A soft packer is a prosthetic made to look
like a non-erect penis and is used to create
a bulge in a person’s pants. Usually, most
packers sold on the market are made out of
silicone, which may not be an option for
some, as it can sometimes be irritating, hot,
sticky, heavy, expensive, etc. With this
pattern, you can make your own packer and
you can adjust the size, and the amount of
stuffing to suit your needs. Overall, the
materials can be found for more or less 15$,
which makes it a great inexpensive
alternative.
It is knit top-down (starts at the tip and
finishes with testicles), no seaming, with an
opening flap to allow stuffing and de-stuffing for washing the packer when needed. The
opening is created with the afterthought method. The skills required to make this
pattern includes: knits & purl, cast-on & bind-off, increasing & decreasing, working small
circumferences in the round on circular needles with magic loop, knitting flat, short rows,
putting stitches on a lifeline, picking up stitches.
Materials Needed
Yarn used is Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread size 10, 100% mercerized cotton. You can use
any size 10 cotton thread or smooth lace weight yarn that gives you the same gauge. I
choose to use cotton fibers based on these recommendations;
• it is strong (mercerized cotton is stronger than regular cotton), so it will last longer.
• It has less risks of allergies, which makes it a great choice for sensitive skin, and it is
ideal if you are making it for someone that you don’t know.
• It takes dye really well.
• Size 10 cotton thread is easy to find in most craft stores and is less expensive than
most fibers.
1
You will need around 137 to 183 meters of yarn (150
to 200 yards); plus a length of smooth scrap yarn in a
contrasting color to insert lifelines.
Needles Circular needles size US 0 / 2 mm with a 50
cm (20”) cable or longer (as long as it’s long enough
to do a magic loop).
Filling can be polyester fibers or plastic pellets or
flaxseeds. See recommendations at the end.
Dye, if you want to dye your packer to make it more
realistic-looking.
Dimensions of the packer pictured: Length from
the tip to the base is 9,5 cm (3,75”) and girth is 10 cm (4”).
Gauge is:
40 stitches and 60 rows make 10 cm by 10 cm in stockinette stitch worked in the round.
- Glossary -
Tip: If you don’t know how to do any of these techniques, I suggest you look for videos
on the internet, YouTube is full of useful tutorials.
• Cast on
• Bind off
• Magic Loop
• Lifeline
• Afterthought (heel)
• Short rows
• Wrap and turn
• K = knit
• P = purl
• KFB = knit front and back (increase one stitch)
• KBF = knit back and front (increase one stitch)
• M1R = Make one right (increase one stitch)
• M1pR = Purl equivalent of a Make one right (increase one stitch)
• M1L = Make one left (increase one stitch)
• M1pL = Purl equivalent of a Make one left (increase one stitch)
• K2tog = Knit two together (decrease one stitch)
• P2tog = purl two together (decrease one stitch)
• S = slip one stitch as if to purl but with yarn at the back
• SKP = slip one stitch, knit one stitch, pass slipped stitch over the knit stitch
(decrease one stitch)
2
- Starting with the head -
Cast on 6, Join in the round
Row 1: K6 and distribute your stitches accordingly: 2 first stitches on needle 1 and 4 last
stitches on the second needle, with the magic loop in between.
Row 2: KFB all stitches (12 stitches)
Row 3: K all stitches
Row 4: needle 1: K2, M1R, K2, needle 2: KFB, K3, M1R, K3, KBF
Row 5: needle 1: K1, KFB, P1, KBF, K1 needle 2: KFB, K3, M1R, K3, M1L, K3, KBF (22
stitches)
Row 6: K3, P1, K the rest
Row 7: needle 1: K2, KFB, P1, KBF, K2 needle 2: KFB, K13, KBF (26 stitches)
Row 8: K4, P1, K the rest
Row 9: needle 1: K3, KFB, P1, KBF, K3 needle 2: KFB, K5, M1R, K5, M1L, K5, KBF (32
stitches)
Row 10: K5, P1, K the rest
Row 11: needle 1: K4, KFB, P1, KBF, K4 needle 2: KFB, K19, KBF (36 stitches)
Row 12: K6, P1, K the rest
Row 13: K5, KFB, P1, KBF, K28 (38 stitches)
Row 14: K7, P1, K the rest
Row 15: K6, KFB, P1, KBF, K the rest (40 stitches)
Row 16: K8, P1, K the rest
Row 17: needle 1: SKP, K5, KFB, P1, KBF, K5, K2tog needle 2: k the rest (40
stitches)
Row 18: needle 1: K8, P1, K8 needle 2: K2tog, K6, KFB, K5, KBF, K6, SKP (40
stitches)
3
Row 19: needle 1: K6, K2tog, M1R, P1 M1L, SKP, K6 needle 2: K5, KFB, K5, M1R,
K1, M1L, K5, KBF, K5 (44 st.)
Row 20: K7, P3, K the rest
Row 21: needle 1: K7, P3, K7 needle 2: K5, M1R, K5, KFB, K5, KBF, K5, M1L, K5
(48 stitches)
• Short row 1: once you reach the end of row 21; wrap and turn the work, S1, P29
• Short row 2: wrap and turn, S1, K29, resume working in the round
Row 22: P
Row 23: P
Row 24: P
Row 25: (K1, K2tog) x16 (32 stitches)
Row 26: (K2tog, K2) all around (24 stitches)
Row 27: K
Row 28: K
Row 29: (KFB, K1) x 12 (36 stitches)
Row 30: K
Row 31: (K8, KFB) x4 (40 stitches)
Row 32: K
If you plan to add a foreskin (later in the pattern), inserting a lifeline here will make
picking up stitches easier.
- Shaft -
You now have 40 stitches. Redistribute those stitches evenly so there are 20 stitches on
both needles, making sure the center is aligned (The stitch aligned with the column of
purl stitches made on needle 1 should be more or less in the middle of needle 1, with 20
stitches on each needle). Knit in the round until the total length is around 3,5 to 4
inches, or longer, depending on how much length you want.
4
- Placement of the opening that will be used for stuffing –
*This section is made in the same manner of the setting up of an afterthought heel; looking up a
video of this technique could be helpful if needed.
Row 1: K22, take a scrap of smooth yarn and knit 16 stitches with it (those stitches will
be picked up afterward in the manner of an afterthought heel), Slip those 16 stitches
back on left hand needle, K the rest
Row 2: K22, P16, K2
- Scrotum & Testicles -
*For this part, remember to always put the yarn toward the back when slipping the center
stitch.
Row 3: K all around (40 stitches, 20 evenly distributed on each needle)
Row 4: needle 1: K10, M1R, K 10 needle 2: K1, P9, M1R, P9, K1 (42 stitches)
Row 5: (K10, S1, K10) x2
Row 6: needle 1: K10, M1R, K1, M1L, K10 needle 2: P10, M1pR, K1, M1pL, P10 (44
stitches)
Row 7: (K11, S1, K11) x2
Row 8: (P11, M1pR, K1, M1pL, P11) x 2 (46 stitches)
Row 9: (P12, S1, P12) x2
Row 10: (P12, M1pR, K1, M1pL, P12) x 2 (48 stitches)
Row 11: (P13, S1, P13) x2
Row 12: (P13, M1pR, K1, M1pL, P13) x 2 (50 stitches)
Repeat rows 13 and 14 until you have 70 stitches (35 on each needle):
Row 13: (purl until the center stitch, S1, purl the rest of the needle) x2
Row 14: (purl until the center stitch, M1pR, K1, M1pL, purl the rest of the needle) x 2
5
Now that you have 70 stitches, repeat rows 15 and 16 until the length of the testicles
(the purl section) reaches 2,5 to 3 inches, or longer depending on how big you want the
testicles.
Row 15: (purl until the center stitch, S1, purl the rest of the needle) x2
Row 16: (purl until the center stitch, K1, purl the rest of the needle) x2
- Set up for the decreases -
To get a heart shape at the bottom of the scrotum, one half of the stitches (one
testicle) will be knitted first and the other put on a life line, to be picked up after.
Row 17: needle 1: purl until just before the center stitch, slip the center stitch on the
right hand needle—transfer the rest of the stitches on a scrap of yarn.
needle 2: continue transferring the stitches on the scrap of yarn until before the
second center stitch. Knit the two “center stitch” together, purl the rest of the needle.
- Decreases; Closing one testicle -
Row 18: (P3, P2tog) all around
Row 19: P
Row 20: (P2tog, P2) all around
Row 21: P
Row 22: (P1, P2tog) all around
Row 23: P
Row 24: P2tog all around
You now have 7 stitches. Cut off the yarn and pass through the stitches to close. Tie and
weave in the end.
For the other testicle, pick up the stitches left on the scrap yarn,
Knit the two “center stitch” together, purl all stitches.
Repeat rows 18–24.
6
- Making the opening for stuffing -
With needle 1, pick up 16 stitches on one side of the waste yarn.
With needle 2, pick up 16 stitches on the other side of the waste yarn.
Remove the scrap yarn.
Row 1: (Pick up one stitch at the beginning of the needle, purl, pick up one stitch at the
end of the needle) x 2
Row 2: K all around
Row 3: P all around
Row 4: Bind off 18 stitches (all stitches that are on the needle on the scrotum side), and
knit the rest.
- Making the flap for the enclosure of the opening -
* Now you’re knitting flat.
Row 5: Slip the first stitch, knit the rest.
Repeat row 5 for 18 times.
Row 6: SKP, K the rest.
Repeat row 6 until you only have 8 stitches left.
Bind off and weave in the ends.
Extra step: If you want the pocket to be extra secure, you could sew on a little press stud on the
inside of the testicles; with the other half on the flap so it would keep shut when worn and no
button would be exposed on outside of the packer. But it also works just fine without a button.
- Foreskin -
Pick up 40 stitches, 3 rows down the base of the glans. If you previously placed a lifeline
there, pick up the stitches where the lifeline is.
Row 1: K all around (40 stitches)
Row 2: (KFB, K19) x 2 (42 stitches)
Row 3 – 17: K all around
Row 18: (K2tog, K19) x 2 (40 stitches)
Row 19: K all around
Row 20: (K2tog, K8) x 4 (36 stitches)
7
Row 21: K all around
Row 23: (K2tog, K4)x 6 (30 stitches)
Row 24: P all around
Row 25: (P2tog, K3) x 6 (24 stitches)
Row 26: P all around
Row 27: Bind off purling
Cut the thread and weave in ends.
Voilà!
Tips:
• You can put the stuffing in a nylon sock
before filling the packer in order to
prevent the material from poking through
the knitted fabric. You can fill your packer
with fiber stuffing, plastic pellets, rice or
flaxseeds. Feel free to experiment!
• When knitting in the round with cotton,
expect laddering! Cotton is not stretchy
like wool. A way I’ve found to counteract
laddering is to put the packer, once
finished, 10-15 minutes in the drier. It will
make the cotton stiffer and shrink a little
bit, just enough to reduce the ladder, but
be careful not to shrink it too much!
Wash and care: Hand wash with delicate soap. Roll up in a towel to absorb excess
water, shape and then lay flat to dry.
©Marianne Fournier, 2020
Ravelry : MarianneFournier
Instagram : mafougirl
