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Nº 55

Nº 55 • 11€
Armour Modelling Magazine

PANZER PAPERS
PANZER ACES

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 OUR EXCITING NEW BOOK RELEASES

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 PANZER ACES Nº 55 2017

2 WAFFENTRAGER KRUPP STEYR

This is one of those vehicles known only by three or four extant photographs of which two
units were made at most. In this article you will find an easy albeit laborious method for
making a highly attractive circular camouflage scheme. Both the assembly and paintjob are
very well executed and stand out because of its efficiency and simplicity. Oscar has suc-
ceeded in giving this vehicle a captivating finish.

14 E-25
This is a mid-run AFV from the Entwicklung series. David has made a few improvements
which can be easily duplicated by anyone interested, adding a lot of interest to this kit.
In this case, the highlight of this article resides in the paintjob and all the techniques and
processes which David clearly explains: lights, hairspray technique, camouflage executed
with masking, paint chips, dirt, splashes… He not only explains this clearly, he also shows us
a highly attractive kit. We’re sure that you will learn a lot from him.

26 MAUS
This magnificent kit comes from the other end of the world. Such spectacular kits are quite
uncommon. Kreangkrai makes a tantalizing display of imagination, technique mastering and
color. The result is this incredible Maus. As you know only two units were made and only one of
these had an armed turret. This incredibly talented author was forced to leave historical fidelity
aside in order to avoid choking his inspiration and he gives us this visual delight of a Maus in the
“what if” domain which we hope that you’ll enjoy as much as we did.

34 E-100
The older brother of the Paper Panzer saga has fallen into the hands of José Brito. Expert hands like his’ have
gotten the most out of this beast. This article is quite interesting because José
has made two different turret versions. As usual, he has placed his vehicle in a simple, yet
beautiful diorama, full of different elements and small details which are quite relevant. Here
you’ll find all his “secrets” perfectly well explained with text and pictures. This is without
question, well rounded work.

48 WAFFENTRAGER ARDELT. In spite of the consensus against works with more than one author,
Xavi and Michel decided to unite their talents to create this project. We can readily see how much fun
they had with it. Xavi took care of the assembly and Michel painted this kit. This is also
a latter vehicle made in a very few units, and very little information is found dealing with it. However its
attractive lines and its uncommon shapes make this a highly attractive piece for many modelers. Even if the
part dealing with its assembly isn’t very long, the assembly work wasn’t easy and the painting section has
been dealt with here step by step. The weathering and micro painting work needs to be singled out. This
is another highly instructive article and we hope that you get the most out of it.

60 MODELER’S SCHOOL
This time, we’re dealing with how tracks can be painted. This is a crucial feature on AFV’s and sadly many modelers don’t pay
enough attention and effort to it, failing to match the work made here with the work made on the rest of the vehicle. We show here
two different approaches that will lead you to a similar result.

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1_indice_55.indd 1 28/8/17 19:04

 German Krupp
Steyr
ffentrager
Wa

/2

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 By Oscar Ebrí

1/35
Although it may sound strange, I decided to make this kit about nine years
ago. I didn’t know how or when but since I saw Adam Wilder’s kit
online I fell in love with his Waffentrager and his style. Over time
and after almost six years away from this hobby I returned
and incorporated color modulation to the basis of my kits.
I reckon that I love to search for and force the volumes
of kits with paint gradations and a lot of contrast. I
must say that when I returned to this hobby I was very
conscious of the fact that with only about twenty kits
behind me and with so much to learn I shouldn’t get
stuck in one style alone. So I decided that when I had
made a balanced enough kit whose quality didn’t depend
alone on the modulated base, I would abandon the style and would
pursue less effect oriented ways to work. And that’s exactly what this
model kit is; the sum of the work I did with the modulated bases and what for
me represents the balance between the realistic approach and something that only relishes
on the different paint effects.

3/

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 It is also my small contribution to this my kit. At first I wanted to do a full pro- camouflage schemes and base colors from
relatively new “What if” model kit current duction run kit with all its different tools 1944 and 45. While I was still making this
which is so fashionable right now. The and tow cables, but after trying out several decision I obtained the invaluable help
fact is and remains that this AFV hunter different configurations I abandoned the and advice of modelers like Adam Wilder
never made it into full production. This idea. I devoted a lot of spare time between and Carlos Blanco, both of which have
gave me a lot of freedom when I was other projects to elaborate about sixteen influenced my work enormously.
toying with the ideas about how to make color profiles based on different German

ASSEMBLY
1. The turret and the interior were painted
1
and weathered in order to be able to close
down the hull and continue with the
assembly.
2-3. Once this was done I glued the upper
and the lower parts of the hull and used
some Tamiya Putty diluted with acetone
in order to fill some gaps on the rear and
underneath the sides. Putty usually shrinks,
so I repeated this operation once it dried
until the gaps were filled perfectly. Once it
was all dry I sanded the surfaces even. I had
to repeat the putty and acetone operation
until the gap was successfully covered.
4. In order to break the symmetry of
the model kit, I decided to feature a
broken mudguard. I dented it with pliers
and a knife until I was satisfied with its
appearance. Then I sanded the piece to
make it less thick. I had to drill the holes for
the screws holding the mudguard to the hull
and this was done with a 0.5mm drill bit.

2 3 4

The trumpeter kit is pretty good and it of, such as the imaginative attempt at con- marks on the floor of the compartment.
does not have unsurpassable problems or figuring its internal compartment and the Once I was aware of all this, I began to
stuff which is impossible to figure out. The poor choice they made when they put the assemble both the interior and the hull
styrene used is of a high quality and the fit- ammunition deposit precisely underneath without any issues. The interior detail is
ting of the different pieces is generally quite the copilot’s hatch. This of course makes good enough to leave the driver’s hatch
good. The flashing and mold extrusion it impossible to leave the copilot’s hatch open, so I decided not to add anything
marks are almost nonexistent and details open, unless we make the interior of the else. When the interior of the hull and the
are well marked. The box also provides the vehicle from scratch. Once the turret is turret had been assembled I painted these
motor grilles and several other P.E. details in place, its hexagonal shape will make it parts and weathered them accordingly.
and also a turned aluminum gun. Although collide against the driver’s and copilot’s
I decided to use the Friulmodel ones here, hatches. The handles for the rear hatches, MATERIALS EMPLOYED
the individual link tracks included with this if left unmodified will also suffer the exact • German Krupp Steyr Waffentrager -
kit are pretty decent. same fate. And finally, if you intend to build Trumpeter - Nr. 01598 - 1:35
The only negative comments about this kit and leave the turret uncovered, you • Friulmodel 1:35 ATL-123
this kit are stuff that I was already aware will have to get rid of some mold extrusion
/4

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 5 6

5. I employed P.E. hinges that were

left over from another set for detailing
the driver’s hatch. I also added to
the interior of the hatch some pieces
that were made out of Plasticard.
The pieces are meant to recreate
the padding intended to protect the
driver’s head.
6. Afterwards I added Plasticard
strips underneath the turret to raise
it a little bit to avoid it from colliding
with the hatches. I also got rid of the
handles of the rear hatches and put
new ones in more accurate positions.

7-8. I finished the assembly work by creating

with Tamiya’s epoxy putty a tarp for covering
the upper area of the turret because this would
have been the logical thing to do if the vehicle
had successfully entered mass production.
8

5/

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 9 PAINTING
9. I began the painting chores by
priming the AFV and then applied
the first “Dunkelgelb” coat on the
areas without camouflage. Once it
dried I masked these areas with paper,
Tamiya masking tape and Blue tack.
10. Then I airbrushed the areas where
I wanted the “Rotbraun” spots and
made some highlights and shadows
using paint gradation to accentuate
the volumes of the kit.
Then I masked the disk shaped
camouflage areas. I employed for
this 3mm discs printed by my good
friend Alexander Wegner using a
vinyl plotter. Obviously this process
10 is much more elaborate than using
the masking available to make this
camouflage scheme, but it also gives
us total freedom and comfort when
it comes to airbrushing. 1100 disks
approximately were used to create
this camouflage.

11

11. Once this

was done, I
airbrushed the
“Olivgrün”
following the
same highlight
distribution
created when
I was applying
“Rotbraun”.

/6

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 12. Once the “Olivegrün” had dried; I
applied the last coat of “Dunkelgelb”
and painted the mantlet in a dark
brown hue in order to create a base
for rust. Immediately afterwards, I 12
painted the details with different color
variations in order to visually enhance
them some more. The gradations on
the gun were smoothened before I
began the oil paint work because I
judged these to be too forced.
13. Decals were set using the usual 13
decal products to soften these and
adjust them well in place.
14. A sponge and several rust colored
acrylic hues were used to create the
color richness and gradations for the
dark rust color base.

14 15 16

15. Later I airbrushed a coat of medium

for paint chips and then another coat in 17 18
a light gray hue. I allowed this to dry
for a few minutes and removed part of
this coat using a paintbrush and some
water. Once it was all dry I applied a
“NATO camouflage” paint filter. This
filter can be used for a lot of things and
is quite effective when working with
old rusted surfaces.
16. At this point I was still not 17. Finally I created some more 18. A pencil was now used to recreate
satisfied with this and found the recent rust using enamel mixed with the very particular metal hue of
results to be quite flat and lacking a pigments. This gives you a very welded areas.
proper color range, so I decided to use realistic matt finish. I simply applied
the oil dotting technique using ochre paint first in random spots and
and medium rust colors. then melted everything
19. As I was working on the mantlet, with thinner.
I did the oil paint work which was
basically limited to applying the
well-known dotting technique in
order to unify all base colors and
increase the color range on
the areas without

camouflage.
Both on the
turret and the
sides of the AFV oil
paint was melted with
19
vertical brush strokes in
order to recreate dirt trails
and streaks.

7/

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 20-21. Immediately afterwards I
applied a few pinpoint washes to
all the details of the kit in order to
enhance the lines and shapes. At
this stage we can see really well all
20 the volumes and the contrast on our
kit. I usually apply a wash at this
stage and correct specific areas after
applying dirt if at all necessary. In this
composition we can appreciate clearly
the “before” and “after” differences
after executing this technique.

21

22. In order to make the paint

chips, I did first a round of paint
scratches and superficial paint chips lighting
22 up the base colors and using a no. 0 brush
for it. I insisted with a few elongated lines
on the sides to recreate some scratches. In
order to create the deepest paint chips I
used dark rust and added a little acrylic paint
retardant for Vallejo acrylics. This product
is particularly useful for two reasons. First
it prevents paint from drying too soon on
the tip of your paintbrush reducing thus the
times you have to clean up the brush and dip
it again in paint. The other reason being that
if we have nearby a brush soaked with water
we have more time to correct the paint chips
that we don’t like. A little foam sponge was
used on the mudguards to do the paint chips
there.
23. I almost always apply dirt and grime
on the hull towards the end of the painting
process and this time it was no different. I
23 started creating some spots in sand colored
hues all around the hatches and all the other
details and immediately afterwards I melted
these with a paintbrush soaked in thinner.
Once dry, I applied some pigments with a
paintbrush, applying smaller amounts of
“dirt” all over the hull in a more random
fashion. This step is quite effective because it
creates a contrast between the surface of the
kit and the ultra matt finish created by the
color pigments. I simply used White Spirit to
fix it in place and gave it no further thought.

/8

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 UNDERCARRIAGE

1 I usually follow the 1 2 3

same methods for the lower
areas of the kit. I start
with the wheels and apply
small amounts of pigment
without fully covering the
base color paint. I usually
begin with a dark pigment
and then move on to the
lighter hues in order to
create contrast.
4 5
2 Graphite was used for
rubbing the outer band of
the wheel and recreating
the friction-polished
surfaces. We can also do
this with a metallic pigment
or painting this area with
metal paint.
3 On areas with holes
or crevices humidity stays
longer and this can be easily 6 I finished the work
6
recreated with enamels or here using graphite
oil paint. In order to make to create the friction-
the humid spots on the polished areas where the
wheels I used “Damp Earth” tracks touch the wheels.
and “Sienna” oil paint. If metal tracks are used,
this effect can be obtained
4 I moved on to the
by simply sanding paint
Friulmodel tracks which
in this area. By creating
were first assembled and
contrast first and then
cleansed with acetone
unifying all hues I obtain a
and then covered with the
varied color range but the
track treatment liquid. I
result is at the same time
used an old toothbrush
quite subtle.
and a toothpick to get this
liquid on the areas with air 7 I capped the work here
bubbles. Once it was all dry by working on the lower
I began to apply different 7 part of the hull airbrushing
colored pigments in a sand colored enamel
random fashion. The idea hues. About twenty
is to get a lot of contrast minutes later I partially
between the different hues. removed this paint using
a paintbrush soaked in
5 In order to unify all
White Spirit. The result
these colors and make
was an excellent base for
the tracks a single visual
the dirt on the lower areas
unit I used highly diluted
of the vehicle.
enamel colors and did some
splashes throughout until I 8 I applied the color
was satisfied with the end pigments on top of this
result. and created specific
8 clusters in some areas
and fixed everything in
place with some thinner.
Once it dried I repeated
the process which I had
previously employed for
the tracks in order to unify
the different pigment
hues.

9/

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 24 25

24. The old rust streaks were made with a mixture of “Damp Earth” and Sienna oil paint.
First I painted the lines using a thin paintbrush and a few minutes later melting it with a flat
tipped paintbrush soaked with White Spirit. I did a few rust streaks going from the
upper half of the sides of the vehicle and coming out of 25. I did another
thing to break the symmetry of the overall finish of the AFV; I put
on one side an old and weathered chain. I just
basically glued it with a few drops of
cyanoacrylate glue.

25. I did another

26 thing to break the
symmetry of the
overall finish of the
AFV; I put on one side an
old and weathered chain.
I just basically glued it with
a few drops of cyanoacrylate
glue.
26. The final touches were a few
splashes on the rear of the hull. I
did this using sand colored enamel
mixed with some pigments. Using a
paintbrush with stiff hairs with very
little paint I made these splashes
varying the color hues.
27
27. It is important to be able to match
the different colors that make up the
dirt on the lower areas of the vehicle,
the wheels and tracks.

/ 10

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 28. The lack of the right mudguard creates a symmetry
that increases the visual appeal.
29. Getting the size of the paint chips right is capital in
order to make these look realistic enough.

28 29

11 /

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 Color pigments are an indispensable tool for recreating realistic dirt and sand on
the lower parts and undercarriage of a vehicle.

/ 12

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 13 /

2-13_Waffenträger.indd 13 28/8/17 19:07

 By David Pérez

1/35
The “E” series of AFVs was a development concept for
armored combat vehicles with the
goal of obtaining a maximum of
efficiency, speed and economy of production.
In order to achieve this, they attempted to share as
many components between the different vehicles
as possible and for instance, the use of entirely
metallic 88cm wheels employed by the Tiger II’s was
extended to all models. The idea was to create six
different models ranging from the lightest to the
heaviest one. The E-5 had to weigh between five
and ten tons, the E-10 would weigh between ten and
twenty five, the E-25 would cover the twenty five to
fifty ton range and this progression was to have been
followed by the E-50, E-75 and E-100 models. The E-25
was the model designated to replace the veteran Pz III and
Pz. IV. Its undercarriage had five overlapping wheels without
return roller pins. The tractor wheels were placed in the rear. Its
principal weapon was the well-known and efficient 7.5 cm KwK 42
L/70 and the auxiliary one would be the classic 7.92 machine gun mounted on
a small truncated cone turret.

/ 14

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 Entwicklung

25
15 /

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 ASSEMBLY

I employed for this project, Trumpeter’s one by one which is the option I have 1
1/35 scale model kit. It is a rather basic kit, chosen. A decal sheet is also included and
presented in gray sprues and containing also the classic illustration showing the
also the two parts forming the hull of the camouflage pattern for this model and of
vehicle and its turret. It is worth noting course, an instruction sheet.
that the manufacturer offers us two dif-
ferent track sets; on the one hand we have
the classic black vinyl ones, and on the 7
other hand we have the styrene ones that
are formed by assembling the track links

2-6

3
5

IMPROVEMENTS MADE:

• P.E. Sheet (included with the kit):

1- The three engine ventilation grilles.
2- The rear and frontal mudguards/fenders.
3- The kit offers two different sets of tracks, the classic vinyl ones or the styrene ones which are assembled
link by link which is the option that I took.
• Custom improvements:
4- Remove all plastic rings on the upper part of the hull and replace these for 0.3mm wire rings.
5- Enhance all welding lines.
6- Add the electric wiring for the frontal and rear lights.
7- Make a tow cable by trussing several copper wires.
8- Replace the original clasp of the shovel for a P.E. piece.

14-24_E-25.indd 16 28/8/17 19:04

 PAINTING
1. I wanted to do a safe paintjob
and began the process by applying
1 A-IMG- 2005 black primer. I made
four passes with my airbrush kit
and allowed for every pass to
thoroughly dry before doing a new
one.
2. I began to paint the kit with
A. MIG-044 “Chipping” and
covered the entire vehicle with
this color. Then, with A. MIG-042
“Old Rust” acrylic I made some
highlights on the top areas of the
hull, turret and gun.

2 3. Then I began to airbrush A. MIG-

011 “Dunkelgleb” on the lower
half of the hull, undercarriage and
suspension as you can see in the
picture. The rest of the hull got a
couple of coats of chipping effects
(A.MIG-2011 “Heavy Chipping
Effects”) and when this product is
touch dry then we can work on the
camouflage scheme.
4. Afterwards I painted
“Dunkelgleb” the rest of the hull,
3 insisting a bit more on the upper
areas with it and less on the lower
ones, creating thus a highlight
transition with this single color.
5. And here is where the camouflage
process begins. Using A. MIG-8012
4 Masking Putty I began to cover the
“Dunkelgelb” areas that I
wanted to preserve.
6. A.MIG-015
“Schokobraun”
was now
airbrushed as the
second camouflage
color and I applied
it along the sides of
the putty covering some
5 “Dunkelgelb” areas.

17 /

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 7. I used again the masking putty to cover
7 the brown areas, in pretty much the same
way I did when covering the yellow areas.
8. I continued the process by airbrushing
A.MIG-003 “Reseda Green” on the areas
of the hull which were not covered with
putty.
9. Once this green hue was dry; I proceeded
8
to remove the different masking
putty covered areas. The
result is a sharp
edged three color
camouflage,
where the colors
are perfectly
aligned together. As
you can see this is a
fast and easy way to
do this.
10-11. And now it’s time
to make the paint chips and
scratches. Remember that we’ve
applied a coat of “Chipping Effects” before
we did the camouflage. With a round
9
tipped paintbrush I soaked with water
the areas of the kit where I wanted the
paint chips. I let the water do its work and
began to rub the area with the paintbrush
and also employed an old needle to make
some scratches. In order to protect all the
painting we’ve done so far, I applied a
couple of coats of A.MIG-090 satin varnish
which is also an excellent base for the
decals.

10

11

/ 18

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 12. Once the decals were properly 12
placed on the kit, I began the
weathering work. First I applied a
well diluted Sienna oil paint filter
(check the bottle cap containing
this dilution). I covered the entire
kit with it and applied it with round
tipped paintbrush. The intention
behind this was to unify all colors and
give the camouflage a yellowish hue
throughout. I let this filter dry for
about two days.
13. In order to weather paint and
create different nuances, the oil paint 13
melting technique is a surefire classic.
First I applied enamel thinner on all
the areas that I wanted to treat and
then I “pecked” the surface with
the different oil paint colors and
afterwards I took a brush soaked in
this same thinner and “combed” in
a vertical upwards and downwards
motion the different oil color hues
“melting” all these together.
14 to 16. In order to enhance a few
details, mark some areas and give
the whole thing some depth, I made
a pinpoint wash using A.MIG-1001
“Africa Korps Wash”.

14 15

16

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 17 18 17. In order to recreate rust,
dirt or grime, I mixed A.MIG-
1001 “Afrika Korps” wash with
A.MIG-1204 “Streaking Rust”,
and diluted these more or less,
depending on the areas where I
wanted to apply it. I used a denser
mixture for the engine’s ventilation
grilles, and a lighter one applied with
the mapping technique for the upper
portion of the hull. I also applied this to the lower areas of
the sides of the hull and the square shapes for the supports
for the lateral protections.
18. In order to accentuate and degrade the green surface, I
went over it with light green oil paint. I put a small amount
of oil paint and then “melted” it. This way I created more
contrast between the camouflage colors.

19. A fast and easy way

to make some mud on the
lower areas of the vehicle is
to use enamel A.MIG-1702
“Turned Earth”. Using an
old paintbrush I deposited
this product by gently
tapping my brush against
the desired surfaces in order
to get some texture as well.
19 20. “Europe Earth” pigment
and a paintbrush I tapped
the brush on the same
surfaces where I had
previously applied the
“Turned Earth” enamel
while this was still fresh.
This way the lower areas
“dried up” obtaining thus a
dry mud effect. The upper
areas are however left
undisturbed, creating an
appealing contrast for my
20 kit.

21 22

21-22. The tractor wheel, the front wheel and the two outer wheels where painted with A.MIG-011 “Dunkelgelb”
acrylic, while the outer wheels of the undercarriage were painted with A.MIG-083. I did paint chips on all wheels using
the sponge technique in a very subtle way without excesses using A.MIG-044 “Chipping”. Later on I did a pinpoint wash
with the A.MIG-1001 “Afrika Korps” wash and A.MIG-1204 “Streaking Rust”. Once this had dried I did some splashes
with A.MIG-1754 “Damp Earth” enamel in a more subtle and controlled way, without covering the previous applications.
Lastly I applied some A. MIG-3004 “Europe Earth” pigment “dry” on very specific areas on the wheels and did some
washes on some nuts using A.MIG-1408 “Fresh Engine Oil”.

/ 20

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 23 24

23. I employed this pigment also to create

25 some dirt on specific areas of the kit such
as the sides or the rear. Then on these areas
I did small splashes with enamel product
A.MIG-1753 “Turned Dirt”. I used this
product slightly diluted and applied it with
a small paintbrush and also a toothpick. I
did this is a very controlled way.
24. The turret received the same painting
processes employed for the hull, but with
two exceptions, the green paint I used for
the camouflage is A.MIG-083 “Zashchitniy
Zeleno” and the hatch on the turret
maintains the “Chipping” acrylic with a
“Streaking Rust” wash. I also painted the
periscope on the hatch using A.MIG-908
“Base Gray” color.

26 27

25. The ventilation grilles received an extra dosage of

28 dirt and dark rust. This enhances the grilles from its
surroundings and makes them more appealing.
26. The great range of sizes, shapes and opacity of
the dirt spots is fundamental when striving to obtain
realistic dirt effects.
27. The abundant rust on the gun mantlet makes it
that much more realistic and it also generates a visual
point of interest.
28. The exhaust received a special treatment using
the hairspray technique and pigments as described
in Panzer Aces issue 53 in the “Modeler’s School”
section.

21 /

14-24_E-25.indd 21 28/8/17 19:06

 Every detail adds something up when it comes to creating a realistic look: The varying rust marks on the areas where the
supports for the Schurzen were screwed, the spare track links, the tow cable, the helmets of the crew, the varying shapes
of the micro paint chips…

/ 22

14-24_E-25.indd 22 28/8/17 19:06

 COLOR CHART
Priming: WEATHERING:
Negro A.MIG-2005 Filters:
Base color: Ouderless thinner A.MIG-2019, Oils Titan:
Chipping A.MIG-044, Old Rust A.MIG-042 White, Sienna, Green, Green light.
Camouflage: Washes:
Dunkelgelb A.MIG-011, Reseda Green A.MIG- Africa Korps A.MIG-1001
003, Schokobraun A.MIG015, Satin Varnish Dirt, rust:
A.MIG-090 Africa Korps A.MIG-1001, Streaking Rust
Gun and periscope on turret’s hatch: A.MIG-1204
Base Grey A.MIG-908 Mud and splashes:
Paint chips and camouflage masking: Turned Earth A.MIG-1702, Turned Dirt
Heavy Chipping A.MIG-2011, Masking Putty A.MIG-1753, pigment Europe Earth
A.MIG-8012 A.MIG-3004

23 /

14-24_E-25.indd 23 28/8/17 19:06

 / 24

14-24_E-25.indd 24 28/8/17 19:06

25_Pub.indd 1 29/8/17 9:49
 Panzerkampf
Maus
“Mouse”

/ 26

26-32_MAUS.indd 26 7/9/17 9:19

pfwagen VIII

By Kreangkrai Paojinda

1/35
The Maus was one of many desperate and mad Nazi attempts at
creating an invincible and definitive weapon. Even if it seems like
a poorly conceived last minute concoction, the project for creating
this giant goes back to 1942, although the only two units created
actually came out in late 1944: Prototype V1 with a test turret
and prototype V2 with an armed turret. The V2 was destroyed by
the Germans themselves in order to prevent it from being captured
by the enemy. The V1 was captured by the Soviets who armed it with
the V2 turret. The statistics of this behemoth are superlative. It weighed
188 tons; it was 10 meters long with a 3.67 meter width and a 3.63 meter
height. The thickness of its armoring was 250mm at its thickest point. It was
armed with a 12.8cm KwK 44 L/71 gun (main weapon) that was able to destroy
any enemy AFV at a distance range of 3,500 meters. Its secondary weapon was a 7.5cm
KwK 44 L 36,5 coaxial gun. It was equipped with a 1200HP diesel engine that could move
the vehicle at a maximum of 20km per hour.

27 /

26-32_MAUS.indd 27 7/9/17 9:19

 ASSEMBLY
The model kit employed
was one of Dragon’s first 1
series and it was manu-
factured in 1992, and this
means that there are plenty
of mold extrusion marks.
The kit however isn’t bad
and is a faithful representa-
tion of the real life vehicle.
There is nothing remark-
able about its assembly,
and by simply following
the instruction sheet you
can put it together without
issues.

1. I made a number of
small improvements to
2 3
the kit; I redid a few
welding lines both on
the turret and the hull.
2. I also modified the
texture of the armored
planks using Tamiya’s
putty. I removed the
Bosch headlight and
added an infrared night
vision system taken
form Tamiya’s Panther
G.
3. I added a
commander’s cupola
taken from a King Tiger 4
to the roof of the turret.
4. Extra fuel tanks were
added to the back of
the vehicle for added
interest.
Obviously my Maus
is entirely fictional; it
occurred to me that
it would be much
more interesting and
entertaining to create
a possible operational
version in a hypothetical
war scenario had the
war gone beyond 1945.

26-32_MAUS.indd 28 7/9/17 9:19

 PAINTING

5. Abducted by the works of other

5
modelers who have portrayed in
numerous occasions AFV’s with no
more paint than the red colored
anti-rust priming, I
decided to give it a
try and see how far
my own version
took me. I decided
beforehand that it
would have the red
primer -of course-,
and also areas with
raw metal rusted all over
and other surfaces with
a light coat of Dunkelgelb
or gray. The chalk numerals
and markings seen on the period
pictures had of course to be present as
well. I also wanted a night camouflage
made out of cloth rags.
6

6. The rusted metal hue and

the red priming are the
predominant visual
features. I obtained
these colors by doing
several different
mixtures, allowing
myself to get carried away by
my own inspiration. The colors
employed were: C029 “Hull Red”,
C62 “Flat White”, C41 Red Brown
and C33 “Flat Black all from Gunze
MR.
7. In order to make my “Maus” more
interesting and attractive, I covered the right
side of its hull with a light coat of Dunkelgelb
71.025 from Vallejo Acrylics.

29 /

26-32_MAUS.indd 29 7/9/17 9:19

 8. The Numerals and other
8 manufacture markings are painted
with color pencils and AV Panzer Aces
313 “Stencil” acrylic paint.
9. The rusted metal effects on the
front part of the hull are made with
Panzer Aces Acrylics 301 “Light
Rust”, 302 “Dark Rust” and 303
“Yellowish Rust”.
10. The dirt trails are painted with A
MIG’s 1203 “Streaking Grime”.
11. The dirt effects were obtained
with random mixtures of different
color pigments applied dry.

9 10

COLOR CHART
Panzer Aces Vallejo Acrylics:
Light Rust 301, Dark Rust 302,
11 Yellowish Rust 303, Stencil 313
Model Color Vallejo Acrylics:
70.950 Black, 70.822 German Black
Brown, 70.979 German Dark Green,
70.600 White
Air Vallejo:
Dunkelgelb 71.025
Ammo MIG:
Fresh Engine Oil 1408, Wet Effect
2015, Damp Earth 1406, Streaking
Grime 1203
MR. Color – Gunze:
C 029 Hull Red, C62 Flat
White, C41 Red Brown,
C33 Flat Black

/ 30

26-32_MAUS.indd 30 7/9/17 9:19

 12. Dampness
12 was recreated
with A MIG’s
2015 “Wet
Effect” and
1406 “Damp
Earth”.

13. The cloth rags were made using

the two component Epoxy putty type.
I painted these using dark and gray
hues using the Vallejo acrylic range:
70.950 “Black”, 70.822 “German
Black Brown”, 70.979 “German Dark
Green” and 70.600
“White”.

13 14

14. The improvised nocturnal camouflage made out of cloth rags

15. The classic oil
gives the kit further visual impact and appeal.
spills coming out
of the exhaust
were made using A
MIG’s 1408 “Fresh
Engine Oil”.

15

31 /

26-32_MAUS.indd 31 7/9/17 9:19

 A few leaves strategically intertwined between the cloths surfaces
allow us to judge the relative sizes of each item. The leaves are also
a visual highlight offering a color contrast between the cloth and the
leaves.

/ 32

26-32_MAUS.indd 32 7/9/17 9:19

33_Pub.indd 1 29/8/17 9:50
 1/35
The E-100 project began in 1943, but Hitler decided to cancel the development of all the
“super heavy tanks “altogether. In spite of this, the works continued and when the war
was almost over, a full AFV with only its turret missing was found. When the war finished,
this sole prototype was sent to England and sometime later it was dismantled.
The E-100 was intended to be an alternative to the MAUS. Weighing 140 tons, and with a
crew of five men and armed with a 128mm KWK44 it would have been a true predator on
the battlefield.

By José Brito

34-47_E-100.indd 34 28/8/17 19:07

 Predator on Patrol

34-47_E-100.indd 35 28/8/17 19:07

 EL E-100 DE TRUMPETER ASSEMBLY
Trumpeter’s E-100 model kit is quite The decals are top notch and Trumpeter it comes to putting in place, gluing and
good. The design of the box is quite also provides a small P.E. sheet for the ven- painting. You have to be extra cautious,
appealing, the styrene kit fits all right, it has tilation grilles. particularly when striving to make the
pretty good detailing on all its textures and In my opinion, the only negative point tracks look convincing and realistic once in
the instruction sheet is clear and is divided of this Trumpeter kit is the one-piece vinyl place.
in 26 steps to follow in a simple manner. tracks, which are a true nightmare when

1. Trumpeter’s E-100 kit is pretty good. The pieces fit together nicely, the
overall detail is quite good and the texture of the different surfaces is quite
remarkable. I’ve chosen to build two different versions, and the turrets
1
are the only difference between these. I’ve chosen to use the
turret found in Trumpeter’s box and another one by
Cammett. The Cammett set contains a huge resin
turret, a resin gun and a few loose pieces such as
the hatches. This set reproduces the turret
designed by Krupp. The size is quite
impressive and the resin molding
is excellent. It fits perfectly
into the Trumpeter kit.
A few small
adjustments are
necessary, but
nothing serious.

2. This is the same model but built

straight from the box with the turret MATERIALS EMPLOYED
provided by Trumpeter. A very • 1/35 Trumpeter, German E-100 Super Heavy Tank, Item 00384
different looking turret if you compare • 1/35 Cammett Ltd., Krupp E-100 Turret, Item CAMTAFV35001
it to Cammett’s but it still looks • 1/35 Blast Models, Tank Crew 1946 Paper Panzers, Item BL 35126F
pretty good. It is sort of funny to see • 1/35 RMG Resin Models, WWI WW2 Steel Pickets for barbed wire entanglements,
how the kit changes when the turrets Item RM040
are switched. Cammett’s turret makes • 1/35 RMG Resin Models, Barbed Wire (two points type), Item RM013
it look like a defensive AFV, and • 1/35 RMG Resin Models, Cooper Cables for German Tiger II Tank and Jagdtiger Tank,
Trumpeter’s turret makes it look more Item RM033
like a predator. • 1/35 Royal Model, German Damaged Oil Drums (WW2), Item 618

/ 36

34-47_E-100.indd 36 28/8/17 19:07

 4. Replacing some plastic
3 4
pieces for metal ones
makes the kit that much
more realistic. I drill a
few small holes on the
turret in order to be able
to insert the new metal
rings. In order to glue all
these at an even height
3. The assembly is quite simple. I y simply put a toothpick
always start with the undercarriage inside each ring and
and the lower parts of the hull. The proceed to glue the rings
kit is mainly built “straight from the using a little “Deluxe
box” and I’ve only added a few small Materials Rocket Hot”
pieces to improve the kit a little. cyanoacrylate glue which
Metal handles and rings shaped with works wonderfully by the
my “Small Shop Tool” replace the 5 capillarity principle.
plastic ones. The best thing about
this tool is that all pieces come out
identical. All we have to do is to pick
the right diameter and then bend the
wire carefully.

5. Gluing the two halves of Trumpeter’s plastic

gun is a process that requires a little extra
attention. The best thing is to use Tamiya tape to
hold both halves together and then glue these with
“Deluxe Materials’ Plastic Magic” styrene glue. This
is extraordinarily thin glue that works by the capillarity
principle, melts the styrene together and gives you a strong bond for both parts.
Once the glue dries, we simply have to sand the surface a little to get rid of the
union lines.
6. Although the night vision system included in the box has all the right details,
this can always be improved. A wire or a new metal handle made out of metal
wire can always be added.

7. The Trumpeter kit includes a small

P.E. sheet which includes the ventilation
grilles and other minor pieces. Here we can see the
assembled kit with the unglued Cammett turret to check
if everything fits in place. I didn’t have to use putty and the
pieces fit together remarkably well. I only used a little MR
Surfacer 1000 to make sure that the union lines were perfectly
sealed.
37 /

34-47_E-100.indd 37 28/8/17 19:07

 PAINTING
Before I start painting I take the kit
8
apart, because many pieces need to be
painted separately.

8. The kit was covered with Vallejo’s

Gray Primer. Being a kit made out of
different materials; styrene plastic,
resin, P.E., vinyl, etc., priming is
capital when it comes to obtaining a
satisfactory finish. I apply it in several
thin coats, obtaining a smooth surface
that doesn’t cover up the kit’s texture
or detail.
9. Many pieces are painted separately,
and this allows me to reach all corners
9 and obtain a perfect finish. From
the outset I had planned to make a
heterogeneous tank made with pieces
from different origins. That’s why I’m
painting the pieces in different colors.
This color variation makes the vehicle
more appealing.

10. Once the Vallejo priming 10

dried, I airbrushed the entire
kit with AV’s 71040 “Burnt
Umber” to recreate the red
primer German AFV’s had in
WWII.

11. After this “real

11
life” primer dried up I
proceeded to apply the
base color. The hull and
the Trumpeter turret
are painted with AV’s
71028 “Sand
Yellow”.
Afterwards
I do a
light color
modulation
using
AV’s 71074
“Random
Tan”. This
process gives the kit a
much more appealing
appearance as opposed to
just applying a flat base
color.

34-47_E-100.indd 38 28/8/17 19:08

 12. Doing the color modulation with the Vallejo
12 colors is easy and quick because their color range
is pretty extensive and I don’t have to do endless
mixtures. I simply choose the colors to be used for
the highlights and shadows. In this case the base
color used is Model Air’s 71040 “Burnt Umber” and
the zenithal light source is represented with Model
13. The sides of the hull receive the same treatments
employed for Cammett’s turret, after masking the
upper and lower areas of the hull. It is advisable to
apply thin paint coats which do not cover the details
and textures of the kit. Once we’re done the kit is
ready for the dirt and weathering processes.

13

14. I only apply two small decals

for recreating the small inscriptions
left there during the
manufacturing process.
As usual, the Vallejo
liquids for fixing
decals come in quite
handy. First I dab
the area of the kit
receiving the decal
with the Decal Fix
product. Once the
surface is soaked and has
the decal in it, I apply on top
the Decal Medium liquid. The second
liquid softens the decal adapting it
perfectly to the surface where it sits.
Although initially the decal crumples
somewhat, once the liquid is dry the
decal will flatten itself out and sit
perfectly in place. For the rest of the
inscriptions on this vehicle I have
used a white pencil. Finally I seal the
decals with an airbrushed coat of matt
varnish. 14

WEATHERING AND FINISH

15 15. Now I do thousands of small paint

scratches in the most logical spots.
Usually I began doing these with a
sponge and finish the process with
a very fine paintbrush. In order to
make these look authentic, both paint
chips and scratches should be in the
right places and should also respect
the scale of the vehicle. The use of
different colors also makes the chips
look more realistic.

39 /

34-47_E-100.indd 39 28/8/17 19:09

 16. Other effects such as weathered
paint can also be achieved with
acrylic paint. The keyword here is
dilution. Using this medium and the
right colors you can also do local
color modulations that will enhance
enormously the finish of the vehicle.
17-18. The treading area on the metal
part of the wheels is initially painted
with AV’s 71072 “Gun Metal” and
then I rub the area with graphite.
19. Small paint chips are also made
on the wheels, using in this case AV’s
985 “Hull Red” applied both with a
sponge and a paintbrush.
20. On the large mudguards on the
sides I also make the same paint chips
and use the same means, but also
adding AV’s 822 “Camo Brown” and
985 “Hull Red”.
16
21. The vinyl tracks are a nightmare;
they are impossible to glue down, I
17 18 19 had to use staples which fortunately
are concealed. In order to paint these
I had to airbrush first Vallejo’s gray
primer. Without it no paint could
get a proper grip on these vinyl
tracks. Once the primer had dried I
airbrush AV Model Air’s 71040 “Burnt
Umber”. Finally I use graphite (pencil
lead) to create polish on the areas
subject to friction.
22. The exhausts are hand painted
using AV’s 985 “Red Brown”.
20

21 22

/ 40

34-47_E-100.indd 40 28/8/17 19:09

 23 24

23. Before we begin with the

paint washes, I protect the
previous work airbrushing
a coat of AV’s 70520 Matt
Varnish.

24. I applied a general wash to the entire kit using thinned

Windsor & Newton oil paints. Paint is mainly applied on the
25 recessed areas and several different colors are used to increase
the richness of the hues.

26

25. The next step involves using pigments, applied

both wet and dry. When applied dry, pigments are
fixed in place using Windsor & Newton’s Artist’s
White Spirit. Wet application is made using Vallejo’s
Glaze Medium. The greater the range of colors
employed, the more appealing the final result will be.

27
26. Whenever I fix pigments with
White Spirit I never touch them with my
paintbrush. I only let fall a few drops onto
these. The final result can only be appreciated
once it’s dry. The wet method is only used on
some of the lower areas of the hull, the undercarriage
and the tracks.
27. In order to accentuate the polished metal area on the tracks I
apply graphite once again, particularly on the most visible areas
and those areas where this effect is more likely to be observed.

BASE AND DIORAMA

28. Like all my projects, the E-100 is a part of a

28
small diorama with different volumes. The base is
a piece of wood with a balsa wood frame glued to
it. On the wood base itself I draw a small sketch
with the arrangement of all the items that will go
there. In the sketch we can clearly see a diagonal
arrangement that will create a more attractive visual
composition. The idea is to represent an urban scene
in a hypothetical 1947 Berlin setting.

41 /

34-47_E-100.indd 41 28/8/17 19:09

 29. The main volumes of
29 30
the base are created with
insulating sheet used by
construction workers. It is a
very light but very resistant
material; easy to carve, cut
and sand. Additionally it is
very cheap.
30. In order to apply texture
and shape the ground I use a
mixture of Aguaplast plaster,
thin sand Thalens Medium
gloss acrylic gel and brown
and black paint.
31. Then I apply this
31 32 paste to the base
using a brush.
32. Before the
mixture dries I apply
the MIG Prods.
cobblestone sections
cut to measure

33
33. I randomly scatter mid-sized rubble. This is glued using a mixture of water
and white glue applied with a syringe.
34. Afterwards I add other kinds of debris, such as wood beams, bricks and
other stones. All of these items are painted with different acrylic colors from
the Vallejo Model Color range.

34

/ 42

34-47_E-100.indd 42 28/8/17 19:10

 35 36

35. The obstacles are manufactured by Accurate Armour and have been
airbrushed with Vallejo’s Model Air’s 71041 “Tank Brown” and 71080 “Rust”.
36. Most of the items on this diorama are taken from the wonderful Miniart
sets. In this case we’re dealing with product ref. 35530 “Street
Accessories”. The painting process is pretty much the usual thing:
First I apply the airbrush primer. Then I airbrush the base color
and then I apply hundreds of paint chips.
37. Once I’ve painted all items I put these in place. Dioramas
recreating chaos and destruction are not easy to make, so studying as many
real life pictures as you can is highly recommended. Internet is a wonderful 38
source for this.

37

38. Miniart
product ref.
35523 “Tram
Supports and
Street Lamp”
has also been
employed here
since this is a
very original and
useful product. I
also added wires
to make it even
more realistic.

39. Once all the 39

items on the
diorama are in
place, I apply
paint washes
using different
Windsor &
Newton oils.
I also use
its specific
odorless
thinner:
Sansodor,
working
without smells
is much more
pleasant, right?

34-47_E-100.indd 43 28/8/17 19:10

 40. Once the oil paint washes have
dried up, I apply additional Vallejo
acrylic washes. The advantage of the
acrylic washes is the faster drying
speed and how useful these are to
increase the color hues.
41. Pigments applied “dry” are
applied last. The more colors we use,
the richer and appealing the result
will be.
42. Pigments are fixed in place with a
few drops of odorless thinner which
acts by the capillarity principle. Your
paintbrush should never touch the
pigments when releasing the thinner
drops. Remember that the final results
won’t be visible until the thinner has
40 dried.
43. This is the base once the paintjob
is finished and ready to receive the
41 E-100. The arrangements of the
different items in the composition
strengthen the imaginary and dynamic
diagonal composition
line.

42

43

34-47_E-100.indd 44 28/8/17 19:10

 FIGURES
44. The figures of the crewmen are from the
44 45
Blast Models catalogue (Tank Crew 1946 Paper
Panzers, Item BL 35126F) and are absolutely
great, do not have any flash and their poses are
quite realistic. I simply added the wires for the
communication headsets.
45. The figures are primed and painted with
Vallejo Model Color acrylics, but the flesh areas
are painted with oils. Dirt is recreated with
pigments.

46. There are small details that sometimes make all the difference.
In this case, a simple P.E. metal door is telling us how our E-100
broke into some enclosure. In the Berlin chaos,
a huge beast like the E-100 would be difficult
to maneuver.
46

COLOR CHART
Vallejo acrylics: 70.520 Matt Varnish 73.108 Brown Iron Oxide
71.028 Sand Yellow 70.596 Glaze Medium 73.109 Natural Umber
71.040 Burnt Umber 73.212 Decal Medium 73.110 Burnt Umber
71.041 Armour Brown 73.213 Decal Fix Oil colours Winsor &
71.072 Gun Metal 70.601 Grey Primer Newton:
71.074 Beige Vallejo washes: 2 Burnt Sienna
71.080 Rust 73.200 Sepia 25 Lamp Black
71.084 Fire Red 73.201 Black Shade 35 Raw Umber
70.822 SS Black Camo 73.202 Pale Grey White Spirit
Brown Vallejo pigments: Sansodor
70.985 Hull Red 73.104 Light Sienna

CONCLUSION
I enjoyed making this diorama a lot. Trumpeter’s E-100 is a great kit with a lot of details, the pieces fit
together nicely and it has a great potential. Combining the use of the Blast Model figures and the Cammett
turret we can get a highly appealing diorama. A good piece for any collection.
I hope that you have enjoyed it. See you later and take care.

45 /

34-47_E-100.indd 45 28/8/17 19:10

34-47_E-100.indd 46 28/8/17 19:10
34-47_E-100.indd 47 28/8/17 19:11
 WAFFENTRAGER
8,8 cm PaK 43 L / 71
(Ardelt)

/ 48

48-57_Waffentrager Ardelt.indd 48 28/8/17 19:07

R

By Xavier Ruiz and Michel Pérez

1/35
In the abundant photographic
material gathered on the final days
of the war, we can see a handful of
“strange” vehicles. One of these
is this “weapon carrier” with an
8.8cm PaK 43 L/71. It is a light
vehicle equipped with a powerful
anti-AFV gun. The first orders for its
manufacture go back to 1944. In spite
of the great difficulties experienced
by the German war industry at this
stage 7 units were manufactured and
sent to Ederswalde on February the
16th 1945.

49 /

48-57_Waffentrager Ardelt.indd 49 28/8/17 19:07

 The vehicle is based on the undercar- A test prototype and a further two this kit is quite good and so is its molding;
riage of the Jagdpanzer 38(t) but without units were captured in Hillersleben on there are few mold extrusion marks and
the rubber band on its wheels. The vehicle April the 27th 1945 by General A. Gor- these have been strategically well placed.
weighed about 11.200kg. It measured batova’s 3rd Army. At least one unit was Our copy hardly had any flash. The best
5430mm long, was 2440mm wide and abandoned on the Vandish-Buchholz area thing about this kit is that its contents
2400mm high. The vehicle could fire 360º and another one in Brandenburg. The allow you to opt for more complicated
its powerful 8,8cm PaK 43 L/71 and it remaining units suffered unknown fates. assembly options if you’re game for it. You
could store 32 ammunition units for it. Its It seems that Ardelt –its designer- died can for instance use the styrene gun shield
engine was a Maybach HL 42 with 100HP, defending his native Ebersvilde on one of or use the P.E. option. The same goes for
which combined with its five speed gear its Waffenträgers. the fenders and the gun. The individual
box, gave the vehicle a maximum speed of The Trumpeter kit is a well-balanced track links have a reasonable amount of
36km per hour. Its scarce armoring ranged kit. The piece arrangement is rather logical detail but do have mold extrusion marks
from a minimal 5mm on the gun’s shield and quite discreet. We are dealing with a and do require a lot of work to get rid of
to the 20mm on the frontal area of its hull. relatively small vehicle and therefore there and that’s why we decided to use the
The vehicle was operated with 5 men. are not too many pieces. The detail on ones from Master Club.

ASSEMBLY

1 1. By simply following the

instruction sheet you’ll be able to
assemble the kit without problems,
but we’re not dealing with a simple
kit, and this is mostly the gun’s
fault. Obviously getting rid of the
plastic mudguards and replacing
these for the P.E. ones is always a
delicate task that requires a lot of
attention.

MATERIALS EMPLOYED 3

• Trumpeter ref.5550 1/35

• Master Club ref. MTL35057

2-3. It is also advisable to plan your painting priorities after

each phase of the assembly process, because painting the kit
once it’s fully assembled is sheer madness.
4. The dials on the driver’s spot are decals and do have a
fantastic definition. This is one of the many details carefully
executed by the manufacturer which certainly contributes to
make this kit shine.

/ 50

48-57_Waffentrager Ardelt.indd 50 28/8/17 19:08

 PAINTING
Right from the start I fell for the cam- paintjob, but I could certainly go for a did this by airbrushing several light coats
ouflage scheme proposed by the manufac- dirty vehicle. 2848 In order to make the of AV Model Color’s 70947. You’ve read it
turer and it certainly looks a lot like what kit more appealing I deteriorated the paint right; I used the paint we normally apply
you can see in the few period pictures that on the floor of the combat chamber and with a paintbrush. When you dilute this
do survive. Obviously a vehicle with such made it quite dirty. paint with the brand’s own acrylic thinner
a short operational lifespan did not give 2492 The first step was to apply the you can airbrush this paint perfectly well.
me the chance of doing a well weathered red primer coat present on all vehicles. I

5. Before I tackled the base color I covered the whole kit with an airbrushed coat of “Nelly’s hairspray”. This will allow
me to make paint chips that will allow us to see the red primer underneath. The base color was a “personal” mixture
containing colors 71025 “Dark Yellow” and 230 “Light”. With this mixture I covered the entire kit in several highly
diluted (50%) coats using 71261 “Airbrush Thinner”. I also applied a few highlights by adding 71220 “Bright” to the base
color and did a few shadows as well by adding to the base color a little bit of 71215 “1st shadows”. All colors are from the
Air Vallejo range.
6. I painted the camouflage lines with AV Panzer Aces’ 312 “Leather Belt”. Paint was diluted with 60% 71261 “Airbrush
Thinner” and 40% paint. The airbrush compressor was set at 1 bar. Obviously when using well diluted paint you will have
to do several passes before paint can properly cover the surface.
51 /

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 7 8. I took advantage of the fact that 9
the camouflage paint was highly
diluted and still fresh (forming a
somewhat weak layer) in order to
make some paint chips and scratches
rubbing it with water and using a stiff
haired paintbrush.

7. In order to obtain the classic 9. As usual I made a few pinpoint

paint chips showing the red primer washes on all crevices and sunken
underneath I only had to soak a areas. This was done to create shadows
paintbrush with water and gently which enhanced the volumes of the kit
rub it against the surface of the kit. and also created some dirt. Titan’s sepia
You already know this technique but oil paint was used for this purpose.
the principle behind it is that water I diluted it with enamel thinner and
penetrates the pores of the base applied it with a thin paintbrush. I
coat, dissolves the hairspray coat diluted the paint enough for it to be
which contains the Dunkelgelb color able to cover the interested areas and
on top of it and when paint is left move smoothly over the kit’s surface.
unsupported it simply chips away. 11 11. The other way of doing stains with
acrylic washes is by doing splashes. The
superimposing of many micro drops of
10 paint, gives very good results that look
like dirt accumulations. When using
this method it is also very important to
unload the paint from your paintbrush.
I recommend running a number of
tests elsewhere first before attempting
anything with your kit.

12

10. I always combine washes with

drybrushing in order to enhance the
volumes of the kit. I worked on the
Dunkelgelb painted areas with AV
Model Color’s 917 “Beige”. The areas
with the brown camouflage paint
were treated with a mixture of 312
“Leather Belt” with 917 “Beige”.
Remember that this technique 12. I really enjoy painting diverse dirt stains on military vehicles. A rather effective
requires that you unload your and easy way to do this is using acrylic paint highly diluted in water with a ratio of
paintbrush by rubbing it against a 90% water and only 10% paint. This technique consists in patting repeatedly the
piece of cardboard before you rub it surface that requires staining using a paintbrush which has lost the pointedness
against the kit and use your brush of its tip. The paintbrush must previously have been wiped clean of most of
when it is unable to make any sort its paint using a piece of cloth or tissue. A failure to do this would result in the
of line. Then you repeatedly –and formation of paint puddles in the area. The repeated patting of the surface creates
smoothly- rub it where you want random staining and slightly blends its edges. Opacity can simply be obtained by
your highlights and the small paint accumulating several coats. AV’s washes are rather useful for this technique; I
particles remaining in the paintbrush employed 76521 “Oiled Earth”, 76514 “Dark Brown” and 76516 “Gray”. But we
will adhere to the kit. can do our own dilution with whatever acrylic color that we may need.
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 13 14 15

13. The same 917 “Beige” color

16
employed for drybrushing was
now used to make a few scratches
and small superficial paint chips
representing minor damages to the
painted surface, or those affecting
only the layer of dirt. In order to be
able to paint these properly paint
needs to be diluted a little, but not
excessively, because then we would
do the most unreal paint chips:
translucent ones. Paint for doing
paint chips should flow but must be
completely opaque.
14. In order to increase the richness
of the kit’s color palette and make
it a little warmer as well, I applied a
Titan oil paint Ochre Yellow filter. I
did it in a very controlled fashion on
very small areas. First I soaked the
part where I wanted to make the filter
and then I melted on the spot a small
amount of oil paint just as you can see
on the picture.
15. The additional armoring provided 17
by the spare track links on the front
of the vehicle make this area a
whole lot more appealing. The mud
accumulated on the lower areas, right
by the tractor wheel was made with
enamel thinner and different colored
pigments.
16. In order to recreate the dirt mixed
with sand which usually ends up on
the floor of the combat chamber I
resorted to oil paint. The process is
quite intuitive and I just made some
mixtures on a piece of cardboard
and melted these on the places that
just seemed right to me. I created 18
thus a great range of stains imitating 17. The collapsible foot rest on the back has thicker mud
different effects, different colored clusters made also with pigments and enamel thinner
dirt accumulations, dried up grease or mixed on the spot.
oil circlets mixed with sand or dirt, 18. The grease, oil and stains from other substances were
etc. The colors employed are Titan oil recreated with Titan Asphalt oil paint. This is quite a
paints: Sepia, Ocre Amarillo, Sombra versatile product because depending on how diluted it is
Tostada, Blanco, Amarillo Nápoles the effect created varies and the spills can look fresher or
Rojizo y Siena drier. If we also combine this paint with color pigments, the
range of possibilities it offers is indeed quite large.
53 /

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 Accessories are always desirable when it comes to creating points
of interest on the kit and help the viewer realize how large or
small the vehicle is. A couple of empty shells, the metallic and
wooden ammunition boxes contributed some additional color for
the rear. The wooden box was painted with AV PA’s 310 “Old
Wood” and then I applied on top of that a couple of oil paint
washes with Titan’s Burnt Umber.

/ 54

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 The gray anti-heating primer paint on the gun was recreated with AV Panzer Aces’ 306 “Dark Rubber”. The small dirt
stains are made with Sepia oil paint and Burnt Umber using the splashing technique.

COLOR CHART
VALLEJO ACRYLICS: Washes:
Panzer Aces: 76.521 Oiled Earth
70.312 Leather Belt 76.514 Dark Brown
70.306 Dark Rubber 76.516 Grey
70.310 Old Wood 71.261 Airbrush Thinner
Model Color: TITÁN OIL PAINT:
70.947 Dark Vermilion Sepia
70.917 Beige Yellow Ocrhe
Model Air: Bitumen
71.025 Dark Yellow Burnt Umber
230 Light White
220 Bright Naples Yellow Reddish
215 1ª Shadow Sienna

55 /

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 / 56

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 57 /

48-57_Waffentrager Ardelt.indd 57 28/8/17 19:11

 gallery 1945 King Tiger
by Mig Jimenez

8€
282

If you want to see the

complete article, you can
do it in the issue 282 of
EuroModelismo. Only
available in Spanish.
mo.com
www.euromodelis

29/6/17 19:57

1
1_Portada_EM282.indd

/ 16

58-59_Galeria.indd 16 31/8/17 17:59

 17 /

58-59_Galeria.indd 17 31/8/17 17:59

 Painting Tracks
Painting tracks for AFV’s has been a tracks belonging to AFVs which are not and a polished metal surface where the
discipline which has suffered a consider- supposed to have been left abandoned or appropriate friction allows it to happen,
able metamorphosis over the years. This unattended as the amount of rust would mirroring real life.
process has actually evolved alongside the otherwise imply. Back in the day, tracks In this installment of modelers’ school
weathering and dirt techniques employed were simply painted in a metallic hue we are going to showcase two similar
for vehicles. More “Artistic” currents using strictly following the indications on the looking finishes for tracks. Both will dis-
as their canvas the remaining surfaces of instruction sheets which surprisingly, still play dry sand and mud clusters on the
AFVs, have not however used the tracks say the same in our days. Later on, folks track links, creating a contrast with the
as their means of expression nonetheless. started applying shadows, and later on more recent and fresh mud adhered to the
Tracks have mainly been always given still, tracks were simply painted with rust tracks. The methods employed to achieve
more realistic paint treatments as a rule. colors. Today is far more common (and this however, are different. Our intentions
The only common “sin” committed with realistic) to see tracks with grayish hues, as usual are to set the springboard for you
these has been to apply excess rust on a range of sand colored hues and textures to jump on.

PAINTING TRACKS BY DAVID PÉREZ

1. The base coat for these tracks

1
was created with acrylics A.MIG-
044 “Chipping” and A.MIG-042
“Old Rust”. Mud was created with
a wash containing a mixture of
A.MIG-1001 “Afrika Korps Wash”
and A.MIG-3004 “Europe Earth”
pigment; the texture of this paste
was not too dense.
2. This mixture was used to cover
the tracks and this was done using
an old paintbrush trying to let the
paint soak thoroughly on each
track link.
3. Once the wash had dried, it
seemed like the tracks had a coat
2 of dry mud throughout.
4. I used a piece of sponge to
remove excess pigment from the
areas where I didn’t want it.
5. In order to make recent and
more humid looking mud, I used
A.MIG-1703 “Moist Ground” and
again some A.MIG-3004 “Europe
Earth” pigment. I mixed both
products and obtained a rather
dense paste which was applied
with a paintbrush on some areas of
the tracks.

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60-63_Aula.indd 60 28/8/17 19:08

 3 4

5 6

6. Again, using a piece of sponge, I applied some

7
texture to this paste and removed it from the areas
where I didn’t want it.
7. Finally, using a cotton swab I rubbed some A.MIG-
3009 “Gun Metal” pigment along the edges of the
track links and also on the internal hooks of the
tracks.

61 /

60-63_Aula.indd 61 28/8/17 19:09

 PAINTING TRACKS BY MICHEL PÉREZ

8. The base coat for these tracks

8
was an airbrushed mixture of
Lifecolor’s dark brown and UA’s
205 “Schokoladen Braun”. Paint
was diluted using 10% of the
brand’s own thinner spraying paint
with a 1.5 bar air pressure; it is
advisable to spray and allow each
coat to dry before you go back to
the same spot. This is achieved by
blowing just air with your airbrush.

9. Once the base coat was thoroughly dry I recreated the sand clusters and dirt. I began to do this by randomly
applying light sand colored paint with an old and well-worn paintbrush straight from the pot. The color
employed belongs to a flesh color set, but was perfect for recreating the dry mud effect I had in mind. It is also a
Lifecolor paint ref. UA709 “Flesh 1st base”.

10

10. I repeated the operation with a slightly darker hue, UA 710 “Flesh 2nd base”. I tried again to distribute this
color randomly trying not to fill all crevices and not have it cover the previous color employed.

11

11. The last thing I did was to apply a third sand colored hue, which was a whole lot lighter, in order to use it to
recreate dust. I applied it pretty much like the previous colors. The color employed was UA 706 “Dust Type 2”.

12. The next step is crucial. We’ll try to “get back” that metallic grayish
12
hue, especially on the areas that stand out more, leaving the sand hues
only on the crevices of the tracks. This was done by employing the
drybrush technique using AV Panzer Aces 306 acrylic “Dark Rubber”.
Paint is used straight from the pot. The paintbrush is rubbed against
a piece of cardboard or cloth until you are unable to do a straight or
continuous line with it. Then you can gently rub it against the features
that stand out of the tracks.
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60-63_Aula.indd 62 28/8/17 19:09

 13

13. Once we have our predominant colors, we’ll need a little texture. I obtained it with a combination of
enamels and pigments. In the first place I applied small amounts of A.MIG 1750 “Dry Earth” in a random fashion.
This product is enamel manufactured for creating mud splashes and it is perfect for that purpose because it has a
dense paste consistency.

14

14. When the product was still wet, I applied

pigments that adhered to the enamel surface and
gave me the texture that I was looking for. The
pigments used are not any specific product; they
are an approximate mixture I made up.

15

16 17 15 to 17. I finished the job by using

again the drybrush technique in
order to get the polished metal
effect where the track links suffer
friction. The color employed was
AV’s Model Color 863. This time
the paintbrush can have a little
more paint than what we had in
the previous drybrushing session.

63 /

60-63_Aula.indd 63 28/8/17 19:10

 Editorial Management
Rodrigo Hernández Cabos
J. David Hernández Chacón
Editor in Chief
Michel Pérez Blasco
Have collaborated in this issue
Armour Modelling Magazine David Pérez, José Brito,
Kreangkrai Paojinda, Xavier Ruíz,
Michel Pérez, Óscar Ebrí

EDITORIAL
Photographers
Rodrigo Hernández Cabos
Illustrations
Contests or no Contests Rodrigo Hernández Cabos
Every time a contest is held we will read online and even in the flesh while the contest
Lay Out
still goes on (how curious) the naysayers to these events. They are generally conspiracy
KOMMAD S.L.
theory adherents: all has been rigged; friendships are all that matters; and there is nothing but
cheating involved. For these people contests are no good, and these only exist to satisfy the Printed by
vanity of modelers. It seems that pure modelers –the good ones- think that the real informa- Artes Gráficas Dharma
tion and experiences are only traded in private meetings with no competitions at all involved. Scanning & filmsetting
Competitions are only bad news, and mean hurried model kits and a decreasing quality for ACCIÓN PRESS, S.A.
the models in general. How interesting. The facts however indicate that more than 95% of J. David Hernández Chacón
the total contest entries are for competition and not for exhibit purposes. I gather from those
Computer Graphics
numbers that modelers just might enjoy the competition and most modelers like to compete
J. David Hernández Chacón
and not everyone gets frustrated, or angry against the jury. If that were the case, instead of
having an increasing number of contests worldwide, the opposite would be true. Editorial and Technical Staff,
After a bunch of years in this hobby and many, many contests behind me, I still think Administration and Advertising
that the overall level of these has increased very much, and prizes are more often than not ACCIÓN PRESS, S.A.
well awarded. I think that people learn a lot from seeing their own kits along with many other c/Ezequiel Solana, 16
kits and this exchange and the talks that do follow with every other model kit in plain sight 28017 Madrid
are very fruitful. It is also true that this could happen as well without having contests, but Tel.: +34 913 675 708
the facts indicate that people simply enjoy contests -and the competition as well-. This also +34 914 086 135
implies that sometimes all of us have at some point in time been less than satisfied with the Fax: +34 914 085 841
outcome of a given contest. accionpress@euromodelismo.com
Fortunately, most people just get over it, even if a few folks simply don’t. Those few folks Suscripciones
are prone to become contest haters. Granted; even sometimes these people are right about Tel.: +34 913 675 708
a few things. Sometimes, the organizers –even when well experienced- do make mistakes
that justify the arguments of contest haters. This happens for instance when judges are Published by
designated, simply because they belong to a “friendly” association, or simply because this is ACCIÓN PRESS, S.A.
fashionable, or because so and so is a friend of a friend of mine, or because he or she works ISSN: 1886-4457
in a given magazine… This also happens when special prizes are a part of the main contest (a
prize to the best pink AFV from the Republic of San Marino…) and these are given by com- The reproduction of the images
mercial entities with… a modeler’s criteria? Not at all, the criteria here will always be purely and texts is prohibited, using any
commercial… current or future technical medium
And then we’ll see things like judges giving a prize to works “made with good intentions” without written consent of the
even if the actual results leave a lot to be desired. There are also judges who demand more
author. ACCION PRESS, S.A.
from certain people because they consider them to be highly experienced modelers (I’ve
does not necessarily support its
heard this straight from the mouth of a judge), which would be something like putting the
collaborators’ opinions.
basketball hoop a foot higher simply because a given player is better than others. There are
also judges who avoid awarding prizes to works which are not going to be featured in their
magazines, or who dump kits just because the OD color isn’t dark enough to be correct -in
their own judgement, that is-. When there is thematic prize, clearly mediocre kits are some-
times awarded even if the kits are quite shoddy even by the standards of the lesser talented
modelers and when this happens, future contestants are scared away from future contest
editions.
Fortunately these things happen marginally and most of us dismiss all this with humor
and a couple of days later hardly anybody remembers it. Except the contest haters.
And this is precisely what we need to avoid, of course. We have to try to name the best
judges, the most capable ones, the most expert and independent, with clear and objective
criteria. And although it is true that a mediocre modeler can be a good judge, there are more
possibilities to find this in an expert modeler. We also have to establish a difference between
commercial awards and thematic awards under the umbrella of an organization that follows
www.euromodelismo.com
the same criteria standards for all categories.
www.facebook.com/PanzerAces.
So, a big yes to contests, but these need to be held under the most favorable conditions
for all of us to enjoy, and to do so without giving contest haters reasons to pester us. Magazine?fref=ts

Editorial_64.indd 1 28/8/17 19:09

Interior Contraportada.indd 1 29/8/17 9:55
 LANDSCAPES
LANDS 103
Stones

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Palm Trun k
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LANDS 3002
Mould Bricks 3x7 12€
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LANDS 105
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The latests “LANDSCAPES IN DETAIL” products have all been created as the need
arose when we made the dioramas featured in this book series and are now offered
for sale so all modelers can use all these new products on their own projects.
NEWS

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Anuncio_Productos_Landcapes2.indd 1 31/8/17 11:41