Japan Travel Guide for Explorers
Japan Travel Guide for Explorers
                                                                   Overview
Japan Overview	3                  Osaka	29
Top 10 experiences in Japan	 3    Must see & do	      30
Japanese cuisine	             6   Outdoor activities	 32
Cultural highlights	          7   Nightlife	33
                                                                   Tokyo
Etiquette and faux pas	       9   One-day itinerary	  34
Language and phrases	        10   Getting around	     35
Is Japan safe?	              11
Getting around	              13   Hiroshima	36
                                                                   Kyoto
Visas and vaccinations	      15   Must see & do	     37
                                  Nightlife	39
Tokyo	16                          One-day itinerary	 40
Must see & do	      17            Getting around	    41
Outdoor activities	 18                                             Osaka
Nightlife	19                      Okinawa	42
One-day itinerary	  20            Must see & do	      43
                                                                   Hiroshima
                                                                   2
Welcome!
Japan is a treasure-trove of amazing and unique
experiences. There’s breathtaking landscape,
awe-inspiring temples, world-famous cuisine…
there’s something for everyone and a new
discovery every time you visit.
                                                                                 Contents
                                                         Tokyo
                                         Kyoto
                                                                 Breathtaking
                                                 Osaka
                        Hiroshima
                                                                 landscape,
                                                                                 Overview
                                                                 awe-inspiring
                                                                 temples,
                                                                 world-famous
                                                                 cuisine.
                                                                                 Tokyo
                                                                                 Kyoto
         Okinawa
                                                                                 Osaka
Explore the Bamboo
Forest of Arashiyama
                                                                                 Hiroshima
                                                                                 3
Stay at a traditional Ryokan
Though slightly pricier than other
accommodation options, these uniquely
Japanese inns offer a glimpse into
Japan’s rich cultural heritage. Often
accompanied with tatami beds and a
traditional Japanese breakfast, many
Ryokans will also have an in-house onsen
for guests. Just make sure you brush up
on your onsen etiquette.
                                                                                                              Contents
with white sand beaches and clear blue
waters teeming with life. If you’re a diver,
you’ll be spoilt for choice here. One
place on top of our dive list is Yonagui,
                                                                                                              Overview
an ancient underwater rock formation
shrouded in mystery. Some say it’s             topped with your choice of ingredients.
natural, truthers claim aliens. Either way,    Popular toppings include green onion,
it’s worth seeing for yourself.                pork belly or octopus (its name does
                                                                                              Ryokans
                                                                                              offer a
                                                                                                              Tokyo
                                               literally mean “your choice grill”) and it’s
Try Okonomiyaki                                all drizzled in a savoury-sweet sauce.         glimpse
fresh off the grill                            Itadakimasu!                                   into Japan’s
Originating from Osaka, this tasty (and                                                       rich cultural
surprisingly filling) street food can be       Visit Hiroshima Peace Park                     heritage.
                                                                                                              Kyoto
found nationwide. This grilled, savoury        History gets pretty real in the park’s
pancake, is made of a thin layer of batter     Peace Memorial Museum, with exhibits
mixed with shredded cabbage and                of burnt-out school uniforms of kids
                                               who disappeared after the attack, and
                                               photos of hibakusha, people who were                           Osaka
                                               exposed to the bomb’s radiation. It’s a
                                               difficult museum to see, but it carries an
                                                                                                              Hiroshima
                                                                                                              4
                                                experience from a market visit through
                                                to enjoying a home-cooked meal at your
                                                host’s home.
                                                                                             You’ll want
                                                                                             to bring
                                                Karaoke in Tokyo                             an extra
                                                Because, well… you’re in Japan. Find         memory
                                                yourself a nomihodai, a Japanese all-you-    card for the
                                                can-drink bar with karaoke, and channel      camera.
                                                your inner diva.
                                                Hike Mt Fuji
                                                During its climbing season (early July
stage. Built in 780, it rises 13m above         to mid-September), this iconic, 3,776m
                                                                                                            Contents
the hillside below and is built entirely        volcano, attracts up to 10,000 people per
without nails. Though its impressive            day. The hike takes about 4-8h to reach
architecture draws crowds all year              the top and half that time to come back
round, we recommend going during the            down. The views here are legendary for
                                                                                                            Overview
cherry blossom season, or late autumn,          a reason. If you want to escape the busy
when it bursts with stunning colour.            hiking trials and just enjoy the sights of
You’ll want to bring an extra memory            Mt. Fuji, you could also opt to hike Mt.
card for the camera.                            Ashitaka, Mt. Kuro or Mt. Ryuu-ga-
                                                take, to experience it in all its beauty.
                                                                                                            Tokyo
Cycle around Ohara
The village of Ohara is just 20km north of
Kyoto and is best explored by bicycle. It’s
a relatively easy route that should take
                                                                                                            Kyoto
around 2h, with some uphill climbs, but
you’ll be rewarded with picturesque rural
views. Once here, explore the temple
complex at Sanzenin, browse the quaint
shops selling local crafts and don’t miss the                                                               Osaka
scenic Otonoashi Waterfall. There are
also a few hot spring inns here if you want
                                                                                                            Hiroshima
                                                                                                            5
Japanese
Cuisine
Japanese food is rightfully
famous, and washoku – or
Japanese cuisine – was even
named a UNESCO intangible
cultural heritage item in 2014.
Rich in flavours and nutrients,
traditional Japanese cuisine
is based around super-fresh,
seasonal produce.
                                                                                                         Contents
Main dishes
Most travellers would have tried sushi,
but, oh, that’s just the beginning. If
                                                                                                         Overview
you love seafood, sashimi – raw, thinly
sliced seafood and other meats – is a                       Japanese street food
must, especially in seaside destinations                    Don’t even get us started with the
like Hiroshima and Fukuoka.
                                              Most          street food. Yakitori, chargrilled
                                              travellers
                                                                                                         Tokyo
If cooked and warm foods are more                           skewers of meat, perfect with an
your thing, ramen, udon, and soba are         would         ice-cold Asahi Beer, are served in
the three main wheat-based noodle             have tried    izakayas and street stalls everywhere.
dishes found across Japan. All three can      sushi, but,   Okonomiyaki and Takoyaki – savoury
be served in a bowl of hot noodle soup,       oh, that’s    pancakes and flavoured batter balls
                                                                                                         Kyoto
but soba can also be served cold. These       just the      with octopus, respectively – are also
all go great with a fresh plate of lightly-   beginning.    local favourites.
fried Tempura. These batter-coated
seafood or fresh vegetables are served                      Desserts and sweets
with a soy-flavoured dipping sauce, or                      Sweet treats are a big part of Japanese      Osaka
floated in a bowl of noodles.                               food culture. Taiyaki, a fish-shaped
  Speaking of warming broths, don’t                         waffle with a variety of sweet fillings
                                                                                                         Hiroshima
miss shabu-shabu, a decadent dish                           such as red beans, custard, and chocolate
where platters of marbled meats,                            are a traditional favourite. It's often
vegetables and noodles are cooked                           sold at festivals alongside Daifuku, a
in a bubbling broth at the table. It’s                      chewy rice cake filled with red bean
perfect for the winter months. As are                       paste. Finally, you can’t miss matcha, or
                                                                                                         Okinawa
Tonkatsu, breaded and deep-fried pork                       green tea, one of Japan’s most famous
cutlets, laid over a bed of rice and can be                 products, which are available in a variety
drizzled in Japanese curry.                                 of sweets, snacks and confectionaries.
                                                                                                         6
Cultural
Highlights
With a history dating back to
the 7th century BCE, Japan
has a rich and multi-faceted
cultural heritage. Despite
the country’s famous love of
modernity, it has still managed
to keep many of its traditions
alive. Travellers can explore
millennia-old shrines and
                                                                                                       Contents
temples, only a stone’s throw
away from the city’s dizzying
skyscrapers.
                                                                                                       Overview
Shintoism and
Buddhism in Japan                             and one of the country’s oldest forms
Though often regarded as a private,           of entertainment. Generally consisting
family affair, Shintoism and Buddhism         of all male actors, Kabuki is a highly-
                                                                                        People turn
                                                                                        to religious
                                                                                                       Tokyo
teachings permeate Japanese social            polished performance, distinctive due
and cultural values. That’s why you’ll        to their extravagant make up, elaborate   rituals only
see Shinto shrines and Buddhist               backdrops, and unique Japanese            during key
temples happily coinciding next to each       musical instruments.                      moments of
other. You’ll also notice its influences in     Noh, on the other hand, is less         celebration.
                                                                                                       Kyoto
architecture, art and design throughout       radical, with less extravagant make up,
Japan’s history.                              scene changes, and backdrops. Due
  Despite its influences, religion is         to its Shinto origins and its historic
rarely discussed in everyday life. Most       performance in shrines, it’s much more
people turn to religious rituals only         serene, simplistic, and really quite a                   Osaka
during key moments of celebration,            spiritual experience, centered around
such as birth, marriage, and death.           masks and rhythm.
                                                                                                       Hiroshima
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                                                           Onsen and hot springs
                                                           Onsen have long been used as
                                             Contrary to   communal bath houses, and as
                                             Hollywood     venues for healing and recreation.
                                             belief,       Today, the widespread availability
                                             Geishas       of personal bath-tubs and showers,
                                             were never    coupled with the hectic lifestyles of
                                             courtesans.   modern Japanese, have contributed
                                                           to the decline of onsen as daily
                                                           cleaning facilities. However, they
                                                           are still famed and widely used for
                                                           their healing capabilities, which
If your trip doesn’t line up with one of                   vary depending on the type and
                                                                                                   Contents
these tournaments, you can always                          composition of the onsen.
attend a morning training session                            Onsens are all over Japan, but If
instead. Just be on your best behaviour,                   you’re looking for something a little
as the requirements to watch are quite                     more special, it’s best to get out of
                                                                                                   Overview
strict with audiences.                                     the main cities. Traditional onsen
                                                           locations such as Hakone outside
Geisha and maiko                                           Tokyo and Beppu in the more
Contrary to Hollywood belief, Geishas                      southerly Oita Prefecture are
                                                                                                   Tokyo
were never courtesans. Instead, working                    always great choices.
alongside the oldest profession, Geishas
sought to provide entertainment
through the art of conversation, charm,
music, dance and poetry.
                                                                                                   Kyoto
  And while we’re debunking myths,
the popular image of an elegant figure
with white make-up, red lips, elaborate
hairstyles and ornate kimonos is actually
more typical of a maiko – a trainee                                                                Osaka
geisha. Fully-qualified geishas (or geiko)
are likely more subdued, relying on their
                                                                                                   Hiroshima
                                                                                                   8
                                             noise to a minimum. Loud behaviour is
Etiquette                                    usually frowned upon because it invades
                                                                                                          Contents
This is the most common mistake. There’s     the go. Sitting while eating shows one       you really in
a reason the entrance of each house has      appreciates their food.                      that much
a spot for your shoes. Some restaurants        Smoking on the street is illegal too.      of a hurry
might ask you to do the same too, so         Instead, head towards a clearly marked       anyway?
                                                                                                          Overview
make sure your socks have no holes.          “Smoking area” to light up.
  Toilets are generally regarded as            People generally follow rules when
“unclean” areas, so many homes and even      crossing the road, but occasionally,
some public toilets have slippers lined up   people do cross on red signals –
                                                                                                          Tokyo
at their entrances. Just make sure you       especially in the city. Remember
use these when you’re inside the toilet      that rules are in place to keep you
area only!                                   safe. Are you really in that much of a
                                             hurry anyway?
Blowing your nose is… rude?
                                                                                                          Kyoto
Believe it or not, sniffling is preferred    Chopsticks and rules
over blowing your nose in public. If you     at the dinner table
have to blow your nose, find a private       If there’s one thing you take away,
spot like the toilet. The idea of blowing    remember to never use your own
your nose is repulsive to some. It goes      chopsticks to grab food from a                               Osaka
without saying, hold onto your tissues       communal dish, unless you have the
until you find a bin.                        “OK” from everyone on the table. One
                                                                                                          Hiroshima
wait and always let others disembark         another or sticking them upright inside
before you get on.                           bowls are BIG no-nos – this is reserved
  Once you’re on board, try to keep          for funeral rites.
                                                                                                          9
Language
and Phrases
Japan’s language barrier is a
common misconception. As
all Japanese students study
English for a minimum of six
years in secondary school,
most Japanese locals will
speak at least a little English.
Sometimes, you might find
that people are hesitant to
                                                                                               Contents
try their English on you, but
you’ll likely find that you can
communicate in basic English
in a huge variety of situations
                                                                                               Overview
while traveling around Japan.
With that out of the way, it’s still       Useful Japanese Phrases
useful (not to mention polite), to learn
                                           Hello: konnichiwa
                                                                                               Tokyo
a few Japanese phrases. You’ll find
that people are more likely to open        Thank You:
up to you and, especially the older        Arigatou gozaimasu or simply, (informal) arigatou
generation, more likely to share their     Excuse Me/I’m Sorry: Sumimasen
fascinating stories with you.
                                                                                               Kyoto
                                           Please: Onegai shimas
  For more useful travel phrases and
an audio guide to pronunciation, don’t     My Name is “X”: Watashi wa “X”
forget to check out our World Nomads       I would like “X”, please: “X” o kudasai
Japanese Language Guide app,
                                                                                               Osaka
                                           Where is the “X”:
available for iOS and Android.
                                           “X” wa doko desu ka? or, (informal) doko deska?
                                           Do you have a room?: Oheya aitemas ka?
                                                                                               Hiroshima
                                                                                                          Contents
safety before your Japanese
adventure begins.
Yakuza (gokudō)
                                                                                                          Overview
and crime in Japan
Despite popular belief, Japan is not                       financial sector. While they have a
immune from organised crime – the                          large presence in Japan, it should be
Japanese call their version of this                        noted that they are unlikely to harm or
organisation the yakuza. Known for their
                                                                                                          Tokyo
                                                           target tourists.
discipline and their widespread presence,                    In saying this, you should still exercise
they are not to be underestimated.                         the usual amount of caution that you
  The yakuza are responsible for many                      would in your home country.
different criminal syndicates in Japan,
                                                                                                          Kyoto
ranging from petty gambling and                            Drink-spiking in Japan
prostitution circles, to having power in                   While Japan has a busy and exciting night
the Japanese media, politics, and in the                   scene, particularly in cities like Tokyo
                                                           and Kyoto, there has been an increase in
                                                           reported incidents of drink-spiking over       Osaka
                                                           the past few years.
                                            While the        These occurrences, in some instances,
                                            yakuza
                                                                                                          Hiroshima
                                            to harm        unattended.
                                            or target        Solo female travellers should be
                                            tourists.      especially careful, as they can be a perfect
                                                                                                          11
target for these attacks. In saying this,
practicing a bit of common sense and
being aware of drink-spiking dangers will
                                            If you’re
go a long way.                              out in
                                            the open,
Earthquake safety                           crouch
Each year, there are around 1,500           down on
earthquakes in Japan, so the locals are     the ground
used to a few trembles. That doesn’t        and cover
mean you shouldn’t stay alert.              your head.
  A big part of staying safe is to have
easy access to accurate information. A
few extra seconds of warning can give                    until the earthquake stops.
                                                                                                        Contents
you all the time you need to prepare                       Falling debris from rooftops after an
for an earthquake. Stay connected                        earthquake is a common cause of injury,
and download a free Earthquake Early                     so don’t go outside. If you’re out in the
Warning app.                                             open, crouch down on the ground and
                                                                                                        Overview
  If you do find yourself in an                          cover your head.
earthquake, take shelter under a sturdy
piece of furniture or under a doorway. If                LGBT travellers in Japan
there is nowhere to hide, cover your head                Japanese society places more emphasis
                                                                                                        Tokyo
with something like a pillow. Don’t move                 on group identity and values than
                                                         personal expression. Sexuality — homo
                                                         or hetero — is considered a private
                                                         matter; It’s not flaunted with public
                                                         displays of affection, or discussed.
                                                                                                        Kyoto
                                                           Because of this, much of local gay life
                                                         is not just hidden — it’s inaccessible. This
                                                         is even more so for lesbians in Japan,
                                                         who remain invisible.
                                                           That said, homosexuality is legal            Osaka
                                                         in Japan and Japanese travel providers
                                                         are also starting to recognise the gay
                                                                                                        Hiroshima
                                                         travel market.
                                                           If you know where to look, LGBTQI+
                                                         safe bars and spaces are aplenty,
                                                         especially in Tokyo. So do a little
                                                         homework before you go, or join a
                                                                                                        Okinawa
                                                                                                        12
Getting
Around
Travelling around Japan
is exciting, mysterious
and awe-inspiring, but it
doesn’t have to be difficult
or unsafe. From mastering
Japan’s biggest cities, to
shooting through mountain
ranges on the shinkansen
bullet train, or sleeping
                                                                                                   Contents
toe-to-toe with Japanese
families on a ferry, there
are a myriad of options to
get around.
                                                                                                   Overview
Inner-city trains/metro                    Taxis
In Japanese cities, the rail and metro     These are everywhere in Japan, and
systems are often the easiest ways to      their distinctive look makes them easy
                                                                                     Typically,
                                                                                     trains,
                                                                                                   Tokyo
travel. You can usually buy multiple-      to pick outside train stations and on
day passes, making it even more            the streets. However, they are by far     metro
convenient. Rail staff operate at all      the most expensive mode of transport      and trams
ticket gates and are generally very        in Japan, so think twice before           are more
helpful to foreign tourists.               ordering a taxi from Tokyo’s Shinjuku     convenient
                                                                                                   Kyoto
                                           station to Narita airport, for example,   and clearly
Trams                                      a journey which will set you back an      signposted.
Several major cities including             eye-watering USD$240.
Hiroshima, Kumamoto and Nagasaki
have tram systems, which are a great       Shinkansen                                              Osaka
way to get around. These cities often      One of the best ways to travel if you
offer 1-3 day passes which allow you       want to get to your destination with
                                                                                                   Hiroshima
                                                                                                   13
                                          way to travel around Japan is with a
                                          ticket called the Seishun 18 Kippu.
                                          This ticket is unbelievably good
                                          value for money compared to other
                                          modes of transport, giving you 5 non-
                                          consecutive days of unlimited rail
                                          travel, excluding shinkansen trains. It is
                                          only available at certain times of year
                                          though, so make sure to check the
                                          website to help plan your trip.
                                          Ferry
                                          Japan consists of thousands of
                                                                                       Contents
                                          islands, and you can catch ferries
                                          from many of the larger cities such
                                          as Tokyo and Osaka. Many ferries
                                          even have uniquely Japanese features
                                                                                       Overview
                                          like public bath houses. Overnight
Pass, which is available to those on      ferries involve sleeping in a room full
tourist visas and gives you unlimited     of Japanese families, which is a great
rail access to all but the fastest        way to see a slice of Japanese life,
                                                                                       Tokyo
shinkansen for 7-21 days. It can only     but bring ear plugs in case you end up
be bought before arriving in Japan.       next to granddad.
Be advised though — without the JR
pass, shinkansen tickets are pricey. If
speed is your priority and you don’t
                                                                                       Kyoto
have a rail pass, domestic flights will
almost certainly be cheaper.
Night buses
These are a very low-cost option, and                                                  Osaka
leave stations of metropolitan areas
in the evening, arriving first thing in
                                                                                       Hiroshima
Express trains
For those with more time on their
hands, by far the most economical
                                                                                       14
Visas and
Vaccinations
In the excitement of finding
cheap flights and planning trips
to temples and sumo matches,
it's easy to forget mundane
things such as checking your
visa requirements or getting
your shots. Here’s what you
need to know.
                                                                                                        Contents
Visas for short visits
Travellers from Australia, New Zealand,
the UK, US, and some European
countries are covered by the Reciprocal
                                                                                                        Overview
Visa Exemption Arrangements with
Japan. Holders of these passports may        types of visas issued by Japan,
enter as a “Temporary Visitors”. and visas   it’s impossible to list all of these
are not required for a timeframe shorter     requirements here.
                                                                                        There are
                                                                                        no vaccines
                                                                                                        Tokyo
than 90 days. To see if your country is         Be aware, however, that Japanese
covered, check the Japanese Ministry of      working visas are only issued to           required to
Foreign Affairs website.                     applicants with a high level of            visit Japan.
                                             knowledge in skilled professions. For      However,
Visas for longer visits                      specific details, get in touch with your   it’s always a
                                                                                                        Kyoto
As of the 23rd June 2015, travellers can     closest Japanese embassy.                  good idea to
stay for up to 12 months in Japan for                                                   take some
tourism and recreational purposes under      Vaccinations                               basic health
Japan's Longer Stays program.                There are no vaccines required to visit    precautions.
   The basics are that you need to be        Japan. However, it’s always a good idea                    Osaka
over 18, have no accompanying children,      to take some basic health precautions
have private medical travel insurance,       before traveling.
                                                                                                        Hiroshima
                                                                                                        15
                                                  Contents
                                                  Overview
                                                  Tokyo
TOKYO                                             Kyoto
                                                  Osaka
A
        s well as being Japan’s capital and the
        world’s most densely-populated city,
        Tokyo is famous for combining the
                                                  Hiroshima
Must See
and Do                                                                                   Although
                                                                                         the palace
                                                                                         itself
North-East Tokyo                                                                         remains
Visit Senjoji, Tokyo’s oldest temple.                                                    closed for
On the way there, stop off at the food
                                                                                         most of
stalls to grab a treat and buy some
                                                                                         the year, it
handmade maneki neko (good luck
                                                                                         opens its
charms).
                                                                                         gates to
  North-East Tokyo is famous for its
                                                                                         the public
sumo schools, which regularly hold
sumo-wrestling tournaments. If you’re        all, it’s the hotspot for J-Pop, and
                                                                                         during the
                                                                                                        Contents
visiting during the off-season, you might    fashion, and also the home of Meiji
                                                                                         Emperor’s
still be able to catch one of the practice   Jingu, Tokyo’s most important shrine.
                                                                                         New Year’s
matches.                                       Shinjuku, to the north of Harajuku, is    speech.
  The Edo Tokyo Museum, which                the more affordable rival of Ginza. It’s
                                                                                                        Overview
exhibits life in Tokyo both past and         a favourite shopping district for locals.
present, is another must-see in the area.    Here, you’ll will find the narrow alley,
                                             known as Golden Gai, which is famous
Central Tokyo                                for its small restaurants and pubs with
In the heart of Tokyo lies the Imperial
                                                                                                        Tokyo
                                             excellent food. For an unforgettable
Palace, surrounded by the high-rises of      night out, Roppongi is packed with
Tokyo’s business districts. Although the     clubs – and people – or Ni-Chome,
palace itself remains closed for most        Tokyo’s queer-friendly district, are
of the year, it opens its gates to the       definitely the places to go.
                                                                                                        Kyoto
public during the Emperor’s New Year’s
speech, and in autumn to view the            Southern Tokyo
season’s changing colours.                   For anime and robot enthusiasts, the
  Don’t miss Ginza, a bustling               Odaiba district, with its full-scale
commercial district with many brand          Gundam statue, is a must-visit. Make                       Osaka
stores and, more importantly, the            sure you take a seflie in front of the
Kabuki-za theatre. Kabuki, a classical,      mechanical giant!
                                                                                                        Hiroshima
                                                                                                        17
TOKYO
                                                                                                      Contents
Tokyo by bike                             and Mt. Takao
There are some set cycling courses        At the western of edge of Tokyo, still
in places like Yoyogi Park or the         within the city limits in the Tama region,
Imperial Palace, but it’s also a treat    are Mt. Mitake and Mt. Takao, two
                                                                                                      Overview
to just get lost and explore the          popular spots for people who want to
alleys and backstreets of random          get in some more serious hiking.
neighbourhoods.                             Both can be reached by train from
  You’re sure to turn up some gems        central Tokyo in about an hour or so.
                                                                                                      Tokyo
like small temples, neighbourhood         From here you can hike or take a cable
bars, and old shopping streets.           car up the mountain. You’ll find more
There are many places to rent a           walking trails, ancient shrines and
bicycle. Just beware not to ride by       temples, beautiful flora and fauna, and
yourself after dark.                      stunning views of both Tokyo city and
                                                                                                      Kyoto
                                          distant Mt. Fuji.
Urban hot springs at
Ooedo Onsen Monogatari                    Diving Ogasawara
Even in Tokyo, you can experience         The Ogasawara Islands lay a
Japanese-style communal bathing in        thousand miles south of Tokyo, yet                          Osaka
places like Ooedo Onsen Monogatari,       it’s still considered part of the Tokyo
a large hot spring spa complex            Metropolitan Area.
                                                                                                      Hiroshima
in the open-air pools. Note that, as in   choose from, which can be reached by
most hot springs in Japan, tattoos are    ferry to the main island of Chichijima,
not permitted.                            or “Father Island.”
                                                                                                      18
TOKYO
Nightlife
Izakayas
Izakayas can be found in every suburb,
and are great venues to connect with
locals. Try Zakoya in Shimokitazawa for
a cosy, traditional interior, delicious food
and great sake selection.
Late-night cafes
In the grungy Tokyo suburb of
Shimokitazawa, you’ll find a number
of small bohemian bars, vintage shops,                      venues offer nomihodai. For those who
                                                                                                          Contents
cafes and restaurants, open late along                      believe there is nothing better than the
pedestrian-only streets.
                                               The narrow   combination of unlimited alcohol, cheesy
  Just a few blocks from the izakaya           alleyways    video clips, and horrible singing – this
Zakoya is Café Propaganda. Open until          are lined    place is for you.
                                                                                                          Overview
sunrise on weekends, this laid-back            with           If karaoke isn’t your thing, try Bar Mist
lounge offers large shisha pipes, giant        lanterns,    in Roppongi, which features three hours
antique couches, delicious food and            bar stools   of all-you-can-drink for only ¥1,000.
unique cocktails at any hour.                  and grills
                                               offering     Pecha Kucha
                                                                                                          Tokyo
Yakitori and street food                       authentic    For those of you who don’t know, Pecha
One of Japan’s most deliciously famous         local        Kucha is a series of 20-slide image
street food is yakitori (grilled chicken       cuisine.     presentations, with each slide only
skewers). A fantastic area to get a feel                    appearing for 20 seconds. This monthly
                                                                                                          Kyoto
for this style of eating is Shinjuku’s                      hub of creatives, designers, thinkers and
Omoide Yokocho. The narrow alleyways                        basically anyone with something to say,
are lined with lanterns, bar stools and                     has become a must-see at Roppongi’s
grills offering authentic local cuisine, and                self-proclaimed gallery/lounge/bar/club/
yakitori as the main event.                                 creative kitchen SuperDeluxe.                 Osaka
  A couple of blocks away is the
boozier version of Omoide Yokocho, in                       Bizarre themed restaurants
                                                                                                          Hiroshima
One way to drink on the cheap in                            Robot Restaurant. Both feature crazy
Tokyo is nomihodai, Japanese for ‘all                       entertainment, music, shows, food,
you can drink’. Most late-night karaoke                     and drinks.
                                                                                                          19
TOKYO
One-Day
Itinerary
Street food, lucky charms
and Senjoji Temple
First stop, Asakusa! The district is
Tokyo’s oldest remaining entertainment
area with an Edo-period charm. At the
heart of the district lies Senjoji Temple,
Tokyo’s oldest temple, devoted to the
goddess Kannon. Nakamise street
leading up to Sensoji is lined with
                                                                                                         Contents
countless small shops, selling a variety
of small items and street food. These
make for great souvenirs.
                                                                                                         Overview
Experience Edo culture at
Ueno Park                                    on the JR Yamanote Line brings us
By taking the Ginza Line from Asakusa        to Tokyo Station, tucked in between
to Ueno Station, we arrive at Ueno           Marunouchi and Ginza. The building           Harajuku
Park. One of Tokyo’s most popular                                                         is known
                                                                                                         Tokyo
                                             itself is one of the city’s most important
parks to view cherry blossoms in spring,     symbols, as well as a historic reminder      throughout
it’s also home to a number of temples        of Japan’s modernisation at the brink of     the world as
and shrines.                                 the 20th century.                            the centre
  The most famous spot here is the             While Marunouchi is a business             of teenage
                                                                                                         Kyoto
Tokyo National Museum, which features        district, Ginza is commercial, known for     J-Pop and
national treasures and cultural heritage     its brand stores and Kabuki-za, where        extravagant
items. If you're interested in museums,      you can enjoy a kabuki performance.          fashion.
Edo Tokyo Museum only takes
25min on the Oedo Line from Ueno-            Stroll through the Imperial                                 Osaka
okachimachi to Ryogoku Station.              Palace Gardens
  Ryogoku Kokugikan is also located          The wide road in front of Tokyo station
                                                                                                         Hiroshima
near the station, and if you happen          connects it with the Imperial Palace.
to be in Tokyo at the right time, you        While you cannot visit the palace itself,
could even catch the sumo-wrestling          its East Gardens are open to the public
tournament when it’s held in the city.       and well worth a tour.
                                                                                                         Okinawa
                                                                                                         20
TOKYO
                                                                                                             Contents
                                                                                        to help you
dedicated to Emperor Meiji’s soul and         Before you leave Tokyo, don’t miss        navigate your
that of his wife.                           out on the city’s world-famous dining       journey.
  Take a stroll through the forests of      scene with a delicious dinner in a small
Yoyogi Park surrounding the shrine and      restaurant or pub in Golden Gai.            Buses
                                                                                                             Overview
                                                                                        Buses are
                                                                                        available
                                                                                        throughout
                                                                                        Tokyo, but are
                                                                                        not easy to
                                                                                        use for non-
                                                                                                             Tokyo
                                                                                        Japanese
                                                                                        speakers.
                                                                                        Taxis
                                                                                        The most
                                                                                                             Kyoto
                                                                                        expensive mode
                                                                                        of transport.
                                                                                        Think twice
                                                                                        before ordering
                                                                                        a taxi from
                                                                                                             Osaka
                                                                                        Shinjuku station
                                                                                        to Narita airport,
                                                                                        which will cost
                                                                                        USD$240.
                                                                                                             Hiroshima
                                                                                        Ferries
                                                                                        Used to get to
                                                                                        the man-made
                                                                                        islands of Tokyo
                                                                                        Bay, or travelling
                                                                                                             Okinawa
                                                                                        between
                                                                                        destinations
                                                                                        near water.
                                                                                                             21
                                                               Contents
                                                               Overview
                                                               Tokyo
KYOTO                                                          Kyoto
                                                               Osaka
L
     ocated at the central part of Honshuu island, Kyoto
     was the former capital of Japan for over a thousand
     years. Today, it still retains much of its old-world
                                                               Hiroshima
Must See
and Do
Sanjusangendo
Laying slightly off-the-beaten-path,
Sanjusangendo is located east of
Kyoto Station. Founded in 1164, this
temple is famous for its 1001 statues
of the goddess of mercy, Kannon, in
the 120m wooden hall. The name
literally translates to “33 intervals”,
the traditional method of measuring
                                                                                                  Contents
the size of a building and definitely an
impressive sight to behold.
Kyoto International
                                                                                                  Overview
Manga Museum
More of a library, the manga museum        architecture is one-of-a-kind. In
features a collection of over 300,000      autumn, the grounds are especially
manga that you can read at your            rewarding as the surrounding forests
                                                                                   Located on
                                                                                   the western
                                                                                                  Tokyo
leisure. Don’t worry if you can’t read     change colours, transforming the
Japanese – about 1,000 of these are        scenery.                                outskirt
in English.                                                                        of Kyoto,
                                           Arashiyama                              Arashiyama
Ryoanji                                    Located on the western outskirt of      is a popular
                                                                                                  Kyoto
Famous for its gravel-and-rock Zen         Kyoto, this is a popular destination    destination
garden, Ryoanji is generally regarded      to enjoy nature and the soothing air    to enjoy
as the finest expression of Zen. As        flowing over the river. Its famous      nature
you’re seated on the deck of the head      bamboo grove lets you wander in a       and the
priest's former residence, you won’t be    mystical forest, through which you      soothing air   Osaka
able to see all 15 stones in the garden.   won’t even see the sky.                 flowing over
There’s a lesson there somewhere!                                                  the river.
                                                                                                  Hiroshima
                                           Nijo Castle
Nanzenji                                   Only a few hundred meters away from
Nanzenji is the head temple of one         Kyoto's Imperial Palace, Nijo Castle
of the schools within the Rinzai           was built as a symbol of power for
sector of Japanese Zen Buddhism,           the shogunate – feudal Japan’s last
                                                                                                  Okinawa
                                                                                                  23
KYOTO
                                                                                                    Contents
castle was designed to impress anyone       way through its vermilion torii gates
                                                                                       Cherry
who would come for an audience.             towards the sacred Mt. Inari, which
                                                                                       Blossom
                                            is dedicated to the Shinto god of rice.    Festival.
Ginkakuji                                   Foxes are said to be Inari’s messengers,
                                                                                                    Overview
Known as “The Temple of the Silver          which explains the many fox statues
Pavilion”, Ginkakuji was so named           watching over visitors throughout the
because the moonlight reflecting on         grounds.
the building’s dark exterior was said to      Its tranquillity, charm, and above
                                                                                                    Tokyo
give it a silvery appearance. Take in the   all, beauty, make it hard for anyone to
serenity of the moss garden and enjoy       deny its sheer attractiveness.
the zen of the grounds as you walk
along its famous circular route.
                                                                                                    Kyoto
Kinkakuji
The pavilion used to be part of a vast
retirement residence for shogun
Yoshimitsu, but it was converted
to a Zen temple after his death.                                                                    Osaka
The pavilion’s top two floors are
completely covered in gold leaf and
                                                                                                    Hiroshima
Kiyomizu-dera
The “Temple of Pure Water” is a
                                                                                                    Okinawa
                                                                                                    24
KYOTO
Outdoor                                                                                     A regular
Activities                                                                                  bicycle can
                                                                                            be rented
Arashiyama                                                                                  for as little
There are numerous walking and hiking                                                       as ¥500
paths around Arashiyama, which are                                                          per day.
liberally sprinkled with temples and
traditional gardens, such as Tenryuji,
Gioji, and Katsura Rikyu. Make sure
you visit the monkey park and mingle
(and take selfies) with free-roaming
Japanese macaques.                           part of the way. There are also natural
                                                                                                            Contents
                                             hot springs in the area that allow day
Maruyama Park                                access or overnight stays.
Head over to Maruyama for a stroll
through the classical garden, with paths     Higashiyama by bicycle
                                                                                                            Overview
that wind around ponds reflecting            Higashiyama is a district with plenty
the greenery. In the spring, this is an      to see, and is especially pleasant by
extremely popular spot to do hanami, or      bicycle. Highlights in the area include
cherry blossom viewing.                      the famous temples Kiyomizudera and
                                             Kodaiji, and Yasaka Shrine. The narrow
                                                                                                            Tokyo
Philosopher’s Walk                           streets between them are stuffed with
The narrow stone path from Ginkakuji to      traditional shops and buildings.
Eikando is called Tetsugaku no michi,          A regular bicycle can be rented for as
or Philosopher’s Walk.                       little as ¥500 per day, and if you want
                                                                                                            Kyoto
  The pedestrian path runs under a           an electric bike (to help you with some
procession of cherry trees, along a canal.   of the hills in this district), those go for
In addition to the major temples, the        around ¥2,000.
path is lined with smaller shrines and
temples, a few small cafes, and shops        Sanzenin and Ohara                                             Osaka
offering both traditional and modern art.    by bicycle
                                             For a more ambitious cycling trip, head
                                                                                                            Hiroshima
goblins), and the healing art of reiki is    Otonoashi Waterfall. There are hot
said to have been born here.                 spring inns in the area too if you wish to
  It’s possible to hike up or take a tram    stay overnight.
                                                                                                            25
KYOTO
Nightlife
Bars and clubs
If you’re looking for a more relaxed
evening, Pig and Whistle is the place
to go. This British pub has a good
selection of drinks and food, and it’s a
friendly place to meet locals and other
international travellers!
  You’ll be welcomed with a free
drink on arrival when you step
inside Kitsune nightclub. Filled with
glowsticks and wacky Japanese                             Pontocho is a narrow alley packed
                                                                                                       Contents
entertainment, you’re in for a crazy                      with restaurants, with a wide range of
night. The club is open every day of
                                           Pontocho       options for dining, including traditional
the week, including Sunday nights.         is a narrow    Kyoto cuisine. The atmosphere of this
  For a more chilled out vibe, head        alley          area is worth checking out whether
                                                                                                       Overview
to Jittoku, located in an old sake         packed with    you are looking for a proper meal or
brewery. The Japanese call Jittoku         restaurants,   just a place to relax and have a drink.
a live-house; featuring many live          with a wide
music acts ranging from rock, blues,       range of       Entertainment
                                           options
                                                                                                       Tokyo
Japanese pop, Irish fiddle, electronica,                  There are plenty of market-style stores
and more.                                  for dining,    and food venues to choose from at
                                           including      Shinkyogoku shopping arcade. You
Places to eat                              traditional    could spend hours exploring this area
Kyoto is home to many cheap and            Kyoto          if this is your thing.
                                                                                                       Kyoto
delicious sushi trains. Kappa Sushi        cuisine.         Gear Kyoto is a non-verbal
offers a wide variety and great prices,                   performance, so that both locals and
but for authentic handmade sushi,                         international visitors can enjoy the
Musashi Sushi is a great spot to eat.                     show. The show involves magic, dance,
There are hundreds of cheap sushi                         comedy, and mime. If you’re interested       Osaka
trains to explore, so don’t be afraid to                  in theatre and have a spare night in
try as many as possible.                                  Kyoto, it’s definitely worth checking out.
                                                                                                       Hiroshima
walk by. Dinner hours can get busy for                    gambling. Even if you’re not interested
them, so it’s best to avoid the 6pm-                      in doing any of these things, it’s worth
8pm rush.                                                 visiting the venue just to check it out.
                                                                                                       26
KYOTO
One-Day
Itinerary
Early morning
at Kiyomizu-dera
The uphill path to Kiyomizu-dera gets
congested as the day goes on, but
the temple opens at 6am. This is the
perfect time to enjoy a quiet morning
stroll around the temple, and down to
the Otowa waterfall. Take a moment
to drink its magical waters for luck in
                                                                                                   Contents
love, studies, or for a long life.
  After your visit to the temple,
spend your walk back down sampling
snacks at souvenir shops. We
                                                                                                   Overview
recommend the various flavours of
Yatsuhashi, a triangle-shaped mochi.      Afternoon temple break,
  Near Kiyomizu-dera is your next         Kyoto International Manga
stop, Sanjusangen-do. This Buddhist       Museum, and Nijo Castle                 Most
                                                                                  temples
                                                                                                   Tokyo
temple, built in 1164, houses 1001        Call ahead and make lunch
statues of the goddess of mercy,          reservations at the Samurai Cafe and    stop letting
Kannon. Its name literally means “33      Bar near the International Manga        visitors in 30
intervals”, a traditional method of       Museum. Their popularity makes          min before
measuring the size of a building.         going in on a whim difficult.           closing, so
                                                                                                   Kyoto
  Built without a single nail, this old     After lunch, learn about manga at     keep an
wooden temple has a stunning view         the International Manga Museum.         eye on the
that is especially magical in autumn.     Peruse manga translated from all over   clock. If you
                                          the world and get a portrait done by    manage to
                                          one of their staff artists. Depending   time it right,   Osaka
                                          on the day and time, you can also       the end of
                                          watch manga artists at work.            the day can
                                                                                                   Hiroshima
                                                                                                   27
KYOTO
                                                                                                           Contents
best time to visit. The doors will shut   You can also head over to Kameyama-
behind you, giving you enough time to     koen Park to spot some monkeys, or
                                                                                      around
take pictures at your leisure. Kinkaku-   finish your trip to Kyoto with a walk       Rail and
ji, the Golden Temple, looks absolutely   through the ethereal Kimono Forest.         metro
                                                                                                           Overview
                                                                                      Like Tokyo, the
                                                                                      rail and metro
                                                                                      systems are the
                                                                                      easiest ways
                                                                                      to get around.
                                                                                      Buy multiple-
                                                                                                           Tokyo
                                                                                      day passes for
                                                                                      convenience and
                                                                                      save. Rail staff
                                                                                      operate at all
                                                                                      ticket gates and
                                                                                                           Kyoto
                                                                                      are generally
                                                                                      very helpful to
                                                                                      foreigners.
Buses
                                                                                                           Osaka
                                                                                      These aren’t the
                                                                                      most user-friendly
                                                                                      for non-Japanese
                                                                                      speakers, but it
                                                                                      does cover a large
                                                                                                           Hiroshima
                                                                                      Taxis
                                                                                      By far the most
                                                                                      expensive mode
                                                                                                           Okinawa
                                                                                      of transport in
                                                                                      Japan. Think twice
                                                                                      before hopping in!
                                                                                                           28
                                                                 Contents
                                                                 Overview
                                                                 Tokyo
OSAKA                                                            Kyoto
                                                                 Osaka
D
        espite being Japan’s second-largest city, Osaka is far
        too often overlooked by travellers. But don’t worry,
        we won’t let you make the same mistake. With
                                                                 Hiroshima
Must See
and Do
Shinsekai
Considered one of the dodgiest
areas in Osaka, Shinsekai has a lot
of character – and characters! Visit
at night and choose a kushi-katsu
restaurant. We suggest a smaller one
with plastic chairs outside (in summer)
to best enjoy the view of Tsutenkaku
Tower, a 100m, octagonal construction
                                                                                                    Contents
modelled after the Eiffel Tower. Get
set ordering deep-fried foods on sticks
and you’re in for a top night.
  We recommend plum and shiso
                                                                                                    Overview
chicken, but go crazy and try cheese-
cake, or half-boiled egg. Prices are       neon glare from karaoke bar signs,
usually between ¥80 to ¥100 per stick,     and the run-down, 1980's cyberpunk
and up to ¥500 for a beer – which          atmosphere.
                                                                                     Turn down
                                                                                     a few lanes
                                                                                                    Tokyo
kushi-katsu goes really well with. Don't     Turn down a few lanes off the main
forget to yell okini! (oh-kee-nee “thank   drag to the quiet, cobble-stoned street   off the main
you”) as you leave.                        of restaurants – which the crowds         drag to
                                           never seem to find. For travellers who    the quiet,
Dotonbori                                  prefer people-watching, find a spot       cobble-
                                                                                                    Kyoto
Another sweet night spot is                on Dotonboribashi bridge among            stoned
Dotonbori. See the famous Glico            spiky-haired hosts plying their trade.    street of
man, and the robot crab, revel in the      Beware of the optimistic high school      restaurants
                                           girls attempting to ride their bicycles   – which
                                           through the crowd.                        the crowds     Osaka
                                                                                     never seem
                                           Osaka Castle                              to find.
                                                                                                    Hiroshima
                                                                                                    30
OSAKA
                                                                                                     Contents
                                                         where high school boys run through
                                                         sheets of freezing water to catch
                                                         paper charms, and ensure their luck for
                                                         the year to come.
                                                                                                     Overview
does increase the ease of access for
travellers with walking difficulties.
                                           Black SUVs idle along the street,
                                           reminding nervous tourists that Osaka's
Tobita Shinchi
                                                                                                     Tokyo
Less family-friendly, but interesting
                                           underbelly is watching.
on many levels, is the neighbourhood
of Tobita Shinchi. This large brothel
district remains true to a traditional
                                                                                                     Kyoto
style that has otherwise vanished
from Japan.
  Beautifully dressed prostitutes sit in
the doorways, waiting for customers.
Even in winter, they sit by kerosene                                                                 Osaka
heaters, ensconced in fluffy blankets
that still manage to reveal some skin.
                                                                                                     Hiroshima
Shitennoji
Osaka is not as well known for its
                                                                                                     31
OSAKA
Outdoor
Activities
Picnic among the cherry
blossoms at Tennoji Park
Tennoji Park is a world away from the
hustle and bustle of the city. Situated
in the southern part of the city, the
park is a botanical oasis, right next to
Tennoji Station. Pack yourself a picnic
and take some time to enjoy its natural
beauty. It’s the perfect spot for bike
                                                                                                      Contents
riding, or a leisurely afternoon stroll.
  The best time to visit is in spring,
when the native sakura (cherry blossom)
are in full bloom. You’ll be spoilt for
                                                                                                      Overview
choice on statues, open spaces for
sport, cafés, and restaurants.             card being the Ryuanji Temple, located
                                           at the midpoint of the walk.
Take photos around scenic                                                               The grounds
Minoo Park                                 Osaka Castle and gardens                     of Osaka
                                                                                                      Tokyo
If the inner-city escape of Tennoji Park   Osaka Castle sprawls across sweeping         Castle are
wasn’t enough for you, head further        grounds, which cover over 60,000 sqm.        a sight to
north to the splendour of Minoo            It’s filled with over 600 cherry trees       behold
(Minoh) Park. It’s most well-known for     and boasts a moat tall enough to give a      during
                                                                                                      Kyoto
the walking trail, Takimichi, built in     view over most of the city.                  spring,
1886.                                        The grounds are a sight to behold          when cherry
  Whether you’re an avid hiker or          during spring, when cherry blossoms          blossoms
looking for a casual stroll, Minoo Park    frame the castle in bright pink flowers.     frame
has something for everyone. Its trails     At any time of the year though, It’s still   it with       Osaka
begin with a 2.7km paved walkway, and      a popular walking spot for locals and        bright pink
is easily accessible from the main train   tourists alike.                              flowers.
                                                                                                      Hiroshima
                                                                                                      32
OSAKA
Nightlife
Dotonbori
This is the night-time heart of Osaka,
with its neon lights and hundreds of
eating and drinking establishments.
  The canal that runs through the centre
of the district is flanked on both sides by
cafes, restaurants, bars, and street food
stalls. You'll also find the Shochikuza,
a large old theatre that showcases
traditional arts like kabuki.
  The Zuboraya restaurant is an izakaya                        (savoury cabbage pancake with a wide
                                                                                                             Contents
(Japanese gastropub) specialising in fugu                      range of toppings) washed down with
(blowfish). The potentially poisonous
                                                The canal      shochu, the Japanese distilled liquor.
fish is displayed in tanks out front. Inside,   that runs
the atmosphere is convivial. Fugu is great      through        Shinsekai
                                                                                                             Overview
paired with nihonshu, or sake, and there's      the centre     Shinsekai means “new world” in Japanese,
plenty on offer here.                           of the         and this old neighbourhood looks like
   Another favourite is Kanidoraku, the         district is    what someone envisioned the new world
famous crab izakaya with its enormous,          flanked on     to look like, 100 years ago.
                                                both sides       The Tsutenkaku Tower rises above
                                                                                                             Tokyo
moving 3D crab, beckoning patrons from
the street. Crab dishes go well with both       by cafes,      the city at the centre of the district. The
nihonshu and Japanese beer. For dessert,        restaurants,   nostalgic neighbourhood is a good place
try a crepe from Alcyon Creperie. The           bars, and      to enjoy street food like kushi-katsu (deep
“tanuki” crepe has chestnut cream,              street food    fried food on sticks), whiskey highballs in
                                                                                                             Kyoto
toasted soy powder, and vanilla ice cream       stalls.        tiny dive bars (be sure to order Suntory,
and is our favourite here.                                     which was born and bred in Osaka),
                                                               looking at old-fashioned movie posters
Hozenji Yokocho                                                and antique pachinko parlours.
The name of this little street in the                            Try takoyaki (bits of chopped octopus       Osaka
Dotonbori neighbourhood, a few                                 in a savoury batter grilled in globes the
blocks south of the canal, means “Hozen                        size of a golf ball) at Aji no Daimaru,
                                                                                                             Hiroshima
Temple Alley.” The narrow pathway is                           where you can choose your own
choked with tiny bars and restaurants,                         toppings. Order some Asahi beer to go
many hung with paper chochin lanterns,                         with it — the famous beer company
and runs up to the Hozen Temple.                               originated in Osaka. There's also a spa
  Though the alley is only 80m long and                        complex with real hot spring water and
                                                                                                             Okinawa
2.7m wide, it hosts over 50 shops. Try                         corny themes called Spa World, where
katsudon (pork cutlet over rice) sold at a                     you can relax by getting naked with
shop of the same name, or okonomiyaki                          strangers.
                                                                                                             33
OSAKA
One-Day
Itinerary
Breakfast at Osaka castle
Early morning stillness at Osaka
Castle belies the intense crowds
later in the day. Sit on a bench by the
moat with some coffee and a packet
of hotcakes from a nearby conbini
(convenience store), with a view of
stone walls so massive they seem to
blur in the distance.
                                                                                                       Contents
Dotonbori and
Shinsaibashi shopping
The inner city neighbourhoods around
                                                                                                       Overview
Namba are excellent for random
exploration and discovery. Within the        array of kitchen utensils in Sennichimae
narrow alleys are some of the city's         Doguyasuji Shopping Street, enroute
most multi-cultural dining options           to Namba Parks. Snack on takoyaki           As the
                                                                                         afternoon
                                                                                                       Tokyo
– from New Zealand meat pies, to             (octopus in spheres of savoury batter).
Persian kebabs, with lots of local fare in                                               cools, head
between.                                     Down-time at Namba Parks                    south, and
  Walk along the canals of Dotonbori,        Take some time to chill in Namba            experience
and see Glico man, newly resplendent in      Parks. This shopping district was           a time-warp
                                                                                                       Kyoto
LEDs; hunt for second hand shops, and        beautifully designed with nature in         to Japan's
vinyl records within Shinsaibashi; and       mind, and green terraces break the          Showa era.
then start heading south through the         otherwise grey city sprawl. Nod off
                                             watching a movie, or refill your reserves
                                             in Bagel and Bagel. Surprisingly                          Osaka
                                             enough, its main menu item is bagels,
                                             but they also bake brownies, cookies,
                                                                                                       Hiroshima
and muffins.
                                                                                                       34
OSAKA
have not been renovated since the 80s.     Osaka, and very different to Kabuki-
  First stop, Shitennoji, Japan's          cho in Tokyo. Young women wait
oldest Buddhist temple located 2kms        in the doorways, watched over
                                                                                        In Shinsekai,
south east of Namba Parks. Check           by elderly mama-chan. Foreigners             for a very
the calendars around your arrival          are not encouraged, and neither is           reasonable
date, as this beautiful temple hosts       photography, however walking down            price, you
the occasional flea market. Important      the street is tolerated.                     can eat
seasonal festivals like the goose-           Head directly north towards the            your fill and
bumps inducing Doya Doya Matsuri           iron beacon of Tsutenkaku. The               drink some
are also held in February, when high       tower stands within Shinsekai, a             beers to an
school aged boys, clothed only in loin     neighbourhood that exudes a Blade-           excellent
cloths, run through freezing showers       Runner-esque, slightly tattered glitz.       day.
of water flung on them by their sadistic   It’s the best place in the city for kushi-
                                                                                                             Contents
teachers.                                  katsu (deep-fry on a stick) restaurants,
  Thrills of a different sort abound       and for a very reasonable price, you can     Getting
in Tobita Shinchi, 2kms south. It’s        eat your fill and drink some beers to an     around
the largest prostitution district in       excellent day in Osaka.
                                                                                                             Overview
                                                                                        Rail and
                                                                                        metro
                                                                                        The best way
                                                                                        to get around
                                                                                        Osaka. Purchase
                                                                                        an unlimited,
                                                                                                             Tokyo
                                                                                        1-day pass at
                                                                                        vending machines
                                                                                        in any of the
                                                                                        subway stations
                                                                                        from ¥800 per
                                                                                                             Kyoto
                                                                                        day.
                                                                                        Buses
                                                                                        Like most major
                                                                                        cities, buses are
                                                                                                             Osaka
                                                                                        available, but
                                                                                        they aren’t very
                                                                                        easy to use for
                                                                                        non-Japanese
                                                                                        speakers.
                                                                                                             Hiroshima
                                                                                        Taxis
                                                                                        Taxis are the most
                                                                                        expensive mode
                                                                                        of transport in
                                                                                                             Okinawa
                                                                                        Japan. Think
                                                                                        twice before
                                                                                        hopping in!
                                                                                                             35
                                                 Contents
                                                 Overview
                                                 Tokyo
HIROSHIMA                                        Kyoto
                                                 Osaka
T
        hough most well-known for its
        tragic past, today, Hiroshima is one
        of Japan’s most vibrant cities. Many
                                                 Hiroshima
Must See
and Do
Hiroshima Peace Memorial
Visit the UNESCO World Heritage
site, Hiroshima Peace Memorial,
a.k.a. the A-Bomb dome. It’s located
along the Motoyasu River and also
near Hiroshima Peace Park.
  The fact that the shell of this iconic
building still stands today symbolises
the resilience of Hiroshima after the
                                                                                                      Contents
attack in 1945.
                                                                                                      Overview
Peace Memorial Museum, with
exhibits of burnt-out school uniforms      Momijidani Park
of kids who disappeared after the          The perfect times to visit the park
attack and photos of hibakusha             is during autumn, when the momiji
                                                                                      History
                                                                                      gets pretty
                                                                                                      Tokyo
(people who were exposed to the            (Japanese maple) trees turn a vibrant
bomb’s radiation).                         red, or during spring, when the cherry     real in the
  If this sounds like too much, there      blossoms are in full riot.                 park’s Peace
are many other monuments in the              From the park, you can hike or           Memorial
park to pay your respects, like the        take a cable to the top of Mt. Misen       Museum,
                                                                                                      Kyoto
Children’s Peace Monument.                 for panoramic views of the Seto            with exhibits
                                           Inland Sea.                                of burnt-
Itsukushima                                                                           out school
This island, also known as Miyajima,       Hiroshima Castle                           uniforms
is home to the Itsukushima shrine          Although the original was destroyed        of kids who     Osaka
and its famous red torii gate.             during WWII, the renovated structure       disappeared.
Both appear to float on the sea at         is pretty impressive.
                                                                                                      Hiroshima
freely and although they’re pretty         the perfect picnic spot or feed the
tame, they will steal your food when       koi and turtles that live in the moats
you’re not looking!                        around the castle.
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HIROSHIMA
                                                      Ninoshima
                                                      Ninoshima is another island worth
                                                      checking out. Accessible by ferry
                                                      from Hiroshima Port, it’s home to
                                                      Aki no Kofuji, the island’s own
                                                      version of Mt. Fuji.
                                                        It’s definitely off-the-beaten-
                                                      path, having once been the site for
                                                      quarantining Japanese soldiers and
                                                                                             Contents
                                                      atomic bomb victims during WWII.
                                                        Cycle around the island’s peaceful
                                                      trails and bring some snacks since
                                                      there aren’t any restaurants here.
                                                                                             Overview
Shukkeien Garden
About 15 mins walk from Hiroshima
                                        Does an entire island overrun with
Station is Shukkeien Garden, a
                                        bunnies sound like heaven to you? To get
                                                                                             Tokyo
compact, Edo-period landscape
garden. Although smaller than other
                                        your furry fix, head to Okunoshima.
famous gardens in Japan, Shukkeien
Garden is perfect if you want to
escape the crowds for a while.
                                                                                             Kyoto
  Stroll along the paths and
contemplate the miniaturised
landscapes of forests and mountains
to find your Zen in the middle of the
heaving city.                                                                                Osaka
Okunoshima
                                                                                             Hiroshima
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HIROSHIMA
                                                                                                          Contents
to cosy up with a glass of wine or whiskey    karaoke if     Must-try restaurants
and munch on some yakitori (Japanese-         you’re into    You can’t leave Hiroshima without
style meat on a stick).                       belting        trying its claim-to-fame – okonomiyaki.
  Start at Nagarekawa, Hiroshima’s            out 80’s       This savoury pancake is a one-size-
                                                                                                          Overview
ultimate party district. Wander around        hair band      fits-all crepe, overflowing with
the streets to check out beer gardens,        anthems.       noodles, meat, seafood, vegetables
izakayas, bars, nightclubs, pachinko                         and any other ingredient you want, all
parlours, hostess clubs… you name it!                        smothered with a savoury-sweet sauce.
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If you’re looking for some decent craft                        One of the best places to chow
beer, try Raku Bar, the self-styled                          down on this awesome deliciousness
Japanese craft beer café. They offer                         is Okonomimura. In this four-storey
nomihodai (all you can drink) so you try as                  building, you can choose from loads
many craft beers as you like. Be sure to                     of okonomiyaki restaurants. Follow the
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try Kaigunsan, craft beer from Kure City                     crowd (or your nose), pull up a chair to
in Hiroshima Prefecture.                                     the hot griddle (watch those elbows),
  If you’re after a more rock ‘n roll                        and let the chef do his thing.
atmosphere to swill your whiskey or                            Another famous place to try
shochu, Koba cranks out the tunes until                      okonomiyaki in Hiroshima is Micchan.         Osaka
late. Bom-san, the bar’s musician-owner,                     This restaurant claims to be one of the
makes you feel right at home, as though                      city’s first, serving up the dish since
                                                                                                          Hiroshima
you’ve been friends for ages. Koba also                      the 1950s. Although there are many
hosts live music on occasion.                                in town, locals swear by the one in
  With a name like Wonderful Joke                            Hatchobori.
Bar, you’re bound to be curious. This                          On the other hand, if you’re feeling
tiny bar has an intimate feel and there’s                    adventurous and you’re after a spicier
                                                                                                          Okinawa
free karaoke if you’re into belting out                      version of the Japanese dish, head
80’s hair band anthems or some sweet                         to Lopez Okonomiyaki for jalapeno
Taylor Swift.                                                pepper-style okonomiyaki.
                                                                                                          39
HIROSHIMA
One-Day
Itinerary
Spend the morning at
Hiroshima Peace Park
Hiroshima’s peace park is a truly
serene and contemplative space
located in the centre of Hiroshima.
Start here in the morning to avoid the
crowds. Designed by architect Kenzō
Tange, this area was once a busy part
of downtown Hiroshima, flattened by
                                                                                                     Contents
the 1945 Hiroshima bombing. The
park is a space to memorialise the
victims, and for contemplating
world peace.
                                                                                                     Overview
  Next, take a walk through the
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum.          serves as exhibition of Japan’s history
The museum is dedicated to                up until 1945.
educating the world, with hopes for                                                   The
                                          Art walk at Hiroshima                       Hiroshima
                                                                                                     Tokyo
a more peaceful future through the
legacyof those affected by the 1945       Museum of Art                               Peace
atomic bomb.                              Located opposite Hiroshima Castle, the      Memorial
  Hiroshima Castle, built in 1958, is a   Hiroshima Museum of Art features            Museum is
complete reconstruction of the 1590’s     a collection of classical, modern, and      dedicated
                                                                                                     Kyoto
original that was flattened in the        contemporary works from both Japan          to educating
atomic bombing. Complementary to          and abroad. This impressive collection is   the world,
the Peace Memorial Museum, it now         complemented by a rotation of world-        with hopes
                                          class temporary exhibitions that ensure     for a more
                                          there is always something to see.           peaceful       Osaka
                                            On your way to the Shukkei en             future
                                          garden, stop off for lunch at one of the    through the
                                                                                                     Hiroshima
                                                                                                     40
HIROSHIMA
multiple teahouses, offering perfect        along the Momijidani river, the park is
views of the traditional Japanese           one of the most beautiful maple leaf
garden aesthetics.                          parks in Japan.
                                                                                      Oysters
  Famous for its beautiful floating torii                                             are one of
gate, Itsukushima shrine is the must-       Cap off the night                         Hiroshima’s
see centrepiece of Miyajima island.         with fresh seafood                        most
Built along the shore of the island,        Oysters are one of Hiroshima’s most       celebrated
the centuries-old shrine is Miyajima’s      celebrated local produce, so no trip      local
namesake, translating to ‘Shrine Island.’   to the prefecture is complete without     produce,
Regarded as a holy Shinto site, the         a tasting. Enjoy one of the various       so no trip
shrine consists of multiple buildings       restaurants on Miyajima serving the       to the
that appear to float on the water           island’s famous barbecued oysters.        prefecture
during high tide.                             The famous Yakigaki-no-hayashi          is complete
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  Behind Itsukushima shrine lies            serves oysters in every way imaginable.   without a
Momijidani park at the base of Mt.            Note that the last JR ferry leaves at   tasting.
Misen. Cultivated during the Edo            8:15pm, but the last Matsudai Kisen
period when the saplings were planted       ferry is not until 10:15pm.
                                                                                                           Overview
                                                                                      Getting
                                                                                      around
                                                                                      Rail and
                                                                                      metro
                                                                                                           Tokyo
                                                                                      Tokyo and
                                                                                      Hiroshima are
                                                                                      also connected
                                                                                      by the JR
                                                                                      Tokaido/Sanyo
                                                                                                           Kyoto
                                                                                      Shinkansen.
                                                                                      Buses
                                                                                      Ferries are the
                                                                                      best way to get
                                                                                                           Osaka
                                                                                      to different
                                                                                      islands. There are
                                                                                      overnight ferries
                                                                                      for longer trips.
                                                                                                           Hiroshima
                                                                                      Taxis
                                                                                      These are the
                                                                                      most expensive
                                                                                      mode of
                                                                                      transport in
                                                                                                           Okinawa
                                                                                      Japan. Think
                                                                                      twice before
                                                                                      hopping in!
                                                                                                           41
                                                                           Contents
                                                                           Overview
                                                                           Tokyo
OKINAWA                                                                    Kyoto
                                                                           Osaka
F
       rom the moment you arrive, you’ll see why Japan’s southernmost
       prefecture is known as “The Hawaii of Japan”. With its sun-
       blessed, tropical weather, and endless white sand beaches, you’ll
                                                                           Hiroshima
Must See
and Do
Explore Shuri castle
To get there, catch a train to Shuri
station, and take a short walk to the
castle. Shuri Castle will keep you
occupied for half a day, so make sure
you give yourself plenty of time.
  There are warning signs for
poisonous Habu snakes for a reason
– leave them undisturbed and you’ll
                                                                                                     Contents
escape unscathed. After buying your
pass, explore this unique structure,
check out the gorgeous rooms, and
marvel at the lacquer hardware.
                                                                                                     Overview
  Don’t miss the traditional
performances too, where you might        don’t miss the botanical gardens. Here,
even be bitten by a performing shisa     you can make traditional crafts, feed
(lion-dog) for good luck!                and ride Miyako ponies, and explore
                                                                                     Here, you
                                                                                     can make
                                                                                                     Tokyo
                                         a small jungle. Downtown is good for
Go for a snorkel or                      hand-crafted souvenirs and sampling         traditional
dive the Kerama islands                  the local delicacies – Miyako soba and      crafts, feed
For day trips and short getaways,        fresh sea grapes are a must! At Miyako      and ride
visit the Tokashiki, Zamami, Aka and     airport, you can rent a car or scooter if   Miyako
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Geruma islands. There are plenty of      you haven’t organised one beforehand.       ponies, and
marine adventures like snorkelling and                                               explore a
diving, which are world-class, or just   Visit Okinawa’s picture-                    small jungle.
relax on any of the white sand           perfect Yaeyama islands
beaches and admire the clear blue        This gorgeous chain of islands is just a                    Osaka
sea. Camping on Zamami is popular        short flight from Naha city. If you’re
too, and provides access to              looking for pristine beaches, wild
                                                                                                     Hiroshima
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OKINAWA
                                                                                                                Contents
manta rays – all the local dive shops
regularly have tours, so pick your
favourite. For longer stays, hop over to
the islands of Taketomi, Iriomote,
                                                                                                                Overview
and Yonaguni.
                                                                    Hiking boots are a must, as the
Ancient civilisations                                             journey will involve crossing a river and
in Yonaguni
                                                Some say      passing a waterfall, but the views at
                                                Yonaguni
                                                                                                                Tokyo
A curious underwater formation                                the summit are just incredible.
is the subject of debate amongst                are ancient
archaeologists (and truthers)                   ruins, others Take a leisurely hike
everywhere. Some say they are ancient           claim aliens. up Mt. Gusuku
ruins, others claim aliens. Killjoys say it’s   Killjoys      This distinctive rocky mountain of
                                                                                                                Kyoto
just a natural formation.                       say it’s just Iejima is only a 30min ferry from
  Decide for yourself with an                   a natural     mainland Okinawa. The course will
unforgettable close-up dive (make sure          formation.    have you passing through torii gate and
you’re properly licensed), or view it via                         visiting a sacred shrine. It’s suitable for
glass-bottom boat.                                                hikers of all levels. Though hiking boots     Osaka
                                                                  aren’t required, enclosed footwear is
Conquer Mt. Omoto,                                                advisable.
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                                                                                                                44
OKINAWA
Outdoor
Activities
Live the Island life on
Kerama islands
As the closest group of islands off
mainland Okinawa, you can easily
enjoy a day trip or a short stay here
compared to the southern-based
islands. Tokashiki, Zamami, Aka,
and Geruma make up this veritable
smorgasbord of sightseeing and
                                                                                                Contents
adventure activities. From viewing
humpback whales to camping,
and of course – diving, snorkelling,
and sunbaking – you’ll always be
                                                                                                Overview
entertained. At night, enjoy the
beautiful fireworks or stargaze with    For something a little different,
friends over a local beer or sake.      go exploring around the Boraga
                                        “pumpkin cave”.
                                                                                Meet the
See the postcard-worthy                                                         cheeky
                                                                                                Tokyo
beaches of Miyakojima                   Feed the fishes in Ishigaki             residents
Get ready to try snorkelling, diving,   With a coast dotted with beaches,       of Monkey
stand-up paddle boarding, kayaking,     the reef of Yonehara is definitely a    Forest at
and even banana-boating. There are      highlight. Here, friendly locals will   Ishigaki
                                                                                                Kyoto
also a tonne of beaches that are the    advise you of the top snorkelling       Yaima
stuff of postcards like Sunayama,       spots, and may even give you            Village
Maenohama, Yoshino, and Aragusku.       some food. It’s not for you – bring     and don’t
                                        it with you snorkelling so you’ll be    forget to try
                                        surrounded by hungry and colourful      their local     Osaka
                                        tropical fish.                          signature
                                          Meet the cheeky residents of          dish,
                                                                                                Hiroshima
                                        in Yonaguni
                                        This is the southern-most island
                                        of the Yaeyama islands (in fact,
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OKINAWA
                                                                                         Contents
levels of hikers.
  It winds past a shrine lined by
several torii gates, all the way up to a
summit with spectacular views of the
                                                                                         Overview
town below, the deep blue sea, and
mainland Okinawa. There are steps            Ryukyu islands diving
all the way to the top, so while hiking      Diving is no doubt one of the main
shoes are not necessary, enclosed            attractions of Okinawa. Speak to any of
                                                                                         Tokyo
shoes are highly recommended.                the local (accredited) dive shops about
                                             your level of experience and what you’d
                                             like to see and they can point you in the
                                             right direction. You can greet a rainbow
                                             of exotic fish, and perhaps even a turtle
                                                                                         Kyoto
                                             or two. Head towards Ishigaki for a
                                             manta ray experience, but make sure
                                             you bring your diving license!
                                                                                         46
OKINAWA
Nightlife
Izakayas
These cosy Japanese gastro pubs are the
heart of Okinawa nightlife, and they’re
chock full of character. Here you’ll find
Japanese co-workers or friends sitting
cross-legged on tatami mats enjoying
a wide range of shared dishes. We
recommend ordering the local specialty –
Okinawa soba, of which every izakaya will
have their unique, secret recipe.
  Some izakaya offer all-you-can-eat or                        Pankiewicz. There’s great food and
                                                                                                            Contents
all-you-can-drink specials for a set fee.                      drinks, and is often filled with martial
There’s no need to search for a specific
                                               There is a      artists making their pilgrimage to the
izakaya, just head to the nearest one,         wide range      birthplace of karate.
point at a few items on the picture menu       of cuisine.       Parker’s Mood Jazz Club serves up
                                                                                                            Overview
and enjoy.                                     Diners can      fine wines with live jazz, while Gold Disc
                                               choose from     caters for those who long for the days
Drinks                                         Thai, Indian,   of rockabilly and Elvis. At Hateruma
For beverages, the local Orion beer            Nepalese,       on Kokusai Street, there are nightly
                                               Mexican,
                                                                                                            Tokyo
reigns supreme. For something stronger,                        performances of traditional Okinawan
try the awamori. Although similar to sake,     Turkish,        music, with songs played on the three-
awamori is made with Thai rather than          Greek and       string sanshin.
Japanese rice, and served with a jug of        Italian.
cold water and ice.                                            Chatan
                                                                                                            Kyoto
  You pour and mix your own drink, and                         About 45min north of Naha is the
traditionally the drink of your superior.                      beachside entertainment area of
For those looking for something alcohol-                       Chatan. In close proximity to the U.S.
free, try the sanpincha (jasmine tea)                          military base, there is a wide range of
or one of the local fruit juices, acerola                      international cuisine. Diners can choose     Osaka
(similar to cranberry) or shikuwasa (similar                   from Thai, Indian, Nepalese, Mexican,
to a lime).                                                    Turkish, Greek, and Italian restaurants.
                                                                                                            Hiroshima
Naha is home to some excellent nightlife.                      bull, so pull on your boots and head over
The Dojo Bar is owned by karate                                to Nashville Restaurant and Rodeo,
black belt and British ex-pat, James                           “The place to git yer country on.”
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OKINAWA
One-Day                                                                               Getting
Itinerary                                                                             around
                                                                                      Monorail
For a quick stop-over                                                                 The monorail
If you are travelling elsewhere and                                                   only navigates
Okinawa is just a stopover, we’d                                                      around Naha.
                                                                                      Though the
suggest to stay close by the airport.                                                 transportation
Chances are, this might be in Naha                                                    is efficient, it
city. There’s plenty to do here and                                                   can be confusing
                                                                                      for anyone that
getting around is easy with busses,
                                                                                      doesn’t know
monorails, or taxis. To utilise your                                                  their way around,
time well, a taxi will be your best bet.   For a day-trip                             or speak the
                                                                                                           Contents
                                                                                      language.
Though it’s the costlier option than the   If you’ve got 24 hours in Okinawa, WE
others, you can get to exactly where       HAVE GOOD NEWS! There’s a lot more
                                                                                      Taxi
you want to go.                            time to squeeze in a bit more. Hire a
                                                                                      There are plenty
  Head to Hokusai Street in                car and drive to the northern part of
                                                                                                           Overview
                                                                                      of taxis around,
Naha, which is lined with souvenir         the island, where you’ll find beautiful    but these will
                                                                                      leave you out of
shops and places to try delicious local    beaches and less tourist crowds.
                                                                                      pocket.
cuisine. Next, hop in a cab and head         Head to Motobu Peninsula, a
to Shuri Castle, the palace of the         beautiful region surrounded by crystal
                                                                                      Planes
                                           clear ocean. Visit Okinawa’s Churaumi
                                                                                                           Tokyo
Ryuku Empire.                                                                         From the
  If you’ve got time afterwards, head      Aquarium, which is one of the largest      mainland,
                                                                                      Okinawa is an
to Okinawa World – just 30min from         in the world and a must-see. While
                                                                                      easy plane ride to
Shuri Castle – where you can take          you’re here, take a walk around Ocean      the city of Naha.
a look at the museum, explore the          Expo Park to learn about local sea-life.   Islands closer
                                                                                                           Kyoto
natural cave and grab a bite to eat.         Don't forget to stop at Nakijin          to mainland
                                                                                      Okinawa are
It’s also a great place to grab some       Castle too, one of the largest castles
                                                                                      accessible by
handmade souvenirs for the family!         in Okinawa. Depending on your              boat, whereas
                                           budget, we’d recommend staying at          another flight
                                                                                                           Osaka
                                                                                      is required for
                                           one of the resorts up this end of the
                                                                                      islands further
                                           island – it will be well worth the money   south.
                                           and give you more time to explore this
                                                                                                           Hiroshima
                                                                            Overview
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