HOW TO PLANT...

1) GABI (TARO)
Gabi is one of the major rootcrops grown throughout the country. It can be grown almost anywhere,
upland or lowland. Gabi or taro is one of the most important root crops in the Philippines.
Notwithstanding its widespread cultivation, this crop is commonly planted in areas not really suitable for
its culture since traditional staples (i.e., rice and corn) and vegetables are given priority to occupy good
production areas. Although gabi has the ability to grow in marginal and submarginal areas, it normally
grows well and produces high yield when cultivated in more suitable areas favored with the right soil and
rainfall needed by the crop. Apart from the ecological needs of gabi, good growth and yield is better
insured when appropriate cultural management is given to the crop, hence this digest has been prepared
to give one an insight to the basic requirements in its culture.
SOIL:
Gabi can be grown in a wide range of soil types either as upland (dryland) or lowland (wetland) crop. The
term upland refers to gabi production under a non-flooded condition and does not necessarily mean
growing in high elevations. Under upland culture best results are obtained on deep, well-drained loam
soil. Under lowland cultivation, which is usually in low-lying areas with abundant supply of fresh cool
water for irrigation, best results are obtained if the soil is alluvial. In either culture, soil pH ranging from
5.6-6.5 is reported to be best. Although gabi can be grown in water-logged areas, it does not usually grow
well in these places because the temperature build-up of the water during hot days causes the plant to
respire more.
RAINFALL:
Gabi is best adapted to a warm and moist environment. Evenly distributed rainfall is ideal especially for
upland gabi. In areas with distinct dry and wet periods, planting upland gabi should be timed in such a
way that the first four to five months of growth should receive a good amount of rain. For lowland gabi,
as long as there is a continuous supply of fresh and cool water, rainfall pattern is not critical.
TEMPERATURE:
A daily average temperature of 27-29C is ideal for gabi. Below 27C, yield is reduced. Likewise, above 29C
the plants are stunted and yield is greatly depressed.
PLANTING MATERIALS:
Planting materials are called setts. A sett is prepared from a plant or daughter plant, i.e., either sucker or
rhizome. It consists of the upper 1-2 cm of the corm or cormel plus the lower 20-25 cm of the petioles.
Best results are obtained with a sett size of 100-120 g. Smaller-sized setts can be used but maturity is
delayed. Planting materials should be uniform in size but if different sizes of setts are used, plant together
those that are more or less of the same size. Cormels can also be used as planting materials but these are
easily attacked by disease-causing organisms.
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LAND PREPARATION:
The method of land preparation generally depends on the culture used, whether upland or lowland.
Upland fields for gabi production is prepared in the same manner as that for other crops like corn. The
field is plowed and harrowed thoroughly to kill the weeds and pulverize the soil. When labor is scarce,
one plowing followed by harrowing is enough as long as existing weeds are properly controlled. After the
soil is thoroughly prepared, furrows are set. If flat planting is preferred, setts (planting materials) are
planted without making furrows. For lowland culture, the field is prepared in a manner similar to that of
lowland rice. Existing weeds are first removed by cutting mechanically or by hand, then the field is plowed
and harrowed both to puddle the soil and to flatten the area to ensure even distribution of irrigation
water. When the field is thoroughly prepared, lines are drawn using a lining board or an ordinary string as
planting guide.
PLANTING DISTANCE:
The recommended planting distance is 75 cm between rows and 50 cm between plants in the row. Closer
planting at 50 cm x 50 cm may be done but the size of individual corms gets smaller as planting distance
becomes closer. Both of the above mentioned planting distances are applicable for upland and lowland
culture.
PLANTING METHOD:
Under upland culture, gabi can be planted in furrows or in flat beds (without any furrow) with the help of
a bolo or a stick. If flat culture is preferred and irrigation is not possible, setts should be planted deeper
(8-10 cm) during dry months and shallower (4-5 cm) during wet months. Mulch to conserve moisture and
control weeds can be spread around the gabi plants. If labor is not a problem, planting can be made in
holes about 15 cm wide and 20 cm deep. A sett is placed in one hole and is partially covered with soil. As
the gabi grows the holes are naturally and slowly filled with soil. In the lowland, planting is done in flat
fields and setts are just inserted about 4-5 cm deep by hand into the puddled soil.
1. Plow the field twice to loosen the soil.
2. Harrow the field in a criss-cross manner to break the soil clods.
3. Make furrows at a distance of 75 cm. Plant in the furrows. For irregular and hilly areas,
plant in holes.
4. For upland culture, plant the seedpieces 7 to 10 cm. deep in the furrows, at a 50 cm.
distance between plants. When holes are prepared instead of furrows, slip the seed pieces
into the holes and cover partially leaving the hollow around the plant.
5. For best results, select a field with alluvial loam
 HOW TO PLANT...
FERTILIZATION APPLICATION:
It is important to determine first the nutrient status of the soil before planting gabi. If the soil is rich in
organic matter, inorganic fertilizer may not be added. If the soil is rather poor, apply 30-30-30 kg/ha N,
P2O5, K2O or more if necessary. Apply 1/2 of the total fertilizer requirements upon planting and the other
half 2 months after planting. The same should be done for lowland culture but the field should first be
drained of water before fertilizer application. Side dressing brings better fertilizer effect in contrast to
broadcasting followed under upland culture. Under lowland culture, broadcasting is practical because
there is sufficient moisture to dissolve the fertilizer at once.
The amount and kind of fertilizer to use vary from place to place.
1. Apply 60-60-60 kg. of NPK/ha. to yield 30 tons/ha.
2. Use manure and compost when inorganic fertilizer is not available.
3. Mix organic fertilizer with the soil during land preparation and allow to decompost for 1 to
2 weeks before planting.
WEEDING AND CULTIVATION:
Gabi is especially sensitive to weed competition. In both lowland and upland cultures, the fields should be
rid of weeds particularly during the first 8-10 weeks after planting. However, weed competition after this
period should not be tolerated especially if plant canopy has not yet closed. For upland culture, weeds
can be controlled mechanically by hand weeding or by means of plowing the inter-row spaces during off
barring and hilling up operations. Chemical weed control is good as long as the plants are thoroughly
protected. For lowland culture, it is enough that weeds are properly controlled. This can be done by
regulating the water depth in the paddy. One good way of controlling weeds in upland gabi is by planting
intercrops. Legumes, especially mungo, is a good intercrop because of its short growing period and early
maturation before the gabi canopy closes.
PEST CONTROL:
Insect pests like aphids, army worms, hornworms and grasshoppers attacking gabi plants can be
controlled by spraying appropriate insecticides. For gabi disease like leaf blight, the application of
fungicides is an effective control practice. For plants that show symptoms of virus infection, removing and
burning the plants are good control measures.
HARVESTING:
Gabi plants should be harvested only when fully mature, that is when the leaves start yellowing and
drying up. The mother plant is carefully lifted cut of the ground, clinging soil is removed from the soil, and
the vegetative portion cut off. Time of harvest depends upon the variety used although normally upland
gabi matures earlier than lowland gabi. The best indication of maturity in gabi is the size of the corm. A
physiologically mature gabi plant has leaves turning yellowish and petioles becoming short but this should
not be mistaken for drought effect.

REFERENCES: http://bpi.da.gov.ph/bpi/images/Production_guide/pdf/GABI.pdf
https://businessdiary.com.ph/3519/how-to-grow-gabi/
 HOW TO PLANT...
2) LANGKA (JACKFRUIT)

Jackfruit scientifically known as Artocarpus heterophyllius, lam, locally known as “nangka” or “langka” is a
favorite dessert of Filipinos. It is one of the most widely grown fruit crops in the Philippines. It was
reported that this fruit is one of the famous in the world because it produces the largest edible fruit that
weighs as much as 50kg.

Many people believe that the leaves of the jackfruit tree can cure skin diseases. The bast of the tree is
utilized in making rope and clothing. Cebuanos use the wood of the jackfruit tree in making excellent
guitars and ukeleles, that’s why jackfruit orchards are becoming increasingly popular in Cebu. More and
more farmers are becoming aware of the versatility of the jackfruit and they are exploring still other
possible uses for it. Aside from food, the jackfruit is also used for commercial and noncommercial
purposes. The fruit, trunk, leaves, and roots can be utilized for household use or can be processed
commercially. The trunk can be used as lumber or building material. The leaves can be used as medicine,
fodder for animals, and compost. It latex can be used as paste or glue. The seeds can be used as food, for
human consumption, feeds or planting materials while the roots can be used as handle for farm
implements.

Jackfruit grows best in deep, sandy loam to clay loam soils of medium fertility with good drainage. Fertility
of the soils of medium fertility with good drainage. Fertility of the soil should be considered because of
the rapid exhaustion of soil nutrients taken by the plants. The ideal pH of the soil for jackfruit ranges from
5 to 6.5. Distinct variations have been observed by the National Seed Industry council in Los Baños,
Laguna and the Mandaue Experiment Station in Cebu city.

VARIETIES:

Several varieties of jackfruit are grown in the Philippines, however, the most important cultivars are the
Sinaba and Tinumbaga.

• Sinaba variety has thick flesh, small seed, and good eating quality.
• Tinumbaga variety has thinner flesh, a stronger aroma, and sweeter taste than Sinaba.
 HOW TO PLANT...
PROPAGATION:

Jackfruit is usually propagated by seeds or by asexual propagation. Farmers who propagate by seeds
should select healthy, vigorous, and disease-resistant seeds from productive mother trees. A sexual
propagation can be done by enriching or grafting. Among the grafting methods, cleft grafting appears to
be the most effective as it is able to counter the devastating effects of a typhoon which usually destroys
tall trees. A cleft grafted tree is high in genetic quality, grows short but strong in stature. It’s branches
tend to spread sidewards.

Plant seeds in seedboxes or tin cans. Clear and clean the field at least one year before transplanting
seedlings to a permanent site. A few weeks before planting, dig holes about 60 to 80 centimeters in
diameter and 40 to 50 centimeters deep. When planting, fill holes with fertile surface soil instead of
subsoil dug out of the holes.

Before transplanting, prune-two-thirds of the leaves of the seedlings. Cut leafy brnaches to prevent
excessive moisture loss and take special care when transplanting because the jackfruit has a delicate root
system.

Also, planting distance should be no less than 10 to 12 meters between trees. Remove all weeds within a
radius of one meter around the tree. Prune trees regularly to remove unnecessary twigs and branches.

FERTILIZATION AND IRRIGATION:

Growing seedlings need ample nitrogen fertilizer while bearing trees need regular applications of
phosphorous and potash.

1.) In the absence of soil analysis, apply as basal either manure or compost at the rate of 3kgs
per plant or 2 metric tons per hectare. One month after planting, apply 100-150g ammonium
sulfate per tree. After six months, apply an equal amount of 100-150g ammonium sulfate and
towards the end of the rainy season. Organic fertilizer is advisable to apply around the trees.
When trees start bearing fruits and during the start of the rainy season, apply 1/2kg-2kg
complete fertilizer and 200g-300g muriate or potash (0-0-60) per tree. Every six months
thereafter, apply complete fertilizer
at the rate of 1 1/2kg-3kg per tree.
2.) Water requirement is less critical in jackfruit production, however, irrigate the farm during
extreme drought.

WEEDING:

Periodic ring weeding and underbrush shall be done every three (3) months.
 HOW TO PLANT...
PRUNING:

Prune trees at two (2) years of age. Cut the top of the main stem leaving 2-3 meters above the ground to
regulate the height. Apply fungicide on resulting wounds. Pruning consists of the removal of small
unproductive branches as well as diseased and insect-damaged ones. Since fruits are usually produced on
the trunk and large branches, the removal of unwanted branches would give more light to the developing
fruits.

In Thailand, a uniform system of pruning is followed, that is, by pruning the main trunk well above the
bud union to induce the production of multiple branches close to the ground. Allow four or main
branches to grow to carry the fruits, instead of distributing the heavy fruits on the main trunk and the
smaller over to the side branches. This, system also opens the center of the tree for better light
penetration and air movement.

PEST AND DISEASES:

1.) Fruit fly – Like most fruit rrees, jackfruit is vulnerable to fruit fly infestation, a most destructive pest.
The fruit fly lays its eggs under the skin of the fruit and which hatch in 5-6 days. The larvae work their way
into the fruit, eventually causing rot and making it unfit for market. The larva comes out of the fruit and
falls to the ground to pupate in the soil. An adult lays about 100 eggs in one oviposition.

To control – Wrap fruits with empty cement bags or jute sacks. Spray wrappers with pesticide to reduce
fruit damage.

2.) Twig borer – Borers attack the twigs and cause the affected twigs to dry up. An adult borer is slight
gray in color and about 2 cm long.

To control – Cut off all affected shoots and twigs and destroy them by burning before spraying the tree
with the recommended insecticides with long residual effects. Spraying showed be done twice a month
depending on the degree of infestation.

3.) Another common pest is the Bark borer.

To control – This pest remove the dead branches where it lays its eggs. Spray the recommended
pesticides and bum affected twigs and dead branches.

4.) Jackfruit is also attacked by the Fungal pink disease, especially during the rainy season.

To prevent its spread, spray plants with sulphur fungicide at least twice a month during rainy season.
Always prune and burn severely affected branches.
 HOW TO PLANT...
HARVESTING:

Jackfruit bears fruit at three years old. About 10 fruits can be harvested the first time the tree bears fruit.

The following are indicators of fruit ripeness:

• when the last leaf on the stalk turns yellow;

• the fruit produces dull, hollow sounds when tapped;
• its well-developed and widely spaced spines yield to moderate pressure.

The time to harvest depends on how the fruit is to be Jackfruitused. If it’s for home consumption, pick
fruit when the rind is soft, emitting an aromatic odor, and when the leaf nearest the stalk turns yellow. At
this stage, the flesh of the fruit is yellow-orange, shiny and juicy. If you plan to sell the fruit, pick it when
mature but still firm and without aroma. At this stage, the flesh is pale-yellow and crisp.

Take extra care not to damage the fruit. When you cut the penduncle of the fruit with a sharp knife or
sickle, be sure another person wearing hand gloves to protect his hands from spines will assist. When
harvesting from tall trees, place the fruit in a sack to prevent it from falling to the ground. Tie a rope to
the stalk, snap the fruit from the tree, and slowly lower the bundle to the ground.

Harvesting should be done at mid – morning to late afternoon to reduced latex flow because, at this time
of the day, latex cells are less turgid. This would minimize latex stains which give the fruit an unsightly
appearance. Remove the retained peduncle and unwanted water sprouts from the trunk after picking the
fruit.

When handling the fruit, lay it against a railing with its stalk down to let the latex flow and coagulate. It is
best to transport the fruits in single layers. Always put dried banana leaves between fruits and spread
some on the container to prevent the fruits from getting bruises, scars, and breaks. Never insert a pointer
stick into the fruit’s stem. Many people in the rural areas believe this technique hastens ripening but this
has no basis. A cut on the stem only serves as an entry point for decay-producing organisms.
The fruit usually weighs from five to 15 kilogram; bigger ones weigh more. Fruit experts or pomologists
grade the fruit according to size: large, at least 20kg; medium, at least 15kg but no more than 20kg; and
small, at least 8kg but not more than 15kg. Another way of grading jackfruit is according to condition.
Grade No. 1 means that the fruit is fairly well-formed, free from damage by discoloration or scars, cuts,
skin breaks, diseases, and insects. Grade No. 2 means that the fruit has no specific shape, though free
from cuts, skin breaks, insects, and diseases.
 HOW TO PLANT...
Post-harvest operations:

1. Remove immature, over-ripe, damaged and misshapen fruits.

2. Grade the remaining fruits according to size as follows:
– Large: weighing 16 kg and above
– Medium: weighing 8 kg to 16 kg
3. Wash fruits using chlorinated water (100 ppm) to remove dirt, latex stains and any field contamination.
4. Drain fruits properly to remove excess moisture from the surface of the fruit for further processing or
storing.

Packaging and storage of fresh fruits:

Graded and washed fruits are packed into plastic containers or bamboo baskets for storage.

• Freshly harvested ripe fruits can be stored for 4 to 5 days at 25-35ºC.

• Fruits can be kept for 2 to 6 weeks at 11-13ºC and relative humidity of 85-95%, depending
on cultivar and maturity stage.
• Jackfruits stored at temperatures below 12ºC before transfer to higher temperatures show
injury due to chilling. This includes dark-brown discoloration of the skin, pulp browning, a
deterioration in flavour and increased susceptibility to decay.
Ripening:

Prior to the pre- or minimal processing, jackfruits should be ripened fully to achieve optimum aroma,
sweetness, taste and eating quality.
• Keep mature jackfruits at 24-27ºC. They will ripen in 3 to 4 days. However, uneven ripening is a major
problem in the natural ripening process, especially for large-sized fruits.
• To achieve more uniform ripening, expose fruits to 50 ppm ethylene for 24 hours at 25ºC. The fruits
ripen 3 to 4 days after the treatment with ethylene gas when kept at room temperature.

Pre-processing into fruitlets:

1. Cut fruits in half lengthwise. Latex may exude from the cut surfaces when extracting the flesh.
Coat hands, knives and work surfaces with vegetable oil to make clean-up easier.
2. Carve out the sticky central core.
3. Scoop out the individual fruitlets (bulbs).
4. Sort bulbs according to the required size, maturity and colour. Only full bulbs, (not half or partly
cut) are recommended for retailing.
5. Cut the end of the bulbs to remove the seeds according to consumers’ preference.
6. Pack fruitlets for storage for direct consumption.
 HOW TO PLANT...
Packaging and storage of jackfruit fruitlets:

• Jackfruit bulbs are packed in polythene bags which are heat-sealed or in polypropylene
containers with lids. They can be kept at 2ºC for 3 weeks.
• Maintain the chilled temperature of 2ºC throughout the distribution process to avoid
deterioration.

Pre-processing into pulp:

1. Crush de-seeded jackfruit bulbs using a blender.

2. Add 40-45 g of powdered sugar to every 100 g of smashed pulp and mix thoroughly.
3. Dry mixture in a hot air drier at 80-85ºC until moisture content reaches 20-22%.
4. Place pulp in plastic containers and seal.
5. Freeze pulp and store for further processing.

Packaging and storage of pulpl

• Pre-processed pulp is packed in polythene bags or in plastic containers. It can be kept for more than one
year when stored at -20 – -22ºC.

REFERENCE: https://businessdiary.com.ph/4294/jackfruit-production-guide/
 HOW TO PLANT...

3) KASUY (CASHEW)
In the Philippines, cashew is called kasoy or balubad in Tagalog or Balogo in Ilokano. It originated from
north-eastern Brazil and was brought to the Philippines in the 17th Century. At present, cashew is
cultivated in many tropical countries, the main producers are Brazil, India, Mozambique and Tanzania.

The cashew plant is an evergreen tree that grows up to 12 meters tall, with a dome-shaped crown or
canopy bearing its foliage on the outside, where flowers and fruits are found.

The growth of the taproot reaches a depth of 1.5-2 times the height of the plant during the first 4 months.
Extensive lateral roots are formed later and reach far beyond the canopy spread of the tree during the
first year of growth. In mature trees, the root volume is generally confined within the tree canopy. Very
few laterals are formed beyond the 6 meter drip-line of the tree.

The fruit has a kidney-shaped nut, about 3 cm x 1.2 cm attached to a much enlarged and swollen pedicel
or receptacle forming the fruit-like cashew apple. The cashew apple is pear-shaped, 10-20 cm x 4-8 cm,
shiny, red to yellow, soft, and juicy. The seed is kidney-shaped, with reddish-brown testa, two large white
cotyledons, and a small embryo. The kernel remaining after the removal of the testa is the cashew nut of
commerce.

Favorable Growing Conditions:

It can grow successfully in areas with a very distinct dry season or where the annual rainfall is as low as 50
cm. It can likewise grow well in areas with high levels of rainfall (as much as 350 cm annually) provided
the soil is well-drained.

Seed System:

1. Nursery Site
The nursery site should be well-drained and exposed to sunlight. It should have a good source of irrigation
water for the maintenance of the plant materials. It should be protected against stray animals.

2. Nut Selection
Nuts for planting should be obtained from mother trees of known performance. They should be fully
matured and of high density (heavy) grade to ensure good germination and vigorous seedlings. Seeds are
water tested; those that sink are chosen since they have higher viability and germinate quickly.

3. Sowing the Seeds

Cashew seeds expire easily. Dry and newly collected seeds must be sown/propagated as soon as possible
to prevent loss in viability. They are sown on individual polyethylene bags containing an equal mixture of
fine sand and organic matter.

Seeds are sown 5-10 cm deep with stalk end facing upward in slanting position. This prevents the
emerging cotyledons at the soil surface from being destroyed by rats, ants, snails, and birds.
 HOW TO PLANT...

4. Care of Seedlings
Seeds will germinate within 1 to 2 weeks after sowing. Excessive watering should be avoided. If seedlings
are week and stunted, urea solution at the rate of 10 tbsp per gallon of water should be applied.

The seedlings must be properly taken care of until they are ready for field planting or for use in asexual
propagation (grafting). Seedlings are ready for field planting when they have attained a height of 20-50
cm.

5. Propagation
Cashew can be propagated sexually or asexually. Asexual propagation can be done through airlayering,
inarching, marcotting or grafting. Grafting is the best method for large-scale asexual propagation of
cashew.

With cleft grafting, the seedlings are cut in traverse section (crosswise) and the remaining stem is cut
longitudinally (lengthwise). The scion from a selected mother tree cut into the shape of a wedge is put
between the two separated parts of the stem of the seedling, and the seedling and the scion are then
wrapped with a plastic ribbon.

Up to 100% success has been obtained with 10-week old seedlings. In Palawan, plant propagators can get
an average of 95% success in cleft grafting.

The use of young seedlings of about two months old result in more rapid takes, and the plants are ready
to be planted at the age of 3 ½ months.

Sexual propagation is done by sowing the seeds directly on individual polyethylene bags. It should be
done during the dry season so that the seedlings could be planted in the field at the start of the rainy
season.

Land Preparation:
For commercial purposes, the land should be thoroughly prepared. Plow the area 2-3 times followed by
harrowing until the desired tilth of the soil is attained. It should be done before the start of the rainy
season. For backyard or reforestation purposes, just underbrush the area and if possible collect all cut
grasses, shrubs, and other rubbishes and burn them. The soil should be cultivated properly in order that
the seeds may be sown with the required depth or that holes may be dug deep enough to bury the ball of
seedlings. Rows of cashew trees should be properly laid out with the proper distancing by placing markers
at the desired distance between hills in a row before digging the holes.
 HOW TO PLANT...

Crop Establishment:

1. Distance of planting
Distance of planting varies according to the purpose for which the trees are planted. For reforestation, 3m
x 3m is recommended to encourage early shading and to aid in smothering weeds.

For commercial plantings in the Philippines use 6m x 6m which is too close compared to the practice in
other countries.

Triangular planting was found to be most productive layout and should be tried. This method, however, is
rather difficult for farmers to follow.

High density planting gives more kernel per hectare up to age 7 years. Low density planting gives less per
hectare but more per tree.

a. Triangular (12m x 12m x 12m) = 79 plants/ha

An alternative and easier method is the quincunx arrangement and should also be tried.
b. Quincunx (15m x 15m) = 76 plants/ha
c. Square
The simplest recommended planting distances are 9m x 9m at the less fertile lower slopes and
10m x 10m at the more fertile lower slopes.

2. Lining, Stacking and Digging of Holes

Rows of cashew should be properly laid out by placing markers between rows and between hills in a row.

The holes should be dug a month before the planting of seedlings. The holes should have a dimension 20
cm x 20 cm.

3. Planting Time
In places with distinct dry and wet seasons, planting is best done at the start of the rainy season.
 HOW TO PLANT...

4. Planting
There are two methods of establishing cashew that may be employed. These are direct seeding and
transplanting of seedlings or sexually propagated materials.

In direct seedlings, 2 to 3 seeds are planted 5-10 cm deep with the stalk end facing upward and in a
slanting position. This prevents emerging cotyledons at the soil surface from the ravages of field rats,
ants, snails and birds.

Seeds are planted 30 cm apart in a triangular position when 3 seeds are used. The seeds will germinate 1-
2 weeks after sowing provided that the soil has sufficient moisture.

Thinning should be done leaving only the most vigorous plant to develop 1-2 months from germination.
Thinning is preferably done during the start of the rainy season.

When transplanting seedlings or sexually propagated materials, remove carefully the polyethylene plastic
before setting the seedlings in the holes.

Fill the holes with surface soil first and firm the soil at the base of the seedling carefully allowing the roots
to remain in as natural as possible.

5. Weeding and Cultivation

The plants should be cultivated and free from weeds at a distance of 1 meter around the trunk. The
orchard should be weeded as often as necessary. Cut grasses should be left in the area between the hills
to dry and to used later for mulching. Mulching helps conserve moisture around the plant during the
summer months, keep down the weeds and increase the amount of humus in the soil when decays.

6. Intercropping and Covercropping

A considerable part of the land is available for intercropping during the early years after the
establishment of the cashew orchard.

To provide sufficient protection from the heavy growth of weeds and grass, the spaces between rows may
be used for planting cash crops. This would enable the grower to earn additional income.

Annual crops can be interplanted between rows of cashew provided they are not closer than 2 meter
from the cashew tree.

When the growing of intercrops is no longer feasible, the field should be planted to leguminous
covercrops. The planting of covercrops will prevent further soil erosion, conserve moisture, and add
organic matter to the soil. The area within 1 to 1 1/2 meters from the trunk should be kept free from
weeds and covercrops should not be allowed to cling to the tree.
 HOW TO PLANT...

7. Pruning
Little pruning is practiced in cashew. However, it may be necessary to prune regularly to get the desirable
shape of the tree and to facilitate cultural operations.

It is also necessary to remove the diseased and infected branches and unnecessary water sprouts.

It is also necessary to remove the diseased and infected branches and unnecessary water sprouts.

8. Cut wounds should be properly treated with chemicals (coaltar) to facilitate healing and avoid
infections.

Nutrient Management:

It is advisable to apply fertilizers especially when soil analysis dictates specific soil nutrient deficiencies.

The general recommendations are the following:

Seedlings – At planting time apply complete fertilizer (14-14-14) before the seedlings are set in the
holes at the rate of 200-300 gm/plant.
Young Trees – Apply complete fertilizer at the rate of 300-500 gm/tree plus Urea (45-0-0) at the
rate of 200-300 gm/tree.
Bearing Trees – Apply complete fertilizer (14-14-14) at the rate of 1.5 to 3.0 kg/tree.
Recommended rate of fertilizer application is applied two times a year. One half of the total
requirement per tree should be applied at the start of the rainy season and the remaining half
should be applied toward the end of the rainy season.

On established trees, fertilizer should be dug with a depth of 1-10 cm. The fertilizer is then distributed
equally. Cover the holes/canal properly with soil to prevent the fertilizer from evaporating or from being
washed out by heavy rains.

Water Management:

Irrigation is needed during the first dry season. Unlike in the subsequent years, when the root system has
already been established and have reached the layer with sufficient moisture. For better yield, it is
advisable to irrigate the field regularly especially during summer.
 HOW TO PLANT...

Pest Management

Major Pests

Twig Borer (Niphonoclea albata N. /N. capito P.)

This insect pest are common during the dry season. The adult beetle girdles the small branches causing
them to dry up or break and drop to the ground. Its creamish larvae bore into the pith of the branches. As
they feed, they move downward until they pupate. All affected twigs and small branches may eventually
die.

Control Measure: Remove or collect all affected twig as well as dried twigs on the ground. Dispose them
properly by burning before applying chemical sprays. In using spray chemicals, mix 3-5 tbsp of Malathion,
Carbaryl and/or Methyl Parathion per 5 gallons of water. Repeat application at 7-10 days interval when
necessary.

Mealybugs (Gray Mealybugs – F. vigata) and Thrips (Red-banded thrips – Selen othrips rubrocintus
Glard)
These pests sucks the sap of young leaves and shoots. When severe infestation occurs, the tree is
weakened and the leaves and fruit may fall prematurely.

Control Measures: Spray trees with any insecticide commonly available at manufacturer’s recommended
dosage when there are signs of early infestation.

Leaf Miner (Acrocercops syngramma M.) – Young plants in the nursery and in the orchard are more
affected by these pests. Caterpillars of this silvery gray moth mine through the tender leaves, thus,
severely damaging them.

Control Measures: Spray 0.05% Phosphamidon at manufacturer’s recommended dosage as soon as

infestation is detected on new leaves.

Tea Mosquito (Helopeltis Antonil S.) – A reddish-brown mirid bug which normally appears at the time of
emergence of new growth and panicles. Nymphs and adults suck the sap from tender nuts.

Control Measures: Spray Malathion, Phosphamidon and/or Endosulfan at emergence of new growth and
inflorescence. A third spray may be done at the time of fruit setting to reduce immature fruit drops.

Saw-Toothed Grain Beetle (Cryzaephillus surinamensis L.) – This pest is known to attack the nuts during
storage.

Control Measures: Nuts should be thoroughly dried and placed in air tight containers. Surface treatment is
recommended. For finished products, fumigation is recommended.
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Slug Caterpillar (Lamantridae spp.) – The caterpillar feeds on the leaves causing semi-defoliation.

Termite – Termites attack the roots and the trunk of cashew trees. They burrow on the bark of roots and
branches especially of old trees. They build their soil mounds or nest on dead parts of the tree.

Control Measures: Soil mounds must be destroyed to locate the queen termite. The queen should be
killed either mechanically or by spraying with 2% Chlordane. Chlordane should not be applied on living
parts of the tree because of its long residual effect. Cistin powder could be applied to any part of the tree
infested with termites at the rate recommended by the manufacturer.

Major Diseases

Dieback or Pink Disease – This disease is caused by fungus Corticium salmonicolor B. that usually occurs
during the rainy season. Affected shoots initially show white patches on the bark; a film of silky thread or
mycelium develops. Later, the fungus develops a pinkish growth which are the spores that make the bark
split and peel off. Affected shoots start drying up from the tip.

Control Measures: All possible sources of innoculum should be removed. Affected shoots are pruned and
burned. Cut surfaces must be protected by applying Bordeaux moisture paste. The tree should also be
sprayed with fungicide at manufacturer’s recommended dosage.

Anthracnose – This disease is cause by fungus Collectorichum gloeospoides that usually infect tender
leaves, shoots, inflourescences, young fruits (apples) and young nuts. This disease is most prevalent when
there is excessive rainfall coinciding with the appearance of new growth and flowering. Infected parts in
its early stage show shiny, watersoaked lesions which later turn reddish-brown. At the lesion site,
resinous exudation can be seen. As the disease progresses, the lesions enlarge in size, all affected tender
leaves wrinkle, and the young apples and nuts become shrivelled. Inflorescences become black.

Control Measures: Remove all infected parts (source of innoculum) before spraying the tree with
fungicide at manufacturer’s recommended dosage of application.

Damping-off – This disease is caused by fungus Fusarium. This disease normally occurs in the nursery and
effects cashew seedlings especially when the soil medium gets too wet.

Control Measures: Seeds for planting should be treated with Arasan 75 at the rate of ¼ tsp per ganta of
seeds before sowing. Soil media for potting should be treated with soil fumingants.
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Harvest Management:

In the Philippines, cashew trees flower from November to March, while the harvest season is from
February to May and may extend up to early June. The quality of nuts and yield is dependent on weather
conditions during the fruiting stage. If it rains during the reproductive phase, poor quality nuts are
produced. Fruits are usually harvested manually, although a number of farmers wait for the fruits to drop
as the main concern of farmers is the nut. Nuts are picked from the ground, separated from the cashew
apple, cleaned and dried.

In places where cashew apples are processed into juice, wine and other delicacies, fruits are harvested
using a pole with a wire hook attached to its end. The pole is provided with a shallow net or cloth bag to
catch the detached fruits.

Processing and Utilization:

Nuts are roasted and eaten. At present, the only commercial scale use for the cashew apple is for
livestock feed. However, the cashew apple is now being processed into juice, candy, wine, jam, etc. but
only to a certain extent since the market for these end products is still in the development stage.

REFERENCE: https://businessdiary.com.ph/2670/cashew-production-guide/
 HOW TO PLANT...

4) BAY LEAF (BAY LAUREL)

Bay or sweet bay (Laurus nobilis) is the leaf from a tree in the Laurel family. It's an evergreen that
originated in the Mediterranean, where it grows to a height of 40 feet. Bay laurel is beautifully appointed
with medium sized, glossy, green leaves. It is not winter hardy in areas that experience freezing
weather. Luckily, bay can be cultivated in a container and brought indoors to overwinter. When potted, it
seldom grows taller than 6', but can be cultivated into a dense, rich specimen plant. Bay topiaries aren't
uncommon, and they can be very elegant on a deck or patio. That's the good news. The bad news is that
bay can be persnickety about its living conditions.

It prefers rich, well-drained soil that has a sunny exposure. Plant your tree away from other plantings.
Once it gets started, it will need room to spread out. This isn't a shrub. Because it's considered an herb,
it's easy to underestimate bay's growth potential. This is a tree that can last many decades, so give its
location some serious thought. Because it likes its soil relatively moist and doesn't like to dry out, consider
mulching, and don't forget to water it regularly while it's young.

Keeping Bay in a Pot

If you're planning on keeping your bay tree in a pot, avoid terracotta, and look for commercial potting soil
that has good water retentive characteristics, like water beads and vermiculite.

Plan on a 12" pot for a plant that's about eight inches high. Since bay is a slow grower, invest in a larger
plant if you can afford it. Bay can be pricey, but you'll be glad you paid a little more.

Growing Bay Leaf Indoors

Make sure your plant gets plenty of sun while it's spending time indoors. Remember, the quality of the
light in a room starts to drop sharply as you move back from the window, so give it plenty of clear, bright
light, or provide grow lights for it. Bay also dislikes drafts and hot spots, like those near heating vents or
exterior doors.

Don't fertilize outdoor specimens you are over-wintering inside. Wait until spring. If you are maintaining a
bay indoors year round, try putting it out on a patio for a couple of weeks in spring. A little time outdoors
each season will do it a world of good. To make the moving task easier, give it a base with casters. Your
back will thank you.

All this sounds like a pain, but a healthy, shiny, specimen can be a beautiful sight.

Propagating Bay Leaf Laurel

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Take stem cuttings (four or five inches), or air layer. The end of summer is the best time to start new
plants. The cuttings will have to be carefully nurtured; a conservatory where you can keep them in
uniformly humid conditions would be ideal. Transplant the following spring.

Harvesting Bay Leaf

You can start to harvest bay once the plant is a couple of years old. The leaves should be dried before use,
as fresh bay is bitter. The best wait time is around 48 to 72 hours from the time you pick a leaf. I know you
get long-dried bay leaves at the store, but the freshly dried leaves have better, deeper flavor. After all,
you aren't going to all this trouble for nothing.

Select the largest leaves. The older the leaf, the stronger the flavor will be.

Uses for Bay Leaf

Bay leaf is a favorite in cooking. It is commonly used whole in stews, sauces and soups. It can be used in
both mild and strongly seasoned dishes and works well with many other herbs and spices. Bay Leaf is one
of the key ingredients in Bouquet Garni, and ground bay leaf is the signature herb in Old Bay Seasoning.

Bay can also be used as a weevil deterrent. Place a few leaves in the cabinet where you keep your flour
and other grains to repel bugs.

It is a pungent addition to potpourri, and an ointment made from bay leaf can help reduce joint
inflammation. Bay also makes a very full and impressive base for an herb wreath.

REFERENCE: https://nature-and-farming.blogspot.com/search?q=LAUREL
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5) LINGA (SESAME)
Sesame (Tilseed, Cameline, German sesame, benniseed, dodder, linga)

Sesame (linga) oil is used, not only for cooking food, but also for the manufacture of other things, such as
margarine, soap, cosmetics, perfume, insecticides, pain and medicine. What is left after the extraction of
its oil is excellent for feed for poultry, hogs, goats, rabbits. Its protein content is 22%, besides other
substances.

There are many kinds of sesame.

The following varieties yield good harvest and abundant oil: Sri Lanka Black, Japanese Black, and Iligan
Marinduque Black, which are native to us. The white varieties that similarly yield good harvest and
abundant oil which are used for special cuisine, are: the Japanese White, Guatemala White, Mexican
White and our own native white variety. These are resistant to pests and diseases.

Sesame grows in warm weather. This will not thrive in temperature as low as 21°C. It can withstand dry
weather, but also needs watering as it grows.

Because sesame seeds are very tiny, it seeds should be planted shallow in soil, free from weeds, does not
retain water, and fertile.

The distance of the plants from one another should be one-half meter apart if the variety does not bear
branches, and 70-80 cm apart if it bears branches.

Mix the seeds with sand, and plant 5-10 seeds in a hole about 10-15 cm apart if it is branch-bearing, and
only 8-12 cm if it is not branch bearing. In one hectare of land, 4-6 kilos of seeds can be accommodated.

Irrigation is necessary in planting, but only once or twice after planting when it is growing. It needs
watering before flowering and before fruit bearing. The seeds germinate 5-7 days after sowing.
Two weeks after germination, remove some leaves and branches and transplant the plant. Leave only two
strong plants in every hill.

After 3-4 weeks when the plants are sturdy, loosen the soil (culture). Culture again when the plant is 30
cm high. Always remove the weeds because this will diminish the capacity for fruit bearing.

Apply fertilizer.

Sesame does not like humid and rainy place. In rainy season, it is vulnerable to disease, so choose only
varieties that are resistant.

Don’t plant sesame repeatedly in the same area after harvest, so as to avoid disease or pest.

Don’t use insecticide containing sulfur because this is not good for sesame.
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Harvest:

1. The sesame plant flourishes from 85-150 days. Harvest when flowering stops, and the leaves
turn yellow and fall off.
2. The pods burst out when these are ripe, so the seeds will scatter. Cut off the pods when still
green and bunch them.
3. Spread the branches on a mat and thick cloth and put these under the sun.
4. When dried, beat the branches to bring out the seeds. Clean off the stones and dirt, and
branches.
5. Dry the seeds before storing. If they are for planting, apply chemical on the seeds to keep pests
away.

REFERENCE: https://www.pinoybisnes.com/agri-business/sesame-seed-production-guide/