The art of Panettone by Hans Ovando

I would like to start this course by telling you that we have put all our love and experience into explaining
every detail of the course step by step.

Inside the video lessons you will find every single detail but if the panettone doesn’t come out right the
first time, don’t despair. It took me 12 years to get the best result.

I want to start by telling you that panettone is not an exact science, it has many details to take into
consideration and there is also so much missinformation, especially on social platforms, which often
confuses us.

Panettone is a living matter and behaves as such, you have to take care of it and love it, give it all the
attention it needs (as a living matter it needs a lot of care).

Panettone gives you back what you give it, and if someone doesn’t want to understand that, it’s time to
give up (love is paid with love).

Panettone is capricious, it doesn’t know what problems or excuses are. Be constant and you will get
constant results.
If you do things differently it will provide different results (which doesn’t mean better results).
After 12 years of experience I can say that making panettone is not difficult, but you have to pay a lot of
attention to the care of the sourdough, which in the end is partly responsible for the final work.

To preserve the art and the secret I have not wirtten down the processes in the recipe book, but you can
follow them step by step in the video lessons that come with the course.

I wish you all the best with your panettones and that you enjoy this course as much as we have enjoyed
creating it.

HANS OVANDO

Pastry chef
 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

INDEX

Basic tools 4

What is Panettone? 5

History 5

Sourdough: How to active the sourdough? 6

Sourdough for panettone 8

Previous elaborations and first knead 9

Traditional fruit panettone 10

Traditional two-chocolate panettone 12

Cranberries, pistachio and cherries panettone 14

Classic pandoro 16

Colomba Pascuale 18

Additional elaborations 20

References 22

Our courses 23

Sponsors 24

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

Basic tools

Twin-arm doough mixer

Big containers for bulk rest

Bowls

Scale

Thermometer

Saucepans

Induction cooker

Panettone and colomba ramekins

Pandoro moulds

Oven

Skewer for panettone

Piping bags

Dough cutter

Nozzles

PhMeter

Ruler

Spatulas

Knife

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

What’s a panettone?

‘Panettone’ or ‘panetone’ (in Milanese paneton or panetton), called ‘panettone’, ‘pan dulce’ or ‘pan
de pascua’ in Spanish-speaking countries, is a brioche-like pastry filled with sultanas, candied fruit
(orange, citron and lemon) or chocolate chips. It is dome-shaped and the dough is made with
bread flour, sourdough or fresh yeast, eggs, butter and sugar.

It is a traditional Christmas dessert in Milan (Italy) where it has been known since at least 1470. It
is also very popular in South America, especially in Peru where, in addition to being traditional at
New Year’s Eve celebrations, it is also eaten during their annual national holidays in July.

History

There are two main stories about the origin of panettone.

According to the first, the history of this dessert began more than five centuries ago, around 1490,
when a young aristocrat, Ughetto Atellani de Futi, fell in love with the daughter of a pastry chef
in Milan. To prove his love for her, he pretended to be a pastry apprentice and invented a sweet
dome-shaped bread made with candied fruit and lemon and orange flavouring. The Milanese
began to flock to the bakery to order “Toni’s bread”, as the assistant was called, and hence the
name Panettone.

According to the other, probably better known legend, Panettone was born at the court of
Ludovico Il Moro, lord of Milan from 1494 to 1500, on Christmas Eve. It is said that the Duke
celebrated Christmas with a grand dinner, full of delicious dishes worthy of the wealth of the
Milanese court. Dessert was to be the natural conclusion to such a lavish banquet, however,
the moment it was taken out of the oven, the cook realised that it had been burnt. There was
a moment of terror in Ludovico’s kitchen, but fortunately a dishwasher, named Antonio, had
thought to use the leftover ingredients to knead a sweet bread and take it home. Given the
situation, young Antonio proposed to the cook to serve his bread as a dessert. It was a very well
risen sweet bread, filled with candied fruit and butter, which was immediately taken to the Duke.
The unusual dessert was a huge success and Ludovico asked the cook who had prepared it and
what his name was. The cook introduced the Duke to the young Antonio, who confessed that the
dessert did not yet have a name. The lord then decided to call it “Pane de toni”, which over the
centuries would become Panettone.

The first record of Panettone as a traditional Milanese Christmas sweet is an article by the writer
Pietro Verri in the 18th century, who calls it ‘pane di tono’ (big bread).

Numerous variations have been derived from that first bread and it can be found with grapes,
sultanas, pine nuts, almonds, chocolate and candied fruit. In Milan it has become a traditional
Christmas dessert, especially since businessmen started giving it to their customers as a gift.

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

SOURDOUGH
How to start your sourdough?
Here you have the recipe and you can follow the processes through the videos.

Day 1

100 g Raisins, apples or flour bio culture Don’t forget to leave the preparation for 4-5 days at 20-24 ºC.
200 g Mineral water at room temperature

On the 4th or 5th day

Mix the strained water with the flour until obtaining a mash.

100 g Filtered water from the previous Put in a container and store at room temperature (20-24 ºC) until the
elaboration
following day. (See video).
100 g Ylla panettone flour
(see panettone recipe)

On the 6th day

Knead, fold and reserve in a non-cold place (20-24 ºC) until the next day.
100 g Sourdough (from the previous day)
100 g Ylla Panettone flour (See video).
30 a 40 g Mineral water
Continue the process on a daily basis until the sourdough reaches a
bacterial activity that doubles the size in water or triples the size when dry in
3-4 hours at 27 ºC (see video).

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

Día 25: Preparation in the cloth

200 g Fermented sourdough Once refreshed, we will use the sac technique as it is showed in the video.
200 g Ylla panettone flour
This technique is used to select the strongest bacteria, depriving them from
70 g a 80 g Mineral water
food, water, oxygen and light for 12-24 hours at 18-20 ºC.

Once the time is up, we’ll take back that sourdough and we’ll refresh it again
before the bagnetto.

Day 26: Bagnetto preparation Once the sourdough refreshment is done, we’ll slice the sourdough into 2-3
cm pieces. We’ll put those in a mineral water batch with 5% sugar to reduce
2 l Mineral water at 27 ºC the acidity.
100 g White sugar
We’ll leave it there for 2-3 hours.

After that time, refresh the sourdough with a 1:1:0.4 proportion (100 g flour
- 100 g Sourdough - 40 g water at 27 ºC).

It is recomended to refresh the sourdough 2 times a day until the 30th day.

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

SOURDOUGH FOR
PANETTONE
Refreshments recipe

150 g Sourdough (active)

150 g YLLA panettone flour
55 a 60 g Mineral water

Once the sourdough is ready, you will need 3 refreshments before

kneading the panettone.

Knead (final temperature 27 ºC), fold and ferment at 27 ºC.

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

PREVIOUS ELABORATIONS
AND FIRST KNEAD
Scented water infusion for the
panettone kneading

1000 g 40 ºC Weak mineral water Mix everything and leave to rest for 24 hours at 18-20 ºC (room
5 a 10 un Emptied vanilla pods or seeds temperature).

First knead
(Base for all panettones)
• Put the flour in the kneader, the sourdough, the infused water and a little
1870 g YLLA Panettone flour bit of egg yolks. Knead for 5 minutes at medium speed.
(W380/400) P/L 0,55
• Add the sugar little by little in batches during 4-5 minutes.
910 g Water (Infusion)
• Add the egg yolk little by little during 4-5 minutes.
630 g Butter St.Villepré
• Lastly, add the diced butter at 20 ºC during 4-5 minutes.
640 g 3-times-refreshed sourdough (3-4 h
• Kned until obtaining a smooth texture that has developed the gluten. The
per refreshment and fermentation at 27 ºC)
final dough should be at 24-25 ºC.
570 g Egg yolks
• Put the dough in a container with butter and measure the volume. We’ll
560 g White sugar keep it in the stove at 27-28 ºC.

References during the first knead

• Kneading time: 15-20 minutes.

• Bulk rest: 10 minutes.

• Fold and store in a container.

• Final kneading temperature: 23-24.5 ºC.

• Bulk fermentation: 26-27 ºc until it triples the size (the time will depend on the activity of the sourdough).

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

TRADITIONAL PANETTONE
FRUIT: ORANGE,LEMON AND RAISINS
Second knead
Knead following the processes in the videos.

References for the second knead:

All the first kneading
• Kneading time: 15-20 minutes.
860 g Butter St.Villepré
600 g YLLA Panettone flour • Final temperature of the kneading process: 23-24.5 ºC.
560 g Egg yolks
• Bulk rest for 10 minutes in the kneader.
480 g White sugar
80 g Brown sugar (optional or all • First fold.
white)
80 g a 100 g Infused water • Bulk rest in a container for 30 minutes, fold and another 30 minutes at 27 ºC.
150 g Honey
• Divide into 900 to 1000 g pieces and leave to rest for 30 minutes on a wooden table at
60 g Powdered milk
27 ºC.
25 g Salt
22 g Powdered malt • Shape and place in the ramekins.
4 un Orange zest
• Bulk rest at 26-27 ºC until they triple the size. (The fermentation time will depend on
4 un Lemon zest
the activity of the sourdough).
4 Vanilla pod
FILLING • Put the glaze and the toppings according to the panettone.
1200 g Candied orange washed with
water at 35 ºC • Bake at 150-160 ºC until the crumb reaches 92-95 ºC after 40-50 minutes.
500 g Sultanas with 10% liqour
• Hang the panettones after baking for 6-8 hours.
300 g Candied lemon washed with
water at 35 ºC
• Place the panettones in the airtight packaging and keep them at 23-24 ºC.

(We wash the candied fruit in order to remove

the excess of sugars that might affect the

fermentation times)

Almond glaze for panettone

520 g Icing sugar

Mix the ingredients and reserve.
260 g Powdered almond
Dose on the panettone before baking and cover that with raw unpeeled almonds
200 g Egg whites
and pearl sugar.
80 g Potato starch
20 g Sunflower or grapeseed oil

Finish

Pearl sugar
Raw unpeeled almonds

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

PISTACHIO, CHERRIES AND

CRANBERRIES PANETTONE
Second knead

All of the first knead Knead following the processes in the videos.
500 g Butter St.Villepré
References for the second knead:
600 g YLLA panettone flour
560 g Egg yolks • Kneading time: 15-20 minutes.
480 g White sugar
• Final temperature of the kneading process: 23-24.5 ºC.
80 g Brown sugar
150 g Honey • Bulk rest for 10 minutes in the kneader.
60 g Powdered milk
• First fold.
25 g Salt
22 g Powdered malt • Bulk rest in a container for 30 minutes, fold and another 30 minutes at 27 ºC.
Pistachio ganache (Next recipe)
• Divide into 900 to 1000 g pieces and leave to rest for 30 minutes on a wooden table
4 un Orange zest
at 27 ºC.
4 un Lemon zest
4 un Vanilla pod • Shape and place in the ramekins.

• Bulk rest at 26-27 ºC until they triple the size. (The fermentation time will depend on
FILLING
the activity of the sourdough).
300 g White chocolate
400 g Toasted pistachios • Put the glaze and the toppings according to the panettone.
(8 minutes at 150 ºC)
• Bake at 150-160 ºC until the crumb reaches 92-95 ºC after 40-50 minutes.
600 g Cranberries washed with water at35
ºC and 10% liquor.
• Hang the panettones after baking for 6-8 hours.
600 g Amarena cherry
• Place the panettones in the airtight packaging and keep them at 23-24 ºC.

Pistachio ganache (add during

the kneading)

300 g Natural pistachio paste

50 g Scented pistachio paste Sosa
60 g Melted cocoa butter
180 g Mild cream
80 g Infused water

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

Pistachio glaze for panettone

520 g Icing sugar

Mix all of the ingredients and reserve.
130 g Powdered almond
130 g Pistachio
200 g Egg white
80 g Potato starch
20 g Aceite de Pepita de uva o girasol

Finish

Pearl sugar
Raw unpeeled almond
Raw pistachio

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

TRADITIONAL TWO-CHOCOLATE
PANETTONE
Second knead

All of the first knead Knead following the processes in the videos.
600 g Butter St.Villepré
References for the second knead:
600 g YLLA Panettone flour
560 g Egg yolks • Kneading time: 15-20 minutes.
280 g White sugar
• Final temperature of the kneading process: 23-24.5 ºC.
280 g Brown sugar
150 g Honey • Bulk rest for 10 minutes in the kneader.
60 g Powdered milk
• First fold.
25 g Salt
22 g Powdered malt • Bulk rest in a container for 30 minutes, fold and another 30 minutes at 27 ºC.
4 un Orange zest
• Divide into 900 to 1000 g pieces and leave to rest for 30 minutes on a wooden table
4 un Lemon zest
at 27 ºC.
4 un Vanilla pod
1 Chocolate ganache recipe • Shape and place in the ramekins.
(following recipe)
• Bulk rest at 26-27 ºC until they triple the size. (The fermentation time will depend on
the activity of the sourdough).
FILLING
900 g Dark chocolate 70% • Put the glaze and the toppings according to the panettone.
900 g Milk chocolate
• Bake at 150-160 ºC until the crumb reaches 92-95 ºC after 40-50 minutes.

• Hang the panettones after baking for 6-8 hours.

For the chocolate ganache
• Place the panettones in the airtight packaging and keep them at 23-24 ºC.
400 g Dark chocolate 70%
250 g Mild cream
80 g Infused water

Mix the ingredients and reserve.

Hazelnut glaze for panettone

520 g Icing sugar

130 g Powdered almond
130 g Powdered hazelnut
200 g Egg white
80 g Potato starch
20 g Sunflower or grapeseed oil

Finish
Powdered cocoa
Raw unpeeled hazelnut
Pearl sugar
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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

APRICOT, HAZELNUT AND GI-

ANDUJA
PANETTONE
Second knead Knead following the processes in the videos.

References for the second knead:

All of the first knead • Kneading time: 15-20 minutes.

860 g Butter St.Villepré
• Final temperature of the kneading process: 23-24.5 ºC.
200 g Pure toasted hazelnut paste
(optional to substitute for 200 g of butter) • Bulk rest for 10 minutes in the kneader.
600 g YLLA Panettone flour
• First fold.
560 g Egg whites
480 g White sugar • Bulk rest in a container for 30 minutes, fold and another 30 minutes at 27 ºC.
80 g Brown sugar (or all white)
• Divide into 900 to 1000 g pieces and leave to rest for 30 minutes on a wooden
80-100 g Infusion water
table at 27 ºC.
150 g Honey
60 g Powdered milk • Shape and place in the ramekins.
25 g Salt
• Bulk rest at 26-27 ºC until they triple the size. (The fermentation time will
22 g Powdered malt
depend on the activity of the sourdough).
4 un Orange zest
4 un Lemon zest • Put the glaze and the toppings according to the panettone.
4 un Vanilla pod
• Bake at 150-160 ºC until the crumb reaches 92-95 ºC after 40-50 minutes.

FILLING • Hang the panettones after baking for 6-8 hours.

• Place the panettones in the airtight packaging and keep them at 23-24 ºC.
1000 g Apricot in syrup
(see additional recipes)
1000 g Diced gianduja
(ver recetas adicionales)

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Hazelnut glaze for panettone

520 g cing sugar Mix all of the ingredients and reserve.

130 g Powdered almond
130 g Powdered hazelnut
200 g Egg white
80 g Potato starch
20 g Sunflower or grapeseed oil

Finish

Hazelnut glaze
Pearl sugar
Raw unpeeled hazelnut

Final touch

Tempered gianduja
Toasted hazelnuts
Apricot pâte de fruit
Pearl sugar

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

CLASSIC PANDORO
First knead Knead following the processes in the videos.

References for the second knead:

800 g FLour (W 380/400) - P/L: 0,55
Special for panettone • Knead as you would in the first knead of panettone with all of the yolks
380 g Egg yolks and eggs from the beginning.
100 g Whole eggs
370 g Sourdough
370 g Butter References for the second knead:
290 g White sugar
• Kneading time: 15-20 minutes.
40 g Brown sugar
310 g Vanilla infused water • Final temperature of the kneading process: 23-24.5 ºC.
5 g Beer yeast
• Bulk rest for 10 minutes in the kneader.
(fresh)l
• First fold.

Second knead • Bulk rest in a container for 30 minutes, fold and another 30 minutes at 27 ºC.

• Divide into 1000 g pieces and leave to rest for 30 minutes on wooden tables at
480 g Panettone flour
27 ºC.
190 g Boiled potato purée
120 g Whole eggs • Shape and place in the moulds.
50 g Powdered milk
• Bulk rest at 26-27 ºC until they triple the size. (The fermentation time will
12 g Powdered malt
depend on the activity of the sourdough).
320 g Butter
90 g Egg yolk • Put the glaze and the toppings according to the panettone.
60 g Honey
• Bake at 150-160 ºC until the crumb reaches 92-95 ºC after 40-50 minutes.
110 g White sugar
25 g Cocoa butter • Leave it to cool down for 8 hours.
22 g Salt
• Place the pandoros in airtight packagins and preserve them at 23-24 ºC.
4 u Vanilla pod
• Sprinkle with icing sugar before serving.

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

COLOMBA PASQUALE
Ingredients Knead following the processes in the videos.

We will follow the same recipe and References in the processes of the second knead.
processes as in the traditional fruit
panettone.
Glaze and toppings.
• Divide into 385 g pieces and leave to rest for 30 minutes on wooden
tables at 27 ºC.

• Shape and put in the colomba moulds. 2 crossed pieces (for the 750 g
moulds).

• There are other ways of doing it as shown in the videos.

• Bulk rest at 26-27 ºC until it triples the size (the fermentation time will
depend on the activity of the sourdough).

• Put the glaze and the toppings as shown in the fruit panettone.

• Bake at 150-160 ºC until the crumb reaches 92-95 ºC after 40-50

minutes.

• Hang the colombas after baking for 6-8 hours.

• Put the colombas in an airtight packaging and keep them at 23-24 ºC.

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

Additional elaborations
Hazelnut gianduja

100 g Toasted hazelnut paste Melt the chocolates and the cocoa butter separately.
100 g Toasted hazelnut praliné
Mix with the hazelnut paste and the praliné.
100 g Milk chocolate 41%
100 g Dark chocolate 70% Temper to 25 ºC.
30 g Cocoa butter
Put in the frame, 1 cm high.

Reserve until needed at 18 ºC.

Apricot and vanilla fruit paste

300 g Apricot purée Dissolve the acid in water.

8 g Yellow pectin
Mix the yellow pectin the with 32 g of sucrose.
32 g Sucrose (1)
75 g Liquid glucose Heat the purée up with the vanilla at 40 ºC. Sprinkle in the pectin and the
1/2 un Vanilla pod sucrose.
320 g Sucrose (2)
Add the rest of sucrose (2) and the liquid gluose and bring to boil.
3,2 g Tartatic acid
3 g Water to dissolve the acid in Cook the elaboration at 106-107 ºC.

Add the dissolved acid and cook for 1 more minute. Pour over the frame.

Leave it to gel for 12 hours. Cut and baste in sucrose.

Reserve until needed.

Apricot in vanilla and lemon syrup

Put all of the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to boil.

900 g Dried apricot
Leave it to rest at room temperature for 24 hours.
500 g Water
500 g Sucrose
1 un Vanilla pod
1 un Lemon zest

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 PANETTONE AND SOURDOUGH WITH HANS OVANDO

REFERENCES

Ylla
• Panettone flour

Vandemoortele
• Butter St.Villepre 82%

Cacao Barry
• Milk chocolate 41% Alunga
• Dark chocolate 70% Saint Domingue
• Powdered cocoa Extra brute

Boiron
• Apricot purée

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