An Introduction to

Pattern Cutting

Created by Sarah from The Sewing Retreat

To print or not to print?
Do you really need to print me?

My links will work if you can use me on a tablet,

computer or laptop. Plus the world will be happier.

However, if you do need to print me I like to be

printed on recycled paper and on a quick print
setting so I don’t use as much ink.

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 Contents
1. Why knowing how to pattern cut will help you

2. What is pattern cutting?

3. Pattern cutting tools Click me to go to the

chapter
4. Woven vs. stretch pattern cutting

5. Understanding the grain line

6. The main basic woven blocks

7. The main basic stretch blocks

8. Types of seams

9. Types of hems

10. Pattern cutting annotations

11. Pattern cutting symbols

12. Annotations for design features

13. Glossary of terms

14. What’s next?

© The Sewing Retreat

Hey, I’m Sarah and I’m the creator of
this eBook.

I’m from the Cotswolds in the UK and I’m on a

mission to help you create the clothes you’ve
always dreamt of so they look stunning and fit
perfectly too!

Having studied at London College of Fashion,

worked in the fashion industry for many years,
and taught sewing and pattern cutting classes
both on and offline for over 10 years I really do
know my stuff.

So, I’m hear to share everything I know with

you so that you too can create perfectly fitting
dream clothes..

Follow me on Instagram to learn lots of

great sewing and pattern cutting tips and
tricks as well as to be first to hear about
my next courses

@thesewingretreat

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 Why knowing how to pattern cut
will help you
Do you wish you could turn an
image of a garment you see into an
actual garment you can wear?

Do you have a favourite top or

dress that you wish you could
make again and again?

Have you spent hours making

a shop bought sewing pattern
only to find that it doesn’t fit
properly when you’ve finished?
Do you like to design your
own clothing but you don’t know
where to begin to make it?

If you’ve answered yes to any of those

questions they you’re in the right place.

© The Sewing Retreat 1

 What is pattern cutting?
Pattern cutting is the process of making a series of
templates to use to cut out fabric to make a garment.
In essence, pattern cutting is like following a recipe and,
if you understand what each ingredient does then you’ll
be well on the way to creating your dream clothes.

Once you know how to pattern cut you’ll be able to

adjusting commercial (shop bought) sewing patterns,
create your own sewing patterns for your dream
clothes and create patterns from clothes you already
have.

For those of you who already know me, you’ll know that
I try to be as ethical as possible. Pattern cutting is no
exception and I’m going to show you how you can be
more eco-friendly with your pattern cutting which will
in turn save you money on materials.

Did you know?

In the fashion industry the pattern cutters
don’t give the seamstresses instructions on how
to make the pattern? The seamstresses just get given
a drawing of what the garment looks like, the fabric with
the pattern and maybe a two minute explanation. Then
they just follow the symbols, annotations and drawings
to know how to sew it together. The symbols
and annotations act as a story as to how the
garment goes together .

© The Sewing Retreat 2

 Pattern cutting tools
As with any craft you can buy a million and one tools but you really don’t need most of the fancy gadgets
out there. So, this list shows you what you really need and because I’m all about being ethical, I advise
trying to find second hand or vintage tools when possible.

If this isn’t possible for you then click on the blue text below to find out where to purchase your own
tools and where possible I’m suggested eco-friendly versions.

I use the pattern master. There are many A 0.3mm/0.5mm propelling pencil and
other pattern cutting rulers out there, just refillable leads is idea. A normal pencil gets
make sure they have the 90 degree mark and blunt too quickly and means that your
0.5cm increment lines. patterns won’t be accurate.
Pattern Cutting Ruler Propelling Pencil

Sticky Tape
The best tape to use is eco-
friendly narrow brown tape.
You can write over it as well
as being kind to the planet
but otherwise a scotch
tape is the best so it can be
written on.

Paper Scissors
To make your scissors last
longer, only use your paper
scissors for paper and fabric
scissors for fabric. Using fabric
Pattern Cutting Paper Notchers scissors for cutting paper will
make them go blunt because
Use light-weight, approx. Notchers are like a hole punch but you are effectively cutting
50gsm, recycled paper or they are used to punch out ‘u’ shaped though a tree. The best scissors
second hand paper if possible. notches along the edge of the paper are sharp, so sharpen when
It’ll need to be at least 50cm which are then matched up when needed.
wide +. If you’re looking to buy sewing. If you don’t have notchers you
a roll of paper we recommend can just use scissors and cut ‘v’ shapes
recycled plotter paper from instead, you paterns won’t last quite as
canon as it’s super wide or a long as they rip easier but they’ll do the
brown paper trick for now.

© The Sewing Retreat 3

 Woven vs. stretch pattern cutting
Different patterns have to be made for woven fabrics and for stretch fabrics because of how the fabric
is made, and in turn how the fabric reacts. Below outlines their properties and what that means for
pattern cutting.

Woven Fabrics Stretch/Knit Fabrics

The threads run vertically and The fabric is knitted using a single
horizontally through the fabric yarn with interweaving loops and
meaning there is no real natural
How is the thus allows it to naturally stretch a bit.
stretch (unless the thread has some fabric made? Often extra elastic fibres are added to
artificial stretch to it) give the fabric even more stretch

Woven fabrics won’t naturally curve Knit fabrics will naturally stretch
around the body so they have to What does around the body when they’re pulled
be sculpted using darts, pleats and this mean? tight taking on the body’s natural
other design features shape

Cottons, bamboo silk, denim, wool, Example Jersey, swimsuit fabric, active-wear
felt etc. Fabrics fabrics, etc.

© The Sewing Retreat 4

 Understanding the grain line
Bias (at a 45
degree angle)

Standard grain
line

Selvedge edges

Why is the grain line important?

Understanding the grain line of your fabric is very important as it will have an effect on
the overall drape of the garment and therefore the fit. If you cut out your fabric with
the grain line slightly off, then the garment will pull/distort in strange ways.

The grain line is always parallel to the selvedge edges (the sides which were held
onto the loom during weaving). Above shows a bolt of fabric and the grain-line and
selvedge edges to give you a better understanding. When a pattern is cut with the
grain then the grain-line always runs up and down the body. This is shown with an
arrow on every pattern piece.

Sometimes a pattern should be cut on the bias. This means the pattern should be cut
at a 45 degree angle to the grain line. This allows the fabric to drape in a less rigid way.
For example a cowl neck or silk camisole are normally cut on the bias. In this case
the arrow will be at a 45 degree angle to the body and this is marked on your pattern
pieces with an arrow.

Woven Fabrics Stretch/Knit Fabrics

Bi
Standard grain line
as
cu
t
Standard grain line

Standard grain line

Bi

Bi
as

as
cu

cu
t

© The Sewing Retreat 5

 The main woven blocks
To form 99% of sewing patterns, ‘pattern blocks’ are used. These blocks don’t have any seam or hem
allowances, or design features and are usually made from thick card so they can be used again and
again. They act as a templates/stencisl which can be drawn around and then adapted to the design
required.

Each company will have their own set of pattern blocks that they will use to make all of their designs.
This is why you will often find the same size in different shops will fit very differently.

Below shows the main basic blocks used in pattern cutting for woven fabrics.

Back Bodice Front Bodice Sleeve Front Trouser Back Trouser

Front Skirt Back Skirt

There are other basic blocks such as

the overcoat blocks, two piece sleeve
block etc. but these blocks here form
the basis to learn how to pattern cut.

© The Sewing Retreat 6

 The main stretch blocks
A different set of basic blocks are used for stretch/knit fabrics than for woven fabrics. This is because,
as explained on page 4, stretch/knit fabrics will naturally form to the body therefore the pattern pieces
don’t need darts like woven fabric blocks require.

Below shows the main basic blocks used in pattern cutting for stretch/knit fabrics.

Back Bodice Front Bodice Sleeve Front Trouser Back Trouser

Front Skirt Back Skirt

There are other basic blocks such as

jacket blocks, legging blocks, bodysuit
blocks etc. but these blocks here form
the basis to learn how to pattern cut.

© The Sewing Retreat 7

 Seam allowance guidelines
Seam and hem allowances are always added last as you should NEVER change them or add in extra
bits to them. Once you’ve made all of your changes, whether that be one change, or multiple changes to
your patterns, then you can add on your hem and seam allowances.

You’ll know where you’d like a hem and where you would like your seams to be as your design will
dictate this. However, if you don’t know which type of hem or seam you’d like then you can use these
tables below to help you decide which seam and hem allowance is best for your design and fabric.

Seam
Type of Seam Diagram allowance Where should it be used?
required
Most commonly used.
These are either pressed
Plain Seam 1cm/3/8” with the raw edges open
or facing towards the back
of the garment
Light fabric which frays
easily and you’d like the
French Seam 1.5cm/5/8”
finish to be super nice
i.e. a silk shirt
Good for knit fabrics to
Double 1cm/3/8” stop the fabric from rolling
Stitched Seam but can be used on woven
fabrics too

Flat-felled Traditionally used on the

1.5cm/5/8”
Seam inside leg seams on jeans

Coats/jackets without a
Bound Seam 1.5cm/5/8”
lining

© The Sewing Retreat 8

 Hem allowance guidelines

Hem allowance
Type of Hem Diagram Where should it be used
required

This is the most commonly

Double Fold used hem as it hides any
1.5cm/5/8”
Hem raw edges preventing any
fraying any
Light fabrics, especially silk,
Narrow Rolled 0.6cm/ 1/4” & around corners. (You can
Hem get sewing feet which will
help to do this for you)

Often used for the hems

Blind Hem 2cm +/ 3/4”+ on trousers, skirts &
curtains

Another common seam

Zigzag/ with less bulk than a
Overlocked 1.5cm/5/8” double fold, the zigzag raw
Hem edge means it only needs
to be folded once
A long narrow zigzag stitch
is used with stretch fabrics
Knit Hems 1.5cm/5/8”
to allow them give when
they’re stretched

***Please note, when you’re using thick fabric then larger

hem allowances may be needed***

TOP TIP:
Always add hem and seam
allowances last

© The Sewing Retreat 9

 Pattern cutting annotations
On each pattern piece you should always write on the pattern the below information. Some of this
information won’t seem vital at first but as you create more versions, more intricate pattern pieces and
have more pieces of paper floating around you’ll be thankful for having this information on each piece.

ANNOTATIONS ON EACH PATTERN PIECE

1. A title of what you’re making.

2. The pattern piece number & number of pieces to make the garment. For
example 1/5 if it is pattern piece 1 and there are 5 pieces in total. (you’ll thank
me later when you have 20 pieces to a garment and you know which one is
missing). + how many to cut out of fabric

3. Size or the name of who the garment is specifically made for if it’s a bespoke
size.

4. Woven/stretch (so if you decide to make it again later you’ll know what type
of fabric you designed it for. Using the wrong type of fabric isn’t advisable as
it could create a strange fit.

5. The amount of seam allowance given, (i.e. 1cm Seam Allowance, this can be
shortened to 1cm S.A.).

6. If applicable, mark the hem line on using a dotted line and notches either
end. This makes it easier to distinguish the hem from the seam edges.

7. The date – this then means if you have development patterns you can tell
which is the latest quickly. If you design different versions on the same day
then it’s best to write version 1/versions 2 etc. on them

© The Sewing Retreat 10

Pattern cutting symbols
THE FOLLOWING SYMBOLS SHOULD BE SHOWN ON
EVERY RELEVANT PATTERN
1. The grain line must be shown on every pattern piece. This is always indicated
by an arrow, the arrow will usually be parallel to the centre front/centre back
unless the garment is to be cut on the bias in which case the arrow will be at
45 degrees to the CF/CB.
Bias cut With the
grain

2. Mark dart points with an ‘o’ where they end, these are then marked on the
fabric with thread (which is removed later) or a pin/chalk. Use dotted lines
between the ‘o’s to show where they will be folded.

3. If the pattern is to be cut on the fold, mark this on the pattern. Note that this
side won’t require a seam allowance.

on the fold

4. Use notches to show where two pattern pieces should match up in difficult
places such as sleeves and arm holes. These are normally done as cuts along
the edge of the pattern piece in a ‘V’ or ‘U’ shape.

Notch

THE FOLLOWING ANNOTATIONS ARE GREAT ADDITIONS

TO HELP WITH ALTERATIONS:
1. Mark the Centre Front line = CF & the Centre Back line = CB. These are useful
when altering patterns.
New Born
Baby Slipper
2. If you know the waist, bust, hip, elbow, knee & hem lines are then mark
Soles
them on as they can be useful for adjusting the length of a garment later.
Cut x 2 pairs
out of the main
fabric
WAIST LINE

© The Sewing Retreat 11

Annotations for design
features
THESE ARE A FEW LITTLE EXTRAS FOR SPECIFIC
DESIGN FEATURES:
1. Pleats - Use dotted lines to show where to folds are and an arrow to show
the direction of the pleat.

FOLD

2. Gathers - Mark the start and finish of the gather and join them with a wiggly
line. Write the finished length the gathers should be, for example the fabric
maybe 20cm when cut but once gathered it needs to be 10cm.

GATHER TO ??CM

3. Button Holes - Mark on buttonholes showing the placement and length

with the symbol shown below. This makes it clear where the hole starts and
finishes.

4. Buttons & Poppers - Mark where the button/popper should be sewn on

with a cross and write what type of fastening is required next to it.

x BUTTON

5. Zips - mark where it’s going to go with an arrow and a line at the end to
show where the zip ends. Write the type and length of zip required next to
the arrow line.

20CM CLOSE ENDED ZIP

6. If a different seam other than a standard seam should be used then write
this on the pattern along i.e. french seam (1.5cm S.A.).

© The Sewing Retreat 12

© The Sewing Retreat 13
Are you ready to take to the next step and start creating you own
sewing patterns for your dream clothes?

THE FUNDAMENTALS
of PATTERN CUTTING

WHAT’S NEXT?
Mini-Course

Click here for more info

© The Sewing Retreat 14

 Follow me on Instagram to learn lots of
great sewing and pattern cutting tips and
tricks as well as to be first to hear about my
next courses
@thesewingretreat

See you over there,

© The Sewing Retreat 15