ami isu

ISSUE 16 - SUMMER 2018

Craft City Guide to

New England

Watercolors
Fiona Alice
Alice Caetano
Joan Forgione
Maddie Harvey
Bernice Lim
Amy Miller
Andrea Mowry
Orlane Sucche
Astrid Troland
Holli Yeoh

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 © amirisu co. 2018
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced
without written permission from the publisher, except
by a reviewer who may quote brief passages in a review
with appropriate credits; nor may any part of this book
be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted
in any form or by any means - electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording, or other- without written
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designer's and the publisher's consents.

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 CREDIT
Photography Masahiro Kohda (photos with models and plants)
Other graphics and illustrations, except otherwise credited, are by Meri
Hair & Makeup Yoko Yoshikawa
Models Hiromi and Yuka
Styling Misato Sakamoto / Meri Tanaka
Dress (p. 17 / 18) & pants (p. 24 / 130) courtesy of TESHIKI (teshiki.com)
Editorial, Graphic Design Meri Tanaka
Copywriting Meri Tanaka, except credited otherwise on respective pages
Production Supervision Tokuko Ochiai
Project Coord./Crt. Tech Edit Hiromi Onishi / Tokuko Ochiai / Keiko Kikuno
Laura Chau / Masae Morihama
Proof Reading Laura Chau / Keiko Kikuno / Hiromi Onishi (patterns)
Patricia Hurley / Kevin Jemison / Tokuko Ochiai (copy)
CAD Operation Shino Uchiyama
Pattern Layout Tokuko Ochiai / Meri Tanaka
Test Knitting Marceline Wu / Inês Cruz / Junko Yanagimoto / Saeko Kanza
Hideko Omori / Minako Terakawa / Yukie Matsumoto / Hiromi Nagasawa
Tomoko Yamazaki / Susanne Gulde / Carolyn K. Williams
Anjanette Cooper-Mitchel
Translation Hiromi Onishi / Keiko Kikuno (pattern)
Meri Tanaka (copy)

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 16
S 2018

CONTENTS
Features Patterns
37 CRAFT CITY GUIDE TO 12 WANDERLUST
NEW ENGLAND 13 | 95 Ekuni
Elizabeth Duvivier amirisu
19 | 98 Spring Moon
77 HANDMADE EVERYTHING Andrea Mowley
Candle Making 21 | 101 Bird
79 LORI'S NOTEBOOK amirisu
81 A CAFFEINATED KNITTER 25 | 103 Luberon
83 THE NEXT SEWING PROJECT Bernice Lim
Repurposed Zipper Bag 29 | 107 Minamikaze
Alice Caetano
5 PRELUDE 32 | 110 Lady Slippers
8 NEW PRODUCTS Fiona Alice
9 LOCAL CRAFT SHOP 54 CHILLOUT
76 BOOK REVIEW 55 | 113 Summer in Norway
86 THROUGH THE LENS Biches & Bûches
87 CONTRIBUTORS 59 | 115 Yunagi
90 EDITORS Holli Yeoh
93 ABBREVIATIONS & PATTERN NOTES 61 | 119 Suiren
Orlane Sucche
65 | 122 Wings of the Dove
Joan Forgione
67 | 124 Loie
Maddie Harvey
71 | 128 Yuri
Amy Miller

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 Prelude

Spring came to Kyoto earlier than usual this year. Around mid-April, cherry
blossoms are long gone and summer is already starting. As the temperature
rises, I become more energized, and eager to try out all the projects I've read
about and imagined about in the long winter. It's time act on my ideas, and
try something new as my energy awakens.
This is the 16th issue of amirisu . We began as an online magazine in 2012,
and became a print magazine two years later. Over the past four years,
we've printed ten issues with the same format, tweaking here and there,
experimenting with different ideas. Now it's time for a big change! The
freedom to produce what we like, the continual reinvention was the whole
point of starting our own business. I detest repetition. Every year, we've tried
something different, but this time, Tokuko and I decided on a more drastic
change. This summer seems like a good time for it.
We strive to offer a sophisticated collection of knitwear patterns, using the
yarns that we truly enjoy, along with new ideas and exciting content for our
readers. A larger format provides a better canvas for us to realize this.
The twelve patterns in this issue showcase the modern pastels - we like to call
them watercolor - to wear this summer. We both usually prefer stronger colors
- navy or red in winter, yellow and bright green in summer - but this year, we'd
like to use more feminine colors like pale pink and ivory, learninghow to style
them using our existing wardrobes.
In keeping with the watercolor theme, we invite you on a New England road
trip, splashing your feet in Squam Lake while sitting on the dock knitting,
eating ice cream on a Cape Cod beach, and enjoying live music in downtown
Portland. Elizabeth Duvivier, founder of Squam Art Workshops, curates our
irresistable guide to New England. If you've never had the opportunity to
explore the lesser known destinations of this quaint corner of the USA, you're
in for a treat!
Open you window, let the fresh air in and grab your knitting for another
travel adventure!

Meri Tanaka Jemison

Editor

Artwork by Maya Durham

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 Gorgeous knitting, crochet & embroidery supplies

LOOPKNITTING.COM
15 CAMDEN PASSAGE, ISLINGTON, LONDON, ENGLAND
8
 New Products

All Purpose Carrying Case Tape Measure

Twig & Horn Cohana
Designed for carring needles that don't fit into their existing In my experience, there are two groups of people who carry tape
interchangeable set cases, this is the perfect solution for your stray measures everywhere, architects and knitters. Unlike the former,
DPNs (I only have US 0 and 1, and didn't know where to put them until knitters get to choose one with beautiful craftmanship. This new
now), or scissors that keep stabbing the sides of pouches (2 slanted product from a Japanese company, Cohana, is embossed with a floral
pockets are perfect for them.) I love the leather string on this one. $65 pattern, using the traditional Yuzen method on leather. ¥4,000 (JPY)

Leather Pouch Machine Sewing Thread

Fringe Supply Co. DARUMA
This cleverly-designed stitch-maker pouch has been a staple in When you are starting a new sewing project, you just want to start,
knitters' project bags. It's no secret that I own two of these leather right? Winding a bobbin is such a pain... besides, where is an unused
pouches already - the original one and the black & white special edition bobbin anyway? I am for one very excited about this new sewing
one. These gorgeous new colors that Karen has just released presented thread. It comes in 96 beautifully nuanced colors. ¥320 (JPY)
me with an excuse to get another for my third knitting bag. $28

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Photo Credit: This page by Victoria
Pearson. Opposite page by Keri
Oberly
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 Local Yarn Shop

Cattywampus
Ojai, CA, USA

Cattywampus (derived from catawampus) describes Ojai, yet working elsewhere, the couple realized they wanted
something slightly askew, not quite perfect, perhaps a little to offer a more personal, meaningful contribution to their
wonky and playful, implying the process and movement akin community. Originally, they envisioned a yarn shop, but
to the creative path. It’s an apt description for those of us the idea quickly turned into the desire to offer an inspiring,
admiring and eventually pursuing a handmade life, and it’s creative space to satisfy the maker in all of us. With their
the inspiration for the name of the shop and creative space in belief in the inherent human need to create, regardless of
Ojai, CA. ability, Cattywampus became the local spot to gather and do
this, inclusive and welcoming to all makers and admirers of
Anna and Kirk Nozaki both worked at the intersection of the beautiful things, beginning and seasoned creators alike. The
graphic, fashion, and home design fields in Los Angeles and shop features a variety of handmade goods and clothing, and
New York, before landing in Ojai. With a young daughter, the also provides the materials (natural fibers, yarns, patterns,
couple were drawn in by the area’s natural beauty and small tools, fabrics and dyes) and opportunities to inspire the
town feel, reminiscent of Anna’s childhood. universal creator in all of us.

The community of makers, dreamers and independent 209 W Ojai Ave, Ojai, CA 93023
spirits attracted them, and ultimately led to the birth of cattywampuscrafts.com
Cattywampus. Living and enjoying the beauty and spirit of

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 Wanderlust
Upgrade your summer travel wardrobe

"The Wanderlust has lured me to the seven lonely seas,

Has dumped me on the tailing-piles of dearth;
The Wanderlust has haled me from the morris chairs of ease,
Has hurled me to the ends of all the earth."
––The Wanderlust . Robert W. Service, 1912.

Photographs by Masahiro Kohda

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 Ekuni
amirisu

My go-to garment for summer is a short-sleeve knit cardigan that you

can layer. In May, I usually wear it under my schoolboy jacket, then by
itself when it gets warmer, and in summer, I wear a tank underneath
for protection from icy air-conditioning. This particular piece can be
worn backwards, offering more styling possibilities. amirisu’s new yarn,
Parade, feels cool to the touch and makes for great summer wear.
The clean neckline reminds me of the serene and independent female
character in Kaori Ekuni’s novel.

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 Parade, my love
We've dreamt of the perfect summertime yarn to knit with, yet
have had no luck finding it. There are those who love wool year-
round, others can't tolerate it, especially in summer. Linen is their
go-to summer fiber. We are actually a little bit of both. Summer in
Kyoto is truly, excruciatingly hot. Ideally, we want to wear linen but
we want to knit with wool.

That's how Parade, amirisu's new yarn, came to be. Blending the
materials we love, with a little bit of sugar, happy memories and
magic, our fingering baby turned out to be the best yarn we could
ever imagine for the warmer weather. It is a little bit of everything -
wool, cotton, linen and silk. We love it so much it makes us want to
celebrate, and that's how the name Parade came about.

The raw materials are globally sourced as not all (linen and wool)
are commercially available locally, but the yarn is spun and hand-
dyed in Japan. Due to the unique quality of the yarn (a complicated
blend of plant and animal fibers), figuring out the dyeing process
was a series of trials and errors. Sometimes shades were too
pale, while other times colors were not what we anticipated.
After spending several months at the lab, we finally achieved our
envisioned palette.

This may be just a one-batch thing, or we may add more colors

in the future - we are undecided, but hope you will get an
opportunity to work with Parade, which we believe is pure
pleasure!

Parade by amirisu
60% wool, 20% cotton, 10% silk, 10% linen.
100 grams, 420yards / 384m

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 Spring Moon
Andrea Mowry

I am smitten with the buttons on the back. The boat-neck, dropped

shoulders, and relaxed body make this cardigan a standout. The yarn
I chose for this already-a-favorite piece is Mungo, a wool-cotton blend
I have been dying to try. The rustic texture of the yarn is perfect for the
strong sunlight of a Portuguese summer. Go for a larger size when you
are in between sizes - oversized is in style.

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 Bird
amirisu

The lace pattern across the shoulders reminds me of a flock of birds

on takeoff, or flower petals floating on water. The name “Bird” came
from the English explorer, Isabella Bird. Traveling by herself around
the world in the 19th Century, she is an icon to match the spirit of
Wanderlust Linen. I dream of a solo travel to a southern island wearing
this cardigan.

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Story of Wanderlust

This is the second season of our Linen yarn, Wanderlust,

debuted in Spring 2017. It is a crisp, airy chainette yarn, cool
to the touch, our first-born, so we have a special feeling for
her.

We confess that the first thing we did when planning this

yarn was coming up with color names. We decided to name
them after places we long to visit one day, places we read
about in history books. Cartago was the first to come to
mind. We imagined ourselves as great explorors -where
would we go, if we could go anywhere on earth? The Arctic,
Russia, Africa, China...? Our sense of wanderlust became even
stronger.

Wanderlust. Garments knit with this yarn are light-weight

and great for traveling. We picture ourselves wearing a
relaxed-fit tee knit in Wanderlust on Greek Islands, or as a
shawl in the mountains of Bali.

More colors will be added this year, meaning we get to

explore more dream destinations again!

Wanderlust by amirisu
100% linen
50g, 268 yards / 245m

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 Luberon
Bernice Lim

Habu 2/17 Tsumugi demonstrates how silk yarn can create varied
textures, depending on how it is processed. This summer tunic is
featherlight against your skin. Lace details on shoulders and side hems
are delicate and beautiful. Now I am trying to decide whether I should
dress it up by layering it over a long underdress, or dress it down by
wearing the tunic with wide pants.

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 Minamikaze
Alice Caetano

When summer comes, the first thing I have to figure out is what to knit.
I want to knit wool year-around, except during the height of summer.
Linen yarns like Linea from WalkCollection work perfectly for sweltering
daysand the little bit of alpaca content creates beautiful drape. I am
bringing this yarn and needles on my next southern beach vacation.

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 Lady Slipper
Fiona Alice

Fiona told us that she wanted to make something delicate like Lady
Slipper flowers. A hand-dyed silk ribbon is threaded through the lace-
patterned hem, to be tied in front. The cropped length makes it perfect
to wear with wide pants or gathered skirts. I love it in the sweet pink of
amirisu’s new Parade yarn.

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 New book
by Helga Isager out now

www.isagerstrik.dk
www.amimono.dk

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Harrisville Designs is a heritage woolen mill specializing in They aspire to provide their customers with products that
stock dyed wool yarns. They are a family-owned company are thoughtfully crafted and made in America. They also
with a mission to continue to spin yarn in the historic mill make floor looms, weaving and spinning equipment, and
town of Harrisville, New Hampshire. Maintaining over 200 children’s fiber art kits. Be a part of their story and get a
years of textile history and tradition, the family has been closer look at harrisville.com
.
spinning yarn for six generations.

- Sponsored - Harrisville Designs https://harrisville.com 37

 Craft City Guide to

New England
Elizabeth Duvivier, our guest editor, will guide you on a road trip celebrating the rich
textile culture of this area.

Photographs, except otherwise noted, are by Elizabeth Duvivier

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ction
Location: Rockywold-Deephaven Camps, Holderness, NH
Photo Credit: Thea Coughlin

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Introduc
Across New England you will find wonderful sources of yarn,
fiber and textiles to delight any maker’s heart. Whether
you travel from western Massachusetts to the rocky coast
of Maine, or along pretty back roads that wind up through
small New Hampshire towns or head down to the historic city
of Providence and the beaches of Rhode Island, you will find
an abundance of things to see. Add in fabulous antique and
second-hand shops, creative collaboratives, historic villages,
local artisanal foods, a working mill and voila: you have the
makings of an epic road trip.

This June, there will be five people, including the founders

of amirisu, traveling all the way from Japan to the wilds
of New Hampshire to attend the spring session of Squam
Art Workshops. I find this to be remarkable. Although it’s
been over ten years now since we began hosting creative
gatherings and -- to date, people from 47 states and 22
countries have made the journey -- it will never cease to
amaze me that people are willing to travel such a long
distance. So, I thought to put together a mini-guide to
provide information about possible spots of interest in the
event there is enough time to see a bit of the region while
they are here.

(Plus, for anyone who may not be attending the retreat but
plans on joining us for the Squam Art Fair -- our Saturday
night extravaganza -- these suggestions could create a fun
weekend getaway no matter what your point of origin may
be).

I was born in Boston, lived for many years in New Hampshire

and now make my home in Providence, Rhode Island, so
please know I am biased. I would argue that there is much
to recommend about this part of the world, most especially
the fact that you can experience a wide variety within a very
short distance. For example, if you set Boston as your hub,
a two-hour drive can bring you to the mountains or the
sea. And, along the way, you will find all sorts of treasures
including vintage shops, historic architecture, and regional
cuisine that might surprise and delight you. And of course,
most importantly: there is yarn. Let’s not forget shall we --
RAVELRY was founded in New England and, back in the
early days, they had a brick and mortar office in the heart of
Cambridge. All of which is to say, you are in good company
as a love of yarn, fiber and all things knitterly runs deep in
these parts.

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If you have always dreamed of walking into the mecca which “celebrates its local makers and a love of old things”
of yarn known as WEBS, it is in the college town of is an antique and artisan mall in Worcester’s Canal District.
Northampton, Massachusetts which is just over an hour and There you will find a unique range of handmade gifts,
a half drive west of Boston. To break up the trip, you might antiques and haberdashery. If you time it right, there is also a
stop halfway in Worcester -- a lesser known destination that terrific place for lunch: Birchtree Bread Company.
is enjoying quite a revival. In particular, Crompton Collective

Location: Worcester, MA
Photo Credit: Meg Fussell
WEST of BOSTON

CAMBRIDGE
Of course, there’s no need to go far to experience New selection including Brooklyn Tweed, Manos del Uruguay,
England charm. From Boston, cross the Charles River into Swans Island, Blue Sky, Knit Collage -- to name a few. You
Cambridge and head directly to the heart of Inman Square will be made to feel extremely welcome and there is a cozy
where you will find the city’s only stitch lounge: Gather Here. lounge where you can settle in to work on a project while
Founded in 2011 by Virginia Johnson and her husband you are in town.
Noah Dubreuil, Gather Here is the neighborhood hang-out
Perhaps good weather will lure you outside, in which case,
every maker dreams of. Not only do they offer a full range
head down to Harvard Square and find a spot along the river
of classes, they have all the yarn, sewing patterns, buttons,
to sit, knit, and watch the crew boats go by. Given this is a
embroidery kits, fabrics, notions and supplies that make your
university town, there is no shortage of fabulous places to
projects come to life. It’s pure eye candy. Here you can find
get food; the challenge will be to choose which one.
a wonderful range of textiles including Liberty of London
but if it is yarn you most want to fondle, there is a beautiful

Location: Store front of Gather Here in Cambridge, MA (left) Virginia and Noah, founders of Gather Here, with Elizabeth at Squam
Photo Credit: courtesy of Gather Here (right). Photo Credit: courtesy of Squam Art Workshops

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 Location: Harrisville Designs, Harrisville NH
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Harrisville Designs

NORTHWEST of BOSTON
Once you have landed in Boston, it might feel easiest to Shaker village. The village has 25 restored original Shaker
begin your trek directly and head north to Squam, seeing as buildings, 4 reconstructed Shaker buildings, and 694 acres
it is only a two-hour drive, but if you veer a bit to the west, of forests, fields, gardens, nature trails, and mill ponds under
you will land at a marvelous destination: Harrisville, NH. Not permanent conservation easement. When I lived in New
only is the brick mill town utterly picturesque and reputed to Hampshire, it was the only “tourist” thing I insisted my visiting
be one of the most photographed villages in New England, friends and family go see. It is truly lovely and unique-- well
but it is also the only industrial community of the early 19th worth your time as visitors are encouraged to learn about
Century that still survives in America in its original form. the life, ideals, values, and history of the Canterbury Shakers
Woolen yarn has been spun in the water-powered mill since through tours, programs, exhibits, research, and publications.
1794. The Shaker adage “hands to work, hearts to God”
Today, Harrisville Designs is a vibrant family business that underscores their core philosophy and illustrates why they
produces its own yarn as well as the spinning for Brooklyn stand as such exemplary makers. It was their intention from
Tweed. Their shop has a range of weaving, knitting and morning to night to weave simplicity and beauty into every
felting supplies. They also offer classes and, if you call ahead, aspect of their daily life whether it was weaving, gardening,
you can arrange to have a tour of the mill itself. cooking, sewing or making a bench.

Sometimes the only thing that could make a pretty road trip In Spring 2018, the Museum store will open in its new
more perfect is pie. From Harrisville, head northeast toward location in the carriage house. Oh, and by the way-- in the
the state capital of Concord, NH. On Main Street you will find event you skipped the pie stop in Concord, don’t worry.
a most fabulous house of pie called Crust and Crumb. If after Baked goods from Crust and Crumb are also featured in the
all that pie you are thinking a healthy, delicious lunch is in Shaker Box Lunch and Farmstand in the Village. We got you
order-- head over to Tuckers or, if you are seeking the perfect covered!
vegan option, Willows. From Canterbury, drive north for about 30 minutes to arrive
A bit north of Concord, straight up I-93 is the town of at Squam lake.
Canterbury where you will find the over 200 year old historic

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East by East of BOSTON
Perhaps, like me, there is no resisting the call of the sea. atrium is always worth a visit. In addition to the more than
In that case, from Boston you want to head due east. 840,000 works of art and culture featuring maritime art and
Depending on the amount of time you have, you may want history, the Peabody-Essex has American art, Asian, Oceanic,
to explore Cape Cod, or grab a ferry to Martha’s Vineyard and African art; two large libraries and Yin Yu Tang, the only
or Nantucket. As I said earlier, there is far too much to do complete Qing Dynasty house outside China.
on just one trip, so I will contain myself to a road trip that
If you are more keen to commune with nature than
will eventually bring you to Squam lake-- but, if you feel the
paintings, I recommend a trip out to Plum Island, an 11-
need to take the wheel in another direction, you just can’t go
mile long barrier Island off the shore of Newburyport and
wrong with the National Seashore of Cape Cod, one of my
Newbury. Grab a picnic lunch and head out to wander the
favorite places in the world.
island’s national wildlife refuge or simply walk the miles of
However, in order to keep this show on the road, we are beautiful sandy beaches. It’s a piece of heaven, for sure.
now heading northeast of Boston, with a first stop in Salem,
MA where you will find all manner of witchy paraphernalia
and an independently owned yarn shop called Circle of When you are ready to continue on your adventure, head
Stitches. Owner Ana Campos launched her shop in February due north up along the coast to Portland, Maine.
2015. Her intention was to create a space that would inspire Located in the Old Port section of town is Tess’ Designer
fiber artists and cultivate community. In the last three years, Yarns. There is plenty of parking here, plus shops and
the shop has evolved and expanded. In addition to a wide restaurants -- that is, if you ever leave Tess‘ once you've
selection of fiber offerings, Circle of Stitches has modern entered it.
embroidery and cross-stitch kits, gifts and home goods made
Most people only get a chance to see owner Melinda
by a variety of artisans and artists.
Bickford’s exquisite yarns in her beautiful booths at sheep
If your bags are well-stocked with yarn at this point and you & wool festivals around the country. However, if you get
are seeking something either indoors or out, there are two the chance to actually step into her space -- wow -- be ready
exceptional options. for a huge room filled floor to ceiling with luxurious, hand-
First, one my most favorite museums in the world happens dyed yarns. Renowned for their bold and vibrant colors. Tess’
to be located here. The Peabody-Essex with its beautiful Designer Yarns are a visual experience you won’t soon forget.

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On a practical note, store hours do fluctuate so be sure to From Portland head west if you plan to get to the lake before
check ahead, but don’t fret. This is a shop that lists a number dark. Of course, as you may need a stop along the way, check
for “yarn emergencies” on its website! What’s not to love? out the pretty village of Tamworth, New Hampshire, and its
darling Lyceum. We haven’t talked much about photography
An easy walk from the Old Port district is the city’s East End
on this trip, but if ever you wanted to take out your camera
neighborhood with its lovely mix of historic homes; funky,
and snap some shots -- this might be just the place to do it.
upscale restaurants and shops, and choice destinations such
as the Portland Observatory, and the Eastern Promenade. It If you are unfamiliar with the word, the Lyceum Movement
is also home to Knit Wit, the flagship store for Quince and was the development of organizations that sponsored public
Co yarns. Here you will find an expansive range of yarn from programs such as lectures and concerts that flourished in the
locally sourced Swans Island, Knit One, Crochet Too, Dirty mid-19th century, particularly in the Midwest and Northeast.
Water Dyeworks and String Theory as well as brands like The Lyceum in the center of historic Tamworth has a café,
Cascade, Berroco and Classic Elite. This is very much a shop event space, gift shop and natural grocer. It offers what is
to drop in on with a WIP to while away some time and make locally and regionally available so expect to find options from
some new friends. local farmers that are seasonal, fresh and delicious.
Another part of Portland to explore is the hip East Bayside Another thirty minutes down the road and you are rolling
neighborhood where -- among some of the city's best along the beauty that is Squam Lake, our final destination.
breweries -- you will find PortFiber, a fiberarts supply shop
that has all the goods for knitters, spinners, felters, weavers
and dyers. Casey Ryder’s story of how she came to create this
community-centered shop was featured on Episode 60 of the
Woolful podcast.
In Casey’s thoughtfully curated shop you will be dazzled Photos
by an amazing collection. Be prepared to find a wild mix Top left - location: Lyceum, Tamworth, NH; Courtesy of Tamworth
of breeds and blends including yak/silk, kid mohair, Tajik Lyceum. Top right - location: Circle of Stitches, Salem, MA; Courtesy of
Cashgora Yarn, both hand-dyed and naked fiber, and locally Circle of Stitches. Bottom - location: Lyceum, Tamworth, NH; Courtesy
sourced Rambouillet top as well as books and magazines. of Tamworth Lyceum

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Above: On a street in Providence, RI, in spring.

46
SOUTH of BOSTON
Location: Providence, RI
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Providence Atheneum

Less than an hour south of Boston is her lesser known sister, the 16th and 17th centuries. You will pass The Atheneum,
Providence, with easy, creative vibe. It is home to the nation’s an exceptional library founded in 1831. Take a left on
premier art college Rhode Island School of Design(RISD), Wickenden Street and stop in at Duck & Bunny, the world’s
Brown University and Johnson & Wales which -- as it is only snuggery! Duck & Bunny is a pure delight for breakfast,
one of the best culinary academies-- has spawned dozens lunch, or dinner. They specialize in crepes and cupcakes and,
of fabulous bistros and restaurants across the city. The if the weather is fine, ask for a table out in the back garden.
incredible food, great people, and beautiful architecture are
The creativity and inspiration! The RISD museum is an
part of the reason I believe Providence is New England’s best
absolute jewel box. I like to stop in on a regular basis, not
kept secret. (more on that below)*
only for two of my favorite paintings by Mark Rothko and
Aside from the incredible food, beaches and brick-lined John Singer Sargent, but to commune with the magnificent
streets, what many people don’t know about Rhode Island Buddha Mahavairocana from the late Heian Period. This
is that it is home to the first textile mill in this country: giant artwork, the largest wooden Japanese sculpture in the
SLATER MILL. Worthy of an article unto itself, Slater Mill is a United States -- constructed from 11 hollowed and carved
fascinating destination for the textile history buffs among pieces of wood-- was brought over in 1933. Also, right
us. The Slater Mill campus includes three historic structures, down the street from the RISD museum is a magical place
a gift shop, exhibition gallery space and is open for museum called the The Nature Lab, founded in the early 20th century
tours from March through November. by RISD faculty member Edna Lawrence. This remarkable
womam wanted a place that would “open students’ eyes
If you do make it all the way down here, you might want to
to the marvels of beauty in nature...of forms, space, color,
mosey over to Hope Street in Providence where you will find
texture, design and structure.” What is most incredible about
a host of handmade goods, fabulous gifts and independently
this space is that although it is used by art students, it is open
owned speciality shops that include art, jewelry, artisanal
to the public. If you thrill to shelves and glass cupboards filled
olive oils, apothecary for the devotee of exceptional lotions
floor-to-ceiling with all manner of seashells, butterflies, birds,
and potions, kitchen goods, lovely and inspiring to odd and
bird nests, bones, etc -- this might be the experience you
incredible sundries, as well as one of the city’s very best
remember most.
bakeries.
The beaches! The food! The boulevards! The old movie
ELIZABETH *HEARTS* PROVIDENCE
theater! Westminster Street!
In the summer of 2011, I left the wilds of the White
The coffeeshops! The farmer’s market! Okay, I lied. I can’t
Mountains and settled into the Summit Neighborhood on
limit myself to just three. #sorrynotsorry
the East Side of Providence, Rhode Island. Though I knew
a bit about it, I honestly was in no way prepared to fall in
love with this city as I have. Seven years later I am still utterly Photos top left - Slater Mill. Bottom - Near Benefit Street. Photos by
smitten with this small town that offers the very best of city Meri Tanaka.
living. I even have a hashtag #provylove on my Instagram
feed because I can’t stop wanting to share its beauty.
Given that you never want to get me talking about
Providence (hint: I won’t stop), I will do my best to choose
just three things to share with you should you make a visit
here.
The architecture! Even if you never get out of your car,
you can drive around street after street and look up at the
amazing rooflines and brightly painted houses. However, I
highly recommend you walk the streets as that is the only
way you will really get a feel for the place. For example, if
you walk the length of Benefit Street you will get a glimpse
into the past, with a stretch of charming houses built in

47
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Squam Ahead
–– with Meg Fussell
In September 2017, Meg took over the running of Squam buildings in Salem make me feel very nostalgic. I do love
Art Workshops. As the Event Coordinator, Meg creates and that in New England I can drive for two hours and cross the
hosts both the June and September gatherings at the lake borders of multiple states -- that’s a novelty that will never
and curates the Saturday night art fairs. Born in the UK, get old!
raised in the Pacific Northwest, Meg now makes her home
in Salem, MA, where she is no stranger to impromptu road
trips and ever ready for a knit night. Below she answers a few 3. Do you remember how you first learned of Squam?
questions to help us get to know her better. I first learned of Squam in 2016, when my mum, Tif, asked me
if I wanted to be her travel buddy to this “epically beautiful
retreat on a lake in the middle of nowhere, somewhere on
1. Was it hard to transition to the East Coast?
the east coast!” Never passing up a good opportunity to
Yes. I'm still trying to figure out how to 'be' here, and only travel with her OR a visit to an epic place in an unknown land,
recently did I start to feel a little more settled after finding my of course I said yes! However, as it happened, I wasn't able
local LYS and crafting shops. The transition is still happening to make it to the retreats that year, but fast forward twelve
and I'm excited about exploring the region more, especially months and a few serendipitous events, and I found myself
the White Mountains and the coast of Maine. working alongside Elizabeth at the Spring 2017 retreat. I was
swept away by the pure majesty of the place. Squam has a
reputation of 'magic', and I felt that magic in the vibration of
2. What are your first impressions of New England? the lake and the surrounding land. Squam Lake is singing to
When I first moved here, my impression was that it felt us -- you can feel it when you walk across campus or float in
very reminiscent of when I was living in the UK. The people the water -- and I just love being there.
remind me a lot of those I knew in London and the historic

4. Now that you are in charge, what is your vision for Squam
in the years ahead?
At this moment, my vision for Squam is deeply rooted in
nurturing community. You might hear me harping on about
it, but communities of any form -- online, knit groups, Squam
-- are huge sources of inspiration, joy, healing, growth,
and connection. I was always searching for my 'tribe' and
I am thankful that in the last three years I was able to find
community by learning to knit, and now in my new role for
Squam. I hope to continue growing the Squam community
by expanding the platforms in which the retreats are
accessible, so people from all walks of life can access the
feeling of being connected, creative and safe in a vibrant,
nurturing place.

5. Three knitting WIPs you've got going on right now?

I am just rows away from casting off the Zweig sweater by
Caitlin Hunter, and next up is another Brae Cove Tunic by Sam
Lamb, knit in Woodsmoke Brooklyn Tweed that I've been
coveting for ages. After a recent trip to Iceland, my partner
hinted at the Jón sweater by Hulda Hákonardóttir; we both
love Lopi, so that will be my next indulgent project. What I
love best about knitting is that I meet knitters who are twice
my age yet still don't feel like 'masters' of the craft. As I am a
process knitter, I love knowing that I could do this my whole
life and never stop learning and growing my skills.

Location: Squam Lake

Photo Credit: Gerri Smalley

50
51
New England Roadtrip Map
Maine

New Hampshire

Massachusetts

Rhode Island

52
Starting from Boston, here are four Willow South of Boston
recommended routes for exploring 55 S Main St, Concord, NH 03301
New England before hitting the Squam willowspbe.com Providence, RI
Lake.
RISD Museum
Squam Art Workshops Canterbury Shaker Village 20 N Main St, Providence, RI 02903
For all information about the retreats and the 288 Shaker Rd, Canterbury, NH 03224
risdmuseum.org
Squam Art Fairs shakers.org
The Nature Lab at Rhode Island School of
squamartworkshops.com
Design

West of Boston 13 Waterman St, Providence, RI 02903

East of Boston
naturelab.risd.edu
Cambridge, MA Salem, MA
Benefit Street
Gather Here Peabody Essex Museum
Go pallarel to Main St. where the RISD
1343 Cambridge St, Cambridge, MA 02139 161 Essex St, Salem, MA 0197
Museum is located
gatherhereonline.com Pem.org
Providence Atheneum (Public Library)
Circle of Stitches
251 Benefit St, Providence, RI 02903
Worcester, MA 66 Wharf St, Salem, MA 01970
providenceathenaeum.org
Crompton Collective circelofstitches.com
Duck & Bunny
138 Green St, Worcester, MA 01604
312 Wickenden St, Providence, RI 02903
cromptoncollective.com Portland, ME theduckandbunny.com
Birchtree Bread Co. Tess’ Designer Yarns
Slater Mill
138 Green St #5, Worcester, MA 01604 424 Fore St, Portland, ME 04101
67 Roosevelt Ave, Pawtucket, RI 02860
tessyarns.com

Northhampton, MA Knit Wit

WEBS 247 Congress St, Portland, ME 04101

yarnonthebrain.com
75 Service Center Rd, Northampton, MA
01060 PortFiber
yarn.com 50 Cove St, Portland, ME 04101
portfiber.com
Northwest of Boston
Portland Observatory
Harrisville, NH 138 Congress St, Portland, ME 04101
Harrisville Designs
The Eastern Promenade Trail
harrisville.com
South of observatory along the coast

Concord, NH Tamworth, NH
Crust and Crumb
Tamworth Lyceum
126 N Main St, Concord, NH 03301
85 Main St, Tamworth, NH 03886
thecrustandcrumb.com
tamworthlyceum.com
Tuckers
80 South St, Concord, NH 03301
tuckersnh.com

53
54
 Chillout
What to wear for a cafe brunch around the corner

Photographs by Masahiro Kohda

55
 Summer in Norway
Biches & Bûches

Everyone looks lovely in round yoke sweaters. Whether it’s due to the
shape or because of the colorwork, I don't know. Biches & Bûches’
Le Petit Lambswool makes this pullover lightweight and versatile. I
imagine it’d be perfect for summer evenings in Norway. I am going to
play with the colors on mine.

56
57
58
59
60
 Yunagi
Holli Yeoh

Linen in winter feels chilly to me, it is truly a material for summer.

Quince & Co. Sparrow is used for this relaxed-fit pullover, Yunagi,
inspired by ocean waves. Picturing a long walk on the beach in the
evening, when it gets cooler and the wind gets stronger. We need a day
like that every once in a while in summer.

61
 Suiren
Orlane Sucche

Since I began to knit shawls, I wear more dresses in the summer. I

don’t have to worry about getting cold in a restaurant or in the evening,
if I have a shawl handy.
This shawl made with a solid hand-dyed color of Northumbria Fingering
from Miss Babs is gorgeous with simple summer dresses. You cannot
have too many shawls, can you?

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 Wings of the Dove
Joan Forgione

This shawl reminds me of my favorite watercolor painting. The color is

breathtaking. Freia Yarn’s Ombré Merino Lace always surprises me with
its gorgeous flow and color gradations. The soft color and lacework
work especially well with a simple clothing style. It can transform
summer casual into a special occasion look.

66
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 Loie
Maddie Harvey

A lace-weight, silk / linen yarn makes a perfect summer shawl. Loie

is a triangular shawl knit in 3 directions, using 2 colors from Breeze
by Anzula Luxury Fibers. The flow of eyelets reminds me of bubbles
floating on water. Its generous size allows you to wrap it around your
shoulders for warmth on cool summer evenings.

68
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70
71
 Yuri
Amy Miller

Pink is my go-to color when I’m feeling low. It not only brightens up
my complexion but also my mood. While we don't usually favor pink,
Tern’s pink hues are more subdued and make a wearable top for a “pink
beginner.” This shade works well with a simple pair of capri pants as
well.

72
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Based in East Nashville in Tennessee, Nutmeg started out as a The four bases, Cottage, Hearth, Cabin and Retreat, are dyed
small, brick-and-mortar craft shop, but soon became a hub for in her studio using natural dye materials. She is attracted to
carefully curated knitting yarns. The owner, Meg Anderson, the idea of creating something that can be passed down as
began to dye yarn to sell in her shop in 2015, and soon an heirloom and loved for generations. Her hope is that the
created her own yarn bases as well as a dye studio. A year color palette she creates from natural materials will always be
later, she decided to focus on dyeing yarns. beautiful, and transcends time. When you spend many hours
Her yarns are all sourced 100% within the US, including her knitting something, you want it to be just as wonderful in 10
most popular base, Cottage, a 100% US Merino worsted- years as it is the day you finish making it.
weight yarn. Find out more about her squishy, gorgeous yarn and story at
https://www.nutmegfibers.com

- Sponsored - Nutmeg Fibers https://www.nutmegfibers.com 75

76
 any mention of the technique, probably
due to lack of a name, so she decided to
give it a proper name. It is true that we've
seen patterns using this technique here and
there, like Marianne Isager's Newspaper
pullover pattern, but by thinking of it as a
new technique, it opens up vast new design
possibilities - this truly fascinates me.
There are 11 new patterns included in this
book, featuring Marlisle technique's bold
geometric design elements. Deciding on which
one to knit first is difficult, but my favorites are
the Ess shawl (a striped triangular shawl with
cool fringe), Kraai mitts and Trembling round
yoke sweater. All patterns showcase previously
Self-published in 2018. unimagined yarn combinations, sometimes
$28.50 £21.50 € 25.00 material-wise, sometimes color-wise - who
ISBN: 978-0-9955994-1-3 would've thought combining orange with
I want to begin by saying that this is my dark chocolate yarn would make such a
favorite knitting book of 2018 so far. As a winsome fabric?
huge fan of her previous book - Penguin: A Another reason I am so passionate about this
Knit Collection - I was looking forward to this book is because I enjoy Anna's witty stories
release, and I wasn't disappointed! about choosing yarns, design ideas, and
What is this ‘Marlisle’? Marlisle is a word she descriptions of new techniques. Additional tips
made up for this technique of knitting. It for improving your knitting, such as advice on
blends ‘marl’, the term for two yarns being cast on and cast off, are included throughout
worked together and ‘isle’ from fairisle the book.
for the stranded colourwork aspect of it. I recommend grabbing a copy at your local
Anna's extensive research did not uncover shop! Add a new treasure to your book-stash!

Bookish.
Marlize: A new Direction in Knitting by Anna Maltz

77
 Handmade Everything

Botanical Candle Making

Knitting is one of the most time-consuming, complicated

crafts to do. If you can knit, it is likely you can do other crafts
SUPPLIES Needed
easily!
Making a core candle
Two of us here at amirisu decided to try a candle-making A wick tab and 4~5" (10 ~ 12 cm) of candle wick
class at Candle Vida art candle school in Tokyo. A mold, 3 - 3 1/2" (8 ~ 9 cm) in diameter
100 grams of paraffin pellets
A steel cup
INSTRUCTOR A pair of unused disposable chopsticks (or a long stick)

Sachiko Maeda
The founder of Candle Vida and the instructor of art candle Adding an outer layer to a candle
making. Microcrystalline waxes (micro wax) - removes bubbles and
Sachiko started making candles during childhood, and smooths surface: 17g
decided to make a career of it in her early 20's. Since then, she Stearin (stearic acid) - helps remove candles from molds: 8g
  
has explored and developed new techniques to create one- Paraffin pellets: 170 grams
of-a-kind, beautiful candles. A mold, 4" (10 cm) in diameter
Her work and techniques are widely published in magazines. Vegetable oil (any kind)
Dried or preserved flowers

78
Melt paraffin pellets in a steel cup by heating Oil the inside of the 4" mold, place the core
to 70 to 80 º C (170 º F). candle at the center, and decorate with dried
flowers. Make sure the plants do not come
near the wick, for they may catch fire and burn.

Set a string of candle wick at the center of Do not add too many plants, or it will become
mold, and pour melted paraffin. difficult for the melted candle to completely fill
the gap.

Immediately put the mold into fridge to cool Fix the wick into position as above. Pour the
down. Remove from the mold once the candle melted candle to 1/2~3/4" (1~2 cm) above the
hardens. top of the core candle. If you add too much,
the center top area will be dented when it gets
cold. In winter, make sure the room is warm,
so that the air caught in the candle can escape
before the candle is set.

As in the first picture, melt ingredients of the Wait until the candle becomes completely
outer layer, by heating to 100 º C (210 º F). hard. You can put it into a fridge to expedite
You can add a color, but beware, additives can the process. Slowly remove the candle from the
create soot. mold.

79
L ori's Notebook
A Watercolor Painted Book Cover
Photos and a pattern by Lori Ann Graham

80
Whether traveling to a far off destination or staying closer to For my current cover I’m doing just that, researching birds that
home, I like to bring along a field guide or book to familiarize frequent the area I will be traveling to this summer, to the far
myself with the area and it’s flora and fauna. To create your north. Each drawing represents a bird I hope to see. The cover
canvas and protect the book, first take a plain clean brown can also be a check list. Next, a wildflower edition!
paper sack, and fold it into a sleeve to fit the cover. Draw your
favorite birds, butterflies, flowers, shells, ect. chosen from
the guide. Finally the the fun part begins, painting! Add the How to
number of the page or plate next to each illustration, for Materials : plain brown bag, Kuretake Gansai Tambi
quick reference when out in the wild. watercolours, Kuretake Compact Box for outdoor use, Micron
I love the birds of Africa, they are so colorful and different and Copic pens, Blackwing pencils.
from what we see here at home on the central coast of
California. For this book cover I chose to draw birds that I
have seen (and hoped to see again). When traveling I use a
compact paint set with a limited amount of primary colors,
so it can be a challenge to mix shades to resemble what I’m
seeing in the wild. Observing, learning and having fun is
much more important than getting things just right though. I
have found that by drawing things before seeing them (from
studying photos) helps a lot when attempting to identify the
subject in the wild.

81
A Caffeinated Knitter
A story of coffee and a recipe for your knitting
Story by tokuko / Recipe by Meri

82
Story Cold brew coffee
Let's talk about beans now. Coffee beans are the seeds of Measure 1.4 oz (40 grams) of coffee ground into a large
coffee berries. You may have seen images of the ripe fruit, mason jar, and add 3 cups (600 ml) of water. Refregerate for
which is usually either red or yellow, but it’s rare to see it in 12 to 24 hours. Strain grounds and pour into 2 large glasses. I
person. In Japan, the only area growing coffee commercially usually add a little bit of milk.
is Okinawa, and I saw it once while we were living there. Why
people thought of using the beans (seeds) in the first place is
beyond my comprehension, taking the time to roast and grind
cranberry carrot cake
to make drinks. As an avid coffee drinker, I am immensely Ingredients for 9" (22cm) long rectangular mold:
thankful to the folks who thought of this. (A)
1 1/2 cups (200 grams) of flour (1/3 whole wheet, 2/3 cake
There are three ways to harvest. First is to hand-pick only the flour)
ripe berries. Coffee plantations on steep slopes of highlands 1/2 tsp of baking powder
often use this method. It is labor-intensive, but the berries
3/4 tsp of baking soda
collected are consistently of high quality. However, it’s the
most expensive way. Imagining people hand-picking berries 1/2 tsp of ground nutmeg
one by one makes you more appreciative of every cup you 1 tsp of cinnamon powder
have! a pinch of salt
The second method is to pluck a branch-full of berries all at (B)
once. This saves quite a bit of time, but unripe berries will be 1 uncompressed cup (90 grams) of freshly shredded carrot,
mixed in with the ripe ones. This is still pretty labor-intensive, instantly mixed with 1 tbsp of lemon juice
but many large plantations are doing this.
a few drops of vanilla oil / essense
Last is machine harvesting. Naturally, this is the most efficient
1/2 cup of dried cranberries, with 1 tsp of rum
way, but lacks the high quality of the first two methods.
1 cup of your favorite nuts, roasted and diced (I used 1/2 cup
of walnut, 1/2 cup of mixed cashews and sliced almonds)
Once harvested, seeds must be removed from the berries.
(C)
There are two methods of doing this.
3 medium eggs
The dry method involves sunlight, and space to spread the
berries. It is used in places like Brazil with limited water 4 tbsp (50 grams) of unpacked brown sugar
resources, and makes for a richer coffee with more complex 2 1/2 tbsp (50 grams) of honey
flavors. 1 tbsp + 1 tsp (20 grams) of butter
The wet method requires machinery and a large amount of 110 grams of vegetable oil (butter and oil combined is about
water, popular in water-rich regions, such as Central America. 2/3 cup. If you don't have butter, you can use vegitable oil
This gives the final coffee product a clearer taste. only)
After either hulling method the seeds (or beans) are dried,
and stored for the further roasting process. Frosting (Optional):
6 tbsp (85 grams) of softened butter
The different processing methods explain the varied nuances 1 1/2 cups (185 grams) of powdered sugar
in flavors, even when using the same variety of beans.
1/4 cup (60 grams) of softened cream cheese
Right now, as I write this in a local cafe sipping my coffee, I
1 tsp of vanilla
can't help but think of the harvesters in faraway places, and
how their hard work makes my ”cup of joe“ taste that much pinch of salt
richer.
Preparations:

Recipe Preheat the oven to 390 °F (200 °C).

Sift all powders together (ingredients A).
My morning usually starts with a cup of hot coffee, but on
Shred a carrot and mix with lemon juice.
some sweaty mornings, I prefer cold brew. To do this, you have
to think ahead and start a batch on the previous afternoon Wash off oil coating of dried cranberries by pouring over
(I usually do it right after I have my morning coffee), but it's boiled water. Lightly dry with kitchen paper, and dice. You can
totally worth it. omit this process, but the result will be better.
One of the cakes I enjoy baking in summer is carrot cake. Roast and dice nuts.
I have done it so many times that I was sure I could create Oil the mold.
a better recipe by myself. The result is so satisfying - this is
probably the best carrot cake I've ever had (my husband likes Instructions:
it more moist - I think you can double the carrot). And it's
Wisk (C) until the ingredients are well mixed and creamy.
perfect for having with a glass of cold brew coffee.
Add (B), then fold in (A) being careful not to over mix. Pour
batter into mold and bake at 390 °F (200 °C) for 5 min, then
350 °F (180 °C) for 25 min.

Mix the frosting and ice the cake once it has cooled
completely.

83
 The Next Sewing Project

Repurposed Zipper Bag

If you are like us, you end up getting several tote bags
from a variety of sources only to find the sizes are not
perfect, and so you never use them. We can ony use so
many tote bags, but zipper bags are a different story. We
will tell you how you can repurpose your unused canvas
totes into a zipper project bag!

84
 (2) Fold the lining with RS facing each other,
and sew the other end with the opposite side
of the zipper.
1/8"
0.3cm

(3) Sew the canvas onto the zipper, with RS

facing each other. Use the zipper foot of your
sewing machine.
1/4"
Materials: 0.7cm
A canvas tote, approx. 35 cm width, to get a
outer fabric of 48 cm height and 33 cm width
A piece of quilting cotton, 48 cm height and 33
cm width (or the same size as the canvas fabric)
- lining
A zipper, 30cm long (an inch shorter than the
width of fabric)
Notions and tools
Clips or pins
Sewing machine (or thread and a needle)

(4) Fold the canvas into half, and sew the other
end of the fabric onto the zipper. Optional:
From RS, edge stitch the canvas for neater
finish.
1" 1/4"
3cm 0.7cm

(5) Sew sides of the liner and the canvas.

When sewing the lining, leave about 3" (8 cm)
(1) Fold each end of the zipper as shown in unsewed to pull out the canvas and reverse
below picture, then staple or sew to keep in the lining. It's easier to do this if you open the
place. Cut any excess. Sew a zipper onto the zipper about halfway.
lining.
Optional: Sew four corners to create gusset.
Sew the remaining gap of the lining to finish.
1/8" *Press open the seams
0.3cm
1/2"
1cm

3"
8cm

85
 Subscribe!
amirisu is available for subscription! Currently issued
twice a year.
Purchase two issues and receive a discount on cover price.
Your copy will be delivered to you immediately after the
release within the US and Japan (For the rest of the world,
please allow a week for delivery).
For US details, please visit: https://amirisu-kurumi.
myshopify.com
Non-US Countries: https://shop. amirisu.com/collections/
amirisu-magazine

86
L
onger days, bare feet on sun-warmed wood or rock, picnics, the garden lush and full. Summer brings these pleasures and
many more. We invite friends to come spend the evening on the deck. We grill our supper and linger outside until the
stars dot the night sky. Things seem to speed up and slow down all at the same time. Summer invites leisure, but soon our
calendar is packed. We take it all in. We keep going. We cannot get enough.
– Shari Altman

Through the Lens

Shari is a photographer and blogger who lives in Vermont. She contributes a photo journal to this magazine.

87
 Contributors

Fiona Alice Alice Caetano Joan Forgione Maddie Harvey Bernice Lim
Fiona is a knitwear A designer, illustrator and Joan Forgione is a knitwear Maddie Harvey is a Bernice is knitter who
designer from Nova Scotia, obsessive knitter based designer, a reading freelance designer and lives in tropical Singapore.
Canada. In 2015, Fiona in the Netherlands, who teacher, and a promotions knitting teacher, living She enjoys knitting
was living in London, UK, likes to try out different coordinator for a NYC and working in Edinburgh, and designing summer
where published her first silhouettes and minimal yarn shop. Her designs UK. She loves bold and knitwear. When she's not
book with Pom Pom Press, shapes; basics that aren’t have been published in simple knitwear designs, knitting, she enjoys doing
Take Heart: A Transatlantic boring, and strives to magazines, as well as especially those that pottery and spending time
Knitting Journey. create garments that are having been featured in use stripes and lace with her family. She runs
Currently, Fiona enjoys easy to wear, clothes that books and commissioned patterning in striking an art studio at home,
traveling and continues to are worth the effort of by yarn companies. When colour combinations. A exploring different ways
gathering inspiration for making. she’s not designing for former primary school of doing art with her
new designs. Ravelry: radiolazy others, Joan self-publishes teacher, Maddie is inspired students. She feels blessed
Ravelry: FionaAlice as Paper Moon Knits on by colour, geometry and to be able to do what she
www.knitburo.com
www.fionaalice.com Ravelry. She believes that knitwear construction. loves.
Instagram: @fiona_alice_ every pattern is a learning Find out more at Ravelry: yamagarami
opportunity for the maddieharveydesigns.com
Instagram: yamagara
knitter, and enjoys helping Ravelry: MaddieHarvey
knitters do that through
www.
her designs.
maddieharveydesigns.com
Ravelry: joanforgione
papermoonknits.com

Amy Miller Andrea Mowry Orlane SUCCHE Astrid Troland Holli Yeoh
Amy Miller is a knitwear After leaving her life as Orlane lives in France Her Danish and Norwegian Holli Yeoh is a Vancouver
designer living and a pastry chef, her hands with her partner and two roots - the wind, the wild knitwear designer, known
working just outside found the necessary daughters. She draws grass, the cold sea - are for her deliciously modern
Chicago. Known for freedom to begin creating inspiration from everyday the core and inspiration knitting patterns with
simple designs with an with fiber instead of flour. life and the things she of Astrid's designs. In a casually elegant vibe.
interesting twist, her She focuses on designing admires, such as textile addition to her roots, They appear regularly
work is both wearable knits to fit the modern traditions, art brut, sad nature as a whole, and its in books published by
and fashion forward. wardrobe. Andrea has songs and contemplative rustic texture, softened Interweave Press and
She’s been featured in a great love for new landscapes. Like any city- by the beautiful light Sixth&Spring as well as
Interweave Knits and had techniques and skills, and dweller, she dreams of on a special summer magazines including Vogue
designs published in Twist sharing them with other moving to the mountains, day with calming and Knitting, Noro Magazine,
Collective, knit.wear, Knit knitters through her work. raising sheep and soothing colors, inspired and Twist Collective. Holli
Simple and by numerous Her goal is to leave knitters producing her own wool. the creation of Biches & has also collaborated
yarn companies. feeling empowered and Ravelry: orlane Bûches. with SweetGeorgia Yarns
Ravelry: amy-miller inspired, and wrapped Ravelry: bichesetbuches to publish Tempest, a
https://www.instagram.
up in their own beautiful sophisticated collection of
amymillerknits.com com/tete_beche/ www.bichesetbuches.com
knits! knitting patterns for women.
Ravelry: dreareneeknits She self-publishes her own
line of knitting patterns at
www.dreareneeknits.com
holliyeoh.com.
Ravelry: holliyeoh

88
 Next Issue:
Fall 2018

Vintage
Elizabeth Duvivier Maya Durham To be released in October 2018
Elizabeth Duvivier Maya is eighteen and
founded Squam in 2008. has just graduated high Atricle submissions related or unrelated to the topic is
She lives in Providence, RI school. She's been making welcomed!
with her dog Oliver and art her whole life, mostly
preferring paint, ink and *For article contribution, please visit:
spends most days taking
pencil. She's excited to www.amirisu.com/wp/contribute/ideas/
long walks, reading,
have her work appear in
writing, practicing yoga
amirisu magazine, which
and, on a really good day–
is a wonderful way to
painting.
begin her artistic career.
She is a big believer in
Next Submission Call
Although she doesn't knit
the importance of small often herself, Maya gets to
things. appreciate and wear hand
http://www. knits produced by her We are not planning a public call at this moment, but if
squamartworkshops.com mother, knitwear designer things change, we will post on Facebook, Instagram and
Instagram: Gudrun Johnston.
here: www.amirisu.com/wp/contribute/design/
elizabethduvivier

Shari Altman Lori Ann Graham

Shari lives in rural Lori is a photographer,
Vermont. She works as traveler, knitter and
a naturopath's office journal keeper from
assistant and is a student California. Her work
of folk herbalism. Every appeared in publications
day she finds time to including Lonely Planet’s
write, take photographs Traveller magazine,
and walk down her dirt Photographer’s Forum
road. Her work has been books, Shermans Travel,
featured in 1110 journal, Making magazine and
Taproot magazine, more. Her dream is to
Kindred magazine and write a book someday.
the book From Fields, Ravelry: lorix5
Orchards, and Gardens.
instagram : @loritimesfive

89
 spinnery.com

JULIE-ASSELIN.COM
www.jonesandvandermeer.com
90
 Meri Tanaka Jemison Tokuko Ochiai
Meri, the editor, creative and business development director, and co-owner Tokuko is a knitwear designer and the co-owner of amirisu co., working non-
of amirisu co., lives in the sacred city of Kyoto with a husband and a newborn stop to manage a yarn shop and teaching knitting classes. She's finally used
boy. Past experience includes a+u magazine, management consulting and to all her finished projects being taken from her as shop samples. She lives in
marketing. Nara.
Ravelry: sparklink02 Ravelry: tokuko
Instagram: @Sparkle512 Instagram: @knitwork

New Location Kyoto Flagship

WALNUT Tokyo has relocated Address: 745 Kikuyacho,
り

t.
通

aS
山

Omotesando Hills
m
青

earlier in 2018. Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto City,

ya
Ao

New opening hours: Tuesdays, Kyoto Prefecture

表参道駅 Thursdays, Saturdays, 11:00 ~ Street: Near the intersection of
Omotesando Station
18:00 / Fridays 13:00 ~ 20:00. Wakamiya Street and Takatsuji
COMME des GARÇONS
表 New Address: Casa Aoyama Street
Om 参
道
ote
bu
ya san
do
102, Minami Aoyama 3-15-4, Phone: 075-708-7210
i St
Sh
to Minato-ku, Tokyo Hours: Tuesday~ Saturday,
11:00 ~ 18:00

91
92
 Patterns
Errata
http://www.amirisu.com/shop/errata/

Pattern Questions
Please go to Ravelry amirisu group and post your questions on a relevant thread.
http://www.ravelry.com/groups/amirisu

93
 ABBREVIATIONS & PATTERN NOTES

BO Bind Off psso Pass slipped stitch over

BOR Beginning of round RH Right Hand
CC Contrasting color RM Remove Marker
CN Cable needle Rnd round
CO Cast On RS Right Side
DPN(s) Double pointed needles S2KP Slip 2, knit 1 pass slipped sts over
K Knit Sl Slip stitch
K tbl Knit through back of loop Sl wyb Slip st with yarn in back
K2tog Knit 2 together Sl wyf Slip st with yarn in front
K2tog tbl Knit 2 together through the back loop SM Slip Marker
K3tog Knit 3 together SSK Slip 2 stitches as if to knit, knit them together through the back
Kfb Knit into front and back of stitch loops

LH Left Hand SSP Slip 2 stitches as if to K. Slip the two slipped stitches back
to the left needle. Then purl them together through the back
M Marker
loops.
MC Main color
St st Stockinette stitch
P Purl
st(s) Stitch(es)
P tbl Purl through back of loop
TW Turn work
P2tog Purl 2 sts together
WS Wrong Side
Pfb Purl into front and back of stitch
YO Yarn over
PM Place Marker

Long tail cast on Step 6: Pull your finger out of the loop and tighten the yarn onto the
Step 1: Make a slip knot and insert the needle into the loop. Tighten needle.
slip knot onto needle. Repeat steps 2 - 6 until you have cast on the number of stitches
Step 2: With your bottom three fingers grab both pieces of yarn and required by the pattern.
hold them in your palm.
Step 3: Take your index finger and thumb and push them through the Crochet Provisional Cast-On (Provisional Cast-On)
two pieces of yarn. 1. With waste yarn and crochet hook, crochet chains loosely. At that
Step 4: Shift your thumb and forefinger backwards to pull the yarn time, crochet several chains longer than the required number of CO
tight. stitches. Break yarn and pull the tail through the last loop.
Step 5: Take the tip of your needle and pick up the bottom piece of 2. Insert knitting needle into a bump on the back of the last chain and
yarn closest to your body. pull the main yarn in the same way to knit. Continue until reaching the
Step 6: Swing the needle around and under the yarn wrapped around required number of CO sts.
your index finger. 3. When you pick up stitches, undo the chains by pulling out the waste
Step 7: Pull the needle through the loop of yarn on your thumb. yarn and transfer the stitches onto needle.
Step 8: Release the yarn around the thumb.
Step 9: Pull the yarn closest to your body tight on the needle. Crochet Cast On
Repeat steps 5 - 9 until you have reached the desired amount of Place a slipknot on crochet hook. Hold knitting needle and yarn in your
stitches on your needle. left hand and hook in your right hand, with yarn under needle. Place
hook over needle, wrap yarn around hook and pull loop through loop
on hook. *Bring yarn to back under needle, wrap yarn around hook,
Backward loop cast on
and pull it through loop on hook. For the decorative cast-on, repeat
Step 1: Begin with a slipknot and take your knitting needle and the tail from * until there is one fewer than the desired number of stitches on
of your yarn in your dominant hand. needle. Slip loop from hook to needle for last stitch. For the provisional
Step 2: Grab your yarn with your other hand and stretch it out a few cast-on, repeat from * until the desired number of stitches are on the
inches from your needle. needle and then chain a few more stitches without placing them on the
Step 3: Take your index finger and wrap the yarn around it. You can use needle to secure the chain before fastening off.
your thumb instead if you prefer.
Step 4: Begin by going over the top, to under, and then around to the
top again. You should now have a loop on your finger.
Step 5: Slide your knitting needle into the side of the loop, next to your
finger.

94
Garter stitch M1L, M1 (M1PL, M1LP) & M1R (M1PR, M1RP)
Row 1 (RS): K all sts. M1L, M1 (M1PL, M1LP): Insert left needle, from front to back, under
Row 2 (WS): K all sts. strand of yarn which runs between next stitch on left needle and last
Repeat row 1 & 2. stitch on right needle; knit (purl) this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch
increased.
M1R (M1PR, M1RP): Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand
Knitted Cast On
of yarn which runs between next stitch on left needle and last stitch on
This cast on is used for added new sts to beginning or end of a row. right needle; knit (purl) this stitch through front loop. 1 stitch increased.
Hold needle with sts on it in left hand and empty needle in right hand.
*K1 without removing old st from left needle. Insert left needle into front
leg of new st and slip to left needle. 2 sts on left needle. Repeat from * German short rows
until desired number of sts are cast on. When the last stitch of the short row has been worked, TW. With the
yarn in front (wyif) Sl1 from the LH needle to the RH needle. Then take
the working yarn to the back over the RH needle tugging the yarn so
Twisted German Cast-On
that the 2 legs of the stitch below the slipped stitch are raised and wrap
The German Twisted Cast on is also known as the Old Norwegian Cast part way over the RH needle, this stitch is referred to as “double stitch
on. It is similar to a Long tail cast on except it adds an extra twist to the (ds)”. Then, proceed to work as per the instructions.
finished cast on. It is a streatchier cast on so is perfect where you need
On the next row where one comes to work the “ds,” work as one stitch
more elasticity like for the top of socks.
by inserting the RH needle into both legs, similar to K2tog stitch in case
1. Starting with a slip knot. of knit stitch, or P2tog in case of purl stitch.
2. Holding the yarn and needle in the right hand, pinch your left
forefinger and thumb together and place in between the two strands
W&T (Wrap & Turn)
hanging down from the needle being careful not to twist the strands.
Make sure that the tail is closest to you and draped over your thumb. To wrap and turn on a RS row, knit to point specified in pattern, bring
yarn to front of work between needles, slip next stitch to right-hand
3. Grip the working yarn and tail together using the other fingers on
needle, bring yarn around this stitch to back of work, slip stitch back to
your left hand.
left-hand needle, turn work to begin purling back in the other direction.
4. Open up your forefinger and thumb and pull the needle down,
To wrap and turn on a WS row, purl to point specified in pattern, bring
exactly as if you are doing a long tail cast-on.
yarn to back of work between needles, slip next stitch to right-hand
5. Using the tip of the right-hand needle, go under both sides of the needle, bring yarn around this stitch to front of work, slip stitch back to
loop wrapped around your thumb, hook the far side of the loop over left-hand needle, turn work to begin knitting back in the other direction.
the top with the tip of the needle and pulling it toward you going under
Working Wraps Together with Wrapped Stitches:
the side of the loop nearest you.
When working rows which follow short rows, work the "wraps" at the
6. Then, with the tip of the needle reach over the top and catch the
turning points of the short rows, together with the stitches they wrap,
strand coming from your index finger over the top. You will notice that
as follows:
the loop around your thumb makes sort of a figure 8, pull the strand
you've just caught through the top of this figure 8 and drop the entire When working a RS row: Knit to wrapped stitch. Slip next stitch from
loop off your thumb. left needle to right needle, use tip of left needle to pick up "wrap" and
place it on right needle, insert left needle into both wrap and stitch, and
Repeat until you've reached the number of stitches you need.
knit them together.
When working a WS row: Purl to wrapped stitch. Slip next stitch from
Three Needle Bind-Off (3-needle cast off) left needle to right needle, use tip of left needle to pick up "wrap" and
Have the pieces to be joined on separate needles, hold together in the place it on right needle, slip both wrap and stitch back to left needle,
left hand with the wrong sides facing each other. Using a spare needle purl together through back loops.
and yarn tail, insert right needle into first st on front needle, then first
st on back needle and K2tog. *Insert right needle into next st on front
Kitchener stitch
needle, then next st on back needle and k2tog. Pass first st on right
needle over second st to BO 1 st. Rep from *. 1. Bring tapestry needle through front stitch as if to purl and leave stitch
on needle.
2. Bring tapestry needle through back stitch as if to knit and leave
Tubular Bind-Off for 1x1 rib
stitch on needle.
Cut yarn leaving a tail approx. 3 times the width of the piece to be
3. Bring tapestry needle through first front stitch as if to knit and slip
bound off. Thread the tail on a tapestry needle. These instructions
this stitch off needle. Bring tapestry needle through next front stitch as
assume the row/round begins with k1.
if to purl and leave stitch on needle.
Step 1: Insert tapestry needle into first st on knitting needle purlwise
4. Bring tapestry needle through first back stitch as if to purl and slip
and pull yarn through.
this stitch off, bring needle through next back stitch as if to knit, leave
Step 2: With tapestry needle behind the work, insert it knitwise into first this stitch on needle.
purl st on knitting needle and pull yarn through.
Repeat Step 3 & 4 until all sts are worked.
Step 3: Insert tapestry needle into first knit st knitwise but do not
pull yarn through, drop st from knitting needle. Insert tapestry needle
purlwise into next knit st and pull yarn through.
Step 4: Insert tapestry purlwise into first purl st but do not pull yarn
through, drop st from knitting needle. With tapestry needle behind the
work, insert it knitwise into next purl st and pull yarn through.
Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all sts are bound off.

95
Ekuni by amirisu

7½ (7¾, 8, 8½, 9, 9½)” 10 (9¾, 10½, 10¾,10¾, 11)”

19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24.5) cm 23 (25, 26, 27, 27, 28) cm

2”
5 cm

13½ (13½, 14¾, 15, 15, 15¾)”

34 (34, 36, 38, 38, 40 ) cm

43 (46, 48, 49¼, 52½, 54½)”

109 (117, 122, 125, 133, 138) cm
12¼ (12¼, 13, 13¾, 15, 15¾)”
31 (31, 33, 35, 38, 40) cm

¾”
2 cm

35½ (35½, 37, 38, 40¼, 42½)”

89 (89, 94, 96, 102, 108) cm

Specifications Stitch Guide

Garter Stripe pattern:
Yarn
Row 1 (RS) - 7: Work St st.
Fingering weight yarn
Row 8 (WS): Knit.
Approximately 980 (1050, 1170, 1260, 1410, 1540) yards, 900 (960,
1070, 1150, 1290, 1410) m Repeat Rows 1 - 8.

3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4) skeins of Parade (60% Wool, 20% Cotton, 10% Silk,

10% Linen; 420yards / 384m, 100g)
Instructions
Sample is shown in Jaipur
With Knitted Cast-On, CO 232 (232, 244, 250, 266, 280) sts using
Needles smaller needle.
A US 3 (3.25 mm) 32"/ 80 cm circular needle (Body) Row 1 (WS): Knit.
A US 2.5 (3 mm) 32"/ 80 cm circular needle (Garter st) Row 2 (RS): Knit.
Or, needles required to obtain gauge Repeat Rows 1 - 2 until hem measures ¾"/ 2 cm from CO edge, ending
with a WS row.
Gauge (after blocking)
Change to larger needle.
26 stitches & 36 rows = 4"/ 10 cm in St st with US 3 (3.25 mm) needle

Sizes Start Garter Stripe pattern.

Finished bust measurements: XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) = 43 (46, 48, 49,
Set-up Row 1 (RS): K50 (50, 52, 52, 54, 57), PM, K132 (132, 140, 146,
52¼, 54¼)"/ 109 (117, 122, 125, 133, 138) cm
158, 166), PM, K to end.
The sample was knit in size S with 13½" / 34 cm positive ease.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Tools Work Increase Row as follows:
Stitch markers (2), removable markers, waste yarn or stitch holder, ½"/ Increase Row A (RS): *K to 1 st before M, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L;
12 mm buttons (7 (7, 7, 7, 8, 9, 9)) repeat from * once more. (4 sts increased)

Skill Level Repeat Increase Row A every 8 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6) rows 12 (17, 17, 17, 15,
●●● 15) times more.
Sizes L, XL and XXL only
Notes
Work 5 rows in pattern.
Body is worked from bottom up in one piece with increases up to
Increase Row B (RS): K to 1 st before M, M1R, K1, SM, K to M, SM, K1,
underarm, then front and back are divided and worked in flat. While
M1L, K to end. (2 sts increased)
working shoulders with short rows, neckline is created with decreases
simultaneously. Once shoulders are sewn, button bands and neckline Repeat Increase Row B every - (-, -, 6, 6, 6) rows - (-, -, 2, 8, 8) times
are knitted. more.

96
All sizes Left Front
63 (68, 70, 73, 79, 82) sts for each front and 158 (168, 176, 182, 190, Place 63 (68, 70, 73, 79, 82) sts on larger needle and attach yarn with
198) sts for back. 284 (304, 316, 328, 348, 362) sts. RS facing.
Work even in pattern until body measures 13 (13, 13¾, 14½, 15¾, Work Garter Stripe pattern for 6¾ (6¾, 7, 7½, 7½, 7¾)"/ 17 (17, 18, 19,
16½)"/ 33 (33, 35, 37, 40, 42) cm from CO edge, ending with a WS row. 19, 20) cm, ending with a RS row.
Note: From this point, work St st. Work short rows as well as decreases
Separate Back and Fronts at a left hand side with RS facing. Read this entire section first before
working shoulder shaping.
Set-up Row (RS): K to M, RM, transfer sts on right needle to waste yarn
as right front, K to M, RM, transfer remaining sts to waste yarn as left Short-Row 1 (WS): BO 9 (10, 10, 11, 13, 13) sts, P to 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts
front. before end, TW.
Start decreases from Short-Row 2 (RS). Use K2tog when BO 1 st.

Back BO 1 st at end of RS row 3 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4) times, BO 1 st at end every 4

rows twice.
Work in pattern for 6¾ (6¾, 7, 7½, 7½, 7¾)"/ 17 (17, 18, 19, 19, 20) cm,
ending with a WS row. 5 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts decreased, 49 (52, 54, 56, 60, 63) sts.
AT THE SAME TIME, work short rows as follows:

Right Shoulder Shaping Short-Row 2: DS, K to end.

Set-up Row 1 (RS): K56 (60, 62, 64, 69, 72), transfer remaining 102 (108, Short-Row 3: P to 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts before last DS, TW.
114, 118, 121, 126) sts to waste yarn. Short-Row 4: DS, K to end.
Note: From this point, work St st instead. Work short rows as well as Repeat last 2 rows 6 times more.
decreases at a left hand side with RS facing. Read this entire section Short-Row 17(WS): P to end, working DS as one stitch.
first before working shoulder shaping.
Transfer all sts to waste yarn. Break yarn.
Start decreases from Short-Row 1 (WS). Use K2tog when BO 1 st.
BO 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3) sts at beginning of row once, BO 1 st at end every
Right Front
RS row 3 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4) times, then BO 1 st at end every 4 rows twice.
Place 63 (68, 70, 73, 79, 82) sts on larger needle and attach yarn with
7 (8, 8, 8, 9, 9) sts decreased, 49 (52, 54, 56, 60, 63) sts.
WS facing.
AT THE SAME TIME, work short rows as follows:
Work Garter Stripe pattern for 6¾ (6¾, 7, 7½, 7½, 7¾)"/ 17 (17, 18, 19,
Short-Row 1 (WS): P to 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts before end, TW. 19, 20) cm, ending with a WS row.
Short-Row 2 (RS): DS, K to end. Short-Row1 (RS): BO 9 (10, 10, 11, 13, 13) sts, K to 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts
Short-Row 3: P to 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts before last DS, TW before end, TW.
Short-Row 4: DS, K to end. Note: From this point, work St st. Work short rows as well as decreases
Repeat last 2 rows 6 times more. at a right hand side with RS facing. Read this entire section first before
working shoulder shaping.
Short-Row 17 (WS): P to end, working DS as one stitch.
Use SSK when BO 1 st.
Transfer all sts to waste yarn. Break yarn.
BO 1 st at beginning of RS row 3 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4) times, BO 1 st at
beginning every 4 rows twice.
Left Shoulder Shaping
5 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts decreased, 49 (52, 54, 56, 60, 63) sts.
Place 102 (108, 114, 118, 121, 126) sts on larger needle and attach
AT THE SAME TIME, work short rows as follows:
yarn with RS facing.
Short-Row 2 (WS): DS, P to end.
Short-Row 1 (Set-up Row, RS): BO 48 (50, 54, 56, 55, 57) sts, K to 4 (5,
5, 5, 6, 6) sts before end, TW. Short-Row 3: K to 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts before last DS, TW.

Note: From this point, work St st. Work short rows as well as decreases Short-Row 4: DS, P to end.
at a right hand side with RS facing. Read this entire section first before Repeat last 2 rows 6 times more.
working shoulder shaping. Short-Row 17 (RS): K to end, working DS as one stitch.
Use SSK when BO 1 st. Transfer all sts to waste yarn. Break yarn.
BO 1 st at beginning of RS row 3 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4) times, BO 1 st at Hold fronts and back together with RS facing each other, work Three-
beginning every 4 rows twice. Needle Bind Off to seam shoulders.
5 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts decreased, 49 (52, 54, 56, 60, 63) sts.
AT THE SAME TIME, work short rows as follows: Sleeves
Short-Row 2(WS): DS, P to end. Using smaller needle, attach yarn at underarm, pick up and knit
Short-Row 3: K to 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts before last DS, TW. stitches at the rate of 2 sts from 3 rows. PM and join in the round.
Short-Row 4: DS, P to end. Note: Pick up the same number of sts from front and back respectively.
Repeat last 2 rows 6 times more. Starting from purl row, work 7 rows in Garter st.
Short-Row 17(RS): K to end, working DS as one stitch. Next row: RM, BO all sts in pattern. Break yarn.
Transfer all sts to waste yarn. Break yarn. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

97
Neckline Right Button Band with Buttonholes
Starting from right front, using smaller needle, attach yarn with RS Attach removable markers to mark buttonholes, starting at ¾"/ 2 cm
facing. Pick up and knit every sts from BO edge and sts at the rate of 2 from the bottom and every 2¼"/ 6 cm to the neck.
sts from 3 rows from the rest. Note: With correct gauge, markers are attached every 3 garter ridges
Note: Pick up the same number of sts from right and left fronts. in Garter Stripe pattern. A buttonhole at the top is not necessarily
Work 7 rows in Garter st. required.

Next row: BO all sts in pattern. Break yarn. Starting from hem, using smaller needle, attach yarn. Pick up and knit
stitches at the rate of 2 sts from 3 rows. Make sure to have the same
stitch count with left button band.
Left Button Band
Work 3 rows in Garter st.
Starting from neck, using smaller needle, attach yarn. Pick up and
Buttonhole Row (RS): *K to removable M, YO, K2tog; repeat from * as
knit stitches at the rate of 2 sts from 3 rows. Make a note of the stitch
many times as a number of buttonholes, K to end.
count.
Work 3 rows in Garter st.
Work 7 rows in Garter st.
Next row: BO all sts in pattern. Break yarn.
Next row: BO all sts in pattern. Break yarn.

Finishing
Sew buttons on left button band. Weave ends in and block to the
measurements.

98
 Spring Moon by Andrea Mowry

9½ (9½, 9½, 9¾, 10, 10)”

24 (24, 24, 25, 25.5, 25.5) cm
11 (12, 13, 14, 16, 18)”
28 (30.5, 33, 35.5, 40.5, 46) cm
2”
5 cm

8¼ (9, 10, 11, 13, 15)”

21 (23, 25.5, 28, 33, 38) cm
5½ (6, 6½, 7, 8, 9)”
14 (15.5, 16.5, 18, 20.5, 23) cm

14½”
37 cm

42 (44, 46, 50, 54, 58)”

107 (112, 117, 127, 137, 147) cm

Specifications Notes
The sweater is knitted flat from the bottom up with no seams. The
Yarn
bottom hem is worked separately in 3 parts and then joined to knit the
Worsted weight yarn
body. The rows of the body end and begin in 6 stitches of garter for the
Approximately 860 (925, 990, 1100, 1240, 1390) yards / 790 (845, 905, back button band. The sweater ends at the neck with a garter detail
1010, 1135, 1275) m and short row shaping. Sleeves are picked up and knit out from the
Mungo (50% Recycled Wool 50% Recycled Cotton / 240 yards / 220 m, armholes.
100g)
Sample is shown in Natural 001 - 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins Stitch Guide

Needles One-Row Buttonhole (1RBH)

A US 7 (4.5 mm) 32"/ 80 cm (or longer) circular needle On a RS row, Sl 1 wyf, K1, Sl 1 wyf, wyb *Sl 1, pass first slipped stitch
A US 8 (5 mm) 32"/ 80 cm (or longer) circular needle over; repeat from * twice more. Slip last stitch back to the left needle.
Turn and using the Cable Cast-On method, CO 4 stitches. Turn, Sl 1
A set of US 7 (4.5 mm) double pointed needles (DPNs)
and pass the 4th cast on stitch over the top. Proceed with the rest of
A set of US 8 (5 mm) double pointed needles (DPNs) the row as directed.
Or needles to obtain gauge

Gauge (after blocking)

18 stitches & 26 rows = 4” / 10 cm in St st with US 8 (5 mm) needle

Sizes
Finished bust measurements: XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) = 42 (44, 46, 50, 54,
58)"/ 107 (112, 117, 127, 137, 147) cm
The sample was knit in size S with 11½" / 29 cm positive ease.

Tools
Stitch markers (8), cable needle, tapestry needle, waste yarn, ⅝”/15
mm buttons (9)

Skill Level
●●●

99
Instructions Shoulder Shaping

Body Note: Picking up wraps is not necessary since shoulder shaping is

done in garter stitch.
Front Hem
Short Row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyf, K to the last 3 (2, 3, 2, 2, 2) sts, W&T.
With Twisted German Cast-On method and smaller needles, CO 94
(100, 104, 112, 122, 130) sts. Do not join to work in the round. Short Row 2 (WS): K.

Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyf, K to end. Short Row 3: K to 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts before the previously wrapped
stitch, W&T.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1 wyf, K to end.
Short Row 4: K.
Repeat previous 2 rows until garter hem measures 2" / 5 cm from the
CO edge, ending with a WS row. Break yarn and place stitches on hold. Repeat previous 2 rows 3 more times.
Short Row 11: K to 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts before the previously wrapped
stitch, W&T.
Right Back Hem
Short Row 12: K.
With Twisted German Cast-On method and smaller needles, CO 50 (53,
55, 59, 64, 68) sts. Do not join to work in the round. Repeat previous 2 rows 3 more times.

Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyf, K to end.

Row 2 (RS): Sl1 wyf, K to end. Next Row (RS): BO 23 (23, 23, 25, 26, 26) sts, P to the end. Place
remaining 27 (30, 32, 34, 38, 42) sts on hold for shoulder.
Repeat previous 2 rows until garter hem measure 3" / 7.5 cm from the
CO edge, ending with a WS row. Break yarn and place stitches on hold.
Right Back Panel

Left Back Hem With RS facing, place 50 (53, 55, 59, 64, 68) held stitches for the Right
Back Panel on the needle and join yarn.
Repeat the directions for the Right Back Panel, placing a buttonhole on
a RS row at ½" / 1 cm from the CO edge with the 1RBH method. Do Row 1 (RS): K.
not break yarn or place stitches on hold at the end of this section. Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyf, K5, P to the end.

Join Backs & Front Repeat previous 2 rows for 4½ (5, 5½, 6, 7, 8)" / 11.5 (12.5, 14, 15, 18,
Using larger needles with RS facing, Sl 1 wyf, K across 49 (52, 54, 58, 20.5) cm, remembering to include garter ridges.
63, 67) sts of the Left Back Panel, place held stitches for the Front
Panel onto needle, join and K across 94 (100, 104, 112, 122, 130) sts Next Row (RS): K.
for Front, place held stitches for Right Back Panel onto needle, join and
Next Row (WS): Sl1 wyf, K to end.
K across 50 (53, 55, 59, 64, 68) sts.
Repeat previous 2 rows for 1" / 2.5 cm, ending with a RS row.
194 (206, 214, 230, 250, 266) total body stitches.
Setup Row (WS): Sl1 wyf, K5, P to the last 6 sts, K6.
Shoulder Shaping
Row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyf, K to end.
Note: Picking up wraps is not necessary since shoulder shaping is
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyf, K5, P to the last 6 sts, K6.
done in garter stitch.
Continue repeating the previous 2 rows, working a garter ridge every
Short Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyf, K to the last 3 (2, 3, 2, 2, 2) sts, W&T.
12 (14, 14, 14, 16, 16)th row by knitting a WS row as follows: Sl1 wyf, K
Short Row 2 (RS): K.
to end.
Short Row 3: K to 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts before the previously wrapped
stitch, W&T.
AT THE SAME TIME, place a buttonhole using the 1RBH method every
Short Row 4: K.
2½ (2½, 2½, 2½, 2¾, 2¾)"/ 6.5 (6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7) cm measuring from
the center of the previous buttonhole, for a total of 9 buttonholes. Repeat previous 2 rows 3 more times.
Short Row 11: K to 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts before the previously wrapped
stitch, W&T.
Continue as established until piece measures 14½" / 37 cm from the
Back CO edge, ending with a WS row. Short Row 12: K.
Repeat previous 2 rows 3 more times.

Separate Front & Backs

Left Back Panel Next Row (WS): BO 23 (23, 23, 25, 26, 26) sts, K to end. Place
remaining 27 (30, 32, 34, 38, 42) sts on hold for shoulder.
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyf, K49 (52, 54, 58, 63, 67), using a spare needle or
waste yarn, place the next 94 (100, 104, 112, 122, 130) sts on hold for
the Front and the last 50 (53, 55, 59, 64, 68) sts on hold for the Right
Back Panel.
Row 2 (WS): P to the last 6 sts, K6.

Repeat previous 2 rows for 4½ (5, 5½, 6, 7, 8)" / 11.5 (12.5, 14, 15, 18,
20.5) cm, remembering to include garter ridges and buttonholes.

Next Row (RS): Sl1 wyf, K to end.

Next Row (WS): K.
Repeat previous 2 rows for 1" / 2.5 cm, ending with a WS row.

100
Front Bind-Off Shoulders
With RS facing, place 94 (100, 104, 112, 122, 130) held stitches for the With the front of the sweater facing, join live front and back shoulder
Front onto needle and join yarn. stitches using the 3 Needle Bind-Off Method with wrong sides facing
Row 1 (RS): K. each other to create an exposed shoulder seam.

Row 2 (WS): P.
Repeat previous 2 rows for 4½ (5, 5½, 6, 7, 8)" / 11.5 (12.5, 14, 15, 18, Sleeves
20.5) cm, remembering to include garter ridges. Using larger needles and starting at the underarm, pick up and K 50 (54,
58, 62, 72, 80) sts around the armhole. Place BORM and join to work in
the round.
Next Row: K.
Repeat previous row for 1" / 2.5 cm, ending with a WS row.
K 2 rounds.

Shoulder Shaping
Sleeve Decrease Round: K1, K2tog, K to the last 3 sts, SSK, K1. 2 sts
Note: Picking up wraps is not necessary since shoulder shaping is
decreased.
done in garter stitch.
Continue to work even in St st, repeating the Sleeve Decrease Round
Short Row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyf, K to the last 3 (2, 3, 2, 2, 2) sts, W&T.
every 6th round, 5 more times. 10 sts decreased. Total 38 (42, 46, 50,
Short Row 2 (WS): Repeat Short Row 1.
60, 68) sts.
Short Row 3: K to 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts before the previously wrapped
stitch, W&T.
Knit 1 round.
Repeat previous row 7 more times.
Short Row 11: K to 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts before the previously wrapped
Change to smaller needles.
stitch, W&T.
Round 1: K.
Repeat previous row 7 more times.
Round 2: P.
Repeat the previous 2 rounds for 1" / 2.5 cm.
Next Short Row (RS): BO 40 (40, 40, 44, 46, 46) sts, P to the end. Place
remaining 27 (30, 32, 34, 38, 42) sts on hold for shoulder. Break yarn.
Bind off all stitches.

Join yarn back at the other front shoulder with WS facing (at the neck
edge), K to end. Break yarn. Finishing
Weave in all loose ends. Block the cardigan. Sew on buttons.

Bird Chart

(RS)
P
(WS)
K2tog

SSK
Repeat = 28 rows
YO

Place 2sts on CN, hold to front;

Place 2sts on another CN, hold to back;
K2; P2 from back CN; K2 from front CN
Repeat

101
Bird by amirisu

10½ (10¾, 10¾, 11¼, 11¼, 11¼)”

26.5 (27.5, 27.5, 28.5, 28.5, 28.5) cm

16½ (16½, 19, 20½, 21¼, 22¾)”

42 (42, 48, 52, 54, 58) cm 24¾ (25½, 27½, 28¼, 29¾, 31¼)”
63 (65, 70, 72, 75.5. 79.5) cm
11½ (11½, 11¾, 12¼, 12¼, 12¾)”
29 (29, 30, 31, 31, 32) cm

17¼ (18, 19, 21¼, 22, 23½)”

44 (46, 48, 54, 56, 60) cm
8¾ (9½, 10¾, 11¾, 17¾, 14¼)”
22 (24, 27, 30, 32.5, 36.5) cm

Specifications Notes
Starting from center back neck, left collar and left front are knitted
Yarn
continuously, then stitches are picked up from CO and right collar and
Fingering weight yarn
right front are knitted. After blocking collar and fronts, back is knitted
Approximately 860 (990, 1080, 1290, 1480, 1640) yards / 790 ( 905, down by picking up stitches from back collar. Once sides are seamed
990, 1180, 1355, 1500) m sleeves are knitted down in the round picking up stitches directly from
4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 7) skeins of Wanderlust linen (100% Linen, 268 yards / 245 armholes.
m, 50g) Due to the gauge difference of the lace pattern for Fronts before and
Sample is shown in Yucatan 08 after blocking, carefully measure sides of front and decide back length.
Read the chart from left to right on WS, and from right to left on RS.
Needles
A US 3 (3.25 mm) 32"/ 80 cm (or longer) circular needle Instructions
Or, needles required to obtain gauge Left Collar and Left Front

Gauge (after blocking) With Long-Tail Cast-On method, CO 50 (54, 62, 66, 70, 78) sts.
20 stitches & 35 rows = 4"/ 10 cm in St st with US 3 (3.25 mm) needle Row 1 (WS): K1, P1, K1, P1, PM, work Row 1 of Chart once, PM, P1,
26 stitches & 30 rows = 4"/ 10 cm in lace pattern with US 3 (3.25 mm) K1, PM, *K2, P2; repeat from * to 6 sts before end, K2, P1, PM, P3.
needle Row 2 (RS): Sl3 wyb, SM, * K2, P2; repeat from * to 3 sts before M, K2,
Note: Blocking opens up yarn-overs in the lace pattern, resulting in P1, SM, P1, K1, SM, work next row of Chart once, SM, K1, P1, K2.
obtaining very different gauge before and after blocking. Make sure to Row 3 (WS): K1, P1, K1, P1, SM, work next row of Chart once, SM, P1,
get gauge after blocking. K1, SM, *K2, P2; repeat from * to 3 sts before M, K2, P1, SM, P3.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for 192 (194, 210, 222, 228, 240) rows, ending
Sizes
with a WS row.
Finished bust measurements: XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) = 34½ (37, 41¾, 45,
47½, 49¼)" / 88 (94, 106, 114, 121, 125) cm Note: Repeat Rows 1 - 28 of Chart. Make a note of which row in the
chart has been worked as the last row in order to match the pattern
The sample was knit in size S with 4½" / 11 cm positive ease.
with Right collar and Right front.
Tools Left Front Hem
JP 3 (3 mm) crochet hook, tapestry needle, stitch markers (4), Row 1 (RS): Sl3 wyb, SM, *K2, P2; repeat from * to 3 sts before M, K2,
removable markers (2), cable needles (2) P1, SM, K to end, removing remaining markers.

Skill Level Row 2 (WS): K to M, SM, *K2, P2; repeat from * to 3 sts before M, K2,
●●● P1, SM, P3.

102
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 2"/ 5 cm, ending with a WS row. Side Seams
Next row: BO all sts knitwise. Break yarn. On underarm side of Left Front, place a removable marker at 11½ (11½,
11¾, 12¼, 12¼, 12¾)” / 29 (29, 30, 31, 31, 32) cm cm from BO.

Right Collar and Right Front With RS facing, lay Back and Left Front side by side and using mattress
stitch, seam left side of Back (from BO to where increase row is done)
Set-up row (WS): With WS facing, attach yarn, pick up and knit 50 (54,
and side of Left Front (from BO to M just attached).
62, 66, 70, 78) sts from CO edge.
Seam right side in the same way.
Row 1 (RS): K2, P1, K1, PM, work Row 2 of Chart once, PM, K1, P1,
PM, *P2, K2; repeat from * to 6 sts before end, P2, K1, PM, K3.
Row 2 (WS): Sl3 wyf, SM, *P2, K2; repeat from * to 3 sts before M, P2, Left Sleeve
K1, SM, K1, P1, SM, work next row of Chart once, SM, P1, K1, P1, K1. Pick up sts for left sleeve.
Row 3: K2, P1, K1, SM, work next row of Chart once, SM, K1, P1, SM, Attach yarn in the center of CO edge at left underarm in Back, with RS
*P2, K2; repeat from * to 3 sts before M, P2, K1, SM, K3. facing, pick up and knit 6 (6, 8, 10, 10, 12) sts from CO, sts at the rate
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for 191 (193, 209, 221, 227, 239) rows, ending of 2 sts for 3 rows from Left Front and Back, and 6 (6, 8, 10, 10, 12)
with a WS row. sts from CO. Place BORM and join in the round. This marker indicates
center underarm.
Work St st for 9½ (9¾, 9¾, 10¼, 10¼, 10¼)" / 24 (25, 25, 26, 26, 26)
Note: Match the last row which has been just worked with the last row
cm.
of Left Front.

Left Cuff
Right Front Hem
Rnd 1: P
Row 1 (RS): Removing first and second markers, K to third M, SM, *P2,
K2; repeat from * to 3 sts before M, P2, K1, SM, K3. Rnd 2: K

Row 2 (WS): Sl3 wyf, SM, *P2, K2; repeat from * to 3 sts before M, P2, Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 (garter st) for ¾"/ 2 cm, ending with Row 1.
K1, SM, K to end. Next rnd: BO all sts knitwise.
Row 3: K to M, SM, *P2, K2; repeat from * to 3 sts before M, P2, K1,
SM, K3. Right Sleeve
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 2"/ 5 cm, ending with a WS row. Work Right Sleeve in the same way. (Pick up same number of sts.)
Next row: BO all sts knitwise. Break yarn.
Block Fronts to measurements. Finishing
Weave ends in and block to measurements.
Back
Lay a long rectangle piece for Fronts and Collar and place two
removable markers on the long lace pattern side at 7½ (7¾, 8¼, 8¾, 9,
9½)" / 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24) cm each side from center back neck (where
CO edge used to be).

Set-up row: With RS facing, pick up and knit sts between markers at
the rate of 2 sts for 3 rows.
Row 1 (WS): K1, P to 1 st before end, K1.
Row 2 (RS): K.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 6 (6, 6¼, 6¼, 6¾, 6¾)"/ 15 (15, 16, 16, 17, 17)
cm, ending with a RS row.
Increase row 1 (WS): With WS facing, using Knitted Cast-On method,
CO12 (12, 16, 20, 20, 24) sts on left needle, K1, P to 1 st before end,
K1.
Increase row 2 (RS): With RS facing, using Knitted Cast-On method,
CO12 (12, 16, 20, 20, 24) sts on left needle, K to end.
Row 1 (WS): K1, P to 1 st before end, K1.
Row 2 (RS): K.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 84 (84, 88, 92, 92, 94) rows, ending with a RS
row.

Back Hem
Row 1 (WS): K.
Row 2 (RS): K.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 2"/ 5 cm, ending with a WS row.
Next row (RS): BO all sts knitwise.

103
Luberon by Bernice Lim

Specifications 49 sts have been worked, 0 (5, 10, 15, 20, 25) sts remain.
Work Rows 1-8 of Chart 1 of your size over 49 (54, 59, 64, 69, 74) sts, 3
Yarn (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) times.
Lace weight yarn
You have 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) flower motifs.
(MC) Approximately 895 (990, 1080, 1225, 1315, 1460) yards, 820 (905,
Work Rows 1-8 of Chart 2.
990, 1120, 1205, 1335) m
Note: You will decrease 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) sts with P2tog in Row 1 of
(CC) Approximately 66 yards, 60 m
the chart.
95 (105, 115, 130, 140, 155) g of Habu 2/17 Tsumugi (100% silk; 450
42 (46, 50, 54, 58, 62) sts.
yards / 411 m, 48g)
Continue with Rows 9-16 of Chart 2, then repeat Rows 9-15(RS).
Sample shown in Color 12
Next row (WS):
5g of Shibui Knits Silk Cloud (60% kid mohair, 40% silk; 330 yards /
300 m, 25g) Sizes XS, M and XL only: K2, P1, YO, P1, M1R, K1, P3, *M1R, K1, P1,
YO, P1, M1R, K1, P3; repeat from * to last 9 sts, K2, P7.
Sample shown in Ivory
Sizes S, L and XXL only: K2, P3, *M1R, K1, P1, YO, P1, M1R, K1, P3;
Needles repeat from * to last 9 sts, K2, P7.
A US 4 (3.5 mm) 24"/ 60 cm (or longer) circular needle 49 (54, 59, 64, 69, 74) sts.
A US 6 (4 mm) 16"/ 40 cm circular needle Repeat Rows 1-8 of Chart 1 two (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) times.
Or, needle required to obtain gauge You have 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15) flower motifs.

Gauge (after blocking) Break yarn and place all sts on hold.
28 stitches and 30 rows = 4"/ 10 cm in St st with US 4 (3.5 mm) needle
27.5 sts and 26 rows = 4"/ 10 cm in mock cable pattern with US 4 (3.5 Left Yoke
mm) needle With Long-Tail Cast-On method, CO 49 (54, 59, 64, 69, 74) sts.
Next row (WS): P14, TW.
Sizes
Finished chest measurements: XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) = 34½ (38, 41¼, Work Rows 1-16 of Short Row Chart for Left Yoke.
44¾, 48, 51½)" / 88 (96.5, 105, 113.5, 122, 130.5) cm For all sizes except for XS, P all remaining sts to end.
The sample was knit in size S with 5½" / 13.5 cm positive ease. 49 (54, 59, 64, 69, 74) sts
Work Rows 1-8 of Chart 3 of your size over 49 (54, 59, 64, 69, 74) sts, 3
Tools
(4, 4, 5, 5, 6) times.
Stitch markers (2), tapestry needle, waste yarn or stitch holder
You have 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) flower motifs.
Skill Level Work Rows 1-8 of Chart 4.
●●●
Note: You will decrease 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) sts with P2tog in Row 1 of
Notes the chart.
The pullover is knit from top down, starting with lace panels that are 42 (46, 50, 54, 58, 62) sts.
worked flat separately and shaped with short rows, decreases and Continue with Rows 9-16 of Chart 4, then repeat Rows 9-15(RS).
increases. The lace panels are joined to form the yoke. It is important Next row (WS):
to ensure accurate row gauge for the lace panels so that armholes are
Sizes XS, M and XL only: P7, K2, P3, K1, M1L, *P1, YO, P1, K1, M1L,
the right size and the front of the yoke finishes just above bust line.
P3, K1, M1L; repeat from * to last 5 sts, P1, YO, P1, K2.
Stitches are picked up from WS of the yoke and knit in the round for
the body, then split to work flat to create side slits. Lace inserts are Sizes S, L and XXL only: P7, K2, *P3, K1, M1L, P1, YO, P1, K1, M1L;
worked flat with CC and blocked to measurement. Lace inserts are repeat from * to last 5 sts, P3, K2.
then sewn to side slits. 49 (54, 59, 64, 69, 74) sts.
Repeat Rows 1-8 of Chart 3 two (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) times.
Stitch Guide You have 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15) flower motifs.
Mock cable stitch:
Sl1 purlwise, K2, then pass slipped st over the 2 knit sts (1 st Join back of Left Yoke and back of Right Yoke
decreased) Transfer Right Yoke sts onto working needle so that flower motifs of
both yoke pieces are placed side by side in the center, and mock cable
ribs are on the sides.
Instructions Next row(RS): Work Row 1 of Chart 3 for Left Yoke, followed by Row 1
Right Yoke of Chart 1 for Right Yoke.
Flower motifs mentioned here are the lace pattern right next to the Next row(WS): Work Row 2 of Chart 1 for Right Yoke, followed by Row
mock cables. 2 of Chart 3 for Left Yoke.
With MC, smaller needles, and Long-Tail Cast-On method, CO 49 (54, 98 (108, 118, 128, 138, 148) sts.
59, 64, 69, 74) sts. Next 6 rows: Continue joining yokes working Rows 3-8 of Chart 3 and
Next row (WS): P all sts. Chart 1 back and forth in the same way.
Work Rows 1-16 of Short Row Chart for Right Yoke. Repeat last 8 rows once.
BO loosely knitwise.

104
 6 (6¾, 7¼, 7¾, 8½, 9)"
15.5 (17, 18.5, 20, 21.5, 23) cm

6 (6¾, 7¼, 7¾, 8½, 9)" 14 (15¼, 16¾, 18¼, 19½, 21)"
15.5 (17, 18.5, 20, 21.5, 23) cm 35.5 (39, 42.5, 46, 50, 53.5) cm

34½ (38, 41¼, 44¾, 48, 51½)" 28¼, 28¾, 29¼, 30, 30½, 31)"
88 (96.5, 105, 113.5, 122, 130.5) cm 71.5 (73, 74.5, 76, 77.5, 79) cm
10¾"
27 cm

10¾"
27 cm

Body Repeat last 2 rows 34 more times (68 rows).

Pick up sts for Body Rows 76 (RS)-81 (WS): K all sts.
Row 1(WS): With WS of work facing you, pick up 98 (108, 118, 128, Row 82 (RS): BO loosely. Break yarn, leaving a 32"/ 80 cm tail for
138, 148) sts from BO edge of back of Yoke, followed by 49 (54, 59, 64, sewing lace insert to side slit.
69, 74) sts from CO edge of front of Left Yoke and 49 (54, 59, 64, 69, Transfer sts for Back onto working needle and attach yarn on RS.
74) sts from CO edge of front of Right Yoke. Picking up sts from WS
K all sts.
creates a decorative line between Yoke and Body on the RS.
K3, P to 3 sts before end of row, K3.
196 (216, 236, 256, 276, 296) sts.
Repeat Rows 6-82.
Do not join in the round. TW.

Lace Inserts
Body Increases
With CC, larger needles, and Cable Cast-On method, CO 35 sts.
Row 2 (RS): Work * [K5, YO] 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) times, [K1, YO] 8
Work Chart for Lace Insert. BO all sts.
times, [K5, YO] 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) times, K5 * for Front, PM, repeat
from * to * once more for Back. Repeat to make 2nd lace insert.

50 (54, 58, 62, 66, 70) sts increased. Block lace inserts to 10½ / 27 cm in height and 6¼ / 16 cm in width
across the widest part at the base.
246 (270, 294, 318, 342, 366) sts.
Row 3: Place BORM and join to work in the round. K to end, working
all yo’s from previous row as ktbl. Sew Lace Inserts to Side Slits

Work 9 rounds even in St st. Thread tapestry needle with the tail reserved on the hem for seaming.
With WS of lace insert and WS of side slit facing you, overlap garter
Increase rnd: (K1, M1R, K to 1 st before M, M1L, K1, SM) twice. 4 sts
edges of the slit and across the top of the slit with lace insert.
increased.
You have 62 rows in lace insert and 41 garter ridges (1 ridge = 2 garter
Repeat last 10 rounds until body measures 10¾" / 27 cm from pick-up
rows) on each slit edge. Using whip stitch, sew the lace insert to the
row.
3rd purl bump (the 3rd st) of garter ridge at the rate of 3 rows for 2
ridges: (sew 1 row to 1 ridge) 2 times, skip 1 row. Make sure that the
Divide Front and Back tension of your whip stitch is loose enough to allow the seamed parts
Rnd 1: P3, K to 3 sts before M, P3, SM, P3, K to 3 sts before BORM, to have a relaxed drape.
P3. Repeat for the other lace insert.
Rnd 2: K all sts, slipping markers.
Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 1. Finishing
Row 4 (RS): K Front sts to M, RM. Sew running stitches for 1" (2.5 cm) on each side of the front V-neck
Place sts for Back onto stitch holder or waste yarn. and pull gently to create gathers on the body just under the V-shape of
From now on, you will work back and forth. the yoke. Secure the gathers and weave in the remaining of the end.
Weave in all other ends, sew underarms if needed. Block flower lace
Row 5 (WS): K3, P to 3 sts before BORM, K3, RM, TW.
motifs on the yoke to create a slightly wavy edge for the neck opening.
Row 6 (RS): K all sts.
Block the rest of the garment to measurements.
Row 7 (WS): K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

105
Chart 1 / Yoke, Right Side

(WS) (WS)

(RS) (RS)

SIZE S, L, XXL ONLY

SIZE S, L, XXL ONLY / S, L, XXL サイズのみ
SIZE XS, M, XL ONLY
SIZE XS, M, XL ONLY / XS, M, XL サイズのみ

Chart 2 / Yoke, Right Side

(WS)
(RS)
(WS)
(RS) SIZE XS, M, XL ONLY / XS, M, XL サイズのみ

SIZE
SIZE S, L, XXL ONLY S, サイズのみ
/ S, L, XXL L, XXL ONLY SIZE XS, M, XL ONLY

Chart 3 / Yoke, Left Side

(WS)
(RS)
(WS)
(RS) SIZE XS, M, XL ONLY / XS, M, XL サイズのみ

SIZE S, L, XXL ONLY / S, L, XXL サイズのみ SIZE XS, M, XL ONLY

SIZE S, L, XXL ONLY

Chart 4 / Yoke, Left Side

(WS)
(RS) (WS)
(RS)
SIZE S, L, XXL ONLY / S, L, XXL サイズのみ
SIZE XS, M, XL ONLY / XS, M, XL サイズのみ
SIZE S, L, XXL ONLY SIZE XS, M, XL ONLY

Short Row Chart for Left Yoke

(WS)
(RS)

106
Short Row Chart for Right Yoke

(WS)
(RS)

Lace Insert
(RS) K / (WS) P
(RS) P / (WS) K
7 sts / 7 目
K2tog
9 sts / 9 目 SSK
S2KP
11 sts / 11 目
K3tog
YO
no stitch
(RS) P2tog / (WS) K2tog
(RS) SSP / (WS) SSK
17 sts / 17 目 BO
Double Stitch
Mock cable stitch: sl1 purlwise, K2, psso
Repeate

23 sts / 23 目

29 sts / 29 目

31 sts / 31 目

33 sts / 33 目

(WS)
(RS) 35 sts / 35 目

107
Minamikaze by Alice Caetano

Specifications Instructions
Base top
Yarn
Fingering weight yarn Back right shoulder shaping

Approximately 975 (1070, 1170, 1270) (1400, 1500, 1650, 1775) yards / * With Crochet Provisional Cast-On, CO 11 (12, 13, 13) (13, 14, 14, 15)
895 (980, 1070, 1165) (1280, 1370, 1510, 1620) m sts using larger needle and waste yarn.

WalkCollection Linea (50% alpaca, 25% linen, 25% silk; 437 yards / Row 1 (RS): K to end. Place a removable stitch marker through last st
400 m, 100g) to mark start of armhole.

Sample shown in Apollo 3 (3, 3, 3) (4, 4, 4, 5) skeins Row 2 (WS): P to end.

Short Row 1 (RS): K4, TW.
Needles
Short Row 2 (WS): DS, P to end.
A US 4 (3.5 mm) 32"/ 80 cm (or longer) circular needle
Short Row 3: K to 4 sts after previous DS, TW.
A US 2.5 (3 mm) 32"/ 80 cm (or longer) circular needle
Short Row 4: DS, P to end.
A US 2.5 (3 mm) 16"/ 40 cm circular needle
Repeat last 2 short rows - (-, -, -) (-, 1, 1, 1) more time.
Or needles to obtain gauge

Gauge (after blocking) Back right neck shaping

22 sts & 32 rows / rounds = 4" / 10 cm in St st with US 4 (3.5 mm) Note: to create a smooth finish when casting on at the neck or armhole
needle edges, after completing the Crochet Cast-On at the beginning of the
row, slip the first st (the st that was transferred from hook to needle)
Sizes
without working it.
Finished chest measurements: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL) = 30¾
(33¾, 36½, 39¼) (43, 45¾, 48¾, 51½)" / 78 (85.5, 92.5, 100) (109, Working in St st as established, with Crochet Cast-On, CO 1 st at the
116.5, 123.5, 131) cm start of the next 2 RS rows, then 2 sts at the start of the next 3 RS
rows, then 4 sts at the start of the next 1 RS row. 23 (24, 25, 25) (25,
The sample was knit in size S with 1" / 2.5 cm positive ease.
26, 26, 27) sts.
Tools Next Row (WS): P to end.
Waste yarn, removable stitch markers (minimum 4), stitch markers Break yarn and place all sts on waste yarn.
(6), crochet hook for (provisional) cast-on and picking up sts, tapestry
needle
Back left shoulder shaping
Skill Level With Crochet Provisional Cast-On, CO 11 (12, 13, 13) (13, 14, 14, 15)
●●● sts using larger needle and waste yarn.

Notes Row 1 (RS): K to end. Place a removable stitch marker through first st
Tank top is worked in the round from the top down. Shaping shoulders to mark start of armhole.
with German short rows, base top is worked first, flat until the Short Row 1 (WS): P4, TW.
underarms then joined in the round with increases at sides from bust to Short Row 2 (RS): DS, K to end.
hem. Overlay top is worked second, identical to the base top until the
Short Row 3: P to 4 sts after previous DS, TW.
underarms, then joined in the round with increases at 6 points around
Short Row 4: DS, K to end.
the body, creating a shorter, wider top. Back of overlay is lowered with
short rows. Overlay and base tops are joined by picking up and knitting Repeat last 2 short rows - (-, -, -) (-, 1, 1, 1) more time.
neck-band and armhole edgings through both tops. Next Row (WS): P to end.
Next Row (RS): K to end.
When casting on at edges of garment, as for neck and armhole edges,
cast-on sts are made at the start of rows and thus will be made onto Back left neck shaping
the left-hand needle; these can then be worked regularly as part of the Continue working in St st as established. With Crochet Cast-On, CO 1
row. Likewise when casting on at center of neck. st at the start of the next 2 WS rows, then 2 sts at the start of the next
3 WS rows, then 4 sts at the start of the next 1 WS row. 23 (24, 25, 25)
Stitch Guide (25, 26, 26, 27) sts.
Stretchy Bind-Off:
K2, *insert LH needle into the 2 sts on RH as if to transfer them back Joining back
onto LH and knit them together tbl, K1; repeat from * until 2 sts remain, Next Row (RS): K to end, TW so WS is facing, with Crochet Cast-
K2tog tbl, pull yarn through. On CO 22 (22, 24, 24) (26, 26, 28, 28) sts, TW so RS is facing again,
transfer right shoulder sts from waste yarn onto needle and K to end.
68 (70, 74, 74) (76, 78, 80, 82) sts.
Work even until piece measures 6¼ (6½, 6½, 6½) (6½, 6½, 6½, 6¾)" /
15.5 (16.5, 16.5, 16.5) (16.5, 16.5, 16.5, 17) cm from markers at start of
armhole, ending with a WS row.

108
 2¾ (3, 3, 3) (3, 3¼, 3¼, 3½)" 7½ (7½, 7¾, 7¾) (8¼, 8¼, 8½, 8½)"
7 (7.5, 8, 8) (8, 8.5, 8.5, 9) cm 19 (19, 20, 20) (20.5, 20.5, 21.5, 21.5) cm
1½ (1½, 1½, 1½) (1½, 1¾, 1¾, 1¾)"
4 (4, 4, 4) (4, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5) cm

4 (4¼, 4½, 4¾) (4¾, 5, 5¼, 5½)"

10 (11, 11.5, 12) (12, 13, 13.5, 14) cm 6¾ (7¼, 7½, 7¾) (8¼, 8½, 9, 9¼)"
17 (18.5, 19, 19.5) (21, 21.5, 23, 23.5) cm
6½ (6½, 6¾, 7) (7¼, 7¼, 7¾, 7¾)"
16.5 (16.5, 17, 17.5) (18, 18, 19.5, 19.5) cm

30¾ (33¾, 36½, 39¼) (43, 45¾, 48¾, 51½)"

8¼ (8¼, 8½, 8¾) (9, 9, 9½, 9½)" 78 (85.5, 92.5, 100) (109, 116.5, 123.5, 131) cm
21 (21, 22, 22.5) (23, 23, 24.5, 24.5) cm

14 (14¼, 14½, 14¾) (15, 15¼, 15½, 16)"

35.5 (36, 36.5, 37.5) (38, 38.5, 39, 40.5) cm
44¾ (47½, 50½, 53¼) (57, 59¾, 64¾, 67¾)"
113.5 (121, 128, 135.5) (144.5, 152, 164.5, 172) cm

34¼ (37¼, 40, 43) (46½, 49½, 52¼, 55)"

87 (94.5, 102, 109) (118, 125.5, 132.5, 140) cm

Back armhole shaping Front right shoulder

With Crochet Cast-On, CO 1 st at the start of the next 4 (4, 6, 6) (6, 6, Undo Provisional Cast-On at right shoulder and place all 11 (12, 13, 13)
6, 6) rows, then 2 sts at the start of the next 4 (6, 4, 6) (10, 12, 16, 16) (13, 14, 14, 15) sts on larger needle. Place a removable stitch marker
rows, then - (-, 3, 5) (4, 5, 4, 6) sts at the start of the next - (-, 2, 2) (2, through last stitch to mark start of neck.
2, 2, 2) rows. 80 (86, 94, 102) (110, 118, 126, 132) sts. Break yarn and Row 1 (RS): K to end.
place all sts on waste yarn.
Short Row 1 (WS): P4, TW.
Front left shoulder
Short Row 2 (RS): DS, K to end.
Undo Provisional Cast-On at left shoulder and place all 11 (12, 13, 13)
Short Row 3: P to 4 sts after previous DS, TW.
(13, 14, 14, 15) sts on larger needle. Place a removable stitch marker
Short Row 4: DS, K to end.
through first stitch to mark start of neck.
Repeat last 2 short rows - (-, -, -) (-, 1, 1, 1) more time.
Row 1 (RS): K to end.
Next Row (WS): P to end.
Row 2 (WS): P to end.
Short Row 1 (RS): K4, TW.
Decrease Row (RS): K1, SSK, K to end. 1 st decreased.
Short Row 2 (WS): DS, P to end.
Repeat Decrease Row every 4 rows 2 more times. 3 sts decreased, 8 (9,
Short Row 3: K to 4 sts after previous DS, TW.
10, 10) (10, 11, 11, 12) sts.
Short Row 4: DS, P to end.
Work even until piece measures 2 (2¼, 2½, 2¾) (2¾, 2¾, 3, 3¼)" / 5
Repeat last 2 short rows - (-, -, -) (-, 1, 1, 1) more time.
(5.5, 6.5, 7) (7, 7, 7.5, 8) cm from markers at start of neck, ending with a
RS row.
Decrease Row (RS): K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 1 st decreased.
Repeat Decrease Row every 4 rows 2 more times. 3 sts decreased, 8 (9, Front right neck
10, 10) (10, 11, 11, 12) sts.
With Crochet Cast-On, CO 1 st at the start of the next 3 WS rows, then
Work even until piece measures 2 (2¼, 2½, 2¾) (2¾, 2¾, 3, 3¼)" / 5 2 sts at the start of the next 3 WS rows, then 3 sts at the start of the
(5.5, 6.5, 7) (7, 7, 7.5, 8) cm from markers at start of neck, ending with a next 2 WS rows. 23 (24, 25, 25) (25, 26, 26, 27) sts.
WS row.

Joining front
Front left neck
Next Row (RS): K to end, TW so WS is facing, with Crochet Cast-
With Crochet Cast-On, CO 1 st at the start of the next 3 RS rows, then On CO 16 (16, 18, 18) (20, 20, 22, 22) sts, TW so RS is facing again,
2 sts at the start of the next 3 RS rows, then 3 sts at the start of the transfer left shoulder sts from waste yarn onto needle and K to end. 62
next 2 RS rows. 23 (24, 25, 25) (25, 26, 26, 27) sts. (64, 68, 68) (70, 72, 74, 76) sts.
Next Row (WS): P to end. Work even until piece measures 5½ (5¾, 5¾, 5¾) (5¾, 5¾, 5¾, 6)" /
Break yarn and place all sts on waste yarn. 14 (14.5, 14.5, 14.5) (14.5, 14.5, 14.5, 15) cm from markers at start of
armhole, ending with a WS row.

109
Front armhole shaping Short row shaping
With Crochet Cast-On, CO 1 st at the start of the next 10 (10, 12, 12) Short Row 1 (RS): K to 4 sts before M, TW.
(12, 12, 12, 12) rows, then 2 sts at the start of the next 4 (6, 4, 6) (10, Short Row 2 (WS): DS, *P to M, SM; repeat from * 3 times, P to 4 sts
12, 16, 16) rows, then - (-, 3, 5) (4, 5, 4, 6) sts at the start of the next - (-, before M, TW.
2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) rows. 80 (86, 94, 102) (110, 118, 126, 132) sts. **
Short Row 3: DS, K to 5 (5, 6, 7) (8, 9, 10, 11) sts before previous DS,
TW.
Joining body Short Row 4: DS, P to 5 (5, 6, 7) (8, 9, 10, 11) sts before previous DS,
Next row (RS): K to end, TW so WS is facing, with Crochet Cast-On TW.
CO 4 (5, 5, 5) (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, PM, CO 2 (3, 3, 3) (4, 4, 4, 5), TW so RS is Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 once more.
facing again, transfer back sts from waste yarn onto needle, K to end,
Short Row 7: DS, K to 7 (7, 8, 9) (10, 11, 12, 13) sts before previous DS,
using the same technique as earlier CO 4 (5, 5, 5) (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, place
TW.
BOR M, CO 2 (3, 3, 3) (4, 4, 4, 5) sts, join in the round. 172 (188, 204,
Short Row 8: DS, P to 7 (7, 8, 9) (10, 11, 12, 13) sts before previous DS,
220) (240, 256, 272, 288) sts.
TW.
Next Rnd: K to end.
Repeat Short Rows 7 and 8 three more times.
Work even until piece measures 3½" / 9 cm from armhole cast-on.
Short Row 15: DS, K to 5 (5, 6, 7) (8, 9, 10, 11) sts after the 7th DS, TW.
Short Row 16: DS, P to 5 (5, 6, 7) (8, 9, 10, 11) sts after the 7th DS, TW.
A-line shaping
Next Rnd: DS, K to end.
Increase Rnd: *K4, M1R, K to 4 sts before M, M1L, K4, SM; repeat from
* once more. 4 sts increased.
Hem
Repeat Increase Rnd every 15 (15, 16, 16) (16, 17, 17, 18) rounds 3 (1,
4, 2) (-, 3, 1, 2) more times, then every 16 (16, 0, 17) (17, 18, 18, 19) Switching to smaller needle, work in garter stitch for 5 rounds. BO all
rounds 1 (3, 0, 2) (4, 1, 3, 2) times. 20 sts increased, 192 (208, 224, 240) sts using Stretchy Bind-Off.
(260, 276, 292, 308) sts.
Work even until piece measures 12¾ (13, 13¼, 13½) (13¾, 14, 14¼, Neckband
14¾)" / 32.5 (33, 34, 34.5) (35, 35.5, 36.5, 37.5) cm from armhole cast- Place Base top inside Overlay top and temporarily hold the two
on. tops together at the neck opening using removable stitch markers,
maintaining markers previously placed at shoulders. Stitches for
Hem Neckband will be picked up from both layers at the same time. You
may find it easier to use a crochet hook to pick up each stitch before
Switching to smaller needle, work in garter stitch for 5 rounds. BO all
transfering it to the circular needle.
sts using Stretchy Bind-Off.
With shortest circular needle and starting at right shoulder, pick up and
K54 (54, 56, 56) (58, 60, 62, 62) sts along back neck to left shoulder,
Overlay top
then pick up and K74 (78, 82, 84) (86, 90, 94, 96) sts along front neck
Work as Base top from * to **. to right shoulder, place BORM, join in the round. Total 128 (132, 138,
Next row (RS): K to end, TW so WS is facing, with Crochet Cast-On CO 140) (144, 150, 156, 158) sts.
6 (8, 8, 8) (10, 10, 10, 12) sts, TW so RS is facing again, place back sts Work in garter stitch for 5 rounds. BO all sts using Stretchy Bind-Off.
into needle, K to end, using the same technique as earlier CO 4 (5, 5,
5) (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, place BOR M, CO 2 (3, 3, 3) (4, 4, 4, 5) sts, join in the
Armhole edgings
round. 172 (188, 204, 220) (240, 256, 272, 288) sts.
Place a removable stitch marker at the exact center of underarm
K 2 rounds.
and attach tops together at armhole openings as for neck opening,
Next Rnd: K17 (20, 23, 26) (30, 33, 37, 40), PM, [K26 (27, 28, 29) (30,
maintaining previously placed markers at shoulders.
31, 31, 32), PM] twice, K34 (40, 46, 52) (60, 66, 74, 80), PM, [K26 (27,
28, 29) (30, 31, 31, 32), PM] twice, K to end. 7 M placed (including
BORM). Left armhole edging
With shortest circular needle and starting at underarm, pick up and K44
(48, 51, 55) (58, 61, 64, 68) sts along front armhole to shoulder, then
Increase Rnd: *K to 2 sts before M, M1L, K2, SM, K2, M1R; repeat from
pick up and K40 (44, 47, 51) (54, 57, 60, 64) sts along back armhole to
* 5 more times, K to end. 12 sts increased.
underarm, place BORM, join in the round. Total 84 (92, 98, 106) (112,
Repeat Increase Rnd every 8 rounds 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 5, 6, 6) more times.
118, 124, 132) sts.
72 (72, 72, 72) (72, 72, 84, 84) sts increased, total 244 (260, 276, 292)
Work in garter stitch for 5 rounds. BO all sts using Stretchy Bind-Off.
(312, 328, 356, 372) sts.
Begin short row shaping 1 (1, 3, 5) (7, 7, 3, 3) rounds after the 6 (6, 6, 6)
(6, 6, 7, 7)th increase round as follows. During the short row shaping, Right armhole edging
work 1 more set of increases at the established rate. As this final set of With shortest circular needle and starting at underarm, pick up and K40
increases will be worked during the short rows which exclude the sts (44, 47, 51) (54, 57, 60, 64) sts along back armhole to shoulder, then
at front of garment, the increases will only be made at the markers at pick up and K44 (48, 51, 55) (58, 61, 64, 68) sts along front armhole to
the back of the garment. 6 sts increased, total 250 (266, 282, 298) (318, underarm, place BORM, join in the round. Total 84 (92, 98, 106) (112,
334, 362, 378) sts. 118, 124, 132) sts.
Work in garter stitch for 5 rounds. BO all sts using Stretchy Bind-Off.

Finishing
Weave in ends and block top to measurements.

110
Lady Slipper by Fiona Alice

8 (9¼, 10¼)”
20.5 (23.5, 26) cm
25 (28, 31)” / 63.5 (71, 79) cm

16 (18, 20)”
40.5 (46, 51) cm
cm
.5
40
”/
16

Specifications Notes
The front and back of this wrap top are knit flat and then seamed
Yarn
together at the shoulders. The two sets of ties are then wrapped
Fingering weight yarn
around the body to close the side seams. The front ties are created by
Approximately 722 (940, 1224) yards, 660 (860, 1120) m an I-Cord, which are first wrapped and tied at the back of the wearer.
2 (3, 3) skeins of Parade (60% Wool, 20% Cotton, 10% Silk, 10% Linen The back tie is one long piece of fabric. This tie, is then brought to the
; 420yards / 384m, 100g) front of the wearer and tied in a knot or bow to finish closing the side
Sample is shown in Jaipur seams. The finished top is a rectangle when laid flat, blocking wires
and t-pins help when blocking it keep the shape an even rectangle.
Needles Sewing instructions are provided to make one’s own ribbon if desired.
A US 2½ (3 mm) 40" / 100 cm (or longer) circular needle
Stitch Guide
A set of US 5 (3.75 mm) double pointed needles (DPNs)
I-Cord:
Or, needles required to obtain gauge
With DPN and main yarn, CO 3 sts. * K3, do not turn work. Instead,
Gauge (after blocking) slide sts to the other end of the needle; repeat from * until the cord
24 stitches & 37 rows = 4” / 10cm in St st with US 2½ (3 mm) needle becomes a desired length.
24 rows = 4” / 10cm in I-Cord with US 5 (3.75 mm) needle I-Cord Bind-Off:
Place I-Cord onto LH needle. *K2, SSK, slip 3 sts back to LH needle;
Sizes
repeat from * until all sts from Front have been bound off.
Finished chest measurements: S (M, L) = 32 - 36 (38 - 42, 44 - 48)"/
Garter Stitch bind off:
81.5 - 91.5 (96.5 - 106.5, 112 - 122) cm
Row 1 (RS): K2, Sl1tbl as if to K1tbl, Sl1 as if to K, knit the last 2 sts
The sample was knit in size S with 7¾" / 20 cm positive ease.
together through the back, TW.
Tools Row 2 (WS): Wyf, Sl1tbl as if to P1tbl, wyb, K2, TW.
Stitch markers (2), tapestry needle, crochet hook, waste yarn or stitch
holders, 3 yards of 2.5"/ 6 cm wide ribbon, blocking wires & t-pins
(optional)

Skill Level
●●

111
Instructions Back

Body With waste yarn and Provisional Cast-On method, CO 150 (168, 186)
sts on to longer circular needle. Change to main yarn.
Front
Set-up Row (RS): K2, K1tbl, K2, PM, K140 (158, 176), PM, K2, K1tbl,
With waste yarn and Provisional Cast-On method, CO 150 (168, 186)
K2.
sts on to longer circular needle. Change to main yarn.
Next Row (WS): K2, P1tbl, K2, SM, P to M, SM, K2, P1tbl, K2.
Set-up Row (RS): K2, K1tbl, K2, PM, K140 (158, 176), PM, K2, K1tbl,
K2. Row 1 (RS): K2, K1tbl, K2, SM, K to M, SM, K2, K1tbl, K2.

Next Row (WS): K2, P1tbl, K2, SM, P to M, SM, K2, P1tbl, K2. Row 2 (WS) : K2, P1tbl, K2, SM, P to M, SM, K2, P1tbl, K2.

Row 1 (RS): K2, K1tbl, K2, SM, K to M, SM, K2, K1tbl, K2. Repeat previous 2 rounds until piece measures, 2½"/ 6.5 cm, from CO,
ending with RS row.
Row 2 (WS) : K2, P1tbl, K2, SM, P to M, SM, K2, P1tbl, K2.
Lace Set Up Row (WS): K2, P1tbl, K2, SM, K2tog 0 (1, 0) times, K to 0 (2,
Repeat previous 2 rows until piece measures, 12¼ (13¾, 15¼)"/ 31 (35,
0) sts before M, SSK 0 (1, 0) times, SM, K2, P1tbl, K2. 150 (166, 186)
39) cm, from CO.
sts total

Right Shoulder
Lace // Sizes S & M
Set-up Row (RS): Work in pattern across 64 (72, 80) sts, BO 22 (24, 26)
Row 1 (RS): K2, K1tbl, K2, SM, *YO, P2tog, SSP, YO, K4; repeat from *
sts, work in pattern to end.
to last 4 sts before M, YO, P2tog, SSP, YO, SM, K2, K1tbl, K2.
Row 1 (WS): Work in pattern to end.
Row 2 (WS): K2, P1tbl, K2, SM, P to M, SM, K2, P1tbl, K2.
Row 2: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 2 sts decreased.
Row 3: K2, K1tbl, K2, SM, *K4, YO, P2tog, SSP, YO, repeat from * to
Repeat Rows 1 & 2, 3 more times. 56 (64, 72) sts.
last 4 sts before M, K4, SM, K2, K1tbl, K2.
Row 3: Work in pattern to end.
Row 4: Same as Row 2.
Row 4: K1, SSK, work in pattern to end. 1 st decreased.
Repeat Rows 1 - 4 until Lace measures 2¼" / 6 cm, ending with RS
Repeat Rows 3 & 4, 3 (4, 5) more times. 52 (59, 66) sts. row.
Row 5, 6 & 7: Work in pattern to end. For S Size only: Next Row (WS): K2, P1tbl, K2, SM, P to M, SM, K2,
Row 8: K1, SSK, work in pattern to end. 1 st decreased. P1tbl, K2. 150 sts.
Repeat Rows 5 - 8, 3 more times. 48 (55, 62) sts. For M Size only: Next Row (WS): K2, P1tbl, K2, SM, P1, M1PR, P to
Continue to work in pattern until Right Shoulder measures 16 (18, 20)"/ last st before M, M1PL, P1, SM, K2, P1tbl, K2. 168 sts.
40.5 (46, 51) cm from CO edge, ending with a WS row. Break yarn,
leaving a tail to weave in later. Place Right Shoulder on waste yarn or a Lace // Size L
stitch holder.
Row 1 (RS): K2, K1tbl, K2, SM, *YO, P2tog, SSP, YO, K4; repeat from *
to M, SM, K2, K1tbl, K2.
Left Shoulder Row 2 (WS): K2, P1tbl, K2, SM, P to M, SM, K2, P1tbl, K2.
Set Up: With WS facing, using circular needle, rejoin yarn to work Left Row 3: K2, K1tbl, K2, SM, *K4, YO, P2tog, SSP, YO; repeat from * to M,
Shoulder. SM, K2, K1tbl, K2.
Row 1 (WS): BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 2 sts decreased. Row 4: Same as Row 2.
Row 2 (RS): Work in pattern to end. Repeat Rows 1 - 4 until Lace measures 2½"/ 6.5 cm, ending with WS
Repeat Rows 1 & 2, 3 more times. 56 (64, 72) sts. row.
Row 3: P1, P2tog, work in pattern to end. 1 st decreased.
Row 4: Work in pattern to end. All Sizes
Repeat Rows 3 & 4, 3 (4, 5) more times. 52 (59, 66) sts. Remove Provisional Cast-On and place live stitches on spare needle.
Row 5, 6 & 8: Work in pattern to end. Fold hem in half, wrong sides should be together. Holding the two
needles parallel to each other (the working needle is in front and the
Row 7: P1, P2tog, work in pattern to end. 1 st decreased.
spare needle is in back), knit into the first st on each needle, knit
Repeat Rows 5 - 8, 3 more times. 48 (55, 62) sts.
together and remove both stitches off of RH needles. Continue to work
Continue to work in pattern until Left Shoulder measures 16 (18, 20)"/ across the row but remember to K1tbl of the third st and third last st.
40.5 (46, 51) cm from CO edge, ending with a WS row. Break yarn,
Row 1 (WS): K2, P1tbl, K2, SM, P to M, SM, K2, P1tbl, K2.
leaving a tail to weave in later. Place Left Shoulder on waste yarn or a
Row 2 (RS): K2, K1tbl, K2, SM, K to M, SM, K2, K1tbl, K2.
stitch holder.
Repeat previous 2 rows until piece measures, 14½ (16½, 18½)"/ 37 (42,
47) cm, from bottom edge, ending with a WS row.
Front Ties
Remove Provisional CO and place live sts on to long circular needle,
Left Shoulder
set aside.
Set Up Row (RS): Work in pattern across 60 (67, 74) sts, BO 30 (34, 38)
With two DPNs, CO 3 sts and work I-Cord until it measures 16"/ 40.5
sts, work in pattern to end.
cm. This will be the Right Side I-Cord.
Row 1 (WS): Work in pattern to end.
An I-Cord Bind-Off will now be worked across the bottom of the Front.
The Front will be upside down as the bind off is worked. With Front RS Row 2: BO 4 sts, work in pattern to end. 4 sts decreased.
facing, place I-Cord onto LH needle. Use one DPN and work I-Cord Row 3: Work in pattern to end.
Bind-Off until all Front sts are worked. Return to two DPNS, and work Row 4: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 2 sts decreased.
until Left Side I-Cord measures, 16"/ 40.5 cm, BO.
Repeat Rows 3 & 4, 2 more times. 50 (57, 64) sts.
Row 5: Work in pattern to end.
Row 6: K1, SSK, work in pattern to end. 1 st decreased.

112
Repeat Rows 5 & 6, 1 more times. 48 (55, 62) sts. 12 sts between back BO and left shoulder. Break yarn and weave in
Continue to work in pattern until Left Shoulder measures 16 (18, 20)"/ both ends. 118 (124, 130) sts total
40.5 (46, 51) cm from bottom edge, ending with a WS row. Keep Left Rejoin yarn and CO 3 sts onto LH needle, work Garter St BO until all
Shoulder on circular needle. Break yarn, leaving a very long tail to work 118 (124, 130) sts finished, BO. Break yarn, leaving a tail to sew CO
Three Needle Bind-Off later. edge and BO edge together.

Right Shoulder Finishing

Set Up: With WS facing, using the same circular needle, rejoin yarn to Weave in end and block to measurements. Blocking wires and t-pins
work Right Shoulder. are recommended to help keep the edges straight. Once dry, thread a
Row 1 (WS): BO 4 sts, work in pattern to end. 4 sts decreased. 2.5"/ 6.5 cm ribbon through the back hem or follow instructions to sew
your own ribbon.
Row 2 (RS): Work in pattern to end.
Row 3: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 2 sts decreased.
Ribbon Instructions
Row 4: Work in pattern to end.
Equipment requirements: sewing machine, appropriate sewing needle,
Repeat Rows 3 & 4, 2 more times. 50 (57, 64) sts.
iron, ruler, scissors, pins, matching sewing thread.
Row 5: P1, P2tog, work in pattern to end. 1 st decreased.
Fabric requirements: ½ yards / 0.45 m of 45"/ 114 cm wide fabric.
Row 6: Work in pattern to end.
Notes: All seam allowances are ⅜"/ 1 cm. Any lightweight woven fabric
Repeat Rows 5 & 6, 1 more times. 48 (55, 62) sts.
can be used. If using fabric that isn’t 45"wide, cut three length of fabric
Continue to work in pattern until Right Shoulder measures 16 (18, 20)"/ instead. When seaming pieces together, place the two seams in the
40.5 (46, 51) cm from bottom edge, ending with a WS row. Keep Right back where they can be hidden when pulled through the back hem.
Shoulder on circular needle. Do not break yarn.
1. Wash and iron fabric before starting. Cut two strips lengthwise, that
measure 5.6"/ 14.25 cm wide.
Seaming Shoulders 2. Lay the two pieces on top of one another, with right sides together.
Remove waste yarn or stitch holders from Front Shoulders and place Pin one of the short ends and sew together using a straight stitch, this
live stitches onto spare circular needle. Lay Back down with RS facing will be the center back seam. Trim seam allowance if needed and then
up. Next, lay Front down on top of Back with WS, both RS will be press the seam allowances open.
together. 3. Fold tie in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin and sew long side
Using Three Needle Bind-Off, work across Right Shoulder (right to left) together using a straight stitch. Trim seam allowance if needed. Turn
to seam Front and Back together. Then, using the same method, work piece, right side out. Press gently.
across Left shoulder (right to left). 4. Thread ribbon through back hem, adjust length and then trim ends
on a 45 degree angle. To prevent ribbon from twisting in the back, tack
Neck ribbon down to the garter stitch of the hem with a sewing needle and
tread.
With long circular needle, start at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit
21 (22, 23) sts between left shoulder and front BO, 22 (24, 26) sts from
front BO, 21 (22, 23) sts between front BO and right shoulder, 12 sts
between right shoulder and back BO, 30 (32, 34) sts from back BO and

113
Summer in Norway by Biches & Bûches

Specifications Beginning of rnd is at center back.

K3 (3, 4, 7, 7, 7) rnds.
Yarn
Increase Rnd 1: *K4 (4, 4, 4, 3, 3) sts, M1; repeat from * to end. 180 (195,
Fingering weight yarn
210, 220, 236, 252) sts.
(MC) Approximately 1080 (1350, 1620, 1890, 1890, 2160) yards / 992
Next Rnd: Knit, increasing 2 (1, 0, 4, 2, 0) sts evenly around. 182 (196,
(1240, 1488, 1736, 1736, 1984) m
210, 224, 238, 252) sts.
(CC) Approximately 270 (540, 540, 810, 810, 810) yards / 248 (496, 496,
K2 (2, 4, 4, 4, 6) rnds.
744, 744, 744) m
Work Chart A once.
Biches & Bûches yarn Le Petit Lambswool (100 % lambswool; 270
yards / 248 m, 50g) K3 (3, 5, 5, 5, 7) rnds.

Sample is shown in MC Light Grey 4 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) skeins and CC Off- Increase Rnd 2:
White 1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) skeins Size XS: *K4, M1, K3, M1; repeat from * to end. 234 sts.
Size S: K4, *M1, K3; repeat from * end. 260 sts.
Needles
Size M: *K3, M1; repeat from * to end. 280 sts.
A US 3 (3.25 mm) 24"/ 60 cm (or longer) circular needle
Size L: K1, *K2, M1, K3, M1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, K3. 312 sts.
A set of US 3 (3.25 mm) double pointed needles (DPNs)
Size XL: K1, *K2, M1, K3, M1; repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2. 332 sts.
Or, needles required to obtain gauge
Size XXL: K1, *K2, M1, K3, M1, repeat from * to last st, K1. 352 sts.
Gauge (after blocking) Next Rnd: Knit, increasing 0 (0, 6, 0, 6, 12) sts evenly around. 234 (260,
24 stitches & 34 rounds = 4"/ 10 cm in St st 286, 312, 338, 364) sts.
25 stitches & 31 rounds = 4"/ 10 cm in color work pattern K2 (2, 4, 4, 4, 6) rnds.

Sizes Next Rnd: Work Chart B once.

Finished chest measurements: XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) = 37½ (41½, 45½, K3 (3, 5, 5, 5, 7) rnds.
49½, 53½, 57½)"/ 95 (105, 115, 125, 135, 146) cm Increase Rnd 3: [K4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5), M1] 6 (25, 17, 9, 1, 28) times, [K3 (5,
The sample was knit in size S with 8¾" / 22 cm positive ease. 5, 5, 5, 6), M1] 62 (12, 30, 48, 66, 14) times, [K4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5), M1] 6 (25,
17, 9, 1, 28) times. 308 (322, 350, 378, 406, 434) sts.
Tools
K3 (3, 5, 5, 5, 7) rnds.
Stitch marker (1), tapestry needle, waste yarn
Next Rnd: Work Chart A once.
Skill Level K3 (3, 5, 5, 5, 7) rnds.
●●●
Increase Rnd 4:
Notes Size XS: *K7, M1; repeat from * to end. 352 sts.
The sweater is knit seamlessly in the round from the top down in St st Size S: [K9, M1] 9 times, [K8, M1] 20 times, [K9, M1] 9 times. 360 sts.
with the yoke featuring a stranded color work pattern (Chart A+B). The Size M: [K7, M1] 13 times, [K6, M1] 28 times, [K7, M1] 13 times. 404
sleeves are worked in the main color until the cuffs that are worked first sts.
with another small color work pattern (Chart C) and then with a 4 stitch
Size L: *K9, M1; repeat from * to end. 420 sts.
cable stitch pattern.
Size XL: K3, *K8, M1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, K3. 456 sts.
The sleeves can be knitted using the magic loop method or using
DPNs. Size XXL: K1, *K8, M1; repeat from * to last st, K1. 488 sts.
K3 (3, 4, 7, 7, 7) rnds or until desired length to underarm.

Stitch Guide Divide for Sleeves:

C4F - Cable 4 Front: Place 2 sts onto a cable needle, hold at front of K48 (50, 58, 62, 68, 74) sts, place next 80 (80, 86, 86, 92, 96) sleeve sts
work, K2, then K2 from the cable needle. on waste yarn, with Backward Loop Cast-On, CO 8 (12, 10, 12, 12, 12)
sts, PM for new BOR, CO 8 (12, 10, 12, 12, 12) sts, K96 (100, 116, 124,
Right lifted increase (RLI): Knit into the back of the stitch in the row
136, 148) sts for Front, place next 80 (80, 86, 86, 92, 96) sleeve sts on
directly below the stitch on the left needle.
waste yarn, CO 8 (12, 10, 12, 12, 12) sts, PM, CO 8 (12, 10, 12, 12, 12)
Elastic Bind Off method: Knit the first stitch and place it back on the sts, K across back to new BORM (removing center back marker as you
left needle. K2tog through back loop. Place the new stitch back on the pass it).
left needle and continue until all stitches have been cast off.
224 (248, 272, 296, 320, 344) sts.

Instructions Body
Yoke Continue in the round with MC.
Note: When floats on WS run over more than 5 stitches, tuck them to Knit 30 rnds.
make the back of work neat and tidy. Be sure not to pull the floats too Increase Rnd: K1, M1, work to 1 st before M, M1, K1, SM, K1, M1,
tight. work to 1 st before M, M1, K1. 4 sts increased.
With the Long-Tail Cast-On method and MC yarn, CO 144 (156, 168, Knit 12 rnds.
176, 177, 189) sts and K1 row on WS. Repeat last 13 rnds 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) more times. 248 (272, 300, 324,
PM and join for working in the round being careful not to twist. 352, 376) sts.

114
 24 (26, 28, 29½, 29½, 31½)”
61 (66, 71, 75, 75, 80) cm

7 (7, 8½, 9¼, 9¼, 10¾)”

16 (17½, 17¾, 18½, 19½, 20)” 18 (18, 22, 23, 23, 27) cm
41 (44, 45, 47, 49, 51) cm

9 (9, 10, 10, 11, 11)” 37½ (41½, 45½, 49½, 53½, 57½)”
23, 23, (25, 25, 28, 28) cm 95 (105, 115, 125, 135, 146) cm
14 (14½, 14½, 15, 15, 15)”
36 (37, 37, 38, 38, 38) cm

41½ (45½, 50, 54, 58½, 62½)”

105 (115, 127, 137, 149, 159) cm

Work even until body measures 14 (14, 15, 15, 16, 16)" / 36 (36, 38, 38, Chart A
40, 40) cm from underarm.
MC
CC
Hem
(P1 rnd, K1 rnd) 3 times.
BO all sts using the Elastic BO method.

Sleeves
Place 80 (80, 86, 86, 92, 96) sleeve sts onto needle. With MC at
underarm, pick up and knit 8 (12, 10, 12, 12, 12) sts, PM, pick up and Chart B
knit 8 (12, 10, 12, 12, 12) sts and continue in the rnd. 96 (104, 106, 110,
116, 120) sts.
Knit 2 rnds.
Decrease Rnd: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 2 sts decreased.
Knit 6 rnds.
Repeat last 7 rounds 9 (10, 10, 11, 11, 11) more times. 76 (82, 84, 86,
92, 96) sts.
Sleeve Decrease Rnd: [K17 (6, 19, 12, 21, 10), K2tog] 4 (10, 4, 6, 4, 8)
times to end. 72 (72, 80, 80, 88, 88) sts.
Knit 1 rnd.
Next rnd: Work Chart C once.

Cuff
Change to CC:
Knit 4 rnds.
Next Rnd: K2, *C4F, K4 and repeat from * to 6 sts before end, C4F, K2.
Chart C
Rep last 5 rnds 7 more times (8 repeats total).
Knit 2 rnds.
Next Rnd: K2, *C4F, K4 and repeat from * to 6 sts before end, C4F, K2.
Rep last 3 rnds 3 more times (4 repeats total).
Knit 2 rnds.
BO all sts purlwise.

Neckline
Using MC, pick up and knit all sts at the neckline. BO all sts purlwise.

Finishing
Weave in ends and block to measurements.

115
 Yunagi by Holli Yeoh

8½” 18¾ (18¾, 19, 20½, 21¼, 22¼)”

1”/ 2.5 cm 21.5 cm 47.5 (47.5, 48.5, 52, 54, 56.5) cm
7¾ (8¼ , 8¼, 9, 10, 10¾)"
20 (21, 21, 23, 25.5, 27.5) cm

18¾ (19¼, 19¼, 20, 21, 21¾)"

48 (49, 49, 51, 53.5, 55.5) cm

16½ (16¾, 17¼, 18, 17¼, 17)”

42 (42.5, 44, 45.5, 44, 43) cm

19¼ (20¾, 21½, 23¼, 26, 28)”

49 (52.5, 54.5, 59, 66, 71) cm

Specifications Tools
US D-3 (3.25 mm) crochet hook (for Crochet Cast-On), Stitch markers
Yarn
(4), tapestry needle
Fingering weight yarn
Approximately 1700 (1740, 1815, 2030, 2210, 2365) yards / 1555 (1590, Skill Level
1660, 1860, 2020, 2165) m ●●●
Quince & Co. Sparrow (100% organic linen; 168 yards / 155 m; 50g)
Notes
Sample is shown in Mica 254, 11 (11, 11, 13, 14, 15) skeins The pullover is worked in one piece from the front hem, up and over
the shoulders, and down the back to the back hem. Sleeve stitches
Needles
are cast on at the end of two rows and later, bound off at the beginning
A US 2 (2.75 mm) 32"/ 80 cm (or longer) circular needle
of two rows. Sleeve and neckline shaping is achieved through short
A US 3 (3.25 mm) 32"/ 80 cm (or longer) circular needle rows. The lower body is worked in Stockinette stitch. The sleeves and
A US 4 (3.5 mm) 32"/ 80 cm (or longer) circular needle upper body are worked in a textured stitch with lace stripes worked
Or, needles required to obtain gauge across the front chest and sleeves. When it’s completed, throw it in the
washing machine and dryer to soften up the linen. The more times it’s
Gauge washed, the more comfortable it is to wear.
25 stitches & 32 rows = 4"/ 10 cm in St st with US 3 (3.25 mm) needle,
All length measurements in the pattern are based on the unblocked
after machine washing and drying
gauge. Schematic measurements are blocked measurements, therefore
23 stitches & 36 rows = 4" / 10 cm in St st with US 3 (3.25 mm) needle, the length measurements in the schematic will be different than those
before machine washing and drying noted in the instructions.
18 stitches & 36 rows = 4"/ 10 cm in Roman Texture pattern with US 3
(3.25 mm) needle, after machine washing and drying Stitch Guide
Roman Texture Pattern
15 stitches & 48 rows = 4"/ 10 cm in Roman Texture pattern with US 3
(3.25 mm) needle, be-fore machine washing and drying (worked over an even number of sts; st count increases dramatically on
Row 1, ending with an odd number of sts, and decreases back to the
The gauge changes after machine washing and drying. Take note
original st count on Row 3)
of your gauge before and after washing and make adjustments, if
necessary. Row 1 (RS): K2, *YO, K1; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Row 2 (WS): P.
Sizes
Row 3: K2, *K2tog; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Finished chest measurements: XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) = 37¾ (40¾, 42¼,
Row 4: P1, knit to last st, P1.
46, 51½, 55¼)" / 96 (103.5, 107.5, 117, 131, 140.5) cm
The sample was knit in size S with 8" / 20 cm positive ease.

116
Roman Stripe Pattern Gusset
(worked over an even number of sts; st count increases dramatically on The st count decreases dramatically on Gusset Rows 1 & 5 (ending
Rows 1 & 8, ending with an odd number of sts, and decreases back to with an even number st count) and increases on Gusset Row 3 (ending
the original st count on Rows 3 & 10) with an odd number st count).
Row 1 (RS): K2, *YO, K1; repeat from * to last st, K1. Gusset Row 1 (RS): K1, M1, K1, *K2tog; repeat from * to last st, M1,
Row 2 (WS): P. K1.

Row 3: K2, *K2tog; repeat from * to last st, K1. Gusset Row 2 (WS): P1, K to last st, P1.

Row 4: P1, K1, *YO, K2tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Gusset Row 3: K1, M1, K1, *YO, K1; repeat from * to last st, M1, K1.

Row 5: K2, *YO, K2tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2. Gusset Row 4: P.

Row 6: P1, K to last st, P1. Gusset Row 5: K1, M1, K2, *K2tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, K1, M1,
K1.
Row 7: K.
Gusset Row 6: P1, K to last st, P1.
Row 8: P1, K1, *YO, K1; repeat from * to last st, P1.
Repeat Gusset Rows 3 to 6 three times more, then work Gusset Rows
Row 9: P1, K to last st, P1.
3 & 4 once more. Total 20 gusset rows have been worked and there are
Row 10: P1, K1, *K2tog; repeat from * to last st, P1.
223 (239, 247, 267, 291, 311) sts on the needle.
Row 11: K2, *YO, K2tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2.
Row 12: P1, K1, *YO, K2tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1.
Front Sleeves
Row 13: K.
Note: When encountering wrapped stitches, work the wraps together
Row 14: P1, K to last st, P1. with the wrapped stitches.
Set-up Row 1 (RS): K3, *K2tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2, PM, with
Knitted Cast-On method, CO 46 (42, 42, 43, 41, 40) sts. 160 (164, 168,
Instructions 179, 189, 198) sts on needle.
When joining a new ball of linen yarn, hold the end of the old ball
Set-up Row 2 (WS): P to M, K to end of row, PM, CO 46 (42, 42, 43, 41,
together with the beginning of the new ball and work 5 to 8 sts with
40) sts. 206 (206, 210, 222, 230, 238) sts on needle.
both strands. Drop the old ball end and continue on with new ball.
Short Row 1: K to first M, SM, K1, *YO, K1; repeat from * to last M, RM,
Leave tails approximately 6"/ 15 cm long to hang on the wrong side.
(YO, K1) 2 times; W&T, PM.
They don’t need to be woven in. They may be trimmed to 2 to 3"/ 5 to
7.5 cm after washing. Short Row 2: P to M, SM, P2; W&T, PM.
Short Row 3: K to M, RM, K1, *K2tog; repeat from * to last M, RM, K2;
W&T, PM.
Back Neck Edging
Short Row 4: K to M, RM, K2; W&T, PM.
Using Crochet Cast-On method and US 2 (2.75 mm) needle, CO 58 sts.
Short Row 5: K1, *YO, K1; repeat from * to M, RM, (YO, K1) 2 times;
Knit 5 rows.
W&T, PM.
Decrease Row: K7, K2tog, (K3, K2tog) 8 times, K2, K2tog, K5. 48 sts
Short Row 6: P to M, SM, P2; W&T, PM.
on needle.
Note that you're working 2 sts beyond the previous short row M on
Break yarn. Transfer to stitch holder and set aside.
each row.
Short Rows 7 - 20: Repeat Short Rows 3 - 6 three more times, then
Front
Short Rows 3 - 4 one more time.
With Crochet Cast-On method and US 2 (2.75 mm) needle, CO 120
Short Row 21: K1, *YO, K1; repeat from * to M, RM, (YO, K1) 4 times;
(129, 134, 146, 163, 175) sts.
W&T, PM.
Work 6 rows in garter st (K every row), ending with a WS row.
Short Row 22: P to M, SM, P4; W&T, PM.
Change to US 3 (3.25 mm) needle.
Short Row 23: K to M, RM, K1, *K2tog; repeat from * to last M, RM, K4;
Beginning with a knit row, work in St st until piece measures 14¼ (14½, W&T, PM.
15, 15½, 15, 14¾)" / 36 (37, 38, 39.5, 38, 37.5) cm from CO edge,
Short Row 24: K to M, RM, K4; W&T, PM.
ending with a RS row.
Repeat Short Rows 21 - 23 once more.
Decrease Row (WS): P1, K1, K2tog, (K2, K2tog) 4 (2, 2, 1, 5, 4) time(s),
Short Row 28: K to end, picking up wraps
(K3, K2tog) 15 (20, 21, 25, 22, 26) times, (K2, K2tog) 6 (4, 4, 3, 7, 6)
times, P1. 94 (102, 106, 116, 128, 138) sts on needle. Total 28 short rows have been worked and 10 (6, 6, 7, 5, 4) sts remain
unworked.
Work Rows 1 & 2 of Roman Texture Pattern. 185 (201, 209, 229, 253,
273) sts on needle. Arm shaping is completed.
Row 1 (RS): K1, *YO, K1; repeat from * to M, RM, **YO, K1; repeat from
** to last st, K1.
Row 2 (WS): P to M, RM, P to end.
Row 3: K1, *K2tog; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Beginning with Row 4 of Roman Texture Pattern, work even in pattern
for 1 (5, 5, 9, 13, 17) row(s).

117
Begin Roman Stripe Pattern In the next row, the Back Neck Edging is joined to the Front body
Change to US 4 (3.5 mm) needle. piece, with an overlap at both sides of the neck. Markers are placed
throughout the neck opening to help with the neck short row shaping
Beginning with Row 1, work Roman Stripe Pattern for 20 rows.
that follows.
Change to US 3 (3.25 mm) needle.
Row 29: On the body piece, K2, *YO, K1; repeat from * to 5 sts before
Beginning with Row 1, work Roman Texture Pattern for 3 rows, ending
first M. Then holding the neck edging sts with RS facing behind the
with a RS row.
working LH needle, (YO, K1 st from front needle together with 1 st from
back needle) 5 times, SM, working sts on back needle only, K10, PM,
Neck shaping K18, PM, K10, PM, slip remaining 5 sts and leave on hold with yarn
Roman Texture Pattern is worked throughout short row shaping for the attached; do not turn. Join new ball of yarn to right side of front neck,
neckline as follows. BO 47 sts from the front needle to M, RM, BO 1 st, slip last st to LH
needle and cut this yarn. Return to the 5 sts on hold, slip them to a
Set-up Row (WS): P1, K83 (83, 85, 91, 95, 99), PM, K10, PM, K18, PM,
spare needle and with these sts behind the working LH needle, (K1 st
K10, PM, K to last st, P1. There are 4 placed markers.
from front needle together with 1 st from back needle, YO) 5 times, *K1,
Row 1 (RS): K2, *YO, K1; repeat from * to 2nd M, K to 3rd M, K1, **YO,
YO; repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2. 370 (307, 378, 402, 418, 434) sts.
K1; repeat from ** to last st, K1.
Short Row 30: P to first M; W&T.
Short Row 2 (WS): P to 2nd M; W&T.
Short Row 31: K1, *K2tog; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Short Row 3: K1, *K2tog; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Short Row 32: Picking up wrap on this and subsequent rows, P1, K to
Short Row 4: P1, K to 4 sts before last turn; W&T.
2 sts after first M; W&T.
Short Row 5: K3, *YO, K1; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Short Row 33: K1, *YO, K1; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Short Row 6: P to 2 sts before last turn; W&T.
Short Row 34: P to 2 sts after last turn; W&T.
Short Row 7: K1, *K2tog; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Short Row 35: K3, *K2tog; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Short Row 8: P1, K to 2 sts before last turn; W&T.
Short Row 36: P1, K to 2 sts after last turn; W&T.
Short Row 9: K3, *YO, K1; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Short Row 37: Repeat Short Row 33.
Short Row 10: P to first M; W&T.
Short Row 38: P to 2nd M; W&T.
Short Row 11: K1, *K2tog; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Short Row 39: K5, *K2tog; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Row 12: P1, K to 3rd M picking up wraps as you go, P to end.
Row 40: P1, K to 4th M, P to end.
Short Row 13: K2, *K2tog; repeat from * to 2nd M; W&T.
Short Row 41: K2, *K2tog; repeat from * to first M; W&T.
Short Row 14: K to last st, P1.
Short Row 42: K to last st, P1.
Short Row 15: K2, *YO, K1; repeat from * to 6 sts before 2nd M, K2;
Short Row 43: Picking up wrap on this and subsequent rows, K2, *YO,
W&T.
K1; repeat from * to 8 sts before 2nd M; W&T.
Short Row 16: P.
Short Row 44: P to end.
Short Row 17: K2, *K2tog; repeat from * to 2 sts before last turn; W&T.
Short Row 45: K2, *K2tog; repeat from * to last turn, K2; W&T.
Short Row 18: K to last st, P1.
Short Row 46: K to last st, P1.
Short Row 19: K2, *YO, K1; repeat from * to first M, K2; W&T.
Short Row 47: K2, *YO, K1; repeat from * to 4 sts before 2nd M; W&T.
Short Row 20: P.
Short Row 48: P to end.
Short Row 21: K2, *K2tog; repeat from * to first M; W&T.
Short Row 49: K2, *K2tog; repeat from * to last turn, K4; W&T.
Short Row 22: K to last st, P1.
Short Row 50: K to last st, P1.
Change to US 2 (2.75 mm) needle.
Increase Row 23 (RS): Picking up wraps as you come to them and
Back Sleeves
removing markers, (K3, M1) 13 (13, 11, 13, 13, 13) times, (K4, M1) 31
Beginning with Row 1 of Roman Texture Pattern and removing markers,
(31, 35, 35, 37, 39) times, (K3, M1) 13 (13, 11, 13, 13, 13) times, K2,
work 28 (32, 32, 36, 40, 44) rows in pattern, ending with a WS row.
M1, K2. 264 (264, 268, 284, 294, 304) sts.
Roman Texture Pattern is worked throughout short row shaping for the
Rows 24 - 27: K.
sleeves as follows.
Decrease Row 28: (K2, K2tog) 7 (7, 6, 7, 7, 7) times, (K3, K2tog) 11 (11,
Short Row 1 (RS): K10 (6, 6, 7, 5, 4), K1, *YO, K1; repeat from * to last
13, 13, 14, 15) times, (K2, K2tog) 6 (6, 5, 6, 6, 6) times, K49, (K2, K2tog)
14 (10, 10, 11, 9, 8) sts, K4; W&T.
7 (7, 6, 7, 7, 7) times, (K3, K2tog) 11 (11, 13, 13, 14, 15) times, (K2,
K2tog) 6 (6, 5, 6, 6, 6) times, K1. 216 (216, 220, 232, 240, 248) sts. Short Row 2 (WS): P to last 10 (6, 6, 7, 5, 4) sts; W&T.

Transfer the 48 sts from the Neck Edging to spare needle and keep it Short Row 3: K1, *K2tog; repeat from * to 4 sts before last turn; W&T.
ready to be worked on next row. Short Row 4: K to 4 sts before last turn; W&T.
Change to US 3 (3.25 mm) needle. Short Row 5: K4, K1, *YO, K1; repeat from * to 8 sts before last turn,
Place locking markers 84 (84, 86, 92, 96, 100) sts from each end of K4; W&T.
row. 48 sts between markers. Short Row 6: P to 4 sts before last turn; W&T.
Short Row 7: K1, *K2tog; repeat from * to 4 sts before last turn; W&T.
Short Row 8: K to 4 sts before last turn; W&T.
Short Row 9: K4, K1, *YO, K1; repeat from * to 6 sts before last turn,
K2; W&T.
Short Row 10: P to 4 sts before last turn; W&T.
Short Row 11: K1, *K2tog; repeat from * to 2 sts before last turn; W&T.
Short Row 12: K to 2 sts before last turn; W&T.
Short Row 13: K2, K1, *YO, K1; repeat from * to 4 sts before last turn,

118
K2; W&T.
Short Row 14: P to 2 sts before last turn; W&T.
Short Rows 15 to 30: Repeat Short Rows 11 - 14 four more times.
Short Row 31: K1, *K2tog; repeat from * to 2 sts before last turn, K to
end picking up wraps.

Gusset
Set-up Row 1 (WS): BO 46 (42, 42, 43, 41, 40) sts, K112 (120, 124, 134,
146, 156) sts to 1 st before next wrap, P to end picking up wraps. 160
(164, 168, 179, 189, 198) sts.
Gusset Row 1 (RS): BO 46 (42, 42, 43, 41, 40) sts, K2tog, K1 *YO, K1;
repeat from * to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 219 (235, 243, 263, 287, 307) sts.
Gusset Row 2: P.
Gusset Row 3: K1, *K2tog; repeat from * to last 4 sts, S2kp, K1.
Gusset Row 4: P1, K to last st, P1.
Gusset Row 5: K1, K2tog, K1, *YO, K1; repeat from * to last 3 sts,
K2tog, K1.
Gusset Row 6: P.
Repeat Gusset Rows 3 - 6 three times more, then work Gusset Rows 3
& 4 once more. Total 20 gusset rows have been worked and there are
94 (102, 106, 116, 128, 138) sts on the needle.
Beginning with Row 1 of Roman Texture Pattern, work 3 rows in
pattern, ending with a WS row.
Increase Row (WS): P1, K1, M1, (K3, M1) 5 (3, 3, 2, 6, 5) time(s), (K4,
M1) 15 (20, 21, 25, 22, 26) times, (K3, M1) 5 (3, 3, 2, 6, 5) times, K1, P1.
120 (129, 134, 146, 163, 175) sts on needle.
Beginning with a knit row, work even in St st until piece measures 13¾
(14, 14½, 15, 14½, 14¼)" / 35 (35.5, 37, 38, 37, 36) cm from last garter
st ridge, ending with a WS row.
Change to US 2 (2.75 mm) needle.
Knit 6 rows. Bind off loosely.

Finishing
Block to schematic measurements, taking care not to stretch out garter
stitch at hems, neckline and down the center of the sleeves.
Sew sleeve and side seams.
Tack down edges of front neck edging and weave in ends.

119
Suiren by Orlane Sucche

67” / 170 cm

24"
60 cm

Specifications Stitch Guide

M1: open bar increase: insert the right needle under the bar between
Yarn
the stitch that is on right needle and the stitch that is one the left needle
Fingering weight yarn
from front to back. Wrap the yarn under, then over the right needle. Pull
Approximately 785 yards / 720 m a loop through the picked-up strand, creating a new stitch.
2 skeins of Miss Babs Northumbria Fingering (100% Bluefaced Cross 2 R: Right crossed stitches: Knit second stitch, moving needle
Leicester wool; 437 yards / 400 m, 100g) around first stitch. Then knit first stitch in a normal way. Drop both
Sample is shown in Muslin stitches from needle together.
Decrease Bind-Off: Step 1: Knit the first two stitches on left needle
Needles
together through their back loops. Step 2: Slip the new stitch on the
A US 5 (3.75 mm) 32"/ 80 cm (or longer) circular needle
right needle back to the left needle. Repeat these 2 steps across the
Or, needles required to obtain gauge row.

Gauge (after blocking) Knotted eyelet: (see Chart 3): Pass third stitch on left needle over the
21 stitches & 30 rows = 4"/ 10 cm in St st with US 5 (3.75 mm) needle first two stitches, Ktbl, YO, Ktbl.

Sizes
Finished measurements:
Approx. 67"/ 170 cm wingspan and 24" / 60 cm deep at center

Tools
Stitch markers, tapestry needle, blocking tools (mats, lace blocking
wires, T-pins)

Skill Level
●●●

Notes
The shawl starts at the center top and it’s shaped with increases: one
increase at each top edge on every row and one increase before and
after the 3-stitch garter center panel on every right side row. The main
textured fabric is designed with columns of crossed stitches. This soft
texture is crossed by three elongation stripes (formed by long stitches).
The twisted stitches and triangles of the border finish the shawl in such
a lovely way.

120
Chart 1
2 2

2 2

2 2

2 2

2 2

2 2

2 2

2 2

Chart 2
2 2

2 2

2 2

2 2

2 2

2 2

2 2

2 2

Instructions Row 2 (RS): K3, *work a double yarnover, K1, repeat from * to 3 sts
before end, K3. Every st (except garter border sts) will be elongated,
Set up (Garter tab cast on)
so every stitch will have a double yarnover next to it.
With Long-Tail Cast-On method, CO 3 sts.
Row 3: K3, *K1, drop the yarnovers off the needle, repeat from * to 3
Rows 1-6: K all sts.
sts before end, K3.
Row 7: K3, do not turn. Rotate work 90 degrees clockwise, pick up and
Row 4: K3, Kfb, K all sts to 4 sts before end, Kfb, K3. 79 sts.
K one st in each of 3 purl ridges along garter edge. Rotate work 90
Row 5: K3, Pfb, P all sts to 4 sts before end, Pfb, K3. 81 sts.
degrees clockwise again, pick up and K 3 sts along cast on edge. TW.
9 sts.
Row 8 (WS): K all sts. Section 4
Work Chart 2 three times. 153 sts.

Section 1 Work Rows 1-7 of Chart 2 once again (ending with RS row). 175 sts.

Note: Use Open bar increase for M1 (see Stitch Guide).

Section 5 - Elongated stripe

Row 1 (RS): K3, M1, PM, K3, PM, M1, K3. 11 sts. Work as Section 3. 181 sts.

Row 2 (WS): K3, P1, SM, K3, P1, K3.

Row 3: K3, Kfb, M1, SM, K3, SM, M1, Kfb, K3. 15 sts. Section 6

Row 4: K3, Pfb, P2, SM, K3, SM, P2, Pfb, K3. 17 sts. Work Chart 1 seven times, and work Rows 1-7 once more. (ending with
a RS row). 371 sts
Row 5: K3, Kfb, Cross 2 R, K1, M1, SM, K3, SM, M1, K1, Cross 2 R,
Kfb, K3. 21 sts. (See Stitch Guide for crossed stitches)
Row 6: K3, Pfb, P to M, SM, K3, SM, P to 4 sts before end, Pfb, K3. 23 Section 7 - Elongated stripe
sts. Work as Section 3. 377 sts.
Row 7: K3, Kfb, K2, Cross 2 R, K2, M1, SM, K3, SM, M1, K2, Cross 2 R,
K2, Kfb, K3. 27 sts. Section 8: Border
Row 8: As Row 6. 29 sts. Work Chart 3 once.
Note: You may find it helpful to place markers between each 16-stitch
Section 2 repeat.
Work Chart 1 once. 53 sts. After completing the 20 rows of Chart 3, you have 435 sts.
Work Rows 1-7 of Chart 1 once more (ending with a RS row). 75 sts. BO all sts using Decrease Bind-Off method. (See Stitch Guide).

Section 3 – Elongated stripe Finishing

Row 1 (WS): K3, Kfb, K all sts to 4 sts before end, Kfb, K3. 77 sts. Weave in ends. Soak and block your shawl to measurements.

121
 (RS) K / (WS) P
(RS) P / (WS) K

2
Cross 2 R

2
Pass third stitch on left needle over the first two stitches, Ktbl, YO, Ktbl

2
2
(RS) Kfb, (WS) Pfb

2
(RS) Ktbl / (WS) Ptbl

2
M1: Open-bar increase

2
repetition

2
markers

2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
Chart 3

122
Wings of the Dove by Joan Forgione

48” / 122 cm

24”
61 cm

Specifications Stitch Guide

C6B: Cable 6 back. Place the next 3 sts onto a cable needle, hold at
Yarn
back of work, K3, then K3 from the cable needle, dropping additional
Lace weight yarn
wraps off the needle.
Approximately 700 yards / 640 m.
C6F: Cable 6 front. Place the next 3 sts onto a cable needle, hold at
Freia Fine Handpaints Freia Ombré Merino Lace (100% Merino wool; front of work, K3, then K3 from the cable needle, dropping additional
712 yards / 75g). wraps off the needle.
Sample is shown in Whisper, 1 skein. Elongated knit stitches: Insert right needle as if to knit, then wrap yarn
around needle 3 times (instead of once) and draw through stitch. On
Needles
the following row, 2 of these wraps are dropped off the needle, forming
A US 3 (3.25 mm) 32"/ 80 cm circular needle
one long stitch.
Or, needles required to obtain gauge

Gauge (after blocking)

24 stitches & 28 rows = 4"/ 10 cm in St st with US 3 (3.25 mm) needle
Instructions
Edging
Size With Long-Tail Cast-On method, CO 427 sts.
Finished wingspan: 48"/ 122 cm, depth: 24"/ 61 cm
Set-up row (WS): K3, PM, K to last 3 sts, PM, K3.
Tools Row 1(RS): K3, SM, work Lace Edging Chart to last 4 sts, P1, SM, K3.
Stitch markers (2), cable needle, tapestry needle, blocking wires, Row 2 (WS): K3, SM, K1, work Lace Edging Chart to M, SM, K3.
blocking pins
Repeat previous 2 rows 26 more times, working 6-row Lace Edging
Skill Level Chart 9 times total.
●●● Total 55 rows have been worked.
Next row (RS): K3, SM, P to M, SM, K3.
Notes
The shawl is knitted from the bottom up, beginning with a large number Next row (WS): K to end.
of stitches. Each successive decrease row reduces the number of
stitches by approximately half. The first and last 3 stitches of each row
are knitted in garter stitch. These stitches form the top border of the
shawl when finished.
Yarn-overs in the lace pattern affect the yardage requirement, so be
sure not to make the yarn-overs too loosely.

123
 Lace Edging Chart Elongated Cable Chart

Framed Eyelet Chart

RS : K / WS : P
RS : P / WS : K
Knit 1, wrapping yarn around needle 3 times
K2tog
YO
SSK
C6B, dropping additional wraps off the needle
C6F, dropping additional wraps off the needle

Begin with a knit row, work 8 rows in St st with garter border. Next row (RS): K3, SM, P to M, SM, K3.
Decrease Row (RS): K3, SM, K2, (K2tog) to last 4 sts, K1, SM, K3. Next row (WS): K to end.
218 sts remain. Decrease Row 3 (RS): K3, SM, (K2tog) to M, SM, K3. 32 sts remain.
Begin with a purl row, work 3 rows in St st with garter border. Next row (WS): K3, SM, P to M, SM, K3.
Next row: K3, SM, work Framed Eyelet Chart to M, SM, K3.
Body Repeat previous row 3 more times, ending with chart row 4.
Row 1 (RS): K3, SM, K1, work Elongated Cable Chart to last 4 sts, K1, Begin with a knit row, work 2 rows in St st with garter border.
SM, K3. Decrease Row 4 (RS): K3, SM, (K2tog) to M, SM, K3. 19 sts remain.
Row 2 (WS): K3, SM, K1, work Elongated Cable Chart to last 4 sts, K1, Next row (WS): K3, SM, P to M, SM, K3.
SM, K3.
Begin with a knit row, work 2 rows in St st with garter border.
Repeat previous 2 rows 24 more times, ending with chart row 10.
Decrease Row 5 (RS): K3, SM, K3tog, (K2tog) to M, SM, K3. 12 sts
Total 50 rows have been worked. remain.
Begin with a knit row, work 2 rows in St st with garter border. Next row (WS): K3, SM, P6, SM, K3.
Next row (RS): K3, SM, P to M, SM, K3. Decrease Row 6 (RS): K3, SM, (K2tog) to M, SM, K3. 9 sts remain.
Next row (WS): K to end. Next row (WS): K3, SM, P3, SM, K3.
Decrease Row 1 (RS): K3, SM, (K2tog) to M, SM, K3. 112 sts remain. Final decrease row (RS): K3, remove M, S2kp, remove M, K3.
Next row (WS): K3, SM, P to M, SM, K3. 7 sts remain.
Next row: K3, SM, work Framed Eyelet Chart to M, SM, K3.
Repeat previous row 3 more times, ending with chart row 4. Finishing
Begin with a knit row, work 24 rows in St st with garter border. K2, SSK. Do not work remaining 3 sts.
Next row (RS): K3, SM, P to M, SM, K3. Using tapestry needle, graft together 3 sts from each end of the knitting
Next row (WS): K to end. needle. Use blocking wires along garter stitch at top edge. Pin out lace
Decrease Row 2 (RS): K3, SM, K3tog, (K2tog) to last 6 sts, K3tog, SM, edging, measuring equal distances from grafted stitches.
K3. 58 sts remain.
Next row (WS): K3, SM, P to M, SM, K3.
Next row: K3, SM, work Framed Eyelet Chart to M, SM, K3.
Repeat previous row 3 more times, ending with chart row 4.
Begin with a knit row, work 8 rows in St st with garter border.

124
Loie by Maddie Harvey

88½" / 225 cm

25½”
65 cm

Specifications Instructions
Main Body
Yarn
Lace weight yarn With MC, make a slip knot on smaller needles. 1 st

(MC) Approximately 590 yards / 540 m Work Chart A once.

(CC) Approximately 165 yards / 150 m Total 40 rows have been worked and 20 sts increased. 21 sts

Anzula Luxury Fibers Breeze Lace (65% silk, 35% linen; 750 yards / Work Chart B 9 times.
685 m, 114g) Total 180 rows have been worked and 90 sts increased. 111 sts
Sample is shown in Nimbus (MC) 1 skein, Seaside (CC) 1 skein Work Chart C 9 times.
Total 180 rows have been worked and 90 sts decreased. 21 sts
Needles
Work Chart D once.
A US 5 (3.75 mm) 32"/ 80 cm (or longer) circular needle
Total 38 rows have been worked and 20 sts decreased. 1 st.
A US 7 (4.5 mm) 32"/ 80 cm (or longer) circular needle
Break yarn and thread through the last stitch.
Or, needles required to obtain gauge plus needles two sizes larger

Gauge (after blocking) Garter Rib Edging

21 stitches & 26 rows = 4"/ 10 cm in main garter rib pattern with US 5
Change to larger needles. Lay the triangle piece with the longest side
(3.75 mm) needle
on left and the corner across from the side on right with RS facing up.
Sizes Using MC and beginning at the corner across the longest side, pick up
Finished measurement: 88½" / 225 cm x 25½" / 65 cm and knit 110 sts toward the top corner (pick up one stitch from each
slipped stitch along edge).
Tools Next Row (WS): Sl 1 st, K4, P5, *K5, P5; repeat from * to end.
Tapestry needle, stitch markers (optional)
Change to smaller needles.
Skill Level Work Chart E twice, then Rows 1-10 only once more from the chart.
●●● Total 50 rows have been worked and 25 sts increased. 135 sts

Notes Next Row (RS): Sl1, K to last 2 sts, Kfb, K1. 136 sts
Main body of the shawl is knitted from side to side in the MC. Stitches Next Row (WS): Sl1, K to end.
are picked up along one edge for the garter rib edging, also in the MC. Repeat the last two rows once more. 137 sts
Using the CC, stitches are then picked up along the opposite edge for
Bind-off with larger needles, as follows: K1, *Sl 1 st back to LH needle,
the lace edging. Optional markers can be used to mark the garter rib,
K2tog tbl; repeat from * until 1 st remains.
and also to mark the lace repeats.
Break yarn and thread through the last stitch.

125
Chart A Chart B

2 2

2
2

2
2

2
2

2
2

2
2

2
2

2
2

2 2

2 (RS) K / (WS) P
(RS) P / (WS) K
2

No stitch
2
YO
2
(RS) K2tog / (WS) P2tog

2 (RS) Slip, (WS) Slip purlwise wyf

Repeat
2
2
(RS) Kfb, (WS) Pfb
2
(RS) SSK / (WS) P2tog tbl
2 (RS) P2tog / (WS) K2tog

2
(RS) Slip purlwise wyf / (WS) Slip

Lace Edging
Change to larger needles. Lay the piece with the longest side at bottom
with RS facing up. Using CC and beginning at the right hand corner,
pick up and knit 139 sts toward the corner across from the longest side
(pick up one stitch from each slipped stitch along edge).
Next Row (WS): Sl1, K1, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Change to smaller needles.
Work Rows 1-30 of Chart F once. then Rows 1-9 only once more, from
the chart.
Total 39 rows have been worked and 20 sts increased. 159 sts
Next Row (WS): Sl1, K to end.
Next Row (RS): Sl1, Kfb, K to end. 160 sts
Next Row (WS): Sl1, K to end.
Bind-off with larger needles, as follows: K1, *Sl 1 st back to LH needle,
K2tog tbl; repeat from * until 1 st remains.
Break yarn and thread through the last stitch.
Weave in the ends and block to measurements given in schematic.

126
Chart C

Chart D Chart E

127
Chart F

128
Yuri by Amy Miller

Specifications Next Row: K to end, picking up last wrap.

Next Row: P to end, picking up last wrap.
Yarn
Work even until back measures 4 (4¼, 4½, 5, 5½, 6)" / 10.5 (11, 11.5,
Fingering weight yarn
13, 14, 15.5) cm from CO at armhole edge, finishing after a WS row.
Approximately 1020 (1085, 1225, 1375, 1540, 1710) yards / 935 (990,
1120, 1255, 1405, 1560) m
Back Armhole shaping
5 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) skeins of Quince and Co. Tern (75% wool, 25% silk; 221
yards / 50g) Armhole Increase row (RS): K2, M1R, K to last 2 sts, M1L, K2. 2 sts
increased.
Sample is shown in 422 Rose Quartz
Next Row (WS): P to end.
Needles Repeat previous 2 rows 7 (7, 10, 10, 11, 13) more times. 86 (90, 98,
A US 4 (3.5 mm) 32"/ 80 cm circular needle 106, 116, 124) sts. Place sts on stitch holder or waste yarn.
A US 2 (2.75 mm) 32"/ 80 cm circular needle
A set of US 4 (3.5 mm) double pointed needles (DPNs) or preferred Right Front
small circumference needles
With RS facing and starting at armhole edge, use larger needles to pick
A set of US 2 (2.75 mm) double pointed needles (DPNs) or preferred up 11 (13, 14, 18, 22, 24) sts from back cast on edge.
small circumference needles
Or, needles required to obtain gauge
Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyf, P to end.
Gauge (after blocking) Row 2 (RS): K to end.
25 sts & 36 rows = 4" / 10 cm in St st with US 4 (3.5 mm) needle Continue in St st with slip st selvedge as established until front
measures 2¼ (2½, 2¾, 3¼, 3¾, 4¼)" / 6 (6.5, 7, 8.5, 9.5, 11) cm from
Sizes
pick up edge, finishing after a WS row.
Finished chest measurements: XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) = 32 (34, 36¼,
40¼, 44, 48)" / 81 (86, 92, 102, 111.5, 121) cm
Shape neck and armhole
The sample was knit in size S with 1¼" / 3 cm positive ease.
Note: Work increases simultaneously at both neckline and armhole.
Tools Neck Increase row (RS): K to last 2 sts, M1R, K2. 1 st increased.
Stitch marker (1), stitch holders or waste yarn, tapestry needle, US E /
Next Row (WS): P to end.
4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook
Repeat previous 2 rows 24 more times, AT THE SAME TIME, when
Skill Level front measures 6 (6¼, 5¾, 6¼, 6½, 6¾)" / 15.5 (16, 15, 16, 16.5, 17.5)
●●● cm from pick up edge, shape armhole:
Armhole Increase row (RS) K2, M1R, K to end. 1 st increased.
Notes
Sweater knit alternately flat and in the round from the top down. Next Row (WS): P to end.
Stitches are cast on at the back neck and back is worked flat through Repeat previous 2 rows 7 (7, 10, 10, 11, 13) more times. 44 (46, 50, 54,
armholes. Stitches for the front are picked up from the cast on edge 59, 63) sts.
at the shoulders and worked flat through the armholes. Fronts and Place sts on stitch holder or waste yarn.
back are then joined and worked flat until raised seam, where they are
cast off. Center front is partially seamed at the bust. Stitches are then
Left Front
picked up all around empire waist and body is worked in the round to
the hem. Sleeves are picked up from the armholes, sleeve caps are With RS and starting at neck edge, use larger needles to pick up 11 (13,
shaped with short rows and sleeve is then worked in the round. A 14, 18, 22, 24) sts from back cast on edge.
crocheted chain is used to reinforce the neck edge. The sleeves can
be knitted using the magic loop method or using DPNs. Row 1 (WS): P to end.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1 wyb, K to end.
Continue in St st with slip st selvedge as established until front
Instructions
measures 2¼ (2½, 2¾, 3¼, 3¾, 4¼)" / 6 (6.5, 7, 8.5, 9.5, 11) cm from
Back pick up edge, finishing after a WS row.
With Long-Tail Cast-On method, CO 70 (74, 76, 84, 92, 96) sts using
larger needle. Work short rows to shape shoulders as follows:
Shape neck and armhole
Short Row 1 (RS): K 60 (64, 66, 66, 74, 72) sts, W&T.
Note: Work increases simultaneously at both neckline and armhole.
Short Row 2 (WS): P 50 (54, 56, 48, 56, 48) sts, W&T.
Neck Increase row (RS) Sl1 wyb, K1, M1L, K to end. 1 st increased.
Short Row 3: K to last wrap, pick up wrap and K, K 0 (0, 0, 1, 1, 2),
Next Row (WS): P to end.
W&T.
Short Row 4: P to last wrap, pick up wrap and P, P 0 (0, 0, 1, 1, 2),
W&T.
Repeat previous 2 rows 6 more times.

129
 2 (2½, 2½, 3, 3½, 4)"
4.5 (5.5, 6, 7.5, 9, 10) cm 7½" / 19.5 cm

6 (6.5, 7, 8, 8½, 9½)"

15, (15.5, 18, 19.5, 21, 23.5) cm

11 (11¾, 12, 13½, 14½, 16)"

27.5 (29, 30.5, 34, 36, 40) cm

32 (34, 36¼, 40¼, 44, 48)"

81 (86, 92, 102, 111.5, 121) cm
15½"
39.5 cm

40¾ (43, 46½, 50¼, 55, 58¾)"

103.5 (108, 118, 127.5, 139.5, 149) cm

Repeat previous 2 rows 24 more times, AT THE SAME TIME, when Bottom Hem
front measures 6 (6¼, 5¾, 6¼, 6½, 6¾)" / 15.5 (16, 15, 16, 16.5, 17.5)
Change to smaller needle.
cm from pick up edge, shape armhole:
Next Rnd: *K1, P1; repeat from * to end.
Armhole Increase row (RS): Sl1 wyb, K to last 2 sts, M1L, K2. 1 st
Repeat this rnd 3 more times. BO all sts using Tubular Bind-Off
increased.
method.
Next Row (WS): P to end.
Repeat previous 2 rows 7 (7, 10, 10, 11, 13) more times. 44 (46, 50, 54,
Sleeve
59, 63) sts.
With larger DPNs, begin at center of underarm and pick up 68 (72, 76,
84, 90, 100) sts. PM and join to work in the round.
Join Fronts and Back
Next Row (RS): K44 (46, 50, 54, 59, 63) left front sts, with Backward
Shape sleeve cap with short rows as follows:
Loop Cast-On method CO 14 (16, 16, 20, 22, 26) sts for underarm, K86
(90, 98, 106, 116, 124) back sts, with Backward Loop Cast-On method Short Row 1 (RS): K45 (48, 51, 56, 60, 67), W&T.
CO 14 (16, 16, 20, 22, 26) sts for underarm, K44 (46, 50, 54, 59, 63) Short Row 2 (WS): P22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 34), W&T.
right front sts. 202 (214, 230, 254, 278, 302) sts. Short Row 3: K to last wrapped stitch, pick up wrap and K, W&T.
Next Row (WS): P to end. Short Row 4: P to last wrapped stitch, pick up wrap and P, W&T.
Repeat previous 2 rows 14 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18) more times.
Body Next Row: K to end of rnd.
Work even in St st with selvedge as established until body measures 5" K 2 rnds.
/ 13 cm from armhole cast on edge. BO all sts. Change to smaller needles.
Using mattress stitch, seam fronts together at center line from WS with Next Rnd: *K1, P1; repeat from * to end.
selvedges showing on RS.
Repeat this rnd 3 more times.
Using larger needle, with WS facing, begin at center of left underarm
BO all sts using Tubular Bind-Off method.
and pick up 86 (90, 98, 106, 116,124) sts for the front half and 86 (90,
98, 106, 116, 124) sts for the back half, so bind off edge is visible. PM.
172 (180, 196, 212, 232, 248) sts. Join to work in the rnd. Finishing
Neck
Body Increase rnd (RS): *K1, Kfb; repeat from * to end. 258 (270, 294, With RS facing, using crochet hook, crochet a chain (one crochet chain
318, 348, 372) sts. Work even in St st until body measures 10" / 25.5 st per knit st/row) across back neck directly next to cast on edge, along
cm from pick up edge. left front directly next to selvedge edge, and along right front directly
next to selvedge edge. Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

130
 STAY IN TOUCH
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