instructables

Easy Box Joint Jig | Quick Box Joints in Your Table Saw

by travis.muszynski

table saw. I'll show you how to DIY and the make box
joints. I'll cover making the slides for the miter slots,
making the base, using CA glue and screw to attach the
//www.youtube.com/embed/DXFqpuxswnQ
base, making the frame, attaching the fence, creating an
indexing pin and waxing the slides and base.

Pleas SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel for more great

Step 1: Step 1: Cut Slides to Size

Make the slide out of a hard wear resistant wood. Cut to t without slop and be just proud of the saw table.

Easy Box Joint Jig | Quick Box Joints in Your Table Saw: Page 1
Step 2: Step 2: Cut Base to Size

I used 1/2" birch plywood cut to 12"x16". You could also use 3/4" or make a di erence size for your needs.

Step 3: Step 3: Attach Slides to Base

Use CA glue and accelerator to glue the slide on. Then remove from the saw and predrill and countersink holes and
screw into place.

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Step 4: Step 4: Attach Frame

I used a 1x2 for the three frame sides. I glued and brad nailed them into place. Cut the fence a little long but do not
permanently attach it yet.

Step 5: Step 5: Install Dado Set

Remove the blade and install a dado set.

Step 6: Step 6: Temporarily Install the Fence

Screw down the fence so you can cut the indexing pin slot.

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Step 7: Step 7: Cut Dado Slot

The slot width will be how wide your nished joints are. The depth of the slot should be a little less than the thickness of
the wood you will use. I use a 1/2" dado for 3/4" thick wood.

Step 8: Step 8: Cut and Install Indexing Pin

Remove the fence. Now cut indexing pin material to t tight in the slot in the fence. I used oak for wear resistance.

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Step 9: Step9: Permanently Install the Fence

Now install the fence o set from the blade by that distance as the width of the indexing pin. You can use some of your
extra indexing pin material to do this. Now permanently glue and screw the fence in place while the slides are still in the
miter slots so it doesn't move.

Step 10: Step 10: Wax the Slides and Base

Now wax the slides and base to allow the jig to move smoothly on the table.

Step 11: Step 11: Test!

Test using a scrap piece. Start with rst piece butted up against the indexing pin and work your way over. Not ip that
piece over and put it back over the indexing pin as a reference for the mating piece. Work your way across the mating
piece until its complete. Test the joint. If it ts properly, you can glue it together to make it permanent.

Easy Box Joint Jig | Quick Box Joints in Your Table Saw: Page 5
Nice jig! To my favorites, for the special day when a table saw will be approachable. Thank you.

Awesome! Be sure to check out my YouTube channel as as well. You may find some other things
you like.

https://youtube.com/c/HowIDoThingsDIY
Would anyone be willing tell me how they found this instructable today? I got like 16k views and
I'm trying to find out why. Was it shared somewhere?
Today, 4/25, Instructables posted on Facebook.

https://www.facebook.com/instructables/posts/10159...
I'm stalking you, lol. But I wonder sometimes too. I think at times if you get Featured and there
isn't a lot of action on woodworking and/or the specific workshop category, you might stay near
the top of the category list for a while, sometimes bringing in more views.
Thanks for the stalking! I found out that I've had two Instructables at the very top of the
newsletter! My YouTube Channel is blowing up!

https://www.youtube.com/c/HowIDoThingsDIY
That's what I need. I guess I just need to write better instructables and take better pictures like
you have.
Yes, and I think having links to YouTube help as well.

Same here, newsletter.

Email from instructables

Interesting! Thank you!

Same for me, the instructables Email.

Thanks guys, that's good to know!

So nice...

I think your lead-off picture is photoshopped. It just doesn't look like an image of real pieces of
wood that you cut with these instructions. The grain lines are wrong. Plus it's obvious that the
dimensions of the slots in the two pieces of wood have to be different.

Specifically, the grain line on the "top" of the left side piece of wood should stop when it meets
the right side piece of wood, but it comes all the way to the end.

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Nah, his name is Travis, not Trump!
His cuts are not sized for the width of the stock. If you watch the video, you can see where he left
a 'sliver' after cutting the last notch(?) on the first piece and then a teeny 'notch' on the
corresponding (next) piece.
And THAT is why you see the continuance of the grain of the 'left' piece. Ideally, you size the
fingers such that they fit 'evenly' across the stock. Or, if not, the 'last' notch is about a half to two
thirds the width of the other first notch on the first piece such that the first finger on the mating
piece is the same (narrower) size and does not appear "photosshopped" v.

Wood is wonderfully fluid. Sizes in my scrap pile really vary especially when all I want to do is a
set up. Making a video isn’t necessarily a linear process and if you do a retake you might have to
use different wood.
I like the use of crazy glue to help align the rails.
Excellent instructions. I will make mine bigger for bee hive boxes
Good luck with your yours!

In the video, the last cut leaves a very thin finger and that's what you're seeing on the top. It
creates an optical illusion, but I believe the photo is the same sample he created in his video.
Ok, I'm convinced - honestly all it took for me to believe it was for him to actually say it was real. I
guess I can see the end of that little sliver, but wow - I'm actually fairly amazed that didn't break
off. That's pretty much the thinnest such thing I've ever seen in an actual joint. It's almost as
though it's a piece of veneer sticking out there.

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Looks like the indexing pin is off a heavy 32nd" that created the top 'finger' in the left piece as
well as a 1/32 deep grove in the right piece. My students do that all the time (they have to
perform the set-up on the jig). A quick pass through the drum sander and, as they say: "It's all
good , Mr T."

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 Also, I'd be happy to take other picture of the same joint. It has transparent white stain on it now.

Haha. That's very strange. I can assure you that is the first and only joint I have cut so far and
was the one I cut in the video. I'm not sure why it looks that way. I may have flipped the pieces
around because they are just scrap and the backsides don't look good.
Agreed

Which Dewalt table saw is that? I have the portable contractor version and I didn't think they took
DADO blades.
Its the 10" DWE7491RS. Here's a link to in on Amazon.
https://amzn.to/3rAieKf
Thanks, I've got the DW745, which won't take a dado

The Freud Box Joint Cutter set SBOX8 works on the DW745 it has 2 modes: 1/4 and 3/8 . I have
one set and it works very well on my DW745 ;)

I have that set and recommend it. Clean flat bottom cuts.
Best to purchase a saw that takes ZERO CLEARANCE INSERTS - IMHO
Thanks for telling us about your DW745 experience with Freud's 8" Box Joint Cutter Set.

we didn't had any trouble with it. But there are a lot of little variations in the DW745 models... may
be we have the one that fits well with these blade. For the safety, It is always dangerous, but I find
the router more dangerous. Maybe a question of habitude.
I have seen reviews that say it barely fits the arbor and I get so scared when it comes to a blade
at that speed, lol.
Thanks for the added information!

Ah, got ya. Well, I love my saw and I highly recommend it. The dado blade compatibility was one
of my main requirements. That and dual dust collection ports.
Appreciate it. I'm not in the market for another table saw now, so I may have to work up
something with 1/8 box joints (width of the blade) or rig something up on my router.
Obviously it would be more work, but there are a number of videos on making DADO cuts with a
standard blade.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQ0_my3ZGmg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_1QT1idwT4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOTqqSEtvng
Of course! I also have a flat kerf blade I use when I just need to either make a narrow dado or
one or two.
I've seen some good tutorials on making box joint jigs with a router as well.

A much safer option is to use a router table. Dado saws are illegal in UK workshops. UK saws are
deliberately made with a shaft that's not long enough for a dado set.
I am the not-so-proud owner of a fine scar as a direct result of not using a riving blade on my
saw. Use a router!

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I'd like to learn more about why the Brits find the dado set so much more dangerous? Seems to
me a properly used dado-set is no more or less dangerous than a single blade? And there are
plenty of ways to get into big trouble with a router bit as well.
I am debating building my own router jig. I have seen some at Rockler and Woodcraft, but they
are all pretty expensive. I have a little fear on the Feud unit as people say it barely fits on the
arbor from the reviews.
Wow! Thank you for the safety disclaimer. I will definantly take extra caution!

I thought this was awesome. My dad was a contractor and my family built at least 7 or 8 houses,
but I haven’t done much “fine carpentry” as my dad used to say. That said, I’ve never even used
a dado blade because of more of a framing background. So I didn’t even think this was possible,
and you’ve opened my mind and for that, and the quality of instruction and the video, I’m giving
you a 10/10. Well done my friend.
Thanks! I really enjoyed making this jig. I hope to make a lot more. Subscribe to my YouTube
channel if you want to see more!
What do you use on your drill to make the counter ? sink holes

You can buy countersink bits pretty cheap at any hardware store. They're usually marked for the
size of the screw head.
Thx

Yes, Harbor Freight has very affordable countersink options.

Thx

I used a separate count sink bit, but I plan to order something like this link soon to save time and
increase the quality of the build.
https://amzn.to/2Q6JRwp

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