TE ACH K I DS WOO DWO R K I N G : A PROVE N 4 -STE P PL AN !

ISSUE 178 SEPTEMBER 2007 Better Homes and Gardens® FR

PA EE
TTE FU
RN LL
S IN -S
SID IZE
E

Heirloom
Cradle 47
Build Your Skills
• Clamping Secrets
• No-slip Miters
Craft it this weekend. Time- and • Template Routing
Cherish it for generations. Money-Saving T • Faux Finishes
ips
Inside!
20 Tools Tested
• 12" Mitersaws
Stores flat in • Parallel Jaw Clamps
it’s own case!
• Steel Rules

More Great
Projects
• Space-saving
Outfeed Table
• Tablesaw
Alignment Jig
• Catchall Box
• Tower Shelves
Display until August 28, 2007
• Bistro Stool
$6.99 U.S. / $7.95 CAN.
 38 in this issue
46

52 PROJEC TS

82
12 Great ideas for your shop:
Tablesaw alignment block
22 Quick and easy jig: Edging trimmer
38 Cover project: Heirloom cradle
When baby outgrows it, the cradle knocks down
flat. You’ll even find plans for a storage box. TECHNIQUES
46 Tablesaw workbench 26 Template routing for multiple parts
This sturdy worksurface straddles your saw to 32 Three faux finishes
save precious workshop space. Make wood look like leather, pewter, or aged paint.
52 Tower shelves 66 Growing tomorrow’s woodworkers
72 Catch-all box Use Paul Meisel’s proven four-point plan to teach
It displays photos while storing desktop kids basic woodworking skills.
accessories or treasured keepsakes. 92 Bone up on your mitersaw skills
82 Bistro stool Take this simple refresher course to ensure that
you’re working safely and accurately.
98 10 clamping goofs: How to avoid them
108 Prevent miter-joint slippage
TO O L S & M AT E R I A L S
24 Wise buys: Precision steel rules
78 Shop test: Parallel-jaw clamps
86 12” mitersaws tested and graded
D E PA R T M E N T S
Supersize your crosscutting capacity with a step-up saw. 8 Editor’s Angle
A good one is more affordable than you might think. 10 Sounding Board
102 Shop-proven products 14 Shop Tips
The turning tool that never needs sharpening,
and a whisper-quiet air compressor. 20 Ask WOOD
120 What’s Ahead

72 86
®

This seal is your assurance that we

build every project, verify every
fact, and test every reviewed tool
in our workshop to guarantee your
success and complete satisfaction.

2 WOOD magazine September 2007

September 2007 Issue 178
on the web
woodmagazine.com
V IS I T T H E A L L - N E W WO O D O N L I N E !
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32 ■ An entire library of FREE wood-

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78
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66
GE T TO K N O W T H E WOOD ED I TO R S ®

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staffer is a woodworker. And at
woodmagazine.com/editorblogs we share
entertaining insights about our shop
experiences, our personal areas of
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108
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 Better Homes and Gardens®

®
September 2007 Vol. 24, No. 4 Issue No. 178

Editor-in-Chief
BILL KRIER
Managing Editor Deputy Editor
MARLEN KEMMET DAVE CAMPBELL
Senior Design Editor
KEVIN BOYLE
Techniques Editor Tool & Techniques Editor
BOB WILSON BOB HUNTER
Projects Editor Projects Editor
OWEN DUVALL JAN SVEC Bob designed and built these
Design Editor Master Craftsman Chinese checker games using an
JEFF MERTZ CHUCK HEDLUND old game board as a template.
Owen built a dyed oak Art Director Associate Art Director Assistant Art Director
mission-style coffee table KARL EHLERS GREG SELLERS CHERYL A. CIBULA
as a gift.
Production/Office Manager Administrative Assistant
MARGARET CLOSNER SHERYL MUNYON
Photographers
MARTY BALDWIN, JASON DONNELLY, DEAN SCHOEPPNER, JAY WILDE
Illustrators TIM CAHILL, LORNA JOHNSON, ROXANNE LeMOINE
Technical Consultants JEFF HALL, PAT LOWRY
Contributing Craftsman JIM HEAVEY
Proofreaders BARBARA KLEIN, IRA LACHER, JIM SANDERS

SUBSCRIBER SERVICE
Go to woodmagazine.com/help or write to
WOOD magazine, P.O. Box 37439, Boone, IA 50037-0439
Publisher MARK L. HAGEN
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CHICAGO: 333 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 1500, Chicago, IL 60601
Marketing Manager AMANDA SALHOOT
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Direct Response Advertising Representative RYAN INTERLAND
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During a mission to ATLANTA: Navigate Media
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built tables, benches, Product Marketing Manager Diana Willits
and desks for an
orphaned-boys school. Business Manager JEFF STILES
Associate Consumer Marketing Director DAN HOLLAND
Associate Director of Marketing-Newsstand TOM DEERING
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C O R P O R AT I O N

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C O R P O R AT I O N

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4 WOOD magazine September 2007

Editor’s Angle
The NEW WOODmagazine.com

You’ll love it!

We’ve recently gone through an intensive, year-long process to
completely revamp the WOOD® Web site. Our goal was ambitious:
create the most user-friendly, entertaining, information-packed
woodworking destination on the Web. I’m hoping you will
check it out, and then let me know how well we’ve done.

Relaunching WOODmagazine.com was a huge task. Here’s the team that got it done
(from left): Victor Mutambuki, Jennifer Schulze, Marlen Kemmet, Christy Ludemann,
Dave Campbell, Ashley Werner, Matt Snyder, Kate Stone, and Shannon Early.

I
f you’ve visited woodmagazine.com woodworking terms, editor blogs, and
lately, you may not believe all of the project and shop galleries from wood-
helpful, absolutely free woodworking workers around the world. (Consider this
information you can find there. Thanks your invite to post your own shots.)
go to the cyber-savvy crew above who And while you’re there, don’t forget to
rebuilt every page of the site, reorganiz- sign up for the free newsletter. Like the
ing it so you can quickly find exactly Web site, it’s better than ever. In addition
what you need. No matter your wood- to woodworking news, sweepstakes
working requirements, you’ll get the announcements, and free downloadable
answers and information you need 24 plans, you’ll regularly find exclusive
hours a day, 7 days a week. articles on new developments in tools
Of course all of your favorite features and accessories. It’s a quick but powerful
are still there, just enhanced and read, packed with benefits. We’ll e-mail it
expanded: 14 forums for asking for to you every couple of weeks unless you
woodworking advice (and sharing it); tell us to stop.
a comprehensive index to hundreds of Please let me know what you think of
WOOD® magazine articles and projects; these improvements. Just e-mail me at
a monthly tool sweepstakes; free down- bill.krier@meredith.com
loadable plans; and a rapidly growing
archive of incredibly informative, free Happy surfing,
woodworking videos.
You’ll also find new features sure to
earn computer bookmarks: a “wiki” of

8 WOOD magazine September 2007

 Sounding Board
Our bulletin board for letters, comments, and timely updates

Reader carves up a new twist for cutting board

I really liked your end-grain cutting cutting board from cherry, maple, and Now it doubles as a serving tray as well
board in issue 172 (October 2006, page walnut scrap. Then I went a step as a cutting board when flipped over. I
82), and planned to make it from scrap further and added tall sides. I used a made the carrier with handles to fit this
stock in my shop. Then, when I saw the round-nose router bit to relieve the serving tray.
casserole carrier in issue 173 (November inside face for a smooth countour —Steve Zentko, Struthers, Ohio
2006, page 40), I had the idea to merge where it meets the base, and I rounded
the two. I started by building the the top edges with a round-over bit.

tal Brass Bronze

+ =
Resourceful reader Drill antlers with this fail-safe clamping jig
gains storage in bench I’ve been turning pens from deer antlers for years, and after reading your antler-
Oak
My wife has drilling tip in issue 173 (November 2006, page 24), I thought I’d share my remedy
e Walnut Cherry
always for tricky clamping. Because antlers are almost never straight and smooth, I
wanted a fashioned a wood vise with 3 ⁄ 8"-thick rubber anti-vibration pads (Woodcraft part
hall bench #04A42, $16.50, woodcraft.com or 800-225-1153) that conform to the shape of the
MDO Hardboard
for our antler when tightened. This
F
home. As I makes for a sturdier, safer
was looking hold for boring. Be sure to
through my leave the rubber pads 1 ⁄4"
Partical
Presser back issues short of the bottom edge of
Treated
of WOOD® the clamping blocks to allow
magazine, I for expansion under
found the clamping pressure. To be even
answer on safer, clamp the vise to the ‹" fender Wood clamp pad
washer ‡"
page 42 of issue 145 (November 2002). drill-press table. I draw Centering
As we talked about it she asked if I could centering lines on the top and lines
enclose the bottom shelf for additional bottom edges of the vise jaws;
Plastic
storage. So I did just that with three flat then align the middle of the knob 2fi"
A N
panels on the front and back to mirror antler to the lines to avoid
the sides. IBlined
O the interior with boring through the sides of
aromatic cedar, and then hinged the the antlers. Wear a respirator 4"
C Pas a lid. I gave it to her for
seat to double or dust mask to avoid Rubber anti-
‹" carriage bolt vibration pads
ChristmasD2006. Q breathing the fine antler dust. 4" long
—John Hoffman, Lancaster, N.Y. —Billy Allmon, Fort Worth, Texas
E R
HOWF TO
S REACH US

 For woodworking
G T advice:  Subscription assistance:  To order past issues and articles:
Post your woodworking questions (joinery, To notify us of an address change, or to Order past issues of WOOD magazine, our
U turning, general woodwork-
finishing,Htools, get help with your subscription, visit special issues, or downloadable articles from
ing, etc.) on one of 14 online forums at woodmagazine.com/help. Or write to WOOD issue 100 to present: Visit our online store at
V
I
woodmagazine.com/forums. magazine, P.O. Box 37439, Boone, IA 50037- woodmagazine.com/store, or call
Z W 0439. Please enclose your address label from 888-636-4478. Some issues are sold out.
J
 To contact our editors: a recent magazine issue.
K Send your comments via e-mail to  Updates to previously published projects:
woodmail@woodmagazine.com; or write  To find past articles: For an up-to-date listing of changes in
to WOOD magazine, 1716 Locust St., LS-221, See our index at woodmagazine.com/index. dimensions and buying-guide sources
Des Moines, IA 50309; or call 515-284-3236. from issue 1 through today, go to
woodmagazine.com/editorial.

10 WOOD magazine September 2007

Great Ideas for Your Shop

Tablesaw
alignment
block
End burned cuts, kickback,
and less-than-perfect miters.

U
se this simple jig to align
both your tablesaw blade A
and rip fence for clean, If the acorn nut touches the front and back of
accurate cuts. Start by cutting the the blade or fence the same, you’re parallel. If
three pieces of 3 ⁄4"-thick stock to the a gap or tighter squeeze exists at the front or
back, you need to correct the alignment.
sizes shown in the drawing. The
center piece should be just a hair
narrower than your tablesaw miter-
gauge slot so it slides back and
forth easily without play. Drill the
holes in the center piece to the
stated sizes. Epoxy a 1 ⁄4" lock nut
into the 5 ⁄8" hole, being careful not
to get any epoxy into the inside B
‹-20 five-arm knob
threaded portion of the nut.
Glue and clamp the side pieces to the
center piece. Crosscut a piece of 1 ⁄4 ×20 ‹" hex nut
all-thread rod to 8" long. Thread a 1 ⁄4" ‹" lock nut epoxied 8"
hex nut about 1 ⁄2" onto one end of the into fl" hole ‡"
rod. Then, thread a plastic knob onto
‹ x 20 all-thread rod
the same end. Tighten the hex nut 8" long
against the knob to lock the knob in
place. Thread the rod through the lock
nut (it threads slowly) and thread an
acorn nut onto the end opposite the 4"
plastic knob. ‹" acorn nut
3"
To align your blade to the miter- fl" hole ¤" deep with a
gauge slot, position the block where ‹" hole centered inside
shown [Photo A] at the front edge of the
›"
fully raised blade. Twist the threaded ‡"
rod until the acorn nut just touches
the blade. Move the block to the back 1fi" Width of miter-gauge slot
edge of the blade. If there’s a tighter fit
or a gap shows between the blade and
acorn nut, you’ll need to adjust the
trunnion or table (depending on your Find more shop-organizer plans at:
saw) until the blade is parallel to the woodmagazine.com/freeplans
slot. Use a similar process to align the
rip fence [Photo B] parallel to the miter-
gauge slot. ¿ Project design: Howard Autry, Sonora, Calif.

12 WOOD magazine September 2007

Shop Tips The Top Tipster
Helping you work faster, smarter, and safer

Out with the bad air, in with the good

Many woodworkers hook up a 4" dust- tool cabinet, such as one below a router

Photo: Kristine Buls

collection hose to a mostly enclosed table or downdraft table. They figure
that by pulling 4" worth of air through
Top Shop Tip a 1" bit opening, the dust and chips
ought to go screaming
through the box and into Jim Kahl’s interest in woodworking
that dust hose. But in smoldered for about 20 years while he
Vacuum port truth, they’re choking off built his home-improvement business.
the airflow, killing the Then, about four years ago, his wife
dust-collection efficiency. Carol asked him to build a frame for a
To remedy this problem, stained-glass window she was
Blast simply install a dust- making. That rekindled his passion for
gate collection blast gate on the all things wood, and he has since built
cabinet, opposite the hose much of the furniture in their home
Airflow 0603-05
for outgoing dust, as
shown. By opening this
near Chesapeake Bay. That includes
the entertainment center, shown
blast gate, you create a above, that features interchangeable
7-21-03 TJC seasonal panels. Jim’s Top Shop Tip, at
“river” of air flowing
through the cabinet. left, proves that glass isn’t the only
Debris gets pulled into the sharp thing in his shop.
river and carried down-
stream to the collector. If
you lose too much suction
with the gate wide open,
gradually close it until you We’re sending
achieve maximum dust a Penn State
collection. Industries
Tempest
—Jim Kahl, Edgewood, Md. 142CX cyclone
dust collector to
Jim Kahl for
submitting the
Slide thin strips through the sander on a nonslip carrier Top Shop Tip in this
issue. Great job, Jim!
To make thin hardwood strips for and then tried to sand the pieces
edging and Shaker-style boxes, I to final thickness—about 1 ⁄8"—on my
bandsawed stock to rough thickness drum sander. As the strips approached
3 ⁄ 16", however, they
Top tips earn tools!
would sometimes Tell us how you’ve solved a workshop
break. stumper, and you’ll get $75 if we print
I solved the it. And, if your idea garners Top Shop
Sandpaper problem by gluing Tip honors, we’ll also reward you with
strip 120-grit sandpaper a tool prize worth at least $250.
¹⁄₄" hardboard glued to to a 1 ⁄4 ×6×36" piece Send your best ideas, along with
carrier carrier of hardboard. Now photos or drawings and your daytime
Veneer the thin wood rides phone number, to Shop Tips, WOOD
edging through the sander Magazine, 1716 Locust St., LS-221,
perfectly on the Des Moines, IA 50309-3023. Or, by
carrier board, and I e-mail to shoptips@woodmagazine.
can sand strips com. Include your contact info in the
uniformly to 1 ⁄8" or e-mail as well.
thinner regardless Because we publish only original
of grain. tips, please send your tips only to
—Thomas L. Peters, WOOD ® magazine. Sorry, submitted
Midland, Mich. materials can’t be returned.
continued on page 16

14 WOOD magazine September 2007

Shop Tips
Workpiece
A sure-footed partner
for unsteady nailing
Nailing drawer boxes together used to
frustrate me as I tried to steady the Sliding supports
wobbly parts while keeping them aligned
Side support
and trying to drive a nail. This clamping
jig adds stability to this ungainly process. Fixed end
You can make the jig to whatever size Star knob
best suits your needs, but the dimensions
T-track 5‡"
shown will accommodate very large and
fairly small boxes. Build the jig from any ‡"
type of scrap stock; you’ll find the star Base
10"
knobs and T-tracks at woodworking
36"
supply stores.
—Lynn Lawrenz, Algoma, Wis.

Reshape low-cost hinges

for a sophisticated look
I make a lot of jewelry boxes and other
small boxes that I give as gifts. To get a
tight fit between the lid and the box,
though, I found I had to either use an
expensive hinge or cut a mortise deeper
Finished hinge installed
than the hinge leaf to compensate for the
thickness of the hinge’s barrel. I solved
Lid
this problem by reshaping less-expensive
hinges so the leaves lie flat against each
Boxother in the closed position.
To reshape the hinge, place it in a vise,
as shown, so the hinge, including the
barrel, is completely inside the jaws, with
a thick, flat metal bar on one side of the
hinge just below the barrel. Now tighten
the vise securely until the leaf conforms
to the metal bar. If done correctly, the
hinge leaves will
lie flat against Finished hinge installed
each other as if
they were manu-
factured that way. Lid
—Gene Carter,
Morgan, Utah Box

Flat metal Brass

bar hinge

16 WOOD magazine SeptemberFlat

2007metal
bar
 Sand to the beat of a lathe-mounted drum
I made a few of wine bottle holders, First, I glued up a 3"-thick 7⁹⁄₁₆"-diameter
Masking tape
3" thick
shown at near right, from WOOD® blank out of 2×10 stock and for snug fit
lamination
magazine issue 167 (November 2005, bandsawed it into an 8" disc.
page 8) for Christmas gifts. After Next, I mounted the blank on my lathe
cutting out the holder on my bandsaw, and turned it to 79 ⁄16", with a slight
it was easy enough to sand out the round-over on the edge of the drum to
outside curve with my belt sander, but ease belt installation.
the inside curve was a different story. One thing I’ve learned after using the 3 x 24"
The crescent measures about 10" in drum for awhile: Not all 24" sanding sanding belt
diameter and the largest sanding drum belts are created equal. If the belt is too
I could find had only a 3" diameter, tight, turn the drum slightly smaller. A ¹⁄₄" round-over
which made it difficult to get a smooth slightly loose belt is better because the
surface. Then I realized a 3×24" sanding diameter can be increased or reduced
belt would work if I created a mega- with layers of masking tape.
sized sanding drum. —Jerry O’Banion, Meadow Grove, Neb.

“Cheat sheet” 1-30-06 TJC

meets cookie sheet edit 7-28-06 TJC

120505_#100204864
I’ve used the WOOD magazine “Drill
Press Speed Chart” (woodmagazine.
com/charts) for years, trying to keep it
taped up on the perforated hardboard
behind my drill press, but it kept falling
Tim: moved type so it doesn’t go any farther left of
off. To prevent that, I grabbed an old
thiscookie
line. sheet
You canfrommoved the speed
the kitchen, taped chart type up so
it doesn’t fall over the other type.
the chart to the metal, and hung it onPlease also move the
a hook.
brown background with the holes up about 2 picas. Also the
Then, taking it a step further, I made
lineanisadditional
missing chart
fromofthe
myarrow head to the type, please fix.
drill press
Thanks
speed Cheryl
settings, added it to the sheet,
and stuck on a magnet to identify the
current speed setting. Now I know
whether I need to open my drill press
case to change its speed.
—Larry Cramer, Troy, Mich.

Magnet set on
current speed
Speed chart

Recommended Operating Speeds

Cookie sheet

continued on page 18
woodmagazine.com 17
Shop Tips
Double-duty fence
stretches router table capacity
The problem with most router tables is that the fence won’t
adjust more than a few inches from the bit. While that’s fine for
edge work and a few other situations, it doesn’t make full use of
the table (for example, when fluting a wide workpiece). Fence remains
parallel to table.
To improve the situation, make this two-way alternate fence
that works with both the length and width of your table.
Depending on the table size, you may be able to firmly position
the fence up to 20" away from the bit. The side arms automati-
cally align the fence with the table and a pair of bar clamps hold
the fence solidly in place. ¿
—Allan Rice, Winnipeg, Man.

Width of router table

2"

8" Length of router

table plus 4"
8"
4"

Length of router table

8"
All parts 6M"
Baltic Birch plywood
#8 x156M" Side arm
2" F.H. woodscrew

18 WOOD magazine September 2007

Fence remains
parallel to table.
Ask WOOD HAVE A QUESTION?
For an answer to your woodworking question, write to ASK
Saw motor chang
Ask Wood
Answers to your questions from WOOD, 1716 Locust St., LS-221, Des Moines, IA 50309-3023, September issue
letters, e-mails, and WOOD Online® or e-mail us at askwood@woodmagazine.com. For immediate TJC
feedback from your fellow woodworkers, post your questions on
one of our woodworking forums at woodmagazine.com/forums.

Find alternatives to supersizing your tablesaw motor

Q: I have trouble ripping thick
hardwood boards with my 10"
contractor-style tablesaw. Assum-
though, so consider adding a pair of
blade stiffeners even if they reduce your
maximum cutting depth. With that
sufficient electricity. If it trips a breaker
under the strain of ripping thick stock,
rewire the saw for 220 volts to handle
ing the motor mount would fit, can done, make certain your saw gets the added amperage draw.
I replace the existing 1½-hp motor
with a 3-hp motor?
—Rich Clayton, Ames, Iowa

A: Swapping motors won’t double

your saw’s cutting power. And it
could cause more problems than it
solves, Rich. Unlike a cabinet-style saw
that’s designed to handle a 3- or 5-hp
motor, there’s no guarantee any added
power could be delivered to the blade
by a contractor saw’s belt drive. And
because the motor’s weight provides
tension on the drive belt, a hefty 3-hp
motor could apply more strain to the
arbor bearings than they were designed
to handle.
A better—and cheaper—way to boost
the cutting efficiency of your saw is to
rip with a blade designed for ripping.
For example, replace your 40- or 50-
tooth general-purpose blade with a 24-
tooth ripping blade. A thin-kerf blade
requires still less muscle because it takes
a smaller kerf out of your stock. Thin-
kerf blades can deflect in thick stock,

Set up your saw for bevels

Q: I’m making a platform bed
with 3"-square curly maple
legs, each made from four ¾×3"
parallel with the miter slot, and
therefore the blade. Use a drafting
triangle to check the angle of your
pieces beveled 45° on the edges. I blade; then lock the bevel wheel in
tilted my (new) tablesaw blade and place. Cut test pieces from scrap to
checked the angle twice. But out of check for joint gaps, and fine-tune
four boards, two align only halfway the angle. With your tablesaw in
along the bevels, and the other two order, next make sure you’ve Hold-
didn’t line up at all—as if the bevel machined all stock flat, straight, down
changed in mid-cut. I reset the saw and square.
again from scratch with the same For controlled bevel cuts, attach
results. What’s wrong? a hold-down to your fence, as
—Jim Rushing, Vancouver, Wash. shown at right. On both passes, use
a feather board to keep the stock

A:
Apply minimal
Let’s rule out the most obvious snugly against the fence. On the
pressure here.
causes first, Jim. Check your saw second pass, the hold-down will
alignment by first making the blade help prevent the beveled edge To keep your workpiece from shifting as you cut,
dead-on parallel with the table’s miter from trying to climb up the side of use both a feather board on your saw table and a
slot. Then check the fence to ensure it’s the fence. ¿ hold-down clamped to the fence.

20 WOOD magazine September 2007

 Quick & Easy Jig
Edging
Flush-
Trimmer
Create even-Steven edging with
this easy-to-make accessory.

H
ere’s a no-nonsense router jig
that helps you trim solid-wood
edging perfectly flush with
plywood panels. No more heavy
sanding and no risk of sanding through #8 x 1" panhead screw
the thin plywood veneer. The jig base
and handled fence enable you to safely ‰" flat washer 1" 4"
keep the router stable and square on
the workpiece. FLUSH-TRIM JIG ˇ" slot 1›" long
10"
To make the jig base, remove your
router baseplate and measure its BASE
N
diameter. Then cut a piece of 1 ⁄4"
O hardboard to a width equal to your ‹" hardboard Diameter and mounting holes,
measurement and 10" long. Center the countersunk on bottom face,
P 1¤" hole, to suit router
baseplate on the hardboard. Trace centered
Q around the baseplate, and mark 1" opening 3‡" long, centered 2"
2fi"
centerpoints for the router mounting
R
holes and 11 ⁄8" center hole. Next, draw 8"
S 3fi"
lines to complete the layout, and mark
‡"
a centerpoint and lay out the slot for
T
screw-mounting the base to the fence, 1" FENCE
U where dimensioned on the drawing,
right. Bandsaw the base to shape, drill ‹" round-overs 1" dado 1" deep
V
the holes, and form the slot. Œ"
HANDLE
W From 3 ⁄4" stock (we used poplar), cut a (centered on fence) 1"
X 21 ⁄2 ×8" blank for the handle. Lay out
Œ" rabbet ‹" deep 12"
and machine the handle to shape. 5fi"
Y
From laminated 3 ⁄4" stock or a pine
Z 2×4 (11 ⁄2 ×31 ⁄2" actual), cut the fence to 1fi"
size. Cut or rout the rabbet and dado in
the fence to the dimensions shown.
the photo, right, and tighten the screw.
Assemble the jig For a panel that has a slight bow,
Glue and clamp the handle, centered, position the fence with the bearing a
to the outside face of the fence. Next, whisker proud of the fence for the best
mount the base to your router, and result. Secure the workpiece safely
position the base on the fence with the vertically in a vise with the edging up.
mounting hole and center of the slot Adjust the bit height as needed, and
offset 1" from the outside face of the position the jig base on the edging.
fence. Drill pilot holes into the fence, Holding the router with one hand and
and drive the screws with flat washers. keeping the fence tight against the
panel with the other, start the router
Now let’s put it to work and trim the edges. To flush-trim the
To use the jig, loosen the screw ends, make a simple cutoff guide as
in the178FlushJig_#100504911.eps
FILENAME: Use a straightedge to align the fence with the
slot in the base. Align the Date:
fence3-07
with explained in the Shop Tip on page 53. ¿ flush-trim bit. Then tighten the slot screw to
the flush-trim bit bearing,Lorna J.
as shown in Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson Filename:
secure 178 Towershelves 5
the alignment.
R LeMoine
22 2-21-07WOOD magazine September 2007
Wise Buys Why buy?
One of the most important woodworking tools you should own is
a dead-on-accurate steel rule. It not only helps you mark perfect
measurements, but it also proves indispensable at setting blade and
bit heights on machines, as well as checking the accuracy of measur-
Our Editors Test ing tapes. If you can get only one such rule, we recommend a 12"

Precision
version. We tested several models in each of the three categories
shown below, and then named our favorite rule for each category.
All of our picks here feature a dull finish (to diffuse glare), etched

Steel Rules
markings (which are more precise) rather than printed or stamped
(which can rub off with wear), and scales in at least 1⁄8" and 1⁄16" incre-
ments. While a 1⁄32" scale proves useful, we find 1⁄64" scales difficult to
read and mark.

STANDARD BENCH RULE Editor test-drive:

Lee Valley, model 60N20.06, $10 Lee Valley’s rule provides the essentials Starrett’s standard rule (.025"). The
for a bench rule at an attractive price. Its only shortcoming I could find with the
matte finish on hardened stainless steel Lee Valley rule was the absence of end
proved the best at resisting glare of the scales: perpendicular markings at one or
four standard bench rules we tested. It both ends of the rule. These prove
has easy-to-read 1⁄8" and 1⁄16" scales along helpful for setting router bit and saw
one side and 1⁄32" and 1⁄64" scales on the blade heights. Starrett’s rule has these
other. Another nice feature: The etched markings, but its $32 price tag triples
fraction lines are proportional for quick that of the Lee Valley.
reference, with 1⁄2" marks longest, 1⁄4" —Tested by Jeff Mertz, Design Editor
and 3⁄4" next longest, and so on.
I also preferred the beefier thickness To learn more:
of Lee Valley’s rule (.040") to that of 800-871-8158; leevalley.com

CENTERING RULE Editor test-drive:

Hartville Tool, model 13404, $20 If you’re like me, you have a tough time In addition to this feature, the Hartville
justifying the purchase of a rule devoted rule has standard scales in 1⁄8", 1⁄16", and
solely to finding the center of a board. 1⁄32" increments. The etched markings

Hartville has the perfect compromise: A are graduated in length for quick
centering rule that’s also an exemplary reference. It also has 1⁄32" end scales for
standard rule. I tried out five centering machinery setup. The no-glare finish
rules, and this one proved good enough allows me to write on it with a pencil to
to hold its own in the standard bench mark a dimension when I need to make
rule category. Hartville devotes only one repeated measurements, and then wipe
of its four scales to centering, with it off when I’m done. Because the
markings in 10-mm increments. (It tempered rule measures .042" thick, I
doesn’t matter that it’s metric; you only can count on it to remain straight.
need symmetrical markings to find a —Tested by Jan Svec, Projects Editor
centerpoint.) Just position the rule so
matching increments rest on the To learn more:
endpoints, and mark the center at zero. 800-345-2396; hartvilletool.com

HOOK RULE Editor test-drive:

L.S. Starrett Co., model CD604R-12, $38.50 I love this rule because you get one of I like the markings (1⁄8", 1⁄16", 1⁄32", and
Starrett’s high-quality bench rules with ⁄ ") on the rule because they’re
1 64

the bonus of a detachable hook. The identical to my 6" and 12" Starrett
hook catches on the end or edge of a combination squares, which I rely on
board—like a retractable tape, but with regularly. My eyes appreciate that
dead-on accuracy. You can center the consistency. Starrett’s hook rule,
sliding bar that acts as the hook, or however, features a matte finish; the
extend it entirely to either side. When combination squares are glossy. I also
you don’t want to use the hook, simply appreciate the heft of this rule—.042"
back out the screw and remove it. Just thick—that will keep it from bending. ¿
be careful to not lose that tiny screw and —Tested by Chuck Hedlund, Master Craftsman
hook. (The hook’s holder keeps the rule
from lying flat on its face, limiting the To learn more:
rule’s use while it’s attached.) 978-249-3551; starrett.com

24 WOOD magazine September 2007

 Router Clinic
Fast & Easy
Template Watch a FREE 5-minute video
on Template Routing at:
woodmagazine.com/videos

Routing
When you’re making multiples
of an irregular-shaped
workpiece, make quick work
of it with templates.

M
ost of us can crank out
consistently straight and
square project parts all day
long. It’s making duplicates of irregular
shapes, such as the oval cutouts in the
Photo-Frame Catchall Box on page 74,
that throw us a curve. That’s where a
template comes to the rescue. Follow
these guidelines to ramp up your
consistency.

Step 1: Make the template

We like to make templates from ¼" bearing-guided flush-trim (bearing Pattern bits, with the bearing between
hardboard or ½" medium-density below the cutters) bit or pattern the cutter and the shank, don’t need to
fiberboard (MDF). Both prove easy to (bearing above the cutters) bit in your trim the full workpiece thickness in
machine and offer greater stability than router or router table. The bearing on one pass. Rather, you can use a pattern
solid wood. Their only drawback: these bits rides along the template edge bit with a short cutterhead (and
Corners and detailed areas can lose while the cutters remove the remaining cheaper price tag) and make the cut in
their shape or get dinged if dropped or material from the workpiece, making its two or three passes.
bumped. If you want to make more- edges flush with the template, as shown For use in a router table, set the bit
durable templates, use Baltic birch A drawing
in the N below. height so the bearing rides in the
plywood. You’ll get great stability and To
B Obegin, choose your bit. Both types middle of the template’s thickness.
gap-free plys, but it can cost double or of bearing bits work well for handheld Insert a starter pin near the bit. (You
P
triple the price of MDF. andC table routing, and each has an don’t use the starter pin for inside
Lay out your design (to actual size) advantage.
D Q Flush-trim bits provide cutouts unless the opening offers
on the template material or adhere a better visibility when used in a router enough room that it won’t get in the
copy of the pattern, as with the lid of table R
E because the workpiece rides on way after you engage the bit.) Turn the
the catchall box from the pattern on the table
S with the template on top. continued on page 28
F
page 76. After drilling starter holes, use
a scrollsaw or jigsaw to cut away the Bearings
G T vs. bushings: One size does not fit all
waste to within 1 ⁄16" of the pattern
H U
lines. Sand the edges smooth and
remove the pattern. V Template Template
I
Template
J W
Step 2: Use the template to
X
duplicate workpieces K
Position the template on your work- Y Workpiece
Workpiece Workpiece Bushing
hing piece and trace the pattern with a L Bearing
Z Offset
pencil. Then cut it to within 1 ⁄16" of the
Offset M
line. Repeat for multiple workpieces. You can rout workpieces with the help of templates in one of two ways. A bearing-guided bit,
Mount the template to one of the at left, trims the workpiece flush with the template. A guide bushing, at right, rides along the
template edge and requires a template sized either larger (for inside cutouts) or smaller (for
workpieces with cloth-backed double- outside edges) than the workpiece. Although guide bushings work with lower-cost straight
faced tape. For the quickest, easiest way bits, we prefer the convenience of working with bearing-piloted bits and templates that
to trim your workpieces to shape use a match the workpiece in size and shape.

26 WOOD magazine September 2007

Router Clinic
dO the JOB QuiCKlY With easY-tO-use Bearing-guided Bits

Workpiece

Workpiece
Template Workpiece Pattern bit
Pattern bit
Starter
Starter pin Starter pin pin
Flush-trim bit

Template
Feed direction Template

Using a flush-trim bit on a router table With the bearing riding along the template Make two or three passes, raising the bit
allows you to better see the larger workpiece edge, steadily feed the workpiece into the bit height each time, if your pattern bit’s cutter
because the smaller template rides on top. to avoid burning. is shorter than your workpiece thickness.

router on, anchor the workpiece against inside cutouts. Once you’ve begun center and above right, or the router
the starter pin, and slowly ease it into cutting with the bit, pull your work- subbase. Work in the same manner
the bit until the bearing contacts the piece away from the starter pin. with these on your router table. With a
template. Rout in a right-to-left or A pattern bit works similarly to a handheld router you need to elevate
counterclockwise motion for edge flush-trim bit, except you flip the your workpiece, which will be on the
trimming, as shown above left; use a workpiece so the template rides against bottom, with blocks to avoid cutting
left-to-right or clockwise motion for the router table top, as shown above into your workbench. ¿

28 WOOD magazine September 2007

Finishing School

Faux Finishes
Dress up bargain materials with these distinctive looks.

Leather

Crackle

Pewter

Watch a FREE 5-minute video

on Faux Finishes at:
woodmagazine.com/videos.

H
ollywood filmmakers use fakery turn unglamorous materials, such as For all finishes and materials, first sand
to wow their audiences, often poplar or MDF, into eye-catching works to 220 grit. Before finishing MDF, apply
because it’s cheaper to make an of art. And because they require only a a coat of glue size as described below,
Old West facade than to build an actual few inexpensive ingredients, you don’t and sand again with 220 grit. Apply
town. That’s the same principle behind need Steven Spielberg’s production your choice of primer and sand once
these three finishing techniques that budget to get these looks: more at 220 grit for a smooth surface.
■ Crackle: This classic country look
uses two colors of paint and a special
transparent “crackle” coat between For smooth MDF,
them to mimic an old, sun-battered
surface. start with size
■ Pewter: Spray paint makes it easy to
Before you prime and paint MDF, you
create a pewter look for this crown need to seal its porous surface. First,
molding box from WOOD® magazine sand it to 220 grit, and then vacuum
issue 104 (March 1998). Download or blow away sanding dust. In a glass
plans for this box and others at or plastic container, stir seven parts
woodmagazine.com/cmbox. Other yellow glue into three parts water to
metallic finishes include aged create a glue size. Using a disposable
bronze, brass, and gold. foam brush, apply a generous coat of
■ Leather: Unlimited color combina- glue size to the faces, edges, and ends
tions let you adapt this finish to any of each MDF piece. Avoid nicking the
MDF surfaces while they’re moist, and
room decor.
allow the glue size at least two hours
We’ll show you how to create each to dry before sanding it smooth.
finish shown above. We found it easier
Tape off joint surfaces before you prime and to apply crackle and leather finishes to
paint project parts. parts before assembly, as shown at left. continued on page 34

32 WOOD magazine September 2007

Finishing School

Create crackle in a snap

show through the cracks. Dark colors
may need additional coats. Allow the
last layer to dry overnight. Use
brushes to fill in corners where
rollers can’t reach.
➌ Brush or roll on a coat of crackle, and
allow it to dry for at least two hours.
➍ Apply a single top coat using a mini
roller. The crackle effect begins
immediately as you apply the
Base coat over primer Top coat over crackle coat Wash coat
topcoat, so avoid going over previ-
ously painted areas and accidentally
With just a few minutes work, you’ll Step by step filling in the cracks. Allow it to dry
have a classic faux finish that resembles ➊ Start with the sides and ends of the overnight before handling.
decades of paint build-up. box assembled but not attached to ➎ To age the finish, mix 1 tablespoon
the base or top. This lets you paint of any medium-brown latex paint
Ingredients most of the project using a mini into 10 tablespoons of satin water-
We used Behr midnight dream (No. roller, which applies base coats more based finish, and mix thoroughly.
570F-7) base coat, and castle stone (No. evenly than a brush. Cut the hinge Brush on an even wash coat without
360E-2) top coat water-based paint mortises slightly wider than neces- overlapping the strokes. Remove any
(both $9.50 per quart), and Behr sary to accommodate the paint. drips or runs using a dry towel, but
Crackle ($14 per quart). All are available ➋ On the primed surface, brush or roll allow some of the wash coat to build
at The Home Depot, homedepot.com. on two coats of a base color that will up in grooves and corners.

Produce the look of aged pewter

Silver base coat Antiquing coat

final base coat to remove dust nibs

and dull the shiny silver surface for
the satin sheen of pewter.
➌ To dab on the antiquing color, you
can use the sponge brush that comes
with the kit. But we had better luck
using damp cotton rags to wipe on
Ingredients the antiquing color. This finish dries
The American Accents extremely fast, so limit yourself to
Antique Pewter finishing kit small areas at a time. For example,
($11; Rust-Oleum, 800-481-4785 or we antiqued the top of the box lid,
rustoleum.com) includes a silver shown at left in five parts.
metallic aerosol base coat, antique top ➍ Wipe off the excess. Using a clean,
coat, and applicator tools. You’ll also ➋ Spray on three coats of metallic silver damp soft cloth or paper towel,
need several dampened soft rags. finish. Lightly sand between coats quickly dab off the excess antiquing
using the kit’s abrasive pad. Unlike coat, leaving small, random patches
Step by step the other two finishes, which can on the flat surfaces and deposits in
➊ Spray on two coats of aerosol primer mask minor woodworking imperfec- the routed profiles. Antiquing takes
to avoid brush marks. (We used BIN tions, the spray metallic finish will effort to remove, so when in doubt,
Primer-Sealer, Zinsser, 732-469-8100 highlight them. Hold your workpiece apply and wipe off two light coats
or zinsser.com.) Sand the final coat up to an angled light and look for instead of one heavy coat.
smooth with 220-grit abrasive. shadows that signal flaws. Sand the continued on page 36

34 WOOD magazine September 2007

Finishing School

Apply a luxury leather look

Step by step
➊ Tape the joint surfaces of each piece
before priming and finishing. To
compensate for the small amount of
finish overlapping the joint surfaces,
cut dadoes and rabbets a hair wider.
➋ Use a mini roller to apply two layers
of base coat to the primed individual
pieces. Unlike most brushes, these
mini rollers leave an even surface for
the glaze coating. To snag any drips,
do the edges before painting the flat
surfaces. Allow the last base coat to
dry overnight before proceeding.
➌ Using a foam brush, apply glaze in
diagonal strokes. Immediately after
applying the glaze, cover it with a
piece of crinkled plastic shopping
bag. Press the plastic evenly atop the
Ingredients glaze, but not hard enough to
We used a base coat of Ralph Lauren squeeze it off the base coat. Remove
poplar island latex paint (NA23, $30 any bubbles, but leave any creases
per gallon, or substitute a Glidden and folds in the plastic.
Evermore satin base, $9 per quart) with ➍ Slowly lift the plastic off the surface,
Ralph Lauren natural khaki (AL02, and check the pattern for spots you
$10.50 per quart) water-based glaze. missed. Dab these with a section of
Find all at The Home Depot. Wad up the plastic still partially covered with
any plastic bags that hold a crease; then glaze. If you want a shade closer to
cut them into pieces large enough to the glaze color, repeat steps ➌ and ➍
cover the parts you’re finishing. after allowing the first glaze coat to
dry at least four hours.
➎ Allow the paint to dry thoroughly
before assembly. Tape or clamps can
lift off a freshly applied glaze coat,
even after it’s dry to the touch. Use
light clamping pressure, and cover
the clamp faces with painter’s tape to
keep them from sticking to the glaze.
➏ After assembly, apply a coat of
medium-brown wax or brown shoe
polish to introduce a second color,
help fill small gaps, and control the
surface sheen. After the wax or
polish starts to haze, buff it with a
Lift off the crinkled plastic shopping bag to soft cloth. ¿
reveal a random pattern resembling leather.

Base coat over primer Glaze coat Brown shoe polish

36 WOOD magazine September 2007

 Rockin’ Knockdown
see a slide show of this Heirloom
Cradle
project coming together at
woodmagazine.com/slides

Gently lull a newborn into sweet slumber with

this beautiful and cozy cradle.

38
 proJect highlights
 Overall dimensions: Cradle—31" long ×
241⁄2" wide × 211⁄4" high; storage box—
321⁄8" long × 175⁄8" wide × 43⁄4" high.
 Materials needed: Red oak (we used
riftsawn), red oak plywood, and a
small piece of walnut.
 Full-size patterns make it a snap to
shape the ends (A), sides (B), rockers
(E), and wedges (G), plus form the
mortises and tenons.
 The unique design of this virtually
glue-free project comes from Neil Keep a record of the
Lamens of Brookhaven, N.Y. His crib cradle’s previous
was a winner in the WOOD ® magazine occupants for future
Build-A-Gift Contest. (See issue 175, generations to cherish
March 2007.) with these engraved
brass plates.
Skill Builders (See sources.)
 Learn an easy way to form a stopped
groove using fillers. Paper placed
 Discover a simple technique for between parts
For traveling or storage, protect the cradle in this simple-to-make for protection
forming an angled wedge mortise. companion box.

Let’s start with highlight the end patterns glue the fillers into the ends
the ends and sides
1 From edge-joined 1⁄2"-thick stock,
cut two 17"-wide × 18"-long blanks
for the ends (A), and two 11"-wide × 31"-
C

long blanks for the sides (B). (To ensure

flat parts, we planed 3⁄4" stock to 1⁄2".) Set
the blanks for the sides aside.

2 Make four copies each of the full-

size half-patterns for the ends (A)
and full-size end and corner patterns for
123⁄4"

A
the sides (B) from the WOOD Patterns®
insert. Make two copies of the full-size
half-pattern for the rockers (E), and
eight copies of the pattern for the wedge alignment
(G). Set all of the patterns aside except C line
1⁄2" groove
for the half-patterns for the ends.

3
1⁄4" deep
Tape together two copies of the end A B
half-patterns for each end (A), join- To avoid confusion and mismachining, Glue and clamp two filler blanks (C) into
ing the patterns along the indicated highlight the shape of the end (A) on each the groove in each blank for the ends (A),
lines. Note that because the right- and pattern. Trim to within 1⁄2" of the outline. aligning the fillers with the marked lines.
left-side pattern halves are overlaid, it
does not matter which way you position thick to fit snugly into the grooves in tear-out. Then scrollsaw and drum-sand
the copies. Highlight the shape of each the end blanks. For the best appearance, to the pattern lines to complete the
part [ Drawing 1, next page] on the patterns, select stock that matches the grain pat- openings. (We used a 3⁄4"-diameter, 120-
and trim them [ Photo a]. Now spray- tern and color of the end blanks. Cross- grit sanding drum.)
adhere the patterns to the outside (best)
face of the end blanks, aligned with the
bottom edges and centered side-to-side.
cut four 2"-long blanks from the strip.
Now glue the blanks into the groove in
each end blank and aligned with the
8 Form the 1⁄ 2 ×11⁄ 2" through mortises
in the ends (A/C), where shown on
the patterns, to receive the tenons on the

4 Using your table-mounted router fit-

ted with a 1⁄2" straight bit, rout a 1⁄4"-
deep groove 1⁄2" from the bottom edge of
lines [ Photo B ], noting that you’ll have
some exposed groove at each end until
you bandsaw the end blanks to shape
sides (B) [ Drawing 1]. To do this, drill a
1⁄ 8" blade start hole through the waste

area of each mortise close to the pattern

each end blank on the inside face [ Draw- later. After the glue cures, sand the fill- lines. Then scrollsaw out the mortises
ing 1]. Then, to position the filler blanks ers flush with the end blanks. [ Photo C , next page]. Insert a corner of a
(C) to form 123⁄4"-long stopped grooves,
use a square to transfer lines from the 6 Bandsaw and sand the end blanks
(A/C) to shape, following the high-
side into each mortise to verify the cor-
rect mortise width.
locations for the inside ends of the fill-
ers, where shown on the patterns. Verify
that the lines are exactly 123⁄4" apart.
lighted pattern lines.

7 To form the curved hand openings,

bore 1" holes through the ends (A/
9 Rout 1⁄8" round-overs along the out-
side edges of the ends (A/C) and the
hand openings on both sides. Now

5 To form the filler blanks (C), cut a

1⁄2 ×12" piece from stock planed to 1⁄4"
C), where shown on the patterns, using
a Forstner bit and a backer to prevent
remove the patterns, and sand the ends
to 220 grit.

woodmagazine.com 39
 17fl"
1 exploded view

31"
A
#8 x 1‹" F.H. ¤" round-overs
wood screw along all edges
15‡" B
G 12‡"
fi"
fi" groove C
‹" deep
fi" from D
10fl" bottom edge
Countersunk
E F shank hole
28fi"
A

fi" fi" groove

¤" round-overs ◊ı" deep
B Á" from bottom
G edge and
F angled at 10°
Angled wedge fi x 1fi"
mortise ‹" wing nut through
1"
mortise
¤" round-overs 1" 2"
‹" lock washer
6"
‹" flat washer
ˇ" holes ‹" flat washer
E F
scrollsaw the end mortises
9"
¤" round-overs
B
¤" round-overs ‹ x 2" panhead
machine screw
1a side groove detail
1b wedge detail
A N
A
A
B O Inside face

C P fi" groove
◊ı" deep B ¤"
D Q angled at 10°
1 EXPLODED VIEW
1⁄8" blade fi" G
E R start hole
C S Á" 1‹"
F
Scrollsaw each mortise to shape, carefully
cutting along
T (and removing) the pattern
lines to ensure a good fit with the tenons.
◊ı"
H U
FILENAME:178Cradl1_#100504957.eps
V
Form I Date: 3-07
the tenons and Filename: 178Cradle 1
the blank end-for-end (pattern-side Reposition the fence and stopblock, and
Lorna J.
mortises in the sides
J W R LeMoine
down with the same edge against the make the 13⁄4"-deep outside shoulder cuts,
fence), and cut again. (This is a2-14-07
1 Spray-adhere
K
X the end patterns that
you Yset aside earlier to each end of
the 11×31"
L blanks for the sides (B) on the
blind again using the cut-and-flip technique.
cut, controlled by the fence and Without moving the fence, remove the
stopblock.) Repeat for the other blank. remaining waste from between the ten-
Z After completing the sides,
inside faces. Then reposition the fence as needed, ons to the shoulder pattern lines [ Photo
M
you’ll rip them to the finished width of and repeat the process to make the E ], making two cuts and flipping the
105⁄8", leaving the top tenons 13⁄8" from remaining cheek cuts in the blanks. blanks edge-for-edge.
the edges [ Drawing 2 ], and the bottom
tenons 13⁄4" from the edges. 3 To complete the tenons, remove the
fence, and bandsaw the waste from 4
To form the angled wedge mortise
in each tenon [ Drawing 2 ], drill a 3⁄8"

2 To form the tenons, bandsaw along

1a SIDE GROOVE DETAIL
the cheeks to the shoulders, cutting
to the pattern lines and leaving the lines.
between the tenons at each end of the hole through the tenons, where shown
blanks, cutting to approximately 1⁄4" on the patterns, using a brad-point bit
from the shoulder pattern lines. (Remov- and a backer to prevent tear-out. Next,
Use a fence and a stopblock to ensure ing most of the waste makes it easy to scrollsaw the mortises to shape, cutting
straight and identical 11⁄2"-deep cuts bandsaw straight along the lines during along
Filename: (and removing)
178Cradle 1 the pattern lines at
FILENAME:178Cradl1a_#100504958.eps
Date:[ Photo
3-07 D ]. After making the first cut, flip the final cuts, using the fence as a guide.) the sides and square end. Then, to angle
R LeMoine
Lorna J. 1b WEDGE DETAIL
40
2-14-07 WOOD magazine September 2007
 2‹" ⁄ "
27 32

Location of part E
127⁄32"
2 angled wedge mortise detail 3 parts view
D
28fi" Location of parts F
TOP VIEW BOTTOM 2‹" ⁄ "
27 32
12Ø" (Top face shown)
TOP VIEW
B Countersunk
Location shank
of parthole
E
A N
B 127⁄32"
›" hole Inside face 6ı"
B O filed at 4°
›" hole 4° Inside face D 3›"
P filed at 4° Location of parts F
C SIDE VIEW BOTTOM
4° 12Ø" (Top face shown)
D Q SIDE VIEW 1" 2fi"
Countersunk shank hole
A E NR
1›" 6ı"
B F OS 1„"
‡" 1›" 3›"
CG P T 1„" B
‡" SIDE
DH QU 1" 2fi"
(Inside Bface shown)
›" SIDE
E I RV (Inside face shown)
‡" ›" FULL-SIZE PATTERNS
S
FJ W
‡" ‰" round-overs 1‹"
GK T X Location of part A
Y Location of part A
HL U G G fi"
VZ WEDGE
IM
FULL-SIZE PATTERNS
J W ›"
X ‰" round-overs TOP VIEW SIDE VIEW
1‹"
K
Y
L G fi" G
Z
bandsaw perfect tenons using a stopblock and fence angleWEDGE
the wedge mortises
M
Tenon tight
against fence ›"
TOP VIEW SIDE VIEW
B Stopblock Support
block
2 ANGLED WEDGE MORTISE DETAIL
3 PARTS VIEW
ANGLED WEDGE MORTISE
11⁄2" DETAIL File 4˚ angle
to this line
1⁄4" waste B
FILENAME:178Cradl3_#100504961.eps
remaining
Date: 3-07 after initial cuts Angled
Lorna J. guide
ME:178Cradl2_#100504960.eps
07 3 PARTSFilename:
VIEW 178Cradle 5 Filename: 178Cradle 2
E:178Cradl2_#100504960.eps R LeMoine
Filename:
B
D E 2-14-07 178Cradle 5 F R LeMoine
Using a stopblock, bandsaw 11⁄2"-deep cuts R LeMoine
To make the final cuts along the shoulder 2-14-07
Holding a 3⁄8" rat-tail file centered against the
Date: 3-07
2-14-07
FILENAME:178Cradl3_#100504961.eps
to the pattern lines (leaving the lines) to form between the tenons, press the blank against 4° angled end on a guide, taper the round
the tenon cheeks in the sides (B).
Lorna J. the fence to ease the blade into the waste. end of each mortise in the sides (B).

Filename: 178Cradle 2
each mortise at the round end, miter-cut
one end of a 3⁄4 ×2×6" scrap at 4° for a
guide. Clamp the guide, centered and
7 Remove the end patterns from the
sides. Then spray-adhere the corner
patterns in position, aligned with the top
R LeMoine
routed round-overs. Then ease the sharp
2-14-07
edges along the cheeks of the tenons by
hand-sanding. Remove the corner pat-
aligned with the remaining pattern line edges and shoulders (not ends) of the terns, and sand the sides smooth.
at the round end of the mortise, to a tenons. (You’ll need to flip the patterns
support block [ Photo F]. Using a 3⁄8" rat- over at the right ends.) Draw lines to Move on to the bottom,
tail file and the guide, as shown, taper connect the patterns. Now bandsaw and rockers, and brackets
the hole to the pattern line with a couple
of light strokes.
sand the sides to shape, saving the cut-
offs for use as spacers for the rockers (E) 1 Cut the plywood bottom (D) to the
size listed [ Materials List, page 44].

5 Using a dado blade in your tablesaw,

cut a 1⁄2" groove 11⁄32" deep 7⁄16" from
the bottom edge and angled at 10° in
during assembly.

8 Rout 1⁄8" round-overs along the top

and bottom edges of the sides and
Mark centerpoints for countersunk
shank holes on the top face of the bot-
tom for attaching the rocker brackets (F)
each side (B) on the inside face [ Drawings long edges at the ends of the tenons [ Drawing 3 ]. Drill the holes. (For the #8
1 and 1a] to receive the bottom (D). [ Drawing 1]. Using a 150-grit sanding screws in this project, drill countersunk

6 Rip 3⁄8" from the top edges of the sides block, round over the short edges at the 5⁄ 32" shank holes and 7⁄64" pilot holes.)

(B) for a finished width of 105 ⁄8". ends of the tenons to blend with the Sand the bottom.

woodmagazine.com 41
 drill the rocker holes sand the wedge to shape, and fit and mark it

A
F
Mark the wedge
blank 1⁄8" from the
end of part A / C .

rockers E adhered with

G double-faced tape H I
Using your drill-press fence for support and Taper the end of the blank for the wedges With the tapered end of the wedge blank
the holes in the rocker bracket (F) as guides, (G) to the angled wedge pattern line using a tight in an angled mortise, mark the blank 1⁄8"
drill 5⁄16" holes through the rockers (E). 120-grit disc sander. from the end of the end (A/C).

2 From 1⁄2"-thick stock, cut two 61⁄4 ×25"

blanks for the rockers (E). To form
identical rockers, adhere the blanks
bottom and aligned with each other.
Clamp the remaining cutoff and brackets
into position at the other end of the bot-
mortises to achieve the desired fit. Don’t
worry if any tenons are slightly loose in
the mortises. The wedges (G) will hold
together with double-faced tape. Spray- tom in the same way. Turn the assembly the assembly securely together.
adhere the rocker half-patterns to one
face of the joined blanks, flipping over
the pattern half for the right side and
over. Then, using the shank holes in the
bottom as guides, drill pilot holes into
the brackets. Drive the screws. Remove
2 To form the wedges, prepare a
3⁄8 ×11⁄2 ×16" blank from a contrasting

wood. (We used walnut.) Rout 3⁄16"

joining the patterns where shown. the clamps and spacers. round-overs along one edge of the blank
Bandsaw and sand the rockers to shape.
Do not remove the patterns. 7 Slide the rockers (E) into position
between the rocker brackets (F),
[ Drawing 3]. Rip the blank to 1⁄2" wide.

3 Spray-adhere a wedge pattern to an

3 Also from 1⁄2" stock, cut the rocker

brackets (F) to size. Mark a center-
point for a 5⁄16" hole at one end of a
with the 5⁄16" holes in the parts aligned.
Secure the rockers with the panhead
machine screws, flat washers, lock wash-
end of the blank. Sand to the angled
pattern line to shape the wedge [ Photo
H ]. Remove the pattern. Then, with the
bracket [ Drawing 1]. Using a fence and ers, and wing nuts [ Drawing 1]. angled edge of the blank against an end
stopblock on your drill press, drill the (A/C), slide the blank tightly into an
hole at the centerpoint with a brad-point Craft the wedges to fit angled mortise in a tenon. Mark the
bit. Then flip the bracket end-for-end and into the angled mortises blank 1⁄ 8" from the end of the end (A/C)
drill again. Repeat for the other brackets.

4 To drill matching 5⁄16" holes through

the rockers (E), adhere a rocker
1 Assemble the ends (A/C), sides (B),
and bottom/rocker assembly (D/E/
F) together, with the bottom captured in
[ Drawing 1b, Photo i ]. If the blank does
not extend far enough to mark it, sand
the angled edge as needed to increase
bracket (F) to the pattern on the rockers the stopped grooves in the ends and the extension. Remove the blank. Using
with double-faced tape, positioning the angled grooves in the sides. The tenons your tablesaw with an extension on the
bracket where shown. Drill the holes on the sides should slide easily through miter gauge, crosscut a 11⁄4"-long wedge
through the rockers [ Photo g ]. Remove the mortises in the ends. If needed, use from the blank. Repeat the process to
the bracket, separate the rockers, and a flat file to remove material from the make seven more wedges. Sand smooth.
remove the tape and patterns.

5 Rout 1⁄8" round-overs along the

curved edges of the rockers (E)
[ Drawing 1]. Sand the parts smooth.
SHOP TIP
A simple way to shim parts 1⁄2"
spacer
(cutoff from

6 To mount the rocker brackets (F) to

the bottom (D) [ Drawings 1 and 3],
position the bottom on your workbench
for easy disassembly
To make sure that tight-fitting parts,
such as the rockers (E) between the
D part B )

with the bottom face up and one end rocker brackets (F), remove easily when F
overhanging the benchtop approxi- disassembling a project, use masking
tape for a shim to provide a small
mately 4". On this end, clamp one of the
1⁄2"-thick cutoffs from the sides (B) on
clearance between the parts during
assembly. For example, when mounting
edge to the bottom, centering the cutoff the rocker brackets to the cradle
between the six mounting holes. To bottom (D), apply a piece of tape to
ensure easy removal of the rockers (E) each face of the 1⁄2" spacer (used in
from between the brackets whenever place of the rocker for clamping ease),
you knock down the cradle, see the shop and then clamp the brackets to the
tip, right. spacer. The two pieces of tape provide .010"—just enough so that the rockers
Next, clamp two rocker brackets to a total clearance of approximately are not loose but will slide out easily.
the spacer, centered end to end on the

42 WOOD magazine September 2007

 A N
fl x 1‡" decorative
brass corner 17¤"
B O 4a FillEr DEtail
31fl"
C P J
D Q fi" J

E R
K
1ˇ x 2‹" decorative
S
brass hingeF mounted
3" from fi" rabbets
G end
T ‹" deep
Cut here to
#4 x fi" separate
brass F.H. box after H
wood screw H U
assembly.
V H I
I K I

‹" dado J W J 1‹"

‹" deep
‹" from end X
K
Y
4‡" L K K
Z
M 6"

32¤" 4‡" brass pull

I
17¤" H #8 x fl" brass F.H. wood screw
A N
‹" rabbet ‹" deep
B O #4 x fi" brass F.H. wood screw
Brass draw catch
P 4 storagE Box
C
4a FILLER DETAIL
D Q

E R Wrap things up with a 5 CUtting tHE Box CornEr Joint

S baby-smooth finish Step 1 Auxiliary Fence

1
F Step 2
Disassemble the cradle and remove Cut ‹" dadoes fence Cut a ‹" rabbet
G T the rockers (E). Finish-sand to 220 ‹" deep in both ‹" deep in both
ends of parts H. ends of parts I .
H U
grit any areas that need it, and remove FILENAME:178Cradl4a_#100504963.eps Filename
Date: 3-07
the dust. ‹" R LeMoin
2
V Lorna J.
I Apply a stain and clear finish. (We Outside face Inside face 2-14-07
applied Varathane no. 218 Tradi-
J W
tional Pecan Stain followed by three H ‹" I ‹"
X coats of AquaZar Water-Based Clear
K
Y 4 STORAGE sanding
Satin Polyurethane, BOX to 320 grit
L Zero-
between coats.) Finally, add a mattress clearance ‹" dado ‹" dado
Z blade blade
M (see sources), linens, and blankie. Then insert
introduce a newborn to a comfy home.
FILENAME:178Cradl4_#100504962.eps Filename: 178cradle case1
Date: 3-07
R LeMoine
Lorna J.
2-14-07 Make the optional
SHOP TIP storage box
Use stabilizer blocks to
safely separate a box
stabilizer block
adhered with
double-faced tape
1 Cut the front/back (H), sides (I),
and plywood top/bottom (J) to the
sizes listed. Using a dado blade in your
When ripping a box, such as the cradle tablesaw, cut the dadoes in the front/
storage box, to separate the top and back and rabbets in the sides [ Drawings
bottom, you need to prevent the parts 4 and 5 ]. Then cut a 1 ⁄ 2" rabbet 1 ⁄4" deep
from moving and pinching 5 CUTTING
the blade THE BOX CORNER JOINTS
along the top and bottom edges of the
when you make the final two cuts.
Here’s an easy way to do it. After 1 1⁄4" front/back and sides on the inside faces
ripping the sides (or ends) of the box, to receive the top/bottom.
Filename: the178cradle
front/back, case1
2
FILENAME:178Cradl5_#100504964.eps
adhere suitably sized stabilizer blocks
Date: 3-07 Dry-assemble sides,
from 1⁄2" scrap to the sides withJ.double-
Lorna R LeMoine
and top/bottom together, and check
faced tape, as shown, to hold the top
auxiliary fence
for correct2-14-07
fit. Then glue and clamp the
and bottom in position and the kerfs parts together.
open. Then rip the front and back to
detach the top. To prevent interference the sides (41⁄2"-wide blocks for the cradle
between the blocks and fence, make storage box), and center the blocks on
3 To fill in the exposed rabbets at the
ends of the front/back (H), cut a
1⁄4 ×1⁄2 ×12" blank for the fillers (K). Cross-
the blocks 1⁄4" shorter than the width of the sides.
cut eight 1"-long fillers from the blank.

woodmagazine.com 43
 SHOP TIP
How to prevent a hinge- Materials List
finished siZe
bound top Heirloom cradle t w l matl. Qty.
Ever hinge-mounted a top to a box and A* ends 1⁄2" 153⁄4" 175⁄8" EO 2
discovered that the top did not close B* sides 1⁄2" 105⁄8" 31" EO 2
flush? This can happen if you don’t
allow a tiny bit of space between the C filler blanks 1⁄4" 1⁄2" 2" O 4
box and lid at the back when mounting D bottom 1⁄2" 1211⁄16" 281⁄2" OP 1
the hinges. To easily create the needed E* rockers 1⁄2" 6" 241⁄2" O 2
clearance, insert business cards, which F rocker brackets 1⁄2" 2" 9" O 4
measure approximately .015" thick,
between the top and bottom, clamp G* wedges 3⁄8" 1⁄2" 11⁄4" W 8
the parts together, and then mount Storage box (optional)
the hinges. H front/back 1⁄2" 43⁄4" 321⁄8" O 2
I sides 1⁄2" 43⁄4" 171⁄8" O 2

Then glue a filler into each opening J top/bottom 1⁄2" 171⁄8" 315⁄8" OP 2
glue the fillers into the boX
[ Photo J ]. After the glue cures, flush-trim K* fillers 1⁄4" 1⁄4" 1⁄2" O 8
the fillers with a fine-tooth saw and *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
sand smooth.

4 To rip the box and separate the 11⁄4"- Materials key: EO–edge-joined red oak, O–red oak,
OP–red oak plywood, W–walnut.
thick top from the bottom [ Drawing
Supplies: Spray adhesive, double-faced tape, #8×11⁄4"
4 ], attach a 12"-tall auxiliary fence to flathead wood screws (12), 1⁄4 ×2" panhead machine
your rip fence with double-faced tape. screws (4), 1⁄4" flat washers (8), 1⁄4" lock washers (4), and
1⁄4" wing nuts (4). For the optional storage box: 15⁄16 ×21⁄4"
Raise the blade to 5⁄8". Position the box
with a side (I) down and top (J) tight decorative brass hinges (3), #4×1⁄2" brass flathead wood
1"-long filler K
I screws (30), brass draw catches (2), 5⁄8 ×13⁄4" decorative
against the fence. Rip the side. Then brass corners (8), 43⁄4" brass pull, #8×5⁄8" brass flathead
rotate the box end-for-end and rip the H wood screws (2).
other side. To safely rip the front/back Blade and bits: 1⁄2" straight and 1⁄8" and 3⁄16" round-
(H) to separate the top without pinching over router bits, 1" Forstner bit, 3⁄8" and 5⁄16" brad-point
bits, dado-blade set.
the blade, see the shop tip, previous page.
J
Sand the top and bottom smooth.
Sources
5
Glue a 1"-long filler (K) into each exposed
To hinge the top and bottom, align rabbet at the ends of the front/back (H). After Engraved plate: 21⁄4 ×31⁄2" laser-engraved, adhesive-
the grain and clamp the parts the glue cures, trim and sand the fillers flush. backed gold-colored
*A plate, no.
*AENGOLD, $7.88 plus *B
together with spacers, as explained in shipping and handling. Includes up to 40 engraved letters
the shop tip, above. Draw centerlines for ‡ x 7‹
at no additional x 96"
charge. CallRed oak
or click (5.3Awards;
Crown bd. ft.) (2 needed)
* A crownawards.com.
800-227-1557, *A **BC
mounting the 15⁄16 ×21⁄4" decorative brass Apply the same *A stain and
*A finish to the *
* B Mattress: Custom-sized 8×22"Ehigh-density, vinyl-
hinges [ Drawing 4 ] on the back (H). With box as for the cradle. covered ‡ *xA7‹
foam x 96"
mattress Red
with * Aoak (not
straight (5.3rounded)
bd. ft.)
* B(2 needed)

7
the hinges centered on the marked ‡ x 7‹ x 96" Red oakand
(5.3 bd. ft.) (2 needed)
A lines
N Remount the hinges draw
*C
corners, no. A002112, $40.00 plus shipping. Call or
‡ 877-552-2229,
x 7‹ x 96" Red oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
* Kababy.com.
* Cclick
and top/bottom joint, drill the mount- catches. Then screw-mount the ABaby.com;
*Plane or resaw* to the thicknesses
ing holes and drive the screws. (We B used
O 5⁄8 ×13⁄4" decorative brass corners [ Drawing *A A * B listed in the Mate
*A *A *B *I
Ascrews
N *F * *F *F
A N #4× 1⁄ 2" brass flathead wood 4 ], using the supplied screws. Now ‡ x 7‹ x 96" Red oak (5.3 bd. ft.) F
C P ‡ x3 7‹ x 96" Red oak (5.3 bd. ft.) *
*Plane B or resaw to the thicknesses * H listed in the Mater
instead of the #4× 5⁄8" screws supplied mount the*Plane 4 ⁄4" brass pull, centered, to listed in the
B O with the hinges so that the screws
B O
D didQ
or resaw to the thicknesses
the front (H) using #8× 5⁄8" brass flathead Cutting Diagram
Materials List.
*
7‹ x 96" Red oak (5.3Fbd. ft.)* F *F *F
P * * * F ‡ x* F
P not go through the 1⁄ 2"-thick back.)
C wood screws (not the 3⁄4"-long F screws F *B *H *G *

6
C E R * *I
Screw-mount the brass draw D catches
Q supplied withBthe pull). ¿ *H *H
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Red oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
D Q to the front (H), where dimensioned, S ‡ x 7‹ x 96" Red oak (5.3 bd. ft.) ‡ x 5fi x 24" Red oak (1 bd. ft.) ‡ x 1fi
F *G *G
again using #4×1⁄2" brass flatheadE wood R Written by Owen Duvall with Chuck Hedlund *G I * G
E R G T Project design: *Neil
I Lamens, Brookhaven, NY,
screws instead of the supplied screws. S ‡‡x x5fi ‡ x 1fi
S Then, remove the hinges and catches. F with Kevin Boyle
‡ x 5fi x 24" Red oak (1 bd. ft.) J1fix x24"
24"Red
Walnutoak (.3
(1 bd.
bd. ft.)
ft.)
F H U Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
G T
G T V
I J
H U J
H U J W
*A *AV *B *E
V I X J
I K
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Red
J oakWY (5.3 bd. ft.) (2 needed)
J W *C *K
L X J
X K* Z J
K *A MA Y *B *I
Y L
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Red oak (5.3 bd. ft.) D
L Z
Z *Plane or resaw
M to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List.
M *F *F *F *F
*B D fi xD48 x 48" Red oak plywood
*H *H
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Red oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
fi x 48 x 48" Red oak plywood
*I fi x 48 x* 48"
G * Red
G oak plywood
44 ‡ x 5fi x 24" Red oak (1 bd. ft.) ‡ x 1fi x 24" Walnut (.3 bd. ft.) WOOD magazine September 2007

Cutting Diagram for Cradle and Storage Box

 Space-Saving Double-Duty
Tablesaw Workbench Attention, small-shop and garage
shop woodworkers: Here’s a project
designed with you in mind. It’s a
combination workbench and outfeed
table. Plus, for the space-starved
shop, it stores in the same footprint
as your tablesaw.

Watch a FREE two-minute video of the

Tablesaw Workbench in action at:
woodmagazine.com/videos

Use it as
an outfeed PROjECT HIgHLIgHTS
table ...  Overall dimensions: 611⁄2" wide ×
321⁄8" deep × 393⁄16" high (casters in
the down position).
 You can customize the workbench to
fit any type of tablesaw. The work-
bench shown at left fits a contractor’s
model with a 30" fence.
 Levelers let you adjust the bench to
match your tablesaw height for use as
an outfeed table.
 To renew the worksurface, simply flip
or replace the 3⁄4" plywood top panel.
 For the items needed to build this
project, see page 47 You’ll find the
Supplies at hardware stores and home
centers. For the casters, see Source.
Skill Builder
 Learn how to form large dadoes and
rabbets using your tablesaw fence as a
workpiece stop.

Note: To position the workbench over your

tablesaw, remove the blade guard, rip fence,
and miter gauge. The bench dimensions
allow 1" clearance at the top of the tablesaw
and 1" clearance at each side. There is no
front-to-back clearance: With the workbench
positioned over the tablesaw, the back fence
... or an rail touches the inside of the upper back rail
assembly (F) [Drawing 4], and the back of the front
fence rail rests against the front legs (C).
bench
46 WOOD magazine September 2007
 1
Measure your tablesaw
No matter the type of tablesaw you own, or how
it’s accessorized, you can customize this project Width
to fit your needs. Length (52")
A N

1
(29‹") [ ]
Measure your tablesaw [ Drawing 1], and enter [ ]
B theO dimensions in the empty brackets. (Our
sample tablesaw dimensions are shown in paren-
C P
thesis.) If by chance your saw dimensions match
D Q of the sample tablesaw, stop here. Simply Length: Measure from the back
those of the front fence rail to the
use the part dimensions for the sample tablesaw back edge of the back Height
E R fence rail. (35‡")
shown on the Materials List at right bottom.

2
S [ ]
F For dimensions in brackets larger or smaller Height: Measure from the
than the ones in parenthesis [ Drawing 1], floor to the top of the
G T saw table.
here’s how to size the workbench to your tablesaw.
(Don’t
H U let the following lengthy explanation Width: Measure the maximum
scareVyou off. The process is really quite simple.) dimension, including the saw
I table, wings, extensions,
■ Subtract the smaller length dimension from the and back fence rail.
J W one. Enter the difference in the L column
larger
under X the CALCULATE heading on the Materials Note: Our tablesaw dimensions are shown in parenthesis.
K for parts A, D, E, H, J, and K, and in the W
List
Y
column
L for part N, preceded by a plus symbol (+) Step 1
for aZ length in brackets larger than the one in example: 301⁄2"–291⁄4"=11⁄4"
M
parenthesis, and a minus symbol (-) for a length
in brackets smaller than the one in parenthesis. Materials List
FINISHED SIZE: SAMPLE TABLESAW CALCULATE YOUR TABLESAW
■ Subtract the smaller height dimension from the Base T W L W L W L Matl. Qty.
larger one. Enter the difference in the L column A pivot blocks 1½" 3" 23¾" +11⁄4" 25" M 2
under the CALCULATE heading for part C, and in
the W column for part E, preceded by a plus sym- Step 4 1 MEASURE Step 2 YOUR TABLESAW Step 3
bol for a height in brackets larger than the one in Cross out The length in 233⁄4"+11⁄4"=25"
parenthesis, and a minus symbol for a height in the obsolete brackets is larger
brackets smaller than the one in parenthesis. dimension. than the length in
parenthesis.
■ Subtract the smaller width dimension from the
larger one. Enter the difference in the L column
under the CALCULATE heading for parts F, G, I, Materials List
and N, preceded by a plus symbol for a width in FINISHED SIZE: SAMPLE TABLESAW CALCULATE YOUR TABLESAW
brackets larger than the one in parenthesis, and a Base T W L W L W L Matl. Qty.
minus symbol for a width in brackets smaller A pivot
FILENAME:178TblswEx1_#100504833.eps blocks 1½" 3" 23¾" LM 2
than the one in parenthesis. Date: 2-07 B levers ¾" 7⁄8" 27½"
Filename: M
178tablesaw
2
Lorna J.
■ Divide the width dimension difference deter- C* legs 3" 3" 34½"
R LeMoine LP 4
mined in the previous step by four. Record the D end rails 1½" 3" 29 ⁄4"
1
2-9-07 P 4
dividend in the L column under the CALCULATE E end panels ¾" 23" 24" BP 2
heading for parts L and M, preceded by a plus or
F back rails ¾" 8" 60" BP 2
minus symbol, as directed above.
■ For a width dimension in brackets smaller than G rail stiffener ¾" 1½" 54" M 1

the one in parenthesis, divide the dimension dif- Top

ference by two. Enter the dividend in the L col- H end trim ¾" 2½" 30" M 2
umn under the CALCULATE heading for part B, I front/ back trim ¾" 2 1⁄2" 61½" M 2
preceded by a minus symbol. (Do not make part J top supports ¾" 1¾" 291⁄4" M 3
B longer than the length listed for the sample K end cleats ¾" 1¾" 24" M 2
tablesaw.)
L outer cleats ¾" 1¾" 117⁄16" M 2
■ Now add the numbers in the W and L columns
under the CALCULATE heading to, or subtract M inner cleats ¾" 1¾" 147⁄16" M 2

them from, the W and L dimensions under the N top panel ¾" 30" 60" BP 1
SAMPLE TABLESAW heading. Enter the new *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
dimensions in the W and L columns under the
Materials key: LM–laminated maple, M–maple, LP–laminated pine, P–pine,
YOUR TABLESAW heading. Then, to avoid confu-
BP–birch plywood.
sion, cross out the obsolete SAMPLE TABLESAW Supplies: #8×1¼", #8×1½", #8×2", #8×2½" flathead wood screws; 3⁄8" levelers with T-nuts
dimensions. (4); 1⁄4×11⁄2" hexhead bolts (6); 1⁄4×2" hexhead bolts (24); 1⁄4" washers (52); 1⁄4" lock nuts
Now, for example, let’s say your tablesaw mea- (32);1⁄4×2" eyebolts (2); 7⁄8" washers (6); 1⁄8×3⁄4×36" steel bar; 1⁄2×36" schedule 40 steel pipe (2).
sures 30 ⁄2" long, and you’ve entered this number
1 Blades and bits: Stack dado set; 1⁄4" round-over and 45° chamfer router bits.
on Drawing 1 in the brackets under Length. In this Source
case, complete the row in the Materials List as shown Casters. 4” swivel caster with brake no. 36992, $9.99 ea. (4). Call Hartville Tool, 800-345-2396, or go to
[Example, right center]. hartvilletool.com.

woodmagazine.com 47
 Drill the pivot blocks and cut the pipes to length

Washers
Bolt hole

A
¼" drill bit
Masking Spacer
A tape
¼" bolt
inserted to A and B
keep the pipe aligned
from shifting horizontally
Cutoff mark

3¹⁄₈"

B
A B
With 31⁄8" of pipe protruding from one end of the pivot block (A), drill With washers, a spacer, and the lever assembly in place, mark the pipe
holes through the block and pipe at the marked hole centers. length and lever attachment bolt-hole location.

Build the pivot assemblies

N 1 For the pivot blocks (A), cut four 3⁄4"-

thick pieces of stock to the width
and length listed. (We used maple. If
3"
‹ x 2"
hexhead bolt
‹" washer
2 pivot assembly
23‡"
O you’ve adjusted the length of part A, be fi"
‹" hole ‹ x 1fi" hexhead bolt
sure to use the new length.) Then, mak- schedule A
P 40 steel ¤ x ‡ x 9" steel bar
ing two passes with a dado blade, cut pipe
Q centered grooves in each piece [ Draw- 31¤" long ‹" hole, centered
ings 2 and 2a]. Clamp the pieces together *Œ" grooves
R Á" deep, 3" Œ"
in the arrangement shown, and verify centered fi" 3fi"
S that 1⁄2" schedule 40 steel pipe slips B
through the square hole. Now glue and 27fi" 1"
T ‡"
clamp the pieces, keeping the ends and ‹" washer ‹" hole
U edges flush. 9fi"

2
‹" lock nut
Lay out the hole centers on the bot- A
V ‹" stopped round-overs
tom face of each pivot block (A) Œ" washers
W [ Drawing 2a]. (Use the caster plates to 1"
X locate the caster-mounting holes.) Drill ‹" hole
only the caster-mounting holes. 4" double-locking swivel caster ‹" lock nut

3
Y
N Cut two levers (B) to size. Rout
Z stopped round-overs along the edges
O [ Drawing 2 ]. Then, from a 1⁄8 × 3⁄4 ×36" steel
*Sized to accept fi" schedule 40 pipe 2a pivot block
P bar, cut four 9"-long pieces. Drill holes
where shown. Now position a bar on 23‡"
‡" *Œ" groove Á" deep, ‡"
Q each lever with the bar protruding 1" 6‹" 6‹"
centered on inside face
beyond the end of the lever. Using the
R holes in the bar as guides, mark hole 1fi"
3"
S positions on each lever. Also mark the A
hole center at the opposite end of each
T lever. Drill the holes on your drill press. Use the holes in a caster plate ‹" hole 4‹"
to locate the mounting holes.
Bolt the bars to the levers. 2 PIVOT ASSEMBLY

4
U
Slide a 36"-long piece of 1⁄2" schedule
V

W
40 steel pipe into each pivot block
(A), letting the pipe protrude 31⁄8" at one 5 To cut the pipes to finished length, pipe, and with the lever (B) and pivot
first cut a 3"-long spacer from 2×4 block aligned horizontally, mark the fin-
end. Then drill the four 1⁄4" holes that go scrap. [The spacer represents the thick- ished length and the bolt-hole location
X block and pipe, ness of a leg (C).] Drill a centered 7 ⁄8" hole [Photo BFilename:
through both the pivotFILENAME:178TblswEx2_#100504834.eps ]. Repeat with the other assembly.EXtable1
Date: 2-07 A]. To
178tablesaw
where previously marked [ Photo through the 3" dimension. Then slide two Now mark the pipes and pivot blocks for
Y Lorna J. R LeMoine
keep the pipe from shifting in the pivot washers and the spacer onto the long reassembly, remove the pipes, and cut
Z 2-9-07
block, insert bolts into the holes as you protruding pipe end of one pivot block them to length. Using a V-block on your
drill them. (A) assembly. Apply masking tape to the drill press, drill the bolt holes.

48 WOOD magazine September 2007

 3 eND assembly 3a leveleR Detail
(back leg shown)
3"
3"
‡"
3" dado #8 x 1fi" F.H.
5" 1fi" deep wood screw
A N
2‹"
3" ‡"
#8 x 2fi" F.H. B O
wood screw P
C C
Á" hole
D Q 1fi" deep 8"
34fi"
R C 8"
E 24" ‡"
S
Countersunk F 1‡"
shank hole D 3" dado
G T 1fi" deep 8" rabbet ‡"
23" ‡" deep
H U
Œ" hole,
E ›" T-nut centered
V C
I
› x 1fi"
J W BACK LEG leveler
5"
3" 1fi" X
K Œ" washer
Y A
L ‡"
Z 8" rabbet
M ‡" deep
B
D Œ" washer
29‹"

Œ" washer

›" leveler

3a LEVELER DETAIL (Back leg shown)

Assemble the ends
1 For the legs (C), cut eight 2×4
pieces 1⁄2" longer than listed. Lami-
and adjust it to cut 11⁄2" deep. To estab- four legs. Now make repeat cuts to
lish one edge of the dadoes, position the remove the waste.
nate them in pairs to form four 3×31⁄2"
blanks. Then joint one edge smooth, rip
3 END ASSEMBLY
fence 5" from the right side of the blade,
and attach an extension to the miter 3
To form the 8"-wide rabbets at the
top and bottom of the back legs (C)
the opposite edge to width, and crosscut gauge to back the cuts. Then, using the [ Drawings 3 and 3a], leave the tablesaw Filename:
the legs to length. To avoid problems FILENAME:178TblswEx3a_#100504837.eps
fence as a stop, cut a dado at both ends set up as in the previous step, but lower
Date: R LeMoine
when building projects from construc- on the inside face2-07
of each leg. Next, to the blade to cut 3⁄4" deep. Then, making
Lorna J. 2-9-07
tion lumber, see the Shop Tip, below. establish the other edge of the dadoes, sure you will have mirror-image parts,

2
Date: 2-07
To form 3"-wide dadoes in the inside
FILENAME:178TblswEx3_#100504836.eps
faces of the legs (C) [ Drawing 3],
Lorna J. install a 3⁄4" dado blade in your tablesaw,
reposition theFilename:
fence 8" from 178tablesaw
R LeMoine
the left side cutEXtable2
a dado at both ends of the back face
of the blade. Again using the fence as a of the back legs. Now make repeat cuts
2-9-07
stop, cut a second dado at each end of all to remove the waste from the dadoes to
the ends of the legs.
SHOP TIP
How to keep construction
4
Drill a 7⁄8" hole for the pivot assembly
pipes at the bottom of each leg
[ Drawing 3a]. Then drill a hole for the
lumber straight leveler T-nut.
Construction lumber (2×4s, 2×6s,
etc.) has a high moisture content.
When brought into a shop, the lum-
5
Cut the end rails (D) to size. Glue
and clamp them into the leg (C)
dadoes with the rail ends flush with the
ber dries out, causing it to shrink and front surface of the front legs and the
often twist. Of course, your project rabbeted surface of the back legs [ Draw-
will go together easier with straight ing 3]. Check the assemblies for square.
lumber. Here‘s a simple solution. Then drill holes, and drive the screws.
First, select lumber that does not (For #8 screws in softwood, drill 5⁄32"
include the center (pith) of the tree. shank holes and 3⁄32" pilot holes.)
Cut the parts to rough length as soon
as you bring the lumber home. Then
place the parts in a trash bag, as
and return them to the bag until you
are ready to assemble them. After
building the project, the wood dries,
6
Cut the end panels (E) to size. Glue
and clamp the panels to the end
rails (D) with the top of each panel flush
shown at right, and close it with a twist but now twisting of any one part is with the top of the upper rail. Drill screw
tie. Remove the parts for machining, restrained by the other parts. holes, and drive the screws.

woodmagazine.com 49
 4 base
C ‡"

E
Countersunk
D shank hole 60" 8"

C E

F
C
1fi"
#8 x 2fi" F.H.
wood screw
D
‹" hole 1" deep,
A drilled after assembly 8"
F
54"
‹" holes
Complete the base 3" G

1 Cut the back rails (F) to size. Drill 7⁄8" B

holes for the pipe in the lower rail Œ" hole ‡" ‹" lock nut
[ Drawing 4 ]. Join the end assemblies (C/
Position of B
D/E) with the back rails (F), and glue B 60" with the
and screw the rails in place [Drawing 4 1‡"
casters down
and Photo C]. ‹" washers
Note: Locate the screw holes in the back ‹ x 2" eyebolts
rails (F) so they don’t interfere with the 1fi"
screws that fasten the end rails (D) to the Position of B with the casters up
legs (C). To avoid interfering with the leg #8 x 1fi" F.H.
#8 x 2fi" F.H. wood screw
levelers, use a 1½"-long screw at the lower wood screw
outside corners of the bottom back rail.

2 Apply a finish to the pivot blocks (A)

and levers (B). (For an easy-to-apply
and easy-to-repair finish, we applied
the pipe holes, and bolt the pipes in
place [ Drawing 2 ]. Now slip a washer and
a lever (B) assembly onto each pipe, and
tape to the upper back rail at the loca-
tions of the lever ends when the casters
are in the up position. Mark lines on the
two coats of Minwax Antique Oil Fin- bolt the levers in place [ Drawing 4 ]. tape 11⁄2" from the ends of the rail. Rotate
ish.) Attach the casters to the pivot
blocks [ Drawing 2 ]. 4 Adhere masking tape to the lower
back rail (F) at the location of the
the levers so the casters are in the up
position, and drill 1"-deep holes through

3 Place the base upside down on the

floor, and slide the pipes through
the legs (C), washers, pivot block (A)
lever (B) ends when the casters are in the
down position. Draw a line on the tape
13⁄4" from the bottom edge of the rail.
the rail and into the legs (C).

5 Turn the base right side up. Cut the

rail stiffener (G) to size, and glue
assemblies, and lower back rail (F) [ Draw- Drill holes in the rail for the eyebolt and clamp it to the top edge of the lower
ing 3]. Align the pivot block holes with lever pins [ Drawing 4, Photo D ]. Apply back rail (F) [ Drawing 4 ].

4 BASE
join the base ends Drill the lever-pin holes
C

FILENAME:178TblswEx4_#100504838.eps
F Filename: 178tablesaw Spacer
EXtable3
to keep
Date: 2-07
Lorna J. R LeMoine B parallel
C
2-9-07 to F

1¾"
B

C D
Glue and clamp the back rails (F) into the end assembly leg (C) Using the hole in the lever (B) as a guide, align the drill bit with the
rabbets. Check for square, drill screw holes, and drive the screws. marked line, and drill a lever-pin hole through the rail (F).

50 WOOD magazine September 2007

 Add the top #8 x 1fi" F.H.

1
wood screw
Cut the end trim (H) and front and 60" 30"
back trim (I) to size. Set the back
trim aside. Clamp the end trim and
front trim to the legs (C) with the top
edge of the trim protruding 3⁄4" beyond ‡"
N
the tops of the legs [ Drawing 5 ]. (Use a
scrap of 3⁄4" plywood for a gauge.) Drill H
A N screw holes and drive the screws. (For #8 11Á"
screws in hardwood, drill 5⁄32" shank Clearance
O ‡" 29‹" 24" notch, cut
B holes and 7⁄64" pilot holes.) after assembly
L K
C
D
P

Q
2 Cut the top supports (J), end
cleats (K), outer
cleats (L), and inner
I

M
M
14Á"
J
‰" chamfer
routed after
assembly
J
cleats (M) to size. #8 x 2" F.H. ‡" L J
E R #8 x 1‹" F.H.
Then clamp the parts wood screw
wood screw 1‡"
S
F in place with the top K
#8 x 2" F.H. F
edges 3⁄4" below the ‡"
G T wood screw
top edges of the end ‡" 2fi" #8 x 2"
H U trim (H) and front F.H. wood
H screw
V trim (I), and with the 30" I
top edges of the top sup- 61fi"
J W 2fi" #8 x 1‹" F.H.
ports flush with the top edge of wood screws
X the upper back rail (F) [ Drawing 5 ].
K B
Y Now drill screw holes and drive the
G B
L screws. Retrieve the back trim, and
Z clamp it to the upper back rail. Drill
M
screw holes, and drive the screws.

3 Cut the top (N) to size. Clamp it in F 5 top

place, resting on the upper back rail
(F), top supports (J), and cleats (K, L, M).
Drill screw holes, and drive the screws.
Rout a 3⁄16" chamfer along the outer edges
of the trim (H, I). 2 Tap the T-nuts into the holes in the
bottoms of the legs (C), and screw in 2 To position the bench over your
tablesaw, first remove the blade

4 Position the workbench over your the levelers. Insert eyebolts into the lever guard, miter gauge, and rip fence from
tablesaw, and on the inside face of (B) end holes, and secure them with the tablesaw. Then withdraw the eye-
the upper back rail (F), mark the loca- washers and lock nuts [ Drawing 4 ].
B J G J
bolts from the holes in the upper back
tion of any part of the tablesaw that rail (F). Rotate the levers (B) to the hori-
5 TOP
protrudes beyond the back fence rail Using the workbench
A A A
zontal position (casters down), and
A

1
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Maple (5.3 bd. ft.)
and interferes with the upper back rail. To use the bench as a tablesaw insert the eyebolts into the holes in the
Then transfer the marks to the outside outfeed support, rotate theClevers (B) lower back C rail (F). Now rollC the bench
face of the upper back rail. Now lay out to the vertical position (casters up), and into place,needed)
FILENAME:178TblswEx5_#100504839.eps 1fi x 3fi x 120" Pine (2x4) (2 and depress the caster locks
a notch, adding 1" ofDate: 2-07
clearance all insert the protruding ends of Cthe eye- with yourCfoot. ¿
Filename: 178tablesaw EXtabl
Lorna J.
around the obstruction. Jigsaw and sand bolts into the holes in the1fi upper
x 3fi xback
96" Pine (2x4) R LeMoine
the notch. rail (F). Adjust the levelers so theD bench Project D
2-9-07
Written by Jan Svec with Chuck Hedlund
D
design: Jeff Norris, Delta, B.C. D
height matches your tablesaw 1fiheight.
x 3fi x 120" Pine (2x4) Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
Illustrations:
Apply finish and
A N hardware

1 Inspect the bench, and finish-sand,

B O
where needed. Ease any sharp edges
with a sanding block. P
C Apply the finish.
H I
‡ x 5fi x 96" Maple (4 bd. ft.)

K L M
D Q
‡ x 5fi x 96" Maple (4 bd. ft.)
Cutting Diagram
E R
B J SG J E N
F

A A G T A A
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Maple (5.3 bd. ft.)
H U
C C C
V
I
1fi x 3fi x 120" Pine (2x4) (2 needed) E
C J W C F
1fi x 3fi x 96" Pine (2x4) X
K F
D D D D
Y
1fi x 3fi x 120" Pine (2x4)
L ‡ x 48 x 96" Birch plywood
Z
M 51
H I
‡ x 5fi x 96" Maple (4 bd. ft.)
 Slender-and-Simple
Tower
Shelves

Keep favorite display pieces,

cds, and other items in this
easy-to-build, narrow-case
project. make it from red oak
and red oak plywood for a
traditional look, left, or go
contemporary by combining
clear-finished maple with
metal legs, above.
ProJect hiGhliGhts
 Overall dimensions are 19" wide ×
13 1⁄2" deep × 733⁄4" high (traditional).
 For the contemporary version, omit the
base parts (I through M) and mount
the metal feet (see source) to the
bottom panel (B/E). For other foot
options and sources, go to
woodmagazine.com/footopt.
Skill Builder
 Learn how to easily and precisely
flush-trim edging to the faces and ends
of plywood panels.

52 WOOD magazine September 2007

 #8 x 1‹" F.H. wood screw Mitered ends
Start with the case Countersunk shank hole O O

1 Cut the plywood sides (A), panels

(B), and shelves (C) to the sizes listed
[ Materials List, page 56]. Then, from 3⁄4"
‹" cove
19"
N
13fi"
3"

stock, rip ⁄16"-wide pieces for the side

13 1 eXPloDeD View #20 biscuit #20 biscuit #17 x ‡" wire nail
edging (D), panel edging (E), and shelf 11‡"
B ‡"
edging (F) to the lengths listed plus 1" to E
allow for flush-trimming with the ply-
wood faces and ends.

2
A ‹" shelf pin
Glue the side edging (D) to the sides ‡"
(A), panel edging (E) to the panels
G
(B), and shelf edging (F) to the shelves
(C) [ Drawing 1], centering the edging D
side-to-side and end to end. A
11‹" 15›"
A N
Next, using a flush-trim bit in 16‹"
C
your handheld router and the ‹" rabbet
B O easy-to-make jig shown on page F ›" deep 37fl" D
22, rout all of the edging flush 15›"
C P
with the faces of the plywood. ‡"
D Q Then, crosscut the edging flush with 68"
the ends, as explained in the Shop Tip, B
E R
below. Sand the edged parts smooth to E
S 220 grit. 1‡"
F
G

H
T

U
3 On the inside faces of the sides (A/
D), draw centerlines for #20 biscuit
slots for joining the panels (B/E) to the
R
E
B

2"
sides [ Drawing 2 ]. Then draw centerlines Q #20 6‹"
V P biscuit
I for the mating slots in the ends of the 30›"
slot
J W panels [ Drawing 1]. S H

K
X
Y
4 Using your biscuit joiner, plunge the
slots into the sides (A/D) at the ends
and centered into the ends of the panels
Q
11fi"
15fi"
L
Z (B/E). Then plunge the slots into the ‡" B
M center of the sides [ Photo A]. E

5 Mark centerpoints for 1⁄4" holes 3⁄8"

deep for shelf pins on the inside faces
of the sides (A/D) [ Drawing 2 ]. Using a
15fi"

#8 x 1‹" F.H. wood screw

M
#8 x 2" F.H.
wood screw

brad-point bit wrapped with a piece of K

masking tape for a visual depth stop, face [ Drawing 2 ] to receive the K M
drill the holes. plywood top and bottom backs

6
J
Using a dado blade in your tablesaw, (G, H) [Drawing 1]. L I
cut a ⁄4" rabbet ⁄8" deep along the
7 Glue and assemble the sides
1 3

back edge of each side (A/D) on the inside (A/D) and panels (B/E) with #20

SHOP TIP PlunGe Face slots in the sides

1 EXPLODED VIEW
An easy way to
flush-trim edging ends
FILENAME:178TowrShlv1_#100504950.eps
Guide
Date:
Ever wonder how to trim 3-07
the
Lorna J.
ends of Filename: 178 Towershelves 4
edging flush with plywood panels R LeMoine
without nicking them? A super-simple 2-15-07
guide lets you do it precisely and
quickly. Here’s how.
B E
Place the long edge of a 6×12" piece
of 3⁄4" scrap (we used medium-density
fiberboard) against your tablesaw rip
fence, and position the fence so that 6¼"
A D 2"
the opposite edge of this guide is
flush with the outside of the blade safety, use a stand to support long
teeth. Then position and hold a panel panels. Start the saw, and advance the A
tightly against the guide with the guide and panel to flush-cut the Using a panel (b/e) clamped to a side (A/D)
edging end overhanging the front. For edging, as shown. for a guide, plunge the slots for #20 biscuits
in the center of the sides at the marked lines.

woodmagazine.com 53
 2 PArt View
biscuits [ Photo B ], keeping all ofVIEW
2 PART the edg- the sides (J) [ Photo D ]. Then glue and
6‹" ing flush at the front and checking the clamp the front and side cleats (L, M) in
2" 2" ›"
case for square. position, flush with the top edges of the

#20 biscuit
8 Cut the top and bottom backs (G, H)
to size. Sand the backs smooth, and
set them aside.
front (I) and sides.

7 To mount the base, position and

clamp it to the bottom of the case
12" slot
[ Photo E ]. Using the shank holes in the
Next up: the base and top base supports (K) and front and side

1"
1 From 3 ⁄4" stock, cut a 5×48" blank to
form the base front and sides (I, J).
Rout a 1 ⁄4" cove [ Drawing 3 ] along an
cleats (L, M) as guides, drill pilot holes
into the case, and drive the screws
[ Drawing 1].

37‹"
D
‹" holes
›" deep 37fl"
edge of the blank.

2 Miter-cut the base front (I) and sides

(J) from the blank to the listed
8 From 3 ⁄4" stock, cut a 3×48" blank to
form the front and side top trim (N,
O). Rout a 1 ⁄4" cove [ Drawing 1] along an
lengths. Next, adjust your biscuit-joiner edge of the blank.
fence to center the cutter 5 ⁄16" from the
inside faces of the parts [ Drawing 3 ].
(This prevents the cutter from breaking
9 Miter-cut the front and side trim
(N, O) from the blank to the listed
lengths. Plunge slots for #20 biscuits
2" through the outside faces.) Then plunge centered into the mitered ends of the
2"
A the slots for #20 biscuits into the mitered trim. To assemble the trim, crosscut
ends of the parts. the spacer that you set aside earlier to

3
‡" Lay out the radiused opening on 13" long. Then glue, biscuit, and clamp
68" the base front (I). Bandsaw and sand the trim together, using the spacer at
6" 6‡" the opening to shape. Sand the front the back to keep the parts square. Now
3" and sides smooth. position and clamp the trim to the case

Location of #20 biscuit Location

of parts
4 To assemble the base, cut a 5×161 ⁄ 2"
spacer from 3 ⁄4" scrap. Then glue,
biscuit, and clamp the front and sides
top, aligning the trim as you did for the
base. Drill the countersunk mounting
holes through the trim and into the
10" full- slots
extension B / E together with the spacer [ Photo C ]. Save case, and drive the screws.
drawer slide the spacer. You’ll use it again (after
trimming) to assemble the front and Add the drawer

1"
side top trim (N, O) and to mount the
drawer slides to the case sides (A/D). 1 Cut the drawer front/back (P), sides
(Q), bottom (R), and face (S) to the

5
‹" rabbet Cut the base supports (K) and base sizes listed. Sand smooth.

2
›" deep
front and side cleats (L, M) to the To form the drawer joint [ Drawing
8" sizes listed. Lay out the angled area on 4a ], use a dado blade in your
the supports [ Drawing 3 ]. Bandsaw to tablesaw or a straight bit in your router
shape. Now drill countersunk shank to cut or rout a 1 ⁄4" rabbet 1 ⁄4" deep along
11‡"
‡" holes through the supports and cleats each end of the front/back (P) on the
Note: Right side A is a mirror image. for mounting the base to the case later. outside faces [ Drawing 4 ]. Then cut or
Sand the parts smooth. rout a 1 ⁄4" dado 1 ⁄4" deep 1 ⁄4" from each

6
SIDE
(Inside face of left side shown) To complete the base, glue, biscuit, end of the sides (Q) on the inside faces.
and clamp the base supports (K) to Now cut a 1 ⁄4" groove 1 ⁄4" deep 1 ⁄4" from

assemble the case Glue, biscuit, and clamP the base toGether in two easY staGes

J
v2_#100504951.eps A D
Filename: 178 Towershelves 1
B E B E R LeMoine I
B E K
2-15-07 J Spacer

I J
J
A D K

B C D
Glue, biscuit, and clamp the sides (A/D) and Assemble the base front (i) and sides (J) with the angled cutout facing down, glue,
panels (b/e) together. Measure for equal together with glue, biscuits, and a 3⁄4 ×5×161⁄2" biscuit, and clamp each base support (K) to
diagonals to verify square. spacer to keep the assembly square. a side (J).

54 WOOD magazine September 2007

 #20 biscuit slot
3 base ˇ"
M #20 biscuit slot,
#20 biscuit-slot centerline K centered
5"
‹" cove 2fi" 1fi"
J #20 biscuit
K
16fi"
Shank holes, 5"
5" countersunk 1fi"
L on bottom #8 x 2" F.H. 10fi"
R=2" wood screw
#8 x 1‹" F.H. 1fi"
wood screw M
4" I 1"

Mitered end
J
18" Mitered end
#20 biscuit 13"

‹" dadoes ‹" deep ‹" from ends

4 drawer ‹"

‹"

Q P 10" full-extension
drawer slide
fi" 14"
‰" hole, centered
5‹" fi"
R Q
3 BASE 5‹"
5Œ"
Countersunk
P shank hole
A N #8 x 1" F.H. wood screw

FILENAME:178TowrShlv3_#100504952.eps
Date: 3-07
B O
S Filename: 178 Towershelves 311"
‹" grooves ‹" deep 2fl"
‹"R LeMoine
‹" rabbets
Lorna J. C P ‹" deep from bottom edges
D Q
15›" 2-15-07
‡" 4a drawer Joint detail
1‹" brass knob
E R
S Q
F ‹"
the bottom edges of the front, back, tom (R) captured in the grooves. Check
G T
and sides to fit the plywood bottom (R). for square.

3 Glue and clamp the H front/back

U (P)
and sides (Q) together with the bot-
I
V
4 Separate the members of the 10"
full-extension drawer slides. Using ‹"
S
P

attach the base J W mount the drawer slides

Á"
X
K
Y B E
L I
Z ¾" the screws supplied with the slides,
M mount a small slide member to each
L 4 DRAWER A D
drawer side (Q), centered top to bottom
J and flush at the front [ Drawing 4 ].

5
B E J
To mount the large slide members to
M the case sides (A/D) [ Drawing 2], posi-
tion the case on a side. Using a square,
K FILENAME:178TowrShlv4_#100504953.eps Filename:
draw a line178 Towershelves
across the width of a2side,
Date: 3-07
Lorna J.
K Spacer R LeMoine
centered in the drawer opening between
4a DRAWER JOINT DETAIL
2-15-07
the panels (B/E). Center the mounting
holes in a slide on the line. Measure
B E from the top of the lower center panel to
E F
Align and clamp the base to the case bottom, Center each large slide member in the drawer
the bottom of the slide. Next, rip the 3⁄4"
flush at the back and centered side-to-side. opening with a spacer. Align the large slide spacer to your measurement and cross-
Drill the pilot holes, and drive the screws. end 3⁄4" from the front edge of the side (A/D). cut the piece to 11" long. Now, using the
FILENAME:178TowrShlv4a_#100504954.eps Fil
woodmagazine.com Date: 3-07
Lorna J.
55 R
2-1
 spacer to center the slides in the open-
ing, align and screw-mount the slides to
the sides [ Photo F].
through the drawer front and into the
face [ Drawing 4 ]. Remove the face and
tape. Screw-mount the face to the front.
3 Fasten a 11⁄4" brass knob to the drawer
using the screw supplied with the
knob. Then remount the drawer slides,

6 Slide the drawer into the opening,

engaging the slides, and verify that Time to wrap things up
and slide in the drawer. Attach the top
and bottom backs (G, H) with #17× 3⁄4"
the slides move smoothly. Then, to
mount the drawer face (S), apply a few
pieces of double-faced tape to the back.
1 Remove the drawer and slides. Fin-
ish-sand any parts that need it to
220 grit, and remove the dust.
wire nails [ Drawing 1].

4 Using a helper, move the unit to the

desired location. Caution: To prevent
Center the face in the opening, and
press the face firmly to the drawer front
(P). Next, drill a centered 3⁄16" hole
2 Apply a stain and clear finish. (We
applied Varathane no. 245 Tradi-
tional Cherry Stain followed by three
tipping, secure the unit to the wall, driving
suitable fasteners into a stud. Or install an
anti-tip kit, containing a short cable and
through the face and drawer front for coats of Minwax Polycrylic Water-Based brackets for screw-mounting to the case back
mounting a 11⁄4" brass knob. Now, extend Clear Satin Protective Finish, sanding to and wall (available at your local home cen-
the drawer. Drill the mounting holes 320 grit between coats.) ter). Install the shelves (C/F) using 1⁄4"
shelf pins [ Drawing 1]. Now fill ’er up. ¿

Written by Owen Duvall with Kevin Boyle

Project design: Jeff Mertz
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

Cutting Diagram
L M F
F
N O O
S
Materials List
E E FINISHED SIZE
D
Case T W L Matl. Qty.
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Red oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
A sides 3⁄4" 113⁄4" 68" OP 2
I J J K K *P *P
B panels 3⁄4" 111⁄2" 151⁄2" OP 4
‡ x 5fi x 96" Red oak (4 bd. ft.) C shelves 3⁄4" 111⁄4" 153⁄8" OP 4
*Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Materials List.
D* side edging 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 68" O 2
*Q *Q E* panel edging 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 151⁄2" O 4

‡ x 5fi x 24" Red oak (1 bd. ft.) F* shelf edging 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 153⁄8" O 4
G top back 1⁄4" 161⁄4" 375⁄8" OP 1
H bottom back 1⁄4" 161⁄4" 303⁄8" OP 1
C C C C
Base and top trim
I* base front 3⁄4" 5" 18" O 1
B B B B J* base sides 3⁄4" 5" 13" O 2
K base supports 3⁄4" 5" 5" O 2
L base front cleat 3⁄4" 1" 161⁄2" O 1
A M base side cleats 3⁄4" 1" 101⁄2" O 2
N* front top trim 3⁄4" 3" 19" O 1
O* side top trim 3⁄4" 3" 131⁄2" O 2
A Drawer
P front/back 1⁄2" 51⁄4" 14" O 2
Q sides 1⁄2" 51⁄4" 11" O 2
‡ x 48 x 96" Red oak plywood
R bottom 1⁄4" 14" 101⁄2" OP 1
S face 3⁄4" 57⁄8" 153⁄8" O 1
R *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.

Materials key: OP–red oak plywood, O–red oak.

Supplies: #20 biscuits (30), #8x1” flathead wood
screws (5), #8×11⁄4" flathead wood screws (16), #8×2"
H flathead wood screws (2), 10" full-extension drawer slides
(1 pr.), double-faced tape, 11⁄4" brass knob, #17×3⁄4" wire
nails, anti-tip kit, 1⁄4" shelf pins (16).
Blade and bits: Dado-blade set (or 1⁄4" straight router
bit); flush-trim and 1⁄4" cove router bits; 1⁄4" brad-point bit.
Source
G Metal legs (for contemporary version):
41⁄2"-high satin-nickel legs with self-leveling glides no.
35937, $12.79 ea. (4) plus shipping and handling. Call or
‹ x 48 x 48" Red oak plywood click Rockler; 800-279-4441, rockler.com.

56 WOOD magazine September 2007

ng Diagram
 ripped to finished

after machining

angled wedge
mortise holes.
width of 10fl"

tenons and
*Note: Side

*11"
4fi"

1‡"
1fi"

angled at 4°
›" hole
Better Homes and Gardens®
©Copyright Meredith

1fi"
Corporation, 2007. All rights
reserved. Printed in the U.S.A.
Meredith Corp., the pub-

‡"

‡"
lisher of WOOD Patterns®,
allows the purchaser of this

PAT TERNS
®

pattern insert to photocopy

these patterns solely for per-
sonal use. Any other repro-
duction of these patterns is
September 2007 Issue 178 strictly prohibited.

ˇ" hole

¤" round-over

Centerline
Location of part F

W
Q
O
N

U
V
S

X
Y

E
M
G
D
C

H
B

ROCKER
A

L
J
I

FULL-SIZE Join patterns here.

HALF-PATTERN
(2 needed)
Filename: 178Cradle 3
R LeMoine

Dear Reader: As a service to you, we’ve included

full-size patterns on this insert for irregular shaped
2-14-07

and intricate project parts. You can machine all other

project parts using the Materials List and the drawings
accompanying the project you’re building.
57
58
RIGHT-SIDE LEFT-SIDE
HALF-PATTERN HALF-PATTERN

1" hole 1" hole

A
END
FULL-SIZE
HALF-PATTERNS
(4 needed)

¤" round-over ¤" round-over

¤" round-over
 4fi"

Page 38
Heirloom Cradle,
Join patterns here. Join patterns here.

fi x 1fi" through mortise

fi"

fi" groove ‹" deep

Location of part C on inside face

fi" ¤" round-over

63
 CKER
E

part F
eded)
ATTERN
-SIZE

ˇ" hole
¤" round-over

END PATTERN
A N

FULL-SIZE

(4 needed)
4fi"
B O
Align with shoulder of tenon.

SIDE
P
JUMP-A-PEG GAME BASE

B
C
FULL-SIZE PATTERN
D Q ‹" chamfer
B
E R

Join patterns here.

S ˛" holes SIDE
F
fl" deep FULL-SIZE

1‡"

1fi"
G T CORNER PATTERN

Centerline
H U (4 needed)
V
I
J W 4fi"
X
K
Y
L
Z
M

1‡" fi"
G
fi"
fi" 1‡" 1‹"
‡"
Note: Stock is ‡"-thick WEDGE FULL-SIZE PATTERN
(8 needed)
Jump-A-Peg Game,
Page 66
FILENAME:178CradlPP1_#100504966.eps
Date: 3-07
Lorna J.

AME:178PegGamePP_#100505038.eps
5-07 Filename: 178 square peg game
J.
R LeMoine
4-30-07

¤" round-over

Align with shoulder of tenon.

Heirloom Cradle,
B
Page 38
SIDE
FULL-SIZE
CORNER PATTERN
(4 needed)

64
Growing Tomorrow’s
Woodworkers

Entrepreneur Paul Meisel has developed a simple,

proven system to turn kids on to woodworking

Example isn’t another way to teach, it is closer to extinction in public schools industrial arts teacher who’s now a
the only way to teach. across America. So if schools will no woodworking supplier, has created a
—Albert Einstein longer teach woodworking, wood- program—drawing from a method called
workers need to step up to ensure that Study Technology—that anyone can

B
lame it on budget cuts or demand the next generation will experience the implement to teach youngsters about
for more college-prep classes, but joys of our craft. woodworking. We joined Paul at Flag-
academia has gradually pushed One man has already begun. Paul ship Academy in Minneapolis, where he
vocational skills, such as woodworking, Meisel, a former junior-high-school volunteer-teaches students age 9 to 14.

66 WOOD magazine September 2007

 It’s up to you to stress safety
Before teaching children how to work with wood, check with your insurance
company about coverage and liability. Then, follow these guidelines:
✔ Prepare your shop by clearing the benchtops, work areas, floor, and walkways
of anything that could be a hazard.
✔ Wear safety glasses when using any tools, even hand tools. Wear hearing
protection when using power tools.
✔ Because youngsters likely have never used tools before, it’s imperative to show
them the correct methods and techniques. Don’t take for granted that they
know how to use even the simplest tools.
✔ Do not allow running, horseplay, teasing, or throwing anything.
✔ Have them dress appropriately, especially when using power tools: Roll up
long sleeves past the elbows; don’t wear coats or gloves while working; tie all
shoestrings tightly; remove all necklaces, bracelets, and rings; secure long hair
so it’s tied up or back.
✔ Do not hold screws or nails in your mouth.
✔ Have them come to you immediately if they get sawdust in an eye or a splinter
in a finger.

“By teaching it this way, the students master it so well and

so quickly, you don’t have to show them again. They
literally thrive on it. Some of them even have the
confidence to teach other students.”

Teaching fundamentals: With the second phase, students

Master, then move on touch, create, and experience what
Whether you learned woodworking in they’re learning rather than rely solely
school, from your father or grandfather, on textbook theories and documenta-
from magazines, books, or videos, or if tion. They also complete a project, such
your skills simply grew from tackling as the lollipop tree shown at top right,
home-repair projects, at some point you with each new skill learned. Later steps
had to learn the basic skills from some- combine skills already learned and mas-
one. Paul’s program enables you to be tered to create more complex projects.
that someone in a child’s life.
“For many of the kids who took a Projects help kids see
woodshop class in school, that was their the results of their work
first and sometimes only exposure to The third phase deals with the “misun-
working with tools and wood,” says derstood word phenomenon.” This
Paul. “Some of them will never pick up a happens when a child hears or reads a
tool again, but most of them will use word or phrase and does not understand
what they learned in that class over and it, yet continues on despite being con-
over again at different points in their fused. “It’s like when you get to the end
lives. So missing that exposure as a child of a page and ask yourself, ‘What did I
can have long-term effects.” just read?’ ” Paul explains. “You can
The key to Paul’s program lies in using always trace your point of confusion
the three components of Study Technol- back to a word you didn’t understand.”
ogy. First, apply a gradient approach: To avoid this, Paul explains every
Break down each skill to a basic level, detail in terms the youngsters can
and get the child to master it through understand, and encourages them to ask
repetition before advancing to the next questions when something eludes them.
skill. “By teaching it this way, the stu- Don’t assume kids know basic wood-
dents master it so well and so quickly, working terms.
you don’t have to show them again,” Paul hopes to see this program picked
Paul explains. “They literally thrive on up and taught to Scout troops, 4-H clubs,
it. Some of them even have the confi- summer camps, after-school programs,
dence to teach other students.” schools, or even grandchildren or neigh-
“This is the first time I’ve actually got- borhood kids. “Repetition and mastery toP: Stef Brunner, 10, puts the last treat in place on
ten to use tools,” says 13-year-old Kore of skills are the critical elements,” he her lollipop tree. Students use sawing, sanding, and
Hanson. “It’s a lot of fun. I never get to insists, “and you certainly don’t need to drilling skills on this project.
do stuff like this. I like to make things be a licensed teacher to be able to teach MiDDle: Kids enjoy playing the jump-a-peg games
they make. The pegs are stained 1⁄4" dowels inserted
and take them home to my mom.” this program.” into stopped holes.
BottoM: Paul Meisel, right, shows Kore Hanson,
woodmagazine.com 13, how to properly grip a claw hammer. 67
Fun Projects to Master Four Basic Skills

Skill #1 blank (precut by the instructor to a

length suitable for each child’s name),
the students drive 5⁄8" wire nails into the
letters, as shown at left.
“There’s inevitably a lot of elephant
tracks on their boards, and a few sore
fingertips when they’re done,” Paul
laughs. “But in the course of making
their name plates I see great progress.”
“I like nailing the best,” says a grin-
ning Stef Brunner. “It was fun, because I
never did it before.”

Students master this

skill when they can:
✔ Explain why the face of the
hammer is slightly rounded (to set
a nail flush with the board face
without creating a big dent)
✔ Show the correct way to grip a
hammer
Above, Kore maps out his name on a plaque by driving in 5⁄8" wire nails. ✔ Describe the difference between
wire brads and wire nails (Wire
brads have smaller, dimpled heads
Hammer out a nameplate not easy to do for kids who have never to accept a nail set, while wire
with wire nails used a hammer. nails have larger, flat heads.)
After learning safety rules, students They practice driving 5⁄8" 18-gauge ✔ Join two boards at 90° with 1 1⁄4"
begin using an 8- to 13-ounce claw wire nails and 11⁄4" 17-gauge wire brads wire brads
hammer. Kids learn the parts of a ham- into pine. When they’ve gained confi- ✔ Drive nails without bending them
mer, the correct way to grip the handle, dence, they move on to the project: a ✔ Explain what to do if a wire nail or
and how to swing it when driving a nail. nameplate. After tracing their names brad bends or changes its angle
We might take this for granted, but it’s with carbon paper onto a 3⁄4 ×4" pine while driving.

Skill #2 Sand to remove marks

and make wood smooth
“Then, as you change grits, it should
take fewer strokes. Many of them sand
If they’re going to get involved in wood- much longer than they need to.”
working, kids might as well learn early
the necessity of sanding their work,
even though it might not be a lot of
fun. Paul teaches his students to wrap Students master this
sandpaper around a square-edge wood skill when they can:
block, and sand by hand. He explains
✔ Wrap sandpaper around a
the importance of beginning with
sanding block
coarse-grit sandpaper (60 or 80 grit) to ✔ Sand while holding the sanding
remove machining marks, and then block flat on the workpiece
finish-sanding (120 to 220 grit) to ✔ Sand face grain, edge grain, and
eliminate scratches and smooth the end grain
wood surface. ✔ Explain how different grades of
He also demonstrates how to sand sandpaper are used to remove
with the grain rather than across it to saw marks and smooth the wood
avoid making scratches that are more surface
noticeable. Students then implement ✔ Explain why you wipe away
sanding dust rather than blow it.
these new skills by sanding all surfaces
(Wiping it off a board allows dust
on a 3⁄4 ×41⁄2 ×41⁄2" pine blank for a jump- to drop, while blowing it suspends
Tyler Moe, 14, sands end grain on his jump-a-
a-peg game, which carries into Skill #3. it in the air and could get it in
peg base, while Stef Brunner repositions her “It should take only 15 to 20 strokes to your eyes.)
workpiece in the vise. remove saw marks,” Paul explains.

68 WOOD magazine September 2007

 Skill #3 Drill stopped holes
for a quick game
using the drill press, and do not talk to
or distract anyone using the drill press.
This phase introduces students to their After completing the jump-a-peg
first power tool, a drill press. Paul thinks game, students learn how to drill
it’s best to use a small benchtop model through-holes using scrap stock.
so the children don’t have to stand on a Through-holes play an integral role in
step stool to reach the controls. They the next project.
practice on scrapwood before drilling
the 33 stopped holes for their jump-a-
peg game base. To begin, they adhere Students master this
the full-size pattern, found in the WOOD skill when they can:
Patterns® insert on page 57, to the base
with clear or masking tape. Next, they ✔ Select the correct drill bit for a
punch starter holes, as shown at left. desired hole
Parker Harstad, 9, left, and Students then drill the holes 5⁄8" deep, ✔ Install and tighten a bit into the
Isabelle Sichler, 10, use awls drill chuck
shown below left, using the depth stop
to make starter holes on their ✔ Set and use a vertical depth stop
game boards before drilling. on the drill press. (Paul provides the on the drill press for partial-depth
precut, finished gamepieces.) holes, and a horizontal stop by
Using a drill press brings additional clamping a fence to the table
safety rules: ✔ Correctly lower and raise the quill
■ Remove the chuck key after installing feed handle when drilling
Brendon O’Brien, 13, a bit and before turning on the power. ✔ Align the bit with the center hole
drills the 7⁄32" holes ■ Hold or clamp workpieces securely to avoid drilling into the table
for the jump-a-peg ✔ Use a backer board to prevent
gamepieces. Students
when drilling.
■ Do not reach near a spinning bit. tear-out when through-drilling.
drill the holes with the
pattern attached. ■ Do not talk to anyone while you are

Skill #4

Far leFt: Nikki Dickerson, 13, Ryan Moe, 13, and Brendon
O’Brien cut “branches” for their lollipop trees.
MiDDle: Paul explains a miter cut to Nikki and how to make one
using a miterbox.
RIGHT: After squaring one end of their workpieces, the students
measure and mark it for length.

Crosscut wood with a well as dowel holes in the base blocks.)

saw and miterbox Students learn to use a tape measure and
Before they have the confidence to use a pencil to mark each piece, as shown Students master this
power saw, students learn the basics of above right, then saw on the waste side of skill when they can:
sawing wood by hand. For this, Paul the mark.
uses a crosscut backsaw with a miterbox. “It’s not instinctive to pick up a saw ✔ Correctly hold boards in a
After students make several 45° and 90° and start cutting,” Paul says. “You have miterbox
practice cuts in 3⁄4 × 3⁄4" pine, they begin to teach them the right technique, how ✔ Explain why they should cut on
the waste side of the line
making their next project: the lollipop to start a cut, to take about one stroke per
✔ Hold the saw parallel to the
tree. (See the next page for dimensions.) second.” workpiece’s top face while sawing
This consists of nine successively longer Paul adds the skill of painting for the ✔ Explain why it’s best to start a cut
pieces cut from 3⁄4 × 3⁄4" stock prepared by lollipop tree. He thins interior latex paint by pulling the saw toward you
the instructor, as well as 2"- and 41⁄2"- with equal parts water to color the wood ✔ Give four examples where miter
square blocks for the base. (They also but still allow the grain to show through. joints would be used.
drill holes through each “branch” for Students apply it like a dye, wiping off
the lollipops and the center dowel, as the excess after a minute.

woodmagazine.com 69
 Combine the Skills in Fun-to-Make Projects
Toy cars

Wind spinner

Candle holder

‡"
Plant holder

¸" hole
toy car plan Lollipop Tree plan 1" wooden ball
owel 1fi" long
‹" hole fl" deep
‡" ⁄ " hole, centered
17 64
‹" dowel 9fi" long
‡ x 2fi"
¸" hole
¤" dowel 1fi" long
1"-diam. ‡ x 3"
wooden wheels
A N
‡ x 3fi"
B O
‡ x 4" Lollipop
C P
‡ x 4fi"
D Q 1"-diam.
wooden wheels ‡ x 5"
‰" holes
E R ›" from
each end
S ‡ x 5fi"
F
G T ‡ x 6"
›" holes Note: All stock ‡" thick
H U
V ‡ x 6fi" ⁄ " hole, centered
17 64
I
1fi" J W
‹" hole
CARXFULL-SIZE PATTERN fl" deep,
K ›" holes 2"
centered 2"
Y 2fi"
L ‡"
Z
M ¸" holes
1fi"
CAR FULL-SIZE PATTERN 4fi" 4fi"
2fi"

Putting it all together length the six side pieces from 3⁄4"-square pine. They saw the car body to length,
¸" holes
Paul has designed each project to rein- stock with 45° beveled ends, using a cut the windshield angle in front, then
force skills and provide opportunities to stopblock to ensure they’re all the same sand all surfaces smooth. Next, they
041.eps practice them. For the candle holder, length. After sanding each part, the stu- drill holes for windows (one for a deliv-
shown above center, students beginFilename: 178 Toycar
by dents assemble them with glue and 11⁄4" ery truck, two for a car or van, and three
cutting to length the three bottom R LeMoine
wire brads.
LOLLIPOP TREE
for a bus) and wheel axles. Finally,
5-11-07
pieces from 3⁄4 ×11⁄4" stock (determined by For another project, the kids make they install store-bought wheels onto
the size of the candle). Next, they cut to small cars, shown top center, from 3⁄4 ×11⁄2" precut axles.
178Car_#100505041.eps
70 WOOD magazine September 2007
FILENAME:178LolTree_#100505047.eps Filename: 178 suc
Date: 5-07 Filename: 178 Toycar
Lorna J. R LeMoine R LeMoine
 ›"

Plant HolDer Plan

A N
R=5‡"
B O
1‹" wire brad
C P

D Q ‡"
11‹"
E R
S ‡" ‡"
F 11"
G T

H U
V
I
J W
11‹"
X Enlarge 400% for full-size pattern
K
Y
L WinD SPinner Plan
Z ‡"
M ‹" coupler ‡"
Cut a 2" flat
on top and Thread cord through
Filename: 178
bottom cleat. windspinner
‹" washer ‹" hole, centered (both ends) holes for hanging.
R LeMoine ‹" all-thread
fl"
5-11-07 12" long
‹" hole, centered Once a teacher,
CanDle HolDer Plan 45° bevel always a teacher
45° bevel Although you might not know
‡"
Paul Meisel, you might
recognize his name. Paul owns
‡" 6fi" and operates Meisel Hardware
Specialties, selling hardware,
#18 x 1‹" wire brad tools, wood, supplies, and
project plans from his catalog,
Filename:
Web 178inPlanthange
site, and store
FILENAME:178PlantH_#100505040.eps suburban Minneapolis.
Date: 5-07 R LeMoine
It was while teaching
Lorna J. 5-11-07
industrial arts 30 years ago
that Paul realized his knack for
‡" designing projects with
straight-forward construction
that had high appeal even
›" beginning woodworkers could
›"
‹" washer 5" manage. “Pretty soon, other
1‹"
1‹" fl" industrial-arts teachers were
‹" nut fl" calling, wanting my project
plans.” he chuckles. “I
thought, ‘Wouldn’t it be great
Students can build a hanging plant holder, Paul continues to develop his program, and to just design projects and sell
shown on previous page and above right, that’s plans to publish it someday as a book. He the plans?’ So I quit teaching,
similar to the candle holder. After cutting all encourages you to set up your own skill courses and started Meisel Hardware
the parts from 3⁄4"-square pine or cedar, they as long as you keep them simple and under- Specialties.” Today, his
drill holes through each end of the bottom standable, teach them through repetition, and company has more than
pieces to receive twine for hanging. Next, they create a project that uses the new skills as well 3,000 project plans, as well as
assemble it with glue and 11⁄4" wire brads. CANDLE
as those alreadyHOLDER
learned. He continues to hard-to-find hardware.
You›" can purchase a
A wind spinner, shown above, makes an develop additional projects to accompany skill
hardware parts package,
entertaining outdoor project. The kids build it lessons. Next on his radar: gluing and clamp-
which contains everything
from cedar, which holds up well against ing, using screws, power sanding, scrollsaw- needed to build all seven
weather, or pine if they plan to paint it. Com- ing, bandsawing, and introducing students to projects (kit #3063, $20), by
successive lengths, shorter hardwoods and plywoods.
ponents consist ofFILENAME:178CndleH_#100505048.eps
Date:and
5-07
¿ Filename: 178
R=5‡" candle holder
calling 800-441-9870 or at
at the bottom and top wider in the middle, meiselwoodhobby.com.
Lorna J. R LeMoine
with a hole in the center for the hanging rod. Written by Bob Hunter with Paul Meisel
5-2
woodmagazine.com 71
11‹"
 Photo-Frame
Catchall Box

this easy-to-build box displays up to 10 favorite photos and provides

a convenient place for everything from a deck of cards and coasters
to envelopes and stamps to pocket change and earrings.

proJeCt highlights Start with the box frame

 Overall dimensions: 13" wide ×
91⁄4" deep × 41⁄2" high.
1 To make the corners (A), cut a
3⁄4 × 3⁄4 ×15" blank. Then rout grooves

[ Drawing 1, Step 1], and round over one

 Making the lid and bottom from MDF
avoids wood movement problems. corner [ Step 2 ]. Capture the blank with
Make the entire box from MDF, or use an auxiliary fence to keep it from rotat-
ing when routing the round-over. Use a placing two photos back-to-back between
hardwood cutoffs for the box frame. acrylic panes allows you to display five
pushstick in both steps. Finish-sand the additional photos on the inside of the lid.
Skill Builders blank, and cut the corners to finished
 Learn a foolproof method for mortising
hinges and aligning a box lid. length [ Materials List, page 75]. adjustments, and then rout rabbets
 Boxes make perfect gifts, so we’ll show
you a time-saving way to make
multiple lids. See page 26.
2 For the front and back (B), cut a
1⁄2 ×61⁄4 ×11" blank. For the sides (C)

cut a 1⁄2 ×61⁄4 ×71⁄4" blank. Chuck a 1⁄4"

along both ends of each blank on what
will be the inside faces of the parts
[ Drawings 2 and 3]. Use a follower block
 When it’s time to apply the finish, straight bit into your table-mounted to keep the blanks square to the router-
think outside the box. Try one of the router. Rout a 1⁄8" rabbet 1⁄4" deep along table fence and to prevent chip-out.
decorative finishes shown on page 32. the edge of a 1⁄2"-thick scrap, and test the Now rip two parts from each blank to
fit in the corner (A) grooves. Make any finished width, and finish-sand them.

72 WOOD magazine September 2007

 C
D Q
1 forming the
E corners
R 2 rabbet the front, back, and sides
STEP 1 STEP 1 S STEP 2 STEP 2
F
Fence Fence Fence Fence
G T Fence
‹" ‹" Blanks for B and C
H U Auxiliary fenceAuxiliary fence
Outside ¤"
A A face
V
I
¤" ¤" J W A A
‹"
X
K
Y
L
‹" straight Zbit‹" straight bit fi" round-overfi"
bitround-overRouter
bit ‹" straight bit
Router table Router table M Router table Router table table

¤" round-overs on top face

3 exploded view
‹" rabbet ‹" deep 13"
R=Œ"

3
on bottom face
Glue and clamp two corners (A) G
Photo
each to the front and back (B). With 2 RABBET THE FRONT, BACK, AND SIDES
the glue dry, glue and clamp the sides ‹" round-over
I
MING THE(C)
1 FORMING between
CORNERS the front and back assem-
THE CORNERS H
blies. Check the box frame for square,
and make sure it sits flat. Turnbutton I I
9‹"

4 For the long trim (D) and short trim

(E), cut a 1⁄2 ×2×19" blank. Then rip
four 1⁄4"-wide strips from the edge of the
FILENAME:178PhotoBx2_#100504901.eps
Date: 3-07
I
Filena
Lorna J.
1Œ" R LeM
blank. (You’ll get one part D and one #6 x 1" brass F.H. wood screw 3-12-
part E from each strip.) Finish-sand the 2fi x 1¨" brass hinge
E
strips. Next, using a sharp pencil or a ¤" rabbet ‹" deep #6 x ›" brass F.H. wood screw
marking knife, mark trim lengths to fit
between the corners (A), and cut the C 2fi" mortise ‹" deep
fi"
parts to length. Now glue and clamp the ‹" grooves
AFILENAME:178PhotoBx1_#100504900.eps
178PhotoBx1_#100504900.eps
N
Date: 3-07 trim in place [ Drawing 3 ]. Ease only the AFilename:Filename: 178B Photobox
178 Photobox 1 1 ¤" deep, centered
Lorna J. top edges of the box frame with a sand-
R LeMoine
R LeMoine D
B O
ing block.
‹"
3-12-07 3-12-07
B
C P 3" ¤" rabbets ‹" deep
D E A
D Q Form the feet 10‡" 11" ‡"

1
C
For the feet (F), start with a 1⁄2 ×5×12"
E R blank. (You’ll use an adjustable circle D fi"
3" A
S cutter to make the feet. This size blank 7‹" E
F
allows you to clamp it to the drill-press 7"
G T table without interfering with the circle Adhesive- fi" round-over
cutter.)AThen, backed felt
N to form the ⁄8" chamfers,
1
H U
chuck an adjustable circle cutter into ›"
V F
I your drill
B O press. Orient the cutter and
Shank hole, G
W adjust the Pbeam to cut a 7⁄8"-radius hole countersunk
J C
[ Drawing 4, Step 1]. Now cut 1⁄8" deep into on bottom face F
X Œ"
K D QRepeat three times to form
the blank. #6 x 1" brass F.H.
Y the chamfers on four feet. wood screw ‹" hole ‹" deep

2
L E R ‹" round-over F
Reposition the cutter and adjust the
Z ¤" chamfer
beam S
F to cut a ⁄8"-radius circle [ Draw-
7
M ‹" hole, centered
ing 4, Step 2 ]. Then, with the circle cutter R=Œ"
G T ‹" dowel 1" long trimmed to ‡"
drill bit in the previously drilled center
hole, cut
H the
U feet. To eliminate tear-out,
cut the feetV ⁄8" deep from the top face,
3
I
flip the blank, and complete the cuts 1fi" 2fi" ›"
from theJ bottom
W face. D
A

3 To finish-sand
K
X
roundhead
drel, and
Y
the feet, use a 1⁄4 ×2"
bolt and nut as a man-
3a hinge mortise
detail
B

L spin the feet on your drill press. G

2fi" mortise ‹" deep
To keep theZ edges and bevels crisp, use a E C
sanding M block.
3 EXPLODED VIEW
woodmagazine.com 73
FILENAME:178PhotoBx3_#100504902.eps
Date: 3-07 Filename: 178 Photobox 3
 hinge mortising and lid installation in 6 easy steps
You finished the woodworking part of
making a box. Now it’s time to mount
the hinges. This is where you can get it First hinge
right or mess it up. Using the catchall
box as an example, here’s how to get it
right the first time, every time. (The
photos show an all-MDF box we made Second hinge
for the finishing article on page 32.) Second hinge
First hinge
Center guide
Step 1 Cut two 1⁄2 ×11⁄2 ×10" outer guides. The
width equals the hinge inset from the edge
of the box. The length allows about 11⁄2" Outer guides
overhang at the back of the box for router
support. Adhere the guides and hinges to the
box with double-faced tape. Then measure
the distance between the hinges.
step 1 step 2
Step 2 Cut a 1⁄2 ×10" center guide to the
measured width. Adhere it to the box against
the first hinge, using the second hinge to
ensure that the guides are parallel.

Step 3 Check the guide spacing for the

second hinge.

Step 4 To prevent chip-out, press a fine-tooth

saw against the guides and cut shallow saw Second hinge
kerfs at the corners of each hinge mortise.

Step 5 Chuck a top-bearing mortising bit

Saw kerfs
[Sources, page 75 ] into a handheld router,
and set the routing depth slightly less than
the diameter of the hinge knuckle. Then,
after testing the routing depth in scrap,
rout the hinge mortises. Drill pilot holes,
and screw the hinges in place. (To prevent
twisting off screws in hardwood and splitting step 3 step 4
fiberboard, drill slightly oversize pilot holes.)

Step 6 Draw a rear guideline on the bottom

of the lid 3⁄8" from the back edge (the
dimension the lid overhangs the box frame
all around). Then draw side guidelines 17⁄8"
from each end of the lid (the hinge inset
distance plus the overhang). Now align the
back edge of the box and the hinges with the
guidelines. Using the hinge holes as guides,
drill pilot holes, and drive the screws. Top-bearing
Make sure the lid closes completely without mortising bit Side guidelines
stressing the hinges. If the hinge mortises are Rear
too deep, insert card stock shims under the guideline
hinge leaves.
Center guide Rear guideline

Outer guides

step 5 step 6

Make the lid and bottom cut four 1"-long pieces of 1⁄4" dowel. sides (C) [ Drawing 3]. (For the #6 screws

1 Cut the lid and bottom (G) to size.

Using a foot (F) as a guide, trace a 7⁄8"
Insert 3⁄8" of a dowel into each foot, apply
glue to the protruding length, and tap it
in this project, drill 9⁄64" shank holes and
3⁄ 32" pilot holes.) Drive the screws.

radius on each corner of both parts.

Then bandsaw and sand to the lines.
Now rout a 1⁄4" round-over along the top
in the rest of the way. With the glue dry,
trim off the excess dowel with a fine-
tooth saw, and sand it flush. Now remove
4 To rout the hinge mortises [ Draw-
ings 3 and 3a] and attach the lid (G),
see the sidebar above. Then remove the
edges of both parts. the feet. lid and hinges.

2 Adhere the feet (F) to the bottom

(G) with double-faced tape. Then,
using the holes in the feet as guides, drill
3 Center the bottom (G) on the box
frame (A/B/C/D/E), and clamp it in
place. Drill screw holes through the bot-
5 To turn the lid (G) into a multi-
photo frame, make four photocopies
of the lid half-pattern on page 76. Cut
1⁄4" holes 1⁄4" deep into the bottom. Next tom and into the front and back (B) and and match the patterns, where indi-

74 WOOD magazine September 2007

 Blank for parts F

4 making the feet

STEP 1 STEP 2 (G), aligning the edges of the felt with

the screw holes in the bottom. (Find
adhesive-backed felt in crafts supply
stores.) Then screw the box frame (A/B/
Adjustable circle Adjustable circle C/D/E) in place. Next, guiding a crafts
cutter with cutter
positioned to
cutter with cutter knife along the inside faces of the back
positioned to and front (B) and sides (C), cut through
cut a hole cut a circle
the felt. Now remove the box frame, and
peel away the excess felt. Firmly press
Cutter bevel the remaining felt in place.

3
Cutter bevel faces away
faces center. Screw the bottom (G) to the box
from center.
Chamfer frame. Then glue the feet (F) in
¤" place. Now reinstall the hinges.

4
Œ" Œ"
Screw the turnbuttons into place.
Place one pane (H, I) into each open-
Blank for parts F Blank for parts F ing, and insert two photos back-to-back.
Place the second panes, and secure them
with the turnbuttons. ¿
cated, to make two full patterns. Set one it to the top piece. Jigsaw or scrollsaw
pattern aside and adhere the other pat- and sand the panes to shape. Test-fit the Written by Jan Svec with Jeff Mertz
STEP Project design: Kevin Boyle
tern to2the lid with spray adhesive. Then panes, sanding the edges as needed.
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
drill blade-start holes and jigsaw or
scrollsaw and drum-sand the openings Finish and assemble
to shape. (For a speedy way to make
multiple lids, see page 26.) Adjustable 1
Remove the bottom (G) from the
circle THE FEET
4 MAKING box frame. Inspect all the parts and

6 Chuck a 1⁄4" rabbetcutter

table-mounted router, cut
bit with
intocutter
positioned
anda rout
your finish-sand, where needed. Then apply a
to
circle rab- stain, if desired, and a clear finish to the
bets along the bottom edges of the five box body. (We applied Varathane Tradi-
oval cutouts [ Drawing 3]. Switch to a 1⁄8" tional Cherry no. 445 stain, and two
Cutter bevel bit, and rout round-overs
round-over coats of satin polyurethane, lightly
faces away
along the top edges. Drill pilot holes for sanding with 220-grit sandpaper
from center. Materials List
the turnbutton FILENAME:178PhotoBx4_#100504904.eps
screws where indicated between coats.) For the leather-lookFilename: fin-
Part 178 Photobox T W5 L
FINISHED SIZE
Date: 3-07 Matl. Qty.
on the pattern. Finish-sand
Œ"
Lorna J. the lid. ish on the lid and bottom, and R twoLeMoine
7 To make the large panes (H) and additional decorative finishing options, A* corners 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3" C 4

small panes (I), tape together two see page 32.

3-12-07B* front and back 1⁄2" 3" 11" C 2

2
1⁄8 ×8×10" pieces Blank
of acrylic
for partsface-to-face.
F Lightly adhere a 7 ⁄2 ×11 ⁄4" piece of
1 1 C* sides 1⁄2" 3" 7 ⁄4" 1 C 2
Retrieve the unused pattern and adhere adhesive-backed felt to the bottom D* long trim 1⁄4" 1⁄2" 103⁄4" C 4
E* short trim 1⁄4" 1⁄2" 7" C 4
F* feet 1⁄2" 13⁄4" diam. C 4
Cutting Diagram G lid and bottom 1⁄2" 91⁄4" 13" MDF 2
*F H large panes 1⁄8" 4" 51⁄2" A 2
*B *C
I small panes 1⁄8" 21⁄4" 23⁄4" A 8
*E
*B *C *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
MAKING THE FEET
A A *D Materials key: C–cherry, MDF–medium-density
‡ x 7‹ x 48" Cherry (2.7 bd. ft.) fiberboard, A–acrylic.
*Plane to the thickness listed in the Materials List. Supplies: Double-faced tape, spray adhesive, 1⁄4 ×2"
roundhead bolt and nut for sanding mandrel, 1⁄4"
dowel, 21⁄2×19⁄16" brass hinges (2), #6×3⁄8" and #6×1"
brass flathead wood screws, turnbuttons (20), 71⁄2×111⁄4"
adhesive-backed felt.
Bx4_#100504904.eps Bits: Adjustable circle cutter; 1⁄4" straight, 1⁄8", 1⁄4", and
Filename: 178 Photobox 5 1⁄2" round-over, 3⁄4" top-bearing mortising, and 1⁄4" rabbet

R LeMoine router bits.

3-12-07 Sources
Mortising bit. Freud 3⁄4"-diameter × 3⁄8"-long top-bearing
mortising bit no. 16-510, $19.17. Router Bit World, 800-630-2260,
G G routerbitworld.com.
Mortising-bit alternate. Woodline 3⁄4"-diameter × 7⁄16"-long
I H I dado cleaner no. WL-1011- D, $16. Woodline USA, 800-472-6950,
woodline.com.
Turnbuttons. 13⁄16" brass-plated turnbuttons with screws
¤ x 8 x 10" Clear acrylic no. 6293, $2.49 (pack of 20) or $9.95 (pack of 100). Meisel Hard-
fi x 24 x 30" Medium-density fiberboard (2 needed) ware Specialties, 800-441-9870, meiselwoodhobby.com.

woodmagazine.com 75
 Catchall Box Pattern

The pattern
on this page
accompanies
the project
article on
page 72. You’ll G
need four TOP
photocopies
of this page.
FULL-SIZE
Cut and join HALF-PATTERN
the patterns,
where indicated,
to make two
full patterns.

Centerline

9‹"
¤" round-overs
Join
‹" round-over patterns
here.

‹" rabbets ‹" deep

on bottom face

6fi"

R=Œ"

76
SHOP-TESTED

Parallel-Jaw Clamps
We tested 8 models and found they all do a good job on most glue-ups.
But it’s the subtle differences and features that pinpoint the leaders.

W
oodworkers long for parallel-jaw clamps the way We had to ask:
kids yearn for the latest video game. With steel- Do they really clamp parallel?
reinforced, resin-covered jaws 3" to 4" deep that The ability of the jaws to remain parallel under pressure sepa-
tighten up parallel to each other, beefy steel bars, heavy-duty rates these clamps from other styles. To test this, we clamped
handles and screws, and loads of clamping strength, these equal-length 2×6s on edge in each set of clamps, and then
clamps have gained a reputation for high performance and measured the distance at three places between the jaws: at the
prices that keep hobbyists at a distance. But is that a fair bar, in the center, and at the tip. Of the 24" clamps, six (both
characterization? Besseys, Gross Stabil, Jet, Stanley, and Woodcraft) remained
With three new entries—Harbor Freight, Stanley, and parallel. Harbor Freight and Jorgensen’s CabinetMaster
Woodcraft—joining Bessey, Jorgensen, Gross Stabil, and Jet in deflected 1⁄16".
this category in recent months, and with Bessey modifying its Among the longer 48" and 50" clamps, only the Jorgensen
pioneering K-Body clamp, we decided to sort them out in a remained parallel. Most clamps deflected 1⁄16"; Woodcraft’s
head-to-head test. (Woodcraft manufactures its clamps under clamp was off by 1⁄8".
license from Bessey, so they closely resemble the K-Body. So what to make of it? We also tested a few other types of
Bessey now offers two types of handles: the traditional wood clamps (one-handed bar clamps, pipe clamps, and aluminum
and a new rubber-inlaid plastic.) For each make, we tested 24" bar clamps) and found their jaws canted more than the paral-
models and either a 48" or 50" version. lel-clamp jaws. Given the deep jaws of the parallel clamps—all

78 WOOD magazine September 2007

 Meet the Clamps
Bessey (synthetic and wood handles)
24”, $32; 50”, $40
800-828-1004
at least 33⁄8"—we found 1⁄16" of deflection besseytools.com
to be acceptable. That did not affect a Squaring Block
glue-up where the full length of the jaw Extender
made contact with the assembly.

Some sliding jaws work

the bar better than others
All of the clamps have a fixed jaw at one Gross Stabil
end of the bar and a sliding jaw that 24”, $29; 48”, $39
800-828-1004
travels along the bar. On all models
grossstabilclamps.com
except Jet, that jaw often slides uncon-
trollably down the bar, crashing into the
fixed jaw when held vertically. Jet’s
“lockable” jaw fixes and releases with a
finger-trigger below the handle, as
shown below. This system engages the
bar reliably, with no backsliding when Harbor Freight
tightening the jaw. 24”, $30; 36”, $35
Stanley’s jaw fits its I-beam bar so well, 800-423-2567
harborfreight.com
it tightens without fail—second only to
the Jet—yet slides smoothly when you
want to move it. Jorgensen’s smooth
bar—all the others have small serrations
perpendicular to the bar—resulted in
Movable End Stop
the jaw backsliding about half the time
when we tightened the handle. Gross
Stabil’s jaw has an additional brace that Jet
wraps around the bar and tracks behind 24”, $35; 50”, $47
the jaw fixture. This provides better 800-274-6848
leverage for tightening, but proves diffi- jettools.com
cult to slide along the bar.
Half of the clamps (Harbor Freight, Bench Dog
Squaring Block
Woodcraft, and both Besseys) use set
screws to engage the serrations on the
top and bottom of the bar while you
tighten the handle. However, all four
crept backward more than half the time
Jorgensen CabinetMaster
as we applied force to the assembly. 24”, $33; 48”, $40
Movable End Stop
312-666-0640
adjustableclamp.com

Stanley
24”, $34; 48”, $42
800-782-6539
stanleytools.com

Lift on Jet’s trigger to disengage the clutch and

slide the head; release, and it locks into the Woodcraft
serrations on top of the bar. 24”, $28; 50”,$40
800-225-1153
woodcraft.com
woodmagazine.com 79
 From this test, we concluded two things. First, although the
rankings ran pretty true from person to person, the amount of
force generated dropped off noticeably for the older testers,
two of whom are older than 60 and have arthritic hands. So
while someone might be able to achieve results similar to ours
with any of the clamps at a younger age, as they grow older,
they likely won’t be able to crank them as tightly as before. In
that case, a clamp with more power capability might be best.
The second thing we learned in testing was that all the
clamps create more than enough force for most glue-ups. Dale
Zimmerman of Franklin International (maker of Titebond
glues) says that 100 pounds of force proves adequate to pull
together a well-machined glue joint.
Rarely do we need more than moderate clamping force to
secure a project, but occasionally we do need oodles of force.
Cold-bending wide, laminated workpieces around a form, for
example, requires more force, and the deep jaws of a parallel
clamp excel here.

Unique features add

the hydraulic ram never lies distinction among the clamps
We tested each 24" clamp to find its maximum clamping strength, ■ Jet’s printed scale on the side of its bar allows you to preset
then converted those PSI ratings to pounds of force. the jaw opening more precisely to avoid that “Oh, nuts!”
moment when you try to put a glued-up assembly into a too-
Crank up the clamping power— small opening.
but only when you need it ■ End stops on the Jet and Jorgensen clamps (shown on previ-
Despite the advantages some clamps have over others in ous page) move anywhere along the bar. We found this helpful
engaging the bar, ultimately they all were able to pull together when the bar was longer than our worksurface. Just slide the
everything we tried in our tests. So we staged a “strongest end stop to a spot where it will rest on the bench, and the bar
clamp” competition to sort out the pecking order. Using a can extend beyond. This keeps the sliding jaw from dragging
small hydraulic ram with a dial gauge, we had 15 woodworkers on your benchtop. They also serve as stops for repositioning
of varying ages max out each clamp, as shown above. We mul- the sliding jaw for multiple glue-ups of similar dimensions.
tiplied the pounds-per-square-inch (PSI) readings by the
surface area of the ram (1.08") to find the pounds of force.
Then we averaged the results, as shown in the chart below. HOW OTHER CLAMPS COMPARE FOR FORCE
Stanley’s clamp overwhelmingly ruled the strength show- 2,050 lbs
down, due in large part to its triangular-shaped rubber and
2,000
plastic handle that was the largest (in diameter) among the
To put the clamping force
test group. But large handles did not always equate to strength, of parallel-jaw clamps into
as Jet, with the second-largest handle, delivered the lowest perspective, we also tested
average force. Meanwhile, Harbor Freight finished second- these common workshop
best, outdistancing the Bessey and Woodcraft models, with clamps for maximum force.
Maximum pounds of force

similar bar configurations. 1,500

COMPARISON OF MAXIMUM CLAMPING FORCE

1,200
Average maximum clamping force applied by 15 woodworkers.
1,071 lbs 1,080 lbs
1,000
1,000
Maximum pounds of force

914 lbs

806 lbs
800
762 lbs

669 lbs 582 lbs

579 lbs 603 lbs
600
552 lbs
500
496 lbs

400

139 lbs
200

0
0 Irwin Jorgensen Bessey Jorgensen Jorgensen
Jet Bessey Bessey Woodcraft Gross Jorgensen Harbor Stanley Quick Grip handscrew Tradesman aluminum pipe clamp
synthetic handle wood handle Stabil Freight steel bar clamp bar clamp

80 WOOD magazine September 2007

 Don’t stain your wood
■ The Bessey and Jet models offer plastic squaring blocks as until you intend to
options with single clamps, but are included with four-clamp
kits. The blocks enable you to crisscross clamps exactly 90° to
each other and can be secured to a worksurface with screws.
These come in handy when clamping carcases, frames, or doors
that need to be square. (Woodcraft’s Peter Collins said the com-
pany will have squaring blocks by early fall 2007.)
■ Jet offers bench dogs as accessories that thread into the
underside of the fixed jaw and end stop so you can anchor them
to your benchtop’s dog holes.
■ Bessey’s optional extender allows you to couple two clamps
end to end, using the fixed jaw on one, and the sliding jaw
reversed as a spreader on the other. Jorgensen’s polished steel bar proved resistant to staining
wood (top) when it contacted yellow glue. Conversely,
We say buy the clamp that Stanley’s black steel bar made stains that penetrated the
gives you more bang for the buck wood surface (bottom) and had to be removed with a
Without huge differences in price or performance, we’d buy the planer. The other clamps stained the wood to lesser
clamps that are most user-friendly. Jet’s parallel clamps—our degrees but could be sanded away.
choice for Top Tool—have large jaws, large handles, trigger-
activated clutches, sturdy bars with scales in inches, movable
end stops, and optional squaring blocks and bench dogs. Jet
clamps are heavier than most and came out on the low end for Irwin launches new parallel clamps
clamping force, but still proved adequate for every clamping Irwin Industrial Tools,
chore we tried. maker of Quick Grip one-
You can save money and still get great performance with the hand bar clamps, released
a line of parallel clamps
Woodcraft clamps, our Top Value. With a $7 difference per
just as we were putting
clamp for both 24” and 50” models, you get five Woodcraft 24” the finishing touches on
clamps for the price of four similar Jet clamps. ¿ this article. Irwin’s Melissa
Gambrill said they have
Written by Bob Hunter with Randy Zimmerman
Illustrations by Tim Cahill; Lorna Johnson
24” ($35) and 48” ($40) models. Because of the timing,
we were not able to test them for this issue.

THE STRAIGHT AND NARROW ON PARALLEL-JAW CLAMPS

JAWS HANDLE PERFORMANCE RATINGS ACCESSORIES WEIGHT, POUNDS SELLING
(2) (3) (4) PRICE (8)
BARS
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24” C

50” C

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JAW

BESSEY K-BODY (WOOD HANDLE) 3⁄8 × 1 1⁄8 3 3⁄8 1 7⁄16 1 3⁄16 4 3⁄8 × 1 1⁄8 W A- B C C B- B*,E 5.3 7.1 U L $32 $40
BESSEY K-BODY (SYNTHETIC HANDLE) 3⁄8 × 1 1⁄8 3 3⁄8 1 7⁄16 1 5⁄16 5 1⁄8 × 1 5⁄16 C A- B A C B- B*,E 5.6 7.4 U L $32 $40
GROSS STABIL PC2 3⁄8 × 1 1⁄8 3 5⁄8 1 3⁄4 1 13⁄16 4 3⁄4 × 1 3⁄16 W A- C+ B- C C+ J 5.1 8.6* G L $29 $39*
HARBOR FREIGHT 3⁄8 × 1 1⁄8 3 3⁄8 1 7⁄16 1 3⁄8 4 3⁄8 × 1 1⁄8 A B C B C C 5.6 6.8** I 30 DAYS $30 $35**
JET 3⁄8 × 1 1⁄8 4 3⁄16 1 13⁄16 1 11⁄16 5 × 1 1⁄2 C A A A B B- S B*,D* 6.7 9.0 C L $35 $47
JORGENSEN CABINETMASTER 3⁄8 × 1 3⁄16 4 1 7⁄8 1 13⁄16 4 9⁄16 × 1 3⁄8 W A B B+ B+ A S 6.1 9.4* U 1 $33 $40*
STANLEY 3⁄8 × 1 3⁄16 3 11⁄16 1 13⁄16 1 5⁄8 4 7⁄8 × 1 11⁄16 C A- C A B D 6.3 8.7* C L $34 $42*
WOODCRAFT 3⁄8 × 1 1⁄8 3 3⁄8 1 7⁄16 1 1⁄4 4 3⁄8 × 1 1⁄8 A B+ C B- C B B 4.1 7.4 I 1 $28 $40
1. (A) Aluminum 3. (B) Squaring blocks 5. (*) 48”-long clamp 7. (L) Lifetime
(C) Combination: plastic and rubber (D) Bench dogs (**) 36” clamp is longest made
(W) Wood (E) Clamp extenders by Harbor Freight 8. Prices current at time of article production
(J) Replaceable jaw pads and do not include shipping where
2. A Excellent (S) Movable end stop 6. (C) China applicable. Prices are for single clamps;
B Good (*) Included with multiple-clamp kits. (G) Germany some retailers offer quantity discounts.
C Fair (I) India
D Poor 4. Average of four clamps (U) United States

woodmagazine.com 81
 Indoor & Outdoor
Bistro Stool View a slide show of six
additional Bistro Stool
assembly photos at
woodmagazine.com/slides.

Bistro Table
This project perfectly
complements the outdoor
Bistro Table featured in the
previous issue (July 2007).
The stools employ the same
simple construction as the
table, so you can knock out
a set in a weekend.

8282 WOOD
WOOD magazine
magazine XXXX 2007
September 2007
 E
1 EXPLODED VIEW F G
F
E
Countersunk
2" rabbet shank hole ‡" dadoes ›" deep
‡" deep
11‹"
2" B #8 x 1fi" S.S.
F.H. wood screw
C

B
A C
1‹"

A #8 x 1" S.S. 1¤"

F.H. wood screw
2" dado 1"
‡" deep Countersunk 10fi"
shank hole
D A

2" 24fi"
B
D
D C 2" A
6fi" ¤ x 1 x 10fi" D
1fi" aluminum bar
C B
#8 x 1‹" S.S.
¤" V-groove F.H. wood screw
13fi"
‹"

PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS
 Overall dimensions are 153⁄8" square
× 251⁄ 4" high.
 Readily available project materials give ¤" chamfer
you the convenience of one-stop
shopping at your local home center.
 Simple joinery and repetitive cuts
mean you can pick up materials on mounted router, and position the fence the fence, and use the same bit to rout
Saturday morning and have four stools as a stop, 11⁄2" from the bit center. Then 1⁄8"
chamfers along the bottom end of
ready to finish by Sunday afternoon. using a follower block to keep the leg each leg. Finish-sand the legs.

4
 For the board feet of lumber and other square to the fence and prevent chip- Cut the end rails (B) and side rails
items needed to build one stool, see
out, rout the grooves. Now reposition (C) to size. With a dado blade in
page 85.

Skill Builder
 Learn an easy way to form a row of Cedar vs. white oak: You decide
closely spaced mortises by1 EXPLODED
cutting a VIEWWe made our stools from cedar to match
groove and using fillers. the bistro table in the previous issue. But
because white oak is a good alternative for
outdoor use, we made the stool at right in
Build the base this harder, heavier species. Here are some

1 For the legs (A), cut two 25"-long points to ponder when choosing between
pieces of 2×4. (We used cedar.) Then cedar and white oak for your stools.
 Weatherability: A draw; both are
joint one edge of each 2×4 square, and Filename: 177
rated as resistant or very resistant to decay.
bistorchair 3
FILENAME: 178BistroChr1_#100504864.eps
cut fourDate:
11⁄2"-wide
2-07 leg blanks. Trim the  Durability: When it comes R LeMoine
to dent
legs to Lorna
finished
J. length [ Materials List, resistance and screw-holding 10-20-06
ability, white
page 85]. oak wins. If you make your bistro stool
Note: For interior use, make the stool from from white oak, eliminate the aluminum
the wood species of your choice. For an alter- rail cap protectors as shown at right.
nate material suggestion for exterior use, see  Cost: Cedar has the edge here. And
the sidebar at right. you’ll find it at your local home center or

2 With a dado blade in your tablesaw, lumberyard. You’ll have to purchase white
cut a 2" dado 3⁄4" deep and a 2" rabbet oak from a hardwood dealer.
3⁄4" deep in each leg (A) [ Drawing 1].  Weight: The cedar bistro stool weighs
in at 7 1⁄4 lbs; white oak at 15 1⁄2 lbs. While
3 To form the decorative grooves near
the bottom of each leg (A) [ Drawing
1], chuck a V-groove bit into your table-
this makes the cedar stool easier to move,
the white oak stool would be less likely to
tip over in the wind.

woodmagazine.com 83
ASSEMBLE THE BASE DRY-FIT THE FILLERS
2/" -wide
spacer
B
C A
C A

H
C B

B C 1/" -wide
A spacers
C F

A H
B
#8×1
#8×1/" stainless
steel F.H. wood screw 2/" -wide
B spacer
A B C
Glue and clamp the side rails (C) into the end Glue and clamp the frame (B/C) end rails (B) Starting with a 2fi"-wide spacer at one end
rail (B) dadoes. Check for square, drill pilot into the leg (A) dadoes and rabbets. Drill pilot of the seat end rail (F) groove, alternately
holes, and drive the screws. holes, and screw the legs in place. insert fillers (H) and 1fl"-wide spacers.

your tablesaw, cut 3⁄4" dadoes 3⁄8" deep Make the seat sand slight chamfers on the ends of the
near each end of the end rails [ Drawing
2 ]. Then drill the countersunk shank
holes. (For the #8 screws in this project,
1 Cut the seat side rails (E), seat end
rails (F), and slats (G) to size. Then
to position the fillers (H) in the end rail
side rail and slat tenons.

4 To make the fillers (H), rip a 1⁄4"-wide

strip from the edge of a 3⁄4"-thick
drill 5⁄32" shank holes and when using grooves later, cut a 2×16" strip of 1⁄4" board 12" long. Then cut 12 fillers 3⁄8"
softwood, 3⁄32" pilot holes. For hardwood, hardboard. Next, from this strip, cut long from the strip.
drill 7⁄64" pilot holes.) five spacers 15⁄8" wide and two spacers Note: The grain on the fillers runs across

5 Lay out the end- and centerpoints of

the arches on the end rails (B) and
side rails (C) [ Drawings 1 and 2 ]. Con-
21⁄2" wide. Now, to indicate proper spacer
orientation, sand chamfers on two cor-
ners of each one [ Drawing 3].
the 3⁄8" dimension.

5 Retrieve the hardboard spacers.

Then, starting and ending with a
nect the points with a fairing stick, and
draw the arch. (For a free downloadable
fairing-stick plan, go to woodmagazine.
2 On your tablesaw, cut centered
grooves in the inside edges of the
seat end rails (F) [ Drawing 4 ].
21⁄2"-wide spacer, dry-fit 6 fillers (H) in a
seat end rail (F) groove [ Photo C]. The
edges of the 21⁄2"-wide spacers should be
com/fairing.) Bandsaw and sand the
arches. Finish-sand the rails. 3 With a dado blade in your tablesaw,
form tenons on the ends of the seat
flush with the ends of the rail. Adjust
the filler spacing as necessary, and glue

6 Assemble the two frames (B/C) and

add the legs (A) to form the base
[ Photos A and B ]. Then cut the rail caps
side rails (E) and slats (G) [ Drawing 4 ].
Check the tenons for a snug fit in the 1⁄4"
grooves. Then chuck a chamfer bit into
the fillers into the groove. Remove the
spacers before the glue sets. Repeat with
the remaining end rail. Finish-sand the
(D) to size, and glue and clamp them to your handheld router, and rout 1⁄16" seat side rails (E), seat end rails (F), and
the bottom end rails (B) and side rails chamfers along the ends and edges of slats (G). Assemble the seat [ Photo D ].
(C), flush at the inside edges [ Drawing 1].
(Use polyurethane glue or an exterior-
grade wood glue, such as Titebond II or
the seat end rails (F) and the edges of the
seat side rails and slats. Now use a sand-
ing block to chamfer all of the tenon
6 Apply glue to the top edges of the
upper end rails (B) and side rails (C).
Center the seat on the base, and clamp it
Titebond III.) shoulder edges. To ease assembly later, in place.

ASSEMBLE THE SEAT ADD CAP PROTECTORS

E
#8x1" stainless steel
F.H. wood screw

G
F F

D
E /x1x10/"
aluminum bar
D E
Glue and clamp the seat side rail (E) and slat (G) tenons into the end rail Position the ¤×1×10fi" aluminum bars on the rail caps (D), flush
(F) mortises. Check for square, and let the glue dry. with the edges. Drill pilot holes, and drive the screws.

84
 SHOP TIP
Apply the finish An easy way to seal outdoor furniture leg end grain

1 Inspect the stool, and finish-sand, For long-lasting outdoor projects, container, as shown below left. Then
where needed. Apply an exterior always seal exposed end grain, pour finish in each container, as shown
especially the bottom ends of legs. below. After a few hours, the grain will
finish. (We applied two coats of Cabot
Here’s a hassle-free way to do this. be saturated. Now turn the furniture
translucent exterior stain no. 3002 Place each leg in a shallow container, upside down, wipe away any excess
Cedar.) Double-coat all exposed end raising the leg off the bottom of the finish, and let it dry.
grain. To seal the bottom ends of the
legs, see the Shop Tip at right.

2 To protect the rail caps (D) from foot

wear, cut four 101⁄2"-long pieces of
1⁄8 ×1" aluminum bar. Drill two counter-

sunk shank holes in each one [ Drawing

1]. To remove any marks or scratches To ensure
and give the aluminum bars a uniform finish
satin appearance, sand them with 320- penetration,
grit sandpaper. (We used a 3M Sand- place a
blaster sanding sponge.) Then fasten dowel under
each leg.
them to the rail caps [ Photo E ]. Carry the
A stools
N out to the deck. (You made four,
didn’t you?) Arrange them around the
O
B bistro table, gather three friends, and
C P up some cold drinks. ¿
serve

D Q

E 2R END RAIL Inside face shown) 3 SPACERS

S
F 13fi"
‡" 2" 2"
G T 1fl" 2fi"
Countersunk
H U 1‹" B shank hole
2"
V ‹" ¤" chamfers
I Countersunk ¤" chamfers
‡" dado ›" deep shank hole ‹"
J W 2‹" on inside face on outside face
X
K 2fi"
A YN 4 SEAT
L
Z 15›"
MB O ‹" grooves ‡" deep,
P centered
C E F
G
D Materials
Q List (for one stool) G
G
FINISHED SIZE
R
E Base T W L Matl. Qty. G
A* S legs 1fi" 1fi" 24fi" C 4 G
F „"
B end rails ‡" 2" 13fi" C 4 2fi"
G T chamfers
C side
2 END rails
RAIL ‡" 2" 11‹" C 4
11Œ" E
(Inside
H D face shown)
U rail caps ‡" 1" 10fi" C 4 3 SPACERS F
N Seat
V ›"
I 1fl"
E seat side rails ‡" 2fi" 11Œ" C 2 ‡"
O J W 11Œ"
F seat end rails ‡" 2fi" 15›" C 2
Filename: 177 bistorchair 1
P X H
K G slats ‡" 1fl" 11Œ" C 5
Filename:
Note: To177 bistorchair 1
ease assembly, R LeMoine
H*Y fillers C FILENAME: 178BistroChr3_#100504866.eps
‡" rabbets 10-20-06
‹" ‡" ›" 12 sand slight chamfers on the
Q L R LeMoine
Date: 2-07ends of
E and G tenons.
*Parts
Z initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
178BistroChr2_#100504865.eps „" chamfers ‹" deep ‡"
R M 10-20-06
Lorna J.

S Material key: C–cedar.

Supplies: #8×1", #8×11⁄4", and #8×11⁄2" stainless steel Cutting Diagram
flathead wood screws; 1⁄8×1" aluminum bar.
T A A
Blade and bits: Stack dado set, V-groove and 45°
U chamfer router bits. 1fi x 3fi x 60" Cedar (2x4)
H
V G
C C G
Written by Jan Svec with Erv Roberts B D E F G
W Project design: Kevin Boyle B
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
X ‡ x 7‹ x 96" Cedar (1x8)

Y woodmagazine.com 85
4 SEAT
Z
SHOP-TESTED

12" Mitersaws
If you’re looking for a mitersaw for your workshop, make it a compound
mitersaw and make it a big one. We’ll help you decide which one to buy.

S
ome woodworkers perceive miter- also found a few that just can’t shake the page]. However, the 45° stops on the
saws like a shabby brother-in-law: bad rap. Before you buy, read on to see Craftsman 21205 and Ridgid MS1250LZ
crude, unpredictable, well suited which saws can cut it. both produced joints with gaps even
for only a few unglamorous jobs, and after we calibrated them for square cuts
reliably unreliable. To learn whether Accuracy starts with at 90° by adjusting the fence and saw
that reputation is deserved, we gathered reliable miter scales head according to their manuals. Nei-
up seven 12" compound mitersaws Would you settle for a bank that ther saw provides a way to adjust any of
(CMS) to test them not only in a head- managed your money “pretty close to the preset stops without changing the
to-head showdown, but also in a search accurate”? No way! Likewise, you should 90° setting as well.
for a mitersaw accurate enough for expect your mitersaw’s scales to be trust- Although the stops prove helpful in
woodworking. worthy. To test the accuracy of the saws’ most cases, occasionally you might need
The good news: Most of today’s miter- miter scales and stops, we cut 10"-square, to make a cut just a half-degree off the
saws have outgrown their construction mitered frames in 4"-wide stock, clamped miter-stop setting (441 ⁄ 2°, for example).
roots, still able to crosscut wood in a them, and then checked for gaps in the Bosch’s 3912 and DeWalt’s DW715 fea-
variety of angles, yes, but also precise joints. Most of the saws proved dead-on ture detent overrides you can use to
enough for cutting components for pic- accurate right out of the box or after keep them from slipping into these
ture frames, cabinets, and furniture. We some minor calibration [ Photo 1 on next stops. These two saws also feature ver-

86 WOOD magazine September 2007

1 2 3

1 If the stops prove inaccurate, make test cuts

until you find the accurate settings, and then
loosen the screws and rotate the scale to the new
location.
2 To use a vernier scale align a fraction mark (in
red) to its nearest whole-number mark (in black).
This scale shows a 3 1⁄2° angle.
3 When using Ridgid’s miter scale cursor, the 1⁄2°
markings are blocked by the end of the orange
throat-plate insert.
4 You push DeWalt’s cam-style handle down to
lock it, and then lift to unlock. The detent override
lets you bypass the molded stops.
Detent 5 Rely on Hitachi’s digital angle finder for miters
override and bevels. It proved reliable at finding any angle
4 5 accurately to within 1⁄2°.

nier scales [ Photo 2 ], enabling you to nudge a close setting to perfection. prefer the stops on the DeWalt, Hitachi,
dial in a cut to within 1 ⁄4° anywhere on Hitachi’s C12LCH championed the and Ridgid that can be moved aside tem-
the miter scale. Use a vernier scale by bevel testing, with its digital readout porarily for larger bevels, but instantly
lining up a fractional mark on the cur- [ Photo 5 ] proving dead-on (within 1 ⁄ 2°) returned without recalibrating.
sor with the nearest whole-number with no need for adjustment. Still, with Bosch, DeWalt, and Ridgid have detent
mark on the scale. For example, if you that edge in technology, we’d like to see settings for 33.9°. This angle, when cou-
want 31 ⁄ 2°, you line up the two 1 ⁄ 2° marks it accurate to within 1 ⁄10°, but Hitachi has pled with a miter setting of 31.62° (a
with 2° and 5°, as shown above. no current plans to take it that far, said stop on all but the Ryobi), allows you to
Ridgid’s MS1250LZ almost got points John Fries, associate product manager make compound cuts on crown mold-
for having its entire miter scale marked for woodworking tools at Hitachi. The ing with it lying flat on the saw table.
in half- and whole-degree increments, C12LCH also has a fine-adjustment, Because we prefer to cut crown molding
but it’s almost impossible to use because rack-and-pinion knob on the bevel lock in its spring-angle position leaning
you can’t see the half-degree marks that allows you to easily zero it in. against the fence—see issue 174 (Decem-
inside the cursor window [ Photo 3]. No All the saws have bevel stops at 45°, but ber/January 2006/2007), pages 48–50,
points. DeWalt earns favor with its cam- those on the Bosch, Craftsman, Makita or woodmagazine.com/crown for tech-
style miter lock [ Photo 4 ]. The other LS1221, and Ryobi TS1552DXL must be niques on cutting and assembling
models feature screw-type threaded moved to go beyond 45°. Then you have crown—we wouldn’t make these stops
locks that sometimes nudged the miter to recalibrate them to get back to 45°. We part of our buying decision.
setting when tightened.

Bevel angles continue to

befuddle on most saws Why a 12" mitersaw fits woodworkers best
The ability to cut bevels (by tilting the
cutting angle of the blade) separates a How do you know if you need a 10" or 12" model? A 12" single-bevel CMS—with a
compound mitersaw from a regular head that tilts only to the left—will handle most woodworking applications in addition
mitersaw. But setting bevels on most to all the projects around your home. Its 8"-ish crosscut capacity (see the chart on
saws, frankly, can be hit or miss. Mark- pages 90-91 for specifics) is about 2–3" greater than a 10" CMS, and covers the vast
majority of your crosscutting chores. Although a 12" CMS typically costs $50–$100
ings tend to be tiny, closely spaced, and
more than a 10" model (and a replacement blade will set you back $25–$50 more),
located far back on the saw, making you can get one for as little as $200.
them difficult to read reliably. Plus, most If it’s pure capacity you seek, a sliding compound mitersaw (SCMS) does provide
bevel locks require a reach-around to 4–6" greater crosscut capacity than a nonsliding CMS. It also costs nearly twice as
the back of the saw, and the weight of much, weighs 20–30 pounds more, and takes up more room on your workbench.
the saw makes it nearly impossible to

woodmagazine.com 87
 6 7

8 9

6 The dust-collection chute blocks Hitachi’s laser as you lower the saw for a cut, so you might 8 & 9 Craftsman’s handle can be locked in
have to line up your cut at full height. at vertical and horizontal positions, and five
stops in between. We preferred the vertical
7 We could close the kerf opening on Makita’s adjustable throat plate to make it a zero- position when making bevel cuts, and the
clearance insert. horizontal for no-bevel miters.

Lasers should do more the blade—but the blade cuts on the The result: nearly flawless cuts with no
than dazzle you line. We could not get Ridgid’s laser scoring and almost no tear-out. The
Four of the tested saws (Craftsman, Hita- closer than 1⁄16" to the left of the blade. only blight—and this happened on
chi, Ridgid, and Ryobi) sport a recent (Ridgid and Ryobi said they will include each saw—was a slight gap in the center
craze in power tools: a laser line that’s adjustable lasers on all their mitersaws of the cut, which we attributed to blade
supposed to show you where the saw by midsummer 2007.) Craftsman’s laser deflection. Pulling 15 amps apiece,
will cut. So, if you’re going to have a would go no closer than 1⁄8". each saw handled our tests without
laser on a power tool, it should be accu- stalling or bogging down, even when
rate, right? Take a bow, Hitachi and A quality blade greatly we tested with the factory blades.
Ryobi. They proved dead-on accurate: improves any saw
Simply align the laser on your mark so All of the tested mitersaws come with Buying considerations
the blade will cut on the waste side of carbide-tooth blades better suited for that make a difference
the line. Hitachi’s laser [ Photo 6 ], construction than woodworking. Using • Throat-plate woes
mounted just below the dust-collection each saw’s factory blade, we cut 6"-wide, Three saws (Bosch, Craftsman, and
tube behind the blade, can be set to 11⁄2"-thick hard maple with each, and Ridgid) come with a blank throat insert,
shine on either side of the blade. then marked the ends with chalk. All of allowing you to make it zero-clearance
Craftsman, Ridgid, and Ryobi feature the saws left noticeable scoring marks as when you plunge your spinning blade
nonadjustable disc-style lasers built into well as significant tear-out. through it. We like this feature because
the arbor flange. Because the laser can’t So, to get a true reading for power it reduces tear-out and keeps small cut-
lie flat on the blade body, it must angle and cut quality, we equipped each offs from falling through. Makita [ Photo
to shoot for the edge of the blade. For mitersaw with a new 96-tooth, thin- 7] and Hitachi have adjustable throat
this reason, Ryobi’s laser line begins on kerf, Freud crosscut blade (LU74R012, plates that close up, although Hitachi’s
your mark at full height, then moves Freud’s recommendation for crosscut- only closes to 3⁄8". DeWalt and Ryobi do
from right to left about 1⁄16" as you lower ting hardwoods) and repeated our tests. not offer adjustable throat plates.

88 WOOD magazine September 2007

• Get a grip • Thumbs up ing tube closer to the blade, but it’s only
Craftsman’s saw features an adjustable Bosch, Makita, and Ridgid feature safety slightly better. We hooked up a shop
D-style handle [ Photos 8 and 9 ] that can switches that you must press with your vacuum to each saw and made cuts, and
be rotated 90° from horizontal to thumb before activating the saw with noticed improved dust collection
vertical in seven positions. We like this the trigger. Bosch’s switch is accessible (although still leaving about one-third
flexibility, especially when cutting at on both the left and right sides, so it’s of the debris on the saw and bench and
large bevel angles. We found no defini- convenient for right- and left-handers. in the air).
tive advantage to any position; it’s • Poor dust collection • Awkward extensions
primarily a comfort issue for you to find While nearly all other power tools have It’s always helpful to have extension
your favorite position. added effective dust control methods, wings that support long workpieces, but
• More than just a pretty fence mitersaws continue to struggle with this. only four saws (Craftsman, DeWalt,
All the mitersaws feature fences 41 ⁄2" or However, we’re not beating up the Makita, and Ryobi) include them as
taller near the blade for firm resistance manufacturers over this because the standard equipment. And, only Makita
to the cutting action and torque of the structure of a mitersaw makes dust col- makes this feature quick to remove (via
blade. Makita’s and Hitachi’s fences lection inherently difficult. All seven thumbscrews) for transport. DeWalt has
pivot away from the blade to the end of models come with a dust bag, but none two Phillips-head setscrews you need to
the fence to make room for the saw head does a favorable job of gathering dust loosen first. Craftsman and Ryobi
on bevel cuts. The others slide away and chips. Craftsman gets a nod for require you to flip the saw and remove
from the blade. equipping its saw with a rubber gather- screws and brackets from underneath.

An in-depth look at the 7 mitersaws in our test

Bosch 3912, $310 877-267-2499, boschtools.com
High points
d One of two saws with a detent override; this feature allows you to position the saw close to the
miter stops without slipping into them.
d The 45° miter stops proved dead-on right out of the box in our 8-miter frame test.
d Its vernier scale helps you pinpoint a miter position accurate to within 1⁄4°.
d Dual safety switches on the right and left sides make it convenient for you no matter which hand
you use to operate the saw.
Low points
f The bevel stop system won’t allow angles beyond 45° without resetting the stop. You have to
recalibrate it to establish the 45° stop again.
f Miter adjustments were stiff though manageable.
More points
g The hold-down clamp features a quick-release lever; however, it gets in the way when not in use.

Craftsman 21205, $260 800-383-4814, craftsman.com

High points
d This saw features a bevel scale and cursor on each side of the head, allowing you to always see
one of them clearly.
d The handle rotates from a horizontal to pistol grip, the only saw in the test with this feature.
d Extension wings add 20" of support to both sides of the table. And the cutoff stop fits on the
wings from 11" to 18" from the blade.
d The hold-down clamp also works on the extension wings.
Low points
f The bevel stop system won’t allow angles beyond 45° without resetting the stop. You have to
recalibrate it to establish the 45° stop again.
f The 45° miter stops proved inaccurate even after we calibrated the 90° stop dead-on.
f The fence was not square to the table and had to be shimmed.
f The laser shines 1⁄8" from the cutline, making it tough to rely on it for accuracy.

DeWalt DW715, $330 800-433-9258, dewalt.com

High points
d Adjustable miter scale and cursor allowed us to dial this saw in for dead-on accuracy.
d One of two saws with a detent override; this feature allows you to position the saw close to the
miter stops without slipping into them.
d Its vernier scale helps you pinpoint a miter position accurate to within 1⁄4°.
d The cam-style miter lock proved superior to the screw-style locks of other models.
d Its 61⁄4" vertical cutting capacity at the fence topped the test.
Low points
f Sawdust buildup makes bevel-scale markings difficult to read.
More points
g The bevel stop allows for angles beyond 45° without recalibrating the setting, but requires a
screwdriver to loosen the stop.
g You get 28" of support from the blade with a single extension wing, but you have to use a Phillips
screwdriver to loosen the setscrews.
 Hitachi C12LCH, $330 800-829-4752, hitachipowertools.com
High points
d This is the only saw with digital miter and bevel scales, which proved reliably accurate.
d A fine-adjustment knob makes sneaking up on bevel angles easy and precise.
d The single, adjustable laser proved accurate.
Low points
f We found a slight sloppiness in the miter stops, and the 45° stops proved inaccurate in our
8-miter frame test. (We relied on the digital readout for accuracy.)
f When depressed, the detent lever rubs the table as you change the miter angle.
More points
g Shim brackets allow you to set bevel angles beyond 45°.
g Hitachi makes this same saw without the digital readout but still with the laser (model C12FCH)
for $280.

Makita LS1221, $295 800-462-5482, makitatools.com

High points
d The 45° miter stops proved dead-on right out of the box in our 8-miter frame test.
d This saw had the smoothest miter and bevel adjustments in the test.
d It was the only saw without annoying “throw” (upward and downward lurching) at motor start-
up and stop.
d Extension wings support workpieces 19" from each side of the blade and tighten with
thumbscrews.
Low points
f The bevel stop system won’t allow angles beyond 45° without resetting the stop. You have to
recalibrate it to establish the 45° stop again.
f The blade guard would not stay retracted when changing blades, making it more difficult.

Accuracy, ease of use throat insert, and a hold-down clamp.

pinpoint a winner DeWalt has a cam-style miter lock, a
Although several of the mitersaws per- retractable bevel stop with two set- MOTOR
formed well enough to cut it in the tings, and one extension wing.
WOOD® magazine shop, two stood out The Ryobi TS1552DXL earns Top

(2)
for unique features that we really like: Value honor in this test, not just for its

ES
TEE TH

EG R E
the Bosch 3912 and the DeWalt low price, but also because it cuts accu-

# OF

DE , D
DW715. They share Top Tool honors. rately and includes several features we PM)

AD E ,
Both saws offer similar cutting capaci- like (extension wings, cutoff stop,
ED (R

CH SI
E (1)

(3)
accurate laser). ¿
R Y BL
T Y PE
ties as well as a detent override and a
R SIZ
E S PE

E, E A
D

1⁄4° vernier miter scale. Bosch also has a

L A SER
FACTO
AR B O
MO D E
BR AN

R AN G
BL AD

dual safety switch, a zero-clearance Written by Bob Hunter with Jeff Hall
BOSCH 3912 4,300 1 40 N/A 52
CRAFTSMAN 21205 4,000 1 40 W 48
Dual-bevel mitersaws offer versatility—at a price DeWALT DW715 4,000 5⁄8, 1* 32 N/A 50
Most saws tilt only to the left for bevel cuts, but dual-bevel compound mitersaws
tilt both left and right. Sounds cool, but is it really an advantage? We checked out HITACHI C12LCH 4,000 1 32 S 52
DeWalt’s DW716 and Hitachi’s C12LDH, essentially the same as their respective MAKITA LS1221 4,000 1 32 N/A 48
saws in our test but with the ability to bevel right as well as left, and we found RIDGID MS1250LZ 4,000 1 40 W 47
the dual-bevel saws equaled their single-bevel counterparts in every way, with
the extra bevel the only distinction. RYOBI TS1552DXL 3,600 5⁄8, 1* 28 W 47
But is it worth the extra $60–$80? We find it handy if we’re cutting bevels on NOTES:
long workpieces and don’t have the elbow room to swing them around to cut 1. (*) Arbor is 5⁄8” with adapter for 1” blades.
the other end—although that calls for plenty of room on each side of the saw.
Because the saw head tilts both ways, some manufacturers reduce the fence 2. All blades were thin-kerf except Bosch.
height, while others have sliding fences on each side. 3. (S) Tool-mounted adjustable single laser
A dual-bevel mitersaw also has value to left-handed folks who might prefer to (W) Washer-mounted
hold their workpiece with their right hand and operate the saw with their left. (N/A) No laser on this model
And finally, because the motors are located more on top and in back of these
saws, visibility improves on both sides of the blade.

90 WOOD magazine September 2007

 Ridgid MS1250LZ, $270 866-539-1710, ridgid.com
High points
d A retractable pin offers bevel stops at 33.9° and 45°, as well as angles up to 48°.
d An open-leg metal stand, not shown, comes with the saw.
Low points
f The 45° miter stops proved inaccurate even after we calibrated the 90° stop dead-on.
f The burlap-like dust bag allows fine dust to escape through its pores.
f The laser shines 1⁄16" to the left of the cut, making it tough to rely on it for accuracy.
More points
g The miter scale is segmented in half-degrees for extra accuracy, but the marks are nearly
impossible to see inside the cursor window.
g The horizontal hold-in clamp has a half-nut design that allows for quick adjustments, but when
tightened even with little pressure it causes workpieces to lift off the table.
g In addition to its three-year warranty, Ridgid offers a lifetime service agreement offering free
replacement parts.

Ryobi TS1552DXL, $200 800-525-2579, ryobitools.com

High points
d The 45° miter stops proved dead-on right out of the box in our 8-miter frame test.
d It has the only disc-style laser that proved reliable for accurately lining up cuts.
d This saw features a bevel scale and cursor on each side of the head, allowing you to always see
one of them clearly.
d Extension wings provide workpiece support up to 21" from each side of the blade, and the cutoff
stop mounts 111⁄2" to 191⁄2" from the blade.
Low points
f The bevel stop system won’t allow angles beyond 45° without resetting the stop. You have to
recalibrate it to establish the 45° stop again.
f The fence was not square to the table and had to be shimmed.
f The blade guard would not stay retracted when changing blades, making it more difficult.
f The burlap-like dust bag allows fine dust to escape through its pores.
More points
g The hold-in clamp holds stock against the fence without lifting, but has no quick-release on the
threaded rod.

12" COMPOUND MITERSAWS MAKE THE CUT

MITER BEVEL CUTTING CAPACITIES, INCHES (5) PERFORMANCE RATINGS (6) ACCESSORIES (7)
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31.62 -3–45 33.9 25 x 28 28 8 5 5⁄8 8 5 1⁄8 2 7⁄8 A- A A- A B B- B A A- B+ A- B B- A B B- D,H,T C,F,M,W 7 46.8 1 T $310
31.62 0–45 — 23 x 34 41 8 5 5⁄8 8 4 7⁄8 2 7⁄8 A A- B- B+ C A- B B A A A- C A A A B+ C,D,H,L,W M 7 47.5 1 T $260
10, 31.62 -3–48 33.9 25 x 37 40 7 7⁄8 5 5⁄8 7 7⁄8 6 1⁄4 3 1⁄4 A B+ B A B+ B B B A B+ A- C A A- C B- D,W C,F,H,L,M 7 43.6 3 M $330
31.62 -3–48 — 24 x 38 24 8 1⁄8 5 3⁄4 8 1⁄8 4 5⁄8 2 7⁄8 B+ A- C B+ A A- B A- A- B+ A C B- A- B- B- D,H,L C,F,M,W 9 47.8 5 C $330
31.62 0–45 — 24 x 26 38 8 1⁄8 5 5⁄8 8 1⁄8 4 3⁄4 3 A A- A- B+ C B+ B+ B- A B+ A B B- A- B+ B- D,H,W HC 7 42.2 1 C $295
31.62 -3–48 33.9 25 x 28* 28 7 7⁄8 5 1⁄2 7 7⁄8 4 3⁄8 2 7⁄8 A- A- B- B+ B+ B- B B A B+ A- B A A A C D,HC,L,S,T M 10 49.1* 3 T $270
30 0–45 — 24 x 28 42 8 5 5⁄8 8 4 5⁄8 2 7⁄8 A A- A- B+ C A- B B+ A- B A- C B- A- C C C,D,HC,L,W M 7 46.5 2 T $200

4. (*) Footprint for stand is 38 x 28”. 7. (C) Cutoff stop 8. With all included accessories attached.
(D) Dust bag (*) Ridgid stand weighs an additional 24.8 pounds.
5. Measured with 3⁄4”-thick stock standing against the fence. (F) Crown molding fence
(H) Hold-down clamp 9. (C) China
6. A Excellent (HC) Horizontal clamp (M) Mexico
B Good (L) Laser guide (T) Taiwan
C Fair (M) Mobile stand
(S) Stationary stand 10. Prices current at time of article production
(T) Table extension and do not include shipping where applicable.
(W) Extension wings

woodmagazine.com 91
tool Shop
Mitersaw
Finger
Savers
mitersaws are so easy to use that we
often forget their potential for
mishaps. Follow these simple
guidelines for safe operation.

Watch a Free 4-minute video

on mitersaw basics at Don’t do this at home! When you hold a workpiece this close to the blade, you risk having the
woodmagazine.com/videos. saw grab it and yank your hand into the cutting action.

T
rue story. A guy volunteers at a  Always unplug the saw before portion of the spinning blade, keep
community home-building changing blades or performing any your hands out of the no-hands zone,
project. The coordinator asks maintenance. typically 8" to each side of the blade, as
him if he knows how to use a mitersaw.  Make a habit of wearing safety glasses shown below left. Instead, use hold-
“Sure, no problem,” he replies. They and hearing protection. down clamps to secure short pieces, as
give him a task of cutting boards to  Don’t wear loose clothing or jewelry shown below right. This also increases
length. To everyone’s astonishment, he when using the saw. Tie back long hair the accuracy of your cut because the
proceeds to the rear of the mitersaw to keep it from getting near the blade. blade sometimes can move a handheld
and begins cutting boards by reaching workpiece slightly; a clamped work-
over the top! (If you don’t at this point How to give your board— piece stays put.
know why this is dangerous, please not your saw—a hand Outside the no-hands zone, hold a
finish this article before touching a Unlike a tablesaw, where most of the workpiece wherever it feels comfortable
mitersaw.) Thankfully, a volunteer who blade turns below the table, a mitersaw and you can get a firm grip. Make a
knows tools stopped the guy and gently exposes half of its blade during a cut. habit of holding a workpiece where you
coached him into using the correct Even though the guard covers a good continued on page 94
technique—from the front of the saw.
While this anecdote merits a few keep your hands For yourselF a much-needed helpinG hand
chuckles, it also reveals how some folks
take for granted the safe and proper
methods for operating machinery—and
how little they know about their tools.

Safety starts before

you pull the trigger
Before you even plug in a mitersaw—or
any tool for that matter—you must No-hands
zone Hold-down
understand the fundamentals. clamp
 Get to know your tool by reading
the manual and familiarizing yourself
with the saw’s components and how
they work. Never hold a workpiece between the lines Use your mitersaw’s hold-down clamp to
 Never remove your mitersaw’s safety of the no-hands zone when cutting. Instead, safely secure workpieces while cutting. The
guard or alter it in any way. hold it outside the lines or use a clamp. clamp lifts out of the way when not needed.

92 WOOD magazine September 2007

Tool Shop
keep your hands clear don’t rock the board avoid a missle launch

When cutting boards, position your hand so The uneven profile on this molding causes it Cutoffs could expel forcefully when
you can touch the end of the table’s fence or to rock on the saw table. Instead of cutting it contacted by a spinning blade; so stop the
auxiliary fence to keep clear of the blade. this way, flip the piece to its flat, stable side. saw and clear them before your next cut.

also can grab the the end of the saw’s contact, and can violently eject cutoffs the fence provides little support for the
fence or table, as shown above. This as well as damage the workpiece. workpiece, and the spinning blade
ensures your fingers won’t be drawn  Support long workpieces with stands, could pull the board—and your hand—
into the blade’s path. either shop-made (woodmagazine.com/ into the cut. Even if it doesn’t get your
support) or commercial (shown below hand, the kickback could propel the
Use proven techniques left). This keeps them from teetering, board into your body or face.
for safer cutting and ensures your cuts will be square to  Remove small or thin cutoffs, shown
 Know how your mitersaw’s motor the mitersaw table. above, that fall into the insert opening
works, and make your cuts accordingly.  Make sure all workpieces lie solidly to avoid kicking them out with the
Soft-start motors and soft-grabbing on the table; irregular pieces, such as blade’s next cut.
brakes eliminate the up or down lurch the crown molding shown above, can  Sliding mitersaws require you to pull
of the saw head when you start and shift and be ejected or pulled into the the motor/blade housing out on its
stop the machine. (Not every mitersaw blade. Round workpieces or dowels can rails, and then cut while pushing down
includes these features, however. You also roll or be pulled into the blade, and toward the fence. Never cut in a
have to learn through experience how especially on miter or bevel cuts. Secure pull motion; the saw head could lurch
to handle one of these saws to negate them with a clamp before cutting. forward and cause injury.
the lurch.) Once engaged, allow your  Always rest your workpiece against
saw to reach full speed before cutting. the fence. Cutting with a gap between Set up your mitersaw
After the cut, allow the blade to stop the workpiece and fence could pull for built-in safety
before raising it. Lifting a spinning your hand into the blade. Now that you know how to use your
blade exposes your hand to possible  Never attempt a rip cut on a miter- mitersaw safely, let’s equip it for best
saw, as shown below, unless your stock performance. First, anchor the saw
Extend your support is 12" or more wide. In this orientation, securely to a workbench or jobsite stand
to keep it from moving during a cut.
don’t let ’er rip And, clear the floor and workspace
around the saw of anything that could
make you trip and lose your balance.
Always use a sharp blade designed for
your style and size mitersaw. For
construction purposes—cutting
dimensional softwood lumber—crisp,
tear-out-free cuts are not critical, so a
40-tooth (10") or 60-tooth (12")
crosscut blade proves a good compro-
mise of price and performance. But, for
precision woodworking and smooth
cuts, usually in hardwood less than 1"
thick, step up to an 80-tooth 10" blade
or a 96-tooth 12" blade.
When crosscutting hardwood thicker
than 1", Freud’s Jim Brewer recom-
Work stands must hold boards level to the Ripping a board in this manner could lead to mends a 60-tooth 10" blade or a
mitersaw table to ensure square cuts, so get serious injury because the blade could yank 72-tooth 12" blade. He says ideally any
one with a height adjustment. the board and your hand into the cut. continued on page 96

94 WOOD magazine September 2007

 Tool shop
blade should have 5–7 teeth in the
workpiece’s thickness during the
cut. More teeth cause heat buildup
that burns the wood, and fewer teeth
carry too much chip load and
roughen the cut.
In addition to the number of
teeth, the hook angle of those teeth
proves critical as well. Compound
mitersaw blades should have a hook
angle (see drawing below) between
10° and –5°. Sliding mitersaws—
which move forward and backward
as well as up and down—should use
a less-aggressive blade: from 5° to –5°.
As for the kerf, or the thickness of
the blade’s teeth, standard- and
thin-kerf blades perform equally
well in terms of cut quality. But,
under-powered saws should use a
thin-kerf blade to avoid overloading
the motor. ¿

hook anGle
Positive hook angle

Saw blade

Centerline
of blade

Positive hook angle Negative hook angle

Centerline Centerline
of blade of blade

Positive hook angles create more

aggressive cuts because the tips of
the teeth pitch forward into the wood.
Negative hook blades ease into a cut
because the teeth are pitched back.

Special thanks to the Power Tool

Institute for providing power-tool
safety information. PTI also makes
available free mitersaw (and other
tools) safety videos and DVDs in
English and Spanish at
Force from
powertoolinstitute.com.
positive hook
blade Blade

96 WOOD magazine September 2007

Workp
Avoiding Workshop Goofs

Clamp down
on glue-up
mistakes
Try these 10 tips for
better results every time. 5
1 6

G
luing up and clamping a project
proves just as critical as the
machining and finishing
stages, so take the time to get it right.
These tips will save you time, grief, and,
quite possibly, your project.

A dry-fit solves problems

It’s tough to solve fitting dilemmas
1 while your glue bonds with the
wood, and there’s no going back after it
4
has set. To keep yourself out of that
3
bind, always dry-fit your assembly—
that means no glue—to verify all joints
fit together as planned, as shown above
right. If joints don’t fit, go back and
solve problems before applying glue.
Dry-fitting shows which clamps and 8 ways to prevent warped
how many are needed, and where on or uneven glue-ups
the assembly they go. You also get an Edge-glued panels make up a big part of
idea of how long it will take to glue and many large furniture projects, so you
clamp the assembly—you might want them to turn out perfect. To avoid
discover that the process takes longer panels that warp or require great work
than the glue’s open time allows to flatten them, try these tips:
(typically less than 15 minutes for
yellow glue). In that case, divide the 3 Work on a flat surface or benchtop.
Assembling a panel on a warped
work into sub-assemblies. For example, surface can transfer that warp onto your
when building an end table, make two glue-up.
assemblies of two legs with their rails
and let them dry, rather than trying to 4 Add clamps over gluelines along the
ends to keep the board faces flush. 2
assemble all four legs and rails at the
same time. 5 Use similar clamps. Mixing clamps
in a specific application can cause

2 You also can save yourself time

and worry during a glue-up with
differences in clamping force and lead
to warping. The photo at top shows
some prep work during the dry-fit. matching aluminum bar clamps to pull
Rather than trying to remove messy the boards together edge to edge. It’s
glue squeeze-out in hard-to-reach okay to use hand clamps on the ends
places after you’ve put the clamps on, because they apply clamping force in a
take this time to mask those trouble- different direction than the bar clamps.
some spots, such as the inside corners
of a chest or case, as shown at right, 6 Alternate clamps over and under
a panel or long glue-up to balance Cleaning up glue squeeze-out will be a
with painter’s tape. This will help you the clamping pressure. snap because the excess glue sticks to the
remove excess glue with ease. continued on page 100 painter’s tape instead of the wood surface.

98 WOOD magazine September 2007

Avoiding Workshop Goofs

7 Snug up and tighten clamps evenly.

Add a little pressure to each clamp
in sequence rather than tightening
each one fully before moving on to
the next clamp.

8 Don’t overtighten your clamps. Too

much force can cause a panel to
cup, as well as squeeze out too much
glue. Apply only a thin film of glue to
the wood surfaces (excess glue will just 8
squeeze out and require cleanup); then
use just enough clamping force to
produce glue squeeze-out that forms a 9
7
uniform thin line or beads along the
glue line.

9 Align the center of the workpieces

being clamped with the center of
the clamping force, in this case, the
screw on the pipe clamps. This places
your glue joint directly in line with the 10
clamp’s greatest pressure. Use scrap
stock to elevate the assembly to the Place strips of MDF or plywood parallel to the boards—across the clamp bars or pipes—and
screw height. away from the glueline to elevate a panel.
Finally, leave a clamped assembly
10 on your flat table or workbench for the glue time to bond with the wood. against a wall or cabinet could cause
30 minutes before moving it. This gives Moving it right away or leaning it warping. ¿

100 WOOD magazine September 2007

Shop-Proven Products About our product tests
We test hundreds of tools and accessories, but only those that
These woodworking wares passed our shop trials earn at least three stars for performance make the final cut and
appear in this section.

The turning tool you’ll never sharpen

The one thing that makes woodturn- cuts ready for sanding. The tool excels
ing less enjoyable for me is having to at hollowing end grain and easily
stop every few minutes to sharpen my scrapes areas, such as the transition
tools. That nuisance is a memory with between the bottom and side of an
the Hunter Carbide Hollowing Tool. end-grain box, that are difficult to get
The business end of this tool is an at with other tools.
extremely sharp and durable 1 ⁄2" round Although it takes a little practice to
solid-carbide cutter. You use only a find the sweet spot—I found it with
small portion of the cutter at any the cutter 35°–45° from horizontal—
given time (the action is similar to when you do, the tool cuts smoothly
shear-scraping with a round-nose and quickly. While certainly not
scraper), and when that portion gets catch-proof, the cutter on the Hunter
dull, you simply loosen the set screw, Carbide Hollowing Tool doesn’t self-
rotate the cutter a partial turn, and feed, so a catch isn’t the disastrous
you’re back in business with a sharp event common with a bowl gouge.
edge in just seconds. When the cutter has made a
The Hunter Tool made fast work of complete rotation (I figure I’ll get at
hollowing a 10"-diameter, 5"-deep side- least six fresh edges), simply replace it.
grain bowl I turned from spalted soft The new cutter costs $20, making the
maple, but I had trouble getting a Hunter Tool as wallet-friendly as it is
really fine finish in this soft wood. So user-friendly, especially for beginning
I used high-speed steel tools for the wood turners.
fine finish cuts. —Tested by Jan Svec
To see how the carbide cutting edge
would hold up, I challenged the Hunter
Tool by turning an end-grain lidded Hunter Carbide Hollowing Tool
box from a chunk of white oak. Even Performance 
after this punishing task, the cutter Price $100, #4 (1 ⁄2"-dia. cutter);
appeared to have dulled little, if at all. $85 #3 (3 ⁄8"-dia. cutter)
Without changing tools, I went from Hunter Tool Systems
rough hollowing cuts to fine finish 612-922-1197; hunterwoodturningtool.com

A compact, whisper-quiet air compressor

I love those new lightweight air to my wife and the neighbor while they
compressors that pack enough punch chatted. Neither of them had to raise
to drive a finish nailer, brad nailer, or their voices to continue talking.
pinner, yet are easily carried into the The pressure gauges and adjustment
house for occasional trim jobs. knobs are easily accessible, and the unit
Weighing in at 28 pounds, DeWalt’s carries like a dream: well balanced and
1-gallon D55140 weighs less than half close to my body without banging my
as much as the 4-gallon units we used knee with every step. You can buy the
to call “compact.” D55140 by itself or comboed with
But this compressor is no lightweight DeWalt’s 2" brad nailer and a 25' hose
when it comes to performance. I used it to make it an even better value. ¿
to power my framing nailer, and it —Tested by Steve Feeney
drove 10, 31 ⁄2" nails before the motor
kicked in to top off the tank. Even
while recharging I was able to drive D55140 Trim Compressor
more framing nails. Performance 
What impressed me most, though, is Price $170; $220 with brad nailer
and hose (model D51238K)
how little noise this unit makes. While
trimming out a door in a neighbor’s DeWalt
house, I fired up the D55140 right next 800-433-9258; dewalt.com

102 WOOD magazine September 2007

Just-Right Joinery
Put the Clamps on
Miter-Joint
Slippage
Don’t let your frame
projects give you the slip.
Here’s how to keep a
mitered corner in place. 45°

W
oodworkers make countless 90°
miter joints and, in the
process, they test plenty of
ways to clamp those joints. Which way
is best? Your choice of a clamp depends
on the shape and size of the workpieces,
as well as your tool-buying budget.
You can handle most mitering jobs
with the wooden shopmade angle
blocks shown at right, combined with
standard bar clamps. Make several pairs
while you’re at it. But if you do a lot of
mitering, a well-designed commercial
clamp will speed your projects along.
We suggest that you avoid buying
miter clamps until you need them,
rather than committing money and
storage space to such specialized tools. If A shop-made remedy: angle blocks. Use your tablesaw and miter gauge to cut two right triangles from ¾" scrap.
you do buy miter clamps, practice using Glue the long side of each triangle onto a ¼×¾×6" strip of plywood or solid wood to make angle blocks. Clamp each
them before you start gluing. Now, take a block onto one piece of the joint with a small clamp, then clamp across the joint, as shown. If the blocks slide, glue a
look at some of the models we like. strip of 150-grit sandpaper on the inside face of each one.

Threaded rod frames tackle medium-size jobs.

Turn the knurled nuts on the threaded rods to clamp
rectangular frames sized from 3×5" up to nearly 4×4'. We
used scrap pieces to support this narrow molding and center
the clamping pressure on the middle of the workpiece.
Changing settings can be frustratingly slow, so you might
want to buy “Quick Nuts,” which can be slid along the rods
into position, then screwed tight. Woodworker’s Supply
sells the basic clamp set no. 71-712 with eight 24" threaded
rods, four corner brackets, four extension couplings, and
four brass nuts for $21. A package of four “Quick Nuts” (no.
922-216) costs $10.49, and extra brackets (no. 113-456) are
$2.49 each. Call 800-645-9292 or visit woodworker.com.

Continued on page 110

108 WOOD magazine September 2007

Just-Right Joinery

Quick and easy spring clamps. These create sufficient tension to clamp lightweight Metal band clamps align as they tighten. This clamping system uses 90° corners
frames or moldings. However, you need a spreader tool, and the points of the clamps leave to square up assemblies, and a fabric band that’s sturdy enough for heavy-duty jobs.
tiny holes in the wood. When that’s a problem, you can add rubber suction cups to the tips, Remove the corners, and the band alone handles circles, multi-sided frames, and chair
but don’t expect those cups to grip on small curved surfaces. Grizzly Industrial sells a starter leg assemblies without marring the wood. The fabric stretches slightly after tightening,
set (no. H3703) with a spreader, four medium clamps, and four suction cups for $40. Call however. To buy the no. 9012 Merle clamp, shown above, for $27, call MLCS at 800-533-9298,
800-523-4777, or visit grizzly.com. or visit mlcswoodworking.com. ¿
110 WOOD magazine September 2007
 What’s Ahead

Better Homes and Gardens® WOOD® magazine (ISSN-0743-894X) is published seven times a year in March, May, July, September, October, November, and December/January by Meredith Corporation, 1716 Locust St., Des Moines, IA 50309-3023. Periodicals postage paid at Des Moines, Iowa, and additional mailing offices. Better
Homes and Gardens trademark registered in Canada and Australia. Marca Registrada en México. One-year subscription prices: U.S. and its possessions, $28; Canada, $41; other countries, $49. Canada Post Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40069223. Canadian BN 12348 2887 RT. CANADIAN RETURN ADDRESS:
A sneak peek inside the October issue (on sale August 28)

Nesting tables
FEATURED PROJECT Basic joinery—just biscuits and
screws—ensures that you can build this
handsome pair in a weekend.

Better Homes and Gardens WOOD magazine, 2835 Kew Drive, Windsor, ON, N8T 3B7. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Better Homes and Gardens WOOD magazine, P.O. Box 37439, Boone, IA 50037-0439.
The best tool I ever bought Get into woodturning for under $600
From tablesaws to handsaws, our Here’s everything you need to know, including how to
editors and contributors reveal 13 buy your first lathe, turning tools, sharpening system,
of their all-time favorite tools. four-jaw chuck, and other essentials.

Storage bins
Build any or all of these modules
Bench tool system
from inexpensive, no-finish-required,
Looking for easy, affordable projects? Our Basic-Built project series kicks off
melamine panels. Perfect for the
with this vertical organizer for benchtop tools. Simply slide out a tool and its
garage or basement.
bolt-on tray, sit them atop the wheeled workstation, and go to it.

TOOL TEST

Aftermarket mitergauges and sleds Plane-fun kid’s shelf

Would you like to repeatedly cut miters accurate to within 1⁄10° with minimal Here’s a project sure to delight its young recipient. You’ll even find suggestions for how you can
setup? Several of the 14 accessories we reviewed can do just that. involve the child in its construction.

120 WOOD magazine September 2007