UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING &TECHNOLOGY LAHORE,
FAISALABAD CAMPUS
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING
BSc. Textile Engineering
Submitted by:
Anisa Shad (2023-TXE-02)
Talha Nadeem (2023-TXE-19)
Alishah Younas (2023-TXE-20)
Haris Riaz (2023-TXE-25)
Submitted To:
Eng. Dr. Haris Ameer
Semester:
3rd
Subject Title:
Weaving Preparatory Process
Subject Code:
TEX-203(Lab)
Table of Contents
Title................................................................................................................................................................3
Abstract..........................................................................................................................................................3
1. Introduction................................................................................................................................................3
1.1 Fabric appearance................................................................................................................................3
1.2 Fabric construction...............................................................................................................................3
1.3 Pick Glass.............................................................................................................................................4
2. Experimental..............................................................................................................................................4
2.1 Material................................................................................................................................................4
2.2 Equipment............................................................................................................................................5
2.3 Procedure.............................................................................................................................................5
3. Observation and calculation.......................................................................................................................5
Warp count.............................................................................................................................................6
Weft count..............................................................................................................................................6
Fabric Construction................................................................................................................................6
Crimp Percentage...................................................................................................................................6
4. Conclusion.................................................................................................................................................7
5. Precautions.................................................................................................................................................7
6. References..................................................................................................................................................7
Lab Report # 8
Title
To perceive the construction/quality of given woven fabric having different weave design.
Abstract
In this experiment, the construction and quality of woven fabric was measured. The warp count and the
weft count were measured. Ends per inch and Picks per inches were also calculated. The weave design
was also investigated by using pick glass. The crimp %age of warp and weft yarn was also measured.
1. Introduction
Weaving is defined as interlacement of warp and weft yarns. The term fabric can be defined as a planner
structure produced by interlaced/interloped yarns or fibers and felts made by interlocking fibers. Fabric
construction involves the conversion of yarns, and sometimes fibers, into a fabric having characteristics
determined by the materials and methods employed. Most fabrics are presently produced by some method
of interlacing, such as weaving or knitting. Weaving, currently the major method of fabric production,
includes the basic weaves, plain or tabby, twill, and satin [1]. All fabric produced by are characterized by
their construction. To find construction there are some processes.
1.1 Fabric appearance
In this process fabric is observed visually by looking swatches that it is finished or unfinished if it is
soft and have low hairiness means it is finished (also called processed) if is harsh and have more
hairiness then it is unfinished (also called Grey) and in loom state.
Bright and lustrous shined side of fabric is always named/considered as face side.
Check the direction of warp & weft yarn because ends and picks can be exchange.
Warp yarn is always perpendicular to the selvedges.
Weft yarn is always parallel to selvedges.
1.2 Fabric construction
After all these process the fabric operation done which included (warp & weft)counts, weave design,
fabric width, ends per inch, picks per inch.
℘ count X Wt count
Fabric construction = −Fabric widht−weave design
Ends per inch∗Picks per inch
We can find the construction of fabric if we have knowledge about followings
Warp count
Weft count
Ends per inch
Picks per inch
Weave design
1.3 Pick Glass
Pick glass is a magnifying glass for comparing and counting yarns in fabrics. Pick Glass is used to
determine the reed and pick in woven fabric. Reed is actually number of ends or number of warp threads
per inch and picks, we mean that number of picks or number of weft threads per inch. It has a 1 inch by 1
inch square which have scale to get more precise and easily in the same position of counting. There is a
needle with it by which we can count no. of ends and no. of picks.
Figure 1. Pick glass
2. Experimental
2.1 Material
Fabric swatch
2.2 Equipment
Pick glass
Nippers
Scissors
weighing balance
measuring scale
2.3 Procedure
First of all, the state of the fabric was Determined
Face and back of fabric was identified side of fabric by checking lustrous and bright side.
Fabric direction in which yarn had a higher twist was marked as a warp direction and other direction
was marked as a weft direction.
The yarn with high hairiness was considered weft yarn and the yarn with less hairiness than weft was
considered warp yarn.
The count of warp yarns and weft yarns was Determined separately by taking sample of warp and
weft taking weight of them then use formula:
length ( cm )
NeC ( warp )=0.00579 X X No . of warp samples
weight ( g )
length ( cm )
NeC ( weft )=0.00579 X X No . of weft samples
weight ( g )
Ends per inch was counted in warp direction by the help of pick glass. Ends per inch shows number
of warp ends.
Picks per inch were counted in weft direction by using pick glass. Picks per inch always show no. of
weft ends.
Crimp %age of warp and weft yarn was measured by measuring length of crimped or un crimped
yarn of warp and weft with measuring rule. We calculate it by using formula:
uncrimpped length−crimpped length
Warp crimpped %= X 100
crimpped length
With the help of pick glass, the weave design of the fabric was found.
3. Observation and calculation
By investigating the given 100 % woven fabric we have got different things in the fabric. Following are
the observations given below.
Sr.
Construction Parameters Values
No
1 Length of warp yarn 6.9 (cm)
2 Length of weft yarn 6 (cm)
3 No. of samples of warp yarn 10
4 No. of samples of weft yarn 10
5 Total weight of warp yarn 0.02 (g)
6 Total weight of weft yarn 0.02 (g)
7 Warp count 20.355
8 Weft count 17.7
9 No. of ends/inches 65
10 No. of picks/inches 67
11 Fabric width Not decided
12 Weave design 1/1
13 Length of un crimped yarn 63 inches
14 Length of crimped yarn 60 inches
Warp count
length ( cm )
NeC ( warp )=0.00579 X X No . of warp samples
weight ( g )
6.9 ( cm )
NeC ( warp )=0.00579 X X 10 = 20.355
0.02 ( g )
Weft count
length ( cm )
NeC ( weft )=0.00579 X X No . of weft samples
weight ( g )
6 ( cm )
NeC ( weft )=0.00579 X X 10=17.7
0.02 ( g )
Fabric Construction
warp count X weft count
Fabric Counstruction= −Fabric widht−weave design
Ends per inch X Picks per inch
20.355 X 17.7
Fabric Counstruction= −Fabric width−1/1
6 5 X 67
Crimp Percentage
uncrimpped length−crimpped length
C rimpped %= X 100
crimpped length
6 3−60
C rimpped %= X 100 = 5 %
60
The results we got that the woven fabric have crimp % about 5 % . And our fabric’s weave design is 1/1
means one weft and one warp interlacement. And fabric have 65 ends per inch and 67 picks per inch.
While warp yarn have 20.355 NeC and weft yarn have 17.7 NeC.
4. Conclusion
In this experiment, we found the construction/quality of the swatch of the fabric. We determined the warp
and weft of the swatch of the fabric. We found the face and back of the fabric. Then we found the warp
and weft count of the fabric. Then we saw the weave design by using pick glass.
5. Precautions
Listen to the instructor carefully.
Understand the problem carefully.
Perform calculations correctly.
6. References
[1] J. P. Cherneski, "Construction of a gripping fabric," James , vol. 454, p. 596, 2010.
[2] e. verma, "mytextilenotes," merriam-webster, 15 august 2010. [Online]. Available:
http://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2010/08/how-to-use-pick-glass.html. [Accessed 01 11 2020].
[3] P. Goyal, "Fabric Structure-Simplified Kindle Edition," Kindle Edition, 2014, p. 196 pages.
[4] Charles S. Whewell, “Development of Textiles and The Textile Industry”, England, 1963-77.
[5] Barber, E.J.W. (1991). Pre-historic Textiles Princeton University press. ISBN 0-691-00224-X.
[6] Burnham, Dorothy K. (1980). Warp and Weft: A Textile technology. Royal Ontario Museum. ISBN
0-88854-256-9.
