4L80E Modifications Guide

Written by 5.7stroker on LS1TECH

Rev 2.0 2-2-21
The following information is a compilation of advice, tips, tricks, and instruction that I have received over the
past few months from various professional builders on how to make a high performance 4L80E. I make no
claims to the accuracy of this information. Use at your own risk. The part numbers mentioned here were
used in a performance rebuild of a 2005 core for use in a 2000 Camaro SS. Most of the information should be
applicable to 97-UP late model 4L80E but verify all part numbers to be certain. The purpose of this guide is to
use as a reference as it covers many of the common questions asked in detail.

Parts
Part numbers, descriptions and notes

Review the notes column in the above image. For my 1200 rwhp build, I purchased everything that was NOT
listed in the optional parts section or kits section with the exception of a replacement boost valve and o-ringed
end plugs for the pump.
Additional Part comments

For the rear servo, a CK performance 4L80ECC/RSS can be used which allows the servo to drop down an
additional .090" when not applied, reducing drag.

If your application has over 250 PSI line pressure in reverse, it’s a good idea to install Sonnax part #34528-01K
Check with the manufacturer of your vale body.

The 4L80E pump saver part number EA80PS from extremeautomatics is a good buy.

The TCC and AFL valves in the valve body are prone to failure. They should be replaced with their bores
reamed properly unless purchasing a new valve body/transbrake where this mod has already been performed.
Part number 48-ACT-TL and 4L80E-TCC

You do not need to fully disassemble the shift shaft to replace the case seal that the shift shaft goes through.
You can use a shaft seal removal tool part # 96480 as seen here:
Recommended Tools

In addition to your standard sockets, wrenches, screw drivers, pliers, etc I recommend purchasing the
following items. Note that no special Kent Moore tools are required. Note that the use of Teflon tape is for
the air compressor gun fittings. Teflon tape is not to be used on any fitting in the actual transmission.
Snap ring, bearing, and washer identification
Snap Rings

It is strongly advised that when you disassemble the transmission, to leave these with the parts they go with.
In case you get these mixed up, the chart, diagram, and actual pictures of the parts below can be used to
quickly determine what snap ring goes where. For the three snap rings highlighted in yellow in the table, those
are not pictured in the actual images as I did not need to remove them from the hard parts.
Bushings

This image should help with bushing location. I strongly recommend purchasing the durabond TK-4A kit, and
getting an extra fluted sun gear shaft bushing to use in the rear of the overdrive drum. For 1997+ cores
DuraBond offers a complete bushing set that has been coated with a Black Teflon coating that is even better,
and the part number is TK-4AHP. 1997+ cores have the worse Lubrication system that tends to eat bushings
more commonly. Note that if you have an 04+ core, you will need the proper extension housing bushing and
will need to purchase GMT-4-5. If you have 97-03, you will need 34005F. Both aren’t in the kit.
Drill mods as part or in addition to the dual feed modification

1. Drill a "Lube to Line Bypass" in the pump cover 0.093”

NOTE: This line to lube bleed should always be drilled when the line pressure is increased. Sonnax #34200-14K
Pressure-Regulator Valve does create a bleed, but only in a stock system. Sonnax #34200-01K Boost-Valve
does not provide any Line to Lube bleed. So in high hp applications, always drill the lube to line bypass
regardless of what valve is being used.

Steps 3, 6, and 7 below are ONLY for 1997+ cores... Early cores already have larger lube holes.

2. Drill a bleed release hole in the direct drum 0.050 - 0.060" (1/16)

3. Enlarge the feed passage on the rear-half of the pump (stator support side) with a 0.125” drill bit at 45 deg
angle

4. Enlarge the seal drain back hole in the pump cover with a 0.250” drill bit (1/4)
5. Enlarge the lube hole in the Overrun Clutch housing with a .125" drill bit at 45 deg angle
6. Enlarge the feed passage on the center support with a 0.125 drill bit (1/8)
7. Enlarge the feed passage on the sun gear by cutting a slit in it using a cutting wheel

When drilling the bleed release hole in the direct, drill at an angel as outboard as possible.

Be sure to deburr all holes. These modifications are shown in the following pictures in more detail
Internal dual feed modification

You are dual feeding by removing the seal on the direct drum and/or 2nd ring on the center support, and then
plugging the reverse side of the center support. That is all, no other mods are required to complete the dual
feed process. You can do this using a stock valve body and plate. If however you are using a transbrake, follow
the instructions exactly. For the D3 transbrake for instance, you do not plug the reverse side of the center
support or the reverse side of the case.

1. Leave the center seal off the direct drum

2. Leave the 2nd ring from the top off of the center support
3. Plug the case passage with a 5/16” set screw. Tap the case with a 5/16-18 tap. (DO NOT DO THIS IF
RUNNING A D3 Transbrake)
4. Plug the right hole on the center support using a 5/16 set screw. (DO NOT DO THIS IF RUNNING A D3
Transbrake)

Use Red Thread-Locking compound on the 5/16" set-screws. Note Fine-Thread set-screws tend to seal better
than coarse-thread...

The passage/ hole in the center-support is often too large to use a Fine-Thread set-screw that will seal well.
These holes vary in size somewhat from unit to unit.

Get a junk center-support and practice on it... try to see what size hole you can get a fine-thread set-screw to
seal... let Red Thread-Locking compound dry for 24 hours before air-checking.

-The case holes here also vary in size somewhat... Sometimes you can install two small case-seals from a
THM200/ THM200-4R (Low-Reverse housing seal).

https://cobratransmission.com/200-4r-seal-cup-plug-low-reverse-clutch-housing-2178-1

These keep oil from leaking between the case and center support (install 2, even when plugging one passage).
When Using Jakes D3 Trans brake, follow his instructions to the letter. I will included some additional pictures
that I took during my own install along with some of my own comments.

I left the electrical connection unplugged after installing the modified EPC per Jakes instructions.

For the wiring of the transbrake, I took the external wiring harness and removed the inner green portion.
Using a 1/16 drill bit, I drilled 2 new holes. One hole for a pin that is ground, the other hole for a pin that is
power. The location for the new pins can be seen circled in red below. I inserted the pre-pinned ground and
power wires from the solenoids located on the transbrake into the holes drilled into the external harness and
used some Permatex #81180 which is a specially formulated “automatic transmission RTV” to seal them and
protect from moisture/water. In general, RTV will be negatively affected by ATF. ATF will dissolve or break-
down most RTV compounds. Standard RTV cannot be used.

I took the “A” plug from the portion of the harness that hooks to the pressure manifold switch (on mine it was
purple in color) and spliced a ground wire. I soldered the ground wire to it and used heat shrink tubing. Then I
connected the end of that ground wire to the pressure solenoid located on the side of the valve body. I used a
terminal spade connector and tapped the center of the connector with a punch as seen in the picture below
so that it will be secure on the connection point. It will rotate on the connector, but it can’t be pulled off once
the punch is used.
The last picture above on the right with the black and red arrows is from a 4l60E to 4L80E conversion harness.
You will tap into these locations by drilling holes into this connector. These wires can be lead to a switch in
the cabin to activate the transbrake, or you can chose to ground the black wire on one of the bolts inside the
case. I chose to feed it through the electrical plug. Note the position of the transbrake activation power wire
on the far right in location K, and the ground wire just next to it in position J.

You application may be different, but for swapping a stock 4L60E with a 4L80E into a 4 th gen Fbody, you can
modify the external wiring harness so that circuit “U” of the 4L60E side goes to the “S” of the 4L80E side. You
no longer use the original S & T circuits of the 4L60E and those can be plugged with Permatex #81180. The
red positive wire for the transbrake activation can be connected to pin K in the image of the external harness
plug below, and the black ground wire for the transbrake activation can be connected to the pin in image J.
Just make sure that you pinned them correctly on the internal wiring harness also. For my 4th gen Fbody
application (may apply to other applications) the VSS is the rear sensor on the T-case and part of the existing
4l60E harness will connect there. The ISS front sensor is connected by using an ISS wiring harness and
connecting that wire to cavities 22 & 23 of the Red PCM Connector. You will need to pierce the silicone seal
with a sharp awl, remove the terminal Locks, then insert the two wires into 22 & 23. Polarity there doesn’t
matter.
Rear Servo pin adjustment

The rear servo should be adjusted so that the travel when the output shaft is very difficult to turn is .100” To
achieve this, only use the following parts when determining servo pin end play:

Pin, spring retainer (or washer depending on year), pin clip, servo piston. Just these 4 items circled in white as
seen here and assemble them. Ensure that the piston seal is not installed when measuring.

Use a dial indicator and zero it when the piston is in the zero position. Press down on the piston and note the
amount of travel. If the amount is greater than .100”, then you will need to weld on top of the pin to make it
longer. If the amount is less than .100”, you will need to grind down the pin. You want the output shaft to
start feeling hard to travel at .070”-.080” as you are pressing down on the piston. When you need two hands
to rotate the output shaft, the travel should be set to .100”. Factory spec is much wider, but for fastest
release of the transbrake, it is advised to target the amount of travel listed above. Note that the output shaft
will always be able to rotate with enough force, even when the servo pin is fully engaged.

There is a bevel leading to the bore and it goes all the way around and is not square to the case. The edge of
the piston must be lined up with the bevel that is not square to the case. That is zero position.
Note that this picture below is NOT zero position:

This is zero position:

Use the dial indicator as seen in the pictures, and weld or shave the end of the pin as necessary for proper
adjustment.

Reassemble as shown in the picture, ensuring that the large and small spring retainers are in the correct
orientation as pictured.

If your application has over 250 PSI line pressure in reverse, it’s a good idea to install Sonnax part #34528-01K
Additional suggested modifications

TH400 Piston assembly

For 1,000+ HP it is strongly recommended to use an aluminum (wide surface) TH400 piston in the direct.

This modification will consist of:

-TH400 Piston with a checkball if the direct drum doesn’t have a check ball, or TH400 piston without a
checkball if the direct drum does contain a checkball. The TH400 piston is offered both with and without a
checkball, so inspect your direct drum and order the correct one. Never use a checkball in both locations.

-The work surface of the piston area machined so that .060” clearance between the pressure plate and top
friction can be achieved. . Machine the surface to about .620” - .630”

- No wave plate

- Six frictions that are .080” thick and six steels that are .090” thick.

-8 high rate springs only using FTI 4067 (application dependant, some hi-rate springs require all 16)

-TH400 spring retainer

-Center lip seal #334 on the direct is removed, but inner and outer lip seals are to be used on the TH400
piston. You’ll need to purchase new lip seals 34335 and 34336 as they don’t come in the rebuild kit.

Use a lip wizard to install the seals on the TH400 piston as shown, and make sure the lip of both seals is
positioned FACE DOWN relative as seen in the pic below.
Direct Super Drum

For 1,000+ HP, If using an iron/ steel direct drum (regardless of intermediate sprag) it is recommended to use
an early THM400 drum with both sets of feed-passages. I used a 36 sprag direct aluminum super drum.

Some of the direct super drums (that contain a 36 size sprag instead of the less durable 34 size sprag) while
able to use traditional sized direct frictions inside the drum may not use the traditional 4L80E intermediate
frictions that make contact with the outer sprag race of the direct drum. For these particular style of super
drum, the frictions used are ford c6 transmission type, and will be included with the direct super drum. 5 are
to be used, which is possible because of the intermediate pressure plate that has been machined for proper
clearance. The stock 4L80E intermediate wave plate that rests on top of the center support should be used.
The HD intermediate snap ring should replace the stock 4L80E snap ring. When using this aluminum drum, the
intermediate front band should be removed and a case saver installed in its place as pictured below. The
beveled snap ring and the intermediate snap ring align with the groves in the case saver. The beveled ring
should be installed beveled side up and in the 9 o’clock position while the HD snap ring should be installed in
the 3 o’clock position. The image below doesn’t show the case saver installed, but the cap in the beveled snap
ring should be as wide as it is in the pic below. If the snap ring won’t go in all the way, it’s because the height
of the center support is taller than the ring grooves, and you may have a bearing flipped or something
installed incorrectly.

You will not have 2nd gear engine braking with the front band removed, but its removal will preserve the life of
the anodized aluminum drum. If using a steel super drum, the front band can be left in place. Upon removal
of the front band, you need to block the servo in the middle of travel so that the servo doesn’t make contact
with the drum. The front servo piston assembly consists of the pin, the retainer clip, the oil seal, the piston,
the spring retainer, and the spring. To block the servo in the middle of travel, simply assemble the servo
assembly such that it only contains the oil seal, the pin, and the retainer clip and to this assembly, add a
washer and nut as seen in the picture below. The spring can be removed. Another option is to install set-
screws for both circuits that enter that bore and remove the entire front servo assembly altogether.
Intermediate piston springs and retainer

The 4L80E flimsy intermediate spring retainer and springs should be replaced with TH400 spring retainer and
springs as seen below.

Rollerized forward hub

Use of a billet rollerized forward hub is strongly recommended. This prevents clutch housing float by
eliminating all the endplay in the direct clutch housing. The OEM thrust washer is replaced with the thrust
bearing and comes with the billet hub as pictured below.
Preventing planetary float

It is advised to have a pocket machined in the front planetary and to use a bearing in that location rather than
a washer. This will help prevent reaction carrier float. The pocket should be machined to a depth of 0.075”,
an inside diameter of 2.125” and outside diameter of 2.875”The 2 tang plastic washer on the rear planetary is
then removed altogether. The bearing that will go into the pocket is a TH350 rear pump thrust bearing and
selective shims, the same type of shims you will use during the rollerizing of the output which will be
explained later. The bearing should go into the front planet with the silver side face down and the black side
exposed. The bearing and shim underneath it will actually be positioned in the middle of the sun gear when it
is assembled.

Rollerizing the output

This is achieved by replacing the 3 prong washer and the 4 prong washer with a TH350 Torrington bearing
(9436851 or 44211C) and shims (K35412 or 44200F) and using a sonnax no walk bushing installed backwards
part number 34006-SP. Instead of the Sonnax #34006-SP bushing and separate bearing and shims (9438651
and 44200F), you can also use the Sonnax #34006-SPB instead which contains a slightly different bushing that
includes the bearing and shims. This allows you to install the no walk bushing properly, but either option will
work as I have never heard of the combo listed in the parts chart walking out.

These instructions that follow pertain to the 34006-SP bushing. You must file two grooves into the bushing as
to not block the oil passages as seen in the picture below. These groves will be located 90 degrees from each
other. Use red loctite and install the sonnax no walk bushing all the way into the case, as seen in the pictures
below. It is important to measure the thickness of the 4 tang metal washer and 3 tang washer stack. These
will both be omitted when rollerizing. Stack the 44200F shims and new 9436851 bearing at the same
thickness as what was measured for the 4 tang metal washer and 3 tang washer combination. Then to this
total thickness, add an additional .020” thick shim from the 44200F kit. The bearing should be positioned so
that the black side is toward the rear of the case, with the shims located underneath it. You don’t want the
underside portion of the bearing to move when rotating the output shaft. Ensure that the top of the bearing
moves when rotating the output shaft by looking through the access hole in the bottom of the case.
Billet 300M input shaft

It is strongly advised at this power level to replace the stock input shaft with one that is 300M billet steel. To
resize the new sealing rings, you can used thin schedule ¾” and ½” PVC tube from Lowes or Home Depot along
with a socket to stretch out the rings. Taper the inside of the PVC using an exacto knife to make fitment over
the rings easier.
Pump modifications

Disassemble the pump and inspect the end plugs and parts for wear. It is advised to replace the boost valve
with a sonnax boost valve. This line to lube bleed should always be drilled when the line pressure is increased.
Sonnax #34200-14K Pressure-Regulator Valve does create a bleed, but only in a stock system. Sonnax #34200-
01K Boost-Valve does not provide any Line to Lube bleed. So in high hp applications, always drill the lube to
line bypass regardless of what valve is being used. The spring in the boost valve if using a Jakes D3 brake
should be replaced with the spring he provides. The stock end plugs with no O rings seen in the picture below
can be replaced with sonnax o-ringed end plugs. If the small TCC valve end plug is .500" dia. x .275" wide,
leave as is if in good condition or replace with OEM 8682857. If the endplug is .500" dia. x .177" wide, replace
with Sonnax small O-ringed end plug 34994-13.

34200-05K - SONNAX O-ring pump end plug -.625DIA 5/SET

34994-14K - SONNAX O-ring pump end plug -.668DIA 5/SET
34994-13 - SONNAX O-ring pump end plug -.050DIA 5/SET
8682857 - Torque Converter Clutch Valve Pump seal plug
Setting Endplay

Review the instructions in the article titled: “Playing with Transmissions: Setting Total Endplay to Prevent
TH400 Gear Train Failure” by Randall Schroeder

Forward Hub to Direct Drum end play – If using a rollerized forward hub, the endplay should be zero.
Normally it would be .003"-. 008" if NOT using a rollerized forward hub.

Stack the gear train up to the direct drum, Place the Forward Hub over the Main Shaft, Hold the forward hub
down with your palms & lift the direct drum with your fingers.....The play you feel is the end play. Since a billet
rollerized forward hub is being used, endplay should be zero for this measurement

Reaction Carrier to Center Support - If the front planet is being machined for a Torrington bearing and the 2
or 4 tang washer removed off the rear planet, the spec changes from .008” - .015” to .005” - .010”

To measure Reaction Carrier to Center Support endplay, stack the gear train up to the center support, Place
the Forward Hub over the Main Shaft, Hold the forward hub down with your palms and lift up the center
support to separate it from the Reaction carrier. Or Hold/Push down on the Center Support & Lift up on the
Reaction Carrier. Add enough shims underneath the bearing so that you feel zero endplay. Then slowly
change the combination of shims by .005” increments until you feel slight endplay. Add another .005” to that,
and use that combination of shims in that location. The endplay with a bearing and machined pocket should
be considerably less than what you felt when in stock configuration. Max endplay here should not exceed
.010” but you have to go by feel, since you cannot get a dial indicator in this measurement.

Total rear unit endplay….. .003"-. 008" (Rollerized)

Assemble the unit up to the Center Support (with the beveled Snap Ring installed)....Do not install the front
planet. Makes it easier and lighter as it does not affect rear endplay. Lift up on the output shaft using a crow
bar and have a dial indicator on the main shaft. I like to use a long piece of steel tubing cut to 1 foot and set it
inside the main shaft and also drill a hole in the top of the tubing for the dial needle to rest on. The rod can be
purchased at home depot. The picture shows a 3/8 extension being used, but the rod is much better.

Parts list that does need to be installed to check rear unit endplay (Top to Bottom).....

*Beveled Snap Ring.

*Center Support.
*Thin (Fretting) Snap Ring.
*Rear Sun Gear to Center Support Bearing.
*Rear Sun Gear.
*Rear Internal Gear to Rear Sun Gear Bearing AND the factory .041" shim!!!
*Output Carrier (Only to keep everything assembled & center the Sun Gear)
*Output Shaft to Internal Gear Bearing.
*Output Shaft.
*Selectable TH350 Shims.
*TH350 Bearing.
Front unit..... .005-.008" more/greater than the Rear Unit

Stack everything listed above, and also the direct drum, forward drum, all washers and bearings, and install
the input shaft. Input Shaft needs to be pointing straight up for this measurement. There is free play between
the OD Carrier & Input Shaft Snap Ring, so use a feeler gauge on the bench to measure this. Mine measured
.022”
*You will need to lift up on the shaft 'till the Snap Ring barely touches the OD Carrier & ZERO your Dial
Indicator.
*However much further the Input Shaft will lift is the Front Unit Endplay.
*You're not going to be able to see the Input Shaft Snap Ring.....you have to go by feel or use the
measurement with the feeler gauge and subtract it from the total play felt when lifting up on the shaft.

I like to use a short piece of steel tubing cut to 3.5 inches and set it inside the input shaft and also drill a hole in
the top of the tubing for the dial needle to rest on. The rod can be also be purchased at home depot.
Endplay adjustments can be made in the following locations:

1. Selective washers under the pump in position 211 on the diagram (front endplay)
2. Selective shims under the bearing in the output (rear endplay) position 269
3. A single .010” shim under the 217 bearing in the front drum (last resort)
4. Selective shims under the bearing in the front planet inside the machined pocket (bearing replaces 268
washer in between the front and rear planets (for measuring reaction carrier to center support endplay)

Your 211 selective washer sizes can be one of the 5 thicknesses: 0.059, 0.075, 0.091, 0.107, 0.123. These are
all contained in the washer kit having part number 34200E.

Your selective shims in the output under the rollerized bearing, or in the front planet machined pocket can be
any combination that is obtainable through the use of the shims which are offered in these sizes: .010”, 0.15”,
.020”, .025”, .030”, .035”, .040” These are found In part #44200F. The individual sizes are part numbers
44212A, 44212B, 44212C, 44212D, 44212E, 44212F

The shim .010” shim under the 217 bearing in the front drum is part number 44255

The forward hub to forward drum washer (#232 in diagram) is offered in stock thickness of .063” but is also
made in a thickness of .078” and .094” for helping with reducing front endplay adjustment. Sonnax part
numbers 34301-078 (.015" oversized) and 34301-094 (.030" oversized). Not included in part list on page 2.

To quickly determine needed washer sizes for adjusting front endplay, the quickest way is to make a excel
sheet where you enter in your original measurements and shims/washers used (measurements A) to compute
desired end result. For example if your rear end play is .005”, and your front endplay measurement was .052”
(ring float included) with the snap ring float measured at .025”, shim size under the pump being .091” and the
#232 shim being stock size 0.063”, your actual front endplay is .027” which is not in spec. Front endplay
needs to be .005-.008" more/greater than the Rear Unit, so your target value is .010” - .013” based on the
chart below, the best option is in column 18, which gives you a theoretical endplay of .012”. Note that the
values I the first 7 rows need to be adjusted to YOUR measurements to get the correct theoretical value for
measurement B.
Additional Tips

Reverse-Boost Circuit

If you are using a transbrake that doesn’t have the Reverse-Boost Circuit Deleted, it is recommended that
Sonnax #34528-01K (for 1997+ cores) be installed.

Pump clearances

It is important to check the pump clearances using a straight edge and a feeler gauge. Pump gears typically
need replaced. Proper gear to face clearance should be .0007 to .0028 Outer gear to pocket is .0015-.008

Inner gear to crescent is .002-.0075 for a brand new pump. .009-.012 is OK

Look for scarring on the inner gear.

Measure the outer gear to top of pocket and inner gear to top of pocket using a straight edge. .0025” or less
here is good.

Fixture for handling the stack outside of the case

Suggest getting a flat piece of wood and propping it up on a set of saw horses and using a 2” hole saw to cut a
hole into the center of the board so that when checking carrier float outside of the case, it’s much easier

OD planet gears

Ensure that clearance is greater than 0.025 between the top of each gear and the washer. If so, it’s time for a
new OD planet. Lay the OD Planet on the bench & Insert the Overrun Hub/OD Sun Gear into it. Press straight
down & turn the Overrun Hub. If you feel any roughness.....then captured bearing in the OD is bad. The planet
can be disassembled to change the bearing using Sonnax part# 34821-01. (S34214)

Forward Drum and direct drum sleeve wear

Inspect these areas for wear and grooves. If grooved, it’s time for a new drum.

4th Clutch Sealing rings

Watch this video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwKJor1EhXI&t=16s&ab_channel=BertselGolden

Part differences

Be mindful of part changes between the years, like the extension bushing length for instance. Read this article
here: https://www.transgo.org/demo/06-45-4L80E-Center-Lube-Changes.pdf
Orientation of snap rings for the reverse boost valve bore in the pump
Make sure the sharp side of the clip goes out. There is a smooth side and a sharp side. The sharp side always
goes out.

Lip seals on the aluminum piston

These go face down toward the drum. Do not install them the wrong way or you will not be able to get the
piston to seat. When seating the TH400 aluminum piston into the drum, use a lip wizard on the inner seal
first, then finish using the lip wizard on the outer seal.

Left over seals

You will more than likely have left over seals from the overhaul kit that were not used, depending on your
application. For my 2005 core that had a fully splined output, the seals that I had left over were as follows:

A. 3rd and 4th clutch accumulator seals. Not used because of Jakes D3 kit
B. Output shaft sleeve o-ring and o-ring. Not used because 2005 core didn’t have these
C. Drain Plug Seal – I used the one that came with the tool
D. Speed sensor O-rings - Not used, new sensors have o-rings on them
E. Seals for Commercial/Merchandised HD unit
F. Input Shaft O-ring – used on input shaft
H. Stator to case o-rings on the bolts. Not used because sfi bell adapter uses longer bolts with o-rings
I. Cooler Line Fitting Retainers – Not used
J. Pressure Switch Manifold. – Came on new PS manifold
G, K, M Solenoid, Captured Checkball Sleeves, & Filters. – came new with Jakes D3 brake
L. Cooler Line Fitting rebuild O-rings - Not used
N. Force motor feed filter. Not used, Jakes D3 had a new one in it.
O. Shift solenoid feed filter. Not used, Jakes D3 had a new one in it.
P. Center support O-ring not used, used the other style “R below” that came in the kit
Q. Direct clutch center o-ring – not used on super drum direct. Instructions say to leave off.
R. Center support O-ring, 2nd from top. Left off per Jakes D3 instructions
S. Accumulator O-rings on the accumulator in the rear servo. Leave off per Jakes D3 instructions
X – Accumulator gasket, top and bottom separator plate gaskets – Comes with Jakes D3 Brake
Notes on tools
It’s recommended that a transmission case stand be used or some type of fixture to allow easy access to the
case both internally and externally. A fixture or stand that allows for it to rotate on an axis is recommended,
similar to this stand shown below. For the bushings, a good bushing driver set is recommended but note that
the center support bushing, sun gear shaft bushing, and both the front and rear pump bushings should be
installed with a press rather than a bushing driver set.

SFI Bellhousing

It is possible to run the stock case and still pass tech at the track if an SFI bellhousing is required. Review your
track rules and know what is required to not only pass tech, but to operate your vehicle safely at the track. To
install an SFI bellhousing such as the Reid BH801, you will need a machined pump and adapter plate as well as
the case machined to accept the bellhousing. I strongly recommend using a shop that has experience cutting
the case to the correct dimensions rather than attempting this on your own. I plan to use a trans blanket
used in combination with the SFI bellhousing to pass tech rather than purchasing a full SFI certified
aftermarket case.
Videos

The following videos should be used for informational purposes only.

ALWAYS refer to the ASTG Manual for any rebuild.
Transmission bench videos https://transmissionbench.com/videospage.html
Jakes Performance Playlist https://www.youtube.com/user/jakeshoe/videos
a21 bravo playlisthttps://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6vOOyydwYro8Buxhtx9G8TRH1CoCrBIi
Irocin Z playlisthttps://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9RjZ-mmG7378A4oOXovkQZrrXTczYwEA
Little Victory Fab Co Playlist https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcz3-NrTLE0G_PY_lceSQAQ/videos
Little Victory Fab Co Patreon videos https://www.patreon.com/littlevictoryfabco/posts

Jakes D3 Install video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ja47hrDLDI

Jakes Rear Servo Pin adjustmenthttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyvNnFXk9xg&ab
Jakes trans fluid level accuracyhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBULieFxGsk&t
Jakes converter fitment issueshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fw6aWNmmK-U&t
Jakes converter installationhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFh_xadjwXI&t
Hiram disassemblyhttps://youtu.be/-7A0VN3Cyws
4l80E disassembly https://youtu.be/iiYgX0yh6gs
Forward clutch tear down https://youtu.be/rHtjRnidprk
Center support tear down https://youtu.be/q87DlUmRUN8
Pump disassembly and inspection https://youtu.be/wlffTgnfEDI
Direct clutch drum disassemblyhttps://youtu.be/H2LBJhSnziU
Valvebody inspection https://youtu.be/Qc5fW3Pxkpo
OD clutch disassembly https://youtu.be/gqLqxn3jeqg
OD assembly disassembly https://youtu.be/Cx2YoMTIRDo
Output shaft disassembly https://youtu.be/CBubs22uN7Y
Disassembly parting thoughts https://youtu.be/Qj2_1N0AuSc
TH400 early direct apply pistonhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7NeiHXdRoQ
Hiram 2 hr assembly https://youtu.be/R7JB8Jqcif0
a21 bravo 4l80e rebuild https://youtu.be/UkWKTtpwO6k
Pump https://youtu.be/nHJKYcmS6fk
OD clutch assembly https://youtu.be/0uPHFpi7I20
Transgo HD2 Kit installhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oJGF-qJAgM
Rollerizing Outputhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb18hXxGpoE
Best 4th clutch lip seal videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwKJor1EhXI&t
Additional Clarifications

When doing the internal dual feed mod, a common question is “what steps should I then follow in the Transgo
?” The answer is if you are internally dual feeding don't even purchase the HD2!

Just get a sonnax boost valve, drill the separator plate, and internally dual feed. That is all you should do and
purchase a HD snap ring or a large spiro-lock separately. However, if you still insist on getting the HD2, here
are the answers to common questions about following the various steps.

Step 1: Drill the hole in the valve body between the torque signal and "void" passages.
Omit

Step 2: Install blue springs on accumulator valve for firmness.

Can be done, but not critical.

Step 3: Remove o-ring on shift solenoid feed filter, install new tapered plug with o-ring, install filter and
orange spring, install new end plug.
Not necessary but OK to do. Some of the earlier 4L80Es can have runaway line pressure, blow the end out of
the filter, and hydraulic pressure can cause the shifter to be moved to reverse.

Step 4/5: Drill for Transgo pressure relief valve.

Do not perform this mod regardless of what you’ve read. It can cause pressure control issues due to the valve
sticking.

Step 6: Drill the separator plate for shift firmness. Replace 3rd gear accumulator spring with white spring.
Follow as instructed and drill to the desired specs. The stock plate can be used if it is in good condition.

Step 7: Install new reverse boost valve and springs into pump.
Only use one or the other. You don’t know what line pressure is until you check it with a given setup.

Step 8: Install new stronger 4th bolt and washer.

No, stock style bolt is better. Get a new stock bolt. Most of the time they come in the overhaul kit.

Step 9: Install hollow sleeve on short end of 1-2 servo pin.

While this reduces servo travel it can cause drag. Don’t perform this mod.

Step 10: Install new orange 1-2 accumulator spring.

Not necessary, but OK to do.

Internal upgrades transgo instructions continued.

Step 1: Change release springs in direct clutch.

Yes. Also drill a 1/16” bleed hole in the drum.

Step 2: Install thicker intermediate snap ring.

Yes or use a spiral lock.
Step 3: Enlarge hole 1/4-9/32 to prevent pump front seal blowout.
Yes

Step 4: Drill a 3/64 hole in the pump between the "line" passage and the converter feed passage.
Yes

Other questions
What should I do to my core to support 800 hp in a mid weight vehicle?
Rollerized forward hub, rollerized output shaft, new Borg Warner High Energy friction materials with 6
clutches in the direct, new steels, new bands, new sprags, use a HD intermediate snap ring, perform applicable
drill mods, replace boost valve, replace AFL and TCC valves if needed and ream bores if needed, replace all
electrical components with new. You don’t need a billet input shaft, 36 sprag, or other hard part mods for
800hp.

Should I ever remove the checkballs inside the valve body?

No

Should the reverse checkball in the case can be omitted or installed?

Doesn’t matter.

What is the purpose of drilling larger holes in the plate, omitting check balls, installing a different accumulator
valve spring and 3rd accumulator spring?
Firmer shifts

What is the purpose of an aftermarket boost valve?

More line pressure, which gives more clutch clamping force and firmer shifts.

How do I convert a 4wd to a 2wd 4L80E?

The main things are the output shaft, the orifice lube plug in the rear, and the reluctor on the rear planet.
I will run a T3-35571HP yoke on a 24204289 fully splined output shaft.

Acknowledgements and special thanks go out to all the individuals below that helped me out immensely
during this entire build. Most of this document is based on what I’ve learned from them.

Vorteciroc on ls1tech, Clinebarger on ls1tech, Jake Shoemake, Grady Farrer, Lonnie Diers, Doug Sproston, &
Chris Kokonis.