Superimposed Seams
Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are
Superimposed on Each Other
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Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Diagram Class Count
Seaming two plies using 100cl,
SSa 1 or 2
300cl, 400cl, or 500cl
Seaming two plies with one edge
SSb 1 or 2
folded using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies with a finished
SSc 1 or 2
edge 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies using 100cl,
SSd 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies with finished
SSe 2 edge in two steps using 100cl, 300cl,
or 400cl
Bottom Coverstitch Seaming on two
SSf 2
plies using 406cl, 502cl, or 506cl
Bottom Coverstitch Seaming on two
SSh 2 plies 100cl, 300cl,or 400cl AND
103cl
Seaming three plies Raw edge finish
SSj 1 or 2 where center ply may be ribbon
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies where center
SSk 1 ply may be folded edge finish using
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Clean finish Seaming of two plies
SSl 1
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Joining two Plies using 100cl, 300cl,
SSm 2
or 400cl
Clean finish Seaming of two plies
SSn 1 or 2 folded to one face using 100cl, 300cl,
or 400cl
Seaming two plies using 100cl,
SSp 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies using 100cl,
SSq 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies using 100cl,
SSr 1
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies using 100cl,
SSs 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies using 100cl,
SSt 2
300cl, or 400cl
Clean finish Edge Seam with Third
SSu 2 ply as tape using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Internal Seaming of two plies using
SSv 1 or 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies with edges folded
SSw 2 in two passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in two passes
SSx 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies in two passes
SSy 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Butt Seaming two plies in two or
SSz 3 three passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies using 100cl,
SSaa 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSab 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSac 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSad 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies with using 100cl,
SSae 2 300cl, or 400cl
known as "French Seam"
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSaf 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSag 3
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSah 3
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSaj 3
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSak 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSal 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSam 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSan 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSao 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSap 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSaq 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSar 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSas 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSat 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSau 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSav 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSaw 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSax 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSay 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSaz 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSba 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSbb 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSbc 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSbd 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSbe 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSbf 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSbg 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSbh 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Lapped Seams
Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are
Superimposed and/or Folded on Each Other
Seam Needle Typical Uses and Stitch
Click to Download the Diagram
Class Count Types
Overlap seam of two plies at
LSa 1 or 2 edges using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Overlap seam of two plies
LSb 1 or 2 with one edge folded using
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Flat Felled Seam using
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Attachment
LSc 1, 2 or 3
Seaming of two plies where
one ply is folded and set in
LSd 1 or 2
the middle of the other using
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming Three plies with
finished edges where two
LSe 1 or 2 plies lay in one direction
(Yoke stitch) using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming Three plies with
finished edges where two
LSf 1 plies lay in one direction
(Yoke stitch) using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies with
finished edges (Shirt
LSg 2
Placket) 100cl, 300cl,or
400cl
Seaming three plies with
finished edges and
LSj 2
interfacing (Shirt Placket)
100cl, 300cl,or 400cl
Seaming two plies with
finished edges (simple Shirt
LSk 2
Placket) 100cl, 300cl,or
400cl
Seaming three plies with
LSl 2 finished edges 100cl, 300cl,
or 400cl
Seaming two plies with
finished edges and
LSm 2 interfacing (simple Shirt
Placket) using 100cl, 300cl,
or 400cl
Two plies clean finished
LSn 1 or 2 folded and bound using
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies using
LSp 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies using
LSq 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies using
LSr 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies in two
LSs 2 steps using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies using
LSt 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies where
one binds the other two
?LSu 2
behind the face 100cl, 300cl,
or 400cl
Seaming two plies where
LSv 1 or 2 face binds the second ply
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming four plies where
one ply wraps around two
LSw 4 facing plies, bound to
another ply using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies with
LSx 2 raw edges in two passes
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies with
clean finish edges in two
LSy 2
passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies using
LSz 3
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies with
LSaa 3 raw edges using 100cl, 300cl,
or 400cl
Seaming three plies with
LSab 3 clean finish using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies bound
LSac 2 with raw edges using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies bound
LSad 2 with raw edges using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies in two
passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
LSae 2
400cl
"Stitched Pleat"
Seaming two plies using
LSaf 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies clean
LSag 2 finish using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies using
LSah 1 or 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies clean
LSaj 1 or 2 finish using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies in two
LSak 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies as a
LSal 2 placket using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies as a
LSam 2 placket with interfacing
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies as a
LSan 2 placket with interfacing
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies clean
LSap 1 or 2 finish using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies clean
LSaq 1 or 2 finish using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming four plies using
LSar 1 or 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies using
LSas 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies with seam
LSat 2 tape using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies using
LSau 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies using
LSav 4
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies in three
LSaw 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies using
LSay 4
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies with
LSaz 4 raw edges using 100cl, 300cl,
or 400cl
Seaming three plies in two
LSbb 4 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies using
LSbc 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming four plies in two
LSbd 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming four plies in two
LSbe 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies clean
LSbf 2 finish using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies using
LSbg 1 or 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies using
SSbh 1 or 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies using
LSbj 1 or 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies using
LSbk 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies in two
LSbl 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies in three
passes using two of 100cl,
300cl,
LSbm 3 or 400cl and one 500cl stitch
Sometimes known as "mock
felling"
Seaming three plies in two
LSbn 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies in two
LSbo 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in two
LSbp 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in two
LSbq 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in three
LSbr 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming four plies with raw
LSbs 1 or 2 edges using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in two
LSbt 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies using
LSbu 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies in three
LSbv 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming four plies in three
LSbw 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in three
LSbx 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies using
LSby 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies in three
LSbz 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies in two
LSca 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming five plies in two
LScb 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in two
LScc 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming four plies in three
LScd 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies in two
LSce 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in two
LScf 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in two
LScg 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in two
LSch 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in three
LScj 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in two
LSck 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in two
LScl 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in two
LScm 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in two
LScn 3 or three passes using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl
Seaming three plies in three
LSco 4 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in three
LScp 4 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in three
LScq 4 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in three
LScr 4 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies in two
LScs 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies in two
LSct 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies in two
LScu 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies in two
LScw 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in two
LScx 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies in two
LScy 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming seven plies in two
LScz 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming two plies using
LSda 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies in two
LSdb 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Seaming three plies using
LSdd 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Seaming two plies in two
LSdo 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
Bound Seams
Seams in which One Ply of Fabric is sewn over the edge
of Two or More Plies of Fabric
Right Click and select
Seam Needle
Save to Download Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count
the Diagram
Binding over the edge of one ply
BSa 1 or 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of one ply
BSb 1 or 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of one ply
BSc 1 or 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of two plies
SSd 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of two plies
BSe 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of one ply
BSf 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of one ply
BSg 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of two plies
BSh 3
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of one ply
BSj 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of one ply
BSk 1 or 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of one ply
BSl 4
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of one ply
BSm 3
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of one ply
SSn 4
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of one ply
BSp 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of two plies
BSq 3
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of one ply
BSr 3
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Binding over the edge of one ply
BSs 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
Flat Seams
Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are Sewn
Together at the Edges
Right Click &
Seam Needle
Save to Download Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count
the Diagram
Coverstitch Seaming two plies
FSa 4
using 606cl, or 607cl
Coverstitch Seaming two plies
FSb 2
using 602cl, or 603cl
Coverstitch Seaming two plies
FSc 2
using 602cl, or 603cl
Seaming two plies using 602cl, or
FSd 4
603cl, then 300cl, or 400cl
Coverstitch Seaming two plies
FSe 2
using 602cl, or 603cl
Coverstitch Seaming two plies
FSf 2
using 602cl, or 603cl
Edge Finish Stitching
Fabric Edge is Finished with Stitching
Right Click and
Seam Needle
Save to Download Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count
the Diagram
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFa 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFb 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFc 1
300cl, or 400cl
Finishing one ply using 500cl
EFd 1 or 2
"Serging"
Finishing one ply using 500cl
EFe 1 or 2
"Serging" Variation
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFf 1 or 2
300cl,400cl or 600cl
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFg 2
300cl, or 400cl
EFh 1 or 2 Finishing one ply using 406cl
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFj 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Finishing one ply using
EFk 2
100cl,300cl, or 400cl
EFl 2 Finishing one ply using 406cl
Finishing one ply using 103cl
EFm 1 or 306cl
Blindstitch Hem
Finishing two plies using 100cl,
EFn 2 300cl, or 400cl
Example; Belt Make
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFp 1 or 2 300cl, or 400cl
Example; Belt Make
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl
EFq 2
Reinforced Hem with
Interlining
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl
EFr 2
Reinforced Hem with
Interlining
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFs 2 300cl, or 400cl
Example; Belt Make
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFt 2
300cl, or 400cl
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFu 2 300cl, or 400cl
"Spagetti Strap"
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFv 2
300cl, or 400cl
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFw 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFx 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFy 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFz 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFaa 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
EFab 2 Finishing one ply using 602cl
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFac 1 or 2 300cl, or 400cl
Make Belt
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFad 2 300cl, or 400cl
Make Belt
EFae 1 or 2 Finishing one ply using 500cl
Finishing one ply using 500cl,
EFaf 3
then 602cl
Finishing one ply using 500cl,
EFag 3
then 602cl
Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFah 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
Ornamental Stitching
Ornamental Stitching is Stitches Sewn on One Ply of
Fabric
Right Click &
Seam Needle
Save to Download Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count
the Diagram
Decorative Stitching using
OSa 1 to ?
100cl, 300cl, 400cl or 600cl
Decorative Stitching using
cording
OSb 1 or 2 Sometimes called "Pin-tuck"
with Cording
Using 304cl or 406cl stitch
Decorative Stitching
OSc 1 or 2 sometimes called "Pin-tuck"
Using 304cl or 406cl stitch
Tuck stitching with Cording
and Backer
OSd 2
using dual 101cl, 301cl, or
401cl stitch
Side Tuck Stitching using
OSe 1
101cl, 301cl, or 401cl stitch
"Stitch-Crease" stitching using
OSf 2
301cl stitch
Self-Stripe Trim using 100cl,
OSg 2
300cl, or 400cl stitch
Piping Trim using 100cl, 300cl,
OSh 2
or 400cl stitch
