfox.biz
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STEEl CITY 35810 3~ R Y Y 18 R 5 5 Y B- B+ B- b+ b 23~ C 110 877-724-8665 steeicitytoolworks.com
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WOODCRAFT 144755 3}4 5 N N 18 R 5 P Y B- B B b+ b- b 18 C 90 800-225-1153 woodcraftcom

L (R) Rubber-covered steel 4. (P) Plastic 6. (C) China

(5) Steel (5) Steel (T) Taiwan

2. (R) Ratcheting lever

(K) Knob
S. ~ ,,,,II,", 7. Prices current at time of article
production and do not include
B Good
3. (5) Sleeve shipping, where applicable.
Fair
(P) Push-button

woodmagazine.com 71
 Salvage your own hardwood lumber and save big bucks.

Where to find it:

une in your wood-seeking radar, being remodeled or demolished, the bet- tectural beams, flooring, and custom

T and it's hard to not see salvageable

lumber. However, be prepared to
swallow some pride and roll up the
ter the chance for desirable old-growth
timber with tight growth rings.
Great finds: Hardwood floors, wide
furniture. Jay says farmers have specific
requirements when it comes to demoli-
tion. They need to avoid liabilities
shirtsleeves. You'll soon be asking favors trim, solid doors from residential sites; (meaning you better be insured and
of complete strangers, digging through timber beams from commercial sites. knowledgeable about dismantling
some less-than-clean locations, and put- Steer clear of: Post-Depression-era barns). And they want the entire barn
ting in lots of sweat-equity to reclaim homes. Standardized construction mate- gone, not just partially stripped.
that prize wood. rials were great for the housing boom, Great finds: Classic timber-frame con-
not sQ much for hardwood projects. struction, below, with long beams, straight
I brake for remodeling sites grain, and high board-foot yields.
Don't pass a remodel or demolition site Barnwood bonanza Steer clear of: Wood with signs of
. like the one shown below without put- Wooden barns are all the rage in the powder-post beetle or termite damage.
ting the car in reverse. In all likelihood, salvaged wood set. "But don't go hook- Live insects could easily spread through
that material in the construction dump- ing a chain to your truck hitch and pull- your wood pile and your home.
ster will go straight to the landfill unless ing one down on your head," warns Jay
you intervene. Seek out the head con- Wikary, CEO of American Barn Com- Trade with the trades
tractor or the property owner and pany of Chicago. His company special- A few minutes spent with the yellow
politely request to take some of it off izes in dismantling and salvaging barns pages could net you dozens of businesses
their hands. The older the building and turning the wood into rustic archi- that work· in hardwoods. From cabinet

NEW LIFE FOR AN OLD BARN

72 WOOD magazine October 2009

shops to doormakers, from boat-builders nizers for your shop. And if your city has cheap, available wood in one country is
to veneer manufacturers, any shop that a spring cleanup, hit the streets early- exotic in another.
cuts wood has offcuts left over. But don't maybe even the preceding evening-for Steer clear of: Pallets from pesticide,
go in empty-handed. Exchange sprin- the big scores. fertilizer, or other chemical companies.
kled donuts and hot coffee for valuable Great finds: Tabletops, headboards, Those stains might be hazardous.
hardwoods. You'll come out ahead in broken pianos, and church pews, below
the bargain. left, are the board-foot jackpot. Miniaturize for marketing
Great finds: Mahogany. Doors, boats, Steer dear of: Veneered woods mas- Running low. on wood? It's time to
and high-end cabinets still regularly querading as solid stock. downsize. Raid the scrapbin and turn
incorporate this sought-after wood. out some smaller projects. Not only do
Steer dear of: Efficient companies. Tiny The ever-present pallet they make great gifts and beautiful dis-
offcuts will pile up in your scrap bin. You'll find shipping pallets, below right, play items, but they also invite questions
at almost any company with a loading from your curious friends. When you
Don't discount the discards dock. But be warned; they represent the tell them about the project, make sure to
Discarded furniture might be the most most work for the yield with lots of nails include the story of where you got the
overlooked source for project wood. Just to pull and grit to clean up. So be picky. wood. Then be prepared to jot down
because it no longer looks like a board Don't waste that kind of time and effort phone numbers as they tell you about
doesn't mean it won't have usable wood. on common pine pallets. Look for hard- the friend of a friend with a garage full
Keep an eye out for garage-sale gems. woods instead (after getting permission of wood.
When you see a gOing-out-of-business at the front office). The heaviest or most Great finds: Acquaintances with out-
sale, skip the shoes and shirts and ask expensive items are generally shipped buildings and packrat tendencies.
about salvaging the shelving. Even if on oak pallets with thick pieces. Steer dear of: Becoming a packrat your-
you don't find any usable wood, you Great finds: Companies with over- self. Set a minimum size limit for offcuts
might come across cabinets or wall orga- sized international shipments. What's and rid your shop of anything smaller.
continued on page 74

woodmagazine.com 73
 How to work it:
Unless luck smiled on you, the wood 3. Reveal the grain cheap or old blade you don't mind dull-
you salvaged needs a little more work The last step before blade touches wood: ing. Then start by straight-line ripping
than lumberyard stock. Extra care is purge the last coat of dirt or any old, one edge with the tablesaw or a circular
required to avoid blade-dulling metal protective finish. This is no time for saw and straightedge. Flip the board and
fasteners and dirt. Simply focus on all finesse. Get out the belt sander and clear true up the opposite edge to parallel the
the money you saved, and the time will it away quickly with an 80-grit belt. first, removing just enough material to
fly by as you complete these easy steps. Keep the tool moving though. Belt sand- eliminate rot or stains. Give your jointer
ers hog away material qUickly and can and planer the same old-blade down-
1. Mind the metal gouge the surface in a heartbeat. grade before squaring and thicknessing
Public enemy number one to blades and the material.
bits: metal. Remove all obvious nails and 4. Lose the ends,
screws from the board. For hidden fas- save the blade 6. Celebrate the story
teners, use some of that money you The porous end-grain of wood collects With any heirloom furniture, the prov-
saved to invest in an inexpensive metal dirt like a celebrity tabloid. Boards piled enance proves almost as important as
detector, such as this one from Zircon in barns or dragged across the ground as the construction. Reclaimed lumber
(m40, $40, 800-245-9265, zircon.com). pallets especially pack away the grit. adds history on top of history. Celebrate
Mark the hot spots with chalk and cut Cutting off an inch or several from the that story by displaying it proudly in the
around them. ends of each board not only spares your wood. Rough edges, nail holes, worm
cutters, it removes splits from old, tracks, and faded finishes can all become
.2. A clean board checked boards. design elements in the final project.
is a happy board For every barn]ay Wikary salvages, he
Dirt runs a close second to metal in the 5. Can we just records the history. "We jot down what-
blade-dulling offender list. Scrub off any machine it already? ever we know about the barn. We put
loose grit with a stiff plastic- or brass- Yep. It's finally time to mill the wood that together with a picture and we give
bristle brush. Avoid steel bristles, which into usable material. First take off that that to everybody that gets one of our
may re-introduce a problem metal. expensive, premium blade and pop in a salvaged-wood products," he says. •
Written by Lucas Peters

"Under decades of dirt and grit, our salvaged

barnwood revealed treasured spalted figure.

74 WOOD magazine October 2009

GreatldeasforYourShog
Space-Saving
Clamp
Rack OU can never have too many

Y clamps, but organizing the

countless shapes and sizes they
come in can be a huge problem. Until
now. Build the unit as shown, or
customize it to fit your wall space. It's
made of inexpensive lx2 and lx4 pine;
numerous "shelves" support even large
clamp collections. In addition to lx4
shelves, it also has dowels for hanging
spring clamps and other small C-clamps.
To anchor the unit firmly to a wall,
screw lx2 cleats to the lx4 uprights,
and center the cleats over studs.•

Project design: Rod Cox, St. Paul, Iowa

lx4 ~

....-r..' t %"
)
#8 x 3" F.H.
wood screw into
wall stud or
hollow-wall .v %x 1'12 x 35"
mounting cleat
anchors

35" 35"

%" counterbores /" I ./ 5/32 " shank hole,

3fs" deep, centered V countersunk
15y.,"
V

Find dozens of FREE project plans at:

woodmagazine.com/freeplans

woodmagazlne.com
75
Shop-Proven Products About our product tests
We test hundreds of tools and accessories, but only those that earn at least three
These woodworking wares passed our shop trials stars for performance make the final cut and appear in this section. Prices are current
at the time of article production and do not include shipping, where applicable.

Oscillating drum sander flattens us with its stellar showing

When I tested five drum sanders
recently (issue 190, May 2009) I was
pleasantly surprised at how uniformly
. thick and smooth I could get work-
pieces with them. A couple of months
later I tested Jet's 22-44 Oscillating
Drum Sander, and I'm stunned by how
much quicker and smoother it gets the
job done. You can use the machine in
standard mode, or engage the oscillat-
ing feature and the drum glides back
and forth 1" as it rotates. This side-to-
side motion eliminates straight-line
scratches-common with standard
drum sanding-because it smooths in
two dimensions simultaneously.
Regardless of what wood I ran
through this machine, I got much
smoother surfaces using the oscillating
action than without; so smooth I only
needed a quick 220-grit sanding with
my random-orbit sander to finish the
job. Occasionally, the 22-44 left
squiggly "snake tracks"-curvy high
and low spots-but a second pass at the
same depth setting removed them and
left the panel dead flat. And even when
I sanded a 44"-wide panel, the thick- needing to use a random-orbit sander -Tested by Doug Hicks,
nessing accuracy across the workpiece for several grits of smoothing. You can a former shop teacher and
woodworking magazine editor
never differed more than .008"-more also save about $100 by skipping the
than acceptable. optional infeed and outfeed tables. I 22-44 Osdllating Drum Sander
This machine requires a significant tested this machine with them and Performance
investment, but the $600 premium without and got equal results. Plus, the Price
*****
$2,000
(compared to Jet's standard 22-44) can infeed table made it tougher to reach Jet
be recouped in time saved by not the drum to change sanding belts. 888-804-7129; jettools.com

Lock those chair joints provided bushing to center it. Remove

with Tenon-Lok the bushing, apply glue to the joint,
Chair joints endure more stress than insert the tenon, and then drive it
any other joint, often to the point of home with a mallet or clamp. As the
coming apart. RockIer's Tenon-Lok joint closes, the force drives the ring
solves that problem by creating incred- into the tenon, spreading it snugly
ibly strong and durable self-locking against the cone-shaped mortise walls, .
blind-wedge mortise-and-tenon joints. effectively locking the joint.
The system has two parts: one for RockIer sells the bits in four diam-
machining, and the other for assembly. eters: Vz, S/s, %, and 1". Insert rings sell
To make the joint, begin by crafting in packs of 12 for $S to $8.
your legs, stretchers, and rails as you
normally would, including tenons. Bore -Tested by Matt Seiler,
matching mortises. Next, use the a custom-furnituremaker
spring-loaded Tenon-Lok bit to bore out Tenon-Lokjoinery system
a cone shape inside the mortise. Performance
To assemble the joint, tap a Tenon- Price
Lok metal ring-ground sharp on one Rockier
end-to the end of a tenon using the 800-279-4441; rockler.com
continued on page 80
78 WOOD magazine October 2009
GAS-FIRED INFRARED ~-Proven Products
TUBE HEATERS
Sanding tight into corners?
are the ~ Overall No prolliem with Micro Zip
I was skeptical at first of the Gator
Method for Heating Micro Zip Sander, because I figured I
could always make a specialty sanding
your Workshop! block from scrapwood. But its soft-foam
handle and body proVide just the right
combination of fleXibility and rigidity,
making it comfortable to hold and
maneuver while keeping the sanding
surface flat. Its small 1x3" pad reaches
into tight corners, and the hook-and-
loop sandpaper proved easy to change.
I was able to sand up next to a finished -Tested by Craig Ruegsegger,
vertical surface without marring it. Multimedia Editor
Micro Zip does not offer refill
sanding strips, but another kit (with 10
Gator Micro Zip Sander
strips each of 80, 120, 220 grit) costs
just $10. Or you can buy hook-and-Ioop
Performance
Price
*****
$10
sheets from woodworking retailers and Ali Industries
cut your own to fit. 800-255-4748; zipsander.com

Digital mitersaws deliver accuracy to .1°

I demand a.ccuracy and
dependability from my
mitersaw every day or it's
off the jobsite. So I'm
comfortable saying Mil-
waukee's 12" dual-bevel
mitersaws are the best I've
ever used. Their digital
read-out miter scales,
displayed to .1°, proved
dead-on accurate. That kind
of repeatability is especially
important when several
D people use the saws and
change settings; it's easy to
return to a setup and know
it will be accurate. The
Gas fired infrared radiant heaters microadjuster with detent
provide dust-free, comfortable and override lets you zero in on
cost effective heat in your workshop. uncommon miter angles.
Studies have shown fuel cost
And the miter tables glide on needle
bearings so smoothly I forget I'm using
savings by as much as 50% over a mitersaw.
forced air systems. I'm not one for gimmicks (such as
lasers), but I really like the twin lights prepared if you plan to lug it
Contact us today for your free, mounted on each side of the blade around...
no-obligation analysis. because they illuminate the cut area -Tested by Dave Fish,
without glare or shadow. Both saws pro trim carpenter and cabinetmaker
DETROIT RADIANT have beefy IS-amp gear-driven motors
PRODUCTS COMPANY with soft-start that are strong enough 12" Dual-Bevel mitersaws
21400 Hoover Road, to blast through tough 4x4 ipe without Performance
Price #6950-20
*****
$525
Warren, MI48089 a hiCCUp. I could crosscut up to 7%"
with the standard compound model, #6955-20 (slider) $700
'Milwaukee
and with the slider I cut stock up to
800-222-1100 13 1/z" wide. Still, the slider weighs 6S
800-729-3878; milwaukeetool.com

lbs, 10 more than the compound, so be continued on page 82

For additional information,
visit www.drp-co.com/ads.
80 WOOD magazine October 2009
~-Proven Products
Quick-set jointer knives get you back in business
For many years, Dispozablade has ment knives cost from $25 to $70 for a
brought the convenience of disposable, set of three. Dispozablade also sells
self-indexing knives (like those on most cobalt knives in three-packs ($49 for 6",
benchtop planers) to jointers. Now, $63 for 8"). They are similar to carbide,
Dispozablade's Self-Set system makes meaning they maintain sharp edges
installing the knives foolproof. With a longer but prove more brittle. Self-Set
start-up kit you get three knives and knives do not fit all jointers and
three holders, with locating tabs for planers, as we found on those with
positioning on the cutterhead. After cutterheads that have rounded edges
removing your old knives and jack where the tabs rest. Call Dispozablade
screws-you won't need them any- to see whether Self-Set knives will work
more-mount a knife onto a holder, on your machine. (They prefer to talk
and place it in the cutterhead slot, with with customers rather than listing all
the tabs resting on the cutterhead, as tool matches on their Web site.)
shown at right. Tighten the gib bolts to
secure the knives and holders. That's it.
No knife-setting jig, no jacking around Self-Set disposable jointer knives
with jack screws.
If you nick the knives, simply loosen
Performance *****
Price 6" startup kit, $223; 8" startup kit, $255
the gib bolts and shift one knife to Dispozablade
offset the nicks. Because the knives 800-557-8092; dispozablade.com
have dual cuttingedges, you can flip
them when they become dull. (As with
disposable planer knives, we don't -Tested by Bob Hunter,
recommend resharpening them Tools and Techniques Editor
because it's difficult to achieve identical
grindings.) High-speed-steel replace-

82 WOOD magazine October 2009

A router table that thinks it's a shaper

What do you get when you
put the industry's biggest,
flattest, most durable top
on a rock-solid base with
unrivaled storage space?
The uItimate
router station
• Over 5 square feet of cast-
iron work surface
• Award winning fence
• Dust collection above
and below the table.
• Clever storage including
pull-out router bit trays

ProMaxRTComplete
Stock \\lo. 40-300

Learn more at e chdog.com

Ask WOOD HAVE A QUESTION?
For an answer to your woodworking question, write to ASK WOOD, 1716 Locust St.,
Answers to your questions from LS-221, Des Moines, IA 50309-3023 or e-mail us at askwood@woodmagazine.
letters, e-mails, and WOOD Online~ com. For immediate feedback from your fellow woodworkers, post your questions on
one of our woodworking forums at woodmagazine.com/forums.

Bandsaw small project parts,

preserve small body parts
Q. My jewelry box plans require me to bandsaw some
• small parts that would bring my fingertips close to
the blade. Is there a safe way to bandsaw small parts?
-Shirley Anderson, Rockford, /II.

A. Double-face-tape the blank for your curved part to a

• larger scrap of plywood or MDF, Shirley. Then hold the
scrapwood guide as you bandsaw the curved piece to shape, as
shown. This keeps your fingers safely away from the blade and
gives you much more control over the workpiece as you guide it
through the blade.

When a hole is not a hole

Q .I need to drill a hole about 12"
.Iong to route a cord through
a lamp base. Is there a way to drill a
hole that deep and stay true?
-Michael Ke/ly, Summit, N.J.

A .The best way to drill a deep hole,

• Michael, is to forget about the
drill. Turn instead to your tablesaw or
router table.
If you're cutting the lamp base from
solid stock, cut your base blank to its
final dimension, plus about 3;]6" extra
width to account for your blade's kerf.
Joint or sand it to clean up the faces.
Then rip the base in half at your
tablesaw. (Be sure to use multiple passes
with successively higher blade heights thicknesses, but don't glue the two Alternatively, if you absolutely need a
for stock thicker than 1" or so.) Other- halves together, yet. Use a dado blade to round hole, you can use a core box bit
wise, if you're laminating a blank from cut a centered groove in the inside faces at your router table. Then simply glue
multiple layers, build up two half- of the lamp base halves, as shown. and clamp the two halves together.

Never too late to learn about latewood Earlywood Latewood

Q .I overheard my hardwood dealer speaking to a customer

• about Ilatewood." I didn't want to interrupt their conversa-
tion, but I'm unfamiliar with the term. What is latewood?
-Ron Altier, West Lafayette, Ohio

A• Ron, the terms latewood and earlywood refer to the different

• densities of wood produced in a tree in the course of a year's
growth. Early in the growing season, in the wet spring, a tree grows
rapidly, producing large-vessel cells. As water becomes more scarce later
in the season, the tree's growth slows, producing smaller cells. Year after
year, this pattern creates the tree's growth rings, the earlywood generally
showing up as the more porous, lightly colored wood, and the latewood
as the darker, tighter-grained wood.

woodmagazine.com 83
 PNEUMATIC TOOLS Ask WOOD
FOR PROFESSIONALS
~3: Gayg,~ HQCJ¥¥, Duty' Mag,ne$iuR!lJ
BQd,y Mi~lTCi); PililJ N:aUQ!i' P625 Back-and-forth
• Automatically adjusts for fastener bandsaw blade blues
lengths between 1/2" & 1"
• Operating pressure: 60-100 PSI
• Magazine capacity: 150
Q _lloved your online video
_ about how to tune up a
ban(tsaw (woodmagazine.coml
bandsawtuneup). Ifollowed all of
your steps to the letter. However,
my bandsaw blade has a back-
and-forth motion. What's causing
this and how do I correct it?
-James Mulholland, Romulus, Mich.

1a Gaug~ Qrad NailQr 1,630

• Automatically adjusts for fastener lengths
A _If the blade was welded even
• slightly out of square, it
would show up as the back-and-
between 5/8" & 2" forth motion that you describe,
• Comes in a rugged plastic case James. Remove the blade and replace
• Strong & Iight.weight body with safety trigger it with another. If the problem goes
• B630K kit indudes brad nail packs of all sizes away, call the blade manufacturer or
•• ••••• •• the retailer where you purchased the
defective blade, and ask for a
replacement.
If the problem persists, check the
tires on the wheels. The blade on a
saw left idle for long periods of time
can leave an impression in the
rubber tire which might cause
erratic tracking. Purchase and install
aftermarket replacement tires. (Enter
"bandsaw tire" in the search box at
woodcraft.com.)
Families Have Saved Up To 50% On Heating Costs If you still see a back-and-forth
motion, the culprit is probably the
And never have to buy fuel- oil, gas, kerosene, wood - ever againl wheel itself. A bad bearing or a bent
y.... 1eIIefits willi Hyft-SI: shaft warrant a call to the manufac-
• Slosh heating cost wilh Hydro-Sd turer who can direct you to the
• Furnace free - dUd free nearest service center. •
• Ufelime warranty. Na service contracts
• Safe, complete peace of mind
• aeon, no fumes, environmentaUy safe
• U.L.listed
• Preassembled - ready 10 use
• Portable (1I0V) or permanent (220V)
• Whole house healing or single room
220 VOLT Approx. Area S&H Discount
PERMANENT 10 Heal Price QIy.
8' 2000 w 250-300 sf $25 $319
Hydro-Sil is a high perfonnance individual room
6' 1500 w 180-250 sf $25 $289
heating system that can save you hundreds of dollars 5' 1250 w 130-180 sf $25 $259
in home heating costs by replacing old and inefficient 4' 1000 w 100-130 sl $18 $239
heating. It can replace or supplement your electric heat, 3' 750 w 75-100 sf $18 $189
2' 500 w 50-75 sf $18 $169
gas or oil furnace and woodstoves. -
Thermostats - Call for options & exact heater needed.
Hydro-5il represents economy in heating: inside the
110 VOLT PORTABLES S&H
Discount
QIy.
heater is a sealed copper chamber filled with a hannless (Thermostal included.) Price
silicone Auid designed for heat retention qualities. The 5' Hydro-Max 750-1500 w $25 $229
3' 750 w - Siiicone $18 $179
Auid is quickly heated by a varying amount of micro-
Heav -Dul 240v $25 $329
managed proportional power. This exclusive technology
Total Amount
greatly increases energy savings.
Name' _
Check _ MasterCard _ Visa _ Discover Address; _

1-800-627-9276 City
Zip Phone
8t _
_

www.hydrosil.com MasterCard, Visa or Discover Account Information:

Acct# _
Hydro-SiI, P.O. Box 662, ForI Mill, SC 29715 Expiration Date' _ 84 WOOD magazine October 2009
What's Ahead
November 2009: You'll find projects galore! (on sale October 13)

Mantel clock
Create this heirloom-quality timepiece in just aweek-
end. You'll need only common router bits to make the
detailed and handsome stacked-molding top.

Dovetailed blanket chest Construction-grade excavator

You can hand-cut dovetails for this chest by following the simple step-by-step instructions and numerous Dig this! Extend the boom arm to scoop items into the
photos. Give it atry-with confidence-thanks to the easy, invisible fixes you'll find for any less-than- pint-size bucket, then pivot the body to dump the load.
perfect joint. You'll find many ways to customize this project: from joinery, to woods, to base designs. Aton of fun for budding contractors (and for you!).

Top tablesaw blades under $50 Our best router bit setup tips Takes-a-beating, budgeHriendly workbench
We tested dozens of rip, crosscut, and multi- Reduce your setup times, increase your accuracy, and Build this simple bench in aweekend using economical
purpose blades, and found several great· boost your overall results with four pages of helpful plywood, 2x4s, and other dimensional lumber. Then
bargains that make clean, accurate cuts. hints for both handheld and table routing. wheel it to wherever you ne~d asturdy work surface.

92