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 Workshop Safety Rules
1) Student affected by drugs or alcohol are not permitted in the
workshop.
2) Students with any health problems that may affect workplace safety (e.g.,
medication, epileptic fits) must report these conditions to the workshop staff.
3) Notify the workshop staff of your arrival.
4) No food or drink in the workshop.
5) Wear the correct protective equipment for the tools you are using – ask if in
doubt.
6) All chemicals (e.g. glues and paints) must be checked through Chem watch
and with workshop staff before use.
7) Immediately notify the workshop supervisor of any faulty or broken
equipment.
8) Ask how to use the tools safely.
9) Make sure your work piece is fixed securely before work commences.
10) Keep leads up off the floor.
11) Keep clear of any person operating tools and machinery (bumping an
operator or get tangled in the lead could cause serious injury to you or the
operator).
12) Do not talk to anyone operating electrical equipment and machinery.
13) Keep your work area tidy.
14) Clean up any spills immediately.
15) Wash hands after using equipment and materials.

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 Holding Tools
Bench Vice: Vise, also spelled Vice, device consisting of two parallel jaws for holding a workpiece; one of
the jaws is fixed and the other movable by a screw, a lever, or a cam. When used for holding a workpiece
during hand operations, such as filing, hammering, or sawing, the vise may be permanently bolted to a
bench. In vises designed to hold metallic workpieces, the active faces of the jaws are hardened steel plates,
often removable, with serrations that grip the workpiece; to prevent damage to soft parts, the permanent
jaws can be covered with temporary jaws made from sheet copper or leather. Pipe vises have double V-
shaped jaws that grip in four places
instead of only two.
Woodworking vises have
smooth jaws, often of wood,
and rely on friction alone
rather than on serrations.
For holding workpieces on
the tables of machine tools,
vises with smooth hardened-
steel jaws and flat bases are
used.
These machine vises are portable but may be clamped to the machine table when in use; means may also
be provided for swivelling the active part of the vise so that the workpiece can be held in a variety of
positions relative to the base. For holding parts that cannot be clamped with flat jaws, special jaws can be
provided. Pipe Vice: A pipe vise is an apparatus which enables a pipe to be held tightly. Complete with two
half-circle jaws, the pipe vise can be tightened to grip a pipe and hold it securely while it is being worked
on. Often a feature of a common bench vise, the addition of a pipe vise
makes the bench vise an all-purpose tool capable of
performing many more tasks. The teeth of the vise are critical
in the gripping success of the tool, as rounded or dull teeth
allow the pipe to slip and roll even though the vise is
tightened. Certain models of pipe vise contain a linked chain
component that is used to grip and hold the pipe. By placing
the chain around the pipe and securing it into position on the
vise, it is tightened by the vise handle and provides the
ultimate in clamping force. The chain's ability to wrap tightly
around the pipe instead of simply
contacting two sides makes it possible to grip the entire circumference of the pipe, more than quadrupling
the clamping surface of the vise.
Hand Vice: A hand vice is similar in appearance to a pair of tongs, and has a simple design which consists of
two connected handles, each with an integrated jaw on the
end.It is called a hand vice because it is designed to be used in
the hand. A hand vice is probably the most versatile of all the
hand-held vice types, as its tong-like structure means it can be
used to hold minute workpieces as well as slightly larger ones.
This type of hand-held vice is ideal for general use in craft work
and home DIY. A hand vice would be useful, for example,
when using a hot glue gun. By gripping a small workpiece,
the vice allows the user to keep their hands out of the way and
eliminates the risk of the user burning their hands on the glue.
Hand vices are often made from drop forged steel for strength, as forged steel parts are generally believed
to be superior to metals made by other methods as the forging process often produces a better quality
finish.

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PIN VICE: Pin vices are tool holding devices that allow small tools to be
held in place with positive acting jaws (think mini-chuck). These pin
vices are available a few collet, handle, end and length varieties. Step 1 –
Insert collet. Unscrew the head and insert the required collet. Step 2 –
Insert
drill bit. Half tighten the chuck, then insert your drill bit or other device
into the collet jaws. Step 3 – Tighten chuck head. Fully tighten the chuck
head to secure the drill bit. Step 4 – Hold pin vice.

MACHINE VICE: A machine vice is a clamping device used to hold a workpiece securely when operating a
machine tool, such as a drill press or milling machine. It differs from
metalworking and woodworking vices as it is mounted to the table
of a machine tool instead of a workbench. A machine vice is
attached to the drill press or milling machine’s table in order to
relieve the user’s hands from holding the workpiece when drilling,
milling, or completing similar tasks. A machine vice is needed
because machining operations can be dangerous, and so the vice
decreases the amount of risk involved by holding the workpiece for
the user. It also allows the user to complete machining projects
with a great deal of accuracy and precision, as the vice can be
perfectly aligned
with the machine’s drill bit or cutter before being secured into place. Machine vices can be used to hold a
variety of materials, including metal, wood and plastic.

HACKSAW
HACKSAW: A hacksaw is a hand-powered, small-toothed saw used for cutting metal pipes, rods, brackets,
etc. Hacksaws can also cut through plastic. The hacksaw has a U-shaped frame and a handle at one
end. Hacksaws have small pins at each end of the frame that receive a blade. A tensioner nut or knob is
then used to extend the length of the frame, which puts tension on the blade and locks it in place. The
blade can be installed to cut on either the push or pull stroke; cutting on the push stroke is more common.
Here are the basic parts: 1)D-handle2)Tensioner knob3)Blade tensioner4)Blade Pins5)Blade6)Frame. Many
hacksaws have a two-part adjustable frame and a pistol grip handle. Hacksaws are used by plumbers to cut
pipes and occasionally by electricians to cut conduit. The hacksaw got its name because historically these
saws did not cut smoothly. However, developments in the tooling have improved the cutting precision
of the hacksaw. These days, most pros cut metal parts with a reciprocating saw, but they keep hacksaws on
hand for jobs that need a more delicate touch.
How is a hacksaw used: Be sure that the blade is tightened and tensioned. Mark the pipe or conduit at the
appropriate length. Line up the blade with the mark. Draw the saw back and forth on the mark. Some
hacksaws can hold both 10-in. and 12-in. blades. There are 6-in. hacksaws available. Handle styles vary.
Compact/mini hacksaws consist of just a handle and a blade, similar to a knife. Tensioner mechanisms vary.
Some hacksaws can pivot the blades to a 45° angle to allow for flush cuts.

Fixed Hacksaw Frame: In shape, it looks like the English

letter “C”. On one end of these arms, a handle is fixed
and on the other end, a pin is fixed. A pin each is the fixed
handle and sliding screw itself in which hacksaw blade is
fitted. A hacksaw blade is fitted on these pins and then it
is tightened according to need with fly nut or wing nut.
Mainly hacksaw frames are of two types.

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Adjustable Hacksaw Frame: Adjustable Hacksaw provides efficient
cutting power in a durable all metal frame. Its adjustable frame
accepts replacement 10 in. or 12 in. blades and features a tool free
blade change mechanism. The ergonomic contoured grip allows for
comfortable extended usage on the jobsite.

Hacksaw Blade: The hacksaw is used to cut steel and other metals. It can also be used to cut plastics,
although it is not normally used to cut woods. It is sometimes called an adjustable hacksaw because the
length of the frame can be altered to hold blades of
different sizes.
Blades are supplied
in two lengths,
250mm and 300mm.
If the adjusting screw
is unscrewed, the
frame can be pushed into the handle so that the smaller blades fit
the hacksaw. Blades are also described by the number of teeth
per inch (TPI). Blades have 14, 18, 24, 32 teeth per 25mm (inch). A blade with 14 TPI is coarse whilst a
blade with 32 TPI is very fine.
Mechanical File
FILE: Files of different types are the principal hand tools used by a fitter. Files are often used to put the
finishing touches on a machined work piece, either to remove burrs or sharp edges or as a final fitting
operation. Intricate parts or shapes are often produced entirely by skilled workers using files. In this unit
you are introduced to the types and uses of files in metalworking. The hand file is parallel in width and
tapering slightly in thickness, towards the tip. It is provided with double cut teeth on the faces, single cut
on one edge and no teeth on the other edge, which is known as the safe edge.When a file is measured, the
length is taken from the heel to the point, with the tang excluded. Most files are made from high-carbon
steel and are heat- treated to the correct hardness range. They are manufactured in four different cuts:
single, double, curved tooth, and rasp. The single cut, double cut, and curved tooth are commonly
encountered in machine shops. Rasps are generally used with wood. Curved tooth files will give excellent
results with soft materials such as Aluminium, Brass, Plastic, or lead. Files also vary in their coarseness:
rough, coarse, bastard, second cut, smooth, and dead smooth. The files most often used are the bastard,
second cut and smooth grades. Different sizes of files within the same coarseness designation will have
varying sizes of teeth, the longer the file, the coarser the teeth. For maximum metal removal a double-cut
file is used. If the emphasis is on a smooth finish, a single-cut file is recommended. The face of most files is
slightly convex because they are made thicker in the middle than on the ends. Because of this curvature
only some of the teeth are cutting at any one time, which makes them penetrate better. If the face were
flat, it would be difficult to obtain an even surface because of the tendency to rock a file while filing. Some
of this curvature is also offset by the pressure applied to make the file cut. New files do not cut as well as
slightly used ones, since on new files some teeth are longer than most of the others and leave scratches on
a workpiece.
Files are classified according to their shape, cutting teeth and pitch or grade of the teeth, Figure shows
the various types of files in use based on their shape.
SIZE OF FILE:The size of the file is indicated by its length. It is the distance from the point to the heel
without tang. The length of the file, in general use, is 200 mm to 450 mm and 100 mm to 200 m for finer
work.
CUT OF TEETH:The files according to the cut of teeth are divided into two groups i.e. single cut and double
cut.In single cut files, the teeth are cut parallel to each other running across the faces and at angle of 65° to
70° to the centre line of the file. These files are frequently termed as flats and are particularly used for very
hard metals. In double cut files, there are two sets of teeth. The first set of teeth are similar to those of
single cut files while the second set of teeth are cut diagonally across the first set of teeth at an angle of
about 70° to the centre line of the file. All the teeth have negative rake i.e. sloping backwards by which
they cut only on the forward stroke. It removes the metal faster and is used for general work.
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 GRADE OF CUT OF FILE:
The single cut and double cut files, depending upon the pitch of the teeth may be classified as ROUGH,
BASTARD, SECOND CUT, DEAD SMOOTH and SUPERFINE.

EFFECTIVE LENGTH OF FILE = 100 mm

S. GRADE OF NUMBER OF CUTS PER 10

No. FILE MM OF LENGTH USES

It is used for heavy reduction and filing

1 ROUGH 10 casting after chipping.

2 BASTARD 18 It is used for reducing bulky work.

SECOND
3 CUT 21 It is used for general work.

It is used for smoothening surfaces and

4 SMOOTH 30 filing delicate works.

DEAD
5 SMOOTH 35

SUPER These are used by toolmakers and silver

6 SMOOTH 63 smiths for high accuracy and finish.

TYPES OF FILES
1) Flat file: This file is of rectangular cross-section in shape. It is made slightly tapered both in
width and thickness. Double cut teeth are cut on the face and simple-cut teeth are cut on the
edge. These are used to reduce flat surface by filing of finishing.

2) Round file: This type of file has a round section. It is used for rubbing or finishing
keyhole of small diameter.

3) Half-round file: It is a file which is on the side and curved on the other side. Double cut
dents are cut on it and like a round file, it is also tapered. With this file, the damaged hole
can be set in order again.

4) Triangular file: It is triangular in shape. Its angles are of 60°. Filing of “V” slots job,
square and rectangular jobs of above 60° and below 90° angle are done with this
file. It is also known as three square files.
5) Square file: It is square in shape and is somewhat tapered. Filing of rectangular, square
groove, slots and key-way is done with this file.

6) Hand file: This file is almost similar to the flat file. It is used for filing of
internal right angle side of a job. It is also called safe edge file.

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7) Knife file: Its shape is like the edge of a knife. Its thin edge is
about 10° angle. It is used for filing small grooves and slots whose
angle is less than 60°. It is generally used in the lock industry for
making keys.
Classification According to Grade
1) Rough File: In this type of file, teeth are of big size and less in
number. It is used for cutting soft materials because its cutting is
rough. Because of rough cutting, it cannot be used for hard metal.

2) Bastard File: Teeth of this file are comparatively smaller than those of the rough
file. It is used initially to shed metal (through filing) in large quantity.

3) Second-cut File: This is a file of medium grade. In the filler trade, this file is
mostly used to bring the job in the proper size. As compared to the bastard file,
filing done with this file makes the surface plain. This file makes the surface quite
plain, in addition to making a job of accurate size through filing. Its teeth are very
close to each other and it rubs off the metal in very little quantity. It is used for
bringing shinning on the job after finishing has been done.
a) Single-cut File: This is file has parallel lines of teeth running diagonally across its face in one
direction only. Metal surface is rubbed in little quantity and thus the
surface becomes smooth. Therefore it is used for hard metal
and for finishing.
b) Double-cut File: This file has two rows of teeth crossing
each other at an angle of 40° to 45° and the other row has
angles of 70° to 80°. Because of double teeth, this file cuts
metal quickly but it cannot make the surface very smooth.
That is why it is generally used for normal filing . It is also
called a coarse type file. In 30° to 35° and the other row is
of 80° to 87° angles.

C)Curved-cut File: It is also known as Vixen file. The curved-cut file is used for
filing of the wide surfaces of soft metal like aluminium, zinc, copper and brass.
It has circular teeth .

d) Spiral-cut File: These types of teeth are cut in round or semi-

round files. The shape of their teeth is like that of threads.

e)Rasp Cut File: This is a file of special thick teeth. These teeth are of triangle shape
and are in a bulging state. It is used for jobs of woods, plastic, fiber, hard rubber,
and job of horns and hoof of animals.
Methods of Filing.
1) In order to get the proper surface through filing, the following points need consideration: Choose the
right type of file, according to the job.
2) There should be handle fitted on the tang of the file. In small files, a small handle should be fitted and a
larger handle in a larger file. Otherwise, proper and power would be unnecessarily wasted.
3) Hold the handle of the file with the right hand and keep the file end balanced with the left hand.
4)At the time of filing, the left leg should be kept ahead and the right leg a little behind as shown in fig.
5)Pressure on the file should be exerted while moving it ahead, not while driving it back.

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6) Only your hands should move with the file and not your whole body. As far as possible, keep rest of your
body still.
7) Speed of moving the file should be at the rate of 30 to 35 strokes per minute.
Precautions of Using Files
Following are the precautions of using files:
1) Select the file according to the job.
2) Do not use a file without a handle. According to the size, the complete handle should be fixed on the file.
3) First, a new file should be used on soft metal, and then it can use on solid metal.
4) If substantial material is to be cut then first chipping should be done and then filing.
5) For filing of sheet metal jobs, the job should be fixed in a vice by using wood on both its sides. It should
also be ensured that the sheet should not be higher than vice.
6) While filing a sheet, we should cut it in length.
7) We should make use of chalk in order to save the job from pinning. If there are metal particles on the file
there should be cleaned with a brush.
8) Keep and file away from other tools. They should not be heaped together.
9) The file should not be heated.
10) Do not apply oil or grease to the file.
Applications of Files
1) A file is used for giving final finishing touches to a job of metal or wood.
2) After chipping a job of metal generally becomes rough and a file is used to make it smooth.
3) In case of a machine, the part is larger in size than the required size, a file is used to make it suitable.
4) In addition, a file is used to where other cutting tools cannot be used.
5) Files are also used for sharpening the edge of some other cutting tools.

Metal Cutting Chisel

Metal Cutting Chisel: COLD chisels are used to cut through hard materials like metal or masonry. They are
often used to cut or shape metal when the stock is thick and where other tools, like a hacksaw or tin snips,
would be unsuitable. Chisels are made from high carbon steel or chrome –vanadium steel. It consists
following parts; 1.Head 2.Body or shank 3.Point or cutting edge.
Types of chisels: The most commonly used chisels are 1.Flatchisel 2.Cross cut chisel
3.Half-roundchise4.Diamond point chisel 5.Side chisel
1. Flat chisel: The flat chisel is typically used for applying detail, smoothing
surfaces and finished forms. It is usually held at 35-60° to the surface of stone
but like other chisels it can be used in various ways, carefully to smooth or
more roughly to shape quickly. This versatile cold chisel cuts, notches and
shapes brick, stone and other masonry. The flat chisel is forged and
machine ground for the perfect cutting angle and has a firm rubber grip with
protective hood for comfortable operation. Firm rubber grip with protective
hood.
2. crosscut (or cape) chisel: The cross cut chisel is used for cutting grooves
and slots. The blade narrows behind the cutting edge to provide clearance.
The round nose chisel is used for cutting semi-circular grooves for oil ways
in bearings. The crosscut (or cape) chisel is designed for those who want to
get into those tight areas. The design of the tool is such that the handle is
thinner than the cutting edge, which narrows on two sides until it reaches a
point. This chisel is designed not to get stuck where a flat chisel might. The
crosscut chisel can also be used in conjunction with a flat chisel on larger
surfaces. Firstly, the crosscut chisel is used to make a series of grooves. Then a flat chisel can be used to
remove what is left.

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3. Half-roundchise: The half-round chisel is a type of chisel which
has a rounded shape, although the top of the tool is actually flat. It
is designed to create grooves/channels with rounded bottoms. Such
grooves may be found in bearings, acting as “oil ways”. Sometimes
this chisel may be called a “round nose chisel”.

4. Diamond point chisel: The diamond point chisel has a diamond shaped tip
and is used to create grooves with a “V” shape, something which may be
desirable in many instances, including carving. It is also used in corners and
in the moving of incorrect marks left by a centre punch. Some diamond point
chisels may be better suited to use on brickwork.

5. Side chisel: It is almost similar to the flat chisel but the part
which performs the function of cutting is turned to one side. It
is turned at an angle and then forged. Its cutting angle is
generally at and forging angle at an angle.

DRILLING MACHINE: Introduction Drilling machine is one of the most important machine tools in a
workshop. It was designed to produce a cylindrical hole of required diameter and depth on metal
workpieces. Though holes can be made by different machine tools in a shop, drilling machine is designed
specifically to perform the operation of drilling and similar operations. Drilling can be done easily at a low
cost in a shorter period of time in a drilling machine. Drilling can be called as the operation of producing a
cylindrical hole of required diameter and depth by removing metal
by the rotating edges of a drill. The cutting tool known as drill is
fitted into the spindle of the drilling machine. A mark of
indentation is made at the required location with a centre punch.
The rotating drill is pressed at the location and is fed into the
work. The hole can be made up to a required depth.
Construction of a drilling machine The basic parts of a drilling
machine are a base, column, drill head and spindle. The base
made of cast iron may rest on a bench, pedestal or floor
depending upon the design. Larger and heavy duty machines are
grounded on the floor. The column is mounted vertically upon the
base. It is accurately machined and the table can be moved up and
down on it. The drill spindle, an electric motor and the mechanism
meant for driving the spindle at different speeds are mounted on
the top of
the column. Power is transmitted from the electric motor to the spindle through a flat belt or a ‘V’ belt.
Types of drilling machines: Drilling machines are manufactured in different types and sizes according to
the type of operation, amount of feed, depth of cut, spindle speeds, method of spindle movement and the
required accuracy. The different types of drilling machines are: 1. Portable drilling machine (or) Hand
drilling
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machine 2. Sensitive drilling machine (or) Bench drilling machine 3. Upright drilling machine 4. Radial
drilling machine 5. Gang drilling machine 6. Multiple spindle drilling machine 7. Deep hole drilling
machine.

Drill Bit: Drills are cutting tools used to remove material to create holes, almost always of circular cross-
section. Drills come in many sizes and shapes and can create different kinds of holes in many different
materials. In order to create holes drill bits are usually attached to a drill, which powers them
to cut through the workpiece, typically by rotation. The drill will grasp the upper end of a
bit called the shank in the chuck .
1. Flat drill Bit: Also known as flat wood drill bits, paddle bits or spade bits, Flat Drill Bits are
usually the quickest, easiest and cheapest solution for drilling larger diameter holes into
wood, though they can leave a rougher finish than alternative methods (and will create
splintered exit holes if driven straight through a piece
2. Straight fluted drill Bit: A Straight Flute Drill is designed to produce short chips in most drilling
applications. Good for drilling soft and ductile, non ferrous material, such as
copper and aluminium. Help to prevent "digging in " or grabbing the material and
to maintain proper hole diameter and sidewall surface finish. Hss straight shank
twist drill bits are used for processing tool parts. Throughout making use of, the
straight shank hss drill bit is clamped in the drill chuck and the taper shank drill bit is inserted in the taper
hole of the machine tool spindle or tailstock.
3. Twist drill Bit: Twist drill bits are used for drilling through anything from wood to plastic to metal
products, but not masonry and concrete products. However, their primary use is for drilling through metal.
Twist drill is made through high carbon steel. It has the taper or
parallel shank. The main parts of twist drill are body, shank,
neck, flutes, land, margin, body clearance and point It
consumes less power comparatively for same size and depth
of hole. 2)Cutting edge is remains for long life period,. 3)Flutes
produce easy passage for the chip to escape from the hole. 4)It
reduce the operation time, by producing high speed and feed
with required safety. a)Long Series Parallel Shank Twist
Drill. b)Taper Shank Twist Drill. Taper shank Core Drill . In drill.
For general-purpose twist drills the helix angle is about 32°.
The angle formed by the two sides of the tapering point is
118° for
standard drills, while for drilling tough metals, a flatter point with a 135° angle is recommended. Most drill
bits are made from high-speed steel, cobalt, or carbide. As you'll see below, a bit's material can influence
how effective it is at drilling through different kinds of metals.
Reamer
Reamer: A reamer is a type of rotary cutting tool used in metalworking. Precision reamers are designed to
enlarge the size of a previously formed hole by a small amount but with a high degree of accuracy to leave
smooth sides. The process of enlarging the hole is called reaming.

Hand Reamer: An adjustable hand reamer can cover a small range of sizes. They are
generally referenced by a latter which equates to a size range. The disposable blade slide
along a tapered groove. The blades are made of high carbon steel for long life and can
be adjusted by loosening one nut while tightening the other.
Machine Reamer: Machine Reamer, rotary cutting tool of cylindrical or conical
shape used for enlarging and finishing to accurate dimensions holes that have
been drilled, bored, or cored Machine reamers are used on machine tools such
as drill presses, lathes, and screw machines.

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Expanding Reamer: Expansion reamers are used to enlarge or finish an existing hole to a precise
tolerance or size. They have an adjustment screw that expands the size of the
cutting head so it can be reground to its original size. Simply twist the
top nut up to the desired size. And then slide the blades up to the nut.
The last step is to twist the bottom nut to meet the bottom blades.
expansion reamer can be adjusted only a small amount by moving a
tapered internal plug. adjustable reamer have a larger range of
adjustment, from 1/32 in on small diameters to 5/16 in on large
reamers. adjustable reamers have removable blades.
Mechanical Internal Threading Tap
Taps: Taps are used for cutting or producing internal threads of either left or right hand kind in nuts or
pre-drilled holes. Taps are threaded externally. The threads being cut by grinding to give a high class finish.
There are 3 main types of taps to be familiar with Taper, Plug, and Bottoming tap.
The
Taper tap can be identified by the visible and pronounced tapering of the cutting edges. This provides a
very gradual and less aggressive cutting action. The distinct feature of a taper tap is the 8 to 10 threads that
taper from the tip to the full cutting force diameter. A taper tap is most often used
as a starter tap for difficult blind holes. The gentle taper of the cutting edge
is the most forgiving when tapping by hand and allows for a straight hole to
be cut in especially hard materials. A taper tap is rarely the final tap used
before completing a project however, as the taper leaves incomplete
threads cut at the bottom of a blind hole.
Plug tap has a less pronounced taper to the cutting edges. This gives the
plug tap a gradual cutting action that is less aggressive than that of the
bottoming tap but more aggressive than a taper tap. Typically, the plug tap
will have 3 to 5 tapered threads before the full cutting diameter is
engaged. Plug taps are great when used with through-holes, as they are
almost as easy as taper taps to start, but also offer a more complete set of
threads. The third style is Bottoming tap. Bottoming taps have 1 to 2
tapered cutting edges before the full cutting force is engaged. Though this
tap is extremely hard
to start threads with, it is capable of cutting threads all of the way to the bottom of a blind hole. Bottoming
taps are best used after a taper or plug tap has been used to cut the initial thread.

Tap Wrench: A tap wrench is a hand tool used to turn taps or other small tools, such as
hand reamers and screw extractors. Tap wrenches are hand tools which are used to turn
small tools with a square on the shank like taps, drills, hand reamers and screw
extractors in manual applications. There are two main types of tap wrenches: Double-ended
adjustable wrenches, also known as bar wrenches, and T-handle wrenches. Double-
ended adjustable wrenches are used with larger taps where there is room to turn a larger
wrench.

Mechanical External Threading DIE

Dies: Threading dies are used to form or cut a male thread on the outside of rods or bars. Threading dies
provide precision in cutting and extend the life of a die by reducing wear. Taps and dies are the tools used
for cutting threads. Hand threading dies are generally of two types. ROUND dies are designed to fit in a T-
handle while HEX DIE NUTS can be used with regular hand tools. (Wrenches and sockets.) Round dies are
usually the choice for cutting new threads whereas1hex die nuts are commonly used as a chaser to repair
existing threads.
1. Solid die: DIE THREADING is a machining process for cutting external threads in
cylindrical or tapered surfaces by the use of solid or self-opening dies. Die threading is a
slower method of producing external threads than thread rolling, but it is faster than
single- point threading in a lathe.

2. Adjustable split die: Round Adjustable Dies are designed for cutting external screw
threads, either by hand, using a die stock or by machine, using a floating die holder. They
also can be used to cut smaller or larger than the factory setting by turning the adjusting
screw in or out. The dies are manufactured with a 2-3 thread chamfer on front face and a 1
- 1 1/2 thread chamfer on the rear.
3. Adjustable Screw-Plate die: This adjustment is mainly to allow a lighter first cut
when threading, followed by a second cut, when the outer screws are tightened. It is
worth noting: If dies are to be used on brass, do not use them on steel.

Striking Tools
(a) Ball Pin Hammer- Besides for peening (surface hardening by impact),
the ball-peen hammer is useful for many tasks, such as striking punches
and chisels (usually performed with the flat face of the hammer). The
peening face is useful for rounding off edges of metal pins and fasteners,
such as rivets.

(b) Warrington Hammer-A Warrington hammer is made specifically for

cabinetmaking. The cross peen is used to start brads or finishing nails without
the risk of damage to fingers. The round head, with the slightly belled face,
lets you drive nails flush without marring surrounding wood.

(c) Claw Hammer-A claw hammer is a tool primarily used for driving
nails into, or pulling nails from, some other object. Generally, a claw
hammer is associated with woodworking but is not limited to use with
wood products. It is not suitable for heavy hammering on metal surfaces
(such as in machining work), as the steel of its head is somewhat brittle;
the ball-peen hammer is more suitable for such metalwork.
(d) Mallet- A mallet is a block on a handle, which is usually used for driving chisels. The head on a rubber
mallet is made of rubber. These types of hammers deliver softer impact than
hammers with metal heads. They are essential if your work needs to be free
of impact marks. Metal hammer faces can damage wood surfaces or the
ends of chisels, and a wooden mallet will not mar either wood surfaces or
tools. A
wooden mallet also makes it easier to control a chisel, since it strikes with less force than a metal hammer.
Marking & Measuring Instruments
1.Steel Rule.2.Scriber 3. Jenny caliper 4. Angle plate 5.Centre Punch 6. Surface plate 7.divider 8. Scribing
block 9.V-block 10. Try square 11. Straight edge 12.Inside Caliper 13. Outside Caliper 14. Vernier
Caliper15.Vernier Depth Gauge 16.Vernier Hight Gauge 17.Gear Tooth Vernier 18.Out Side Micrometer
19.In Side Micrometer 20.Depth Micrometer.

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1. Steel Rule: Steel rule -The steel rule is a basic measuring tool. When used
correctly, a good steel rule is a surprisingly accurate measuring device. Steel rules
come in many sizes and formats. Basic 6" and 12" steel rules come in flexible and
rigid forms. Flexible rules are usually ½" wide and 1/64" thick. Starrett calls flexible
rules “semi- flexible.” Rigid rules are usually ¾" wide and 3/64" thick. Starrett calls
rigid rules “spring-tempered.
2. Scriber: A scriber is a hand tool used in metal work to mark lines on
workpieces, prior to machining. The process of using a scriber is called scribing
and is just part of the process of marking out. It is used by dragging the point
over the surface of the workpiece to leave a shallow scratch on its surface.

3. Jenny Caliper or Odd Leg Caliper: Jenny calipers are sometimes called
odd leg calipers, oddleg jennys or hermaphrodite calipers. A jenny caliper
works in a similar way to a compass. One end is set in a fixed location, and
the other is used to scribe or measure.They are used to draw a line a set
distance from the edge of a part but are also useful for locating the centre
of a workpiece.Jenny calipers are primarily used with parts made of metals
such as steel, but can also be used with glass and hard plastics.Oddleg
calipers are a cross between a divider and an outside caliper, as they have
one leg of each of these tools.
4. Angle Plate: An angle plate is a work holding device used as a
fixture in metalworking. Angle plates are used to hold workpieces
square to the table during marking out operations Angle plates
are made from high quality material (generally spheroidal cast iron)
that has been stabilized to prevent further movement or distortion.
Angle plates are widely used for inspection purposes. Surface of
angle plates are scraped to give them a smooth finish and flatness.
5. Centre Punch: A hand punch consisting of a short steel bar with a hardened
conical point at one end used for marking the centers of holes to be drilled.
Centre Punches are ground to a strong point with an included angle of 90
degrees by holding them Tangentially to a Tool Grinder and rotating them.
6. Surface Plate: A surface plate is a solid, flat plate used as the main horizontal reference plane for
precision inspection, marking out (layout), and tooling setup. The surface plate is often used as the
baseline for all measurements to a workpiece, therefore one primary surface
is finished extremely flat with tolerances below 11.5 m.m or
0.0115 mm per 2960 mm for a grade 0 plate. Surface plates are a
common tool in the manufacturing industry and are often fitted
with mounting points so that it can be an integrated structural
element of
a machine such as a coordinate-measuring machine, precision optical assembly, or other high precision
scientific & industrial machine. Plates are typically square or rectangular, although they may be cut to any
shape.
7. Divider: A compass, often large, for scribing arcs and circles, with an arced wing that helps to steady the
legs in use, and with a locking screw on the arc to hold the legs firmly in position.
carpenter's compass having a metal arc and binding screw for setting at the desired
degree of opening. instrument for measuring, transferring, or marking off distances,
consisting of two straight adjustable legs hinged together and ending in sharp
points. It is used principally in drafting for the accurate transfer of dimensions from
a measuring scale and in machine shops for scribing lines on surfaces, usually
machined, with dimensions taken from a ruler. A compass is essentially a divider in
1
which one of the points has been replaced by a pencil or other marking device. The compass is useful for
scribing circles or arcs of circles; it usually includes a scale to indicate the radius of the circle being scribed.
8.Scribing Block: Definitions of scribing block. gauge consisting of a
scriber mounted on an adjustable stand; used to test the accuracy of
plane surfaces. synonyms: surface gage, surface gauge. type of: gage,
gauge. a measuring instrument for measuring and indicating a quantity
such as the thickness of wire or the amount of rain etc. A scriber is a
hand tool used in metal work to mark lines on workpieces, prior to
machining. The process of using a scriber is called scribing and is just
part of the process of marking out.
9.V-Block: V-Blocks are precision metalworking jigs typically used to hold round metal
rods or pipes for performing drilling or milling operations. They consist of a rectangular
steel or cast iron block with a 120 degree channel rotated 45-degrees from the sides,
forming a V-shaped channel in the top. Steel V-Blocks are made from hardened and
ground alloy steel having hardness 55-60 HRC generally conforming to IS-2949-1992
available in different Grades of accuracies i.e. Grade-0, Grade-1 and Grade-2 accuracy
limits, having included Angle 90º± 5'.

10. Try Square:The main purpose of a square is to ensure that components are perpendicular, or at right
angles to each other. In addition, most squares serve as measurement
rulers marked in inches, fractional inches, and sometimes in
centimeters and millimeters. Large framing squares, also called
carpenter squares, are used in building cabinets and homes. Speed
squares, sometimes referred to as try squares, are smaller and include
additional angles for measurement. Combination squares have a ruler
blade with an adjustable sliding stock to measure 90-degree and 45-
degree angles. Combination squares include a built-in bubble level that is useful for levelling small
components such as picture frames.
11. Straight Edge: A straightedge or straight edge is a tool used for
drawing straight lines, or checking their straightness. If it has equally
spaced markings along its length, it is usually called a ruler. True
straightness can in some cases be checked by using a laser line level as an
optical straightedge: it can illuminate an accurately straight line on a flat
surface such as the edge of a plank or shelf.
12.Inside Caliper: The inside calipers are used to measure the internal size of an object. Inside Caliper
requires manual adjustment prior to fitting. Fine setting of this caliper type is
performed by tapping the caliper legs lightly on a handy surface until they
will almost pass over the object. A light push against the resistance of the
central pivot screw then spreads the legs to the correct dimension and
provides the required, consistent feel that ensures a repeatable
measurement. The lower
caliper in the image has an adjusting screw that permits it to be carefully adjusted without removal of the
tool from the workpiece.
13. Outside Caliper: Outside calipers are used to measure the external size of an object.
The same observations and technique apply to this type of caliper, as for the above
inside caliper. With some understanding of their limitations and usage, these
instruments can provide a high degree of accuracy and repeatability. They are especially
useful when measuring over very large distances; consider if the calipers are used to
measure a large diameter pipe. A vernier caliper does not have the depth capacity to straddle
this large diameter while at the same time reach the outermost points of the pipe's diameter.
They are made from high carbon steel. 1
14. Vernier Caliper: Vernier calipers have both a fixed main scale and a moving vernier scale. The main
scale is graduated in either millimetres or tenths of an inch. The vernier scale allows much more precise
readings to be taken (usually to the nearest 0.02mm or 0.001 inch) in comparison to a standard ruler
(which only measures to the nearest 1mm or 0.25 inch).Vernier calipers have both a fixed main scale and a
moving vernier scale.The main scale is graduated in either millimetres or tenths of an inch. The vernier
scale allows much more precise readings to be taken (usually to the nearest 0.02mm or 0.001 inch) in
comparison to a standard ruler (which only
measures to the nearest 1mm
or 0.25 inch). he range
(sometimes called maximum
capacity) of a vernier caliper is
the difference between the
largest value and the smallest
value that the caliper can
measure. It is equal to the
length of the main scale. Most
vernier calipers have a range of
6 inches (300mm), although calipers with smaller and larger ranges are also available. The resolution (or
vernier reading) of a vernier caliper is the smallest distance that the caliper can measure. The resolution of
imperial vernier calipers is usually 0.001 in, whereas the resolution of metric calipers is either 0.05mm or
0.02mm. A caliper’s resolution is indicated at the end of the vernier scale.The resolution of imperial vernier
calipers is usually 0.001 in, whereas the resolution of metric calipers is either 0.05mm or 0.02mm.A
caliper’s resolution is indicated at the end of the vernier scale.
15.Vernier Depth Gauge: Vernier depth gauge is used for measuring the depth of holes, recesses and
distances from a plane surface to a projection. Here the graduated
scale is slide through the base and vernier scale remains fixed. ...
The depth gauge is made precisely so that the beam is
perpendicular to the base in both directions. . The resolution of
imperial vernier depth gauge is usually 0.001 in, whereas the
resolution of metric calipers is either 0.05mm or 0.02mm. A
caliper’s resolution is indicated at the end of the vernier
scale.The resolution of imperial vernier calipers is usually 0.001
in, whereas
the resolution of metric calipers is either 0.05mm or 0.02mm.A caliper’s resolution is indicated at the end
of the vernier scale.
16.Vernier Hight Gauge: These measuring tools are used in metalworking or metrology to either set or
measure vertical distances; the pointer is sharpened to allow it to act
as a scriber and assist in marking out work pieces.Devices similar in
concept, with lower resolutions, are used in health care settings
(health clinics, surgeries) to find the height of people, in which
context they are called stadiometers.Height gauges may also be used
to measure the height of an object by using the underside of the
scriber as the datum. The datum may be permanently fixed or the
height gauge may have provision to adjust the scale, this is done by
sliding the scale vertically along the body of the height gauge by
turning a fine feed screw at the top of the gauge; then with the
scriber set to the same level as the base, the scale can be matched to
it. This adjustment allows different scribers or probes to be used, as
well as adjusting for any errors in a damaged or resharpened probe.
.Vernier Hight Gauge is usually 0.001 in, whereas the resolution of
metric calipers is either 0.05mm or 0.02mm. A caliper’s resolution is
indicated at the end of the
vernier scale.The resolution of imperial vernier calipers is usually 0.001 in, whereas the resolution of metric
1
calipers is either 0.05mm or 0.02mm.A caliper’s resolution is indicated at the end of the vernier scale.
17.Gear Tooth Vernier: A vernier gear tooth caliper as shown in the figure consists of two vernier
perpendicular to each other. It is used for measuring the chordal thickness of a gear tooth at the pitch
circle of gear. The horizontal vernier caliper is used for measuring
the tooth thickness of a gear. The working depth is the
sum of the addendums of two mating gears hole depth
the depth of a tooth space equal to the addendum plus
the D denim. Or the depth to which the tooth is cut. It is
easy to check the concentricity of the gear by mounting
the gear between centers and measuring the variation in
height of a roller placed between the successive teeth. Is
usually 0.001
in, whereas the resolution of metric calipers is either 0.05mm or 0.02mm. A caliper’s resolution is indicated
at the end of the vernier scale.The resolution of imperial vernier calipers is usually 0.001 in, whereas the
resolution of metric calipers is either 0.05mm or 0.02mm.A caliper’s resolution is indicated at the end of
the vernier scale.
18.Out Side Micrometer: Outside Micrometers are used for measuring the thickness or outside diameter
of small parts. They are industry standard measuring tools because of their high accuracy/resolution and
ease of use. To ensure an accurate measurement, the measuring faces of a micrometer must be both flat
and
parallel. A micrometer, sometimes
known as a micrometer screw gauge, is
a device incorporating a calibrated screw
widely used for accurate measurement
of components in mechanical
engineering and machining as well as
most mechanical trades, along with
other metrological instruments such as
dial, vernier, and digital calipers. 0.01
mm. Explanation:
Least count of metric micrometer is 0.01
mm. Micrometers typically have a
measuring range of 25mm and 1 inch. For instance, metric versions measure 0-25mm, 25-50mm, 50-75mm
etc, and imperial versions measure 0-1 inches, 1-2 inches, 2-3 inches etc.
19.In Side Micrometer: Inside micrometers and sets are used to measure the inside diameters and internal
dimensions of holes, bores, and other openings. 3-point inside micrometers have a gauge head with three
contact points that creates a self-
centering measurement. Outside
micrometers look like a clamp — a
moving spindle comes together with a
fixed “anvil” to measure the thickness or
diameter of a part. Digital caliper-jaw
micrometers are used to measure the
inside dimensions of holes, tubes, pipes,
or grooves, and have jaws that expand
and contract. The thimble scale can be
read directly to 0.01mm, as shown
above,
but may also be estimated to 0.001mm when the lines are nearly coincident because the line thickness is
1/5 of the spacing between them. Micrometers typically have a measuring range of 25mm and 1 inch. For
instance, metric versions measure 0-25mm, 25-50mm, 1 50-75mm etc, and imperial versions measure 0-1
inches, 1-2 inches, 2-3 inches etc.
20.Depth Micrometer: The base squarely on the block. Then turn the spindle until the rod touches the
plate then to measure carefully. Position the depth mic with the rod in the hole to be measured. The depth
micrometer is an accurate and reliable tool to use for depth measurement (Figure 1). The depths of holes,
slots, shoulders, and
projections can be measured
accurately to within 0.001 of
an inch. When using a depth
micrometer, two points must
be kept in mind. requires skill
in handling and in reading the
results. dedicated gage can
not be used for other
purposes.If you do find that
the depth micrometer doesn't
zero out change the length of
the rod via its adjusting nut.
Clamp the
rod in soft jaws in a small vise. So it won't bend when you adjust the length. specifies requirements for
spindle type S and rod type R depth micrometers with a micrometer traverse of 25 mm or 1 in, covering
measuring capacities from 0 to 300 mm, or 1 in to 12 in. BS 6468 gives normative references and terms and
definitions. Design features, accuracy, amd marking are also specified.