Yarn used is Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread size 10, 100% mercerized cotton.
Needle size US 0; 2 mm.
Knitted on circular needles using the magic loop method.
Terminology
K: knit
P: purl
Kfb: knit front and back
Kbf: knit back and front
Kfbf: knit front and back and front (2 increases)
K2tog: Knit two together
Skp: slip, knit, pass slipped stitch over the knit stitch
Start with the head (circumcised version):
CO 6, leave about 3 inch yarn tail
row 1: k6 (I distributed 2 stitches on one side and 4 on the other of the magic loop. The
large space in next instructions indicates a separate “needle”/side of the magic loop).
row 2: kfb all sts (12 stitches)
row 3: k
row 4: k2, m1R, k2, kfb, k3, m1R, k3, kbf
row 5: k1, kfb, p1, kbf, k1 kfb, k3, m1R, k3, m1L, k3, kbf (22 stitches)
row 6: k3, p1, k the rest
row 7: k2, kfb, p1, kbf, k2 kfb, k13, kbf (26 stitches)
row 8: k4, p1, k the rest
row 9: k3, kfb, p1, kbf, k3 kfb, k5, m1R, k5, m1L, k5, kbf (32 stitches)
row 10: k5, p1, k the rest
row 11: k4, kfb, p1, kbf, k4 kfb, k19, kbf (36 stitches)
row 12: k6, p1, k the rest
row 13: k5, kfb, p1, kbf, k5 k23 (38 stitches)
row 14: k7, p1, k the rest
row 15: k6, kfb, p1, kbf, k the rest (40 stitches)
row 16: k8, p1, k the rest
row 17: skp, k5, kfb, p1, kbf, k5, k2tog k the rest (40 stitches)
row 18: k8, p1, k8 k2tog, k6, kfb, k5, kbf, k6, skp (40 stitches)
row 19: k6, k2tog, m1R, p1 m1L, skp, k6 k5, kfb, k5, kfbf, k5, kbf, k5 (44 st.)
row 20: k7, p3, k the rest
row 21: k7, p3, k7 k5, m1R, k5, kfb, k5, kbf, k5, m1L, k5 (48 stitches)
row 22: p17, k the rest
row 23: p
row 24: p
row 25: (k1, k2tog) x16 (32 stitches)
row 26: (k2tog, k2) all around (24 stitches)
row 27: k
row 28: k
row 29: (kfb, k1) x 12 (36 stitches)
row 30: k
row 31: (k8, kfb) x4 (40 stitches)
Shaft:
You now have 40 stitches. Redistribute those stitches evenly so there are 20 stitches on
both needles, making sure the center is aligned. (The stitch aligned with the column of
purl stitch should be in the middle of one needle)
Knit in the round until the total length is around 3 to 4,5 inches, depending on how long
you want the penis to be.
Making of the opening that will be used for stuffing
Row 1: k22, take scrap yarn and knit 16 stitches with it (those stitches will be picked up
afterward in the manner of an afterthought heel), Slip those 16 stitches back on left hand
needle, k the rest
Row 2: k22, p16, k2
Testicles
*For this part, remember to put the yarn toward the back when slipping the center stitch. I
also did my M1R and M1L with a purl when in purl section, I don’t know if there’s a
specific name for that. Parentheses in this section indicate a different needle.
Row 3: k all around (40 stitches, 20 evenly distributed on each needle)
Row 4: (k10, m1R, k 10), (p10, m1R, p10)
Row 5: k
Row 6: (k10, m1R, k1, m1L, k10), (p10, m1R, k1, m1L, p10)
Row 7: (k11, s1, k11) x2
Row 8: (p11, m1R, k1, m1L, p11) x 2
Row 9: (p12, s1, p12) x2
Row 10: (p12, m1R, k1, m1L, p12) x 2
Row 11: (p13, s1, p13) x2
Row 12: (p13, m1R, k1, m1L, p13) x 2
Continue in that manner for several rows until you have 70 stitches (35 on each needle):
Row 13: (purl until the center stitch, s1, purl the rest of the needle) x2
Row 14: (purl until the center stitch, m1r, k1, m1l, purl the rest of the needle) x 2
...
Now that you have 70 stitches, repeat these two rows until the length of the testicles (the
purl section) reaches 2 to 2,5 inches.
Row 15: (purl until the center stitch, S1, purl the rest of the needle) x2
Row 16: (purl until the center stitch, K1, purl the rest of the needle) x2
…
Now, to get a heart shape, one half of the stitches (one testicle) will be knitted first and
the other put on a life line, to be picked up after.
Row 17:
First needle: purl until before the center stitch, slip the center stitch on the right hand
needle—transfer the rest of the stitches on a scrap of yarn
Second needle: continue transferring the stitches on the scrap of yarn until before the
second center stitch. Knit the two “center stitch” together, purl the rest of the
needle.
Decreases (One testicle)
Row 18: (p3, p2tog) all around
Row 19: p
Row 20: (p2tog, p2) all around
Row 21: p
Row 22: (p1, p2tog) all around
Row 23: p
Row 24: p2tog all around
You now have 7 stitches. Cut off the yarn and pass through the stitches to close. Tie and
hide/weave the end inside.
For the other testicle, pick up the stitches left on the scrap yarn,
Knit the two “center stitch” together, purl the rest of the stitches.
Repeat rows 18–24.
Opening for stuffing
With needle 1, pick up 16 stitches on one side of the waste yarn.
With needle 2, pick up 16 stitches on the other side of the waste yarn.
Remove the waste yarn.
Row 1: (Pick up one stitch at the beginning of the needle, purl, pick up one stitch at the
end of the needle) x 2
Row 2: k
Row 3: p
Row 4: cast off all the stitches (18) on the needle of the testicle side, and knit the other
needle.
Flap for the enclosure of the opening
Now you’re knitting flat;
Row 5: Slip the first stitch, knit.
Repeat the row 5 for 18 rows.
Decreases to create a “V” shape:
Row 6: Skp, k
Repeat row 6 until you have 8 stitches left.
Cast off and weave in the ends.
