MAKE EVERY MEAL SPECIAL

JUNE 2023

GRILLED PRAWN
CAESAR WITH
BASIL DRESSING

+
GREEN GODDESS
FALAFEL
SPICED ROAST
FETA WITH
TOMATO SALAD GBP £5.99

EARL GREY
CAN $14.50 US $13.50 AUS $14.99

AND YOGURT
MADELEINES

EFFORTLESS!
INSTANT PARTY CANAPÉS

+ LET’S DO BRUNCH! WE FIND THE BEST IN THE UK + TANDOORI RECIPES TO MAKE AT HOME
+ DISCOVER THE SUN-SOAKED FLAVOURS OF MALTA + SUMMER SPRITZES FOR SUNNY DAYS
Welcome
Purists will insist that you can’t improve on the original but
I disagree. If Wikipedia is to be believed, the first recipe for
caesar salad, invented by chef Caesar Cardini in 1924, didn’t
even contain anchovies. What? To my mind, they give the
dressing that distinctive, salty kick that – along with lettuce,
parmesan, garlicky croutons – makes it unmistakeably caesar.
So no apologies from me for our grilled prawn version with COOK THE COVER
basil dressing which is just the kind of light lunch or dinner Find the recipe on page 20
I want to eat as we head into summer. Basil is one of the This seafood twist on a classic caesar salad
easiest herbs to grow and, if you don’t over-water, keep the from our senior food editor Nadine Brown
pots in a sunny spot and pinch away the new leaves you want is packed with summery flavour. Make it,
snap it, share it: post your photos on our
to use to encourage more growth, the plants can last for socials and we’ll repost the best.
months. (And I love my pot of Greek basil, whose tiny, pungent
leaves add a cheffy touch and peppery kick to lots of
summery recipes, including Rosie Birkett’s spiced roast feta,
the fatteh on p36 or just to add an extra element to thin slices
The past few years
of pineapple – instant dessert). have been tough
It’s also time to make the most of sunny days by booking a on the hospitality
table on outdoor terraces: we’re celebrating brunch this month, industry, and
a meal designed with languor in mind. Bloody mary, anyone? our beloved pubs
have been hit
particularly hard.
Our Love Your Local
campaign champions these cherished
spaces by highlighting places we love
and sharing recipes from them in the
magazine and online. We’d love to hear
about your favourites, too – tag us in
your social posts when you’re having
a pie or pint and share using the
Lulu Grimes, managing editor hashtag #Oloveyourlocal. Visit
Omagazine.com/love-your-local to
@Omagazine @lulugrimes find all of our pub content including
podcasts, pub guides, reader recs,
recipes and advice on how you can
support your local.

This month I’m…

listening to eating reading
Radio 4’s Screenshot episode on Italianavera puttanesca sauce Substack Notes
restaurants in film Because effortless is my mantra most The new place to engage in
With input from Boiling Point’s Philip nights of the week. On pasta, as a conversations about food and get
Barantini and restaurant critic Jimi pizza base sauce or with some chunks recommendations on newsletters to
Famurewa as well as Roxana Hadadi, of rotisserie chicken or fat prawns subscribe to and follow, you’ll find
this reminded me to go back and stirred through. £5.35/500g, ocado.com contributor Rosie Birkett on there.
rewatch several classics, including The Department of Salad is one of
everyone’s favourite, Ratatouille. my subscriptions – if you think there’s
no depth to the subject of salad then
go and take a look. This month I’m
perfecting my ‘cold plates’ by investing
in an ice cream scoop. substack.com

HOW TO General enquiries: Oweb@immediate.co.uk. For subscription

CONTACT US queries please call 03330 162 127 or visit buysubscriptions.com/contact

June 2023 Omagazine.com 3

JUNE
contents
inspiration 70 Cook like a local Immerse yourself in the
sunshine flavours of Malta.
7 What’s new for June Sabor’s rhubarb tartaleta,
this month’s must-book restaurants and the best 76 10 things you need to know about
kettles for your budget. Emilia-Romagna Filippo La Gattuta shares his
favourite producers from this region of Italy.

cook unwind
14
Smart ingredients and clever shortcuts make our 80 Weekend menu An elevated, seasonal menu
impressive-looking menu a cinch. from The Parakeet pub in north London.

19 Cook with the season Get the most out of 84 Kitchens to covet Baker and cookbook author
basil, courgettes, fennel and carrots. Edd Kimber welcomes us into his smartly
designed north-east London kitchen.
28 Indian summer Recreate the flavours of a
tandoor with Maunika Gowardhan’s recipes. 90 Bolthole Escape to the charming Georgian
Queensberry Hotel in Bath.
36 Three ways with yogurt Sweet or sour yogurt
brings extra depth to dishes. 92 Kitchen therapy with Rosie Birkett
Tomatoes are the star of Rosie’s vibrant feta salad.
42 Eat well everyday Take inspiration from these
veg-packed, low-waste meals. 97 Show off Recreate contemporary Mexican
restaurant Zapote’s delicate sea bass aguachile.
47 Cook a classic Make this easy rocky road and
pack for summer picnics.
& don’t miss
discover
52

56
Signature dish A fragrant buffalo mozzarella
dish from Updown in Deal, Kent.

Out to brunch Discovering the very best relaxed

18

78
Subscribe today Sign up and enjoy five issues
for just £5.

Reader offer Book an unforgettable holiday

to India or Egypt.
24
brunch menus in the business. 86 Reader offer Save 25% on full-size summer
seasonings and sauces from Angus & Oink.
62 Pro vs punter Critic Tony Naylor and reader
Carolyn Ross give their verdicts on new 89 Coming next month
Manchester bistro Higher Ground. A sneak peek at our July issue.

64 Need to know Gurdeep Loyal shares his apricot

orange and raspberry cake with mastic, and
explores the foodie Suffolk coast.

66 The Measure Switch up your spritzes, make a

mezcal mule and try a new tequila.

69 Wine All you need to know about buying the

best glassware.

4 June 2023 Omagazine.com

38
 recipe index
Starters, snacks, Vegetables
24 Caramelised fennel pasta with a chilli citrus crumb
drinks and sides 72 Froġa tat-tarja (vermicelli and parmesan pie)
82 Asparagus, nettles and almond
46 Get your greens soup
20 Basil, taleggio and pickled walnut grilled cheese
44 Green goddess falafel
53 Buffalo mozzarella with peas and basil
35 Green peppers stuffed with spicy potatoes, chilli and
36 Crispy pitta and chickpea fatteh
dried mango
27 Crunchy courgette fries
44 One-pot veggie tagine with jewelled bulgur wheat
15 Gildas
93 Spiced roast feta with tomato salad
66 Mezcal mule
45 Sweet potato, kale and chickpea salad with
26 Roast carrots with carrot top pesto and goat’s cheese
creamy tahini dressing
69 Rosé vermouth
32 Whole roasted cauliflower in a creamy coconut and
97 Sea bass aguachile
chilli sauce
27 Strawberry basil vodka
46 Zesty lemon linguine with kale cashew pesto
54 Vodka martini with a smoked eel gilda

Mains Breakfast, brunch,

Birds baking and puddings
28 Saffron-spiced whole roast chicken 64 Apricot, orange and raspberry cake with mastic
16 Schnitzel with sweet-sour-crunchy slaw fries 27 Carrot cake snack balls
83 Chocolate torte
Fish 22 Courgette, lime and pistachio cake
20 Prawn caesar salad 39 Doogh ice lollies
34 Tandoori masala fish 38 Earl grey and yogurt madeleines
72 Maltese coffee granita and whipped ricotta
Meat 9 Rhubarb tartaleta
71 Bragioli (beef olives) 47 Rocky road
30 Crispy fried flatbread stuffed with spicy lamb, 16 Tres leches pudding
chilli and coriander

15
82 Lamb chop, broad beans and wild garlic
27 Spiced pork chops with fennel pickle

bringing you the best

Maunika Ben Allen Harriet
Gowardhan Try Ben’s elevated, Porterfield
The cookbook seasonal pub food Enjoy veg-packed
author shares from The Parakeet meals every day of the
traditional tandoor in north London week with Harriet’s
recipes (p28). (p80). dishes (p42).

Easy on the eye and simple to make, thanks to shop-bought ingredients and no fiddly techniques. These recipes can
be made ahead and require only 30 minutes or fewer of prep – they’re go-to ideas for entertaining special guests.

June 2023 Omagazine.com 5

 inspiration

June This month’s essential restaurant

INSPIRATION bookings, must-have goodies for
your kitchen shelf, and a sublime
rhubarb tartaleta from acclaimed
Spanish restaurant Sabor

Trendspotting
DEEP-FRIED ARTICHOKES
Crisp, flower-like fried artichokes are
hitting plates in increasing numbers.
A traditional Roman dish, carciofi alla
giudia or Jewish-style artichokes are a
common sight in Rome, the choke-less
and less thorny Cimaroli or Mammole
variety is fried to a deep bronze and
eaten whole. Find them gracing the
menus of Italian restaurants such as
Ombra and Manteca or, as shown here,
at Jun Tanaka’s The Ninth, brined and
fried until super crisp, served with three-
cornered leek aïoli. @theninthlondon

June 2023 Omagazine.com 7

 make a reservation
3 MUST-VISIT RESTAURANTS
Just opened
TOBA, ST JAMES’S
MARKET, LONDON
Chef Pino Edward Sinaga has
gained a loyal following at his
Camden street food spot, Pino’s
Warung. As of February, guests
can try blackened chicken satay
SWAN NORDIC JUG KETTLE with homemade peanut sauce,
This slimline and elegant kettle boasts a speedy boil time of under fragrant beef rendang blanketed
two and a half minutes. In addition to its design and price, we in crispy shallots, and sides
loved its user-friendly features, including the wood-effect rubber including yellow rice and punchy
handle that’s easy to grip. Robert Dyas (£45.99) house sambals in this more
elegant setting in central
London. tobalondon.co.uk

BUDGET Revisiting

RESTAURANT PHOTOGRAPHS: JOHN CAREY, STEPHEN LISTER PHOTOGRAPHY. RECIPE: NIEVES BARRAGÁN AND JOSÉ ETURA. RECIPE PHOTOGRAPH: MARCUS COBDEN
VS HERON, LEITH, EDINBURGH
Sam Yorke and Tomás Gormley
were the youngest Michelin star

BLOWOUT winners this year for their farm-

to-table restaurant with friendly
service, and a shore view. The
Buy the best, whatever your budget pair have a respect for carefully
– this month, kettles sourced local ingredients,
creating dishes such as lobster
claw on buttery crushed potato
terrine, creamy cod brandade
studded with plump mussels
and lamb loin with a vivid
green salsa verde. heron.scot

Coming soon
MOUNTAIN, SOHO, LONDON
Tomos Parry and the team behind
Brat will open a new wood grill
and wine bar later this month,
in a celebration of Spain’s
coastal and mountain cooking.
Pair Mallorcan sobrasada with
KITCHENAID ARTISAN 1.5-LITRE
vermouth on tap or a Valencian
VARIABLE TEMPERATURE KETTLE citrus spritz before the likes of
With its glossy finish and statement thermometer, this whole pink bream a la plancha
kettle offers both style and practicality. Its temperature select and Anglesey lobster cooked
lever is a particularly useful feature if you’re into your speciality Menorcan caldereta style in
teas that don’t need boiling water. KitchenAid (£199) clay pots with tomatoes,
sweet peppers and almonds.
mountainbeakstreet.com
For more reviews go to
Omagazine.com

8 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 inspiration

Sabor’s rhubarb tartaleta

SERVES 4 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS
CHILLING | COOK 40 MINS | EASY
CRAVING
Vibrant, tart rhubarb gives a sharp ping of flavour to round off a meal
500ml blood orange juice or orange juice of rich flavours and textures. A chef’s favourite, rhubarb tarts come in a
1 tbsp caster sugar plethora of shapes and textures, and suit many cuisines. This version with
25ml brandy shatteringly crisp pastry and a dreamy, light cream filling can be found at
1 cinnamon stick
1 vanilla pod
Nieves Barragán and José Etura’s restaurant Sabor. saborrestaurants.co.uk
1 star anise
350g rhubarb, cut into 5cm lengths
150g puff pastry
butter, for the tin
MASCARPONE MOUSSE
1 egg yolk
25g caster sugar
100ml double cream
150g mascarpone
20ml whisky, to taste

1 Put the orange juice, sugar, brandy,

cinnamon, vanilla and star anise into a
pan, bring to the boil, then simmer until
reduced by half. Add the rhubarb and
continue to cook for 2-3 mins or until soft
but still firm enough to hold their shape.
Remove from the heat and set aside to
cool, then remove the rhubarb from the
juice with a slotted spoon.
2 To make the mousse, whisk together the
egg yolk and sugar until pale and creamy,
then add the cream and whisk until it
forms soft peaks. Fold in the mascarpone
and whisky, then chill to set slightly.
3 Heat the oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 3.
Cut the pastry into four and then roll out
each piece on a floured worksurface to
make four thin sheets. Trim each sheet to
a circle slightly larger than a 10cm wide,
2cm high tart tin. Brush the butter over
four tart tins and put in each sheet,
tucking in around the edges, and trimming
any excess pastry. Chill for 30 mins. Prick
the bases with a fork, line and fill with
baking beans and bake for 20-30 mins
or until golden. Remove the beans and
then remove the tarts carefully from the
tins to cool.
4 Fill the tarts with the mascarpone
mousse and top with the rhubarb pieces
and a little of the orange sauce. Dust
with some sugar, if you like.

PER SERVING 573 kcals | fat 42.5G

saturates 25.2G | carbs 36.1G | sugars 24.6G
fibre 2.7G | protein 6.9G | salt 0.4G
WHAT ARE
YOU CRAVING?
Share your favourite
eats by email at
Oweb@immediate.co.uk
and on social media using
#Ocraving.

June 2023 Omagazine.com 9

 THE INDIE
BARN SPICES
The Indie Barn
uses only indigenous
spices, like these
Sri Lankan
cinnamon quills,
and aims to support
its community of
small producers
while delivering top-
quality organic and
ethically sourced
spices. From £3.99,
theindiebarn.com

WHITSTABLE HARBOUR GIN

This small-batch gin is created in
traditional copper stills and infused with
marine plants such as sea buckthorn and
samphire native to Whitstable. £38.50
(70cl), whitstableharbourgin.co.uk
NONNA TONDA PASTA
Fresh pasta and sauces are made each morning before being sent out,
with a different choice each week, and it’s free delivery, too. We loved
the silky parcels of ravioli and the delicate crab tagliolini. From £5.50
per person, nonnatonda.co.uk KITCHEN
O GREEK HAMPER
This hamper showcases
the best of Greek produce
including stuffed Kalamata
olives, smoky tapenade and
premium extra-virgin olive
oil. £59 (including delivery),
shop.Omagazine.com This month’s must-buy
food, drink and homewares
KIND TOMATO BAG
Each of these strong,
eco-friendly bags recycles
six old plastic bottles
– we love the bright
tomato design and
the way it folds up into
a small pouch to tuck
away when not needed.
£11, kindbag.co
CAROLINE’S PESTO
These pestos come in both classic and
seasonal (wild garlic, watercress) varieties but
all are made by hand and beautifully balanced
FUNGTN with quality ingredients. £5.95 (150g),
SHIITAKE thevegboxcompany.co.uk
DARK LAGER
Alcohol-free CYPRESSA
craft beer meets
TOMATO AND
adaptogenic
mushrooms in FETA TAPENADE
this delicious This rich mixture
0.5% ABV drink of Kalamata olives,
– think stout sun-dried tomato
flavours but with and feta is perfect
a fresher, lighter on flatbread or
mouthfeel. pizza, or tossed
£33.60 (12 x through hot pasta.
330ml cans), £2.50, Co-op
fungtn.com

10 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook
A celebratory make-ahead meal for
fuss-free entertaining, recreate the
glorious flavours of a traditional
tandoor at home, and three clever
ways with yogurt, including pretty
Persian-style ice lollies
PHOTOGRAPH: JONATHAN GREGSON. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: HANNAH WILKINSON. FOOD STYLING: PHIL MUNDY

June 2023 Omagazine.com 13

 Create a menu that looks impressive but is a cinch
to make using smart ingredients and shortcuts

On the menu
Gildas

Schnitzel with sweet-sour-

crunchy slaw fries

Tres leches pudding

14 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook effortless

Easy on the eye and simple to make, thanks

to shop-bought ingredients and no fiddly
techniques. These recipes can be made ahead
or require 30 minutes or fewer of prep – they’re
go-to ideas for entertaining special guests.

Gildas traditionally use salted

anchovies but we’ve used
marinated ones for a sharper
flavour. By all means used
salted anchovies if you prefer.

Gildas
You could double down on the anchovy by using olives stuffed with anchovies,
if you like.

SERVES 3 | PREP 10 MINS | EASY | GF

Fold one of nine Guindilla peppers onto a wooden skewer, fold a white
marinated anchovy fillet in the same way and thread it on top of the pepper,
and finish with a fat olive. Repeat with another eight peppers, anchovies and
olives. Arrange on a plate and serve with glasses of chilled vermouth (garnish
red vermouth with an orange slice, if you like) and a bowl of smoked almonds.

PER SERVING 44 kcals | fat 3.2G

RECIPES: LULU GRIMES. PHOTOGRAPHS: JONATHAN GREGSON. SHOOT DIRECTOR:

saturates 0.6G | carbs 0.9G | sugars 0.6G

GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: HANNAH WILKINSON. FOOD STYLING: PHIL MUNDY

fibre 0.2G | protein 2.8G | salt 3.1G

tip
Serve Martini Rosso or red vermouth with the anchovy skewers – this lushly fruity and
spicy drink is delicious sipped neat over ice with a slice of citrus, or with two to three
measures of prosecco and one measure of soda to make a spritz. Make it up in a jug if
you want to pour several at once.

June 2023 Omagazine.com 15

 Schnitzel with sweet-sour-crunchy slaw fries
SERVES 3 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY

Tip 700g of oven fries onto an oven tray or into an air fryer.
Cook following pack instructions (about 15 mins on the
oven, 8-15 mins in an air fryer depending on which model
you have). Finely slice a small red pepper, 1/3 of a halved
cucumber and 2 spring onions, tip into a bowl, add a
finely shredded carrot (a peeler that shreds is useful for
this), along with 6 chopped slices of (or one whole) pickle
(we used bread and butter pickles). Add the juice of a lime,
1 tbsp of fish sauce, 2 tsp of white wine vinegar, 2-3 tsp
of soft light brown sugar and ½ tbsp of chilli oil along
with a small bunch of chopped coriander and a small
bunch of chopped mint. Heat a little oil in a large frying pan
and fry 3 schnitzels in two batches until golden brown
– they should only need 2-4 mins on each side if they are
thin (cook them in the oven with the fries at 180C/fan 160C/
gas 4 if you prefer). Keep the first batch warm while you
cook the second. Tip the fries onto a platter, slice the
schnitzel and lay this on top, then heap the salad and any
dressing over the schnitzel.

PER SERVING 788 kcals | fat 38.1G

saturates 10.7G | carbs 82.8G | sugars 14G
fibre 10.5G | protein 23.2G | salt 3.6G

tip
You can buy rose veal schnitzel in butchers, or fresh or frozen
chicken or turkey schnitzels in some supermarkets. Use what
you like best.

Tres leches pudding

Use a sponge mixture such as a victoria sponge, not a very sweet American-style
vanilla sponge. This recipe will give you leftovers, which you can cut into pieces and
freeze – defrost the squares to use as a very decadent trifle base. If you are very short
of time, use slices of bought madeira cake and skip the baking part of this.

SERVES 3 WITH LEFTOVERS | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 40 MINS | EASY

Make up a sponge cake mixture following the pack instructions (usually

by adding 3 eggs and some milk and butter or oil), spoon into a lined and buttered
loaf tin and bake at 180C/160C fan/gas 4 for 30-40 mins or until risen and golden.
Leave to cool in the tin for 15 mins then unmould to make sure it isn’t sticking.
Put back in the tin and poke holes all over the top. Mix 150ml of condensed milk
with 150ml of evaporated milk (see tip for a flavour option) and pour this over
the cake a little at a time, making sure the mixture soaks into the top and not just
around the edges. Chill. To serve, whip 300ml of double cream, cut 3 slices off
the cake and put on three small cake plates or dessert dishes (cut circles from
each slice, if you are feeling fancy). Top with whipped cream. Use the rest of the
whipped cream on the rest of the cake and keep it chilled until needed.

PER SERVING 416 kcals | fat 26.5G

saturates 11.6G | carbs 38.1G | sugars 23.4G
fibre 0.7G | protein 6.1G | salt 0.6G

Visit the O shop and discover goodies that

tip make entertaining easier. Holy Lama’s spice
Add a touch of chai spices to the soaking mixture with chai spice drops. You can also use drops give a quick flavour boost to cups of tea
spices to garnish. and puddings. shop.Omagazine.com

16 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook effortless

June 2023 Omagazine.com 17

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18 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook seasonal

the season
produce as summer begins

In season this month

asparagus
aubergines
basil
blackcurrants
carrots
courgettes
courgette flowers
fennel

June 2023 Omagazine.com 19

 Prawn caesar salad
SERVES 4 | PREP 25 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY | LC

100g ciabatta loaf, crusts removed

2 tbsp olive oil, plus 2 tsp
1 egg yolk
3 anchovy fillets
25g parmesan, grated
1 tsp white wine vinegar
2 garlic cloves, crushed
130ml good-quality extra-virgin olive oil
10g basil leaves, torn
5g flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 tbsp lemon juice, 1 tsp lemon zest, plus wedges to serve
20 raw tiger prawns, peeled and deveined, leaving tails intact
1 Romaine lettuce head, outer leaves discarded

1 Heat a grill to high. Rip the ciabatta into bite-sized pieces and
transfer to a baking tray. Drizzle with 2 tbsp of olive oil and season
well. Toast under the grill for 6-8 mins, turning the bread pieces
occasionally, until evenly golden. Set aside to cool.
2 Meanwhile, blend the egg yolk, anchovies, 10g of the parmesan,
the vinegar and garlic in a mini food processor with 2 tbsp of water
to a smooth paste. With the blender still running, drizzle in 130ml of
extra-virgin olive oil until the mixture is emulsified. Add the herbs
and blend until the dressing is uniformly green. Add the lemon juice
and an extra 1-2 tbsp of water if the mixture is too thick – it should
have a drizzling consistency. Season to taste.
3 Put the prawns into a large bowl with the lemon zest, 2 tsp of
Basil, taleggio and pickled walnut grilled cheese olive oil and plenty of seasoning. Toss to combine and set aside for
10 mins to marinate. Thread the prawns evenly onto four soaked
This grilled cheese will go perfectly with salad leaves dressed in walnut oil,
bamboo skewers. Put a large griddle pan over a medium-high heat.
a little dijon and the vinegar from the pickled walnut jar. Cook the prawns for 2 mins on each side or until lightly charred and
cooked through. Transfer to a plate.

RECIPES: NADINE BROWN. PHOTOGRAPHS: MOWIE KAY. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: JO HARRIS. FOOD STYLING: LIBBY SILBERMANN
SERVES 2 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY | V
4 Separate the lettuce leaves and transfer to a bowl. Toss with
4 tbsp of the dressing and arrange on a platter. Sprinkle over the
3 tbsp salted butter remaining parmesan and scatter over the croutons, arranging the
4 slices of thick sourdough prawn skewers on top with an extra drizzle of dressing. Serve with
10g basil leaves more dressing and the lemon wedges on the side to squeeze over.
150g taleggio, chopped
2-3 pickled walnuts, drained and sliced
PER SERVING 308 kcals | fat 18.2G
salad leaves, to serve
saturates 3.5G | carbs 14.5G | sugars 2.7G
1 Heat 1 tbsp of the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat and fibre 4.3G | protein 19.4G | salt 1.9G
swirl around the pan until melted. Add two of the bread slices and
weigh down with a press or with the back of a spatula. Cook for
2-4 mins on one side or until golden and toasted. Repeat with the
other two pieces of bread, adding more butter to the pan as needed.
2 Mix the basil and taleggio in a bowl. Divide the mixture between two
slices of bread on the toasted side, followed by the pickled walnuts.
Sandwich with the other two slices of bread, toasted sides inwards,
and add to the pan with another knob of butter. Press down and cook
for 2-3 mins or until golden brown. Flip and cook the other side for
another 3-4 mins or until the cheese has melted and both sides are
a crunchy golden brown. Serve straight away with salad leaves.

PER SERVING 659 kcals | fat 40.5G

saturates 25.4G | carbs 47.6G | sugars 6.4G
fibre 5.7G | protein 23G | salt 3.2G

Basil
You might be used to the little bags of basil you find on the fruit
and veg aisle but this herb is a lot more varied than you might know.
Among many varieties, there’s the wrinkled large leaves of the
Lettuce Leaf basil, popular in southern Italy; Cinnamon basil which
is popular in Mexico with a sweet scent and a purple tinge; and Holy
basil, an essential ingredient in Thai cuisine.

20 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook seasonal

cover recipe
June 2023 Omagazine.com 21
 Courgette, lime and pistachio cake
SERVES 10 | PREP 20 MINS | COOKS 1 HR | EASY

150g shelled pistachios

200g salted butter, softened
250g caster sugar
3 eggs, room temperature
300g self-raising flour
1 tsp baking powder
100g natural yogurt
150g courgettes, grated
2 limes, zested and juiced, plus extra zest, to serve
150g icing sugar, sifted
pistachio nibs, to serve

1 Put the pistachios into a food processor and pulse to a fine

powder – don’t over-blend as you don’t want to release the
oils, it should still look dry. Line a 20cm x 25cm cake tin with
baking paper. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
2 Beat together the butter and sugar with an electric whisk
until pale and creamy. Add the eggs, one at a time, then briefly
mix in the ground pistachios, flour, baking powder, yogurt,
courgette and lime zest to make a thick batter. Scrape into
the tin, smooth over the top and bake in the middle of the
oven for 50 mins-1 hr or until the cake is risen and golden
(cover after 45 mins if the top gets too dark), and a skewer
comes out clean. Leave to cool.
3 Mix the icing sugar with enough of the lime juice to create
a thin icing. Pour over the cooled cake and top with the
pistachio nibs and more zest to serve.

PER SERVING 539 kcals | fat 25.5G

saturates 12G | carbs 66.7G | sugars 42.4G
fibre 3.1G | protein 9G | salt 0.8G

Courgettes
Courgettes come from the same family as
cucumbers, squashes and melons. They are at
their best from June until September – choose
smaller courgettes that are firm to touch with
a glossy, unblemished skin.

22 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook seasonal

June 2023 Omagazine.com 23

 Caramelised fennel pasta
with a chilli citrus crumb
A mandoline will make short work of shaving the fennel as thinly
as you can.

SERVES 2 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 50 MINS | EASY |

3 tbsp olive oil

1 large fennel bulb, finely sliced, green fronds reserved to serve
1 long shallot, finely sliced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 tbsp pine nuts
2 tsp thyme leaves
200g short pasta shapes
100ml dry white wine
1 red chilli, finely chopped
30g panko breadcrumbs
1 lemon, zested
½ orange, zested

1 Warm 2 tbsp of the oil in a large frying pan, then fry the fennel
and shallot with a pinch of salt over a medium-low heat for
40-50 mins, stirring regularly, until the fennel turns a deep gold
and is very soft, almost like a paste. Keep adding splashes of
water or the pasta cooking water if it’s starting to stick to
the pan. Cook the pasta following pack instructions until
al dente. Once the fennel has caramelised, add the garlic,
pine nuts and half the thyme, and fry for 1 min.
2 Pour the wine over the fennel and bring up the heat slightly.
Bubble for a few minutes until evaporated while you make the
crumb. In another frying pan, heat the remaining oil over a
medium heat and fry the remaining thyme and the chilli for a
few minutes until fragrant. Stir in the breadcrumbs and fold into
the spiced oil for a few minutes until they just start to turn a
little golden. Transfer to a bowl and stir through the citrus zests.
3 Tip the pasta into the fennel pan, with a splash of the cooking
water, and toss well. Serve in warmed bowls with the crumb
scattered over the top and the reserved fennel fronds.

PER SERVING 763 kcals | fat 33.4G

saturates 3.7G | carbs 82.2G | sugars 8.1G
fibre 11.4G | protein 18.8G | salt 0.4G

Fennel
Fennel, when raw, has a refreshing aniseed flavour with plenty
of crunch in the flesh. When cooked though, it takes on a mellow
sweetness. When prepping, don’t be too quick to discard the green
fronds, which can be used as a garnish.

24 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook seasonal

June 2023 Omagazine.com 25

 Roast carrots with carrot
top pesto and goat’s cheese
The left-over pesto keeps for five days in the fridge.

SERVES 2 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 35 MINS | EASY | GF

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus a drizzle

500g small carrots, with tops
50g brazil or macadamia nuts
20g parmesan
1 small garlic clove, peeled
½ lemon, juiced
30g soft rindless goat’s cheese
sea salt flakes, to serve

1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Remove the tops

from the carrots and set aside. Scrub the carrots well but no
need to peel. Tip into a baking tray and drizzle over 1 tbsp of
the oil and some seasoning. Toss well and roast for 30-35 mins
or until the carrots are tender when pierced with a knife and are
lightly golden and wrinkled.
2 Meanwhile, wash and dry the carrot tops – remove the fronts
from the stems and discard any tough stalks. Tip into a blender
with the nuts, parmesan, garlic and a squeeze of lemon juice.
Season well and blend to a coarse paste. Add 2 tbsp of oil and
blend again to make a thick pesto, taste and add more lemon
juice, if you like. Add a splash of water if you prefer it looser.
3 Transfer the carrots to a serving platter and spoon over some
of the pesto (you won’t need it all – about half). Top the carrots
with little crumbles of the goat’s cheese. Drizzle with a little
more olive oil and a pinch of sea salt flakes to serve.

PER SERVING 376 kcals | fat 27.4G

saturates 7.9G | carbs 19.2G | sugars 17.7G
fibre 10.5G | protein 8.1G | salt 0.5G

Carrots
One of the most versatile root vegetables, carrots can be used raw or
cooked, in sweet or savoury recipes. Look out for firm carrots with
bright orange, unblemished skin – they are at their best from May
through to September.

26 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook seasonal

GET CREATIVE!
Simple recipes, classic ingredients,
new flavours – time to get cooking
STRAWBERRY BASIL VODKA
(MAKES 1.25 LITRES)
Clean and sterilise a two-litre jar. Halve and stem 400g
of strawberries. Put in the jar along with 1 litre of vodka,
200g of caster sugar and a small handful of basil leaves.
Put on the lid and shake until the sugar has dissolved.
Leave to infuse in a dark place for two weeks, shaking
twice a week. Strain the infused vodka – it should be a rich
pink colour – and store in a cool, dark place for at least six
months. It will keep longer, though the colour may change.

CARROT CAKE SNACK BALLS

(MAKES 24)
Soak 70g of dried Medjool dates in hot water for
10 mins, drain, then put in a food processor with 50g
of porridge oats, 50g of chopped walnuts, 70g of
grated carrot, 1 tbsp of black chia seeds, 1 tsp of
ground mixed spice, ½ tsp of ground ginger and ½ tsp
of ground cinnamon. Blitz until smooth, then transfer
to the fridge to chill for 30 mins. Roll the chilled mixture
into 24 balls. Roll the balls in a little extra ground
cinnamon and store in the fridge for four to five days.

CRUNCHY COURGETTE FRIES (SERVES 4)

Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Cut 2 courgettes
into batons. Lightly beat 2 eggs. Combine 100g of
panko breadcrumbs and 100g of grated parmesan
on one plate, and 75g of plain flour in another. Coat
each baton in the flour, followed by the egg and then
roll in the panko-parmesan mixture. Arrange on lined
baking trays. Spray the coated courgette sticks with oil
then cook in the oven for 20 mins, rotating halfway
through, until golden. Serve with a dip of your choice.

SPICED PORK CHOPS WITH FENNEL PICKLE

(SERVES 2)
Combine 50ml of sherry vinegar with 25g of caster
sugar and 25ml of cold water. Stir together until the
sugar has dissolved. Trim and thinly slice 1 fennel
bulb and add to a small bowl with a handful of finely
chopped dill, the zest of 1 orange and 1 tbsp of pink
peppercorns. Pour over the pickle liquid, transfer to the
fridge and leave for at least 2 hrs. Heat a frying pan until
hot. Rub two pork chops with a little oil then hold the
chops fat-side down until golden, crisp and some of the
fat has rendered. Fry for 3 mins on each side, add 50g
of salted butter plus ¼ tsp of ground cumin and cook
for a further minute, basting with the butter. Remove
from the pan and leave to rest for 5 mins before serving
with some of the pickle, garnishing with extra dill.

June 2023 Omagazine.com 27

Indian summer
Recreate the heady flavours of a traditional tandoor at home
with Maunika Gowardhan’s inventive recipes

Saffron-spiced whole roast chicken (ZAFRANI MURGH)

Saffron has long exerted its influence across regions of India: it’s a staple
ingredient not just in curries and biryanis but also in tandoori cooking.
The spiced yogurt and almond marinade coats the chicken, infusing the
meat. The chicken is then basted with saffron-flavoured ghee or butter
as it cooks all the way through to keep the whole bird moist, lend even
more flavour and give everything a wonderful golden colour.

SERVES 4-6 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS MARINATING 3 Season to taste, then spread the marinade over the
AND RESTING | COOK 1 HR 35 MINS | EASY | GF chicken and leave to marinate in the fridge for at
least 2 hrs or preferably overnight.
1 tsp saffron strands 4 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line a
200g ghee or butter roasting tray with foil and put a wire rack over the
1.9kg whole chicken tray. Sit the chicken breast-side up on the wire rack.
MARINADE The tray will collect all the juices from the chicken as
220g greek yogurt it cooks. Roast the chicken for 45 mins.
3 tsp ground almonds 5 Baste the chicken with the reserved saffron ghee,
2 tsp kashmiri chilli powder then turn the chicken over so it is breast-side down
2 tsp ground cardamom and continue to roast for a further 50 mins until the
½ tsp ground cinnamon chicken is cooked through and the juices are running
RECIPES: MAUNIKA GOWARDHAN. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISSY CROKER

8 garlic cloves, ground to a paste clear. Transfer the chicken to a large serving plate.
5cm ginger, ground to a paste As you lift the chicken, let any juices from the cavity
cooked rice, spiced vegetables or salad, to serve pour into the roasting tray – you can use these to
make a light gravy. Cover the chicken loosely with
1 In a mixing bowl, crush the saffron strands, add the foil and leave to rest in a warm place for 20-30 mins.
ghee or butter and mix well. Divide this saffron ghee 6 Carve the chicken and arrange the pieces on a
between two bowls. Set one bowl aside to use for serving platter. Serve warm with rice, spiced
basting the chicken during roasting. vegetables or salad.
2 Put the chicken on a large plate and, starting
at the neck end, ease the skin away from the flesh. PER SERVING (6) 689 kcals | fat 50.4G
Spread the saffron ghee from the second bowl under
saturates 21.5G | carbs 2.7G | sugars 1.9G
and over the skin. In a separate bowl, combine the
fibre 0.8G | protein 55.8G | salt 0.6G
yogurt, almonds, chilli, cardamom, cinnamon, garlic
and ginger pastes.

28 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook tandoori

June 2023 Omagazine.com 29

 Crispy fried flatbread stuffed with spicy lamb, chilli and coriander
(KEEMA BAIDA ROTI)

Eating these stuffed roti at Bademiya in Mumbai as a teenager has always

been one of my favourite food memories. The Mughlai community made
this stuffed bread so popular that it’s now a staple of street food stalls across
India. Commonly served during festivities, a lot of places serve baida roti all
year. Spicy ground lamb stuffed inside an eggy roti and fried in ghee, it’s one
of the highlights on Ramadan menus as well.

with a lid and simmer over a low heat for 4 mins until
SERVES 4 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS RESTING
everything is combined well. Turn off the heat and
COOK 40 MINS | MORE EFFORT add the garam masala, chilli, coriander and lime
juice. Tilt the pan slightly and spoon off any excess
FILLING oil. Leave the keema to cool completely before
3 tbsp vegetable oil making the baida roti.
5 green cardamom pods 3 To make the roti, combine the flour, oil and a pinch
100g onions, finely chopped of sea salt in a large mixing bowl. Mix well, then add
6 garlic cloves, ground to a paste 110ml of water, a little at a time. Knead as the dough
5cm ginger, ground to a paste begins to come together. Leave the dough in the
2 tbsp tomato purée bowl, cover and set aside to rest for 1 hr.
350g lamb mince 4 Divide both the dough and filling mixture into four
1 tsp kashmiri chilli powder or mild equal portions. Break one egg into a bowl, whisk
unsmoked paprika lightly and set aside.
2 tbsp dried fenugreek leaves (kasoori methi) 5 Heat a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat.
1 tsp garam masala Working with one portion at a time, add a little ghee
1 green bird’s-eye chilli, finely chopped to the dough and roll out as thinly as possible to a
1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves 25cm round. The roti does not need to be perfectly
juice of ½ lime round – that is not essential for a baida roti.
BAIDA ROTI 6 Spoon one portion of the filling mixture into the
210g plain flour middle of the roti, make a little well in the keema and
1 tbsp vegetable oil add half of the beaten egg. Working quickly, fold the
2-3 eggs sides of the roti inwards, overlapping one another to
50g ghee, for rolling and frying form a neat parcel.
TO SERVE 7 Add 1 tsp of the ghee to the pan. Carefully lift
lime wedges the baida roti parcel, put it in the pan and fry over
chutney a medium heat for 3-4 mins on one side. Top the roti
salad with a little ghee, flip it over and cook for 3-4 mins on
the other side. Press down lightly on the parcel to
1 To make the filling, heat the oil in a non-stick pan ensure the filling is cooked through. Flip over the roti
over a medium heat. Fry the cardamom pods for again and cook for a further 2 mins. Keep warm
10 seconds. Add the onion and fry for 7-8 mins or while you make and cook the remaining baida roti.
until light brown. Add the garlic and ginger, and Serve warm with lime wedges, chutney and salad.
cook, stirring frequently, for 1 min. Stir in the tomato
purée and fry for 2 mins.
PER SERVING 640 kcals | fat 38.3G
2 Add the lamb and cook, stirring continuously, for
saturates 14.4G | carbs 44.8G | sugars 3G
3 mins. Add the chilli powder, stir well and cook for
2 mins until the meat is evenly coloured all the way fibre 3.9G | protein 26.9G | salt 0.4G
through. Add the fenugreek, season to taste, cover

30 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook tandoori

June 2023 Omagazine.com 31

 Whole roasted cauliflower in a creamy coconut and chilli sauce (GOBI TANDOORI)

A whole roasted tandoori cauliflower is always the star of the lunch table.
Traditionally cauliflower florets are cooked in a tandoor but, for ease of cooking,
I have marinated a whole cauliflower in spices, including the leaves and stem,
and then roasted it in the oven. Taking inspiration from the classic Mughal
flavours of a korma, it’s cooked in rich coconut milk, which gives a wonderful
creamy consistency to the gravy in the bottom of the roasting tin. Basting the
cauliflower with the saffron-infused coconut gravy while it cooks ensures the
florets are coated in spices.

SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 1 HR | EASY | V 7-8 mins. Remove the cauliflower from the pan,
drain and set aside for 20 mins while you prepare
1 large cauliflower the marinade.
1 heaped tsp ground turmeric 3 In a bowl, combine the melted ghee or butter with
800ml full-fat coconut milk the garlic, ginger, chilli powder, cumin, nutmeg and
handful of slivered or crushed almonds, to garnish saffron. Season to taste. Put the cauliflower on a
1 tbsp finely chopped coriander leaves, to garnish plate and cover it in the spiced marinade, coating all
MARINADE the florets, stems and crevices.
3 tbsp melted ghee or butter 4 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Pour
2 garlic cloves, finely grated the coconut milk into a deep roasting tin or baking
5cm ginger, finely grated dish and stir in any remaining marinade. Put the
1½ tsp kashmiri chilli powder or mild chilli powder cauliflower in the tin and roast for 50 mins.
2 tsp ground cumin 5 Halfway through the cooking time, baste the
½ tsp ground nutmeg cauliflower with the coconut milk. The milk will
generous pinch of saffron strands reduce and thicken, and the cauliflower will cook all
salad, to serve the way through.
6 Serve warm, cut into thick slices or wedges and
1 Trim any excess outer leaves from the cauliflower garnished with the almonds and coriander, alongside
and cut across its base so that it sits flat. some salad.
2 Pour enough water into a large, deep pan to
cover the cauliflower. Add the turmeric and a pinch PER SERVING 501 kcals | fat 46.7G
of salt to the water. Bring the water to a boil over saturates 36.2G | carbs 12.2G | sugars 7.4G
a medium heat and then submerge the cauliflower, fibre 4.2G | protein 5.9G | salt 0.1G
upside down, in the boiling water and cook for

32 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook tandoori

June 2023 Omagazine.com 33

 Tandoori masala fish
An oven-roasted whole fish is coated in a
classic tandoori marinade. Traditionally in
India this would be done with a local flat
fish, such as pomfret, however I have used
sea bream here, which is a firm, flat fish that
cooks really well with spices. The creamy,
tandoori marinade forms a crust around
the fish that encases the flesh, retaining
the moisture and keeping the fish intact.

SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS MARINATING

COOK 25 MINS | GF

2 whole sea breams (about 280g), scaled and gutted

1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tbsp lemon juice
smoked butter or ghee, for basting
grilled lemons, naan, chutney and salad, to serve
MARINADE
3 garlic cloves
3cm ginger
50g cashew nuts, soaked in hot water for 20 mins
2 tbsp greek yogurt
1 heaped tsp gram flour
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 tsp kashmiri chilli powder
½ tsp ground white pepper
1 tbsp ground coriander
2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

1 Lay the sea breams on a large plate. Sprinkle the

turmeric, lemon juice and some salt over the fish, and rub
it into the skin. Set aside while you make the marinade.
2 Pound the garlic and ginger to a paste using a pestle and
mortar. Blend the cashew nuts with 7 tbsp of water to a
smooth, fine paste. Put in a large bowl along with the
yogurt, flour, oil and garlic and ginger paste. Add the chilli,
pepper and ground coriander, and season to taste. Add the
coriander leaves and stir well. Spread the marinade all over
the fish and leave to marinate for 1 hr.
3 Heat the oven to 230C/210C fan/gas 8. Line a baking tray
with foil and put a wire rack over the tray. Put the fish on
the wire rack and bake for 20-25 mins. Halfway through,
baste the fish with the smoked butter.
4 Once the flesh is cooked through and the marinade
has formed a crust, transfer the fish to a serving platter.
Serve the fish warm with the grilled lemons, naan, chutney
and salad.

PER SERVING 358 kcals | fat 23.9G

saturates 7.8G | carbs 5.1G | sugars 2.2G
fibre 2.4G | protein 29.4G | salt 0.5G

34 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook tandoori

Green peppers stuffed with spicy potatoes, chilli and dried mango
(TANDOORI SHIMLA MIRCH)

When I lived in India my mum would make this recipe often, especially when
she had friends over. The peppers are stuffed with spiced potatoes flavoured
with dried mango powder, which lends a tangy, sour note. The peppers in India
were smaller than those in the UK, so we would cut the tops off, stuff and grill
or sit over a pan to cook. Here, I’ve halved the peppers lengthwise,
which softens the pepper although they still retain bite.

SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 30 MINS

EASY | GF

4 medium green peppers, halved lengthwise,

stems left on and deseeded
2 tbsp vegetable oil
FILLING
2 tbsp vegetable oil
pinch of asafoetida
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 green bird’s-eye chillies, finely chopped
1 heaped tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground turmeric
½ tsp kashmiri chilli powder
600g potatoes, boiled, peeled and lightly crushed
1 tsp dried mango powder
2 tbsp finely chopped coriander leaves
chutney and roti, to serve

1 Brush the inside of each pepper with the oil and

sprinkle with a little salt.
2 To make the filling, heat the oil in a large non-stick
pan over a medium heat. Add the asafoetida and
cumin and, as they splutter, quickly add the green
chillies, ground coriander, turmeric and chilli powder.
Add the crushed potatoes and stir well for 1 min.
Lower the heat, season to taste and add the dried
mango powder along with the chopped coriander.
Turn off the heat, cover and leave to cool completely.
3 Divide the potato filling equally between the
eight pepper halves. Press the filling down into the
peppers so they are well stuffed.
4 Heat a griddle pan over a high heat. Brush the top
and base of each shimla mirch with oil and put them,
potato filling-side down, onto the grill and cook for
5-6 mins. Turn the peppers over, so they are now
potato filling-side up, and grill for a further 8 mins.
Serve warm with chutney and roti.

PER SERVING 247 kcals | fat 12.1G

saturates 1G | carbs 27.1G | sugars 5.2G
fibre 6.5G | protein 4.2G | salt 0.1G

Recipes extracted from Tandoori

Home Cooking by Maunika Gowardhan
(£25, Hardie Grant). Photographs:
Issy Croker. Recipes are sent by the
publisher and not retested by us.

June 2023 Omagazine.com 35

3 WAYS WITH

YOGURT
Creamy yogurt, whether sweet or sour, can
add a welcome extra dimension to a dish

1
Yogurt, produced by the bacterial fermentation of Crispy pitta and chickpea fatteh
milk, comes in many varieties around the world,
from familiar natural yogurt and Greek yogurt, to SERVES 4-6 AS A SIDE | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 40 MINS
EASY | V
Icelandic skyr and East European kefir. Most yogurt
is made from cow’s milk, but sheep’s milk, goat’s 2 tbsp tahini
milk and buffalo’s milk is also used. juice of ½ a lemon
300g natural yogurt
1 large garlic clove, finely crushed
540g jar of chickpeas

RECIPES: LINZI PUCINO. PHOTOGRAPHS: JONATHAN GREGSON. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: HANNAH WILKINSON. FOOD STYLING: PHIL MUNDY
3 tbsp ghee, melted
2 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp sumac, plus extra to serve
1
/8 tsp cayenne pepper
2 wholemeal pittas, torn into chunks
75g mixed unsalted nuts
2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, roughly chopped
2 tbsp mint, leaves only, roughly chopped
2 tbsp pomegranate seeds

1 Loosen the tahini with the lemon juice, then stir into the
yogurt. Stir in the garlic then season to taste.
2 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 4. Drain the chickpeas
well (keep the liquid to make vegan meringues, if you like) and
pat dry with kitchen paper. Put into a large roasting tin and toss
with 1 tbsp of the ghee, half the paprika, all the sumac and
cayenne. Season well, then bake for 30-35 mins, shaking the
tin occasionally, until crispy and golden.
3 Toss the pitta with 1 tbsp of the ghee and add to another tray
before baking alongside the chickpeas for the final 10 mins of
cooking time until crunchy and golden.
4 Meanwhile, put the remaining ghee in a frying pan over a
medium heat and toast the nuts with the remaining paprika for
3-4 mins. Season, then transfer to a plate to cool.
5 To assemble, toss together the nuts, chickpeas and pitta,
reserving the melted ghee from the pan. Spread two-thirds of
the mixture onto a platter and spoon over the yogurt. Sprinkle
over the remaining mixture, drizzle over a little of the reserved
ghee, then sprinkle over the herbs, pomegranate and extra
sumac before serving.

PER SERVING (6) 354 kcals | fat 21.9G

saturates 6.7G | carbs 23.8G | sugars 5.8G
fibre 6.3G | protein 12.3G | salt 0.3G

36 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook 3 ways with

June 2023 Omagazine.com 37

2
Earl grey and yogurt madeleines
MAKES 12-15 | PREP 10 MINS
COOK 10 MINS | EASY 2 Use an electric whisk to beat together
the egg, honey and sugar for 1 min until
75g unsalted butter, plus extra for the tin pale and fluffy. Sift in the flour and baking
1 tsp loose earl grey tea leaves powder along with a pinch of salt, before
1 egg stirring in the melted butter and tea. Stir in
1 tsp runny honey the yogurt and lemon zest before spooning
75g caster sugar evenly into the prepared tin. Depending on
100g plain flour the size of your tin, you might get more
1 tsp baking powder than 12 madeleines – bake the remainder
2 tbsp natural yogurt after the first batch.
finely grated zest of 1 lemon 3 Bake for 8-10 mins or until golden and
icing sugar, to serve puffed up. Allow to cool for a couple of
minutes before carefully turning out onto
1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. a wire rack. Sift over a little icing sugar
Butter a 12-hole madeleine tin well. then eat while still warm with a cup of tea.
Put the 75g of butter and the tea leaves
in a microwaveable bowl and heat for PER SERVING (15) 94 kcals | fat 4.7G
15-20 seconds or until melted. Leave saturates 2.8G | carbs 11G | sugars 5.9G
to sit for 10 mins. fibre 0.3G | protein 1.6G | salt 0.1G

38 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook 3 ways with

3
Doogh ice lollies
Salty and tangy, we’ve translated this classic
savoury Persian yogurt drink into a refreshing ice
lolly. Mint adds freshness and we’ve added honey
for a little sweetness but feel free to leave that out.

MAKES 6 | PREP 5 MINS PLUS OVERNIGHT

FREEZING | EASY | GF

500g natural yogurt

4 tbsp mint, leaves only (3 tbsp shredded,
1 tbsp finely chopped)
¼ tsp sea salt flakes
1 tbsp runny honey
1 tbsp edible rose petals, crushed

1 Put the yogurt in a large jug and add the

shredded mint, salt, 1/8 tsp of pepper and the
honey. Stir well to combine – taste and add a
pinch more salt if you prefer it saltier. Pour into
six silicone lollipop moulds.
2 Combine the rose petals and finely chopped
mint. Before adding sticks to the moulds,
sprinkle a little of the petal mixture over the
bottom of each lolly. Add the sticks then freeze
the lollies overnight.
3 To serve, carefully run the mould under some
hot water then wiggle gently to remove.

PER SERVING 79 kcals | fat 2.5G

saturates 1.6G | carbs 9.3G | sugars 9.1G
fibre 0G | protein 4.7G | salt 0.4G

June 2023 Omagazine.com 39

advertisement feature

Mediterranean G&T

Surprise me
SERVES 1 | PREP 5 MINS | EASY

50ml Audemus Umami Gin

150ml Franklin & Sons Rosemary &
Black Olive Tonic, or enough to top up
blackberries, to garnish

Fill a wine glass with ice, then add the

gin and top up with the Franklin & Sons
You can elevate your signature tipples from ordinary Rosemary & Black Olive Tonic. Garnish
with the blackberries to serve.
to extraordinary with Franklin & Sons’ mixers

Whether you’re hosting a dinner party or Almond Soda and many more intriguingly Drinkers, which will be streaming on Prime
having a romantic night in, it’s always fun complementary combinations to try. Video from Thursday 18 May.
to find new ways to enjoy your favourite Ever sincethe Franklin brothers founding It features an exciting segment about
spirits. From crisp G&Ts to sparkling vodka it more than 130 years ago, Franklin & Sons Franklin & Sons, where drinks experts Aidy
sodas, you can easily create remarkable has always been a brand with passion, Smith and Helena Nicklin show how the
drinks for those memorable moments simplicity and great taste at its heart. To brand’s mixers can be paired with a variety
with Franklin & Sons’ award-winning this day, all the drinks in the range are made of different spirits to create surprising new
mixers. Even the simplest serve can taste naturally and without compromise, meaning flavour combinations.
more complex with the brand’s unique they never contain any artificial flavours, Want to try them for yourself? Here are
dual flavours – indeed, there’s Grapefruit sweeteners or preservatives. You can see the three simple serves from the series to give
& Bergamot Tonic Water, Pineapple & mixers in action in season three of The Three you a little taste.

40 June 2023 magazine.com

 Guava and lime spritz
SERVES 1 | PREP 5 MINS | EASY

50ml Crystal Head Vodka

150ml Franklin & Sons Guava & Lime
Soda, or enough to top up
1 sprig of mint, to garnish

Fill a highball glass with ice, then add

the vodka and top up with the Franklin
& Sons Guava & Lime Soda. Garnish
with the mint to serve.

Who are The Three Drinkers? sommelier Beth Brickenden and travel
The perfect TV series for any food and influencer Eulanda Shead-Osagiede. Now,
drink lover, The Three Drinkers follows Aidy and Helena are back for a third season,
award-winning drinks writers and entitled The Three Drinkers in Cognac,
broadcasters, Aidy Smith and Helena which features Eulanda and a brand-new
Cognac highball Nicklin, as they take a deep dive into the third drinker: Virgin Radio DJ Eddy
cultures of various different countries. Temple-Morris. This time, they’ll be
SERVES 1 | PREP 5 MINS | EASY Together, they scope out the local food exploring the French region of Cognac and
and drink delicacies of each region they visit, its namesake spirit, while uncovering even
50ml Jean-Luc Pasquet L'Organic
04 Cognac
all while enjoying plenty of fun activities, more local cultural and culinary highlights.
150ml Franklin & Sons Mandarin from bog snorkelling and eel fishing to And, of course, Franklin & Sons will
& Ginger Soda, or enough to top up cheesemaking and botanical foraging. be making an appearance, so you’ll also
twist of orange peel, to garnish The first season saw them take a whisky- learn a few new ways to mix your favourite
fuelled journey through Scotland with spirits along the way.
Fill a goblet with ice, then add the
cognac and top up with the Franklin
fellow drinks expert Colin Hampden-White, Don’t miss Franklin & Sons in season
& Sons Mandarin & Ginger Soda. while the second was a gastronomic three of The Three Drinkers, available
IMAGE CREDIT: MR FOGG’S HOUSE OF BOTANICALS.

Garnish with the orange peel to serve. adventure around Ireland, with Irish on Prime Video from Thursday 18 May.

To shop the Franklin & Sons range, scan

the QR code and use code Franklin20
to get 20% off your next order

June 2023 magazine.com 41

 Eat well everyday
Easy, speedy, veg-packed meals to see you through the week

One-pot veggie
tagine with jewelled
bulgur wheat
(recipe on p44)

42 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook everyday
RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHS: HARRIET PORTERFIELD

Green goddess falafel

(recipe on p44)

June 2023 Omagazine.com 43

One-pot veggie tagine with Green goddess falafel
jewelled bulgur wheat
These gorgeously green falafel are gluten-free, easy and quick
This is very simple to make as you just put it all in the pan and to make, and loaded with spinach and parsley.
leave it to cook. Served with a delicious bulgur wheat studded
with raisins and pomegranate seeds, it’s an ideal midweek SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY | LC

meal that tastes even more delicious the next day.

2 garlic cloves, minced
400g tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed
SERVES 4-5 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 1 HR 30 MINS
100g spinach
EASY | LC
20g flat-leaf parsley
80g gram flour
2 tbsp olive oil
juice of ½ a lemon
2 carrots, thickly sliced
2 tsp ground cumin
1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into large chunks
2 tsp ground coriander
2 courgettes, cut into large chunks
2 tbsp vegetable or coconut oil
1 onion, thickly sliced
TO SERVE
1 yellow pepper, deseeded and cut into large chunks
flour tortillas
1 red pepper, deseeded and cut into large chunks
hummus
½ small butternut squash, peeled and cut into
red onion, finely sliced
medium chunks
10g flat-leaf parsley
2 garlic cloves, minced
30g spinach
21/2cm piece of ginger, finely chopped
¼ cucumber, sliced
juice of 1½ lemons
1 tsp each of smoked paprika, ground turmeric, ground
1 Put the garlic and chickpeas in a food processor or
cinnamon and ground coriander
blender, followed by the spinach, parsley, gram flour, lemon
2 tsp paprika
juice, cumin, coriander, 1 tsp of sea salt and ½ tsp freshly
2 tsp ground cumin
ground pepper. Pulse to combine into a dough. Form into
½ tsp chilli powder
12-13 small falafels, using 1 tbsp of mixture per falafel.
350ml vegetable stock
2 Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat
400g tin of chopped tomatoes
and fry half the falafels for a couple of minutes on each side
400g tin of chickpeas, drained
until starting to brown. Remove from the heat and repeat
90g dried apricots, roughly chopped
with the remaining oil and falafels. Serve warm in fresh
handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
tortillas with hummus, sliced red onion, parsley, spinach
JEWELLED BULGUR WHEAT
and cucumber.
150g bulgur wheat
50g raisins
1 pomegranate PER SERVING 140 kcals | fat 6.9G
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil saturates 4.8G | carbs 9.5G | sugars 6.4G
fibre 7.2G | protein 6.6G | salt 1.2G
1 Heat the olive oil in a large lidded pan, casserole or
tagine over a medium heat. Add the carrots, sweet potato,
courgettes, onion, peppers and squash. Cook for 10 mins
until starting to soften, then add the garlic, ginger, lemon
juice, spices, 1 tsp of salt and some freshly ground black
pepper, and stir well to coat all the veggies with the spices.
Add the stock, tomatoes, chickpeas and apricots, and
reduce to a gentle simmer. Put on the lid and cook over
a low heat for 1 hr 30 mins until the vegetables are soft.
Stir through the parsley before serving.
2 Put the bulgur, raisins, ½ tsp of salt and ¼ tsp of freshly
ground black pepper in a pan with 250ml of cold water.
Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and put the lid
on. Cook for 8 mins until all the water has been absorbed.
Turn off the heat and keep covered for another 5 mins, then
remove the lid and fluff up the bulgur with a fork. Deseed
the pomegranate and stir through the seeds along with the
olive oil. Serve the bulgur wheat alongside the tagine.

PER SERVING (5) 434 kcals | fat 12.5G

saturates 1.8G | carbs 60.5G | sugars 32.9G
fibre 15.1G | protein 12.4G | salt 1.8G

Omagazine.com
• Find more nourishing midweek meal solutions on Omagazine.com,
including warming vegetarian curries, vibrant salads and quick lunch ideas.

44 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook everyday

Sweet potato, kale and chickpea 100g curly kale leaves, shredded large bowl and coat with the remaining olive
1 red onion, thinly sliced oil. Massage the oil into the leaves with your
salad with creamy tahini dressing 40g pumpkin seeds hands until every leaf is coated. Set aside
1 avocado, thinly sliced to soften.
Massaged kale, lightly spiced roasted sweet TAHINI DRESSING 3 Prepare the dressing by mixing all the
potato and chickpeas are joined with a tangy 2 tbsp tahini dressing ingredients, plus ½ tsp of sea salt
and creamy lemon tahini dressing. Massaging 2 tbsp olive oil and 6 tbsp of hot water, in a small bowl or
the kale makes the leaves tender and sweet, juice of 1 lemon jug with a fork until combined. It should be
and keeping it raw means you get the full smooth and runny – add a little more hot
benefits of all those vitamins. 1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 water if the dressing is too thick.
and line a baking tray with baking paper. 4 Add the roasted sweet potato, chickpeas,
SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 35 MINS 2 Put the sweet potato and chickpeas in a red onion, pumpkin seeds and avocado to
EASY | GF mixing bowl with 1 tbsp of the olive oil. Add the kale. Drizzle over the tahini dressing and
the cumin, coriander, ½ tsp of sea salt and stir through just before serving.
2 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼ tsp of freshly ground black pepper, and stir
2cm dice to coat everything evenly. Spread out on the PER SERVING 1,002 kcals | fat 60G
400g tin of chickpeas, drained lined baking tray and roast for 30-35 mins or saturates 9.6G | carbs 77.2G | sugars 31.4G
2 tbsp olive oil until the sweet potato is starting to brown at fibre 25.6G | protein 25.2G | salt 2.8G
2 tsp ground cumin the edges and the chickpeas are becoming
1 tsp ground coriander golden. Meanwhile, put the kale leaves in a

June 2023 Omagazine.com 45

cook everyday

low cal

Get your greens soup Zesty lemon linguine with kale cashew pesto
This powerhouse of a soup is everything a green soup This comforting pasta dish is herby, fragrant, delicious and
should be: vibrant, herby, fragrant and incredibly nourishing. easy to put together. The best thing is it makes enough pesto
It’s really flexible, so feel free to interchange the greens and to fill a 400g jar, so you can freeze some to use at a later date.
use whatever you have to hand.
SERVES 2 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY |
SERVES 4 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 25 MINS | EASY | LC
200g linguine
400g broccoli, stalk included 2 tbsp vegan Italian-style cheese
1 tbsp vegan butter or coconut oil 1 tbsp grated lemon zest
1 onion, sliced KALE CASHEW PESTO
2 garlic cloves, minced 100g cashews
5cm piece of ginger, peeled and minced 100g kale
150g kale leaves, stalks trimmed, roughly chopped 30g basil, plus extra leaves to serve
40g spinach zest and juice of 1-2 large lemons
20g flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced
10g mint, roughly chopped 70ml extra-virgin olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
800ml vegetable stock 1 To make the pesto, heat a medium frying pan over a low
60ml coconut milk heat and lightly toast the cashews for 5-7 mins, stirring
often, until starting to brown at the edges.
1 Slice the broccoli into 5cm chunks, including the stalk. 2 Heat a pan of water until simmering, then boil or steam
Melt the butter or oil in a large pan over a medium heat the kale for a few minutes until starting to soften and
and cook the broccoli and onion for 5 mins until starting become vibrant green, then drain. Put the toasted cashews,
to soften. Add the garlic and ginger, and cook for 2 mins. kale, basil, lemon zest and juice from 1 of the lemons, garlic
2 Add all the remaining ingredients, apart from the coconut and 1 tsp of sea salt in a food processor or blender and
milk, plus ½ tsp of sea salt, and simmer for 20 mins until blend until combined. While the blade is still turning, pour
the broccoli is soft and you can mash it against the side of in the olive oil and blend until everything comes together.
the pan. Add the coconut milk and blitz in a food processor Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed – you want to be
or with a stick blender until really smooth. able to taste the tang of the lemon, so add a bit more juice
if needed. Set aside in a clean jar.
PER SERVING 140 kcals | fat 6.9G 3 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil over a
saturates 4.8G | carbs 9.5G | sugars 6.4G medium heat. Once boiling, cook the linguine for 7-8 mins
fibre 7.2G | protein 6.6G | salt 1.2G or following pack instructions. Reserve a cupful of the
pasta water, then drain the linguine. Tip the pasta back into
the pan off the heat and add 2 heaped tbsp of the pesto.
Toss well with a splash of the reserved water to make a Recipes extracted
glossy sauce. Season to taste. Serve with fresh basil
from Eat the
leaves, more lemon zest and a sprinkle of cheese.
Rainbow by Harriet
PER SERVING 530 kcals | fat 15.1G
Porterfield, (£20,
saturates 4.8G | carbs 76.1G | sugars 1.7G
Leaping Hare).
fibre 6.2G | protein 19.4G | salt 0.7G
Photographs: Harriet
Porterfield. Recipes
are sent by the
publisher and not
retested by us.

46 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 cook classic

COOK A CLASSIC

Rocky road
Perfect for picnics or with an afternoon cuppa, this easy teatime treat
is a great way to use up any chocolate and biscuits you have to hand

SERVES 12 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS

COOLING AND CHILLING
COOK 5 MINS | EASY

150g salted butter, plus extra for the tin

3 tbsp golden syrup
200g dark chocolate
200g milk chocolate
2 Crunchie bars
handful of mini marshmallows
200g digestive biscuits, broken
into pieces
handful of raisins

1 Heat the butter, syrup and chocolates in

a small pan over a gentle heat until melted
and combined. Tip into a large bowl and
cool for 10 mins.
2 Lightly butter and line a 20cm brownie
RECIPE: ADAM BUSH. PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH. SHOOT DIRECTOR: JACK HUNTLEY. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS. FOOD STYLING: KATIE MARSHALL

tin with baking paper. Put the Crunchie

bars into a bowl and bash with the end of
a rolling pin until broken into small pieces.
Add to the bowl of cooled chocolate with
the marshmallows, digestives and raisins,
and mix everything together well.
3 Tip into the tin and level out. Chill for a
few hours until firm then cut into 12 pieces.

PER SERVING 410 kcals | fat 27G

saturates 15.5G | carbs 36.2G | sugars 25.9G
fibre 3G | protein 4G | salt 0.6G

June 2023 Omagazine.com 47

 it up
Celebrate summer in style with Mionetto, the
quality Italian prosecco that’s worth savouring
Since 1887, Mionetto has been lovingly
produced amidst the gentle rolling hills
of Valdobbiadene in the north of Italy,
the heart of the prosecco region. Light,
crisp and versatile, it’s no longer just an
Italian favourite, but one that’s enjoyed
all over the world.
As you take a sip of this quality prosecco,
aromas of golden delicious apples, white
peaches and honey greet the nose, while
the well-balanced acidity gives it a fresh
mouthfeel with a clean and dry finish.
A glass of Mionetto is perfect all on its
own, but it will also take your cocktails
to wonderful new heights. Whether the
occasion calls for a classic Aperol spritz
or a refreshing pitcher of prosecco iced
tea to enjoy with friends, why not start
your Mionetto love story with one of
these tempting recipes?

Aperol spritz
SERVES 1 PREP 3 mins EASY

75ml Mionetto Prosecco

50ml Aperol
25ml soda water
orange slice, to garnish

1 Fill your glass with plenty of ice, then

pour in the prosecco, followed by the
Aperol. Finish with the soda water and
gently stir to combine. Garnish with the
orange slice and enjoy.

48 June 2023 magazine.com

 advertisement feature

Strawberry and elderflower fizz

SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins EASY

200g strawberries, 4 left whole, the rest diced

into 1cm cubes
150ml St Germain elderflower liqueur
750ml Mionetto Prosecco

1 In a small bowl, combine the diced strawberries and

St Germain, mashing slightly to release the strawberry juice.
2 Divide the mixture between four small wine glasses, top
with the prosecco, then garnish with a whole strawberry.

Prosecco iced tea

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins EASY

2 English breakfast tea bags

2 lemons, juiced
50ml agave syrup
1 nectarine or peach, sliced, plus extra to serve
100g raspberries
750ml Mionetto Prosecco
4 mint sprigs

1 In a bowl, steep the tea bags in 100ml of boiling water for

5 mins, then squeeze out and discard the tea bags. Add the
lemon juice and agave to the tea, stir and set aside to cool.
2 Once cool, add the nectarine or peach slices and the
raspberries. Spoon into a jug with ice, then add the
prosecco. To serve, garnish four glasses with a mint sprig
and a final slice of nectarine or peach.

Mionetto is available to buy at Tesco,

Morrisons, Sainsbury's and slurp.co.uk

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY. CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. NO. 1308/2013

June 2023 magazine.com 49

 ADVERTISEMENT

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 DISCOVER
Outdoor Kent restaurant Updown shares
a beautifully fresh, summery signature dish,
we serve up our selection of Britain’s best
brunches, plus the sunshine flavours of
Mediterranean jewel Malta
PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID COTSWORTH

June 2023 Omagazine.com 51

 IGNATURE D
S IS

Try Kent restaurant

IL
Updown’s beautifully BAS
N D
simple dishes where the A
P EAS
T H
focus is on the highest
LL A WI
quality seasonal ingredients L O MO Z Z ARE
BUFFA

52 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 discover signature dish

There’s something about a restaurant with rooms that’s Buffalo mozzarella

deeply comforting – the promise of a warm, soft bed a mere
minute’s stroll after a perfectly executed meal. At Updown,
with peas and basil
this is amplified in a beautiful 17th century farmhouse, just SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 1 MIN | EASY | V GF

outside Deal, Kent. Food is sourced from a small collection 250g good-quality buffalo mozzarella
of local suppliers – meaty breakfast offerings come from 3 tbsp sherry vinegar
The Black Pig butchers in Deal, and The Goods Shed in 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
squeeze of lemon juice
Canterbury provides some of its seasonal veg. While the 80g fresh peas
outdoor restaurant is open to the public on Friday nights 8 basil leaves, torn
and Sunday lunches, lucky hotel guests can join head chef 1 Tear the mozzarella onto a plate and season well. Mix the
Oli and the team for all other mealtimes in the farmhouse. vinegar, oil and lemon juice in a bowl.
updownfarmhouse.com 2 Bring a large pan of water to the boil, then blanch the peas
for 1 min. Immediately plunge them into iced water to stop
the cooking process, thoroughly drain and toss in the vinegar-
oil mixture.
3 Dress the mozzarella with the peas and finish with the freshly
torn basil.

PER SERVING 453 kcals | fat 37G

saturates 18.9G | carbs 3.7G | sugars 0.5G
fibre 2.1G | protein 25.3G | salt 1.3G

June 2023 Omagazine.com 53

discover signature dish

Vodka martini with

a smoked eel gilda
SERVES 1 | PREP 10 MINS | EASY

1 pickled green chilli

1 big green pitted olive, plus 10ml olive brine
1 small fillet of smoked eel
60ml vodka
10ml dry vermouth

1 Prepare the garnish by wrapping the chilli around the

olive and eel, and spearing through the middle with a
cocktail stick.
2 Chill a coupe or martini glass in the freezer for a few
minutes. Pack ice into a cocktail shaker or small jug and
pour over the vodka, vermouth and olive brine.
3 Stir with a bar spoon until icy cold – this will take a couple
of minutes. Put the garnish into the glass and strain the
vodka mixture on top.

Menu decoder
TAGLIOLINI DOLIN DRY GNOCCHI ALLA GARIGUETTE
This ribbon pasta, served
VERMOUTH ROMANA STRAWBERRIES
RECIPES: OLI BROWN. PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID COTSWORTH

with broad beans and pecorino,

This particular brand of Gnocchi’s comfort level These early spring French
is a mixture of pasta styles.
vermouth is used in the Updown increases in this classic Roman strawberries are sweet and
It has spaghetti’s length
vodka martini. Its delicate yet style made with milk, butter tangy, and the perfect addition
but is thinner like capellini
lively flavour comes from a and cheese. At the restaurant, to Updown’s zabaglione.
and roughly the same width
mixture of 15 botanicals it is served with veal, sage,
as tagliatelle.
marinated in a specific white marsala and spinach.
wine, ugni blanc.

54 June 2023 Omagazine.com

Get a 360 tour and see more of
the action at Updown at
Omagazine.com
and on our socials.

June 2023 Omagazine.com 55

Out to
In our often hectic lives, a long, lazy
brunch is the most decadent downtime
– join O as we celebrate
the best in the business
Words TONY NAYLOR

Brunch is the ultimate 21st-century mealtime. A decade

ago, this hot hybrid barely existed outside London. Now,
whether swerving work midweek or recovering late on
a Sunday, every British city centre now has multiple
venues where you can linger over great coffee, sensational
plates of eclectic food and the giddy sense of freedom
which brunch conveys. This is O’s salute to the stars
of the smashed avo scene.

56 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 discover restaurants

THE NEW CLUB, BRIGHTON

Sumptuous views of blue skies and rolling waves make this airy seafront diner
a sweet summer shout. Relax over chipotle chilli bloody marys, pancakes with
steeped blueberries, toasted granola and chantilly cream, or New Club’s pork
’n’ beans: crispy pork belly, chorizo, house beans, sumac-marinated feta and
eggs on sourdough toast. Meals from £9; thenewclubbrighton.com

CHALK COFFEE, CHESTER

Cut-above caffeine and smart brunch options, including
brioche french toast with berries and crème fraîche or eggs
on sourdough with chilli oil and paprika. Meals from £7;
chalkcoffee.co.uk

JIKONI, LONDON
Ravinder Bhogal’s “no borders kitchen” serves a wide-
ranging late weekend brunch, including fenugreek waffles,
tamarind-glazed bacon and fennel slaw, or avocado and
egg-topped muffins with yuzu and sambal. Cocktails such
KONJ, EDINBURGH
PHOTOGRAPHS: MARIANNE HAGGSTROM, RICHARD FRASER, PERCH, MATTHEW LLOYD, ELLIE GRACE PHOTOGRAPHY

as the chaat masala-spiced mimosa are similarly creative.

This Iranian café is a warm, colourful hug for the senses. Think saffron yogurt Meals from £11.50; jikonilondon.com
energy bowls, bejewelled with nuts, seeds and fruits; breakfast khorma (a kind
of Persian frittata with dates and walnuts); and fragrant dishes of smoked
aubergine mirza ghazemi or lamb stew, ghorme sabzi. Meals from £4.90;
konj.co.uk

PIG & PASTRY, YORK

Legendary ‘Bishy Road’ spot where everything bangs:
from kimchi fritters, greens, sriracha mayo and eggs, to an
epic breakfast burger of bacon, egg, sausage and cheese,
tomato relish and chipotle mayo. Meals from £3.95;
thepigandpastry.com

June 2023 Omagazine.com 57

 ANTE, EDINBURGH
By the Spry Wines team, whose small plates bar sits
above. Dishes from a constantly evolving menu
might include chorizo and fried egg brioche
sandwiches or gorgeous galettes topped with black
pudding or roast heritage carrots. Meals from £6.50.
@ante_coffee

ROSEMARINO, BRISTOL
Much-loved Clifton Italian restaurant offering a southern Med take on brunch.
Dishes include purgatorio eggs baked in ’nduja-spiced tomato sauce with
spinach and roast peppers, or provolone corn fritters with poached eggs,
smashed avocado, chilli jam, pesto and toasted seeds. Meals from £5;
rosemarino.co.uk

LAYNES, LEEDS
Since 2011, Laynes has grown organically from a third wave
coffee shop into a beloved brunch spot, recently extended
for a second time. Expect pastries from Laynes’ bakery and
classics such as its Turkish eggs or sweetcorn fritters,
alongside clever, innovative plates of, for example, corned
ox tongue bean hash with pickled onions and fried eggs.
Meals from £6.50; laynesespresso.co.uk

TAMPER, SHEFFIELD
Arguably the best of modern brunch (exceptional coffee; sunny, eclectic
Pacific Rim-influenced cooking), originated in Australia and New Zealand.
Co-founded by a Kiwi, Tamper continues that creativity in distinctive plates
of sticky toffee french toast, stout-braised salt beef eggs benedict, and DELILAH FINE FOODS, NOTTINGHAM
scrambled eggs with chillies and crab. It also serves NZ breakfast fave, spicy Treasure trove deli-café. A fantastic place to convene over
mince, on ciabatta with a poached egg and hollandaise. Meals from £6.80; smoked salmon and eggs or rarebit with poached eggs and
tampercoffee.co.uk grilled ham. Meals from £6; delilahfinefoods.co.uk

58 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 discover restaurants

HOT NUMBERS,
CAMBRIDGE
From bibimbap or huevos
rancheros to ace buttermilk
pancakes, Hot Numbers offers
variety. Eat at cosy, boho Gwydir
Street, Trumpington Street or at
Numbers’ rural bakery and roastery
HQ in Shepreth. Meals from £6.90;
hotnumberscoffee.co.uk

ESTABLISHED COFFEE,
BELFAST
BOLD STREET COFFEE, LIVERPOOL Minimalist brew lab delivering
Local flat white pioneers, who now set the brunch pace in maximum flavour. Sterling work
espresso martinis and plates of hot sauce-spiced steak and at the sourdough/eggs interface
eggs, pancake stacks and BSC’s trademark ‘buoys’. These and filled breakfast buns share
brioche buns are filled with numerous combos, such as an menu space with plates of, say,
aubergine patty with scrambled tofu, hash brown, onion pork belly with a fried egg, smoked
jam, spinach and vegan cheese. Meals from £4.95; hollandaise and remoulade. A1
boldstreetcoffee.co.uk cakes and bakes, too. Meals from
£5; established.coffee

IDLE HANDS,
MANCHESTER
This chilled indie café has several
strings to its hip bow. It is exacting
about coffee, retails natural wine
and its sweet pies (pecan, apple
salted caramel, etc) enjoy cult fame
locally. The brunch menu includes
neatly executed options, from
overnight oats or grilled cheese
sandwiches to slow-cooked
cowboy beans. Do not miss the
mushrooms on toast in fennel
cream, with salsa verde and
pickled cabbage. Meals from £6;
idlehandscoffee.com

TINY TINY, NEWCASTLE

Flat Caps Coffee has just rebranded
as Tiny Tiny but fans of this hip
space (think: canteen aesthetic,
softened by myriad pot plants),
HOVARDA, LONDON should expect the usual mixture of
Lavish breakfast spreads are prized in Turkey and Greece terrific coffee and diverting dishes
– a vibe echoed on Hovarda’s Aegean-inspired Saturday such as egg and bacon stotties,
brunch menu. It ranges far, wide and delicious, with options shakshuka or caramelised banana
including tahini porridge with pistachio and sour cherries, toastie with maple bacon ice cream.
langoustine tempura with wasabi mayo and an elaborate Meals from £6; tiny-tiny.co.uk
tava-grilled Greek cheese, courgette and pickled onion
sandwich. Meals from £10; hovarda.london

June 2023 Omagazine.com 59

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60 June 2023 magazine.com

 discover restaurants

10 STARS OF
PERCH, BIRMINGHAM
After making its name in Kings THE SUBURBS
Heath, The Early Bird Bakery
(theearlybirdbakery.co.uk) recently Brilliant brunch venues beyond the
opened city centre Perch. Expect city centre.
classy filled bagels, specials such
as pulled pork eggs benedict with • Trove, Levenshulme, Manchester
brown butter hollandaise and, says Sourdough baking stars who know how to
Birmingham chef Lap-Fai Lee, a fan top toast, too. Meals from £5.50;
of Early Bird’s croissants: “Some trovefoods.co.uk
of the best patisserie in the land.”
Meals from £6; perchbakery.co.uk • Toast, Tynemouth, near Newcastle
“Pastries, sourdough, coffee. Nice
things on toast.” What more could
you possibly want? Meals from £7;
toasttynemouth.co.uk
OFFICINA 00, FITZROVIA,
LONDON • Milkwood, Pontcanna, Cardiff
Pasta specialist whose Neapolitan- Next-level neighbourhood café. From
inspired Sunday set brunch includes kippers (yes!) to hip breakfast buns,
a luscious mini courgette focaccia; it excels at brunch. Meals from £6;
macaroni fritter with cheddar and milkwoodcardiff.com
béchamel; pork and fennel sausage
roll with aubergine caponata; • Chuku’s, Tottenham, London
comforting baked gnocchi dishes Expect modish Nigerian sharing dishes
and orange custard bomboloni and Chuku’s rum-based take on chapman
doughnuts with dark chocolate. punch. £35pp; chukuslondon.co.uk
Cocktails include Italian margaritas
or dip into the extensive wine list. • General Merchants, South Belfast
£39pp; officina00.co.uk Globally inspired sunshine food; a slice of
Sydney on Ormeau Road. Meals from £5;
generalmerchants.co.uk

SINGL-END, GARNETHILL, • Forge Bakehouse, Nether Edge, Sheffield

Brilliant, light-filled bakery-café, a tonic
GLASGOW on a sunny morning. Meals from £6;
Bakery-café with a compelling forgebakehouse.co.uk
menu of egg dishes. Poached or fried,
they top plates of, say, curried crab • Longa Café, Cardiff
cakes with hollandaise or cheddar Contemporary Turkish café serving lush
cornbread with spiced creamed corn brunch dishes and grand breakfast spreads.
and jalapeño relish. There is a second Meals from £8.50; longacafe.co.uk
Singl-end in Merchant City. Meals
from £5.75; thesingl-end.co.uk • Toast, Leith, Edinburgh
Waterfront wine café with winning brunch
dishes, from smoked haddock chowder to
lamb mince shakshuka. Meals from £6.50;
toastleith.co.uk
BALTZERSEN’S,
• Bühler and Co, Walthamstow, London
HARROGATE Easy-going vibe, high-quality food and
Swedes take meeting friends for a wide-ranging Antipodean-style brunch
coffee and food so seriously, they menu. Meals from £8; buhlerandco.com
gave it a name: fika. This Scandi-
inspired café leans into that mantra • Bristol Loaf, Redfield, Bristol
across luxurious grøt porridge bowls Bakers of organic breads and fastidious
(perhaps topped with dulce de leche, creators of granola, egg dishes, toasties
toasted almonds and apple), cinnamon and larger plates such as stroganoff with
buns from its own Bakeri Baltzersen, potato dumplings, using mushrooms from
and dishes such as the potato and Bristol Fungarium. Meals from £5.40;
beetroot hash, pyttipanne. Meals thebristolloaf.co.uk
from £7.95; baltzersens.co.uk

June 2023 Omagazine.com 61

PRO VS PUNTER

Higher Ground
Critic Tony Naylor and O reader Carolyn Ross give their verdicts on this
new British bistro which champions ingredients from the north-west

Manchester-based writer Tony Naylor Carolyn Ross is a project manager

has spent two decades writing about from Hale in Cheshire. She’s a huge
food and drink for, among others, fan of eating out – at least two, and
O, BBC Good Food, The Guardian sometimes up to four times a week –
and Observer Food Monthly. and her favourite cuisine is Japanese.

Our pro says Our punter says

The Higher Ground team spent the pandemic developing New restaurants followed by other restaurants I like on
Cinderwood Market Garden, opening Flawd and honing Instagram always offer promise. The location is slightly odd,
its style. That patient growth is paying dividends at its debut in an unassuming, modern office-type building. As soon as
restaurant, which, despite some potentially opinion-splitting we entered, though, it felt right – a huge open kitchen and
features, has opened to hugely positive word of mouth. the minimalist interior appealed. Staff were friendly and
A minimalist, glass-fronted space, Higher Ground could warm, with no pretentiousness here.
feel sterile. Instead, wrapped around an open island kitchen, The menu, changing daily, is designed for sharing. Looking
the dining room has a warm energy. The welcome is at our neighbours’ food, we decided we had to have the
confident, the music good, the service friendly and inclusive. Pitchfork cheddar tart. We chose a selection, including
None of this just happens. It takes careful thought. As does bread rolls and butter at £5 for two, which seemed steep.
the balance struck in Joseph Otway’s cooking. He combines All was forgiven when I took the first bite, with steam
heritage ingredients and their flavours in often unusual ways. escaping as I bit in. It was the best bread of my life. Celeriac
But there is nothing self-consciously clever or challenging sliced thinly, with salted blackberries, was crisp and vibrant.
about this food. Its central theme is comforting deliciousness. Tiny pea fritters were light, crisp and full of flavour. The tart
A dish of smoked kale, dressed in coal oil and zingy apple was all we expected, light pastry with sharp cheese, topped
vinegar, served on whipped goat’s cheese, pushes the with cheese shavings – delicious. The next wave included
imaginative envelope – ‘meaty’ in a way that renders meat the true star. A Shetland plaice delivered only a few hours
redundant. But any thoughts provoked by this interplay of earlier. A huge fish cooked in a BBQ oven, served with
smoke, umami, acidity, creaminess and textural density (or seaweed and brown butter sauce. Incredible value. Mashed
by, elsewhere, how Otway inverts fish pie: bathing broccoli potato with almost more smoked butter than potato was
in smoked haddock béchamel, making vegetables the star), the perfect accompaniment. Light, buttery, smooth, we
are subtle and secondary to his main aim: providing pleasure. scraped the bowl. Cavatelli pasta that an Italian nonna
Similarly, pea fritters deliver a profound legume hit, but would be proud of, with a wild garlic sauce and Spenwood
under a snowdrift of Quicke’s cheddar. Potato skins with cheese, was full of flavour.
soured cream and leek oil are, arguably, a super-elevated A bilberry crème brûlée was sharp and smooth. Rhubarb
beer snack. A mushroom-powered porridge of oats, spelt and custard was tangy, with the creamiest custard topped
and wheat berries is luxuriously earthy, paired with acorn- with frosted bread. Cane sugar ice cream, served with
reared pork, ridged with incredible crackling. biscuits with no sweetness, was the perfect marriage.
Intelligent in its conception and generous in spirit, This was a memorable meal. Something so special that
Higher Ground already feels fully realised. Is this instant several hours later we were still talking about it. Everything
hit Manchester’s best restaurant? Quite possibly. was spot on. We can’t wait to return.

BILL FOR TWO, INCLUDING SERVICE: £163.90 BILL FOR TWO, INCLUDING SERVICE: £114.40
ATMOSPHERE: 9 ATMOSPHERE: 9
SERVICE: 9 SERVICE: 10
FOOD: 9 FOOD: 10
TOTAL: 27/30 TOTAL: 29/30

62 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 discover restaurant review

Created by the team behind acclaimed natural wine

bar, Flawd, Higher Ground restaurant is a bigger
showcase for chef Joseph Otway’s creative use of
British, seasonal, sustainable produce. Opened in
February at Faulkner House, this hip restaurant is
buying in whole animals from small rare-breed
producers and using flavour-forward local, heritage
ingredients, many from its Nantwich partner farm,
Cinderwood Market Garden. Expect to see this
superlative produce deployed in dishes such as
home-smoked beetroot and brill roe, salt-baked
celeriac, bay leaf and preserved blueberries, bone-
in pork chop with nasturtium dressing, or burnt
Manchester honey tart. highergroundmcr.co.uk

June 2023 Omagazine.com 63

TRY
What is MASTIC?
THIS MONTH
MASTIC, OR MASTIHA, IS A PEARLESCENT RESIN GUM THAT
COMES FROM TREES GROWN ON THE ISLAND OF CHIOS IN
GREECE. IT’S OFTEN USED IN GREEK, TURKISH AND NORTH
AFRICAN CUISINES, AND HAS A SLIGHTLY MUSKY, WOODY,
VANILLA-LIKE FLAVOUR WITH HINTS OF PINE AND MENTHOL
with Gurdeep Loyal
THAT MAKES IT A GOOD MATCH FOR BOTH SAVOURY AND
SWEET DISHES. IT CAN ALSO BE USED TO MAKE LIQUEUR.
THE TINY RESIN PEBBLES ARE USUALLY GROUND TO
Our trends expert shares a recipe
A POWDER, WHICH EXTRACTS THE MOST
FLAVOUR. IT’S AN INGREDIENT LOVED BY
featuring versatile Greek mastic,
CHEFS SUCH AS ESRA MUSLU AT ZAHTER IN and explores the hidden gems

PHOTOGRAPH: MYLES NEW. SHOOT DIRECTOR: EMMA WINCHESTER. STYLING: ZOE HARRINGTON. FOOD STYLING: KATIE MARSHALL. OTHER PHOTOGRAPHS: PAUL COOKLIN/MOMENT OPEN/GETTY, REBECCA DICKSON
LONDON, SAM AND SAM CLARK AT MORO/
MORITO, AND FOOD WRITER GEORGINA of the Suffolk seaside
HAYDEN. FIND IT AT OLIVEOLOGY,
SOUSCHEF.CO.UK OR STEENBERGS.CO.UK. Apricot, orange and raspberry
cake with mastic
SERVES 8 | PREP 25 MINS PLUS COOLING
COOK 1 HR 5 MINS | EASY

160ml good-quality olive oil, plus extra for the tin

50ml fresh orange juice, plus 2 tsp zest (2-3 oranges)
225g golden caster sugar
2 tsp mastic powder
125g dried apricots, finely diced
150g self-raising flour
50g ground almonds
¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda
3 eggs
125g raspberries
whipped cream, to serve

1 Heat the oven to 185C/165C fan/gas 4 with a baking

sheet inside on the middle shelf. Brush a 20cm round
springform cake tin all over with oil and line the bottom
with baking paper. Tip the orange zest and juice, 75g of
the sugar, the mastic powder and 50ml of water into a
pan. Bring to the boil, then add the dried apricots, mixing
well. Simmer over a medium heat for 6-8 mins or until
the liquid has reduced by half and there is a honey-like
orange syrup coating the fruit. Transfer to a bowl and
leave to cool completely.
2 Whisk together the flour, almonds, bicarb and a pinch
of salt in a separate large bowl. Whisk together the eggs
and remaining 150g of sugar in a stand mixer fitted with
the whisk attachment for 4-5 mins on a medium-high
speed until thick and ribbon-like when the beaters are
lifted out. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the
oil until it is all incorporated. Carefully fold in the dry
ingredients until no patches of flour remain, being careful
not to overmix. Gently fold in the syrupy apricots.
3 Pour the mixture into the prepared tin, then scatter over
the raspberries. Bake on the hot baking sheet in the oven
for 50-55 mins or until a skewer inserted into the middle
comes out clean and the cake is dark golden brown on
top. Remove from the tin, invert onto a plate, remove the
baking paper and cool slightly. Serve warm or cold with
whipped cream.

PER SERVING 468 kcals | fat 25.7G | saturates 3.7G

carbs 50.6G | sugars 36.1G | fibre 3G | protein 6.9G | salt 0.4G

64 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 discover trends

TRAVEL TREAT
Colin Nicholson, head
chef at Mingary
Castle, Kilchoan,
Scotland
The first time I saw
Mingary Castle on
the west coast of
Scotland in Ardnamurchan Estate,
I had to do a double take, as it was
extraordinary – likewise is Colin
Nicholson’s brilliant cooking.
“I was raised on North Uist and had
a keen interest in cooking growing up.
At 16, I worked with John Buchanan
of Langass Lodge, who taught me
many skills, from butchering venison

Aldeburgh, Suffolk
Aldeburgh, a small seaside town in Suffolk, is famous for its annual
to working with local seafood.
“We’re lucky to have great produce
and a community garden for fruit and
veg. I love our oyster ice cream, a
music festival, and something of a hot gastronomic ticket. Nestled at
seafood snack that guests start with.
its heart is The Suffolk – home to Sur Mer, a restaurant with a rooftop
It’s creamy, sweet and salty, paired
terrace with sea views and six individually designed rooms. Its menu
with foraged sea lettuce powder.
includes dishes such as dressed Suffolk crab with pickled cucumber,
Another is our hand-dived scallop
and Pump Street dark chocolate tart. The Lighthouse, meanwhile, serves simple home-cooked fare
tartare with buttermilk dressing (a
with a neighbourhood vibe – including its very own Lighthouse 77 gin, which includes botanicals such
by-product of making our own butter),
as heather and liquorice. Sea Spice is a beautiful restaurant that combines local Suffolk produce with
served in a scallop shell with seaweed
flavourful Indian cooking. The beach is lined with shacks selling boxes of prawns and smoked fish
crisps, from a seaweed farm down
from local artisans including Butley Oysterage. And, like all great coastal towns, there’s the iconic
the loch from the castle.”
Aldeburgh Fish & Chips made the traditional Suffolk way – fried in beef dripping!
mingarycastle.co.uk

TRANSFORM
Native British ‘spices’
Chefs including Tommy Banks of The Black
Swan are getting inventive with British
herbs, using them like spices. Hogweed
seeds provide citrussy, cardamom-like
flavour; spignel tastes of celery seed; and
wood avens has notes of mulled spice.

Gurdeep Loyal is a food and drink trends specialist who built his career working at Harrods Food Halls, Innocent Drinks and M&S Food.
He’s also a food writer and curator of online platform Mother Tongue. Find more recipes in Gurd’s new book, Mother Tongue. @gurd_loyal

June 2023 Omagazine.com 65

 THE
MEASURE
Swing into summer with pink tequila,
sophisticated spritzes and smoky BBQ drinks

HOME BAR HACKS

Switch up your spritz game
There’s little that can beat a crisp and
3 Mezcal mule
-INGREDIENT COCKTAIL

Match earthy mezcal with spicy

bubbly spritz in the summer. A wine- ginger beer for a smoky yet
based cocktail with fizz, a bitter liqueur refreshing cocktail that’s perfect
and a splash of sparkling water – the perfect for barbecues.
ratio for a spritz is 3:2:1, using the same order
of ingredients. Don’t just use Aperol – Campari Scatter a couple of teaspoons of
or Cynar give more complex, grown-up chilli salt (we used Mexican brand,
flavours, or copy the Venetians and use Tajin) onto a saucer. Run a lime wedge
herbal Select Aperitivo, garnished with around the rim of a highball glass and
a green olive. Fortified wines such as dip the glass into the chilli salt. Stir
vermouth or Lillet also work. 50ml of mezcal and 25ml of lime
Experiment with other base ingredients. Tequila, grapefruit juice (use more if you want a zestier
juice and sparkling wine make a next-level paloma, for drink as the ginger beer will be very
example. You can also use wines other than prosecco. sweet) with plenty of ice in the glass,
Champagne and cava are drier and more biscuity, while still top with ginger beer and serve.
white wine with Campari turns your spritz into a bicicletta. Garnish with lime wedges.
Alternatively, take a shortcut by using José Pizarro’s new
cava cocktails set, featuring a bottle of José’s own full-bodied
cava and two cocktail mixers. Fruta de la Pasión features
tropical passion fruit vodka and vanilla, while Puesta del
Sol uses apricot and vermouth, with subtle bitterness
(£39, shop.josepizarro.com).
PERFECT HOST
Oliver Bonas
THIS MONTH mahogany drinks
WE’RE DRINKING... trolley (£445,
oliverbonas.com)
Zippy colour and
Komos Reposado Rosa Tequila
vintage styling make
(£115/70cl, The Whisky Exchange)
Pink tequila typically gets its colour from this drinks trolley a
barrel-ageing, as is the case with premium must-buy for your
brand Komos’s reposado expression. Aged home bar. Gold wheels
for two months in Californian red wine barrels, on the legs let you
which tinges the spirit a delicate blush hue, move it around at
it’s full of summery red berry notes as well as parties – perfect for a
grassy agave herbaceous character. Enjoy in a mobile aperitivo hour.
refreshing long drink with soda or tonic water.

66 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 discover drinks
WORDS: HANNAH GUINNESS @HANNAHGUINNESS. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, BRIAN HAGIWARA/THE IMAGE BANK, LARRY WASHBURN/FSTOP, ANA ROCIO GARCIA FRANCO/MOMENT/GETTY, JANOS GRAPOW

THE DONOVAN BAR, MAYFAIR, LONDON

Where? Tucked away in Brown’s Hotel, The Donovan Bar is ideal for
cocktails in a low-key, luxurious setting. The bar is named after 60s
photographer Terence Donovan, whose black and white photography
adorns the space, while cocktails are co-created by powerhouse
bartender Salvatore Calabrese. Best seats are at the sleek, glass-topped
bar, where you can watch your drink whipped up in front of you.

What to order? Not Shaken, Not Stirred is a delicious cross between a

martini and an espresso martini, with Cîroc vodka, Lucano coffee cordial
and coffee caviar. Another hit, Read Between the Lines, gives an old
fashioned some buttery, saline oomph with salted-butter-washed
Dewar’s whisky. Lighter cocktails include the Honey Bear, refreshing and
tart with Campari and rhubarb cordial, plus Normandy cider, adding
fruity funkiness. roccofortehotels.com

Bartender’ s tip
Federico Pavan, director of mixology
Making cocktails at home can be easy and fuss-free, even without the
correct equipment. There are so many alternatives you can use, such as
recycled items from your kitchen cupboard. For example, instead of a
cocktail shaker, you can use a mason/jam jar, and instead of a strainer
you can use a sieve.
Get a 360 tour and see more
of the action at The Donovan Bar
at Omagazine.com and
on our socials.

June 2023 Omagazine.com 67

 Try
e t h i ng
som
e w for
n
2023

MEET KAREN
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 discover wine

5-MINUTE NEW BOTTLES TO BUY

WINE EXPERT SERIES

PART 3: GLASSWARE
with Kate Hawkings
Get the most out of what you’re drinking
with our monthly crash course in wine.
Next up, discover why picking the right
glass makes all the difference
The one single thing you can do to
maximise the pleasure of your wine is
to drink it from a decent glass. Do this
simple experiment: take a tall, straight-
Contesa Cerasuolo Ramon Bilbao Límite Vinha do Fava
sided glass and a tulip-shaped wine glass
d’Abruzzo 2022 Norte 2017 (£19.95, Touriga Nacional
that tapers towards the top. Pour a little
(£8.95, thewine The Great Wine Co) 2021 (£12.99,
wine into each, no more than one third
society.com) Stunning white rioja laithwaites.co.uk)
full, then swirl it around and sniff deeply
Wonderfully vibrant made from the Cracking red made
from each glass.
dark rosé, bright with unusual tempranillo from one of Portugal’s
The smell of the wine in the straight
crunchy cranberry blanco and maturana signature native
glass will be muted and flat while that
and strawberry fruit grapes. Grown at grapes in Península
in the tulip glass will be much more
along with savoury 450m altitude, de Setúbal, a region
open and expressive. Swirling it in
earthiness and a pink which gives a zesty better known for
the rounded bowl releases flavour
grapefruit zing. Juicy freshness to its sweet white wines.
and aroma compounds into the
and thirst quenching subtle, creamy Brambly black fruits
bulbous space above which are
but with enough body richness. Try it with with a floral softness
funnelled to your nose by the
to stand up to food – the basil, taleggio and some woody
narrowing of the glass. Then taste the
great with the prawn and pickled walnut spice that make it
wine: the straight glass will direct it
caesar salad on p20. grilled cheese on a brilliant choice for
down the middle of your tongue, whereas
meaty barbecues.
the rounded sides of the wine glass allow it to
coat the sides and the roof of your mouth better,
maximising exposure to flavour receptors. For
sparkling wines, flutes help hold the bubbles in the SPEEDY SERVE
Rosé vermouth
glass but their narrow top impedes the expression of
aromas, while modish coupettes let both dissipate
quickly, so a tulip shape is best for these, too. Stems on
glasses are not essential but they prevent the warmth Pink drinks fly off the shelves,
from your hand raising the temperature of the wine. especially in summer, so it’s no
Some wine glasses are very much better than others. surprise that vermouth is getting
The hand-blown Zalto Universals are highly favoured, in on the act. Try The Aperitivo
though their fine stems can induce high blood pressure Co’s new rose-scented Sofia
when polishing; the copycat machine-made Gabriel-Glas (£21.75, The Whisky Exchange)
is more affordable and sturdy. I prefer the Jancis
or Lustau’s spicier Vermut Rosé
Robinson/Richard Brendon collaboration – a glass to
suit any wine that can fit in a dishwasher, and with a
(£11, Waitrose). Serve neat, well
fine rim to ease the passage of wine to your mouth. chilled; mix with equal parts of gin
For everyday drinking, Ikea’s Storsint wine as a wet martini; or double up
glasses serve their purpose very well on the pinkness and make a long
and, at £13 for six, if they do smash drink with The London Essence
it won’t break the bank. Co’s pink grapefruit soda and ice.

Omagazine.com
• Learn more about wine at Omagazine.com, from new grapes worth trying to the best wine subscriptions.

KATE HAWKINGS IS A WRITER AND WINE CONSULTANT. HER LATEST BOOK, THE LITTLE BOOK OF APERITIFS: 50 CLASSIC COCKTAILS AND
DELIGHTFUL DRINKS, IS OUT NOW (£10, QUADRILLE). FOLLOW HER ON TWITTER @KATEHAWKINGS.

June 2023 Omagazine.com 69

 COOK LIKE A LOCAL

Malta
Simon Bajada introduces
the sunshine flavours of this
unique Mediterranean island

70 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 discover cook like a local

Bragioli (beef olives)

For celebratory occasions, Maltese families are sure to grace
the table with bragioli. Each household has its own version,
with some using boiled eggs in the stuffing and others
braising the olives in tomato ragu or adding spice. My recipe
honours the dish’s fundamentals, using old bread and smoked
pork, and peas to finish the sauce.

SERVES 4-6 | PREP 30 MINS | COOK 1 HR 15 MINS | EASY

250g minced pork

250g minced beef
100g smoked speck or bacon, diced
1 onion, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
50g fresh breadcrumbs
50g parmesan, grated
2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
8 thinly cut topside or round beef steaks (600g total)
1 tbsp olive oil
SAUCE
1 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Sun-drenched and plonked in the middle of the 1 medium carrot, grated
Mediterranean, the islands of Malta and Gozo 1 tbsp olive oil
have formed a unique cuisine shaped by their 2 tbsp tomato purée
250ml red wine (a slightly sweet wine works well)
geography and occupiers past. 250ml beef stock
The emerald blue coves and bays are 2 bay leaves
stunning, and brimming with sea life. Seafood 150g peas, rinsed if frozen

is consumed often but more as an everyday 1 To make the stuffing, combine the minced meats, speck,
food rather than for festive occasions, when onion, garlic, breadcrumbs, parmesan and parsley in a large
warm, iconic, hearty dishes such as timpana bowl. Season well and mix thoroughly.
2 Using a mallet or heavy glass bottle, pound the steaks
and bragioli are served. between pieces of baking paper until 5mm-1cm thick –
Tomatoes abound in dishes, fresh, but also thinner is better but be careful not to tear the meat. Take an
cooked into ragus or made into a paste to use eighth of the filling and put it in the middle of a flattened
steak. Fold one end of the steak over the filling, tuck in the
on bread. Pasta dishes here can be likened to sides and roll up. Secure with toothpicks or tie with kitchen
those in Sicily and Italy but with twists and string and put on a plate, seam-side down. Continue to
turns. Examples are the vermicelli omelette, make rolls with the remaining steaks and stuffing. Season
the rolls on both sides.
ghagin grieg (made like a risotto), or in kusksu, 3 Heat a heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat and
a soup which uses pasta beads. Marrows can add the oil and beef olives. Gently colour them on two
be found at the corner store, year round, small sides, then transfer to a plate. In the same pan, begin the
sauce by frying the onion, garlic and carrot with the olive
to be delicately cooked and drizzled in olive oil oil over a medium heat. Cook for 5 mins without browning,
or larger to be stuffed with meat. then add the tomato purée, wine, stock, bay, some
Given the proximity to North Africa, a seasoning and the beef olives. The liquid should come
at least a third of the way up the beef, so top up with
sprinkling of spice can be found in desserts, water if needed.
which often feature dates and citrus, and 4 Put a lid over the pan and simmer over a low heat for
Catholic holidays are often observed with a 1 hr. Turn the olives after 30 mins and check the liquid level,
adding water if necessary. Finish with the peas, cooking for
sweet treat attached. a few minutes more. Remove from the heat and allow to sit
After many years of pleasing tourists with for 10 mins before serving.
typical European fare, Maltese chefs are now
PER SERVING (6) 573 kcals | fat 32.9G
unafraid to get behind their traditions and
saturates 13.2G | carbs 12.1G | sugars 6.1G
re-interpret their classics both for visitors and fibre 3.7G | protein 47.5G | salt 1.1G
locals. It’s an exciting time for Maltese cuisine
and, given the enthusiasm and quality of its
local produce, it’s only going to get better
and better.

June 2023 Omagazine.com 71

discover cook like a local

Froġa tat-tarja (vermicelli and parmesan pie) Maltese coffee granita and whipped ricotta
This curious pie, made without dough and cooked on the SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS FREEZING
stovetop, is thought to have been developed by home cooks COOK 10 MINS | EASY | GF
with left-over pasta. Here is the classic version but other
30g freshly ground coffee beans
ingredients including roasted vegetables or flavour bombs
2 tsp roasted ground chicory root
such as capers, sun-dried tomatoes and olives can be added 100g sugar
to the mixture – you may need to include a bit more cheese 1
/2 tsp ground cloves
and egg to bind. 1
/2 tsp ground aniseed
2 egg whites
SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY | LC
WHIPPED RICOTTA
400g ricotta
220g vermicelli, angel hair pasta or spaghettini grated zest of 1/2 lemon
2 eggs 1½ tbsp runny honey
50g parmesan, grated, plus extra to serve 1 tbsp milk
2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 garlic clove, crushed 1 Heat 500ml of water in a pan with the coffee, chicory,
100ml whole milk sugar and spices until just simmering. Turn the heat to very
1 tbsp olive oil low and keep the mixture below simmering for 7 mins. Pour
1 tbsp butter through a paper coffee filter or three layers of muslin into a
TOMATO SALAD bowl and cool.
4 large ripe tomatoes, sliced 2 Whisk the egg whites in a separate mixing bowl until
1
/2 red onion, thinly sliced foamy. Whisk in the coffee mixture, then pour into a wide
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil glass or ceramic dish and freeze for 1 hr. Use a fork to
2 tsp red wine vinegar scrape the ice crystals from the edges of the dish and blend
2 tbsp roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley them into the unfrozen centre. Return to the freezer and
repeat three or four times every 30-40 mins or until the
1 Boil the pasta in well-salted water for a minute or so less mixture has ice crystals throughout.
than the pack recommends. Drain and rinse with cold water. 3 Meanwhile, break up the ricotta in a mixing bowl with a
2 In a large bowl, whisk the remaining ingredients except whisk. Add the zest, honey and milk, and whisk until it has
the oil and butter. Stir in the pasta until evenly combined. a smooth but firm consistency similar to cake frosting (you
Heat the oil and butter in a 25cm pan over a low-medium may need a little more milk). To serve, scoop some ricotta
heat. Use a pastry brush to brush the oil up the sides of the onto plates or bowls and make wells in the centre with the
pan. Tip in the pasta, then flatten and press it down with the back of the spoon. Scoop the coffee granita into the wells.
bottom of a plate. Cook for 3 mins, then check to see if
there is a golden crust developing on the base – be sure not
PER SERVING 278 kcals | fat 11.2G
to burn it or it can become bitter. When golden, put a large
saturates 7G | carbs 32.9G | sugars 32.5G
plate on top of the pan and carefully flip the pan and plate
upside down, dropping the pasta onto the plate. Slide the fibre 0.1G | protein 11.4G | salt 0.3G
pasta back into the pan.
3 Cook for another 3 mins. While the pasta is cooking, lay
the tomato slices over a wide bowl and scatter over the
onion. Season and drizzle with the oil and vinegar. Scatter
with the parsley. Serve the vermicelli pie with the tomato
salad and some extra parmesan, if you like. Recipes extracted from Malta by Simon
Bajada (£26, Hardie Grant). Photographs:
PER SERVING 411 kcals | fat 17G | saturates 6.7G
Simon Bajada. Recipes are sent by the
carbs 45.9G | sugars 5.9G | fibre 3.8G | protein 16.6G | salt 0.4G
publisher and not retested by us.

72 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 Book your tickets

15 - 18 June 2023
NEC Birmingham
Entertainment | Tasting
Shopping | Inspiration

Includes
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y to

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 THINGS YOU NEED
TO KNOW ABOUT
Emilia-Romagna
Executive chef Filippo La Gattuta, shares his favourite producers from
a region of Italy famed for its food and drink

produce balsamic vinegar as well as fizz.

1 PARMIGIANO REGGIANO
Parmigiano reggiano is an art in Emilia-
Romagna. The Big Mamma Group sources all
3 PROSCIUTTO DI PARMA
Up in the hills near the border with
Tuscany lies Prosciuttificio San Nicola, a
Grape juice is pressed, cooked, then
fermented and aged for a minimum of
its parmigiano from Caseificio Gennari, who producer of silky PDO Prosciutto di Parma. 12 years in wooden barrels. The gradual
have been making cheese by hand for 70 years The ham (which can only be made from the process of evaporation (70 litres of grape
and now make 100 wheels of parmigiano per back legs of large white pigs who’ve had a juice produces three litres of vinegar)
day. It’s DOP protected and must be aged specific diet) is salted (no other flavourings or produces the glossy, sweet and intense
for a minimum of 12 months to classify as additives are used) and passes through several final result. You only need a few drops.
parmigiano – but ageing can last as long as different ageing chambers to gradually cure
an intense 100 months. Every 40kg wheel over a year.
of parmesan uses around 500 litres of milk,
giving rich, creamy and nutty results.
6 GNOCCO FRITTO
Gnocco fritto are squares of dough made
with lard and then deep-fried into light, puffy
4 CULATELLO DI ZIBELLO
Culatello, another extra-special DOP
ham from San Nicola, is another favourite.
pillows. They’re a moreish starter or aperitivo
snack, served with salamis, parma ham or
2 LAMBRUSCO
Forget any preconceptions you may have
of lambrusco. Organic vineyard Venturini
Made from the thighs of pigs raised in
Emilia-Romagna, this large egg-shaped ham
culatello to lay on top for the perfect bite.

Baldini produces varied styles of sparkling red is one of Italy’s most luxurious salumi and
and rosé lambrusco, and aims to restore the
reputation of this local indigenous grape.
an antipasti favourite. 7 FILLED PASTA
From flat square tortelli to tiny cappelletti
(commonly served in clear broth), filled pastas
The fermenting methods used are similar to are an Emilian staple. You can learn how to
champagne production and the resulting
lambrusco is best served chilled at aperitivo
5 BALSAMIC VINEGAR
Making balsamic vinegar is a labour of love
and you have to be patient. Venturini Baldini
make delicate tortelloni (a larger and slightly
different shape to tortellini) the traditional
hour or the start of a meal. uses its 32 hectares of lambrusco grapes to hand-rolled way by experts at the Portici

74 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 discover 10 things

from far left

Parmigiano reggiano can
be aged for as long as 100
months; Emilia-Romagna
is home to lambrusco, a
sparkling wine; Prosciuttificio
San Nicola making beautifully
silky parma ham

Academy in Bologna (porticiacademy.it),

then enjoy them filled with creamy spinach
and ricotta, and tossed in sage butter to serve.

8 MORTADELLA
You’ll find mortadella in varied forms
across the region – find it cut into cubes and
served with chunks of parmesan for aperitivo,
sliced thinly into sandwiches or even draped
onto pizza. With its distinctive marbled pink
appearance (it must contain at least 15%
small cubes of fat) and studded with black
peppercorns or bright pistachios, this is a
cooked rather than cured product and
Bologna mortadella carries PGI status,
which means it can only be made a certain
way within specified areas.

9 ERBAZZONE
Erbazzone is a flat pie commonly eaten
for lunch, particularly in the summer months.
Not too dissimilar to a Greek spanakopita, the
thin and shatteringly crisp pastry (traditionally
WORDS: LUCY ROXBURGH. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, LAURA MANISCALCO

made with lard) holds a filling of spinach, ham

or pancetta and the all-important parmigiano.

10 GELATO
No Emilia-Romagna tour is complete
without a daily gelato – after all, the world’s
only gelato university is just outside Bologna.
I like family-run ice cream parlour Cremeria
Cavour in Bologna, which has a dizzying
array of flavours – try the Piazza Grande
with amaretto and caramelised almonds,
or go for tangy fresh raspberry and top with
a scoop of whipped cream.

Filippo La Gattuta is the UK executive chef of the restaurant group Big Mamma, owners of Gloria, Circolo Popolare, Ave Mario, Jacuzzi and, on
12 May, Carlotta on Marylebone High Street. Big Mamma is a B Corp company, which highlights a commitment not just to the provenance of
products but also balances profit with people and the planet. bigmammagroup.com

June 2023 Omagazine.com 75

advertisement feature

A LITTLE SURPRISE
The newest addition to the LU biscuit range, Le Petit
Ganache is the perfect way to make someone’s day
We all know that small gestures can make golden with a delicious crunch and an
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Completely different to any other biscuit day. Like every LU biscuit, you can taste the
in the range, Le Petit Ganache is delicately love in every bite.

76 June 2023 magazine.com

 advertisement feature

Three other ways to show you care

the French way:
A plateful of passion fish, meat or vegetables in oil or animal
In true French style, LU started with fat. It’s perfect for creating rich, meltingly
a love story. It all began in 1846 in the tender date night dishes that are sure to
city of Nantes, when two young bakers, impress, such as confit duck leg.
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1 Make croissants
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Traditional croissants really are a labour
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3 Host a cheese and wine
night at home
An evening of French cheese and wine
has a soft texture and a delicate lemon tasting is a wonderful way to treat your
flavour, and Le Petit Biscotte, which is
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2 Confit your meat
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Great for when you want to make
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To find out more and #TasteTheLove, visit lubakery.co.uk

or follow @LU.UKandI on Facebook and Instagram

June 2023 magazine.com 77

O
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78 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 UNWIND
Put aside some time this weekend to
recreate a next-level pub menu from
celebrated local The Parakeet, pick up
some tips from baker Edd Kimber on how
to get the most out of a smaller kitchen,
and find a sunny spot to enjoy Rosie
Birkett’s summery feta and tomato salad
PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID COTSWORTH

June 2023 Omagazine.com 79

 PUB MENU
The Parakeet
Get a 360 tour and see more of
the action at The Parakeet
at Omagazine.com
and on our socials.

80 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 unwind weekend menu

Cool interiors meets elevated pub food from

head chef Ben Allen in this year’s most celebrated
opening in north London’s Kentish Town

June 2023 Omagazine.com 81

Asparagus, nettles and almond Lamb chop, broad beans and wild garlic
At The Parakeet, wild nettles are used in this earthy starter. “When SERVES 4-6 | PREP 1 HR 15 MINS | COOK 4 HRS | MORE EFFORT
picking nettles remember to go deeper inland to avoid contaminated
nettles,” advises head chef Ben Allen. “Pick the leaves with gloves on 1kg lamb bones
and always wash before cooking.” If you’re not a seasoned forager, 75ml grapeseed oil, plus 11/2 tbsp
we advise using spinach as a replacement to the nettles. 4 round shallots, 2 roughly chopped, 2 finely chopped
2 onions, roughly chopped
SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 25 MINS 500g chestnut mushrooms, roughly chopped
MORE EFFORT | GF 1 tsp coriander seeds
1 heaped tsp each of black peppercorns, fennel seeds
AJO BLANCO and white peppercorns
130g blanched almonds 300ml white wine
200ml almond milk 1 litre chicken stock
½ tbsp sherry vinegar 150g wild garlic, plus a few leaves, finely chopped
1 garlic clove 300g broad beans
NETTLE PURÉE 8 good quality lamb chops
260g nettles or spinach small handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
½ tsp chardonnay vinegar small handful of mint, finely chopped
lemon juice, to taste
12 spears of asparagus 1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and roast the lamb bones
4 tbsp nutritional yeast flakes on a baking tray for 20 mins until dark. Meanwhile, heat 1 tbsp
3 tbsp toasted almond flakes of oil in a deep pan over a medium heat and cook the roughly
chopped shallots, onions, mushrooms and spices for 10 mins until
1 Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Gently toast the almonds caramelised. Deglaze the pan with the wine for 5 mins until reduced
for 18-20 mins or until golden and cooked through. Cool slightly by half, then add the stock and the bones from the oven. Bring to a
before blending with the remaining ajo blanco ingredients until simmer and leave to cook, uncovered, for at least 3 hrs. Strain the
smooth. Pass through a sieve for a smoother consistency. If it mixture, discarding the solids. Put the sauce back over a medium-
seems a little thick, add a splash more milk – it should be the low heat and bring to a steady simmer, reducing the sauce for
consistency of natural yogurt. Season to taste. 15 mins until thickened and glossy.
2 Meanwhile, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Blanch 2 Blend 150g of wild garlic with 75ml of oil until smooth. Pass
the nettles for 1 min then immediately refresh in iced water, keeping through a fine sieve until you get wild garlic oil.
the cooking water in the pan. Blend the nettles until smooth, then 3 Blanch the beans in boiling water for 1 min. Depod the beans.
pass through a sieve. Stir in the vinegar and season to taste with Season the lamb chops generously with salt. Heat a large frying
salt and a squeeze of lemon juice. pan over a high heat and sear the lamb for 2-3 mins on each side
3 Trim the woody ends of the asparagus. Cut the spears in half and or until deeply golden brown – do this in batches. Take off the heat
blanch the tips in the same water as the nettles for 1 min. Put them and set aside, loosely covered, to rest for 5 mins.
in iced water to stop the cooking process and keep them green. 4 Meanwhile, put the remaining oil into a sauté pan over a medium
Thinly julienne the remaining ends and add to the iced water. heat. Add the finely chopped shallots, cooking for 3-4 mins until
4 Heat a large frying pan over a medium-low heat. Toast the yeast softened but not coloured. Add the herbs and remaining wild garlic
flakes for 3-4 mins or until golden brown, then set aside. Do the with the broad beans and briefly heat through. Remove from the
same with the almond flakes for 1-2 mins. Drain the asparagus. heat and toss with a little of the wild garlic oil.
5 Divide the ajo blanco between four plates, top with the 5 Gently reheat the lamb sauce. Put the broad beans on a plate
asparagus, add the nettle purée and then dust with the yeast with the lamb chops, finishing with a generous drizzle of the lamb
and almond flakes. sauce and some of the wild garlic oil, too.

PER SERVING 343 kcals | fat 25.7G | saturates 2.1G PER SERVING (6) 500 kcals | fat 34.5G | saturates 13.1G
carbs 5.4G | sugars 3.4G | fibre 7.3G | protein 18.8G | salt 0.1G carbs 6.8G | sugars 3.7G | fibre 5.6G | protein 33.7G | salt 0.8G

82 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 unwind weekend menu

Chocolate torte
SERVES 8-10 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS 30 MINS CHILLING
COOK 50 MINS | EASY

40g unsalted butter, plus extra for the tin

150g digestive biscuits
50g toasted hazelnuts, plus 1-2 extra for grating
½ tbsp runny honey
50g soft dark brown sugar
185ml double cream
115ml full-fat milk
300g 64% dark chocolate, finely chopped
2 eggs, lightly beaten
385ml double cream
zest of 1/2 an orange
1 tsp vanilla paste

1 Butter and line a 20cm springform tin. Blitz the biscuits

and toasted hazelnuts to a fine crumb in a food processor.
Warm the butter, honey and sugar in a pan over a medium
heat for 5 mins until melted and combined. Add to the
biscuit mixture and combine. Press into the base of the
lined tin, using the back of a spoon to level out. Leave to
set in the fridge for 30 mins.
2 Heat the oven to 110C/90C/gas 1/4. Bring the milk and
cream to a boil in a pan. Put the chocolate into a large
bowl and pour over the cream mixture, mixing until smooth.
Whisk in the eggs until combined and glossy, then pour this
over the biscuit base. Bake for 40 mins until just set. Leave
to cool to room temperature. Chill if not eating straight
away and leave for 1 hr before slicing.
3 Whisk the double cream with the orange zest and vanilla
paste until just firm. Just before serving, grate the remaining
hazelnuts over the torte. Slice the torte and serve with
spoonfuls of the cream.

PER SERVING (10) 632 kcals | fat 53.1G

saturates 29.6G | carbs 30.5G | sugars 21.1G
fibre 3.4G | protein 6.3G | salt 0.4G
RECIPES: BEN ALLEN. PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID COTSWORTH

Being north Londoners and former Brat chefs, Ben Allen and Ed Jennings are the perfect pair to bring The Parakeet to Kentish Town. With
dark interiors, stained glass windows and a warm glow cast over the intimate booths, there’s a church-like feel, which makes sense given
the religious following from locals. With Ben at the helm as head chef (pictured), the menu is informed by the wood-fired oven and grill, and
includes grilled lettuce and shrimp head butter, leeks with pecorino sauce, and smoked mushrooms with mackerel. theparakeetpub.com

June 2023 Omagazine.com 83

 KITCHENS TO COVET
a creative space
Baker Edd Kimber used
simple, clever hacks to
bring warmth and
practicality his compact
north-east London kitchen

Get a 360 tour of Edd’s

kitchen at Omagazine.com
and on our socials.

84 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 unwind kitchen style

I am Edd, a baker and cookbook author. I live in north-east London with

my partner, Mike, and our dog, Wesley.
The kitchen is rather small, basically a square. It does benefit from a
large bay window, which means it’s flooded with natural light, especially
in the summer. The kitchen units are painted in a rusty red and cream to
add personality and some warmth. One wall is home to my little baking
corner: my ingredients shelves and my workbench. We inherited the
countertops, which stain ridiculously easily, so are the bane of my life.
The flooring is a wonderfully warm engineered oak in a classic
herringbone pattern.
We haven’t done huge amounts to the kitchen but we designed it to
maximise its utility and make it a nicer place for me to work. Because
it’s a relatively small space with no island, I would have to stare at the
walls all day, so I commissioned a metal fabricator who specialises in
equipment for bakeries to make me a workbench on castor wheels.
It means I have a better workspace and it can be positioned almost like
an island. We also added custom shelving for my baking ingredients.
One of the most important changes was colour. When we bought
the flat, the kitchen was a depressing grey, which we hated, but it was
relatively new so it felt wasteful to rip it out. Instead, we painted it
ourselves, using Rust-oleum kitchen cabinet paint. We chose a two-tone
effect – the upper cabinets are painted with Longsands light cream,
which added warmth but kept the space bright and reflects the light
when the sun comes through the window. For the lower cabinets, we
went with Fire Brick red to make it a bit more personal. We also fill the
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID COTSWORTH

space with greenery to give a bit of softness and life to the room.
The idea was to transform the kitchen without major work and that
came from the colour scheme. Mike found a cabinet maker in France
that used a similar scheme and we just loved it. Thankfully the painting
was relatively simple. Even though the changes we made were small, they
were tailored to how we use the kitchen. Spending time thinking about
what we wanted and how we actually use it really helped us create
something that worked for us.

June 2023 Omagazine.com 85

O Summer seasonings
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86 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 unwind kitchen style

Essential kitchen kit?

Lots of baking trays and prep bowls.

What’s always in your fridge?

Butter, butter and more butter.

Is there a family dish you cook again and again?

We both have busy lives so we often make a simple peanut
butter noodle dish. Its spicy, nutty and creamy, and it can be
adapted to whatever we have in the fridge that needs using up.

Give us a recipe in a sentence, maybe something you eat when

you’re on your own?
Cook a couple of shallots in olive oil with some garlic and fennel
seeds, and, once soft, add ’nduja and halved cherry tomatoes,
cooking until the tomatoes have broken down. Add lemon juice
and pasta water to create the sauce, and serve with bucatini and
plenty of pecorino – garlic breadcrumbs are also welcome.

Can you share a clever shortcut, cheat or hack that makes

entertaining more effortless?
Don’t make anything that needs cooking just before serving.
Having friends over should mean spending time with them, not
spending all the time in your kitchen.

Favourite cookbook?
The Last Course by Claudia Fleming.

Favourite travel destination?

Japan or Italy.

This year’s best food discovery

Ra-yu furikake. Furikake itself isn’t a new discovery but this
specific version, made with sesame seeds, garlic and onion, is
soaked in ra-yu chilli oil, making it a wonderfully textured, gently
spiced mixture that is great on eggs, added to a bowl of ramen
and so many different things. It’s really savoury with a nice,
gentle spice.

What do you cook when you want to unwind?

I like cooking anything that goes into a pot and cooks for hours.
I can potter around the house and just check in with the dish
occasionally, and basically relax and unwind while making
something delicious.

Reasons to be cheerful in 2023?

Cookies. Cookies always make things better.

LOVE EDD’S KITCHEN? TURN OVER TO GET THE LOOK

from top
Edd’s storage solutions for a limited space

June 2023 Omagazine.com 87

unwind kitchen style

1
get the look
Inspired by Edd’s kitchen?
Here’s how to create a similar look

12 2 3
4

11

6
9

10
8
7

1 Steelite Carnival Sunflower Empire cups (pack of 12), £62.38, nisbets.co.uk | 2 Lemon squeezer, £6 , waitrose.com | 3 Organic fluted serving plate, £34, nomliving.com
4 Three-pint jug, £37, falconenamelware.com | 5 Cast iron spice grinder, £39, japaneseknifecompany.com | 6 House Doctor Pion bowl, £7.55, connox.co.uk
7 Kilner jars, from £2.50, kilnerjar.co.uk | 8 Escali P115PO Primo digital kitchen scales, £32, amazon.co.uk | 9 Eddingtons Leverton beech wood butcher’s trolley
85.5cm, £799, johnlewis.com | 10 Wilfa black Probaker mixer, £1,150, dykeanddean.com | 11 Arket stoneware pot 18cm, £29, arket.com | 12 Kitchen cupboard paint
in Fire Brick, £24.99, rustoleumcolours.co.uk

88 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 COMING NEXT MONTH ON SALE
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June 2023 Omagazine.com 89

 BOLTHOLE

The Queensberry Hotel, Bath

This charming Georgian townhouse hotel
exudes warm hospitality, quirky interiors and is
home to the city’s only Michelin-starred restaurant

90 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 discover bolthole

What makes it unique vanilla; a single chocolate, in the shape of a full red-lipsticked pout,
Gloriously good fun and with impeccable manners, this delightfully comes with after-dinner tea, set on a tray with an egg timer to tell you
PHOTOGRAPHS: NICK SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY, CHRIS WAKEFIELD, MARK CLEGHORN

unstuffy hotel is more than just a base for Bath’s historic sites and its exactly when it’s brewed. The wine list, curated by restaurant manager
food scene. Details count here. There’s a reason there’s no kettle clutter Aisling Bury features an imaginative range of small producers, from the
in your room – owners Laurence and Helen Beere wouldn’t expect English sparkling Bluestone from adjacent county Wiltshire to a Niagara
overnight guests at their home to make their own drinks, and this Peninsula ice wine with dessert.
hospitality is extended to everyone staying at the hotel: tea will be
served to your door whenever you request it. The team remember your Recreate at home
name and, with equal knowledge, can recommend local attractions, While the magnificence of the hotel staircase is impossible to mimic,
lively pubs or suggest just the right evening cocktail at the Old Q Bar. throughout the communal areas and bedrooms there are ideas to
borrow, from bathroom White Lotus-style exotic prints and minimalist
On the menu Bath House toiletries (made in Cumbria), Mary Poppins-like wallpaper
Bath’s only Michelin-starred restaurant, The Olive Tree, is anything designed by Divine Savages (as with everything at the hotel, spend
but staid. At first glance, it couldn’t be more traditional, with a wine time examining it to see something new each time); piles of
cabinet-lined entrance, muted tones and just a handful of tables, each paperbacks; brass monkeys. Further quirky touches such as a pair of
decorated with a single vase of seasonal flowers. But look a little closer boxing gloves reference the hotel’s namesake, the Marquess of
at the décor: black and white prints and wall-mounted plates tell a more Queensbury and his pugilistic rulebook. Rooms from £135, B&B from
subversive story. There are surprises on the menu, too. Chef Chris £175. thequeensberry.co.uk
Cleghorn’s ruby beetroot is a single rose bloom, offered with a spoon
of caviar; a delicately poached Isle of Skye langoustine is teamed with

Get a 360 tour and see more of

the action at The Queensberry at
Omagazine.com and
on our socials.

June 2023 Omagazine.com 91

 Kitchen therapy
with Rosie Birkett
Juicy tomatoes come to life in June, and Rosie makes the most of their
natural sweetness with salty feta – a beautifully moreish pairing

Tomatoes become a primary food group for me and my

family, come summer. We keep them in bowls dotted
across the kitchen counter and on the table, and if I’m
passing a shop or greengrocer that has some splendid
Rosie’s top tips
looking specimens on display, I’ll usually pick up a bag, as
I know we will get through them. My daughter absolutely

1
Save the seeds! If you have a favourite tomato,
loves them – because they were one of the first things she scoop out some of the seeds and separate
was weaned on, and I still get a little surge of excitement them from the pulp, then dry on kitchen
when I see her curiosity-cum-joy at biting into their flesh and paper and plant next year to see if you can grow
experiencing that addictive interplay of sweetness, umami your own.
and acidity which gives the fruit its unique appeal. She loves

2
the small, juicy vine-ripened cherry and plum varieties, If you’re barbecuing, griddle the toasts over
simply sliced in half or slightly warmed until bursting and the indirect heat to give them a smoky
tangled through pasta with olive oil. flavour and delightful char. You could cook
the feta on some oiled foil in the same way, too.
For now though, I want to eat them raw, macerated in a
little salt, vinegar and olive oil, and I keep an eye out for the

3
Use your best olive oil for finishing the
bulbous, non-uniform-looking heritage varieties, their skins tomatoes, save the less good stuff for
veined with scarring indicating they’ve been cultivated for brushing and charring the toasts.
their flavour. And I try to remember to take a leaf out of my

4
green fingered mother’s book and save some of the seeds Rub your toasts with a clove of garlic once
from the best tasting examples I eat. See my tip opposite for they’re griddled, if you have time – it adds
more on that. another layer of deliciousness.
When the sun is shining, I practically live off tomatoes on
toast as a quick breakfast, lunch or snack, and this recipe is
an elevated version of that classic, which brings in fragrant
baked feta to add a salty, creamy element that works
brilliantly alongside the sharp, sweet fruit.

Rosie Birkett is an award-winning food and cookery writer, food stylist and cookbook author based in London and on the Kent
coast. Follow Rosie on Substack at rosiebirkett.substack.com.

92 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 unwind relax and learn
RECIPE: ROSIE BIRKETT. PHOTOGRAPH: KIM LIGHTBODY. SHOOT DIRECTOR: RACHEL BAYLY. STYLING: RACHEL VERE. FOOD STYLING: KATIE MARSHALL

Scan to watch Rosie

making her spiced roast
feta with tomato salad

Spiced roast feta 1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. batches – for 3-4 mins on each side until
Rub the feta with 1 tsp of olive oil. Put it on there are grill marks and the bread is golden
with tomato salad a sheet of foil, then drizzle over the honey and crunchy. Sprinkle with sea salt.
and scatter over the coriander seeds, 4 Spoon the tomatoes onto a serving platter
SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS
oregano and pul biber. Wrap the foil around and drizzle over the remaining olive oil.
COOK 20 MINS | EASY
the feta to make a sealed parcel, and roast Finish with the basil leaves and top with
for 10 mins. Unwrap the foil and roast for the feta. Serve alongside the toasts and leave
1 slab of feta
another 5-10 mins or until caramelised. everyone to get topping.
100ml olive oil, plus 1 tsp
2 Meanwhile, cut up the tomatoes (I like to
drizzle of runny honey
slice some, cut some into wedges, halve PER SERVING 664 kcals | fat 39.3G
½ tsp coriander seeds, lightly crushed
others) and put in a large mixing bowl. saturates 11.2G | carbs 56.3G | sugars 11.1G
1 tsp of oregano leaves or a good pinch
Scatter over a good pinch of sea salt and fibre 4G | protein 19.3G | salt 2.9G
of dried oregano
season well with black pepper. Stir in the
½ tsp pul biber
olives and red wine vinegar, and leave to sit.
600g mixed tomatoes
3 Put a griddle over a medium-high heat and
2 tbsp Kalamata olives, pitted
let the pan get hot. Brush the slices of
2 tsp red wine vinegar
sourdough with 90ml of olive oil. Sear the
8 slices of sourdough
bread in the pan – you will need to do this in
handful of basil leaves

June 2023 Omagazine.com 93

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96 June 2023 Omagazine.com

 show off

SHOW OFF
Sea bass aguachile
Aguachile, literally ‘chilli water’, comes from the north-west
region of Mexico. Traditionally made with prawns, we make it
with sea bass. Before the advent of food processors, the sauce
would have been made with a molcajete – the Mexican version
of a pestle and mortar. This dish uses fragrant bronze fennel
and sea fennel but, if you can’t find these herbs, you can use dill.

SERVES 2 | PREP 30 MINS | EASY | GF

2 medium shallots, chopped

4 green jalapeño chillies
6 limes, juiced
200g skinless sea bass fillet
1
/2 head of fennel
1
/4 cucumber
bronze fennel and sea fennel (or dill), to finish
sea salt flakes, to serve
extra-virgin olive oil, to serve
plain tortilla chips, to serve

1 First make the aguachile by blending the shallots, chillies

and lime juice in a food processor for 1 min, then strain
through a fine mesh sieve.
2 Cut the sea bass into 2cm pieces. For the garnish,
slice the fennel thinly, keeping each slice intact and joined
at the root, and keep in iced water until needed. Cut the
cucumber in half, remove the seeds, cut into batons and
then short lengths. Keep cold in iced water until needed.
3 To serve, marinate the sea bass in the aguachile for
2 mins, then put the fish and a little of the juice on the
plates. Arrange the sliced fennel, cucumber and herbs on
top, folding the fennel slices as shown in the picture (or
arranged flat, if you prefer) and finish with sea salt flakes
and a drizzle of good olive oil to taste. Serve with plain
tortilla chips.

PER SERVING 210 kcals | fat 10.5G

saturates 2.2G | carbs 4.9G | sugars 4.8G
fibre 3.1G | protein 22.5G | salt 0.2G

Turn over to see Zapote’s sea bass aguachile in all its glory

June 2023 Omagazine.com 97

 SHOW OFF

Zapote’s sea bass aguachile

RECIPE: YAHIR GONZALEZ. PHOTOGRAPH: SIM CANETTY-CLARKE

(recipe on p97)

DON’T MISS THE

Recreate this beautifully delicate sharing plate from
JULY ISSUE OF O
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in east London’s Shoreditch. zapote.co.uk BARS, 2023’S ON-TREND
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98 June 2023 Omagazine.com

THE asmi emsy EDIT

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