AN

INSPIRED Hand-Harvested
Wild Rice

CELEBRATION
page 6

Grilled Sweet
Potatoes
with Chile
Crisp

Cider-Braised
Turkey

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2023
$7. 9 9 U.S. / $ 9. 9 9 CA N A DA
Watercress and
Apple Salad
 INS IDE T HE
TEST KI TC HEN

Behind the Scenes

Left: Team members from across the company sample a variety
of recipes from the Cook’s Country cook-through of The Sioux
Chef’s Indigenous Kitchen (2017). Right: Test Cook Mark Huxsoll
cooks amaranth as the first step of making crackers.

Editor in Chief Toni Tipton-Martin Creative Director John Torres Chief Executive Officer Dan Suratt
Editorial Director Bryan Roof Photography Director Julie Cote Chief Creative Officer Jack Bishop
Executive Editor Scott Kathan Art Director Maggie Edgar Chief Operating Officer Evan Silverman
Executive Editor, Creative Content Morgan Bolling Art Director, ATK Reviews Marissa Angelone Chief Marketing and Data Officer Lee Boykoff
Deputy Food Editor Nicole Konstantinakos Associate Art Director Kristen Jones Chief Digital Officer Fran Middleton
Deputy Editor Megan Ginsberg Graphic Designer Rose Flynn Senior VP, Human Resources & Organizational
Senior Editors Matthew Fairman, Jessica Rudolph Senior Staff Photographers Steve Klise, Daniel J. van Ackere Development Colleen Zelina
Senior Photo Test Cook Lawman Johnson Photographer Kevin White
Test Cooks Mark Huxsoll, Amanda Luchtel, Kelly Song Senior Photography Producer Meredith Mulcahy VP, Brand Partnerships Michelle O’Connor
Photo Test Cook Faye Yang VP, Marketing Natalie Vinard
Senior Print Production Specialist Lauren Robbins VP, Technology Dustin Brandt
Executive Managing Editor, Creative Operations Todd Meier Production & Imaging Coordinator Amanda Yong Editorial Director, Digital Content Kevin Pang
Copy Editors Amelia Freidline, Katrina Ávila Munichiello, April Poole Production & Imaging Specialists Tricia Neumyer, Dennis Noble Director, Audience Acquisition & Partnerships Evan Steiner
Executive Editor, Digital Mari Levine Assistant Test Kitchen Director Alexxa Benson Director, Public Relations & Communications Brian Franklin
Contributing Editor Eva Katz Test Kitchen Shopping & Receiving Lead Heather Tolmie Senior Director, Social Media & Emerging Platforms
Senior Science Research Editor Paul Adams Senior Kitchen Operations Assistant Crispin Lopez Kathryn Przybyla
Ingredient Receiving Coordinator Christopher Miller Senior Social Media Manager Charlotte Errity
Executive Editors, ATK Reviews Hannah Crowley, Lisa McManus Kitchen Facilities and Equipment Coordinator Ethan Rogers Social Media Manager Norma Tentori
Deputy Editor, ATK Reviews Kate Shannon Executive Editor, Video & Cooking School Christie Morrison Social Media Coordinator Sarah Ahn
Senior Editors, ATK Reviews Miye Bromberg, Carolyn Grillo Culinary Producers Alli Berkey, Janette Zepeda Community Engagement Coordinator Karen Tran
Associate Editor, ATK Reviews Chase Brightwell Assistant Culinary Producer Mel Velasco Director, Customer Support Timothy Quinn
Assistant Editor, Digital, ATK Reviews Sawyer Phillips Food Stylists Sasha Coleman, Chantal Lambeth, Elle Simone Scott Customer Support Specialists Nanda-Devi Davies,
Assistant Editors, ATK Reviews Valerie Sizhe Li, Sarah Sandler Michaela Gilgenbach, Danielle Lutz

Hosts & Executive Editors, Television Julia Collin Davison,

Bridget Lancaster

Circulation Services PWX Solutions

 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

I F YO U ’ V E S E E N my The Sioux Chef’s Indigenous Kitchen (2017), a James

kitchen pantry, you know Beard Award winner encouraging readers to cook with
it is where my culinary iden- purpose and passion.
tity is stored. It embraces I met Sherman in 2019 when we were on the
flavors handed down from program at the Fort Collins Book Festival. His native
my vegetarian mother, my kitchen drew me in again when I visited his restaurant
upbringing in Southern Owamni by The Sioux Chef, where guests gather
California, and the diverse to enjoy bison so tender it cuts like butter, wild rice
palate I have nurtured laced with aromatic juniper, and grilled sweet potatoes
through my work. There are garnished with maple chile crisp—food that is smart,
aromatic spices, from all- creative, and unbelievably seductive.
spice to za’atar, and a dozen Sherman’s star has continued to glow ever since.
bottles of vinegar plus a Owamni earned the best new restaurant medal from
whole world of condiments, the James Beard Foundation. Time magazine named
such as harissa, sriracha, and him one of the Most Influential People of 2023. And
fish sauce, that make global he recently received the Julia Child Award, which is
cooking fun, an adventure. given to an individual (or team) who has made a pro-
The grains section is packed found and significant difference in the way America
with more than just white cooks, eats, and drinks.
and brown rice. Here, you’ll I invited the Cook’s Country staff to experience
find long and short grain, Sherman’s kitchen too. I wanted the team to reach
sushi, jasmine, arborio, beyond their own unique pantry staples and to be
and Carolina Gold next to inspired and even encouraged to part with seasonal
organic millet, couscous, and the African “super- traditions, looking for dishes centered on local ingre-
grain” fonio. I could go on. dients and vibrant flavors. Led by curiosity and open
The holiday turkey featured in my cookbook, minds, they chose recipes, cooked side by side in the
Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American test kitchen, and then shared their experiences at an
Cooking (2019), is a child of this pantry. Chile-rubbed, inviting table dressed abundantly with delicious food
roasted, and served with a pecan-speckled sauce, the (see image at left).
beautiful, bronze centerpiece owes its irresistible The menu spotlighting fresh, local, native ingre-
essence to the Mexican flavors that crossed the bor- dients in these pages is the result. We know the new
der in my youth, contributing robust taste to classic flavors and aromas will challenge your traditions,
and Southern dishes. Although I initially fretted that but we also hope the promise of a gracious meal rich
the recipe would read heretical to folks expecting me with Native tradition and based on natural foods will
to suggest a classic bird seasoned mildly with sage, inspire you.
cookbook buyers relished it. What’s in your pantry?
With global pantries in mind, this issue of Cook’s
Country presents a menu that explores Indigenous TONI TIPTON-MARTIN
foodways in honor of Indigenous Peoples Day. The
dishes we recommend can also give new meaning to Editor in Chief
Thanksgiving. For ideas, we turned to Sean Sherman’s

THE COMPLETE COOK’S COUNTRY TV SHOW COOKBOOK

Every Recipe and Review from All 16 Seasons, Now in Hardcover!
Hit the road with the top-rated Cook’s Country TV show as we search out the best recipes
from across America along with the cooks that inspired them. This beautiful new hardcover
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com/tv. It makes a great gift too!
 25 20

FEATURES
6 A CELEBRATORY FEAST 19 OLIVE OIL MASHED POTATOES
Looking at Thanksgiving through a Native lens. A lighter but deeply flavorful version of everyone’s
favorite side dish.
8 ON THE ROAD: OWAMNI
Reclaiming ancestry through food. 20 SEARED CHICKEN CUTLETS WITH
BASIL
10 CIDER-BRAISED TURKEY The fragrant herb takes center stage in this simple
Tender, succulent meat and a delicious, silky sauce one-pan dinner.
that practically makes itself. And you can do most
of the work ahead of time. 25 BEET DIP WITH YOGURT AND TAHINI
This earthy, sweet, and vibrant dip will brighten
11 HAND-HARVESTED WILD RICE any table.
A richer, more meaningful rice.
26 KLOBÁSNÍKY
12 GRILLED SWEET POTATOES WITH These buttery, sausage-stuffed Texas Czech pas-
MAPLE CHILE CRISP tries are so worth the effort.
38 A spicy-sweet new favorite.
28 FLASH-MARINATED SKIRT STEAKS
13 WATERCRESS AND APPLE SALAD Loads of flavor, fast.
Watercress shines in this crunchy, refreshing salad.
29 SHAVED CAULIFLOWER SALAD
14 GETTING TO KNOW Don’t cook your cauliflower; shave it.
Pawpaws
30 SHANGHAI SCALLION OIL NOODLES
16 CRANBERRY-GLAZED PORK LOIN Scallions go from sidekick to star in these
Here’s how to achieve an unfailingly juicy roast savory-sweet noodles.
with a glossy, lacquered, flavorful glaze.
32 SHOOFLY PIE
18 SPICED ORANGE AND FENNEL SALAD We baked 50 pies to get this Pennsylvania Dutch
As the weather gets colder, citrus gets more classic just right.
appealing—especially when paired with
fennel and spices. 34 APPLESAUCE SPICE CAKE WITH
BROWN SUGAR ICING
With its rich, caramel-like topping, this
buttery-sweet, lightly spiced cake is sure to please.

16
 America’s Test Kitchen has been teaching home
cooks how to be successful in the kitchen since
1993. Our mission is to empower and inspire
confidence, community, and creativity in the
kitchen. Millions watch our two shows on public
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Learn more at AmericasTestKitchen.com.

30

FIND THE ROOSTER!

DEPARTMENTS We’ve hidden a tiny version of the rooster
above in a photo in the pages of this issue. Tell
4 QUICK BITES 36 INSTANT POT us where the rooster is hiding, and we’ll enter
you in a random drawing. The first correct
Beef Ragu
5 ATK REVIEWS
entry drawn will win a one-year multisite web
membership, and the next two correct entries
Potato Mashers 37 COOKING FOR TWO drawn will receive a copy of The Complete
Pasta e Fagioli Cook’s Country TV Show Cookbook. To enter,
go to CooksCountry.com/rooster and fill out

21 DINNER TONIGHT 38 COOKING CLASS the submission form. All entries for this issue’s
drawing must be received by October 31, 2023.
Bulgur with Roasted Browned Butter Chocolate The June/July 2023 drawing winner, Tammy

Vegetables, White Beans, and Chunk Muffins Wong of Alameda, Calif., found the rooster on
page 9.
Arugula Salad
40 ONE PAN
Filets Mignons with Cod and Green Rice
Parsnip Puree
41 HOW TO MAKE
Glazed Salmon with Kale, Brown Sugar Applesauce
Pear, and Cheddar Salad
42 ATK REVIEWS
Pepperoni Pizza with Blue Cooking Sprays 34
Cheese, Pickled Peppers, and
Honey 43 ATK REVIEWS
13 by 9-Inch Baking Pans
Roasted Chicken Thighs with
Potatoes and Green Beans
44 BONUS RECIPE DOWNLOAD OUR APP
Seeded Lavash The America’s Test Kitchen app delivers the
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Crackers best-tasting recipes, how-to-cook videos,
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45 COOK’S COUNTRY today and become a culinary master! Go to
AmericasTestKitchen.com/app.
Pork with Crispy Wontons
PORTRAIT
Matthew Raiford
Turkey Burgers with
Pickled Cranberries

13

Cook’s Country magazine (ISSN 1552-1990), number 113, is published bimonthly by America’s Test Kitchen Limited Partnership, 21 Drydock Avenue, Suite 210E, Boston, MA
02210. Copyright 2023 America’s Test Kitchen Limited Partnership. Periodicals postage paid at Boston, MA, and additional mailing offices, USPS #023453. Publications Mail
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 QUICK BITES:
T E ST K I TC H E N T I P S , R EC S , A N D OT H E R T I D B I TS TO C H E W O N
by the Cook’s Country team

SUNFLOWER OIL COLORFUL CAULIFLOWER

Sunflowers, native to the White cauliflower isn’t the only variety available in supermarkets—orange, purple,
American Southwest, and green cauliflower are increasingly common. These hybrid varieties have been
have been grown and put bred to have high levels of naturally occurring pigments; orange cauliflower gets its
to a variety of uses by color from an abundance of carotenoids, while purple cauliflower gets its color from
Indigenous peoples for anthocyanin compounds. Extra chlorophyll creates green cauliflower. Regardless of
millennia. Recent history color, these cauliflowers all share the same mildly nutty, sweet flavor. If you want to
has seen the sunflower add some color to your cauliflower dishes, use these varieties in raw applications,
become one of the world’s such as our cauliflower salad (page 29). When
top oil crops, with Rus- cooked, colorful varieties of vegetables don’t
sia and Ukraine leading always retain their striking hues.
global production. –Amanda Luchtel
Sunflower oil is available
in two primary types:
refined and unrefined. Orange
Refined sunflower oil is the The carotenoids in orange cauliflower are the
most commonly available most stable when cooked. The color stays
in American supermarkets. It is neutral-tasting vibrant when blanched or sautéed, no matter
with a high smoke point (450 degrees), making how long you cook it.
it ideal for high-heat cooking applications such
as searing, sautéing, frying, and baking. This is Purple
the type of sunflower oil you’ll want to use for The water-soluble compounds in purple
making our Grilled Sweet Potatoes with Maple cauliflower are the most sensitive of the three
Chile Crisp (page 12). Unrefined or cold-pressed colored types covered here; boiling dulls
sunflower oil is more flavorful purple cauliflower’s color if it’s cooked past
(retaining more of the nutti- crisp-tender. Stick to sautéing to prevent it
ness of the seeds) but also from fading as much.
more volatile, giving it a
shorter shelf-life and a Green
lower smoke point (of In its raw state, green cauliflower, which is
about 320 degrees). a hybrid of broccoli and cauliflower, is more
It’s less common and fibrous than the other varieties. It is best to
best used (like a good gently cook it to preserve its color; the chloro-
extra-virgin olive oil) in phyll in green cauliflower is heat-sensitive and
raw applications such as vin- will fade if cooked beyond crisp-tender.
aigrettes or for finishing dishes.
–Matthew Fairman

HOW TO CARVE A TURKEY DRUMSTICK

It’s fun and satisfying to pick up a turkey drumstick and bite into it (hello,
Renaissance Fair), but if you want to carve the meat off for your holiday dinner,
here’s an easy, tidy way to do it. Stand Up
Stand the drumstick upright with the meaty side resting on the cutting and Slice
board. Slice downward against the bone—you can cut thin slices or cleave Holding the
larger chunks off (and slice them later if desired)—and then rotate the drum- drumstick upright,
stick. Repeat this until all the meat is carved off the bone; you may want to slice downward,
remove the tendons before serving. –Mark Huxsoll rotating bone
as you go.

4 CO O K’S COUN T RY • OCTO B ER /N OV EMB ER 2023

 QUICK BITES

ATK REVIEWS
WOK TALK
A wok is the ultimate all-in-one vessel that no home kitchen should
be without. In Chinese American homes, it’s often the only piece
of cookware used on the stovetop. A wok’s high walls and rounded
shape make it easy to stir-fry foods (as with Shanghai Scallion Oil
Noodles, page 31) with less spillage and better browning than in a
skillet. In addition to stir-frying, woks can also be used for boiling,
deep frying, and stovetop
braising. We prefer
carbon-steel versions, which
acquire seasoning over time
and become increasingly
nonstick. –Kelly Song THE BEST POTATO MASHERS
by Lauren Savoie and Sawyer Phillips

A GOOD MASHER is an underrated tool. To find the best, we

rounded up a range of wavy and perforated mashers. We mashed boiled
WHAT ARE WARM SPICES?
russets, sweet potatoes, and Yukon Golds in 2- and 4-quart saucepans
The cozy aroma of cinnamon in an apple pie, nutmeg in a pumpkin and an 8-quart Dutch oven. We noticed that mashers with perforated
pie, or cloves in molasses cookies—much of our cold weather bak- mashing plates made smoother potatoes and took less effort than wavy
ing is characterized by the warmth of spices. But what exactly do products. The larger gaps in wavy
we mean when we talk about “warm” spices? mashers left lumps of untouched
The most common warm spices are cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, potato, and these mashers’ blocky
and cloves (though other spices are considered warm as well, footprints made it difficult to navi-
such as ground ginger, mace, cardamom, turmeric, and anise). gate the circular interiors of pans,
They are generally used to add woody, sweet, tingly, or spicy depth especially in smaller saucepans.
to foods—baked goods especially but also drinks and savory Wavy mashers occasionally bent
dishes. Most of these spices get their characteristic aromas from or warped during mashing, while
ring-shaped molecules called benzenoid rings. –Jessica Rudolph the solid plates on most perfo-
rated mashers stayed rigid. Perforated = Wavy =
NUTMEG Testers also zeroed in on the Smoother Lumpier
CLOVES handles’ size, shape, and material.
Larger-handed testers had trouble holding handles that were 4 inches
long or shorter; thin, short, or metal handles were uncomfortable and
slippery. Lefties and righties of all sizes preferred handles around 5 or
6 inches long with a slight curve and a secure plastic grip.
ALLSPICE
Finally, we washed all the mashers by hand after each test and ran
them through the dishwasher 10 times to simulate months of washing.
Our favorite products were easy to clean by hand and still looked as
CINNAMON
good as new after multiple runs through the dishwasher.
The Zyliss Stainless Steel Potato Masher rose to the top. With a large,
Allspice grippy handle and a large plate, this perforated masher was maneuver-
Allspice is a pea-size berry from the evergreen pimento tree that able, comfortable, and efficient.
grows in tropical climates, such as Jamaica’s. Its flavor is reminis-
cent of cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg.
OUR TOP PICK

Cinnamon Zyliss Stainless Steel

Potato Masher
Most cinnamon sold in this country is rolled tree bark of the cassia LO N G, CO MFORTABLE
Model: E980044U
tree, not Ceylon cinnamon, which is known as “true” cinnamon. Price: $12.99 H AND LE keeps hands
“Cinnamon” is actually an umbrella term for several different spe- away from hot food

cies of evergreen trees in the genus Cinnamomum.

STU R DY
Cloves CONSTRUCTION
doesn’t bend or
Pungent, peppery cloves are the dried, unopened buds of an Indo- warp when mashing
nesian tree. They resemble nails—in fact, the word “clove” comes MOD ERAT E SI ZE
from “clavus,” the Latin word for nail. maneuvers easily in
L ARG E small and large pots
PER FORAT ED PLAT E
Nutmeg mashes lots of potatoes
Heady and powerful, nutmeg is a hard, brown seed from a evenly and uniformly

tropical tree.
Web subscribers can see the complete results chart at AmericasTestKitchen.com/nov23.

OCTOBE R/ NOVE MB ER 2023 • CO OK’S COU NTRY 5

 to cook with what
Igrows, roams, and swims where you live—
T MAKES SENSE

proximity equals freshness, and eating local

foods is a way of eating more naturally. Sean
Sherman, chef and owner of Owamni by The
Sioux Chef, has an approach that goes deeper:
He strives to primarily use ingredients that
are native to North America, particularly the
upper Midwest. While Sherman’s cooking is
sometimes called precolonial, at its heart his
cuisine is about celebrating native (and Native)
foodstuffs and not about shunning ingredients
brought here from other continents.
Inspired by this idea, we developed a small
menu of Thanksgiving dishes that abide by
chef Sherman’s prin-
ciples of focusing on
. . . IT FREED foods native to North
America. We brought
US TO LOOK a piece of Sherman’s
philosophy back into
AT INGRE- our test kitchen to
DIENTS AND develop recipes for
Cider-Braised Turkey,
FLAVORS Hand-Harvested Wild
DIFFERENTLY Rice with Dried Mul-
berries, Grilled Sweet
... Potatoes with Maple
Chile Crisp, and
Watercress and Apple
Salad with Maple-Hazelnut Vinaigrette, all
crafted solely from ingredients that naturally
evolved on this continent. Thus, there is
no wine in these dishes, no black pepper, no
dairy, no pork, no cane sugar, no citrus. What
we found was that omitting those ingredients
didn’t limit us in the kitchen—it freed us to
look at ingredients and flavors differently and
to think about the origins of our food in a
more profound way.
Sherman says (in The Sioux Chef’s Indigenous
Kitchen [2017]) that few Native Americans
celebrate Thanksgiving today because of the
holiday’s complicated history. But, “Many do
gather . . . in a ritual giving of thanks for the
harvest and to honor their ancestors. Our family
and friends cook a meal of squash, wild rice, and
turkey all seasoned with indigenous flavors.”
However you approach the holiday, we hope
that you celebrate the season with your loved
ones—and these recipes. –Scott Kathan
 MINNEAPOLIS

OWAMNI
Reclaiming ancestry through food.
by Bryan Roof; photos by Steve Klise

OWA M N I BY T H E Sioux Chef, rich nuttiness; hand-harvested wild

the modern Indigenous restaurant rice—what Sherman refers to as
in downtown Minneapolis, sits “true wild rice”—with currants and
along the Mississippi River atop root vegetables; and grilled sweet
the ruins of an 1800s-era flour potatoes drizzled with “indigenous
mill. Chef and owner Sean Sher- chile crisp,” a dish so simple and
man, who is Oglala Lakota from perfectly executed that, as a chef,
Pine Ridge Reservation in South I’m humbled by its genius.
Dakota, opened Owamni in July of When it comes to understand-
2021 to promote the foodways of ing and cooking with indigenous
the Ojibwe and Dakota tribes with foods, Sherman says, “You have to
a menu of precolonial ingredients know that you’re not going to find
indigenous to North America. some of these flavors in the grocery
The dining room has clean store. But if you look outside and
lines of blond wood, black steel, learn the plants, you’re going to
and gray brick. Floor-to-ceiling start to see it. Go outside and learn
windows overlook the Mississippi the names of things and create
River and St. Anthony Falls, a a relationship. You’re going to In 2014, drawing on his knowl-

PURPLE HEART TRL

sacred site known as Owámni- start seeing nothing but food and edge of indigenous ingredients, OWAMNI
BY THE SIOUX CHEF
yomni in Dakota. The medicine everywhere Native dishes, and traditional
bar seating gives diners “WHAT IS THE you look.” cooking techniques, Sherman OLSON MEMORIAL HIGHWAY

a view into the heart of The grounds sur- officially began working as “The
the open kitchen where INDIGENOUS rounding Owamni Sioux Chef,” taking on catering

MN-280
I-3 94

a dozen or so cooks, PANTRY OF are filled with plants gigs and hosting pop-up dinners, PURPLE HEART TRL

waiters, and bartenders indigenous to the and eventually opening the Tatanka IN DIG EN OU S
work in quiet harmony. WHERE WE northern Midwest. Truck food truck. After he won F O OD L AB
Sherman, whose ARE RIGHT At the base of each the bid for the Owamni restaurant

H IA

MISSISSIPPI RIVER
WA
BD E MA K A

TH
I-35W
SK A

AA
Lakota name is Waŋblí plant is a placard list- space in 2017, Sherman’s popup

EV
Wathákpe, meaning HERE?” ing its Dakota name dinners became more experiential, L A KE
MI NNE AP OL IS
first, followed by the featuring Native musicians, paint-
H A R R IE T

Charging Eagle, tours - SEAN SHERMAN

me through the restau- English name and ers, poets, and singers.
rant. He points out a map on the description. Sherman talks about Heading into the kitchen, bar are laid out on a baking sheet.
wall showing historic waterways, this as “passive education.” Sherman points out some of the Sherman explains that they’re first
mostly in Minnesota, which he He says that a lot of his work ingredients the cooks are work- boiled in a mixture of water and
refers to as the “original highways.” has been to “re-understand the ing with: dandelion pesto; tepary maple syrup and then roasted with
The waterways are listed by their pantries in these various areas. bean succotash; arepas of wild salt and chile. “Is that a standard
Dakota names, which each have a What is the indigenous pantry rice and corn; multiple varieties preparation for crickets?” I ask.
particular meaning. “Usually [they] of where we are right here? It’s of hard squash that have been “That’s just what we came up
have something to do with food,” looking at all this diverse plant pureed, pickled, or roasted; pea with,” Sherman says, continu-
he says. “This is ‘where the fish growth around us and trying to shoots; mustard greens; grilled ing with a chuckle, “I don’t think
break,’ or this is ‘where the geese understand what the Indigenous wild mushrooms; sautéed peppers there’s a standard for crickets.”
meet.’ Or ‘Rice Lake’ or ‘Potato peoples knew. Food, medicine, and onions; “shattered” pepitas; We turn our attention to
Lake’ or ‘Onion Lake.’” crafting, how to harvest, when to hazelnuts; turnips; colorful Pima wild rice, called “manoomin” in
Illustration: Sophie Greenspan

As we talk, I dine on smoked harvest, which parts to harvest. All corn; branches of dried cedar; Ojibwe, meaning “good berry.”
trout with tepary-bean spread and those kinds of pieces, and starting sprigs of coniferous hemlock (the Wild rice holds significant impor-
wojape, a cooked berry puree; elk to try to rebuild that education.” tree, not the poisonous plant). tance to Indigenous people, as
tartare with pickled carrots, blue- Without systems in place to Days ago, they received 40 beavers Sherman explains, “The Anishi-
berries, and sumac; a small bowl record, steward, and respect this that will eventually find their way naabe have a legend that when
of roasted crickets and seeds that Indigenous knowledge, Sherman onto the menu. they migrated out west to land
have the crunch of granola and a fears that it may be lost. The crickets I snacked on at the here, they were trying to find

8 CO OK’S COU N TRY • OCTOB ER/ NOV EMB ER 2023

the place where the ‘food grows
on the water,’ meaning this wild
rice. They were looking for their
homelands. Their whole iden-
tity is tied to this piece.”
He points out the color
variations among the three
types of rice laid out
before us, and offers up
tasting notes for each.
Sherman grabs a
small saucepan, adds
some of the rice that was
hand-harvested by tribal
members of White Earth
Nation, and fills the pot
with just enough water to
cover the rice. He throws
in a handful of dried white
mulberries, a shot each of
sunflower oil and maple
syrup, a three-finger pinch
of salt, and a sprig of coniferous of aroma, it’s got a lot of flavor all
hemlock. He kicks on the stove by itself.”
burner and brings the mixture to About 3 miles across town,
a simmer. While it cooks, he adds inside Midtown Global Market, is
some raw wild rice to a dry carbon- Sherman’s research and develop-
steel skillet and toasts it over high ment space, Indigenous Food Lab
heat, shaking the pan constantly, (IFL). The space serves as a hub
until the rice puffs like popcorn. for catering operations and also
We snack on it while we wait. prepares some of the foundational
The boiled rice cooks in just items for the restaurant, such as
about 20 minutes, and Sherman tortillas and arepa dough. The
notes that true wild rice cooks IFL, which opened in June of food leaders in the future. We call “As Indigenous people, so many
more quickly and tastes much 2023, is also a native market for the this the Spirit kitchen,” Sherman of us can reconnect with our ances-
different than cultivated wild rice, community. “It’s a place for people says. The space will also be used try, even if it’s broken, and start to
aka paddy rice, which takes about to come and purchase indigenous for cooking demonstrations and rebuild. What is a sense moving
three times as long to cook and has food products that we curate from shooting educational videos. forward for us is just reclaiming
a chewier texture and woodier fla- Indigenous producers, as well as About 70 percent of the our true North American foods.
vor. This particular true wild rice a small menu where people can employees at Owamni and the The true story of North America.”
tastes slightly grassy, with notes order some real grab-and-go kinds IFL identify as Indigenous, and
of toasted walnut and a gentle of indigenous foods.” Sherman says there are more and Left page, top to bottom: Sean
smokiness. The hemlock adds a Across from the IFL prep area is more Indigenous chefs cropping up Sherman; a neon sign decorates the
entrance wall at Owamni by The Sioux
piney flavor, like a cross between a small secondary kitchen. “Part of throughout the country. “It’s this Chef. Right page, clockwise from top:
fresh sage and juniper, and the our work is to train more Indig- movement that’s up-and-coming An assortment of tea blends made
mulberries add pops of sweetness. enous entrepreneurs. So people and it’s been happening for a while. from locally sourced indigenous plants;
a bowl of puffed wild rice (left), bowls
Sherman says when you “taste can take over this kitchen and sell We’ve seen it grow from nothing
of raw wild rice (right); Rocio Cortes
the rice for what it is, it doesn’t and test-market their products to now a handful of restaurants removes a corn and wild rice arepa
really need anything. It’s got a lot to help develop more Indigenous across the nation. from the griddle.

OCTO BE R/ NOV EMBE R 2023 • COO K’S COUN T RY 9

 Cider-Braised Turkey
Tender, succulent meat and a delicious, silky
sauce that practically makes itself. And you
can do most of the work ahead of time.
by Mark Huxsoll

B R A I S I N G T U R K E Y PA R T S a fond (the browned bits on the

is a much more failproof path to bottom of the pot) that is then
tender, moist meat than roast- incorporated into the braising
ing a whole bird is. This year our liquid for extra flavor. We found
holiday turkey is inspired by Sean that this step was messy and
Sherman, who includes a recipe unnecessary here; the sauce is
for cider-braised turkey in his book plenty flavorful without it, and we
The Sioux Chef’s Indigenous Kitchen brown the turkey parts in a hot
(2017). In our version—which has oven before serving to make the
a different method and flavor pro- skin more appealing.
file from Sherman’s—turkey legs
are braised in sweet-tart apple cider SALTING IS KEY
with onion, dried porcini mush- Salting the raw turkey thighs and/
rooms, sage, and a hint of ginger. or drumsticks for 12 to 24 hours
There is no stock added; during before cooking is essential.
the 3-hour cooking time the meat, When salt is applied to raw
skin, and bones of the turkey legs meat, it draws juices inside the
give up plenty of flavor and body to meat to the surface; the juices
the cider, effectively creating their mix with the salt to form a brine,
own stock. The rich dark meat which is reabsorbed by the meat.
emerges so tender it pulls from the As the salt is pulled into the turkey
bone with ease. For the sauce, the meat, it changes the protein
onion, ginger, and mushrooms are structure so that the meat is better We cook the turkey parts in the Since the turkey isn’t browned
blended into the flavorful brais- able to retain moisture. The salt foil-covered pan for 90 minutes. before braising, we brown it after
ing liquid to make a thick “gravy” also helps season and tenderize Then we take the pan out of the braising—skin side up nestled
that is balanced enough to be the meat. oven, remove the foil, flip each into the blended sauce—in a
ladled over everything on your piece, and continue to cook for 400-degree oven. This process
holiday plate. A FLIP FOR EVEN COOKING— another 90 minutes of braising. builds in a fantastic make-ahead
AND THE RIGHT AMOUNT option, as you can braise and
THE BEAUTY OF BRAISING OF SAUCE FINISHING TOUCHES blend a day in advance and refrig-
Braising simply means cooking Our testing determined that When the turkey thighs and/or erate the turkey and sauce. Then
something (most often tougher 3 hours at 300 degrees was the drumsticks are fully tender, we all you have to do on the day is
cuts of meat) low and slow, perfect amount of time to braise transfer them to a platter and blend proceed with the browning step
covered, in liquid; the cover traps the roughly 8 pounds of tur- some braising liquid with the solids about 45 minutes before you’re
steam that helps efficiently ten- key parts to complete and silky to create a silky, well-rounded, ready to serve.
derize tough cuts while keeping tenderness. But when we braised ultrasavory sauce.
them moist. them fully submerged in liquid,
Turkey legs have a good bit we were left with too much of
of connective tissue that braising that liquid at the end of cooking. Braising Arrangement
helps convert into gelatin, which Instead, we add just enough cider We call for braising the turkey BRAISING LIQUID
COVERS MEAT
results in tender and juicy meat. to submerge the turkey parts half- parts in a roasting pan. The HALFWAY
FOIL
A huge bonus of this method is way; while this gave us the right parts should be halfway sub-
that the braising liquid becomes amount of liquid to turn into a merged in the liquid (they get
intensely flavored and is easily sauce at the end, it meant that we flipped once). An aluminum
transformed into a tasty sauce. had to flip the pieces once during foil lid traps steam for more
Note: Many braised meats are cooking so that every morsel spent efficient cooking.
first seared and browned to create enough time cooking in the liquid.
Illustration: Rose Flynn

10 COO K’S COUN T RY • O CTO BE R /N OVE MBER 2023

 CIDER-BRAISED TURKEY
Serves 8 to 12 Total Time: 4 hours, plus 12 hours salting
You can use any combination of bone-in turkey thighs and drumsticks
you like; look for pieces with an average weight of about 1 pound each.
You can substitute vegetable oil for the sunflower oil and table salt for
the fine sea salt if desired. We developed this recipe using our winning
roasting pan, the Cuisinart MultiClad Pro 16" Roasting Pan with Rack
(we did not use the rack), but it can also be made in a heavy-duty dis-
posable aluminum pan; be sure to place the disposable pan on a baking
sheet for extra support. Note that the turkey needs to be salted for at
least 12 hours before cooking.

8 pounds bone-in turkey thighs beginning to fall off bones, about

and/or drumsticks, trimmed 1½ hours longer.
1½ tablespoons fine sea salt, 4. Remove pan from oven and
divided increase oven temperature to
2 tablespoons sunflower oil 400 degrees. Using slotted
1 onion, chopped spoon, transfer turkey skin side
1 (3-inch) piece ginger, sliced up to large platter. Strain brais-
into ¼-inch-thick rounds ing liquid through fine-mesh
3 cups apple cider strainer set over 8-cup liquid
1 ounce dried porcini measuring cup or large bowl.

Hand-Harvested
mushrooms, rinsed Discard sage sprigs.
6 sprigs fresh sage 5. Transfer strained solids and

Wild Rice
2 tablespoons whole-grain 2 cups braising liquid to blender.
mustard Return remaining braising
2 tablespoons cider vinegar, liquid to now-empty roasting
plus extra for seasoning pan. Process solids in blender A richer, more meaningful rice. by Bryan Roof
until smooth, about 1 minute.
1. Pat turkey dry with paper Add blended mixture, mustard,
towels and sprinkle all over with and vinegar to braising liquid HAND-HARVESTED WILD RICE Reduce heat to low, cover, and sim-
1 tablespoon salt. Transfer to in pan and whisk to combine. WITH DRIED MULBERRIES mer for 20 minutes.
large platter, cover with plastic Nestle turkey pieces skin side up Serves 4 Total Time: 55 minutes 2. Without removing lid, remove
wrap, and refrigerate for 12 to into sauce. We developed this recipe with pot from heat and let sit, still
24 hours. 6. Return pan to oven and roast wild rice from Native Wise LLC covered, for 10 minutes. Fluff rice
2 . Adjust oven rack to middle turkey, uncovered, until skin is of Minnesota. The recipe times with fork and discard sage leaves.
position and heat oven to well browned, 20 to 25 minutes. are specific to hand-harvested wild Transfer rice to serving bowl and
300 degrees. Heat oil in large Transfer turkey to serving plat- rice. If you buy cultivated wild sprinkle with flake sea salt. Serve.
saucepan over medium-high ter. Season sauce with salt and rice, see our recipe for Cultivated
heat until shimmering. Add extra vinegar to taste and trans- Wild Rice with Dried Mulber-
onion, ginger, and remaining fer to gravy boat. Serve turkey ries at AmericasTestKitchen.com/ Hand-Harvested Wild Rice
1½ teaspoons salt and cook, with sauce. nov23. This recipe can easily Natural, hand-harvested wild rice is
stirring occasionally, until be doubled. a grayish-brown color, has a delicate
vegetables are softened and fragrance, and cooks in about
lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. TO MAKE AHEAD 2¼ cups water 20 minutes. Cultivated “wild” rice
Add cider, mushrooms, and Turn off oven after removing 1½ cups hand-harvested is typically a glossy deep black and
sage and bring to boil. Transfer pan in step 4. Follow recipe wild rice takes 45 to 60 minutes to cook.
cider mixture to roasting pan. through step 5, letting turkey ¼ cup dried white mulberries
Arrange turkey pieces in even and sauce cool completely in pan. 1 tablespoon sunflower oil
layer in pan. Cover pan tightly Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 tablespoon maple syrup
with aluminum foil, transfer to 24 hours. To serve, cover pan 4 fresh sage leaves
oven, and cook for 1½ hours. with aluminum foil and heat in ¾ teaspoon fine sea salt
3. Remove pan from oven, flip 400-degree oven for 15 minutes. ½–1 teaspoon flake sea salt
turkey pieces, and re-cover pan Remove foil and continue to
tightly with foil. Return pan roast until skin is well browned 1. Combine water, rice, mulberries,
to oven and continue to cook and turkey registers at least oil, maple syrup, sage, and fine sea
until meat offers no resistance 165 degrees, 30 to 45 minutes. salt in medium saucepan and bring
when pierced with fork and is to boil over medium-high heat.

OCTO BE R/ NOVEM BE R 2023 • COO K’S COU NTRY 11

 Grilled
Sweet
Potatoes
with Maple
Chile Crisp
A spicy-sweet new
favorite. by Bryan Roof

GR I LL ED SW EE T POTATOES
WIT H M AP L E C H ILE CRI S P
Serves 4 to 6 Total Time: 21⁄4 hours,
plus 2 hours cooling
Plan ahead: The potatoes should
cool for at least 2 hours before
grilling. Orange sweet potatoes of
any variety can be substituted for
the white sweet potatoes called for
in this recipe. This recipe can be
doubled to serve a larger crowd.

2 (12- to 16-ounce) white sweet on grill and cook until potatoes MAP LE CH ILE CRI SP Spread chipotle, arbol, ancho,
potatoes, unpeeled, each lightly are char-streaked and easily release Makes about 1¾ cups guajillo, and New Mexico chiles on
pricked with fork in 6 places from grill, 3 to 5 minutes. Total Time: 1 hour, rimmed baking sheet. Roast until
4 teaspoons sunflower oil, divided 3. Brush skin sides of potatoes plus 4½ hours cooling fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. Let chiles
½ teaspoon fine sea salt, divided with remaining 2 teaspoons oil and Plan ahead: The chile crisp needs cool completely on sheet, about
½ cup Maple Chile Crisp (recipe sprinkle with remaining ¼ tea- to sit for at least 4 hours before 10 minutes.
follows), plus extra to taste spoon fine sea salt. Using firm using. In step 2, it’s important to 2. Stem and seed chiles. Break
½ teaspoon flake sea salt metal spatula, flip potatoes and combine all the ingredients in a chiles into 1- to 2-inch pieces.
1 scallion, sliced thin on bias cook until lightly browned on skin metal bowl because the shock of Working in batches, pulse chiles in
side and just heated through, 3 to adding hot oil to a Pyrex or glass spice grinder until pieces no larger
1. Adjust oven rack to middle posi- 5 minutes. bowl could cause it to shatter. This than ¼ inch remain, about 6 pulses.
tion and heat oven to 400 degrees. 4. Transfer potatoes to cutting recipe makes a moderately spiced Transfer ground chiles to medium
Line rimmed baking sheet with board. Cut each potato in half chile crisp. If you prefer your metal bowl. Add scallions, sugar,
parchment paper and place lengthwise, then in half crosswise. chile crisp slightly milder, you can garlic, and salt to chile mixture.
potatoes on sheet. Bake potatoes Arrange potatoes on platter and reduce the numbers of arbol and 3. Heat oil in small saucepan over
until paring knife inserted in spoon maple chile crisp over top, chipotle chiles to two each. medium-high heat to 375 degrees.
center meets no resistance, 1¼ to plus extra to taste. Sprinkle with Carefully pour hot oil over chile
1½ hours. Let potatoes cool com- flake sea salt and scallion. Serve. 3 dried chipotle chiles mixture in bowl (mixture will
pletely, at least 2 hours. (Potatoes 3 arbol chiles bubble aggressively). Let sit,
can be baked and refrigerated up to 2 ancho chiles stirring occasionally, until cooled
2 days in advance.) White Sweet Potatoes 2 guajillo chiles completely, about 30 minutes.
2. Prepare medium-hot grill These light-fleshed sweet potatoes 2 dried New Mexico chiles Transfer chile crisp to jar and let
or grill pan (if using grill pan, are firmer and starchier than their 3 scallions, sliced thin sit for at least 4 hours before using.
preheat over medium-high heat orange-fleshed counterparts. 2 tablespoons maple sugar (Chile crisp will keep at room tem-
for 10 minutes). Clean and oil 3 garlic cloves, minced perature for at least 1 month.)
cooking grate. Cut potatoes in 1½ teaspoons fine sea salt
half lengthwise. Brush cut sides of 1½ cups sunflower oil
potatoes with 2 teaspoons oil and
sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon fine sea 1. Adjust oven rack to middle posi-
salt. Place potatoes cut side down tion and heat oven to 400 degrees.

12 COOK’S COU N TRY • O CTO BE R/ NOVE M BER 2023

 Watercress and
Apple Salad
Watercress shines in this crunchy,
refreshing salad. by Nicole Konstantinakos

W A T E R C R E S S — a perennial WATE RCR ESS A ND

plant in the mustard family that APPL E SAL A D W I TH
grows wild on the banks of rivers M APL E- HA ZE LNUT
and streams (and is widely avail- V INA I G RE TT E
able in grocery stores)—is peppery Serves 6 to 8
and crunchy and makes a wonder- Total Time: 30 minutes
ful, palate-cleansing salad green. We love the mild, nutty flavor
This cress looks delicate but deliv- of hazelnut oil in this salad, but
ers a bold punch of flavor. It holds you can substitute any neutral
its own when paired with other vegetable oil, such as sunflower or
strongly flavored elements, such as canola. You can substitute table
smoked fish or grilled meats, but salt for the fine sea salt. You can
here we wanted a simple salad in use hazelnuts with or without
which the clean freshness of the skins in this recipe.
cress could shine and serve as a
foil to the richer, more complex 1⁄3 cup hazelnuts
dishes on our holiday table. ¼ cup hazelnut oil
One of the unique qualities of 2 tablespoons cider vinegar
watercress is that its stems are 1 tablespoon maple syrup
hollow and crisp-tender, which, 1 tablespoon whole-grain
unlike the stems of many other mustard
greens, provides a welcome ½ teaspoon fine sea salt
crunch without being too fibrous. 6 ounces (6 cups) watercress,
To complement this texture, we torn into 1- to 2-inch pieces
added a handful of sweet-tart 1 Granny Smith apple, Cutting Matchsticks
green apple matchsticks. And cored and cut into
to tie it all together, we made a matchsticks
simple, well-rounded dressing
with a touch of flair: With mildly 1 . Toast hazelnuts in 10-inch
nutty hazelnut oil as the base, skillet over medium heat, stirring
we added toasted hazelnuts (to often, until golden and fragrant,
deepen the nutty aromas and add 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer hazelnuts
crunch), maple syrup (for sweet- to blender jar and let cool com-
ness), apple cider vinegar (for pletely, about 15 minutes.
tang), and whole-grain mustard 2 . Pulse hazelnuts, oil, vinegar,
(to echo the piquant notes of the maple syrup, mustard, and salt in
cress). A few brief pulses in the blender until hazelnuts are coarsely
blender and our dressing was chopped and mixture is creamy,
beautifully emulsified, glossy, and 6 to 8 pulses. Transfer dressing to
bursting with flavor. large bowl. Add watercress and
apples and toss gently to combine. 1. Core and halve the apples and then 2. Stack the planks and cut them
Transfer to platter. Serve. cut them into ¼-inch-thick planks. into thin matchsticks.

OCTOB ER /NOVE MB ER 2023 • COOK’S COUN TRY 13

 GETTING TO K N O W

PAWPAWS
Pawpaws taste like a
tropical fruit but are
grown right here in
America. W H E R E T O F I N D PAW PAW S
Pawpaws are primarily found in the eastern
by Amanda Luchtel
half of the United States, roughly from Mis-
souri to Maryland. Most local supermarkets

PAW PAW S — in that region don’t sell pawpaws because

they’re in short supply and spoil quickly;
sometimes referred to
you’re more likely to find them at farmers’
as “America’s forgot-
markets when they’re in season. Depending
ten fruit”—are the
on their latitude, pawpaws can be harvested
largest fruit indig-
from late July to October, when the trees’ big
enous to North
green leaves begin to turn golden, which indi-
America. These
cates that the fruit is ripe. Pawpaws must
green-skinned
be picked when ripe (unripe pawpaws
peanut-shaped
will not ripen off the tree). There
fruits range from
are a few small processing
3 to 6 inches
plants in the growing regions
long. Their inte-
where locals can process
riors vary from
their pawpaws, allowing
a soft yellow to
people to order pack-
a golden or light
aged pulp online, but
orange hue. Each
they sell out quickly.
pawpaw contains
several large lima bean–
size seeds. This seemingly
tropical fruit grows in hanging
clusters that resemble a “hand”
of bananas. Some people refer to
papayas as pawpaws (or papaws), but
they are not the same fruit.
A member of the custard-apple family,
pawpaws have creamy, rich, and custardy
flesh. Their sweet flesh is highly aromatic
and lacks tartness and acidity. The flesh
has notes of banana, mango, and pine-
apple and varies in flavor depending on
the variety and growing location. Under-
ripe pawpaws are generally quite mild,
Photography: Shutterstock

but like bananas, they intensify in flavor

as they ripen.

14 CO OK’S COU NT RY • O CTO BE R/N OVEMBER 2023

 Pawpaw seeds
PICKING FRESH and skin contain
PA W PA W F E S T I VA L S A N D T R E AT S
F L AV O R F U L PROCESSED alkaloids that can
PAW PAW S
Pawpaw festivals showcase this delectable fruit across the
PULP cause illness—don’t
eastern United States. The Ohio Pawpaw Festival is known
Picking a ripe pawpaw is similar to We prefer the flavor of eat them!
for events including cook-offs, competitions for the best and
choosing a ripe avocado or peach; raw pawpaws to cooked,
biggest pawpaws, and a pawpaw-eating contest. While most
use the squeeze test. The most as cooking pawpaws lessens
people who forage for pawpaws love to cut them open ripe from
accurate test for ripeness is to their tropical notes. For fresh
the picking and squeeze the sweet pulp directly into their mouths
place the fruit in the palm of your pulp to use the next day, place it in an
before spitting out the seeds, some will mix the flesh into other sweet
hand and gently squeeze: It should airtight container and place plastic
treats, sauces, and beverages. Some of the crowd favorites are pawpaw
yield slightly to the pressure. Ripe wrap directly on the surface of the
ice cream and pawpaw beer. Inspired by the idea of a pawpaw ice cream,
pawpaws should also give off a pulp to prevent oxidation.
we developed our own recipe for this frosty treat.
mango- or banana-like smell. Some
prefer very ripe pawpaws, heavily
speckled (or even black), in their FROZEN PULP
recipes—similar to ripe bananas Freezing the fruit’s pulp is the
used for banana bread. most reliable way to preserve it.
To freeze pawpaw pulp, add 1-cup
portions (or enough for one recipe)
STORING of pawpaw pulp to zipper-lock or
PAW PAW S vacuum-sealable bags. To guarantee
Pawpaws bruise easily, so trim any a clean edge, fold back the last 2 to
stems and store the fruit in a single 3 inches of the bag into a cuff before
layer at room temperature for a few adding the pulp. Once the pulp is
days. Fully ripened pawpaws can be in the bag, simply unfold the cuff,
refrigerated for up to a week. remove as much air as possible, and
seal. Frozen pawpaw pulp is best
thawed in the refrigerator overnight
or by submerging the packages in a PAWPAW IC E CR EAM second large bowl until smooth,
water bath. Serves 8 (Makes about 1 quart) about 30 seconds.
Total Time: 1 hour, plus 5 hours 2. Heat cream, milk, corn syrup,
chilling and freezing salt, and remaining 6 tablespoons
H O W T O P R E P A PAW PAW An instant-read thermometer is sugar in medium saucepan over
critical for the best results. Using medium-high heat, stirring occa-
a prechilled metal loaf pan and sionally, until mixture registers
working quickly in step 4 will 175 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes.
help prevent melting and Remove saucepan from heat.
refreezing of the ice cream and Slowly whisk heated cream mix-
will speed the hardening process. ture into yolk mixture.
If using a canister-style ice cream 3. Return mixture to saucepan
maker, be sure to freeze the and cook over medium-low
empty canister at least 24 hours heat, stirring constantly, until
and preferably 48 hours before mixture thickens and registers
churning. For self-refrigerating 180 degrees, about 4 minutes.
ice cream makers, prechill the Immediately pour custard
1. Using chef’s knife, halve pawpaw 2. Using spoon, remove seeds from canister by running the machine through prepared strainer and
lengthwise and pull apart with pawpaw halves. for 5 to 10 minutes before pour- let cool until no longer steaming,
your hands. ing in the custard. about 20 minutes, stirring occa-
sionally. Cover and refrigerate
6 large egg yolks until well chilled, at least 2 hours
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons or up to 24 hours.
(41⁄3 ounces) sugar, divided 4. Whisk pawpaw pulp into
1¾ cups heavy cream custard. Transfer custard to
1 cup whole milk ice cream maker and churn
1⁄3 cup light corn syrup until mixture resembles thick
¼ teaspoon table salt soft-serve ice cream and registers
1 cup mashed pawpaw pulp about 21 degrees, 15 to 25 min-
utes. Transfer ice cream to chilled
1. Place 8½ by 4½-inch loaf loaf pan and press plastic wrap
pan in freezer. Set fine-mesh onto surface. Freeze until firm, at
3. Scoop seeded pawpaw flesh out 4. Evenly mash pawpaws into coarse strainer in large bowl. Whisk least 3 hours. Serve.
of skins and into large bowl. pulp with potato masher. egg yolks and ¼ cup sugar in

OCTOBER/N OVE MB E R 2023 • COO K’S COU NTRY 15

 Cranberry-Glazed Pork Loin
Here’s how to achieve an unfailingly juicy roast with a glossy, lacquered, flavorful glaze.
by Matthew Fairman

The cranberry flavor is

bolstered by hoisin, honey,
ginger, and orange.

16 CO O K’S COU NT RY • OCTOBE R/ N OV E MBE R 2023

THIS RECIPE TRANSFORMS Simmering a mixture of CRANB ERRY-GLAZE D ROAST POR K LOIN
an affordable cut into an occasion- cranberries, cranberry juice, Serves 6 to 8
worthy centerpiece: a juicy, honey, hoisin sauce, orange juice, Total Time: 2¼ hours, plus 12 hours 20 minutes salting and resting
thoroughly seasoned pork loin and ginger makes for a complex A blade-end roast is our preferred cut, but a center-cut boneless pork loin
burnished with a bright, tart cran- but cranberry-forward glaze. roast can also be used. This recipe calls for cranberry juice cocktail, which
berry glaze. The almost-candied, The sweet, floral honey both is sweetened cranberry juice; avoid unsweetened cranberry juice. Note
caramelized, savory-sweet edges of complements and offsets the that the meat needs to be seasoned for at least 12 hours before cooking.
the roast make a delectable crust. tartness of the cranberries, while
The failproof recipe for achiev- the hoisin gives the glaze a savory 1 (3-pound) boneless blade-end and rubber spatula dragged across
ing these impressive results hinges backbone. The fresh ginger adds pork loin roast, trimmed bottom of pan leaves trail that fills
on some key steps. Since pork loin subtle heat, further balancing the 1 tablespoon kosher salt in quickly, 12 to 16 minutes. (Mix-
is a lean cut with subtle flavor, it glaze’s sweetness. 2 teaspoons pepper ture should be reduced to 2⅔ cups
requires careful treatment. Salting Achieving a glaze with just the 1½ teaspoons five-spice powder before straining.) Strain cranberry
the pork at least 12 hours before right consistency to adhere to and 10 ounces (2½ cups) fresh or mixture through fine-mesh strainer
roasting ensures that it is well coat the roast mostly boils down frozen cranberries set over bowl, pressing on solids to
seasoned and helps keep the meat to cooking off a precise amount 2 cups cranberry juice cocktail extract as much liquid as possible;
tender and juicy. Cranberries and of moisture. Here, reducing the ½ cup honey discard solids.
pork both pair beautifully with sauce to 2⅔ cups delivers consis- 1⁄3 cup hoisin sauce 4. Measure out ¾ cup cranberry
warm spices, so a bit of five-spice— tent results. Brushing the pork ¼ cup orange juice glaze for brushing pork; reserve
with its notes of cinnamon, star with a portion of the glaze in 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger remaining glaze for serving. Line
anise, Sichuan peppercorn, fennel, three applications (once before rimmed baking sheet with alumi-
and clove—provides additional and twice during roasting) ensures 1. Pat pork dry with paper num foil and set wire rack in sheet.
depth with the salt. Finally, remov- that it emerges from the oven towels. Combine salt, pepper, Spray rack with vegetable oil spray.
ing the roast from the oven when it evenly and thickly lacquered. and five-spice powder in bowl. Unwrap pork and place fat side up
reaches 130 degrees takes carry- The remainder of the delicious Sprinkle pork all over with salt on prepared rack. Brush top and
over cooking into account, keeping glaze doubles as a finishing sauce, mixture. Wrap pork tightly in sides of pork with ¼ cup glaze.
the meat from overcooking (which meaning that each bite has ample plastic wrap and refrigerate for at Roast pork for 25 minutes.
can make it dry or chalky). cranberry flavor. least 12 hours or up to 24 hours. 5. Remove pork from oven and
2. Adjust oven rack to upper- brush with ¼ cup glaze. Return
middle position and heat oven to oven and roast for 25 minutes.
Blade-End versus Center-Cut Pork Loin: to 375 degrees. Bring cranber- Remove pork from oven and
What’s the Difference? ries, cranberry juice, honey, repeat brushing with remaining
This recipe works well with either a blade-end or center-cut pork loin, hoisin, orange juice, and ginger ¼ cup glaze. Return to oven and
but we prefer the blade-end. What exactly does that mean? to boil in medium saucepan over continue to roast until pork regis-
Boneless pork loin roasts are cut from the primal loin, the long medium-high heat and cook until ters 130 degrees, 20 to 40 minutes
stretch of muscles (and bones) in the center of the hog’s back between cranberries begin to burst, 3 to longer, checking temperature
the shoulder and the hind legs. The portion of the loin closest to the 5 minutes. Off heat, mash cran- every 5 minutes after 20 minutes.
head is known as the blade end because it abuts the blade, or shoulder. berries with potato masher until Transfer roast to carving board,
mostly broken down. tent with foil, and let rest for
A boneless blade-end roast is cut from the fatty shoulder end of
3. Return cranberry mixture to boil 20 minutes.
the loin. It contains parts of more than one muscle, some dark meat
over medium-high heat and cook, 6. Microwave reserved glaze until
(which is less prone to drying out), and/or some connective tissue. It
stirring often and adjusting heat warm, 30 to 60 seconds. Slice pork
has a bit more fat and more flavor.
as needed to maintain vigorous thin and serve with glaze.
A boneless center-cut roast contains just the large, lighter-colored, simmer, until glaze is thickened
lean loin muscle, typically with a thin fat cap surrounding most of the
roast. The entirety of this cut is quite lean, with a clean, mild taste.
Getting the Glaze Right
For a glaze that clings to the
pork rather than runs off, boil the
cranberry mixture until thickened
enough that a rubber spatula
dragged through it leaves a trail
that fills in quickly.
BONELESS BLADE-END BONELESS CENTER-CUT
ROAST ROAST

O CTOBE R/ NOVE M BE R 2023 • CO OK’S COU NT RY 17

 Ricotta Salata
Meaning “recooked and salted”
in Italian, ricotta salata is a firm,
dry cheese with a salty flavor. Its
sliceability makes it a
nice addition to sal-
ads such as this one.

SP I CED O RA NGE AND

FE NN EL SA LA D
Serves 4 to 6
Total Time: 25 minutes
For the most striking visual, we
like to use a combination of orange
varieties here. We recommend
using a rasp-style grater to grate
the citrus zest. You can substitute
feta for the ricotta salata.
Citrus, spices,
and a little crunch
make for a lively ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
winter salad. 1 shallot, minced
1 teaspoon table salt

Spiced Orange
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
plus 2½ tablespoons juice

and Fennel Salad

1½ pounds navel oranges, blood
oranges, Cara Cara oranges,
mandarins, or a combination,
plus ½ teaspoon grated
As the weather gets colder, citrus gets more appealing— orange zest
½ teaspoon ground cumin
especially when paired with fennel and spices. by Morgan Bolling ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 fennel bulb, stalks discarded,
bulb halved, cored, and
THIS IS THE time of year when and pith from the oranges, and sliced thin crosswise
the produce section is generally then slice them crosswise into Making Orange Rounds 4 ounces ricotta salata, sliced thin
starting to look less bountiful, but shiny, juicy rounds—another ¼ cup chopped fresh mint, divided
one subsection is just beginning to maneuver for a gorgeous look.
shine: citrus. Citrus fruits actually Thinly slice a bulb of fennel 1. Whisk oil, shallot, salt, sugar,
get sweeter in the winter, when to add crunch and let it sit in a lemon zest and juice, orange zest,
they are plentiful at the market, bold dressing made with olive cumin, and cinnamon together in
making them a great option to oil, lemon, cumin, just a touch of large bowl. Add fennel and toss to
brighten dinner on a cold night. cinnamon, and a little sugar. The combine; set aside.
For this take on an orange lemon adds more acidic tartness 2. Cut away peel and pith from
salad, start at the store. If you’re than orange juice while the spices oranges, then slice fruit cross-
lucky and your grocery store contribute complexity and warmth. wise into ¼-inch-thick rounds.
carries blood oranges or Cara Toss the fennel and oranges Add oranges, ricotta salata, and
Cara oranges, buy a mix of those together and finish with slices of 2 tablespoons mint to bowl with
alongside navel oranges and/or briny, salty ricotta salata (feta works fennel and toss gently to combine.
mandarins. The different colors of just fine too) and some chopped Cut away peel and pith Season with salt and pepper to
flesh and sizes of orange slices will fresh mint. Whether you love from oranges, then slice fruit taste. Transfer to serving plat-
look strikingly beautiful together. winter or hate it, this salad is sure crosswise ¼ inch thick. ter and sprinkle with remaining
Use a sharp knife to cut the peels to brighten your day. 2 tablespoons mint. Serve.

18 CO OK’S COU NT RY • OCTOB ER/ NOVEM BER 2023

 on the EVOO—we use ½ cup for becoming greasy. Add the rest
2 pounds of potatoes—and you of the oil as you mash to ensure
need to use a bit of technique. an even texture. The traditional
To start, peel and cut Yukon hand-mashing method works best
Gold potatoes into chunks and here to incorporate all the oil
simmer them in salted water until without overworking the pota-
tender, which takes toes, which can create a
about 15 minutes; our gluey texture.
. . . salting
testing has shown that Once the oil has
the water
salting the water really been mashed in,
does result in better really does season the potatoes
seasoned potatoes. result in by whisking in lemon
Before draining, better zest (to highlight the
reserve a cup of the seasoned oil’s fruity notes),
starchy cooking water, potatoes. black pepper (which
which is a key to get- teases out the peppery
ting the final texture just nuance in the oil), and
right. Then, drain the potatoes and salt. To finish, drizzle with a mix-
mash some of the reserved cooking ture of more olive oil, more black
liquid and some of the olive oil pepper, and more lemon zest and
into them. Adding both together serve. The result is a side dish that
creates an emulsion of the liquid is equally stunning, refreshing,
and the oil, allowing the potatoes and packed with flavor. Bring on
to fully absorb the mixture without the turkey and all the trimmings!

A drizzle of olive oil OLIVE OIL MASHED POTATOES and simmer until potatoes are
seasoned with black Serves 4 to 6 fork-tender, 15 to 18 minutes.
pepper and lemon zest Total Time: 40 minutes 2. Reserve 1 cup cooking water,
reinforces the olive oil
flavor in the potatoes. We developed this recipe with then drain potatoes. Return
California Olive Ranch Global potatoes to now-empty saucepan.
Blend Medium Extra Virgin Olive Add ¼ cup oil and ¼ cup reserved

Olive Oil
Oil. Any well-balanced extra-virgin cooking water and mash with
olive oil will work in this recipe; potato masher until oil and water

Mashed
For the best results, avoid olive oils are fully incorporated. Add ¼ cup
with markedly bitter notes. cooking water and remaining
¼ cup oil and continue to mash

Potatoes
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon until fully incorporated.
extra-virgin olive oil, divided 3. Scrape down sides of saucepan
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest, with rubber spatula. Add salt,
divided remaining ¼ teaspoon lemon zest,
and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper
A lighter but deeply flavorful version of ½ teaspoon pepper, divided
2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, and whisk until smooth and no
everyone’s favorite side dish. by Kelly Song peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces lumps remain, about 30 seconds.
¼ teaspoon table salt, plus salt for (Whisk in reserved cooking water
cooking potatoes as needed, 2 tablespoons at a
M A S H E D P O TAT O E S A R E the Thanksgiving meal’s crowd-pleaser— time, until potatoes are glossy and
who doesn’t love buttery, creamy spuds? But they can be so heavy that 1. Stir 1 tablespoon oil, ¼ teaspoon smooth; you needn’t use all the
you don’t always have room for much else. lemon zest, and ¼ teaspoon pep- cooking water.)
For this recipe, we sought to create lighter mashed potatoes that per together in small bowl; set 4. Transfer potatoes to serving
felt more fitting for a vibrant dinner, without sacrificing any of their aside for serving. Bring 2 quarts bowl and use back of spoon to cre-
textural or flavor appeal. Instead of using cream or butter, we decided water, potatoes, and 2 tablespoons ate divots on surface. Drizzle with
on extra-virgin olive oil as the fat of choice (potatoes mashed without salt to boil in large saucepan over reserved oil mixture. Serve.
fat lack richness and cohesion). To make this dish work, you can’t skimp high heat. Reduce heat to medium

O CTOB ER /N OVE MB ER 2023 • COO K’S COUN T RY 19

 PAN-SE ARED CHI CKE N ¼-inch thickness. Pat chicken dry
CUTLETS WITH W ILTED with paper towels and arrange in
BAS I L AN D PIN E N UTS even layer on large plate. Sprinkle
Serves 4 to 6 cutlets on both sides with salt and
Total Time: 50 minutes pepper flakes and refrigerate for
Toast the pine nuts in a dry skillet 15 to 30 minutes.
over medium heat, stirring often, 2. Spread flour in shallow dish.
until they are lightly browned Working with 1 cutlet at a time
and fragrant. You can substitute (do not pat them dry), dredge
chopped almonds or walnuts for cutlets in flour, shaking gently
the pine nuts. You will need about to remove excess, and transfer to
4 ounces of fresh basil (sold in clean, large plate.
The topping on sprigs), or several average bunches, 3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in
these cutlets to yield 2 cups of leaves; be sure 12-inch nonstick skillet over high
incorporates all
the elements of
the basil is very fresh, or it might heat until just smoking. Place
basil pesto. oxidize slightly as it wilts. 4 cutlets in skillet and cook until
spotty brown on first side, about

Seared Chicken
4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless skinless 2 minutes. Flip cutlets and cook
chicken breasts, trimmed until second side is spotty brown
1 teaspoon table salt and cutlets are cooked through,

Cutlets
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes about 2 minutes. Transfer to serv-
½ cup all-purpose flour ing platter. Repeat with 2 table-
spoons oil and remaining 4 cutlets.

with Basil
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive
oil, divided (Do not wipe skillet clean between
2 garlic cloves, minced batches unless flour has burned.)
2 cups (2 ounces) fresh basil 4. Off heat, add remaining
leaves 2 tablespoons oil and garlic to
The fragrant herb takes center stage in this 2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted oil remaining in skillet and cook,
using residual heat, until garlic is
simple one-pan dinner. by Nicole Konstantinakos 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, shaved pale golden, about 1 minute. Add
with vegetable peeler basil and toss constantly with tongs
P E R F E C T LY S E A S O N E D , for a profile inspired by all the until basil is wilted but still bright
tender, delicately browned chicken things we love about classic pesto: 1 . Halve chicken breasts hori- green, about 30 seconds. Stir in
cutlets are a delight in their own peppery basil, pine nuts, olive oil, zontally to form 8 cutlets. Place pine nuts and vinegar. Spoon basil
right (and are pretty much good pungent garlic, and salty-tangy cutlets between sheets of plastic mixture over chicken. Top with
to go with a squeeze of lemon or Parmesan cheese. Rather than wrap and gently pound to even Parmesan and serve.
a drizzle of your favorite condi- make actual pesto, we experiment-
ment), but we wanted to come up ed with building a quick topping
with a simple dish that was easy using the same ingredients. We How to Make Thin, Even Cutlets
to prepare yet also a tad surpris- discovered that our star ingredi-
ing. We started by prepping the ent—basil—could be treated in
chicken. Halving boneless chicken much the same way as you might
breasts horizontally and then treat baby spinach, with brilliant
pounding them to ¼-inch thick- results: After cooking the chicken,
ness ensured that they cooked using the residual heat of the skil-
through quickly in a hot skillet but let, we toasted garlic in olive oil
still had enough time to pick up and then added a generous pile of
some browning, which we further basil leaves, which wilted into a
encouraged by dredging them in bright green, fragrant tangle. We
flour prior to cooking. added a handful of toasted pine
Mild chicken breasts pair nuts and a splash of balsamic vin-
beautifully with a range of flavors, egar. Then, we swept the mixture 1. Halve each chicken breast horizon- 2. Place cutlets between sheets of
from delicate to intense. Here out of the skillet over our perfectly tally to form 2 cutlets. plastic wrap and gently pound to
we used them as a blank canvas pan-seared cutlets. even ¼-inch thickness.

20 COO K’S COU N T RY • O CTO BE R/ N OVE MBER 2023

 STIR-FRIED VEGETABLES AND PORK
FILETS MIGNONS WITH PARSNIP PUREE WITH CRISPY WONTONS

DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 45 MINUTES DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 30 MINUTES

SHRIMP SCAMPI WITH ZUCCHINI NOODLES GLAZED SALMON WITH KALE, PEAR, AND CHEDDAR SALAD

DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 45 MINUTES DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 35 MINUTES

 Stir-Fried Vegetables and Pork with Crispy Wontons Filets Mignons with Parsnip Puree

You can usually find crispy wonton 1 . Combine soy sauce, vinegar, Serve this dish sprinkled with minced and blend until smooth, about
strips in the supermarket with croutons sugar, and oil in bowl. Cook pork in fresh chives. 1 minute, scraping down blender
or in the international aisles. Serve this 12-inch skillet over medium-high jar as needed.
stir-fry over steamed rice and drizzle 2 pounds parsnips, peeled and
heat until no longer pink, 5 to
with Chinese hot mustard and/or duck sliced ¼ inch thick
7 minutes, breaking up meat 2. Meanwhile, pat steaks dry with
sauce, if desired.
with wooden spoon. Add scallion 2½ cups chicken broth, divided paper towels and sprinkle with
whites, garlic, and ginger and cook 11 tablespoons unsalted butter, pepper and remaining 1 teaspoon
½ cup soy sauce
until fragrant, about 1 minute. divided salt. Melt 1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons unseasoned
Add coleslaw mix, mushrooms, 2 teaspoons table salt, divided in 12-inch nonstick skillet over
rice vinegar
and soy sauce mixture and cook 2 tablespoons prepared medium-high heat. Add steaks
1 tablespoon sugar
until cabbage is just wilted, about horseradish and cook until browned and meat
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
3 minutes. 4 (6- to 8-ounce) center-cut registers 120 to 125 degrees,
1 pound ground pork
filets mignons, 2 inches 4 to 6 minutes per side. Transfer
6 scallions, white and green
2. Off heat, stir in scallion greens. thick, trimmed steaks to platter and wipe skillet
parts separated and
Divide pork mixture among indi- ½ teaspoon pepper clean with paper towels.
sliced thin
vidual bowls. Sprinkle with wonton 1 shallot, minced
4 garlic cloves, minced
strips and serve. ½ cup red wine 3. Add 1 tablespoon butter and
4 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon packed brown sugar shallot to skillet and cook over
1 (12- to 14-ounce) bag green
¼ teaspoon minced fresh thyme medium heat until shallot is
coleslaw mix
softened, about 2 minutes. Add
8 ounces shiitake mushrooms,
1. Bring parsnips, 2 cups broth, wine and sugar and simmer
stemmed and sliced thin
6 tablespoons butter, and until reduced to glaze, about
2 cups crispy wonton strips
1 teaspoon salt to boil in large 3 minutes. Add remaining ½ cup
saucepan over medium-high broth and steak juices from plat-
heat. Cover; reduce heat to ter and simmer until reduced to
medium-low; and cook, stirring 1⁄3 cup, about 3 minutes. Off heat,
occasionally, until tender, about whisk in thyme and remaining
20 minutes. Transfer parsnip mix- 3 tablespoons butter. Serve.
ture to blender; add horseradish;

Glazed Salmon with Kale, Pear, and Cheddar Salad Shrimp Scampi with Zucchini Noodles

If your cheddar is aged enough, you 1. Whisk 2 tablespoons jelly, oil, If possible, use smaller zucchini, sheet and roast until zucchini
can crumble it instead of cutting it, vinegar, shallot, ½ teaspoon salt, which have thinner skins and fewer is softened, about 10 minutes.
creating craggier surfaces to soak up and ¼ teaspoon pepper together seeds. Sprinkle with chopped fresh Transfer zucchini to colander and
more dressing. You can sprinkle some parsley and serve with lemon wedges.
in large bowl. Add kale and toss to let drain.
toasted chopped walnuts or pecans
combine; set aside.
on the salad for extra crunch. 3 pounds zucchini, trimmed
2. Meanwhile, combine lemon
2. Adjust oven rack 8 inches from 2 tablespoons extra-virgin
juice and cornstarch in bowl.
6 tablespoons red pepper jelly, olive oil, divided
broiler element and heat broiler. Sprinkle shrimp with remaining
divided 1¾ teaspoons table salt, divided
Line rimmed baking sheet with foil ¼ teaspoon salt. Heat remaining
3 tablespoons extra-virgin 2 tablespoons lemon juice
and spray with vegetable oil spray. 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, and pep-
olive oil 1 teaspoon cornstarch
Place salmon, skin side down, on per flakes in 12-inch nonstick skil-
3 tablespoons cider vinegar 1 pound large shrimp (26 to
prepared sheet. Sprinkle salmon let over medium-low heat, stirring
1 shallot, minced 30 per pound), peeled and
with 1 teaspoon salt and remain- occasionally, until garlic begins to
1¾ teaspoons table salt, divided deveined
ing ¼ teaspoon pepper. Whisk brown at edges, 3 to 5 minutes.
½ teaspoon pepper, divided 8 garlic cloves, sliced thin
cayenne and remaining ¼ cup Add wine and clam juice, increase
8 ounces lacinato kale, ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
pepper jelly and ¼ teaspoon salt heat to medium-high, and bring
stemmed and sliced into ¼ cup dry white wine
together in bowl. Brush jelly mix- to simmer. Add shrimp; cover;
¼-inch-wide strips (6 cups) ¼ cup bottled clam juice
ture all over salmon. Broil salmon and cook, stirring occasionally,
4 (6- to 8-ounce) skin-on salmon 4 tablespoons unsalted butter,
until deeply browned and centers until shrimp are just opaque, 4 to
fillets, 1 to 1½ inches thick cut into ½-inch pieces
of fillets register 125 degrees (for 6 minutes. Transfer shrimp to
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
medium-rare), 8 to 12 minutes. large bowl using slotted spoon.
1 ripe pear, halved, cored, 1. Adjust oven rack to middle
and cut into 2-inch-long position and heat oven to
3. Add pear and cheddar to kale 3. Add lemon juice mixture to
matchsticks 375 degrees. Using spiralizer,
mixture and toss to combine. skillet and cook over medium
4 ounces extra-sharp cut zucchini into 1⁄8-inch-thick
Serve with salmon. heat until thickened, about
cheddar cheese, cut into noodles, then cut into 12-inch 1 minute. Off heat, whisk in but-
¼-inch pieces lengths. Toss zucchini with ter. Transfer sauce and zucchini
1 tablespoon oil and 1½ tea- to bowl with shrimp and toss to
spoons salt on rimmed baking combine. Serve.
ROASTED CHICKEN THIGHS WITH POTATOES AND GREEN BEANS TURKEY BURGERS WITH PICKLED CRANBERRIES

DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 50 MINUTES DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 45 MINUTES

BULGUR WITH ROASTED VEGETABLES, WHITE BEANS,

AND ARUGULA SALAD PEPPERONI PIZZA WITH BLUE CHEESE, PICKLED PEPPERS, AND HONEY

DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 1 HOUR DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 45 MINUTES

 Turkey Burgers with Pickled Cranberries Roasted Chicken Thighs with Potatoes and Green Beans

Be sure to use 93 percent lean ground burst, about 2 minutes. Transfer For a nonalcoholic version of this and ½ teaspoon pepper in large
turkey, not 99 percent fat-free ground to heatproof bowl and stir in ice. recipe, substitute chicken broth for bowl. Microwave, covered, until
turkey breast, in this recipe or the Refrigerate until needed. the wine. vegetables are just tender, 12 to
burgers will be tough. Top the burgers 15 minutes, stirring once halfway
with your favorite burger toppings, 2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes,
2 . Combine turkey, panko, ½ cup through microwaving. Transfer
such as thinly sliced red onion and unpeeled, cut into ½-inch
Monterey Jack, ¼ cup mayonnaise, mixture to 13 by 9-inch baking
leaves of Bibb lettuce. We like to serve
poultry seasoning, and salt in pieces dish and press into even layer.
these burgers with sweet potato fries.
bowl. Using your hands, pat turkey 1 pound green beans, trimmed
mixture into four ¾-inch-thick and cut into 2-inch lengths 2. Meanwhile, pat chicken dry
4 ounces (1 cup) frozen
patties, about 4 inches in diameter. 2 tablespoons extra-virgin with paper towels. Sprinkle all
cranberries
Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet olive oil over with remaining 1½ tea-
¼ cup cider vinegar
over medium heat until shim- 1½ tablespoons kosher salt, spoons salt and ½ teaspoon
¼ cup sugar
mering. Transfer patties to skillet divided pepper. Place chicken, skin side
¼ cup ice
and cook until well browned and 3 garlic cloves, minced down, in 12-inch nonstick skillet.
1 pound ground turkey
burgers register 160 degrees, 5 to 2 teaspoons minced fresh sage Cook over medium-high heat
1 cup panko bread crumbs
7 minutes per side. Top burgers 1 teaspoon minced fresh until skin is light golden brown,
4 ounces Monterey Jack
with remaining ½ cup Monterey rosemary about 10 minutes. Flip chicken
cheese, shredded (1 cup),
Jack; cover; and cook until cheese 1 teaspoon pepper, divided and cook until second side is well
divided
is melted, about 1 minute. Transfer 8 (5- to 7-ounce) bone-in browned, about 5 minutes.
½ cup mayonnaise, divided
burgers to plate. chicken thighs, trimmed
1½ teaspoons poultry seasoning
¼ cup dry white wine 3. Arrange chicken, skin side up,
½ teaspoon table salt
3. Spread remaining ¼ cup 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest on top of potato mixture. Off heat,
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
mayonnaise evenly over cut sides plus 1 tablespoon juice carefully stir wine and lemon zest
4 brioche buns, toasted
of buns. Arrange burgers on bun and juice into fat remaining in
bottoms and use slotted spoon 1. Adjust oven rack to skillet, then drizzle evenly over
1 . Bring cranberries, vinegar, and
to distribute pickled cranberries upper-middle position and heat chicken. Roast until chicken reg-
sugar to boil in small saucepan
on burgers. Cover with bun tops oven to 450 degrees. Combine isters at least 175 degrees, 15 to
over medium-high heat. Cook
and serve. potatoes, green beans, oil, 1 table- 20 minutes. Serve.
until cranberries just begin to
spoon salt, garlic, sage, rosemary,

Pepperoni Pizza with Blue Cheese, Pickled Peppers, and Honey Bulgur with Roasted Vegetables, White Beans, and Arugula Salad

If the dough springs back in step 1, 1. Adjust oven rack to low- We like to serve these bowls topped on rimmed baking sheet. Roast
let it rest for a few minutes and est position and heat oven to with chopped pitted kalamata olives. until vegetables are softened and
then stretch it again. For more heat, 500 degrees. Brush rimmed spotty brown, about 20 minutes.
sprinkle the pizza with red pepper 10 ounces cherry tomatoes Stir in beans and roast until
baking sheet with oil. Press and
flakes before serving. 1 red bell pepper, stemmed,
roll dough into 15 by 11-inch rect- heated through, about 5 minutes.
angle on lightly floured counter. seeded, and cut into ¾-inch
2 tablespoons extra-virgin pieces
Transfer dough to prepared sheet. 2. Meanwhile, bring 2 quarts
olive oil 1 small red onion, cut into
Spread sauce evenly over top. water to boil in large saucepan.
1 pound pizza dough, room ¾-inch pieces
Sprinkle with mozzarella and blue Add bulgur and 1 teaspoon salt.
temperature ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil,
cheese. Top pizza with pepperoni Reduce heat to medium-low and
½ cup jarred marinara sauce divided
and cherry peppers. simmer until tender, 6 to 10 min-
8 ounces whole-milk block 1¾ teaspoons table salt, divided, utes. Drain bulgur in fine-mesh
mozzarella cheese, shredded plus salt for cooking bulgur
2 . Bake until cheese is spotty strainer and return to saucepan.
(2 cups) 1 (15-ounce) can cannellini
brown and crust is golden, Stir in 2 tablespoons oil and
4 ounces blue cheese, beans, rinsed
10 to 15 minutes, rotating sheet ¼ teaspoon salt.
crumbled (1 cup) 1¼ cups medium-grind bulgur
halfway through baking. Transfer
2 ounces thinly sliced 1 tablespoon lemon juice
pizza to wire rack and let cool 3. Whisk lemon juice, ¼ teaspoon
pepperoni 5 ounces (5 cups) baby
for 5 minutes. Drizzle honey over salt, and remaining 2 table-
1⁄3 cup thinly sliced jarred hot arugula
pizza. Slice and serve. spoons oil together in large bowl.
cherry peppers ¾ cup plain whole-milk Greek Add arugula and toss to coat.
1 tablespoon honey yogurt Combine yogurt, sambal oelek,
2 tablespoons sambal oelek 3 tablespoons water, and remain-
ing ¼ teaspoon salt in second
1. Adjust oven rack to middle bowl. Divide bulgur, roasted
position and heat oven to vegetable mixture, and arugula
450 degrees. Toss tomatoes, among individual bowls. Drizzle
bell pepper, onion, ¼ cup oil, with yogurt mixture and serve.
and 1 teaspoon salt together
 Beet Dip
with Yogurt
and Tahini
This earthy, sweet, and vibrant dip will
brighten any table. by Amanda Luchtel

T A K I N G I N S P I R A T I O N from Aleppo pepper (mild dried chile

beet dips found in Middle Eastern flakes with a subtle fruity flavor)
cuisine and at restaurants and contribute heat and spice. Dried
specialty markets in the United mint adds a cooling note. Chilling
States—such as kiz güzeli (a the dip for 30 minutes allows the
Turkish dip made with beets, flavors to meld and the color to Roasting
yogurt, and garlic) and mutabbal deepen to a striking magenta. fresh beets
shamander (a Syrian dip featuring A sprinkle of fresh dill delivers results in the
most deeply
beets and tahini)—this bright dip contrasting color and freshness. hued dip.
combines shredded roasted beets This dip makes a colorful addi-
with thick, creamy Greek yogurt tion to a meze table, alongside
and nutty tahini. other Middle Eastern favorites BE ET DIP WIT H YO GURT AN D TAHIN I
Roasting beets concentrates such as pita bread, hummus, Serves 6 to 8 Total Time: 2¼ hours, plus 30 minutes resting
their flavor and sweetness, and baba ghanoush, and stuffed To ensure even cooking, look for beets of similar size—roughly 2 to
the rich yogurt helps round out grape leaves; pair it with fresh 3 inches in diameter. If you can’t find Aleppo pepper, you can substitute
their earthiness. Fresh lemon cucumbers or crispy pita chips ½ teaspoon of paprika plus ⅛ teaspoon of red pepper flakes. Serve this
juice and subtly bitter tahini bal- for dipping. Or spread it on a dip with cucumber slices; pita chips; or crackers, such as our Quick
ance the sweetness, while minced sandwich or in a pita pocket. Seeded Lavash Crackers on page 44.
fresh garlic, warm cumin, and
1¼ pounds red or golden beets, knife, 1¼ to 1½ hours. Care-
trimmed fully open packet and set beets
Substituting Precooked Beets 1 cup plain whole-milk Greek aside to cool completely, about
We prefer the balanced flavor that freshly roasted beets bring to this dip, yogurt 25 minutes. Rub off skins with
but the convenience of precooked beets can’t be overlooked. One pound 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive paper towels.
of precooked vacuum-packed beets or one (15-ounce) can of beets can oil, divided 2. Meanwhile, whisk yogurt,
be used in place of the raw beets; skip step 1 and drain off any liquid ¼ cup tahini ¼ cup oil, tahini, lemon juice, gar-
before shredding the beets. The color and flavor of the ¼ cup lemon juice (2 lemons) lic, mint, salt, Aleppo pepper, and
dip will vary slightly depending on which beets you use. 3 garlic cloves, minced cumin together in large bowl.
2 teaspoons dried mint 3. Shred cooled beets on large
CA NN ED 1½ teaspoons table salt holes of box grater or using
Canned beets are cooked in water, so the colorful juice and 1 teaspoon ground dried shredding disk of food processor.
much of the beets’ soluble sugar leaches out, leaving the Aleppo pepper, plus extra Stir beets into yogurt mixture
beets less sweet and more translucent. Canned beets will for seasoning and refrigerate for 30 minutes to
result in a lighter-colored dip with a slightly saltier, more acidic ¼ teaspoon ground cumin allow flavors to meld. (Dip can be
end product. If using canned beets, reduce the salt to 1 teaspoon and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill refrigerated for up to 3 days.)
season to taste before serving. 4. Stir dip to recombine a
1. Adjust oven rack to middle nd season with salt and Aleppo
VACU UM- PACK ED position and heat oven to pepper to taste. Transfer to
Vacuum-packed beets are often cooked directly in the 350 degrees. Wrap beets in alu- serving bowl, drizzle with
pouch or steamed without extra water, so they retain their minum foil packet and place on remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and
sweetness and flavor. The concentrated flavor of these rimmed baking sheet. Roast until sprinkle with dill. Serve chilled
beets makes our dip taste slightly sweeter. beets offer no resistance when or at room temperature.
pierced through foil with paring

OCTO BE R/N OVE MBE R 2023 • CO O K’S COUNT RY 25

 These handheld snacks
are like leveled-up
pigs in blankets.

Sausage Breakdown

1. Cut sausage ring in half, then cut

each half into 3 equal pieces.

2. Slice each piece of sausage in

half lengthwise.

Klobásníky
These buttery, sausage-stuffed Texas Czech pastries are 3. Using paring knife, peel casing
from each piece of sausage.
so worth the effort. by Dawn Orsak
DRIVING EAST FROM my as a klobásník in Czech (usually fillings such as barbecued brisket ago, wraps soft, yeasty, milk- and
home in Austin to my birthplace of misnamed a sausage kolache by or sausage-egg-cheese, cannot be butter-enriched double-risen
Houston along US Route 77 and commercial bakeries) that may be called traditional. dough around smoky, garlicky
Interstate 10, there are almost the current darling. The now-closed Village Bakery, homemade or Texas Czech meat
as many billboards advertising Certainly thousands of klobás- which opened in 1952 in the over- market–made sausage and is liber-
kolaches and klobásníky as there níky (the plural of klobásník) are whelmingly Czech town of West, ally brushed with butter during
are Texas bluebonnets blooming sold daily across Texas and increas- Texas, claimed to have invented the the baking process.
in the spring. However, in the ingly across the United States at klobásník and even trademarked The dough absorbs the rich
stretches between those billboards mom-and-pop shops and national the name, but there are mentions flavor of the butter from the
and in the surrounding counties are (but Texas-based) chains such as in Czech-language newspapers of outside and the smoky aroma
small towns where Texas Czechs, The Kolache Factory and Shipley the pastry being made by home and fatty juiciness of the sausage
including my family, are home Do-Nuts. Hungry commuters cooks that predate the bakery by from the inside in a way that
baking a tastier, more traditional buy them to eat in the car or for decades. My great-aunts will tell distinguishes the finished product
version of the pastry. office meetings, Saturday morning you they remember taking klobás- from mass-produced, doughnut
Whether meat market barbe- sports practice, or Sunday morning níky out to the fields to eat on shop “sausage kolaches.” Smoked
cue, hoppy beer, smoked sausages, church gatherings. In Austin, there breaks from picking cotton on their and fresh sausages are a hallmark
or kolaches, foods of Texas’s Czech are at least two dozen bakeries family farms well before 1953. of Czech cuisine. Immigrants to
community have been of particular serving them. Some are “artisanal” A traditional klobásník, like Texas brought recipes for a variety
interest in food media. But it is bakeries and some are chain estab- those portable lunches made by of sausages, and their descendants
the misunderstood pastry known lishments, but their offerings, with my great-grandmother 80 years still make them, using every part

26 COO K’S COU NTRY • O CTO BE R/ N OVEMBE R 2023

of a pig in different combinations. That’s a Wrap KLOBÁSNÍKY (TEXAS 3 inches long. Slice each piece in
Some versions include barley or CZECH–STYLE SAUSAGE ROLLS) half lengthwise to form 12 equal
rice; some use head meat or offal Makes 12 rolls Total Time: 1½ hours, pieces. Using paring knife, peel
such as heart and liver. But the plus 1½ hours rising casing from sausage pieces; discard
sausage (“klobase” in Czech) inex- One envelope of instant yeast is casing pieces and set sausage aside.
tricably associated with klobásníky 2¼ teaspoons. You can find Prasek’s 4. Adjust oven rack to middle
is the most basic: generally a brand Smoked Pork and Beef position and heat oven to
1-pound, horseshoe-shaped link Sausage at H-E-B grocery stores 375 degrees. Grease 13 by 9-inch
of coarsely ground pork meat (or in Texas or online at praseks.com. baking pan with 2 teaspoons
pork and beef) flavored simply If unavailable, you can substitute melted butter. Transfer dough to
with salt, garlic, pepper, and a 14- or 16-ounce link of kielbasa. lightly greased counter, divide into
sometimes paprika. 1. Working with 1 dough ball at a Removing the casing in step 3 will 12 equal pieces (about 1⅔ ounces
A meticulous cook “peels” the time, place ball seam side up on work best with chilled sausage each), and cover loosely with plas-
casing off the sausage before slic- counter. Using your fingertips, press (though you needn’t remove the tic. Working with 1 piece of dough
ing it into pieces for klobásníky. ball into 4 by 5-inch rectangle. casing if you’re using kielbasa). at a time (keep remaining pieces
And Texas cooks do not skimp on covered), form dough into rough
butter, buttering the pan, buttering ½ cup whole milk ball. Place ball seam side down on
the rising dough balls and also but- 4 tablespoons salted butter, counter, then loosely cup dough
tering the finished pastries when cut into 4 pieces and softened, with your palm and roll in circles
they come out of the oven. plus 2 tablespoons salted butter, against counter to form smooth,
Most often, Texas Czechs melted, divided tight ball. Cover with plastic wrap.
would eat klobásník at a family 1 large egg plus 1 large yolk 5. Working with 1 dough ball at
or community gathering, either 2 tablespoons sugar a time, place ball seam side up
baking the pastries themselves or 2¼ teaspoons instant or rapid-rise on counter. Using your finger-
picking up several dozen at a local yeast tips, press ball into 4 by 5-inch
bakery for an extended family 2. Place 1 piece of sausage cut side ½ teaspoon table salt rectangle. Place 1 piece of sausage
Christmas party, funeral recep- up in center of dough, with long side 2¼ cups (11¼ ounces) all-purpose cut side up in center of dough, with
tion, or heritage group meeting. of sausage parallel to long side of flour long side of sausage parallel to long
For such events, klobásníky might rectangle. 1 (1-pound) ring link Prasek’s side of rectangle. Bring edges of
be one offering in a lunch spread Smoked Pork and Beef Sausage, dough up and around sausage and
served alongside foods such as chilled pinch seams to seal, completely
chicken soup with homemade, encasing sausage. Arrange shaped
fine-cut noodles; pimento cheese 1. Using stand mixer fitted with klobásníky seam side down in
and chicken salad sandwiches; pick- whisk attachment, whisk milk, 3 rows of four in prepared pan.
les; and sliced summer sausage. softened butter, egg and yolk, Brush klobásníky with 2 teaspoons
Typical recipes in community sugar, yeast, and salt on medium melted butter, cover with plastic,
cookbooks make a batch of no speed until thoroughly combined, and let rise again until puffy, 30 to
less than six dozen klobásníky, about 1 minute (some small lumps 45 minutes.
ensuring plenty for historically of butter will remain). Fit stand 6. Remove plastic and bake
large Texas Czech families. As 3. Bring edges of dough up and mixer with dough hook. Add flour until tops of klobásníky are light
successive generations in the around sausage and pinch seams to and mix on low speed until no dry golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes,
community have fewer children, seal, completely encasing sausage. flour remains, about 2 minutes, rotating pan halfway through
smaller families might make one scraping down bowl as needed. baking. Brush with remaining
pan of klobásníky on the weekend, Increase speed to medium and 2 teaspoons melted butter and let
wrap each klobásník individually A True Texas Sausage knead until dough is smooth and cool for 10 minutes. Serve.
in freezer paper or plastic wrap, The smoked pork and beef elastic and clears sides of bowl but
and store them in a zipper-lock sausage sold by Prasek’s sticks to bottom, about 3 minutes.
bag in the freezer for their kids to Family Smokehouse in Texas is 2. Transfer dough to lightly
TO MAKE A HEA D
grab and microwave for breakfast. based on their original Czech greased counter and knead by Klobásníky can be stored in
This recipe makes one dozen but family recipe and is traditional hand to form smooth, round ball, airtight container at room
can easily be multiplied for parties in this recipe. It is available by about 30 seconds. Place dough temperature for up to 2 days or
or holidays. mail order at praseks.com. seam side down in lightly greased frozen. To freeze, wrap fully cooled
large bowl, cover tightly with plas- individual klobásníky in plastic
Dawn Orsak is a fourth-generation tic wrap, and let rise until doubled wrap and freeze in zipper-lock bag
Texas Czech. She is the author of in size, 1 to 1½ hours. for up to 3 months; thaw before
the forthcoming cookbook, Kolach 3. Meanwhile, cut sausage into reheating. To reheat, wrap individ-
Culture: Cooking in Texas Czech 2 equal lengths. Cut each length ual klobásníky in paper towels and
Kitchens for University of Texas Press. into 3 equal pieces, each about microwave for about 30 seconds.

OCTOBE R/ NOVE MBE R 2023 • COOK’S COU N TRY 27

 FLAS H-M ARI N ATED SK IRT temperature for 10 minutes.
ST EAKS WI TH BALSA MI C, Remove steaks from bowl, pat
BLAC K PE PP ER, AND TH YME dry with paper towels, and place
Serves 4 to 6 on plate; discard marinade.
Total Time: 45 minutes 2. Set wire rack in rimmed
It is difficult to take an accurate baking sheet. Heat 1 tablespoon
temperature on skirt steaks vegetable oil in 12-inch nonstick
because they are so thin; if you skillet over medium-high heat
have trouble getting a tem- until shimmering. Add half of
perature reading, rely on the steaks and cook until browned
times in the recipe. See “The on both sides, about 2 minutes
Skinny on Skirt” for informa- per side.
tion on shopping for skirt steak. 3. Continue to cook, flipping
Depending on the length of steaks about every 30 seconds,
your whole skirt steaks, you until steaks are well browned and
will get anywhere from eight to register 130 to 135 degrees, 2 to
10 pieces once the steaks are cut 4 minutes longer. Transfer steaks
into 3- to 4-inch sections. to prepared rack, tent with alumi-
num foil, and let rest for at least
The recipe shown 2 pounds outside skirt steak, 5 minutes. Wipe skillet clean and
here is the variation
with gochujang, sesame,
3 to 4 inches wide and ½ to repeat with remaining 1 table-
and scallion. 1 inch thick, trimmed spoon vegetable oil and steaks.
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 4. Slice steaks thin against grain

Flash-Marinated
3 tablespoons soy sauce and transfer to platter. Pour any
1½ tablespoons extra-virgin accumulated juices from cutting

Skirt Steaks
olive oil board and sheet over steaks.
3 garlic cloves, minced Drizzle with reserved marinade
1 tablespoon honey and sprinkle with remaining
1 tablespoon chopped fresh 1 teaspoon thyme. Serve.
thyme, divided
Loads of flavor, fast. by Matthew Fairman 2 teaspoons pepper FLAS H - MA R INAT E D S K IRT
¼ teaspoon table salt ST EAKS WITH G OCHUJA N G,
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, SESAM E , AND SCAL L IO N
O N E G R E AT T H I N G about steak But using a wet marinade on a divided Increase soy sauce to 5 table-
is that, if you buy quality meat, you thin steak presents a hurdle. Any spoons. Omit vinegar, olive oil,
can easily make a homemade dinner excess moisture on the steak has 1. Slice steak with grain into honey, thyme, pepper, and salt.
that rivals what you can get in a to evaporate before the surface 3- to 4-inch-long steaks. Whisk Add 1½ tablespoons gochujang,
restaurant. Here, fast-cooking skirt can reach the higher temperatures vinegar, soy sauce, olive oil, 1½ tablespoons toasted sesame
steak gets a quick soak in a potent needed for flavorful browning. But garlic, honey, 2 teaspoons thyme, oil, 1 tablespoon vegetable oil,
marinade before being cooked in a the thin steak cooks quickly, leaving pepper, and salt together in and 2 teaspoons grated fresh
skillet. It’s delicious and truly easy. little time for the surface to dry, heat large bowl. Transfer 2 table- ginger to marinade. Sprinkle
Well-marbled skirt steak is up, and achieve flavorful browning spoons marinade to second sliced steaks with 1 thinly sliced
perfect for marinating. Marinades and caramelization. bowl; set aside. Place steaks in scallion and 1 teaspoon toasted
do most of their work on the These recipes work in two simple first bowl with marinade and sesame seeds before serving.
exterior of meats, and here, skirt solutions. First, patting the excess toss to coat. Let sit at room
steak has a distinct advantage. It’s marinade off the steak before searing
a thin cut with large muscle fibers it in a nonstick pan on the stovetop
that are fitted together loosely, keeps the meat from steaming when
creating a ridged surface that it hits the hot pan, while leaving The Skinny on Skirt
equates to a high ratio of exterior plenty of bold marinade behind Skirt steaks are sometimes labeled as “inside” or “outside” skirt steak.
to interior—it’s a thin steak with to result in flavorful steak. Second, We prefer the more tender outside cut, which measures 3 to 4 inches
lots of surface area. Unlike what the marinades for both versions stra- wide and ½ to 1 inch thick. If you can find only the inside cut, which
happens when you marinate thick tegically include sweet ingredients— typically measures 5 to 7 inches wide and ¼ to ½ inch thick, halve the
steaks, if the exterior of skirt is well balsamic and honey in one and steaks lengthwise before cutting them into smaller steaks in step 1.
seasoned, the whole steak tastes gochujang in the other. The sugar
well seasoned. In the case of these in these ingredients aids in quick
recipes, just 10 minutes is plenty of browning, resulting in skillet steaks
time for these potent marinades to with deeply caramelized surfaces OUTSIDE CUT IN SI D E CU T
impart their flavor. reminiscent of those of grilled steaks.

28 CO O K’S COU NT RY • O CTO BE R/ NOV E MBE R 2023

 Shaved
Caulif lower
Salad
Don’t cook your cauliflower; shave it.
by Amanda Luchtel

S H AV E D CA U L I F L OW E R body to the dressing so that it

salads are increasingly ubiquitous clings to the cauliflower.
in the culinary world and for A few finishing touches are all
good reasons: The mild flavor of that’s needed for an elegant salad.
cauliflower is a perfect canvas for Parsley adds brightness and tarra-
bold dressings, and the thin pieces gon a hint of licorice. Celery slices
are delicate enough to enjoy raw. provide crunch, while delicate
Large chunks of raw cauliflower celery leaves boost the flavor. Add-
in a salad can be firm and waxy, ing toasted pistachios just before
leaving the cauliflower undersea- serving gives more crunch and
soned and preventing the salad nutty richness, and shaved Pecori-
from feeling cohesive. Shaving no Romano cheese adds piquant
the cauliflower instead results in pops of flavor. After one bite of this
pieces that soften and make for a salad, you’ll be convinced of raw
more harmonious salad. cauliflower’s ability to transform
You don’t need any special into something divine. 1 head cauliflower (2 pounds) 1. Trim outer leaves of cauliflower
equipment, such as a mandoline or 2 ounces pitted Medjool dates, and cut stem flush with bottom of
a food processor, to shave the cau- coarsely chopped (1⁄3 cup) head. Place cauliflower stem side
liflower. Breaking the cauliflower SHAV E D CAULI FLOWE R ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil up on cutting board. Cut stems
into large florets and slicing the SA L AD WI TH DATE-DIJON ¼ cup white wine vinegar around core to remove large (2- to
florets and core thin with a chef’s D R ESS IN G 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 3-inch) florets. Slice each floret
knife yields similar results (see Serves 6 Total Time: 25 minutes, 2 tablespoons water lengthwise as thin as possible
“How to Shave Cauliflower”). plus 30 minutes resting 1 garlic clove, smashed and peeled (about ⅛ inch thick). Slice core
The goal is to get the thinnest After trimming the leaves and stem 1 teaspoon table salt crosswise as thin as possible. (You
pieces possible and let the dressing from the cauliflower in step 1, you ½ teaspoon pepper should have about 6½ cups thinly
do the rest of the work. should have about 1½ pounds of 2 celery ribs, sliced thin on bias, sliced cauliflower.) Transfer cauli-
A thick, creamy dressing cauliflower. We prefer to use the plus ½ cup celery leaves flower to large bowl.
evenly coats and sticks to the tender inner ribs and yellow leaves ½ cup chopped fresh parsley 2. Process dates, oil, vinegar, mus-
cauliflower pieces better than a of the celery, known as the heart, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tard, water, garlic, salt, and pepper
thin one. Blending Dijon mustard in this recipe. To toast the pista- tarragon in blender until mostly smooth
and Medjool dates (which add chios, cook them in a dry skillet 2 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, with some finely chopped dates
balancing sweet, caramel notes) over medium heat, stirring often, shaved with vegetable peeler remaining, about 1 minute, scrap-
along with olive oil, white wine until they are lightly browned and ½ cup shelled pistachios, ing down sides of blender jar as
vinegar, and seasonings, gives fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. toasted and chopped needed. Transfer dressing to bowl
with cauliflower.
How to Shave Cauliflower 3. Add celery ribs and leaves,
parsley, and tarragon to cauliflower
mixture and toss gently to com-
bine. Refrigerate until cauliflower
is slightly softened, at least 30 min-
utes. (Cauliflower mixture can be
refrigerated for up to 12 hours.)
4. Fold Pecorino and pistachios
into cauliflower mixture. Season
with salt and pepper to taste.
Transfer salad to platter and serve.

1. Trim outer leaves of cauliflower and 2. Place cauliflower stem side up. 3. Thinly slice florets lengthwise and
cut stem flush with bottom of head. Cut stems vertically around core to core crosswise.
remove large florets.

OCTOBE R/ NOV EM BER 2023 • COO K’S COUN TRY 29

 Crisped lengths of
scallion greens add
flavor and texture as
a garnish.

Shanghai
Scallion
Oil Noodles
30 CO OK’S COU NTRY • O CTO BE R/N OV EMBER 2023
 Scallions go use; according to Li, the oil can be SH AN G HAI SCA LLI ON OI L N OODLES
used to dress anything from more Serves 4 to 6 Total Time: 1 hour
from sidekick to noodles to steamed chicken to Look for fresh, raw wheat noodles (without egg), preferably a Chinese
fried eggs. brand, that are about the thickness of cooked spaghetti; thinner noodles
star in these “This dish is very accessible to (the thickness of cooked thin spaghetti or thinner) will not work here.
savory-sweet noodles. make at home,” said Li. “I always Fresh Korean or Japanese wheat noodles of the same thickness can also
know there’s one thing I can be used. Other traditional toppings include crispy fried eggs or blanched
by Kelly Song
fall back on and it’s going to be baby bok choy.
good. It’s my version of easy mac
and cheese.” 3. Meanwhile, heat oil and
S
CALLION OIL NOODLES ¼ cup light soy sauce
are a Shanghainese staple Once the scallion whites are 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce scallion greens in 14-inch wok
that are happily enjoyed in many silky and the oil is aromatic, dark 5 teaspoons sugar or 12-inch nonstick skillet over
environments: They are inhaled soy sauce comes in to do the 15–18 scallions (6 ounces), white medium-high heat and cook,
beside street carts, slurped up heavy lifting. Its thick texture and green parts separated stirring constantly, until most scal-
at fancy restaurants, and tossed gives the dish its signature dark, 1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled lions are browned and crispy, 8 to
together at home. The simple glossy appearance. A touch of 1 pound fresh Chinese wheat 10 minutes. Off heat, use slotted
dish’s mass appeal, which gains light soy sauce, which is thin- noodles spoon to transfer scallion greens
more traction every day in the ner and brighter, adds additional 2⁄3 cup peanut or vegetable oil to small bowl; sprinkle with salt
United States, comes as no savoriness. A rich, glazy sauce is a 1⁄8 teaspoon table salt and set aside.
surprise; springy noodles dressed mark of excellence in Shanghai- 1 shallot, halved and sliced thin 4. Add shallot, scallion whites,
with a combination of aromatic nese cuisine; chefs often strive for and ginger to oil remaining in wok
oil, rich soy sauce, and “nong you chi jiang” 1. Combine light soy sauce, dark and cook over medium-low heat,
sugar form a whole in their dishes, which soy sauce, and sugar in small stirring often, until scallion whites
that is far greater—and A rich, glazy translates to “rich with bowl; set aside. Halve scallion and shallot are golden and wilted,
tastier—than the sum sauce is oil, red with sauce.” whites lengthwise, then slice into 11 to 13 minutes.
of its parts. a mark of Shanghainese dishes 1½-inch segments. Slice green 5. Stir soy sauce mixture to
To better understand also often lean slightly parts into 1½-inch segments; recombine and add to scallion
excellence in
the global craze, I sweet; here, a gener- reserve white and green parts mixture in wok. Cook, stirring
Shanghainese
consulted my colleague ous amount of sugar separately. Slice ginger crosswise often, until sugar is dissolved and
Valerie Sizhe Li, who cuisine . . . mingles with the soy into thin rounds. Stack rounds and sauce is rapidly bubbling, 1 to
devoured countless sauce to create a pleas- slice into thin matchsticks. 2 minutes. Add noodles and toss
bowls of this dish grow- ing salty-sweet balance. 2. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in until evenly coated in sauce and
ing up in Shanghai: “I had this dish Cooked fresh noodles, which large pot. Add noodles and cook, heated through, 2 to 3 minutes.
so often, I didn’t even think about have a nice chewy texture, are then stirring often, until just tender. Transfer noodles to serving
it until I moved away from home added to the wok and tossed to Drain noodles, rinse well, and bowls and top with scallion
and realized I didn’t have it at arm’s coat with the sauce. The noodles drain again; set aside. greens. Serve.
reach anymore,” said Li. “As a can be served on their own or
meat lover, it’s one of my favorite dressed with an array of toppings.
dishes that doesn’t involve meat. At bustling Shanghainese eateries, Ingredient Spotlight
It’s slightly sweet and has a super diners customize their bowls with
umami-rich flavor, and the noodles a spread of self-serve toppings:
have a chewy and tender texture. red-braised pork chops, stir-fried
Everything is just so satisfying.” ground pork, blanched bok choy,
Scallion oil noodles, as the mustard greens, or crispy fried
name implies, rely on an infused eggs. As an ode to the traditional
oil to dress the noodles. Here, version, and one of Li’s personal
scallions (first the greens—which favorite toppings, we dress our
are crisped, removed, and added noodles with crispy scallion greens, C HIN ESE WH E AT N OO DLES LIGHT DA RK SOY
back as a garnish before serv- which are shallow-fried in the wok We developed this recipe using SOY SAUC E SAU CE
ing—and then the whites) are (before the rest of the dish is built) Twin Marquis Thin Shanghai Style Light soy sauce is thin and very
slowly simmered in peanut oil, until dark brown and shatteringly Plain Noodles, but any fresh, salty. Dark soy sauce (lao chou)
with shallots and ginger added for crisp. The result is a symphony eggless noodles of a similar size has a thicker texture, darker color,
extra flavor. If desired, the scallion of textures, coupled with a rich, (about the thickness of cooked and sweeter flavor.
oil can be made in large batches savory sauce that will have you spaghetti when raw) will work here.
and stored in the fridge for later making this dish again and again.

O CTOBER /NOVE MB ER 2023 • CO O K’S COUN TRY 31

 Shoof ly
The distinct gooey
layer sitting atop the crust
makes this a wet-bottom
style shoofly pie.

Pie
We baked 50 pies to get this Pennsylvania
Dutch classic just right. by Mark Huxsoll

I C A N S T I L L R E M E M B E R my fragile dough that bakes into a

first encounter, as a 6-year-old, buttery-tasting crust. Doughs
with a gooey, molasses-heavy for shoofly pie are often lightly
slice of shoofly pie. It made a sweetened; after testing various
mess of my shirt and immedi- amounts of granulated sugar,
ately became one of my favorite I landed on 1½ teaspoons for
things to eat. The pie has a long just a hint of sweetness (and
history; according to William enhanced browning).
Woys Weaver (see “A Pie With The simple filling gets most
Punch”), shoofly pie evolved in of its flavor from molasses,
the 1880s from the 1876 centen- which is thinned with boiling
nial cake created in Philadelphia water (and augmented with a
to commemorate 100 years of beaten egg for structure). A bit
American independence. of baking soda mixed into the
Shoofly pie has a pastry crust water lightens the texture of
and a bittersweet, custardy filling the heavy filling (the soda is
made from flour, brown sugar, activated by the acidic molasses),
butter, lots of molasses, and egg, and some of the crumb-topping
all accented with warm spices. mixture (flour, sugar, butter, and
There are two distinct styles spices) gets whisked in to give
eaten in Pennsylvania Dutch the filling enough body to set up
Country. The dry-bottom style its delicious layers as it bakes.
has a moist cake-like texture This pie is enjoyed in
throughout. The wet-bottom homes, truck stops, and diners
style has a spectrum of tex- all across Dutch Country as a
tures beginning with its gooey dessert but more commonly
namesake “wet bottom” above for breakfast, best served warm
the crust, a cakey layer in the with a steaming cup of strong
middle, and a crown of buttery coffee. Do yourself a favor and
crumbs. While both versions treat yourself to this classic
are unequivocally delicious, the pie—morning, noon, or night.
wet-bottom style is the one that
is more popular today and is
rooted in my memory and thus
guided my recipe development. Avoid the Slump
I started my version with Gently press on protruding crimped
the foundation, the crust. With points of dough so they hook over
such a moist, heavy filling, it’s edge of pie plate.
important that the crust be
crisp and sturdy. Also important
is a dough that is easy to work
with and doesn’t tear easily—no
rips or patches. We love the
flavor of pie crust made with
butter; for increased malle-
ability and ease of rolling, I
replaced just 2 tablespoons of
the butter with sour cream,
which makes for a sturdier, less

32 COOK’S COU N TRY • O CTOB ER /N OVEMB ER 2023

 SHO OF LY PI E
Serves 8 Total Time: 1¾ hours, plus 2 hours chilling and cooling
Do not use blackstrap molasses; its intense flavor will overwhelm the other flavors. Our favorite molasses is
Brer Rabbit All Natural Unsulphured Molasses Mild Flavor. For an accurate measurement of boiling water,
bring a kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount. We developed this recipe using our
winning metal pie plate, Williams-Sonoma Goldtouch Nonstick Pie Dish. You can use a glass pie plate, but
browning on the crust may be inconsistent. To make this pie in a disposable aluminum pan, place a baking
sheet in the oven while it is preheating and then bake the pie on the preheated sheet.

C RUST 1. FOR THE CRUST: Combine fingers. Gently press on protruding

3 tablespoons ice water ice water and sour cream in bowl. crimped edge so it overhangs edge
2 tablespoons sour cream Process flour, sugar, and salt in of plate by about ¼ inch. Wrap
1¼ cups (6¼ ounces) all-purpose food processor until combined, dough-lined plate loosely in plastic
flour about 5 seconds. Scatter butter wrap and refrigerate until dough is
1½ teaspoons sugar over top and pulse until butter well chilled, about 1 hour.
½ teaspoon table salt pieces are no larger than peas, 5. FO R THE FI LLIN G: Adjust
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut about 10 pulses. Add ice water oven rack to lowest position and
into ½-inch pieces and chilled mixture and pulse until dough heat oven to 425 degrees. Pulse
forms clumps and no dry flour flour, sugar, salt, cinnamon,
F ILL ING remains, about 12 pulses, scraping cloves, ginger, and nutmeg in food
¾ cup (3¾ ounces) all-purpose down sides of bowl as needed. processor until combined, about
flour 2. Transfer dough to counter and 3 pulses. Add butter and pulse
½ cup packed (3½ ounces) brown knead briefly until dough comes until mixture has texture of fine
sugar together. Form dough into 5-inch crumbs, about 20 pulses. Reserve
1 teaspoon table salt disk, pressing any cracked edges ¼ cup for topping.
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon back together. Wrap in plastic 6. Whisk molasses and egg
1⁄8 teaspoon ground cloves wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour. together in large bowl. Stir baking
1⁄8 teaspoon ground ginger (Wrapped dough can be refriger- soda into boiling water in liquid
1⁄8 teaspoon ground nutmeg ated for up to 2 days or frozen measuring cup until dissolved.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut for up to 1 month. If frozen, Whisking constantly, slowly
into ½-inch pieces and chilled let dough thaw completely on pour boiling water mixture into
1 cup molasses counter before rolling.) molasses mixture and whisk until
1 large egg, beaten 3. Let chilled dough sit on smooth. Whisk in remaining flour
1 teaspoon baking soda counter to soften slightly before mixture until smooth. Pour filling
¾ cup boiling water rolling, about 10 minutes. Roll into chilled pie shell.
dough into 12-inch circle 7. Sprinkle reserved flour mixture
on lightly floured coun- over molasses mixture. Bake
A Pie with Punch ter. Loosely roll dough pie until crust is light golden,
According to William Woys Weaver, around rolling pin and about 10 minutes. Reduce oven
a Pennsylvania Dutch culinary gently unroll onto 9-inch temperature to 350 degrees and
historian, shoofly pie is named pie plate, letting excess continue to bake until center of
after the famous boxing mule, dough hang over edge. pie is just set and filling in center
Shoofly, who Ease dough into plate of pie registers between 200 and
The toured Dutch by gently lifting edge of 210 degrees, 30 to 35 minutes
American Country as a dough with your hand longer. Transfer pie to wire rack
Table traveling circus while pressing into plate and let cool until just warm, about
act in the late bottom and corners with 1 hour. Slice and serve.
19th century. The mule (named your other hand.
after a popular Civil War–era song, 4. Trim overhanging
“Shoo Fly, Don’t Bother Me”) was dough to ½ inch beyond
so celebrated in the region that a lip of plate. Tuck over- TO MAKE A HEA D
popular brand of molasses in Philadelphia renamed itself after the punchy animal. hang under itself; folded Pie can be stored, wrapped in
Since molasses is the primary flavor ingredient in the pie, it follows that the pie edge should be flush with plastic wrap, at room tempera-
was named “shoofly.” edge of plate. Crimp ture for up to 7 days. To serve,
dough evenly around place pie in 350-degree oven until
Photo: William Woys Weaver edge of plate using your warmed through, 5 to 10 minutes.

OCTOBE R /NOVEM BE R 2023 • COOK’S COU NTRY 33

 Applesauce Spice Cake
with Brown Sugar Icing
With its rich, caramel-like topping, this buttery-sweet,
lightly spiced cake is sure to please. by Jessica Rudolph

BAKING WITH APPLESAUCE doesn’t wallop you with apple fla- Cream cheese frosting and
is nothing new: A humble, afford- vor, so the cake takes well to other confectioners’ sugar glaze are
able pantry staple, applesauce has flavor enhancers: Brown sugar adds both tasty options, but this brown
been adding sweetness, moisture, a caramelly depth, a heavy pour sugar icing is next-level delicious.
BAKING WITH APPLESAUCE,
and structure to baked goods for of vanilla contributes floral notes, It’s essentially made by whisking
A PATRIOTIC DUTY
decades (see “Baking with Apple- and a host of spices brings a classic confectioners’ sugar into a butter-
President Woodrow Wilson
sauce, a Patriotic Duty”). For autumnal warmth. scotch sauce (brown sugar, butter,
established the U.S. Food Admin-
those who grew up with apple- The quick batter uses a simple heavy cream, and salt cooked until
istration in 1917, shortly after
sauce cakes, this one is a buttery stir-together method. The result- syrupy), resulting in a thick, fudgy
the United States entered World
reminder of those nostalgic treats. ing cake is moist and plush, with confection reminiscent of pralines
War I. Headed by Herbert Hoover,
And for those who didn’t, well, a delicate sweetness, and would or penuche. It’s thicker than a glaze
the administration monitored
let me introduce you to your new be excellent in a brunch spread, as but gooier than a frosting, sets with
distribution and encouraged
favorite every-occasion cake. an afternoon snack, or as a light a delightfully crackly crust, and is
conservation of food in order
This recipe contains a whopping dessert, maybe with a dusting of the ideal salty-sweet counterpoint
to support the war efforts. The
2 cups of applesauce, making for an powdered sugar or a dollop of to the fluffy cake underneath.
administration published adver-
ultramoist 13 by 9-inch cake that whipped cream. But if you want to A final smattering of toasted pecans
tisements stating “Food Will Win
stays soft for days. The applesauce root this cake firmly in dessert ter- adds welcome crunch, the perfect
the War” and implored civilians
imparts a subtle fruitiness, but it ritory, a richer topping is needed. finishing touch.
to plant victory gardens at home;
clean their plates at mealtimes;
and conserve precious ingredi-
APP L ESAU CE S P IC E CAKE W IT H BROW N SUGAR I CI N G medium bowl. Whisk applesauce,
ents such
Serves 12 to 16 Total Time: 1¼ hours, plus 2 hours cooling melted butter, sugar, eggs, and The as sugar,
The brown sugar icing will harden shortly after the confectioners’ sugar is vanilla together in large bowl. Add
stirred in, so work quickly to spread it on the cake and sprinkle on the flour mixture to applesauce mixture American fat, meat,

nuts before it sets. Toast the pecans on a rimmed baking sheet in a and whisk until just combined. Table and
wheat,
350-degree oven until fragrant, about 5 minutes. This recipe can be made 3. Transfer batter to prepared
which were urgently needed for
with store-bought or homemade applesauce; see our recipe for Brown pan and smooth top with rub-
soldiers. Consequently, many
Sugar Applesauce on page 41. ber spatula. Bake until toothpick
cookbooks were published
inserted in center of cake comes
shortly thereafter with clever,
CA KE TO PPI NG out clean, 30 to 35 minutes, rotat-
economical ideas for recipes
2½ cups (12½ ounces) 1 cup packed (7 ounces) light ing pan halfway through baking.
made without scarce ingredients.
all-purpose flour brown sugar Transfer pan to wire rack and let
In one such cookbook, Everyday
2 teaspoons baking powder 6 tablespoons unsalted butter cool completely, about 2 hours.
Foods in War Time (1918), author
1 teaspoon baking soda ¼ cup heavy cream 4. FOR THE TO PPING: Com-
Mary Swartz Rose states “[t]he
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon table salt bine brown sugar, butter, cream,
patriotic housewife finds her little
1 teaspoon table salt ¾ cup (3 ounces) confectioners’ and salt in medium saucepan. Cook
domestic boat sailing in unchart-
1 teaspoon ground ginger sugar, sifted over medium-high heat, whisking
ed waters” and provides guidance
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg ½ teaspoon vanilla extract often, until mixture is thickened
and recipes for wartime cooking,
1⁄8 teaspoon ground cloves 1 cup pecans, toasted and and large bubbles burst on surface,
including one for applesauce
2 cups applesauce chopped 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat
cake that uses no eggs and only a
16 tablespoons unsalted butter, and let cool for 10 minutes. Whisk
small amount of butter and sugar.
melted and cooled slightly 1 . FOR TH E CA KE: Adjust oven in confectioners’ sugar and vanilla
1 cup packed (7 ounces) light rack to middle position and heat until smooth, about 1 minute.
brown sugar oven to 350 degrees. Spray 13 by Working quickly, spread icing
2 large eggs 9-inch baking pan with vegetable evenly over cooled cake. Sprinkle
1 tablespoon vanilla extract oil spray. pecans over icing. Serve. (Iced cake
2 . Whisk flour, baking powder, can be covered with plastic wrap
baking soda, cinnamon, salt, gin- and stored at room temperature for
ger, nutmeg, and cloves together in up to 3 days.)

34 COOK’S COU N TRY • OCTOB ER/ NOVE MB ER 2023

 Brown sugar icing and
chopped pecans add
elegance to this
simple cake.

OCTOBE R /NOVE MBE R 2023 • COOK’S COU NTRY 35

 I N STA N T POT

break it into bite-size pieces and

stir in some fresh parsley. Toss it
with pasta, and, of course, have
some grated Parmesan on hand
for serving. Now you can have
rich, savory beef ragu any night
you want.

INSTAN T P OT B EEF RAGU

Serves 8 to 12
Total Time: 1½ hours
For a spicier dish, use the larger
amount of red pepper flakes. This
recipe yields about 8 cups of sauce
(enough to sauce 2 pounds of
pasta). Serve with grated Parmesan.

3 pounds boneless beef chuck-eye

roast, trimmed, cut into
2- to 3-inch pieces
1 tablespoon kosher salt, divided
½ teaspoon pepper
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 onion, chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
This dish only
3 tablespoons tomato paste
looks like it took
all day to make. 6 garlic cloves, minced
4 anchovy fillets, minced
1 tablespoon dried oregano
½-1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Instant Pot Beef Ragu

½ cup red wine
1 (28-ounce) can crushed
tomatoes
1 ounce Parmesan cheese rind
All the long-cooked flavor in less time. by Lawman Johnson (optional)
½ cup chopped fresh parsley

M E AT Y, S A V O R Y beef ragu chunks to reduce the cooking time. dissolving them so that they 1. Pat beef dry with paper towels
served over pasta is a crowd- Then, brown just half the beef to incorporate into the sauce. Tie it and sprinkle with 1½ teaspoons salt
pleasing dinner, but making it can create fond (flavorful browned bits) all together with canned crushed and pepper. Using highest sauté
take half a day. This is fine for a in the pot, while saving time from tomatoes, which have just the right function, heat 2 tablespoons oil in
leisurely weekend in the kitchen, having to brown all the meat. Set consistency to make a thick sauce. Instant Pot until just smoking. Add
but what if you want beef ragu on a the browned beef aside while you Nestle both the browned and half of beef and brown on all sides,
weeknight? An Instant Pot (electric begin to build the sauce in the pot. unbrowned beef chunks into the 6 to 8 minutes; transfer browned
pressure cooker/multicooker) can Sauté chopped onion and car- sauce and add one last ingredient: and unbrowned beef to bowl.
take the long cooking time down to rot in the rendered beef fat plus a Parmesan rind for savory flavor. 2. Add remaining 2 tablespoons
just 45 minutes without sacrificing some olive oil. To build flavor, add As everything cooks under pres- oil to fat left in pot. Add onion,
the long-simmered flavor. tomato paste, generous amounts sure for just 45 minutes, the meat carrot, and remaining 1½ tea-
Start with beef chuck-eye roast, of garlic and anchovies, and dried will become tender and the flavors spoons salt and cook, stirring
a cut we use for pot roast and beef oregano. Once the vegetables are will deepen. While the ragu cooks, occasionally, until vegetables are
stew because it becomes tender softened and browned and the you’ll have time to boil some pasta softened and lightly browned, 4 to
when cooked for a long time (or mixture is fragrant, stir in a little to serve with it. 6 minutes. Stir in tomato paste,
a short time under pressure). Cut red wine to deglaze the pot, To finish the ragu, simply mash garlic, anchovies, oregano, and
the large roast into 2- to 3-inch releasing the bits of fond and the meat with a potato masher to pepper flakes and cook, stirring

36 CO OK’S COU N TRY • O CTOBE R /N OV E MBER 2023

 COOKING FOR T W O

PASTA E FAGIOLI FOR TWO

Total Time: 1 hour
You can use any small pasta
shape, such as tubettini, elbow
often, until mixture is fragrant and macaroni, or small shells, in
deeply browned, 1 to 2 minutes. place of the ditalini. To make
3. Stir in wine, scraping up any this soup vegetarian, omit
browned bits, and cook until the pancetta and substitute
nearly evaporated, about 1 minute. vegetable broth for the chicken
Stir in tomatoes and Parmesan broth. Note that we use the
rind, if using. Nestle beef into pot, liquid from the beans, so don’t
along with any accumulated juices. drain it up front.
4. Lock lid into place and close
pressure-release valve. Select high 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive
pressure-cook function and cook oil, plus extra for drizzling
for 45 minutes. Turn off Instant 1 onion, chopped fine
Pot and quick-release pressure. 1 carrot, peeled and
Carefully remove lid, allowing chopped fine
steam to escape away from you. 1 ounce pancetta, chopped
5. Discard Parmesan rind, if using. fine
Using potato masher, mash beef ½ teaspoon table salt
in pot until broken into bite-size ¼ teaspoon pepper
pieces. Season with salt and pep- 1 tablespoon tomato paste
per to taste. Stir in parsley. Serve. The word “ditalini” 2 garlic cloves, minced
(Ragu can be refrigerated for up to means “small thim- 1⁄8 teaspoon red pepper flakes
3 days.) bles” in Italian. 2 cups chicken broth
1 (15-ounce) can cannellini

Pasta e Fagioli
beans, undrained
Lots of Flavor, Half the Work ½ cup ditalini
You need to brown only half the ¼ cup grated Parmesan
meat, as a little fond (the browned cheese, plus extra for serving
bits left behind) goes a long way. Italian American comfort food perfectly ¼ cup finely chopped
fresh basil
UN B ROW NE D B ROW N E D
ME AT
portioned for two. by Lawman Johnson
ME AT
1. Heat oil in medium sauce-
pan over medium heat until
A B O W L O F PA S TA e fagioli, a depth and red pepper flakes for shimmering. Add onion, carrot,
hearty Italian American pasta and added heat. pancetta, salt, and pepper and
bean soup, takes comfort food to Then, to give this soup its cook until vegetables are soft-
a higher level. It’s rich, warm, and signature hearty feel, add one ened, 6 to 8 minutes.
hearty—the kind of dinner you can of creamy white beans with 2. Add tomato paste, garlic,
curl up with on the couch. It’s also their liquid, and stir in 2 cups of and pepper flakes and cook
delicious and easy to make. And chicken broth to transform these until fragrant, about 2 minutes.
while you could make a huge pot of simple ingredients into a bona Stir in broth and beans and
it, if you just want enough for two, fide soup. A short simmer affords their liquid, scraping up any
it’s easy to pare it down. But don’t the flavors a chance to meld. For browned bits, and bring to boil.
worry: Cooking for fewer people convenience, cook the pasta to al Reduce heat to medium-low
doesn’t mean sacrificing taste. dente right in the same pot to help and simmer, stirring occasion-
Begin by building a soup base infuse it with flavor—and to avoid ally, until liquid has thickened
teeming with flavor. Combine dirtying extra dishes. slightly, about 10 minutes.
finely chopped onion and carrot Finally, stir in a generous 3. Increase heat to medium and
in a saucepan along with a little amount of grated Parmesan bring to boil. Add pasta and
pancetta, and cook everything cheese for extra richness and nutty cook, stirring occasionally, until
until the vegetables soften and depth and some chopped basil for pasta is al dente, 10 to 12 min-
the pork fat is well rendered. To a fresh pop of flavor and aroma. utes. Off heat, stir in Parmesan
PLE NT Y O F FO N D further ensure a flavorful founda- Can food ever be too comforting? and basil. Serve, drizzling with
tion, add tomato paste for a savory That’s a good question to get the extra oil and passing extra
richness, along with garlic for dinner conversation started. Parmesan separately.

OCTOBER/N OVE MB E R 2023 • COO K’S COU NTRY 37

 CO O K I N G C L ASS

Browned
Butter
Chocolate
Chunk
0Xį QV
No one will believe you made these rich,
buttery, chocolate-studded muffins
at home. by Amanda Luchtel

T H E S E U LT R A R I C H folding in the dry ingredients.

chocolate chunk muffins, with This means you can simply stir
their tall shape, “fancy” parch- these muffins together—no stand
ment liners, and glistening sug- mixer needed. Gently folding
ared tops, will look like they came in the dry ingredients prevents
from your favorite bakery. Their overmixing and limits gluten
The browned
richness and intense buttery formation, keeping the muf-
butter makes
these muffins flavor come from adding nutty fins tender. Instead of chocolate
a decadent browned butter to the batter. chips, irregularly sized chocolate
morning treat. Like most muffins, they are made chunks disperse throughout the
using a mixing method called muffins, making for soft, melted
the “muffin method”: combin- bits of chocolate in each bite.
ing the wet ingredients and then

BROW NE D BU TT ER 2 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose liners in muffin cups, allowing be thick and lumpy with spots of
CH OCOL AT E C H U NK MUF FI NS flour excess parchment to protrude dry flour.)
Makes 12 muffins 1 tablespoon baking powder vertically from cups. 4. Using greased ⅓-cup dry mea-
Total Time: 1¼ hours, 1 teaspoon table salt 2. Whisk flour, baking powder, suring cup, portion heaping ⅓ cup
plus 30 minutes cooling 8 ounces semisweet chocolate, and salt together in medium bowl. batter into each parchment-lined
Using homemade parchment chopped coarse Stir in chocolate and set aside. muffin cup; evenly distribute any
paper liners gives the muffins 16 tablespoons unsalted butter Melt butter in 10-inch skillet over remaining batter among cups (cups
their tall, neat shape and ensures 1¼ cups (8¾ ounces) sugar, plus medium-high heat. Cook, stirring will be full). Sprinkle remaining
that the muffins will release ¼ cup sugar for sprinkling constantly with rubber spatula, ¼ cup sugar evenly over batter
easily. If you don’t want to make 2 large eggs until butter is dark golden brown (about 1 teaspoon per muffin).
your own, you can use tulip lin- 2 cups sour cream and has nutty aroma, 2 to 4 min- 5. Bake until muffins are golden
ers. Standard muffin liners will 4 teaspoons vanilla extract utes. Transfer browned butter to brown and toothpick inserted in
also work but won’t result in the second bowl and let cool slightly, center comes out with few crumbs
same tall shape. If you don’t have 1. Adjust oven rack to about 10 minutes. attached, 20 to 25 minutes, rotat-
a small drinking glass, a 6-ounce upper-middle position and heat 3. Whisk 1¼ cups sugar and ing muffin tin halfway through
can of tomato paste works well oven to 400 degrees. Cut twelve eggs in large bowl until thick and baking. Let muffins cool in muffin
to form the parchment liners in 6-inch squares of parchment paper. creamy, about 1 minute. Whisk in tin on wire rack for 5 minutes.
step 1. Press each square around bottom sour cream, vanilla, and browned Transfer muffins to rack and let
of tapered drinking glass with 1¾- butter. Fold in flour mixture with cool for at least 30 minutes. Serve
to 2-inch base, creasing paper to rubber spatula until just moist- warm or at room temperature.
form cup shape. Place parchment ened; do not overmix. (Batter will

38 CO OK’S COU NTRY • O CTOB ER /NOVE MB ER 2023

 COOKI N G C L ASS

Homemade versus Standard Liners Why Brown the Butter? MELT E D

We found that making our own parchment paper liners was worth it to When butter makes muffins dense, it’s because of
encourage the muffins to rise high and prevent them from sticking to the tin. the water that butter is contributing to the recipe,
which gets absorbed by the starch and weighs LI GHT
B ROWN
it down. Browning the butter removes its water,
effectively turning the butter into oil. Instead of
making the muffin heavy, browned butter keeps it
short, rich, and crumbly. DARK
Unlike oil, browned butter is solid at room tem- B ROWN

perature, which keeps the muffins from tasting

greasy. Since butter melts at body temperature,
when you take a bite, the butter softens, giving the BURN T
muffins a lush, moist mouthfeel. –Paul Adams
STA N DAR D LI NE RS PA RC H M E NT PAP ER L I NERS
Muffin “mushrooms” out over the liner. Muffin rises high and releases easily.

HOW TO MA KE BROW NE D BU TTER CHO CO LATE CH UNK MUFFINS

1. Line muffin tin Cut parchment 2. Brown butter Melt 2 sticks butter 3. Chop chocolate Coarsely chop 4. Make batter Whisk dry ingredi-
paper squares and press each around in 10-inch skillet, then cook, stirring, 8 ounces semisweet chocolate. ents, including chocolate, and wet
tapered drinking glass, creasing to until milk solids are toasted. Pieces will vary in size. ingredients separately, then fold dry
form cup. Set papers in muffin cups. Why? Browning butter causes water Why? Using bar chocolate (which mixture into wet; do not overmix.
Why? Parchment liners allow for easy to evaporate, making the butter more doesn’t have stabilizers) instead of Why? Adding the chocolate with the
removal and a nicely risen top that similar to oil, which results in rich, chips means no waxy texture at room dry ingredients helps avoid overmix-
doesn’t stick to the tin. Creasing the crumbly (not dense) muffins. It also temperature, plus different-size pock- ing, which can lead to more gluten
parchment makes it the right size. adds depth and nuttiness. ets of chocolate in the muffins. formation and a tougher muffin.

5. Portion muffins Distribute batter 6. Sprinkle with sugar Using tea- 7. Bake muffins Bake on 8. Cool muffins Let muffins cool
evenly among muffin cups, about spoon measure, sprinkle muffin tops upper-middle rack at 400 degrees in tin on wire rack for 5 minutes.
heaping 1⁄3 cup each. with sugar. until muffins are golden brown. Remove from tin and transfer to rack
Why? Using a measuring cup helps Why? Sprinkling the muffin tops Why? Baking at a higher tempera- to cool for at least 30 minutes.
make consistent-size muffins. Filling with sugar creates crunchy, crackly ture helps create that iconic muffin Why? The muffins’ texture is best
the muffin cups generously creates bakery-style tops. Using a teaspoon top dome, and the higher rack posi- once they’ve cooled a bit because
tall and nicely rounded muffins. measure contains the sugar so that tion allows for more color on the the fats solidify, leaving the muffins
less ends up burnt onto the muffin tin. tops of the muffins. lush and moist rather than greasy.

OCTO BER/N OVE MBER 2023 • COO K’S COUN T RY 39

 O N E PA N

for drizzling over the cod.) Next, mixture, and simmer everything
sprinkle the cod with salt and chili covered until the rice is about
powder, transfer it to a hot skillet halfway done, just 10 minutes.
coated with a slick of oil, and Set the cod on top, re-cover
brown it on just one side. the skillet, and cook everything
Set the cod aside and sauté together until the rice and fish are
chopped poblano chiles in the done, another 10 minutes. During
same skillet. Stir in raw white rice, this last bit of cooking, the rice
scallion whites, and some minced eagerly drinks up the sweet, briny
garlic, and stir to coat the grains cod juices, bringing all the flavors
with the vegetable-infused oil; together. To finish it off, drizzle
toasting the rice in this manner the cod with a mayonnaise-based
adds flavor and helps the rice cook sauce, enhanced by the cilantro
up fluffy. Pour in chicken broth, mixture, and sprinkle scallion
along with the blended cilantro greens over the top.

ON E-PA N COD A ND sauce. Reserve remaining cilantro

GRE EN RI CE mixture separately.
Serves 4 Total Time: 1 hour 2. Combine chili powder and
For a spicier dish, reserve and add 1 teaspoon salt in small bowl. Pat
the jalapeño seeds to the rice. This cod dry with paper towels and
recipe requires a 12-inch nonstick sprinkle all over with salt mixture.
We cook the rice
in water enhanced
skillet with a tight-fitting lid. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch
with pureed cilantro, nonstick skillet over medium-high
spinach, and chile. 1 cup fresh cilantro leaves and heat until just smoking. Place
stems cod in skillet and cook until well

Cod and
1 ounce (1 cup) baby spinach browned on first side, about
1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, 2 minutes. Using 2 spatulas, care-

Green Rice
seeded, and chopped fully transfer cod to plate, browned
1 cup water side up. Wipe out skillet with
½ cup mayonnaise paper towels.
2 teaspoons lime juice, 3. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil
plus lime wedges for serving in now-empty skillet over medium-
This easy, one-skillet supper will make you 2 teaspoons table salt, divided high heat until shimmering. Add
see cod in a whole new light. by Lawman Johnson 1 teaspoon chili powder poblanos and ⅛ teaspoon salt and
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, cook, stirring occasionally, until
divided lightly browned, about 2 minutes.
4 (6- to 8-ounce) skinless cod Stir in rice, scallion whites, and
W H A T ’ S N O T T O love about pinnacles of Mexican rice cooking fillets, 1 to 1½ inches thick garlic and cook, stirring often, until
a one-skillet meal? Not only are is arroz poblano/arroz verde, or 2 poblano chiles, stemmed, edges of rice are translucent, about
these recipes often streamlined for green rice. It’s typically made by seeded, and chopped 2 minutes. Stir in broth, remaining
ease of cooking and cleaning, but cooking the rice in some combina- 1½ cups long-grain white rice, rinsed cilantro mixture, and remaining
because everything cooks togeth- tion of chopped or pureed green 2 scallions, white and green parts ¾ teaspoon salt and bring to boil.
er, the flavors get a chance to hang peppers (commonly poblanos and separated and sliced thin Cover, reduce heat to medium-low,
out, meld, and deepen. Such is jalapeños), cilantro, onion, garlic, 2 garlic cloves, minced and simmer for 10 minutes.
the case with this knockout recipe and broth. This recipe takes inspi- 1½ cups chicken broth 4. Carefully place cod browned
for tender, mild cod cooked with ration from green rice and adds side up on top of rice mixture.
deeply seasoned rice. cod to the mix for a satisfying, 1. Process cilantro, spinach, Cover skillet and cook until
Rice, of course, is native to light, bright meal. jalapeño, and water in blender remaining liquid is absorbed and
Asia, but there has been no The first step is to blend cilan- until smooth, about 2 minutes, cod flakes apart when gently prod-
turning back since Europeans tro, baby spinach, jalapeño, and scraping down sides of blender jar ded with paring knife and registers
introduced it to the Americas in water until smooth; this is the base as needed. Transfer 1 tablespoon 135 degrees, 8 to 10 minutes. Off
the early 1500s; it has become a that will give the rice deep vegetal cilantro mixture to small bowl and heat, drizzle cod with sauce and
staple throughout South, Central, flavor and its green hue. (A little whisk in mayonnaise, lime juice, sprinkle with scallion greens. Serve
and North America. One of the of the mixture also flavors a sauce and ⅛ teaspoon salt; set aside with lime wedges.

40 CO O K’S COU NT RY • O CTO BE R/ N OV EMBE R 2023

 HOW TO MA K E

Homemade
applesauce means
big apple flavor—and BROWN SU GAR APP LESAU CE
no preservatives.
Serves 8 (Makes 4 cups)
Total Time: 45 minutes
You can use any variety of sweet
apple except for Red or Golden
Delicious. Since apples can vary
in sweetness, you can adjust the
applesauce with extra sugar to
taste in step 2.

3 pounds sweet apples, peeled,

cored, and quartered
1 cup water
1⁄3 cup packed (21⁄3 ounces) brown
sugar, plus extra for seasoning
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch table salt

1. Combine all ingredients in large

saucepan and bring to boil over
medium-high heat. Reduce heat to
medium-low; cover; and cook, stir-
ring occasionally, until apples are
very soft, 30 to 35 minutes.
2. Transfer apple mixture to
food processor and process until
smooth, about 1 minute. Adjust
sweetness with extra sugar to taste.
Serve warm, at room temperature,
or chilled. (Applesauce can be
refrigerated for up to 1 week.)

Brown Sugar
Four Easy Steps to Fantastic Applesauce

Applesauce
Brown sugar gives our simple applesauce an
appealing toffee-like flavor. by Jessica Rudolph

1. Bring all ingredients to boil in large 2. Reduce heat, cover, and cook until
HOMEMADE APPLESAUCE without being too prominent), a saucepan over medium-high heat. apples are very soft.
might seem like a project, but it’s pinch of salt, and water. Then,
easier than you’d think and is a simply simmer it together until
great way to capture the crisp and the apples are soft and squishy,
fruity qualities of fresh apples. which takes about 30 minutes.
To make it, start by peeling and A quick blitz in the food proces-
coring whatever apples you have sor transforms the apples and
on hand. Cut them into quarters cooking liquid into silky-smooth
and tumble them into a large applesauce, perfect for break-
saucepan with sugar (we like to fasts, snacks, or your next baking
use brown sugar for its rich cara- project (may I humbly suggest
mel flavor, but white sugar also the Applesauce Spice Cake with
works), cinnamon (just enough Brown Sugar Icing on page 34). 3. Process apple mixture until 4. Adjust sweetness with extra sugar
to complement the apple flavor smooth, about 1 minute. to taste.

OCTOBE R/ NOVE MBE R 2023 • CO OK’S COU NT RY 41

 The Best
Cooking Sprays
COOKING SPRAY COMES
in handy in the kitchen when
we want to be sure that sticky or
delicate foods release cleanly. It
comes in two main categories:
This handy product can be the difference between a traditional (with propellants) or
successful dish and a sticky disaster. by Carolyn Grillo bag-on-valve (also referred to as
propellantless). To find the best,
we purchased nine products made
from canola oil, coconut oil, avo-
cado oil, olive oil, and more. We
didn’t see performance or flavor
differences between the types of
oil used in these sprays, but we did
find benefits and drawbacks to the
two styles of spray, including how
easy they were to use. Which spray
is right for you?

See the full testing results at

AmericasTestKitchen.com/nov23.

TRADITIONAL COOKING SPRAYS VS. BAG-ON-VALVE COOKING SPRAYS

FAQs
WHAT ’S I N T HE CAN ? Traditional cooking WHAT’S I N TH E CAN? These sprays are
sprays typically consist of one or more oils made from 100 percent oil and contain no What’s the difference
combined with an emulsifier, such as lecithin, emulsifiers. In a “bag-on-valve” setup, the oil between cooking spray and
and a propellant such as propane or butane. is placed inside a bag within the can, separate baking spray?
from a pressurized propellant gas (com- Baking spray typically contains
SPRAY PAT T E RN : Traditional cooking pressed air or nitrogen). a starch such as flour or
sprays all dispersed spray in a circular pat- cornstarch, while cooking spray
tern that shot straight ahead. This pattern SP RAY PATTER N: The bag-on-valve cans does not. These starch particles
efficiently covered the surface of our pans, sprayed in a vertical oval shape and shot out help baked goods release easily
and we knew exactly where the spray was OUR at an odd upward angle, which made it a bit OUR because they create space
TO P TOP
going to land—a big help in evenly and harder to evenly and efficiently cover a pan. between the baked goods and
P I CK PI CK
quickly coating our pans. the pan. Unless you are doing
NO NST IC K AB ILITY: We observed a something really intricate or
slight difference in the performance of these sprays extra-sticky, cooking spray is
compared to sprays that contain lecithin. The food fine when baking.
T RADI T IO NA L BAG- ON -VA LV E released well, but we noticed a little more sticking and
Dispersed evenly in a Sputtered out in
once in a while we had to nudge the food free. Are these sprays flammable?
round spray pattern different directions
Formulations containing
SM O KE P OI N T : Because they don’t contain lecithin, propane or butane will ignite if
bag-on-valve cooking sprays have a higher smoke they’re sprayed near an open
point. You can cook at a higher heat without worrying flame since they contain
NO N ST I CK A B IL I TY: Emulsifiers such as lecithin about discoloration negatively affecting your food. highly flammable ingredients.
improve a spray’s performance by helping the oil Formulations without these
adhere to the surface of cookware or bakeware. Prod- ingredients should still not be
ucts that contained it created absolutely seamless sprayed near a flame since
nonstick surfaces. aerosolized oil is flammable
as well. To use these products
SMO K E P O IN T: Lecithin has a low smoke point, so safely, spray your skillet before
sprays containing it darkened and negatively affected you turn on the burner. Also,
the appearance and flavor of food when exposed to store your cooking spray at
high temperatures. If you plan to use your cooking room temperature in a cabinet
NO LECI T H IN CO NTA INS LEC I TH I N
spray primarily for high-heat cooking, we recommend safely away from heat sources.
(higher smoke point) (lower smoke point)
skipping sprays that use lecithin.

42 COO K’S COU NT RY • O CTO BER/N OVE M BER 2023

 ATK R EVIEWS

13 by 9-Inch Baking Pans

Whether you’re baking cakes or cinnamon buns, it really matters which pan you use.
by Carolyn Grillo

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

S LIC K NO NST ICK COATIN G : have a place to rest our hands.

A nonstick coating is essential for A few of the pans we tested had
any recipe that calls for invert- dedicated handles that were easy
ing the pan to release the food to securely grip.
once baked. Pans with nonstick
coatings easily released even the CRI SP COR NE RS: Pans with
stickiest food baked in them. They sharp 90-degree (rather than
were also simpler to clean. curved) corners produced cakes
and bars with well-defined,
ST RAIG HT WAL LS: Pans with professional-looking edges.
OUR TOP PICK straight walls turned out straight,
tall, evenly baked cakes.
Williams Sonoma
Goldtouch Pro Nonstick
Rectangular Cake Pan NI CE TO HAVE
Model: 393448 H AN DLES: When moving pans
Price: $49.95 in and out of the oven, we like to

WHAT TO AVOID
WE USE OUR 13 by 9-inch metal in pans of different materials and
baking pans to make some of our designs and compared the results. UN COAT ED PANS : We found two pans were made from two
favorite treats, including cakes The Williams Sonoma that sticky buns baked in pans pieces of bakeware. One was a
and sticky buns. At first glance, it Goldtouch Pro Nonstick Rect- without nonstick coatings either pan with a removable bottom; the
might seem as though any one of angular Cake Pan remains our had to be chiseled out one by one other extended the walls of a 13 by
the generic-looking metal boxes winner. It produces evenly baked, or, if they did release from the pan, 9-inch rimmed baking sheet. We
on store shelves would do just fine. golden-brown cakes with tall sides left behind nearly all their glaze. experienced leakage problems
But you’d be surprised: Choose and crisp corners. Plus, its non- while baking with both pans.
the wrong one and your cake won’t stick coating is slick, so it releases DE E PLY S LOPE D WALLS:
bake evenly, and the sticky part food easily and is a cinch to clean. Walls with deeply sloped sides OT HE R CONS I DE RATI ON S
of your sticky buns will stick to had added surface area that PAN COLOR : In general,
the pan, not the buns. We baked See the full testing results at allowed the batter to spread out gold- and light-colored pans
Yellow Sheet Cake and Sticky Buns AmericasTestKitchen.com/nov23. more and ultimately resulted in produce lighter-colored baked
thinner cakes. goods while dark-colored pans
produce baked goods that are
MU LT IPART PANS : Most of darker in color. That’s because
Metal vs. Glass vs. Ceramic: What’s the Difference? the pans in our lineup were made darker-colored pans absorb heat
from a single piece of metal, but more efficiently than golden-
and light-colored pans.
Although this isn’t
necessarily bad, when
baking food in a darker
pan, you’ll need to check
Metal pans with nonstick coatings (left) can’t do everything, so we use glass for doneness a few
and ceramic baking dishes too. Glass baking dishes (center) are safe for use minutes sooner than
with metal utensils. And unlike metals pans with nonstick coatings and glass when you would when
dishes, some ceramic baking dishes (right) are broiler-safe, making them the using pans that are lighter
only options for recipes that are cooked entirely or finish browning under the in color.
broiler’s intense heat.

OCTO BE R/NOV EM BE R 2023 • CO OK’S COU NTRY 43

 BONUS RECIPE

Seeded Lavash
Crackers
The perfect vehicle for your favorite dip.
by Emelia Mericola

QU I C K S E E D E D Combine sesame seeds, cumin

L AVAS H CRAC KE RS seeds, salt, and pepper in small
Makes 36 crackers bowl; set aside. Beat egg and
Total Time: 25 minutes water together in second small
If you don’t have a fluted pastry bowl; set aside.
wheel, you can use a pizza cutter 2 . Place 1 lavash on counter with
or a large knife to cut the lavash short side parallel to counter
in step 2. edge. Using fluted pastry wheel,
cut lavash vertically into three
1 tablespoon sesame seeds 3-inch-wide strips. Cut lavash
1 tablespoon cumin seeds strips at 2-inch intervals to make
2 teaspoons kosher salt a total of 18 pieces. Repeat with
1 teaspoon coarsely ground remaining lavash.
pepper 3. Arrange lavash pieces in even
1 large egg, lightly beaten layer on prepared sheets. Brush
1 tablespoon water each piece with egg mixture, then
2 (9 by 12-inch) lavash sprinkle evenly with seed mixture.
Bake until golden brown and
1. Adjust oven racks to crisp, 6 to 8 minutes, rotating and
upper-middle and lower-middle switching sheets halfway through
positions and heat oven to baking. Let cool before serving.
350 degrees. Line 2 baking (Crackers can be stored in airtight
sheets with parchment paper. container for up to 3 days.)

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44 COOK’S COUN TRY • O CTOBE R/ N OVE M BE R 2023

PORTRA I TS
OF TH E P EO P LE MATTHEW RAIFORD
pulls carrots from an elevated
WH O F E E D US bed at Gilliard Farms in
Brunswick, Georgia.
PHOTO BY STEVE KLISE

Read our collection of

On the Road articles at
CooksCountry.com/ontheroad
 INSIDE THIS ISSUE

24 Bulgur with Roasted Vegetables, 24 Pepperoni Pizza with Blue 28 Flash-Marinated Skirt Steaks 13 Watercress and Apple Salad 11 Cider-Braised Turkey
Beans, and Arugula Salad Cheese, Peppers, and Honey with Gochujang and Scallion with Maple-Hazelnut Vinaigrette

25 Beet Dip with Yogurt and Tahini 37 Pasta e Fagioli for Two 29 Shaved Cauliflower Salad with 38 Browned Butter Chocolate 40 One-Pan Cod and Green Rice
Date-Dijon Dressing Chunk Muffins

34 Applesauce Spice Cake with 27 Klobásníky (Texas Czech–Style 33 Shoofly Pie 41 Brown Sugar Applesauce 18 Spiced Orange and Fennel Salad
Brown Sugar Icing Sausage Rolls)

24 Turkey Burgers with Pickled 22 Shrimp Scampi with Zucchini 15 Pawpaw Ice Cream 36 Instant Pot Beef Ragu 44 Quick Seeded Lavash Crackers
Cranberries Noodles

19 Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes 22 Glazed Salmon with Kale, Pear, 31 Shanghai Scallion Oil Noodles 20 Pan-Seared Chicken Cutlets 17 Cranberry-Glazed Roast Pork
and Cheddar Salad with Wilted Basil and Pine Nuts Loin