Ropajes - Sewing & Fashion Design Courses

Carlos J. Lebrón Cajigas Received: August 19, 2013

University of Puerto Rico, Río Piedras Accepted: December 2, 2013

ABSTRACT
Vilma Martínez is an entrepreneur from Puerto Rico that started a sewing school that kept growing and expanding
into related courses and businesses. Those businesses reach several industries such as education, fashion, and
entertainment. Besides having to deal with the management of the marketing, operations, human resources, and
other functions, she also had to face problems that are particular to family businesses and to new businesses. Even
though the economic environment in PR and the industry environment were very difficult, there were also social and
demographic factors that helped her sewing school segment to experience significant growth. The growth of the
sewing school was also due to the advertising, pricing, and other marketing activities implemented and that kept
evolving over time from constant experimentation. Many strategic issues are presented, including relocation, larger
facilities, accreditation, and the hiring of non-family employees.

KEYWORDS: entrepreneurship, business management, strategic management, marketing, industry analysis,

family business

RESUMEN
Vilma Martínez es una empresaria que comenzó una escuela de costura que expandió sus cursos y diversificó a
negocios relacionados en Puerto Rico. Sus negocios envuelven industrias tales como educación, moda, y
entretenimiento. Además de tener que manejar funciones como mercadeo, operaciones, y recursos humanos,
también tuvo que enfrentar problemas que son particulares a negocios de familia y al emprendimiento de negocios
nuevos. Aunque el ambiente económico de PR e industria fueron difíciles, a su escuela le ayudaron a crecer ciertos
factores sociales y demográficos. El crecimiento de su escuela de costura también se debió a anuncios, precios, y
otras actividades de mercadeo implementadas basadas de su experimentación constante. Se presentan varios
problemas estratégicos tales como: relocalización, local más espacioso, acreditación, y contratación de empleados
fuera de su familia.

PALABRAS CLAVES: emprendimiento, manejo de negocios, gerencia estratégica, análisis de industria,

negocio de familia.

PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014
 fter seven years of struggles and hard also near a free municipal parking area, but that

A work Vilma Martínez Sewing School

Business is beginning to show signs of
success in their school. This has been with
the help of Vilma’s husband and her three
parking is expected to be closed down soon.

Historical Background and Economic Situation

daughters. Now she is pondering how to make the A large percentage of Puerto Rican women
business prosper under the current difficult before the 1970’s had a sewing machine and
competitive and economic conditions. Among the learned how to sew at no cost (from a family
many important decisions to be made, she is now member, friend, or in school or vocational school).
thinking of whether to relocate the school to larger Nowadays, sewing classes are seldom free, but
and better facilities or whether to seek sewing machines are relatively inexpensive (many
accreditation that allows students to receive advanced models can be found for less than $250).
government financial assistance. Before the 1970s buying a sewing machine was a
major purchase relative to their incomes and was
The business is located on a second floor in frequently purchased from the store in installments
the heart of the suburb of Río Piedras, Puerto Rico. (a very small fraction of the population had credit
Although this area was a cards to finance purchases and very
major center of economic During the mid to late 70’s the few stores accepted credit cards).
activity several decades The textile industry during those
ago, it has declined federal minimum wage law began times was strong and there were
significantly as attractive to apply to PR and many shops selling a large variety
modern malls and of fabrics. Río Piedras
internationalization increased.
shopping centers with distinguished itself for having
ample parking have many of those shops. There were
developed around the island. Many businesses in also many factories that hired many Puerto Rican
Río Piedras have failed or disappeared and left women to sew different kinds of garments. Sewing
their facilities and buildings empty and without was a major source of employment for females in
maintenance. This has attracted homeless people Puerto Rico.
and crime, which have affected those businesses.
Almost all businesses in this area do not have their During the mid to late 70’s the federal
own parking lot, but there are some parking meters minimum wage law began to apply to PR and
and several small private parking lots. The central internationalization increased. For some time, the
and municipal governments and the business better pay brought by the higher minimum wages
community are trying several initiatives to bolster helped to improve the living conditions of those
the economic activity in the Río Piedras area. This factory workers, but it eventually ended up having
includes a major underground train station (“Tren the opposite result as many factories of the “needle
Urbano”) that helps bring in shoppers from other industry” closed or moved to cheaper countries.
neighboring areas. Internationalization also resulted in much cheaper
imports, including clothing, up to the point that it
As a result of the deteriorating conditions of was not worthwhile for most people to make their
the commercial area of Río Piedras, rents have own clothing, or for their families, or even to sell
become more affordable over the years, especially to others.
after the financial and housing bust of late 2008.
This has helped Vilma obtain an affordable rent The variety and quality of imports sold in
($2,000/month, 3,000 Square feet) in one of the retail stores has kept improving (as prices have
best locations in the heart of Río Piedras within continued a downward trend) and very few Puerto
walking distance of the underground train station, Rican families have continued the tradition of
the town square church, and a police station. It is teaching their children basic sewing skills. At

PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014 16
present, among the general population in Puerto they want to learn to sew because the clothing sold
Rico, there is a lack of generalized knowledge of in stores does not fit them well for their particular
sewing skills and techniques. As a result, fashion body shape. This is a very common situation for
and design schools have been able to capitalize and many Hispanic females which are more likely to
exploit this niche market and the number of have a fuller and curvier body.
competitors has been increasing.
Origin of the business and its business
The worldwide economic slowdown is environment
affecting Puerto Rico which has had limited
economic progress for a few years (GDP growth Vilma Martínez was born in PR. From a very
has been negative every year from 2007 to 2010). young age she learned to make dresses for her
The unemployment rate has usually fluctuated dolls. Sewing was a common family activity,
between 10% and 17%. A decrease in the especially for her grandmother. Her interest in
unemployment rate seems unlikely because design and fashion continued to grow over the
businesses keep leaving the U.S., including Puerto years. As a young adult, while studying Drama at
Rico, to relocate to countries with more favorable the University of Puerto Rico, her talent in the
economic incentives, lower manufacturing costs, design and making of complex dresses and
and more favorable labor laws. Purchasing power garments for theater plays became noticeable to
in the island is almost a third of that in the U.S. others. Several years later, she went to Boston to
mainland (Purchasing Power Parity GDP per capita study fashion design and after a few years, she
according to the latest figures available in the CIA returned to PR (Santiago, 2010).
World Factbook; 2011: $48,100 US, 2010:
$16,300 PR). Therefore, it is expected that in Given the nature of the trade and the economic
Puerto Rico there will be little disposable money conditions on the island, diversification into related
available for things such as sewing classes or non- areas became almost a necessity. She created a
necessities. corporation under which her different types of
businesses operated:

Fashion and Other Motivators 1) garments for theater or movie productions

2) design and confection of dresses for weddings,
Contests related to beauty or fashion, such as proms, and special events
Miss Puerto Rico and Miss Universe, are very 3) sewing classes and design school
popular in PR (PR has won 5 Miss Universe
contests). Also, local media gives substantial Due to the scarcity of local theaters and movie
exposure to new Puerto Rican fashion designers. A productions and their shrinking budgets, Vilma
large segment of females in PR have such an was forced to change the business strategy.
interest in beauty and fashion that they are willing Currently, she prepares and rents the dresses and
to sacrifice other expenditures (or get into debt) to garments required for the production. This allows
improve their overall appearance. However, they Vilma to have an increasing inventory that can be
have also felt the effects of the economic situation reused and offered to her clients in the future or
and this in turn is having a negative effect in the that could be sold under better economic
business of Puerto Rican fashion designers. In conditions.
order to compensate for the lost income, several
local fashion designers started teaching sewing and The demand for wedding dresses has also been
fashion design. Although competition in the affected by economic and social forces, such as
fashion related education is increasing, there are people living together or not having expensive
segments of the population with an interest to learn wedding celebrations. Among brides, a smaller
sewing as a hobby, entertainment, or therapy. Or, percent of them order a custom design dress that

17 PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014
will also be kept as a memory of the occasion. CADAC Courses
Moreover, besides choosing more economical
dresses, the market has shifted significantly to The Division of Fashion Design and related
rentals at bridal stores. Women wanting to dress courses of Ropajes started in 2004 and was named
more elegantly with a unique dress for a special Centro de las Artes del Diseño y Alta Costura
event are the market for boutiques and fashion (CADAC) which translates to Center of Art Design
designers. Once again, economic forces have kept and High Fashion. It offers basic, intermediate,
this market small and without any significant and advanced sewing courses. It also offers
growth. Except for high school proms, it appears swimsuit design, pattern design, fashion
that there are fewer company Christmas parties, drawing/illustration, and interior decoration.
social gatherings, “quinceañeros” (equivalent to Courses generally consist of 8 to 12 (3-hour)
sweet sixteen celebrations), or other special weekly classes and prices between $325 to $395
celebrations. All those trends have been (depending on the course and duration). Many of
devastating, even for top fashion designers in their students select a plan where they make a
Puerto Rico. down payment and then pay a fee (for example
$30) for each class they attend (no payment for
A Family Run Business classes not attended). The total cost of the course
this way is higher (for example $440, instead of
Managing those businesses is a lot of work $395 cash), but it is easier to pay for the students.
and requires approximately 60 hours per week of This payment plan must be evaluated because it
work. Since the businesses have grown, Vilma is will get more students to register but the student
assisted by two of her daughters (Azania and attrition (percentage of students who do not
Namibia) and her husband. She is also assisted by complete the course) is higher (about 1/3
some of her students in some classes and activities. eventually stop attending the course).
So far, there are no formal outside employees.
Azania, one of her daughters, is in charge of the The marketing of Ropajes tends to focus in
collections, record keeping, and accounting. She CADAC courses. Vilma participates regularly in
just obtained a degree in interior design and began activities promoting the Río Piedras area where she
to teach a course (Interior Design) along with the frequently offers a free (no charge) a class where
other courses taught by Vilma. Namibia, her other people learn basic sewing skills and sew a simple
daughter, studied fashion design in the US and item (such as a small hand bag). Another
helps Vilma teach the additional sections that have periodical major activity are the fashion shows that
been added recently due to increased demand. She she organizes to show student creations. This
is also in charge of most of the computer work, makes Ropajes and CADAC known to the family
technology, and marketing for the school. Namibia and friends of the participating students and helps
is actively involved in several activities recruit new students. They place flyers periodically
independently of her mother. She seems to be the in many fabric stores and other businesses. She has
most ambitious of the daughters and participates been very active in public relations and has been
actively in fashion activities and contests in and able to obtain major exposure in the major
outside of Puerto Rico. She is becoming one of the newspaper in PR (El Nuevo Día) with multi-page
new crops of fashion designers in Puerto Rico, but articles about her business, herself, or her daughter.
she also aspires to be known in the US and She has experimented with TV show appearances
internationally. Vilma’s husband, besides helping (such as major morning shows targeted for
her with handyman work or as needed, has a small females) where she teaches how to make some
space in the facilities for his business where he items. That gives her the opportunity to mention
offers massage services occasionally. her classes to the audience which gives her more
credibility while creating brand awareness and
costs substantially less than placing regular 30

PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014 18
second TV ads (where professional TV ad might not fit well. Moreover, just by looking at a
production costs are usually over $10,000, website picture it is nearly impossible to know how
especially if a major artist or personality must be the fabric of the garment will actually look, feel,
hired to appear in the ad, and each 30 second TV smell, pull, stretch, or wrinkle.
ad placement has an additional cost of about $700
or more). In order to obtain such TV exposure, There are an increasing number of alternatives
producers expect something in exchange for their for those wanting to learn how to sew in PR. The
audience such as offering useful information and best known sewing schools are Carlota Alfaro,
the opportunity to win one free course (adding the Lisa Thon (in some official documents it is
winning person to a course costs virtually nothing alternatively spelled as Liza Thon), and the
to Vilma). Escuela de Artes Plásticas all of which are targeted
to students interested in fashion design and not as a
They keep modernizing their web site hobby. The Escuela de Artes Plásticas and EDP
(www.ropajes.com) and maintain their Facebook College offer accredited degrees where their
page updated. Besides advertising Ropajes and the students can apply for federal financial aid.
CADAC courses, both internet sites help provide Obtaining accreditation that allows conferring
information about news, events, and student professional degrees generally requires that their
creations with many pictures. They also allow students take additional courses (such as History,
showing that some of their students are also Math, etc.) and also requires substantial investment
winning important fashion awards or continuing in facilities and personnel. The sewing courses
their education in top US or international fashion offered by the continuing education program of the
design universities. University of Puerto Rico are also well known and
are more targeted for those wanting to learn for
Thoughts about the Future entertainment. UPR sewing related courses of the
UPR continuing education program do not lead to
Among the many issues that Vilma is a professional degree and their students (which are
pondering is whether to relocate the school and most from the general population) do not normally
seek accreditation, also how to plan future family receive federal financial aid. However, the UPR is
involvement in the business because her daughters going through a severe economic crisis that will
are young and might want to follow other paths, require restructurings that might result in the
especially after having their own families. It is not elimination of many of the continuing education
clear whether the growth she has experienced for courses.
the sewing classes will stop or even decline in the An increasing number of locally known
future. This is mostly likely due to increased fashion designers supplement their income
competition, less availability of fabrics and fabric teaching sewing and fashion design. Many of them
stores in PR, lower prices for clothing due to operate from their own homes with a very low cost
imports and automation, and more stores having structure that requires minimal additional fixed
merchandise better targeted to Hispanic body costs and no additional rent expenses. Since
measurements. The internet does not appear to be a variable costs are very low in the education
major threat in the immediate future. Most people business, under this setup most of the revenue
like to learn sewing with a real person next to received from students paying to learn how to sew
them, especially beginners. However, those that becomes a direct profit. Since the investment
already have a basic knowledge of sewing skills required to start teaching sewing skills is also
find it less difficult to learn more from videos and relatively low, it also attracts competition from
material found for free in the internet. Internet people with substantial sewing experience that are
shoppers are more interested in standardized neither fashion designers nor well known in the
products such as books, DVDs, computers, and business. All this results in many more alternatives
other electronics, than purchasing clothing that for people to learn sewing, most of them at lower

19 PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014
prices, and most of them geared to a market more the designer. The least important of the
interested in sewing as a hobby than in the variables was the country of origin.
professional or fashion design side. The key to
profits in this business requires the difficult task of  When evaluating alternative places where
attracting many students and getting them to pay to take sewing classes the top three
fees near those charged by the better known considerations were convenient hours,
sewing schools (over $11/hour for courses that safety of area surrounding the location, and
tend to range from 30 to 54 hours). Overall, the parking availability. The next two
business of teaching sewing and sewing related considerations were having modern
courses is attractive to many because with low equipment and having a low price for the
fixed and variable costs, the worst that can happen course. Considerations of medium
is operating at a break-even level, i.e. having no importance were: the availability of a
profits (or very little loss). financing or payment plan, whether the
course includes the materials, whether the
Since more than 80% of those interested in facilities have air conditioner, and whether
learning how to sew want to learn it as a hobby or the instructor has an advanced degree in
entertainment, a much broader type of competition fashion design. Considerations of lesser
must be considered. This can include other types importance were: whether the courses
of classes or activities related to: dancing, cooking, qualify for federal financial aid, whether
computers, interior decoration, musical instruments they help graduates obtain employment or
(learning to play), beadwork, jewelry making, how to set up a business, whether graduates
aerobics, embroidery, knitting, art, painting, obtained a fashion design certificate,
ceramic, woodworking, face make-up, scuba acceptance of credit cards, has modern
diving, walking, sports (Golf, tennis, baseball, facilities, availability of public
basketball, football, etc.), and many others. transportation, provides the necessary
Activities (or their classes) that are perceived as background to continue university studies,
very entertaining can be strong indirect and whether the course ends with a
competitors, especially if they are free or at a low competition or fashion show by the
cost. students showing their creations. The least
important considerations were:
Marketing Research personalized classes (1 instructor per
student), courses leads to a Bachelor or
To obtain a better understanding of the Associate degree, has child care facilities,
population in the Puerto Rico metropolitan area and offers courses online.
regarding sewing and related topics, Vilma was
able to engage the services of a professor from the  The most important motivator to take
School of Business Administration of the sewing classes is entertainment. Second is
University of PR to conduct several marketing to have clothes custom to their particular
research studies focused on consumer behavior. shape or measures. Of relatively low
Some of the findings from the research studies importance was to set up a business or
were the following: make additional money. The least
important motivator was the desire to
 The most important variable when deciding become a fashion designer. The average
which clothes to buy is price, followed by importance rating for each motivator is
the material of the fabric, and the design or shown on Table 1 (scale from 0=Not
prints in the fabric. The other variable was important to 10=Very important).
whether it is currently in fashion. Much
less important variables were the brand or

PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014 20
 frequently and almost half of households
Tabal 1. Motivators to take sewing classes
have a dog. To put in context the interest in
average
taking sewing classes, Table 2 shows the
importance
average interest in taking different types of
rating
classes (scale from 0=No Interest to
Entertainment or hobby 6.70
10=Very Interested).
To make clothes that fit my shape/measures 6.10
For business (to earn additional money) 4.60
Industry
Would like to be a fashion designer 3.30
Information or statistics about the educational
 The top types of garments that people side of the sewing industry is virtually non-
wanted to learn to sew were: Pants, female existent. The main competitors in the industry try
dresses, shirts, and skirts. This was to keep information secret and therefore there is no
followed by cushions, swimsuits, drapes or reliable student or revenue growth statistics. There
curtains, baby clothes, and fabric handbags. is also no reliable financial information or
complete financial statements available for
 The most convenient day of the week to analytical purposes. Even though the best known
take classes was Saturday. This was competitors in the industry are corporations and
followed by Tuesdays and Wednesdays. their financial records are available to the public,
The least convenient days to take sewing when examined, most showed what appeared to be
classes were Sundays and Fridays. unreliable data in a very aggregate form and
without any specific details or breakdowns.
 The website on which they spend the most Moreover, several years of data were missing and
time is Facebook. This was followed by no Income Statement information was provided
the ENDI.COM, which is a local online (See Appendix B). In situations like these, many
newspaper. consultants evaluate or perform Break-Even
analyses based on estimates of revenues, variable
costs, and fixed costs. Corporations with annual
 Other results: Knowledge of the English
gross revenues of less than 3 million dollars are not
language: 73% report that their knowledge
required to submit an audited balance sheet to the
of the English language is good or very
Puerto Rico State Department. The only audited
good, 6% do not know English. Almost
financial information in Appendix B was for
half of the adult population drinks coffee
Centro Moda -Liza Thon, but that does not
necessarily mean that their annual revenues were
Tabal 2. Average interest in taking different types of classes over $3 million dollars (USD).
Dancing 6.33
Cooking 5.79 Most of the sewing or fashion design schools
Computers 5.58
Start/Manage small business 5.42
offer at least two course terms per year with about
Interior Decoration 4.81 100 students per term (estimated since enrollment
English Language 4.52 figures are not published and are kept secret).
Music or to play an instrument 4.20 However, independent instructors have
Art, ceramic, sculpture 4.14
Massaging 4.06
substantially fewer students per term (for example,
> Sewing < 3.86 10 total students per term if they offer 2 courses
Make-up 3.76 per term with 5 students per course). The cost of
SCUBA diving 3.45 sewing or fashion design instructors is estimated to
Acting (theater plays) 3.25
Jewelry 3.24
be near $11 hour (in other words, an instructor
Tennis 2.35 hired for a 30 hour course would be paid $330 for
Golf 1.12 the course). Based on informal research of

21 PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014
commercial leases in the metro area (mostly from but she also has significant international exposure.
newspaper and internet listings) the rent cost is She is best known for her five step pattern and for
generally around $20 per square foot (annual). her mermaid cut dresses. She tends to attract
However, there is a significant variability (for students with strong interest in a fashion career.
example, Vilma Martínez’s rent per square foot Many of the best known fashion designers in PR
was $8.00) and rents are expected to continue to have been her students (Carlos Alberto, David
decrease over the next few years (mainly due to Antonio, Fernando Calletano, Raúl Cedeño, René
recessionary economic condition in PR). As an Cruz, Macho De Jesús, Lilliam Díaz, Eddie
example, a 2,400 square foot school is likely to pay Guerrero, Lillian Landrón, Angel López, Edgardo
near $4,000 monthly rent (2,400 Sq.Ft. x $20 Molini, Olga Prosper, Isa Quiñonez, Carlos Reyes,
Sq.Ft. / 12 months) or much lower, if there are Sonia Rivera, Harry Robles, Edwin Rosario, Lisa
inadequate parking facilities and it is not in a prime Thon, Jorge Zepenfield, Verona). Besides offering
location. short courses (about 54 hours each for about $660
plus a registration fee of $60, plus the cost of the
The electricity cost can be another significant reading materials), they also offer complete
monthly cost for many businesses in PR. The key vocational programs related to sewing and fashion
driver of the electricity expense in a sewing or design (such as 5 courses of 54 hours each) that are
fashion school is usually the air conditioning. accredited by Consejo General de Educación de
Monthly electricity expense for a typical school is PR. Students pay out of their own pocket since
about $700. It can be significantly more if there is no federal financial aid for the programs or
classrooms are large and the air conditioning unit courses they offer. The only required initial upfront
is on during all work hours for 6 days a week. cost for a course is the $60 registration fee and
Electricity expense can be substantially less if the then pay for each class attended (the total of
air conditioning unit is only turned on during class individual class payments is higher than if the
times. Many independent instructors use fans (not course is paid completely upfront). Student
a/c) in the area they use in their home to teach and, attrition is common, that is, the course might start
therefore, the electricity expense attributable to with 12 students and finish with 8. Courses are
their classes is very low (the classes increase their available in the fall, spring, and summer sessions.
home electricity costs by less than $20 per month). They offer courses about sewing, fashion design,
pattern design, swimwear design, wedding dresses,
Advertising costs for most sewing and fashion fashion drawing/illustration, tailoring, textiles,
design schools are usually low because they attract marketing, computers, home creations (cushions,
students through word of mouth, reputation, drapes, etc.), complements/accessories (hair
location, participation in sponsored activities, free ornaments, hats, earrings, chockers, ties, etc.),
publicity from fashion-related TV shows, and from manual creations (embroidery, knitting), make-up,
low cost (or free) internet websites. Another form photography, modeling, and several others. The
of advertising used frequently is flyers (which are minimum number of students per course is 8 and
also relatively inexpensive to produce and the maximum is 15. Each class is typically 3 hours
distribute). once a week during mornings, afternoons, or nights
(Sundays are closed). During the summer they also
Appendix D contains comparative tables of offer a summer camp for teenagers and children.
sample course pricing and offering for key industry The teaching facilities are in an air conditioned
competitors. building without parking in one of the decaying
areas of Santurce (another suburb of San Juan).
Carlota Alfaro College, Inc. – A very prestigious Although Carlota Alfaro still teaches some
organization in PR to learn about sewing and courses, most courses are now taught by her
fashion design. The school’s founder, Carlota assistant instructors. Instructors are usually paid a
Alfaro, is the best known fashion designer in PR, fixed amount per course. Word of mouth

PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014 22
marketing is very positive and strong, but she also Piedras). It is literally less than 5 minutes walking
has a website, Facebook, and participates in many distance from the Vilma Martínez school. Besides
fashion-related activities. The classrooms are offering sewing courses, they also offer some arts
equipped with the sewing machines, equipment, and crafts courses. The courses are a source of
and mannequins, but students must bring their revenue to the owner and also have the additional
textiles and supplies. benefit of helping to sell more store merchandise.
Low cost signs offering the courses posted outside
Centro Moda - Escuela de Diseño Liza Thon, of the store have been effective with their
Inc.- Lisa Thon is a top fashion designer in PR that customers and with the many passersby exposed to
also has international exposure. Her school also them. Their target customer is much more
has a top reputation in fashion design and many of interested in entertainment than is a professional
her students have continued their careers and have career in fashion design. The course instructors are
become well known fashion designers in PR. One subcontracted and changed if the store owner does
of the distinguishing aspects of her school is the not receive positive feedback from the students.
international student field trip to New York where Sewing instructors are lesser known fashion
students are exposed to key places and institutions designers and several of them have studied with
in the world of high fashion. Courses offered Carlota Alfaro. Sewing courses require a
include: sewing, Illustration, design, patterns, registration fee of $20 and each of the classes have
textiles, embroidery, history of fashion, drawing, a cost of $25 (generally 12 classes of 3 hours
planning and execution of fashion shows, and each). The classes are given near the back of the
others. The maximum number of students per store in full view of store customers. This raises
course is 12. They offer a set of courses leading to the curiosity of some shoppers in the store and
a fashion design certificate (each course has a many of them request information about the
registration fee of approximately $200, plus about classes.
$225 per month). For those not interested in the
complete fashion design program, they also offer Independent Instructors – There are many formal
independent short courses that are generally 6 and informal instructors with experience in the
weekly 3-hour classes for about $250. They have a industry. Some of them are lesser known fashion
website and a Facebook page plus a very positive designers or former students of Carlota Alfaro.
word of mouth due to their excellent work and to They tend to teach sewing from their own homes
the active participation in many major fashion- and this allows them to have a lower cost structure
related activities. Classrooms are equipped with all and prices. However, there are instructors wanting
the necessary equipment within a building located to have a more formal business who try to charge
in Rio Piedras on Muñoz Rivera Avenue, which is prices close to that of the better known
one of the main avenues on the metropolitan area. competitors. The turnover among independent
Although the building does not have parking instructors is substantial and few of them last in the
facilities, the neighborhood and streets surrounding industry for many years. Some of them leave the
it are relatively safe. Since classes are generally industry to pursue full time jobs or businesses with
offered Wednesdays and Saturdays, the unused a larger and steadier source of income.
space during other days of the week is used for
production. References

Miranda Textiles – This fabric retail store (about NOTE: The case was developed based on an extensive
3,000 square feet) diversified offering sewing number of personal and focus group interviews.
courses. The store is in an air conditioned first CIA, E.U. (2011). The World Factbook 2011. Central
floor with no parking but with very easy access to Intelligence Agency, Washington, DC.
shoppers in the street Paseo De Diego (one of the
streets with the heaviest pedestrian traffic in Río

23 PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014
List of countries by GDP (PPP) per capita. (2012, July 2). In 7. Should Vilma expect that her daughters will
Wikipedia, the Free Encyclopedia. Retrieved from stay with her family business or plan for an
http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=List_of_countr eventual split?
ies_by_GDP_(PPP)_per_capita&oldid=533918868 8. Should Vilma limit the growth of her sewing
school up to the courses that she (and
Santiago, Liz Sandra (2010). Vilma Martínez y el Patrón de
una Vida entre Telas, suplemento Por Dentro, El Nuevo daughters) can teach? Or, should she continue
Día, September 19, p1-16. seeking growth for the sewing school and deal
with future issues such as hiring non-family
Questions employees?
9. Should Vilma diversify (or seek growth) with
What would you recommend for Ropajes to prosper and other related businesses? If yes, which kinds of
have a better future? businesses? How about opening her own
boutique or a fabric store?
1. Do you expect that the market of people paying
for sewing classes will decrease, increase, or
stay about the same in the future? Why?

2. Which segment would be easier for Vilma to About the author

target: young females (which are more
Carlos J. Lebrón Cajigas
interested in fashion) or adult females (which
DrCL@yahoo.com
are more interested in the practical and
entertainment aspects)? Should she pursue both Dr. Lebrón is an Associate Professor in the Management
of those markets or focus in only one of them? Department of the School of Business of the University of
Puerto Rico (Río Piedras campus). He has taught graduate
3. Should the school be moved? Why? and undergraduate business courses in several universities
including City University of Nework (Baruch College) and
4. Should the school seek accreditation? Why? the State University System of Florida (Florida Atlantic
University in Boca Raton). His previous business experience
5. What pricing or financing arrangement would includes working for major multinational companies such as
IBM and Hewlett-Packard and had an independent business
you suggest for Vilma’s sewing courses? Why?
consulting practice. Earned many awards and recognitions
6. What promotion or marketing would you during his education and completed several business majors
recommend for Vilma’s sewing courses? (marketing, finance, and accounting).

PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014 24
Appendix A.

Outline of Fashion Design Process shown in www.ropajes.com

1. Selection of textile and materials

2. Design creation for their collection

25 PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014
 3. Preparation for the patterns of their collection

4. Textile cutting

PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014 26
5. Sewing the pieces

6. Fashion Show of their collection

27 PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014
Appendix B.

Financial Data

Fashion Center – Liza Thon Fashion School

2007 2008 2009 2010 2011
Assets $169,436 $180,480 $189,323
Equity $166,526 $175,055 $186,498

Carlota Alfaro College

2007 2008 2009 2010 2011
Assets $54,169 $89,730 $36,266 $28,461
Equity $33,188 $30,668 $32,019 $22,859

Ropajes
2007 2008 2009 2010 2011
Assets $13,584 $12,762 $12,016 $7,139
Equity $11,281 $11,449 $12,784 $4,293

Source: Departamento de Estado del Gobierno de PR (Puerto Rico State Department)

PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014 28
Appendix C.

Sample Term and Courses from CADAC (Ropajes)

Each course usually meets once per week for 8 weeks (approximately 30 hours per curse)
Sewing machine, mannequin and drawing board available for each student in a workshop.

WORKSHOP MEETS
Basic Sewing Saturday
Basic Sewing Night
Basic Sewing Day
Intermediate Sewing I Saturday
Intermediate Sewing I Night
Intermediate Sewing I Day
Intermediate Sewing II Saturday
Intermediate Sewing II Night
Intermediate Sewing II Day
Advanced Sewing I Saturday
Advanced Sewing I Night
Advanced Sewing I Day
Swimsuits I Saturday
Swimsuits I Night
Swimsuits I Day
Swimsuits II Saturday
Swimsuits II Night
Swimsuits II Day
Illustration and Design I Saturday
Illustration and Design I Night
Illustration and Design II Saturday
Illustration and Design II Night

29 PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014
Appendix D.

Comparative Tables

Figure 1. Sample Course Pricing for key players in the Sewing Industry (PR metro area
2012)

Cost Cost
per Per
SEWING SCHOOL Course Hours hour Notes
Cost includes $660 for course + $60 of
Carlota Alfaro College $720 54 $13.33 registration
Centro Moda - Liza
Thon $250 18 $13.89 For an independent short course
Miranda Textiles $320 36 $8.89 Registration $20 + $25 * 12 classes of 3hours
Ropajes/CADAC $395 30 $13.17 Cash price
Independent
Instructors $300 30 $10.00 Significant variations between instructors

Each school can have different types of course pricings that usually depend on the course, course
length, and financing. Course pricing changes frequently.

Figure 2. Comparative Table of key player offerings in the Sewing Industry (PR metro
area 2012)
Offers Offers Offers Other Courses
Advanced Bachelor's or (Not directly related to
Sewing Associate degree sewing or Fashion
SEWING SCHOOL Courses (Accredited) Design)
Carlota Alfaro College
(www.carlotaalfarocollege.com) Yes Yes Yes
Escuela de Artes Plásticas de P.R.
(www.eap.edu) Yes Yes Yes
Centro Moda - Escuela de Diseño
Liza Thon (www.lisathon.com) Yes Yes No
Miranda Textiles
(www.facebook.com/mirandastextiles) No No Yes
Ropajes (Vilma Martínez &
Namibia Viera) (www.ropajes.com) Yes No Yes
Independent Instructors Yes No Seldom

Course prices, offers, and course descriptions were generally listed in their web sites:
http://www.carlotaalfarocollege.com/cursos-cortos.html
http://www.eap.edu/descargas/cursos/EAP-Cursos-Modas.pdf
http://www.lisathon.com/curriculo.htm
https://www.facebook.com/mirandastextiles
http://www.ropajes.com/descripcion-talleres-de-8-semanas.html

PRAXIS@FAE/marzo-agosto de 2014 30