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Japan Travel Guide for Explorers

This document provides an overview and guide to experiencing Japan like a local, with recommendations from experts. It outlines 10 top experiences to do in Japan, including exploring the bamboo forest in Arashiyama, staying at a traditional ryokan, scuba diving in Okinawa, trying okonomiyaki in Osaka, visiting Hiroshima Peace Park, seeing Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto during cherry blossom season, participating in a homestay, karaoke in Tokyo, hiking Mount Fuji, and cycling around Ohara. Details are given for each experience along with photos and sections dedicated to Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Hiroshima, and Okinawa.

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Douglas Felix
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© © All Rights Reserved
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
953 views50 pages

Japan Travel Guide for Explorers

This document provides an overview and guide to experiencing Japan like a local, with recommendations from experts. It outlines 10 top experiences to do in Japan, including exploring the bamboo forest in Arashiyama, staying at a traditional ryokan, scuba diving in Okinawa, trying okonomiyaki in Osaka, visiting Hiroshima Peace Park, seeing Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto during cherry blossom season, participating in a homestay, karaoke in Tokyo, hiking Mount Fuji, and cycling around Ohara. Details are given for each experience along with photos and sections dedicated to Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Hiroshima, and Okinawa.

Uploaded by

Douglas Felix
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 50

JAPAN The Insider’s Guide

From Tokyo to Okinawa, experience Japan


like a local with our experts' top picks
Contents
Contents

Overview
Japan Overview 3 Osaka 29
Top 10 experiences in Japan 3 Must see & do 30
Japanese cuisine 6 Outdoor activities 32
Cultural highlights 7 Nightlife 33

Tokyo
Etiquette and faux pas 9 One-day itinerary 34
Language and phrases 10 Getting around 35
Is Japan safe? 11
Getting around 13 Hiroshima 36

Kyoto
Visas and vaccinations 15 Must see & do 37
Nightlife 39
Tokyo 16 One-day itinerary 40
Must see & do 17 Getting around 41
Outdoor activities 18 Osaka
Nightlife 19 Okinawa 42
One-day itinerary 20 Must see & do 43
Hiroshima

Getting around 21 Outdoor activities 45


Nightlife 47
Kyoto 22 One-day itinerary 48
Must see & do 23 Getting around 48
Outdoor activities 25
Okinawa

Nightlife 26 Our contributors 49


One-day itinerary 27 See our other guides 49
Getting around 28 Need an Insurance quote? 50

2
Welcome!
Japan is a treasure-trove of amazing and unique
experiences. There’s breathtaking landscape,
awe-inspiring temples, world-famous cuisine…
there’s something for everyone and a new
discovery every time you visit.

To get you started, here are


ten of our favourite experiences
you must do in Japan – as voted
by our local insiders.

Contents
Tokyo
Kyoto
Breathtaking
Osaka
Hiroshima
landscape,

Overview
awe-inspiring
temples,
world-famous
cuisine.

Tokyo
Kyoto
Okinawa

Osaka
Explore the Bamboo
Forest of Arashiyama
Hiroshima

There’s plenty to do around Kyoto’s


western suburb of Arashiyama, but
none as famous (or as Instagram-
friendly) as the Bamboo Forest.
Stroll through its tall bamboos, visit
Okinawa

Nonomiya Shrine and try to catch


sight of the cheeky locals – the
Macaque monkeys.

3
Stay at a traditional Ryokan
Though slightly pricier than other
accommodation options, these uniquely
Japanese inns offer a glimpse into
Japan’s rich cultural heritage. Often
accompanied with tatami beds and a
traditional Japanese breakfast, many
Ryokans will also have an in-house onsen
for guests. Just make sure you brush up
on your onsen etiquette.

Go Scuba diving in Okinawa


Okinawa is known as Japan’s Hawaii,

Contents
with white sand beaches and clear blue
waters teeming with life. If you’re a diver,
you’ll be spoilt for choice here. One
place on top of our dive list is Yonagui,

Overview
an ancient underwater rock formation
shrouded in mystery. Some say it’s topped with your choice of ingredients.
natural, truthers claim aliens. Either way, Popular toppings include green onion,
it’s worth seeing for yourself. pork belly or octopus (its name does
Ryokans
offer a

Tokyo
literally mean “your choice grill”) and it’s
Try Okonomiyaki all drizzled in a savoury-sweet sauce. glimpse
fresh off the grill Itadakimasu! into Japan’s
Originating from Osaka, this tasty (and rich cultural
surprisingly filling) street food can be Visit Hiroshima Peace Park heritage.

Kyoto
found nationwide. This grilled, savoury History gets pretty real in the park’s
pancake, is made of a thin layer of batter Peace Memorial Museum, with exhibits
mixed with shredded cabbage and of burnt-out school uniforms of kids
who disappeared after the attack, and
photos of hibakusha, people who were Osaka
exposed to the bomb’s radiation. It’s a
difficult museum to see, but it carries an
Hiroshima

important message of hope for a more


peaceful future.

Visit Kiyomizu-dera Temple


during cherry blossom festival
Okinawa

Built on the site of Kyoto’s Otowa


Waterfall, the “Temple of Pure Water”
is best known for its distinctive wooden

4
experience from a market visit through
to enjoying a home-cooked meal at your
host’s home.
You’ll want
to bring
Karaoke in Tokyo an extra
Because, well… you’re in Japan. Find memory
yourself a nomihodai, a Japanese all-you- card for the
can-drink bar with karaoke, and channel camera.
your inner diva.

Hike Mt Fuji
During its climbing season (early July
stage. Built in 780, it rises 13m above to mid-September), this iconic, 3,776m

Contents
the hillside below and is built entirely volcano, attracts up to 10,000 people per
without nails. Though its impressive day. The hike takes about 4-8h to reach
architecture draws crowds all year the top and half that time to come back
round, we recommend going during the down. The views here are legendary for

Overview
cherry blossom season, or late autumn, a reason. If you want to escape the busy
when it bursts with stunning colour. hiking trials and just enjoy the sights of
You’ll want to bring an extra memory Mt. Fuji, you could also opt to hike Mt.
card for the camera. Ashitaka, Mt. Kuro or Mt. Ryuu-ga-
take, to experience it in all its beauty.

Tokyo
Cycle around Ohara
The village of Ohara is just 20km north of
Kyoto and is best explored by bicycle. It’s
a relatively easy route that should take

Kyoto
around 2h, with some uphill climbs, but
you’ll be rewarded with picturesque rural
views. Once here, explore the temple
complex at Sanzenin, browse the quaint
shops selling local crafts and don’t miss the Osaka
scenic Otonoashi Waterfall. There are
also a few hot spring inns here if you want
Hiroshima

to stay the night.

Learn to make Japanese cuisine


The best way to learn to cook authentic
Japanese food is to spend some time
Okinawa

with a home cook. Sites like Nagomi


Visit and Traveling Spoon can connect
you with a local host and get the full

5
Japanese
Cuisine
Japanese food is rightfully
famous, and washoku – or
Japanese cuisine – was even
named a UNESCO intangible
cultural heritage item in 2014.
Rich in flavours and nutrients,
traditional Japanese cuisine
is based around super-fresh,
seasonal produce.

Contents
Main dishes
Most travellers would have tried sushi,
but, oh, that’s just the beginning. If

Overview
you love seafood, sashimi – raw, thinly
sliced seafood and other meats – is a Japanese street food
must, especially in seaside destinations Don’t even get us started with the
like Hiroshima and Fukuoka.
Most street food. Yakitori, chargrilled
travellers

Tokyo
If cooked and warm foods are more skewers of meat, perfect with an
your thing, ramen, udon, and soba are would ice-cold Asahi Beer, are served in
the three main wheat-based noodle have tried izakayas and street stalls everywhere.
dishes found across Japan. All three can sushi, but, Okonomiyaki and Takoyaki – savoury
be served in a bowl of hot noodle soup, oh, that’s pancakes and flavoured batter balls

Kyoto
but soba can also be served cold. These just the with octopus, respectively – are also
all go great with a fresh plate of lightly- beginning. local favourites.
fried Tempura. These batter-coated
seafood or fresh vegetables are served Desserts and sweets
with a soy-flavoured dipping sauce, or Sweet treats are a big part of Japanese Osaka
floated in a bowl of noodles. food culture. Taiyaki, a fish-shaped
Speaking of warming broths, don’t waffle with a variety of sweet fillings
Hiroshima

miss shabu-shabu, a decadent dish such as red beans, custard, and chocolate
where platters of marbled meats, are a traditional favourite. It's often
vegetables and noodles are cooked sold at festivals alongside Daifuku, a
in a bubbling broth at the table. It’s chewy rice cake filled with red bean
perfect for the winter months. As are paste. Finally, you can’t miss matcha, or
Okinawa

Tonkatsu, breaded and deep-fried pork green tea, one of Japan’s most famous
cutlets, laid over a bed of rice and can be products, which are available in a variety
drizzled in Japanese curry. of sweets, snacks and confectionaries.

6
Cultural
Highlights
With a history dating back to
the 7th century BCE, Japan
has a rich and multi-faceted
cultural heritage. Despite
the country’s famous love of
modernity, it has still managed
to keep many of its traditions
alive. Travellers can explore
millennia-old shrines and

Contents
temples, only a stone’s throw
away from the city’s dizzying
skyscrapers.

Overview
Shintoism and
Buddhism in Japan and one of the country’s oldest forms
Though often regarded as a private, of entertainment. Generally consisting
family affair, Shintoism and Buddhism of all male actors, Kabuki is a highly-
People turn
to religious

Tokyo
teachings permeate Japanese social polished performance, distinctive due
and cultural values. That’s why you’ll to their extravagant make up, elaborate rituals only
see Shinto shrines and Buddhist backdrops, and unique Japanese during key
temples happily coinciding next to each musical instruments. moments of
other. You’ll also notice its influences in Noh, on the other hand, is less celebration.

Kyoto
architecture, art and design throughout radical, with less extravagant make up,
Japan’s history. scene changes, and backdrops. Due
Despite its influences, religion is to its Shinto origins and its historic
rarely discussed in everyday life. Most performance in shrines, it’s much more
people turn to religious rituals only serene, simplistic, and really quite a Osaka
during key moments of celebration, spiritual experience, centered around
such as birth, marriage, and death. masks and rhythm.
Hiroshima

Another, more joyous celebration of


religion are the many colourful matsuri, Sumo match
or festivals, that take place around the This experience is only around during
country and throughout the year. three major tournaments of the year,
in January, May & September. Tokyo’s
Okinawa

Kabuki and Noh theatre Ryogoku Kokugikan is the major venue.


Originating in the 15th Century, Kabuki Make sure you get your tickets early,
theatre is a truly avant-garde art form though, as they sell out quick!

7
Onsen and hot springs
Onsen have long been used as
Contrary to communal bath houses, and as
Hollywood venues for healing and recreation.
belief, Today, the widespread availability
Geishas of personal bath-tubs and showers,
were never coupled with the hectic lifestyles of
courtesans. modern Japanese, have contributed
to the decline of onsen as daily
cleaning facilities. However, they
are still famed and widely used for
their healing capabilities, which
If your trip doesn’t line up with one of vary depending on the type and

Contents
these tournaments, you can always composition of the onsen.
attend a morning training session Onsens are all over Japan, but If
instead. Just be on your best behaviour, you’re looking for something a little
as the requirements to watch are quite more special, it’s best to get out of

Overview
strict with audiences. the main cities. Traditional onsen
locations such as Hakone outside
Geisha and maiko Tokyo and Beppu in the more
Contrary to Hollywood belief, Geishas southerly Oita Prefecture are

Tokyo
were never courtesans. Instead, working always great choices.
alongside the oldest profession, Geishas
sought to provide entertainment
through the art of conversation, charm,
music, dance and poetry.

Kyoto
And while we’re debunking myths,
the popular image of an elegant figure
with white make-up, red lips, elaborate
hairstyles and ornate kimonos is actually
more typical of a maiko – a trainee Osaka
geisha. Fully-qualified geishas (or geiko)
are likely more subdued, relying on their
Hiroshima

skills and charm, rather than appearance,


to entertain.
If you want to catch a glimpse of
these elegant creatures, you’re most
likely to find them in Kyoto’s high-end
Okinawa

dinners, private parties and special


events to add a special touch to the
proceedings.

8
noise to a minimum. Loud behaviour is
Etiquette usually frowned upon because it invades

and Faux Pas


others’ space. Avoid talking on the
phone (put it on silent mode) and send
messages instead.
Respecting unwritten social
There are also designated seats
rules is rooted in Japanese
for the elderly, injured, pregnant
culture, but it can be tricky for
women, and those with young children
travellers to pick up. Here are
– don’t be rude and sit in them if there’s
a few quick tips to help you
someone who obviously fit one of
Remember
to avoid the label of a gaijin, a these categories. that rules
bumbling foreigner or outsider. are in place
Behaving on the streets to keep you
Don’t wear shoes indoors You might be in a rush, but don’t eat on safe. Are

Contents
This is the most common mistake. There’s the go. Sitting while eating shows one you really in
a reason the entrance of each house has appreciates their food. that much
a spot for your shoes. Some restaurants Smoking on the street is illegal too. of a hurry
might ask you to do the same too, so Instead, head towards a clearly marked anyway?

Overview
make sure your socks have no holes. “Smoking area” to light up.
Toilets are generally regarded as People generally follow rules when
“unclean” areas, so many homes and even crossing the road, but occasionally,
some public toilets have slippers lined up people do cross on red signals –

Tokyo
at their entrances. Just make sure you especially in the city. Remember
use these when you’re inside the toilet that rules are in place to keep you
area only! safe. Are you really in that much of a
hurry anyway?
Blowing your nose is… rude?

Kyoto
Believe it or not, sniffling is preferred Chopsticks and rules
over blowing your nose in public. If you at the dinner table
have to blow your nose, find a private If there’s one thing you take away,
spot like the toilet. The idea of blowing remember to never use your own
your nose is repulsive to some. It goes chopsticks to grab food from a Osaka
without saying, hold onto your tissues communal dish, unless you have the
until you find a bin. “OK” from everyone on the table. One
Hiroshima

workaround is to use the non-pointed


Train etiquette ends to tuck in, or to serve others.
Never barge your way onto the train. Speaking of which, it’s polite to serve
Platforms have markings that show others before serving yourself. Passing
where to form orderly queues while you food from one pair of chopsticks to
Okinawa

wait and always let others disembark another or sticking them upright inside
before you get on. bowls are BIG no-nos – this is reserved
Once you’re on board, try to keep for funeral rites.

9
Language
and Phrases
Japan’s language barrier is a
common misconception. As
all Japanese students study
English for a minimum of six
years in secondary school,
most Japanese locals will
speak at least a little English.
Sometimes, you might find
that people are hesitant to

Contents
try their English on you, but
you’ll likely find that you can
communicate in basic English
in a huge variety of situations

Overview
while traveling around Japan.

With that out of the way, it’s still Useful Japanese Phrases
useful (not to mention polite), to learn
Hello: konnichiwa

Tokyo
a few Japanese phrases. You’ll find
that people are more likely to open Thank You:
up to you and, especially the older Arigatou gozaimasu or simply, (informal) arigatou
generation, more likely to share their Excuse Me/I’m Sorry: Sumimasen
fascinating stories with you.

Kyoto
Please: Onegai shimas
For more useful travel phrases and
an audio guide to pronunciation, don’t My Name is “X”: Watashi wa “X”
forget to check out our World Nomads I would like “X”, please: “X” o kudasai
Japanese Language Guide app,
Osaka
Where is the “X”:
available for iOS and Android.
“X” wa doko desu ka? or, (informal) doko deska?
Do you have a room?: Oheya aitemas ka?
Hiroshima

How Much?: Ikula?


Please say that more slowly:
Japanese locals will
Yukkuli hanashite kudasai
speak at least a little
English. Sometimes, you Those drugs aren’t mine!:
Okinawa

might find that people Sono dolaggu watashino dewa alimasen


are hesitant to try their Goodbye: Sayoonara
English on you.
10
Is Japan
Safe?
Japan is generally safe for
tourists. People on the street
and on public transport will
look at you with a sense of
curiosity, and are some of the
friendliest, warmest people
you could meet. In saying this,
there are some things you
should know about general

Contents
safety before your Japanese
adventure begins.

Yakuza (gokudō)

Overview
and crime in Japan
Despite popular belief, Japan is not financial sector. While they have a
immune from organised crime – the large presence in Japan, it should be
Japanese call their version of this noted that they are unlikely to harm or
organisation the yakuza. Known for their

Tokyo
target tourists.
discipline and their widespread presence, In saying this, you should still exercise
they are not to be underestimated. the usual amount of caution that you
The yakuza are responsible for many would in your home country.
different criminal syndicates in Japan,

Kyoto
ranging from petty gambling and Drink-spiking in Japan
prostitution circles, to having power in While Japan has a busy and exciting night
the Japanese media, politics, and in the scene, particularly in cities like Tokyo
and Kyoto, there has been an increase in
reported incidents of drink-spiking over Osaka
the past few years.
While the These occurrences, in some instances,
yakuza
Hiroshima

have led to theft and even physical


have a large and sexual assault of the victim. While
presence in this is usually rare, you should exercise
Japan, they particular caution – don’t accept drinks
are unlikely from strangers, and don’t leave drinks
Okinawa

to harm unattended.
or target Solo female travellers should be
tourists. especially careful, as they can be a perfect

11
target for these attacks. In saying this,
practicing a bit of common sense and
being aware of drink-spiking dangers will
If you’re
go a long way. out in
the open,
Earthquake safety crouch
Each year, there are around 1,500 down on
earthquakes in Japan, so the locals are the ground
used to a few trembles. That doesn’t and cover
mean you shouldn’t stay alert. your head.
A big part of staying safe is to have
easy access to accurate information. A
few extra seconds of warning can give until the earthquake stops.

Contents
you all the time you need to prepare Falling debris from rooftops after an
for an earthquake. Stay connected earthquake is a common cause of injury,
and download a free Earthquake Early so don’t go outside. If you’re out in the
Warning app. open, crouch down on the ground and

Overview
If you do find yourself in an cover your head.
earthquake, take shelter under a sturdy
piece of furniture or under a doorway. If LGBT travellers in Japan
there is nowhere to hide, cover your head Japanese society places more emphasis

Tokyo
with something like a pillow. Don’t move on group identity and values than
personal expression. Sexuality — homo
or hetero — is considered a private
matter; It’s not flaunted with public
displays of affection, or discussed.

Kyoto
Because of this, much of local gay life
is not just hidden — it’s inaccessible. This
is even more so for lesbians in Japan,
who remain invisible.
That said, homosexuality is legal Osaka
in Japan and Japanese travel providers
are also starting to recognise the gay
Hiroshima

travel market.
If you know where to look, LGBTQI+
safe bars and spaces are aplenty,
especially in Tokyo. So do a little
homework before you go, or join a
Okinawa

locally-guided bar crawl and meet some


friendly locals to discover more about
gay Japan.

12
Getting
Around
Travelling around Japan
is exciting, mysterious
and awe-inspiring, but it
doesn’t have to be difficult
or unsafe. From mastering
Japan’s biggest cities, to
shooting through mountain
ranges on the shinkansen
bullet train, or sleeping

Contents
toe-to-toe with Japanese
families on a ferry, there
are a myriad of options to
get around.

Overview
Inner-city trains/metro Taxis
In Japanese cities, the rail and metro These are everywhere in Japan, and
systems are often the easiest ways to their distinctive look makes them easy
Typically,
trains,

Tokyo
travel. You can usually buy multiple- to pick outside train stations and on
day passes, making it even more the streets. However, they are by far metro
convenient. Rail staff operate at all the most expensive mode of transport and trams
ticket gates and are generally very in Japan, so think twice before are more
helpful to foreign tourists. ordering a taxi from Tokyo’s Shinjuku convenient

Kyoto
station to Narita airport, for example, and clearly
Trams a journey which will set you back an signposted.
Several major cities including eye-watering USD$240.
Hiroshima, Kumamoto and Nagasaki
have tram systems, which are a great Shinkansen Osaka
way to get around. These cities often One of the best ways to travel if you
offer 1-3 day passes which allow you want to get to your destination with
Hiroshima

unlimited travel on the tram system. minimum hassle is Japan’s shinkansen,


or bullet train. Hurtling through
Buses mountains and around coastlines at up
Buses are available in major cities, but to 320kph (200mph), the shinkansen
they aren’t very easy to use for non- brings even the furthest parts of japan
Okinawa

Japanese speakers. Typically, trains, within an easy few hours’ journey.


metro, and trams are more convenient A convenient way to travel cross-
and clearly signposted. country in Japan is use the Japan Rail

13
way to travel around Japan is with a
ticket called the Seishun 18 Kippu.
This ticket is unbelievably good
value for money compared to other
modes of transport, giving you 5 non-
consecutive days of unlimited rail
travel, excluding shinkansen trains. It is
only available at certain times of year
though, so make sure to check the
website to help plan your trip.

Ferry
Japan consists of thousands of

Contents
islands, and you can catch ferries
from many of the larger cities such
as Tokyo and Osaka. Many ferries
even have uniquely Japanese features

Overview
like public bath houses. Overnight
Pass, which is available to those on ferries involve sleeping in a room full
tourist visas and gives you unlimited of Japanese families, which is a great
rail access to all but the fastest way to see a slice of Japanese life,

Tokyo
shinkansen for 7-21 days. It can only but bring ear plugs in case you end up
be bought before arriving in Japan. next to granddad.
Be advised though — without the JR
pass, shinkansen tickets are pricey. If
speed is your priority and you don’t

Kyoto
have a rail pass, domestic flights will
almost certainly be cheaper.

Night buses
These are a very low-cost option, and Osaka
leave stations of metropolitan areas
in the evening, arriving first thing in
Hiroshima

the morning. Taking a bus through the


mountains of Japan can be a great
experience — not recommended for
light sleepers though!
Okinawa

Express trains
For those with more time on their
hands, by far the most economical

14
Visas and
Vaccinations
In the excitement of finding
cheap flights and planning trips
to temples and sumo matches,
it's easy to forget mundane
things such as checking your
visa requirements or getting
your shots. Here’s what you
need to know.

Contents
Visas for short visits
Travellers from Australia, New Zealand,
the UK, US, and some European
countries are covered by the Reciprocal

Overview
Visa Exemption Arrangements with
Japan. Holders of these passports may types of visas issued by Japan,
enter as a “Temporary Visitors”. and visas it’s impossible to list all of these
are not required for a timeframe shorter requirements here.
There are
no vaccines

Tokyo
than 90 days. To see if your country is Be aware, however, that Japanese
covered, check the Japanese Ministry of working visas are only issued to required to
Foreign Affairs website. applicants with a high level of visit Japan.
knowledge in skilled professions. For However,
Visas for longer visits specific details, get in touch with your it’s always a

Kyoto
As of the 23rd June 2015, travellers can closest Japanese embassy. good idea to
stay for up to 12 months in Japan for take some
tourism and recreational purposes under Vaccinations basic health
Japan's Longer Stays program. There are no vaccines required to visit precautions.
The basics are that you need to be Japan. However, it’s always a good idea Osaka
over 18, have no accompanying children, to take some basic health precautions
have private medical travel insurance, before traveling.
Hiroshima

and a certain amount of savings to The US Centre for Disease Control


sustain your trip. Check with your local (CDC) recommends that travellers
Japanese embassy for more specifics. should be up to date on routine
vaccines before your trip. These include
Working visas measles-mumps-rubella (MMR) vaccine,
Okinawa

If you plan on working in Japan, diphtheria-tetanus-pertussis vaccine,


this requires a different type of visa varicella (chickenpox) vaccine, polio
altogether. As there are 27 different vaccine, and your yearly flu shot.

15
Contents
Overview
Tokyo
TOKYO Kyoto
Osaka

A
s well as being Japan’s capital and the
world’s most densely-populated city,
Tokyo is famous for combining the
Hiroshima

charms of tradition and the buzz of the modern


world. Explore millennia-old Shinto shrines and
village-like lanes, then hop on the metro and
arrive at the flashing neon lights of dizzying
Okinawa

skyscrapers, filled with world-class shopping


and Michelin-starred restaurants. Get ready to
be swept up by this buzzing metropolis.
16
TOKYO

Must See
and Do Although
the palace
itself
North-East Tokyo remains
Visit Senjoji, Tokyo’s oldest temple. closed for
On the way there, stop off at the food
most of
stalls to grab a treat and buy some
the year, it
handmade maneki neko (good luck
opens its
charms).
gates to
North-East Tokyo is famous for its
the public
sumo schools, which regularly hold
sumo-wrestling tournaments. If you’re all, it’s the hotspot for J-Pop, and
during the

Contents
visiting during the off-season, you might fashion, and also the home of Meiji
Emperor’s
still be able to catch one of the practice Jingu, Tokyo’s most important shrine.
New Year’s
matches. Shinjuku, to the north of Harajuku, is speech.
The Edo Tokyo Museum, which the more affordable rival of Ginza. It’s

Overview
exhibits life in Tokyo both past and a favourite shopping district for locals.
present, is another must-see in the area. Here, you’ll will find the narrow alley,
known as Golden Gai, which is famous
Central Tokyo for its small restaurants and pubs with
In the heart of Tokyo lies the Imperial

Tokyo
excellent food. For an unforgettable
Palace, surrounded by the high-rises of night out, Roppongi is packed with
Tokyo’s business districts. Although the clubs – and people – or Ni-Chome,
palace itself remains closed for most Tokyo’s queer-friendly district, are
of the year, it opens its gates to the definitely the places to go.

Kyoto
public during the Emperor’s New Year’s
speech, and in autumn to view the Southern Tokyo
season’s changing colours. For anime and robot enthusiasts, the
Don’t miss Ginza, a bustling Odaiba district, with its full-scale
commercial district with many brand Gundam statue, is a must-visit. Make Osaka
stores and, more importantly, the sure you take a seflie in front of the
Kabuki-za theatre. Kabuki, a classical, mechanical giant!
Hiroshima

stylised form of drama, is only The fresh seafood of Tsukiji Fish


performed in select theatres, and is Market has been the dream destination
especially cherished in cities outside of chefs and foodies alike. Local
Kyoto. restaurants often go at the break of
dawn to get the freshest seafood for
Okinawa

West Tokyo their customers. Be sure to find a sushi


In western Tokyo, Harajuku draws shop around here for some of the
thousands of visitors every day. After freshest sashimi in town.

17
TOKYO

Outdoor It’s a treat


Activities to just get
lost and
Shinjuku Gyoen explore the
This lush, 144-acre park and garden alleys and
sits smack in the middle of the city, backstreets.
offering locals a respite from the
surrounding skyscrapers. Known for its
beauty during cherry blossom season,
the park is a splendid and convenient
place for a picnic or stroll.
Hiking Mt. Mitake

Contents
Tokyo by bike and Mt. Takao
There are some set cycling courses At the western of edge of Tokyo, still
in places like Yoyogi Park or the within the city limits in the Tama region,
Imperial Palace, but it’s also a treat are Mt. Mitake and Mt. Takao, two

Overview
to just get lost and explore the popular spots for people who want to
alleys and backstreets of random get in some more serious hiking.
neighbourhoods. Both can be reached by train from
You’re sure to turn up some gems central Tokyo in about an hour or so.

Tokyo
like small temples, neighbourhood From here you can hike or take a cable
bars, and old shopping streets. car up the mountain. You’ll find more
There are many places to rent a walking trails, ancient shrines and
bicycle. Just beware not to ride by temples, beautiful flora and fauna, and
yourself after dark. stunning views of both Tokyo city and

Kyoto
distant Mt. Fuji.
Urban hot springs at
Ooedo Onsen Monogatari Diving Ogasawara
Even in Tokyo, you can experience The Ogasawara Islands lay a
Japanese-style communal bathing in thousand miles south of Tokyo, yet Osaka
places like Ooedo Onsen Monogatari, it’s still considered part of the Tokyo
a large hot spring spa complex Metropolitan Area.
Hiroshima

decorated to look like the Edo-era These far-flung islands offer


capital. excellent diving and snorkelling among
Don a cotton yukata, dip your the tropical fish and coral reefs that
toes in the steaming footbaths, ring the islands.
or take it all off for a relaxing soak There are more than 30 islands to
Okinawa

in the open-air pools. Note that, as in choose from, which can be reached by
most hot springs in Japan, tattoos are ferry to the main island of Chichijima,
not permitted. or “Father Island.”

18
TOKYO

Nightlife
Izakayas
Izakayas can be found in every suburb,
and are great venues to connect with
locals. Try Zakoya in Shimokitazawa for
a cosy, traditional interior, delicious food
and great sake selection.

Late-night cafes
In the grungy Tokyo suburb of
Shimokitazawa, you’ll find a number
of small bohemian bars, vintage shops, venues offer nomihodai. For those who

Contents
cafes and restaurants, open late along believe there is nothing better than the
pedestrian-only streets.
The narrow combination of unlimited alcohol, cheesy
Just a few blocks from the izakaya alleyways video clips, and horrible singing – this
Zakoya is Café Propaganda. Open until are lined place is for you.

Overview
sunrise on weekends, this laid-back with If karaoke isn’t your thing, try Bar Mist
lounge offers large shisha pipes, giant lanterns, in Roppongi, which features three hours
antique couches, delicious food and bar stools of all-you-can-drink for only ¥1,000.
unique cocktails at any hour. and grills
offering Pecha Kucha

Tokyo
Yakitori and street food authentic For those of you who don’t know, Pecha
One of Japan’s most deliciously famous local Kucha is a series of 20-slide image
street food is yakitori (grilled chicken cuisine. presentations, with each slide only
skewers). A fantastic area to get a feel appearing for 20 seconds. This monthly

Kyoto
for this style of eating is Shinjuku’s hub of creatives, designers, thinkers and
Omoide Yokocho. The narrow alleyways basically anyone with something to say,
are lined with lanterns, bar stools and has become a must-see at Roppongi’s
grills offering authentic local cuisine, and self-proclaimed gallery/lounge/bar/club/
yakitori as the main event. creative kitchen SuperDeluxe. Osaka
A couple of blocks away is the
boozier version of Omoide Yokocho, in Bizarre themed restaurants
Hiroshima

the famous Golden Gai. Golden Gai’s and shows


watering holes are found in small alleys, Two must-visit entertainment
often only seating 8 or so people. restaurants for the ultimate bizarre
Tokyo experience are Harajuku’s
Nomihodais and karaoke Kawaii Monster Café, and Shinjuku’s
Okinawa

One way to drink on the cheap in Robot Restaurant. Both feature crazy
Tokyo is nomihodai, Japanese for ‘all entertainment, music, shows, food,
you can drink’. Most late-night karaoke and drinks.

19
TOKYO

One-Day
Itinerary
Street food, lucky charms
and Senjoji Temple
First stop, Asakusa! The district is
Tokyo’s oldest remaining entertainment
area with an Edo-period charm. At the
heart of the district lies Senjoji Temple,
Tokyo’s oldest temple, devoted to the
goddess Kannon. Nakamise street
leading up to Sensoji is lined with

Contents
countless small shops, selling a variety
of small items and street food. These
make for great souvenirs.

Overview
Experience Edo culture at
Ueno Park on the JR Yamanote Line brings us
By taking the Ginza Line from Asakusa to Tokyo Station, tucked in between
to Ueno Station, we arrive at Ueno Marunouchi and Ginza. The building Harajuku
Park. One of Tokyo’s most popular is known

Tokyo
itself is one of the city’s most important
parks to view cherry blossoms in spring, symbols, as well as a historic reminder throughout
it’s also home to a number of temples of Japan’s modernisation at the brink of the world as
and shrines. the 20th century. the centre
The most famous spot here is the While Marunouchi is a business of teenage

Kyoto
Tokyo National Museum, which features district, Ginza is commercial, known for J-Pop and
national treasures and cultural heritage its brand stores and Kabuki-za, where extravagant
items. If you're interested in museums, you can enjoy a kabuki performance. fashion.
Edo Tokyo Museum only takes
25min on the Oedo Line from Ueno- Stroll through the Imperial Osaka
okachimachi to Ryogoku Station. Palace Gardens
Ryogoku Kokugikan is also located The wide road in front of Tokyo station
Hiroshima

near the station, and if you happen connects it with the Imperial Palace.
to be in Tokyo at the right time, you While you cannot visit the palace itself,
could even catch the sumo-wrestling its East Gardens are open to the public
tournament when it’s held in the city. and well worth a tour.
Okinawa

Explore Ginza, the beating Cosplay in Harajuku


heart of Tokyo The Chiyoda Line gets us from
Heading to central Tokyo from Ueno Otemachi Station on the northern side

20
TOKYO

of the East Gardens to Meiji-jingu Mae,


near the popular Harajuku district.
the Tokyo Metropolitan Government
Building. The observatories on the top
Getting
Harajuku is known throughout the floor of each tower offers a stunning around
world as the centre of teenage J-Pop view over Tokyo’s skyline and, on a clear Rail and
and extravagant fashion. Takeshita afternoon, you might even spot Mt Fuji metro
The most
Street, in particular, is lined with many in the distance.
convenient way
small shops, cafes, and boutiques. to get around.
Sample Tokyo’s world-famous Get a multiple
Pray for good fortune cuisine in Shinjuku day pass to save
money, and
at Meji Jingu Shrine Cap off your day by walking east download an
Another not-to-be-missed sight in towards Shinjuku for an evening of offline, English
Harajuku is Meiji Jingu Shrine, Tokyo’s shopping – we recommend checking version of the
metro map
most important shrine. Meiji Jingu is out all the latest tech gadgets!

Contents
to help you
dedicated to Emperor Meiji’s soul and Before you leave Tokyo, don’t miss navigate your
that of his wife. out on the city’s world-famous dining journey.
Take a stroll through the forests of scene with a delicious dinner in a small
Yoyogi Park surrounding the shrine and restaurant or pub in Golden Gai. Buses

Overview
Buses are
available
throughout
Tokyo, but are
not easy to
use for non-

Tokyo
Japanese
speakers.

Taxis
The most

Kyoto
expensive mode
of transport.
Think twice
before ordering
a taxi from

Osaka
Shinjuku station
to Narita airport,
which will cost
USD$240.
Hiroshima

Ferries
Used to get to
the man-made
islands of Tokyo
Bay, or travelling
Okinawa

between
destinations
near water.

21
Contents
Overview
Tokyo
KYOTO Kyoto
Osaka

L
ocated at the central part of Honshuu island, Kyoto
was the former capital of Japan for over a thousand
years. Today, it still retains much of its old-world
Hiroshima

charm. Over the centuries, the city was destroyed by


many wars and fires, but countless temples, shrines, zen
gardens and other historic landmarks still remain. It’s also
home to many of Japan’s most important matsuris and
Okinawa

serves as the training ground of Geishas, an integral part


of the city’s thriving nightlife. With so much to see, do,
and eat, you won’t want to rush your stay here.
22
KYOTO

Must See
and Do
Sanjusangendo
Laying slightly off-the-beaten-path,
Sanjusangendo is located east of
Kyoto Station. Founded in 1164, this
temple is famous for its 1001 statues
of the goddess of mercy, Kannon, in
the 120m wooden hall. The name
literally translates to “33 intervals”,
the traditional method of measuring

Contents
the size of a building and definitely an
impressive sight to behold.

Kyoto International

Overview
Manga Museum
More of a library, the manga museum architecture is one-of-a-kind. In
features a collection of over 300,000 autumn, the grounds are especially
manga that you can read at your rewarding as the surrounding forests
Located on
the western

Tokyo
leisure. Don’t worry if you can’t read change colours, transforming the
Japanese – about 1,000 of these are scenery. outskirt
in English. of Kyoto,
Arashiyama Arashiyama
Ryoanji Located on the western outskirt of is a popular

Kyoto
Famous for its gravel-and-rock Zen Kyoto, this is a popular destination destination
garden, Ryoanji is generally regarded to enjoy nature and the soothing air to enjoy
as the finest expression of Zen. As flowing over the river. Its famous nature
you’re seated on the deck of the head bamboo grove lets you wander in a and the
priest's former residence, you won’t be mystical forest, through which you soothing air Osaka
able to see all 15 stones in the garden. won’t even see the sky. flowing over
There’s a lesson there somewhere! the river.
Hiroshima

Nijo Castle
Nanzenji Only a few hundred meters away from
Nanzenji is the head temple of one Kyoto's Imperial Palace, Nijo Castle
of the schools within the Rinzai was built as a symbol of power for
sector of Japanese Zen Buddhism, the shogunate – feudal Japan’s last
Okinawa

and includes an impressive network military government. With floors that


of interconnected sub-temples. Its squeak when you step on them (called
spacious grounds and ancient wooden “nightingale” floors), and hidden

23
KYOTO

known for its wooden stage, built in


780 and made entirely without nails. We
We definitely recommend checking definitely
out it’s stunning views over Kyoto recommend
during Cherry Blossom Festival or late checking
autumn, as it’s the perfect spot to take out
in (and photograph) the hundreds of
Kiyomizu-
cherry and maple trees in the valley
dera's
below.
stunning
views over
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Kyoto
Voted as Kyoto’s #1 attraction, Fushimi
guards stationed throughout, the Inari Taisha’s visitors make their
during

Contents
castle was designed to impress anyone way through its vermilion torii gates
Cherry
who would come for an audience. towards the sacred Mt. Inari, which
Blossom
is dedicated to the Shinto god of rice. Festival.
Ginkakuji Foxes are said to be Inari’s messengers,

Overview
Known as “The Temple of the Silver which explains the many fox statues
Pavilion”, Ginkakuji was so named watching over visitors throughout the
because the moonlight reflecting on grounds.
the building’s dark exterior was said to Its tranquillity, charm, and above

Tokyo
give it a silvery appearance. Take in the all, beauty, make it hard for anyone to
serenity of the moss garden and enjoy deny its sheer attractiveness.
the zen of the grounds as you walk
along its famous circular route.

Kyoto
Kinkakuji
The pavilion used to be part of a vast
retirement residence for shogun
Yoshimitsu, but it was converted
to a Zen temple after his death. Osaka
The pavilion’s top two floors are
completely covered in gold leaf and
Hiroshima

perched on the edge of a large pond.


It’s a sight to behold.

Kiyomizu-dera
The “Temple of Pure Water” is a
Okinawa

popular sight throughout the year, as


visitors are drawn in by its impressive
architecture. Kiromizu-dera is best

24
KYOTO

Outdoor A regular
Activities bicycle can
be rented
Arashiyama for as little
There are numerous walking and hiking as ¥500
paths around Arashiyama, which are per day.
liberally sprinkled with temples and
traditional gardens, such as Tenryuji,
Gioji, and Katsura Rikyu. Make sure
you visit the monkey park and mingle
(and take selfies) with free-roaming
Japanese macaques. part of the way. There are also natural

Contents
hot springs in the area that allow day
Maruyama Park access or overnight stays.
Head over to Maruyama for a stroll
through the classical garden, with paths Higashiyama by bicycle

Overview
that wind around ponds reflecting Higashiyama is a district with plenty
the greenery. In the spring, this is an to see, and is especially pleasant by
extremely popular spot to do hanami, or bicycle. Highlights in the area include
cherry blossom viewing. the famous temples Kiyomizudera and
Kodaiji, and Yasaka Shrine. The narrow

Tokyo
Philosopher’s Walk streets between them are stuffed with
The narrow stone path from Ginkakuji to traditional shops and buildings.
Eikando is called Tetsugaku no michi, A regular bicycle can be rented for as
or Philosopher’s Walk. little as ¥500 per day, and if you want

Kyoto
The pedestrian path runs under a an electric bike (to help you with some
procession of cherry trees, along a canal. of the hills in this district), those go for
In addition to the major temples, the around ¥2,000.
path is lined with smaller shrines and
temples, a few small cafes, and shops Sanzenin and Ohara Osaka
offering both traditional and modern art. by bicycle
For a more ambitious cycling trip, head
Hiroshima

Kuramadera and Mt. Kurama up to the village of Ohara. The ride is


Kurama Temple sits in the foothills of about 20km with some uphill climbs, and
Mt. Kurama in northern Kyoto. The area should take a couple of hours.
is said to be home to many spirits, such Once there, explore the temple
as the mythological tengu (long-nosed complex of Sanzein, and the pretty
Okinawa

goblins), and the healing art of reiki is Otonoashi Waterfall. There are hot
said to have been born here. spring inns in the area too if you wish to
It’s possible to hike up or take a tram stay overnight.

25
KYOTO

Nightlife
Bars and clubs
If you’re looking for a more relaxed
evening, Pig and Whistle is the place
to go. This British pub has a good
selection of drinks and food, and it’s a
friendly place to meet locals and other
international travellers!
You’ll be welcomed with a free
drink on arrival when you step
inside Kitsune nightclub. Filled with
glowsticks and wacky Japanese Pontocho is a narrow alley packed

Contents
entertainment, you’re in for a crazy with restaurants, with a wide range of
night. The club is open every day of
Pontocho options for dining, including traditional
the week, including Sunday nights. is a narrow Kyoto cuisine. The atmosphere of this
For a more chilled out vibe, head alley area is worth checking out whether

Overview
to Jittoku, located in an old sake packed with you are looking for a proper meal or
brewery. The Japanese call Jittoku restaurants, just a place to relax and have a drink.
a live-house; featuring many live with a wide
music acts ranging from rock, blues, range of Entertainment
options

Tokyo
Japanese pop, Irish fiddle, electronica, There are plenty of market-style stores
and more. for dining, and food venues to choose from at
including Shinkyogoku shopping arcade. You
Places to eat traditional could spend hours exploring this area
Kyoto is home to many cheap and Kyoto if this is your thing.

Kyoto
delicious sushi trains. Kappa Sushi cuisine. Gear Kyoto is a non-verbal
offers a wide variety and great prices, performance, so that both locals and
but for authentic handmade sushi, international visitors can enjoy the
Musashi Sushi is a great spot to eat. show. The show involves magic, dance,
There are hundreds of cheap sushi comedy, and mime. If you’re interested Osaka
trains to explore, so don’t be afraid to in theatre and have a spare night in
try as many as possible. Kyoto, it’s definitely worth checking out.
Hiroshima

Menbakaichidai Fire Ramen Round 1 is a multi-story amusement


Restaurant in Kyoto is a great centre. You can rent a private karaoke
experience; the local staff are booth, enjoy hours of bowling, play
welcoming, and encourage tourists arcade games, hop into a photo
to come into their restaurant as you booth, and check out Las Vegas style
Okinawa

walk by. Dinner hours can get busy for gambling. Even if you’re not interested
them, so it’s best to avoid the 6pm- in doing any of these things, it’s worth
8pm rush. visiting the venue just to check it out.

26
KYOTO

One-Day
Itinerary
Early morning
at Kiyomizu-dera
The uphill path to Kiyomizu-dera gets
congested as the day goes on, but
the temple opens at 6am. This is the
perfect time to enjoy a quiet morning
stroll around the temple, and down to
the Otowa waterfall. Take a moment
to drink its magical waters for luck in

Contents
love, studies, or for a long life.
After your visit to the temple,
spend your walk back down sampling
snacks at souvenir shops. We

Overview
recommend the various flavours of
Yatsuhashi, a triangle-shaped mochi. Afternoon temple break,
Near Kiyomizu-dera is your next Kyoto International Manga
stop, Sanjusangen-do. This Buddhist Museum, and Nijo Castle Most
temples

Tokyo
temple, built in 1164, houses 1001 Call ahead and make lunch
statues of the goddess of mercy, reservations at the Samurai Cafe and stop letting
Kannon. Its name literally means “33 Bar near the International Manga visitors in 30
intervals”, a traditional method of Museum. Their popularity makes min before
measuring the size of a building. going in on a whim difficult. closing, so

Kyoto
Built without a single nail, this old After lunch, learn about manga at keep an
wooden temple has a stunning view the International Manga Museum. eye on the
that is especially magical in autumn. Peruse manga translated from all over clock. If you
the world and get a portrait done by manage to
one of their staff artists. Depending time it right, Osaka
on the day and time, you can also the end of
watch manga artists at work. the day can
Hiroshima

A short bike ride away from the be the best


manga museum is Nijo Castle.
time to visit.
Ditch your shoes and walk on the
old wooden nightingale floors at
Ninomaru Palace. As you walk around
Okinawa

looking at painted sliding doors,


the floorboards sing. It sounds like
the ancient palace is alive, with the

27
KYOTO

plucking of a thousand eerie strings. stunning as the sun starts to lower in


Nijo Castle also includes gardens and the sky.
defensive keeps.
The Golden
An evening at Arashiyama Temple
Late afternoon at Kinkaku-ji After Kinkaku-ji, take a train, bus, or looks
If you're hungry, stop by Ryoan-ji for bike ride to Arashiyama's bamboo stunning
some Yudofu (boiled tofu). You’ll have grove. There's a ton to do here and as the sun
a beautiful view of the temple and its the tall bamboo grove is lit up at night. starts to
gardens during this traditional meal. Hidden away in the grove is lower in
Most temples stop letting visitors in Nonomiya Shrine. This small shrine is the sky.
30 min before closing, so keep an eye mentioned in The Tale of Genji, a classic
on the clock. If you manage to time it work of Japanese literature written
right, the end of the day can be the in the early years of the 11th century.
Getting

Contents
best time to visit. The doors will shut You can also head over to Kameyama-
behind you, giving you enough time to koen Park to spot some monkeys, or
around
take pictures at your leisure. Kinkaku- finish your trip to Kyoto with a walk Rail and
ji, the Golden Temple, looks absolutely through the ethereal Kimono Forest. metro

Overview
Like Tokyo, the
rail and metro
systems are the
easiest ways
to get around.
Buy multiple-

Tokyo
day passes for
convenience and
save. Rail staff
operate at all
ticket gates and

Kyoto
are generally
very helpful to
foreigners.

Buses

Osaka
These aren’t the
most user-friendly
for non-Japanese
speakers, but it
does cover a large
Hiroshima

part of the city.

Taxis
By far the most
expensive mode
Okinawa

of transport in
Japan. Think twice
before hopping in!

28
Contents
Overview
Tokyo
OSAKA Kyoto
Osaka

D
espite being Japan’s second-largest city, Osaka is far
too often overlooked by travellers. But don’t worry,
we won’t let you make the same mistake. With
Hiroshima

some of the country’s most fun-loving people and a world-


class drinking and dining culture, it’s a perennial favourite
among locals and foodies the world over. It is, after all,
known as the “nation’s kitchen” and boasts of being the
Okinawa

birthplace of okonomiyaki, takoyaki, and udon. So do as


the locals and grab a bike – plus a pair of chopsticks – and
join us in exploring this food-lover’s paradise.
29
OSAKA

Must See
and Do
Shinsekai
Considered one of the dodgiest
areas in Osaka, Shinsekai has a lot
of character – and characters! Visit
at night and choose a kushi-katsu
restaurant. We suggest a smaller one
with plastic chairs outside (in summer)
to best enjoy the view of Tsutenkaku
Tower, a 100m, octagonal construction

Contents
modelled after the Eiffel Tower. Get
set ordering deep-fried foods on sticks
and you’re in for a top night.
We recommend plum and shiso

Overview
chicken, but go crazy and try cheese-
cake, or half-boiled egg. Prices are neon glare from karaoke bar signs,
usually between ¥80 to ¥100 per stick, and the run-down, 1980's cyberpunk
and up to ¥500 for a beer – which atmosphere.
Turn down
a few lanes

Tokyo
kushi-katsu goes really well with. Don't Turn down a few lanes off the main
forget to yell okini! (oh-kee-nee “thank drag to the quiet, cobble-stoned street off the main
you”) as you leave. of restaurants – which the crowds drag to
never seem to find. For travellers who the quiet,
Dotonbori prefer people-watching, find a spot cobble-

Kyoto
Another sweet night spot is on Dotonboribashi bridge among stoned
Dotonbori. See the famous Glico spiky-haired hosts plying their trade. street of
man, and the robot crab, revel in the Beware of the optimistic high school restaurants
girls attempting to ride their bicycles – which
through the crowd. the crowds Osaka
never seem
Osaka Castle to find.
Hiroshima

Osaka castle is incredibly impressive.


Outside the 30m high castle walls,
the beautiful park is a favourite spot
during cherry blossom season for
BBQs.
Okinawa

The main building itself is a


reconstruction, with a museum inside.
Some dislike the elevator, however it

30
OSAKA

temples and shrines as Kyoto, but it is


the site of the oldest Buddhist temple
in Japan, Shitennoji.
From the pagoda, the other temple
buildings, beautiful rows of hanging
lanterns, to the pond of abandoned
pet turtles – there’s plenty to see here.
On the 21st and 22nd of every
month, there is also a huge flea
market. If you’re willing to venture
out on the 11th of February, you
will witness Doya Doya Matsuri, a
sympathetic-shudder-inducing festival,

Contents
where high school boys run through
sheets of freezing water to catch
paper charms, and ensure their luck for
the year to come.

Overview
does increase the ease of access for
travellers with walking difficulties.
Black SUVs idle along the street,
reminding nervous tourists that Osaka's
Tobita Shinchi

Tokyo
Less family-friendly, but interesting
underbelly is watching.
on many levels, is the neighbourhood
of Tobita Shinchi. This large brothel
district remains true to a traditional

Kyoto
style that has otherwise vanished
from Japan.
Beautifully dressed prostitutes sit in
the doorways, waiting for customers.
Even in winter, they sit by kerosene Osaka
heaters, ensconced in fluffy blankets
that still manage to reveal some skin.
Hiroshima

Black SUVs idle along the street,


reminding nervous tourists that
Osaka's underbelly is watching,
unless they are otherwise engaged.
Photography is strictly not allowed.
Okinawa

Shitennoji
Osaka is not as well known for its

31
OSAKA

Outdoor
Activities
Picnic among the cherry
blossoms at Tennoji Park
Tennoji Park is a world away from the
hustle and bustle of the city. Situated
in the southern part of the city, the
park is a botanical oasis, right next to
Tennoji Station. Pack yourself a picnic
and take some time to enjoy its natural
beauty. It’s the perfect spot for bike

Contents
riding, or a leisurely afternoon stroll.
The best time to visit is in spring,
when the native sakura (cherry blossom)
are in full bloom. You’ll be spoilt for

Overview
choice on statues, open spaces for
sport, cafés, and restaurants. card being the Ryuanji Temple, located
at the midpoint of the walk.
Take photos around scenic The grounds
Minoo Park Osaka Castle and gardens of Osaka

Tokyo
If the inner-city escape of Tennoji Park Osaka Castle sprawls across sweeping Castle are
wasn’t enough for you, head further grounds, which cover over 60,000 sqm. a sight to
north to the splendour of Minoo It’s filled with over 600 cherry trees behold
(Minoh) Park. It’s most well-known for and boasts a moat tall enough to give a during

Kyoto
the walking trail, Takimichi, built in view over most of the city. spring,
1886. The grounds are a sight to behold when cherry
Whether you’re an avid hiker or during spring, when cherry blossoms blossoms
looking for a casual stroll, Minoo Park frame the castle in bright pink flowers. frame
has something for everyone. Its trails At any time of the year though, It’s still it with Osaka
begin with a 2.7km paved walkway, and a popular walking spot for locals and bright pink
is easily accessible from the main train tourists alike. flowers.
Hiroshima

station. Entry to the castle grounds is free.


Minoo waterfall is only a short Make sure you allow a few hours
distance along the trail, and is an to walk the perimeter of the castle.
incredible spot for taking photos and To discover the full history of this
enjoying the beautiful red foliage remarkable building, visit the eight-
Okinawa

during autumn. storey museum inside the castle


The walk around Minoo Park should – the view from the top is well worth
take around 45min, with a major draw the climb.

32
OSAKA

Nightlife
Dotonbori
This is the night-time heart of Osaka,
with its neon lights and hundreds of
eating and drinking establishments.
The canal that runs through the centre
of the district is flanked on both sides by
cafes, restaurants, bars, and street food
stalls. You'll also find the Shochikuza,
a large old theatre that showcases
traditional arts like kabuki.
The Zuboraya restaurant is an izakaya (savoury cabbage pancake with a wide

Contents
(Japanese gastropub) specialising in fugu range of toppings) washed down with
(blowfish). The potentially poisonous
The canal shochu, the Japanese distilled liquor.
fish is displayed in tanks out front. Inside, that runs
the atmosphere is convivial. Fugu is great through Shinsekai

Overview
paired with nihonshu, or sake, and there's the centre Shinsekai means “new world” in Japanese,
plenty on offer here. of the and this old neighbourhood looks like
Another favourite is Kanidoraku, the district is what someone envisioned the new world
famous crab izakaya with its enormous, flanked on to look like, 100 years ago.
both sides The Tsutenkaku Tower rises above

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moving 3D crab, beckoning patrons from
the street. Crab dishes go well with both by cafes, the city at the centre of the district. The
nihonshu and Japanese beer. For dessert, restaurants, nostalgic neighbourhood is a good place
try a crepe from Alcyon Creperie. The bars, and to enjoy street food like kushi-katsu (deep
“tanuki” crepe has chestnut cream, street food fried food on sticks), whiskey highballs in

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toasted soy powder, and vanilla ice cream stalls. tiny dive bars (be sure to order Suntory,
and is our favourite here. which was born and bred in Osaka),
looking at old-fashioned movie posters
Hozenji Yokocho and antique pachinko parlours.
The name of this little street in the Try takoyaki (bits of chopped octopus Osaka
Dotonbori neighbourhood, a few in a savoury batter grilled in globes the
blocks south of the canal, means “Hozen size of a golf ball) at Aji no Daimaru,
Hiroshima

Temple Alley.” The narrow pathway is where you can choose your own
choked with tiny bars and restaurants, toppings. Order some Asahi beer to go
many hung with paper chochin lanterns, with it — the famous beer company
and runs up to the Hozen Temple. originated in Osaka. There's also a spa
Though the alley is only 80m long and complex with real hot spring water and
Okinawa

2.7m wide, it hosts over 50 shops. Try corny themes called Spa World, where
katsudon (pork cutlet over rice) sold at a you can relax by getting naked with
shop of the same name, or okonomiyaki strangers.

33
OSAKA

One-Day
Itinerary
Breakfast at Osaka castle
Early morning stillness at Osaka
Castle belies the intense crowds
later in the day. Sit on a bench by the
moat with some coffee and a packet
of hotcakes from a nearby conbini
(convenience store), with a view of
stone walls so massive they seem to
blur in the distance.

Contents
Dotonbori and
Shinsaibashi shopping
The inner city neighbourhoods around

Overview
Namba are excellent for random
exploration and discovery. Within the array of kitchen utensils in Sennichimae
narrow alleys are some of the city's Doguyasuji Shopping Street, enroute
most multi-cultural dining options to Namba Parks. Snack on takoyaki As the
afternoon

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– from New Zealand meat pies, to (octopus in spheres of savoury batter).
Persian kebabs, with lots of local fare in cools, head
between. Down-time at Namba Parks south, and
Walk along the canals of Dotonbori, Take some time to chill in Namba experience
and see Glico man, newly resplendent in Parks. This shopping district was a time-warp

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LEDs; hunt for second hand shops, and beautifully designed with nature in to Japan's
vinyl records within Shinsaibashi; and mind, and green terraces break the Showa era.
then start heading south through the otherwise grey city sprawl. Nod off
watching a movie, or refill your reserves
in Bagel and Bagel. Surprisingly Osaka
enough, its main menu item is bagels,
but they also bake brownies, cookies,
Hiroshima

and muffins.

City walk: Shitennoji to


Shinsekai via Tobita Shinchi
As the afternoon cools, head south,
Okinawa

and experience a time-warp to Japan's


Showa era. The districts around Tennoji
are older and poorer, and many shops

34
OSAKA

have not been renovated since the 80s. Osaka, and very different to Kabuki-
First stop, Shitennoji, Japan's cho in Tokyo. Young women wait
oldest Buddhist temple located 2kms in the doorways, watched over
In Shinsekai,
south east of Namba Parks. Check by elderly mama-chan. Foreigners for a very
the calendars around your arrival are not encouraged, and neither is reasonable
date, as this beautiful temple hosts photography, however walking down price, you
the occasional flea market. Important the street is tolerated. can eat
seasonal festivals like the goose- Head directly north towards the your fill and
bumps inducing Doya Doya Matsuri iron beacon of Tsutenkaku. The drink some
are also held in February, when high tower stands within Shinsekai, a beers to an
school aged boys, clothed only in loin neighbourhood that exudes a Blade- excellent
cloths, run through freezing showers Runner-esque, slightly tattered glitz. day.
of water flung on them by their sadistic It’s the best place in the city for kushi-

Contents
teachers. katsu (deep-fry on a stick) restaurants,
Thrills of a different sort abound and for a very reasonable price, you can Getting
in Tobita Shinchi, 2kms south. It’s eat your fill and drink some beers to an around
the largest prostitution district in excellent day in Osaka.

Overview
Rail and
metro
The best way
to get around
Osaka. Purchase
an unlimited,

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1-day pass at
vending machines
in any of the
subway stations
from ¥800 per

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day.

Buses
Like most major
cities, buses are

Osaka
available, but
they aren’t very
easy to use for
non-Japanese
speakers.
Hiroshima

Taxis
Taxis are the most
expensive mode
of transport in
Okinawa

Japan. Think
twice before
hopping in!

35
Contents
Overview
Tokyo
HIROSHIMA Kyoto
Osaka

T
hough most well-known for its
tragic past, today, Hiroshima is one
of Japan’s most vibrant cities. Many
Hiroshima

tourists visit the city on day trips (it takes


just 90 min from Osaka on the shinkansen),
but stay a weekend and you’ll discover
a treasure-trove of historic sites, awe-
Okinawa

inspiring museums and some of the wildest


nightlife in Japan. It’s time to rediscover
this infamous city.
36
HIROSHIMA

Must See
and Do
Hiroshima Peace Memorial
Visit the UNESCO World Heritage
site, Hiroshima Peace Memorial,
a.k.a. the A-Bomb dome. It’s located
along the Motoyasu River and also
near Hiroshima Peace Park.
The fact that the shell of this iconic
building still stands today symbolises
the resilience of Hiroshima after the

Contents
attack in 1945.

Hiroshima Peace Park


History gets pretty real in the park’s

Overview
Peace Memorial Museum, with
exhibits of burnt-out school uniforms Momijidani Park
of kids who disappeared after the The perfect times to visit the park
attack and photos of hibakusha is during autumn, when the momiji
History
gets pretty

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(people who were exposed to the (Japanese maple) trees turn a vibrant
bomb’s radiation). red, or during spring, when the cherry real in the
If this sounds like too much, there blossoms are in full riot. park’s Peace
are many other monuments in the From the park, you can hike or Memorial
park to pay your respects, like the take a cable to the top of Mt. Misen Museum,

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Children’s Peace Monument. for panoramic views of the Seto with exhibits
Inland Sea. of burnt-
Itsukushima out school
This island, also known as Miyajima, Hiroshima Castle uniforms
is home to the Itsukushima shrine Although the original was destroyed of kids who Osaka
and its famous red torii gate. during WWII, the renovated structure disappeared.
Both appear to float on the sea at is pretty impressive.
Hiroshima

high tide. Inside, learn about Hiroshima’s history,


Be sure to try the momiji manju try on samurai gear, or trek to the top
(maple leaf-shaped cakes) and fresh- of the castle for expansive views of
grilled oysters. the city.
Heads up: deer roam the streets Afterwards, trawl the grounds for
Okinawa

freely and although they’re pretty the perfect picnic spot or feed the
tame, they will steal your food when koi and turtles that live in the moats
you’re not looking! around the castle.

37
HIROSHIMA

with carrots, take the ferry from


Tadanoumi Port (2h from the city)
and prepare to be mobbed!

Ninoshima
Ninoshima is another island worth
checking out. Accessible by ferry
from Hiroshima Port, it’s home to
Aki no Kofuji, the island’s own
version of Mt. Fuji.
It’s definitely off-the-beaten-
path, having once been the site for
quarantining Japanese soldiers and

Contents
atomic bomb victims during WWII.
Cycle around the island’s peaceful
trails and bring some snacks since
there aren’t any restaurants here.

Overview
Shukkeien Garden
About 15 mins walk from Hiroshima
Does an entire island overrun with
Station is Shukkeien Garden, a
bunnies sound like heaven to you? To get

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compact, Edo-period landscape
garden. Although smaller than other
your furry fix, head to Okunoshima.
famous gardens in Japan, Shukkeien
Garden is perfect if you want to
escape the crowds for a while.

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Stroll along the paths and
contemplate the miniaturised
landscapes of forests and mountains
to find your Zen in the middle of the
heaving city. Osaka

Okunoshima
Hiroshima

Does an entire island overrun with


bunnies sound like heaven to you?
If so, to get your furry fix, head
to Okunoshima, found off the
mainland. Although the rabbits were
Okinawa

first brought here to test poison gas


during WWII, today, they’re perfectly
harmless. Stuff your pockets

38
HIROSHIMA

Nightlife Looking for something more familiar?


Molly Malone’s is the closest thing you’ll
Get serious about Sake get to an authentic Irish pub – owned
Did you know that Hiroshima’s nightlife is by an Irish man – in this part of Japan.
the place to try world-class sake? They’re Popular with expats and locals, you’re
so serious about this drink that every bound to meet an interesting crowd
October, the Saijo district hosts a huge here on any night. Catch up on the latest
sake festival where you can drink to your footy or rugby match and get this – you
heart’s content.
This tiny can even get a Sunday roast here!
bar has an Other hot spots in town: The Shack,
Popular bars and clubs intimate Bar Pretty, Southern Cross, Le Jyan
Even if the Japanese staple isn’t your feel and Jyan, Tropical Bar Revolucion.
favourite tipple, there are lots of places there’s free

Contents
to cosy up with a glass of wine or whiskey karaoke if Must-try restaurants
and munch on some yakitori (Japanese- you’re into You can’t leave Hiroshima without
style meat on a stick). belting trying its claim-to-fame – okonomiyaki.
Start at Nagarekawa, Hiroshima’s out 80’s This savoury pancake is a one-size-

Overview
ultimate party district. Wander around hair band fits-all crepe, overflowing with
the streets to check out beer gardens, anthems. noodles, meat, seafood, vegetables
izakayas, bars, nightclubs, pachinko and any other ingredient you want, all
parlours, hostess clubs… you name it! smothered with a savoury-sweet sauce.

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If you’re looking for some decent craft One of the best places to chow
beer, try Raku Bar, the self-styled down on this awesome deliciousness
Japanese craft beer café. They offer is Okonomimura. In this four-storey
nomihodai (all you can drink) so you try as building, you can choose from loads
many craft beers as you like. Be sure to of okonomiyaki restaurants. Follow the

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try Kaigunsan, craft beer from Kure City crowd (or your nose), pull up a chair to
in Hiroshima Prefecture. the hot griddle (watch those elbows),
If you’re after a more rock ‘n roll and let the chef do his thing.
atmosphere to swill your whiskey or Another famous place to try
shochu, Koba cranks out the tunes until okonomiyaki in Hiroshima is Micchan. Osaka
late. Bom-san, the bar’s musician-owner, This restaurant claims to be one of the
makes you feel right at home, as though city’s first, serving up the dish since
Hiroshima

you’ve been friends for ages. Koba also the 1950s. Although there are many
hosts live music on occasion. in town, locals swear by the one in
With a name like Wonderful Joke Hatchobori.
Bar, you’re bound to be curious. This On the other hand, if you’re feeling
tiny bar has an intimate feel and there’s adventurous and you’re after a spicier
Okinawa

free karaoke if you’re into belting out version of the Japanese dish, head
80’s hair band anthems or some sweet to Lopez Okonomiyaki for jalapeno
Taylor Swift. pepper-style okonomiyaki.

39
HIROSHIMA

One-Day
Itinerary
Spend the morning at
Hiroshima Peace Park
Hiroshima’s peace park is a truly
serene and contemplative space
located in the centre of Hiroshima.
Start here in the morning to avoid the
crowds. Designed by architect Kenzō
Tange, this area was once a busy part
of downtown Hiroshima, flattened by

Contents
the 1945 Hiroshima bombing. The
park is a space to memorialise the
victims, and for contemplating
world peace.

Overview
Next, take a walk through the
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. serves as exhibition of Japan’s history
The museum is dedicated to up until 1945.
educating the world, with hopes for The
Art walk at Hiroshima Hiroshima

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a more peaceful future through the
legacyof those affected by the 1945 Museum of Art Peace
atomic bomb. Located opposite Hiroshima Castle, the Memorial
Hiroshima Castle, built in 1958, is a Hiroshima Museum of Art features Museum is
complete reconstruction of the 1590’s a collection of classical, modern, and dedicated

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original that was flattened in the contemporary works from both Japan to educating
atomic bombing. Complementary to and abroad. This impressive collection is the world,
the Peace Memorial Museum, it now complemented by a rotation of world- with hopes
class temporary exhibitions that ensure for a more
there is always something to see. peaceful Osaka
On your way to the Shukkei en future
garden, stop off for lunch at one of the through the
Hiroshima

okonomiyaki restaurants to sample the legacy


local specialty: Hiroshima-yaki.
of those
affected.
An afternoon of Zen
Dating back to 1620, this famous
Okinawa

garden is known for its miniature


natural landscapes. Stroll through the
garden along the path, taking you past

40
HIROSHIMA

multiple teahouses, offering perfect along the Momijidani river, the park is
views of the traditional Japanese one of the most beautiful maple leaf
garden aesthetics. parks in Japan.
Oysters
Famous for its beautiful floating torii are one of
gate, Itsukushima shrine is the must- Cap off the night Hiroshima’s
see centrepiece of Miyajima island. with fresh seafood most
Built along the shore of the island, Oysters are one of Hiroshima’s most celebrated
the centuries-old shrine is Miyajima’s celebrated local produce, so no trip local
namesake, translating to ‘Shrine Island.’ to the prefecture is complete without produce,
Regarded as a holy Shinto site, the a tasting. Enjoy one of the various so no trip
shrine consists of multiple buildings restaurants on Miyajima serving the to the
that appear to float on the water island’s famous barbecued oysters. prefecture
during high tide. The famous Yakigaki-no-hayashi is complete

Contents
Behind Itsukushima shrine lies serves oysters in every way imaginable. without a
Momijidani park at the base of Mt. Note that the last JR ferry leaves at tasting.
Misen. Cultivated during the Edo 8:15pm, but the last Matsudai Kisen
period when the saplings were planted ferry is not until 10:15pm.

Overview
Getting
around
Rail and
metro

Tokyo
Tokyo and
Hiroshima are
also connected
by the JR
Tokaido/Sanyo

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Shinkansen.

Buses
Ferries are the
best way to get

Osaka
to different
islands. There are
overnight ferries
for longer trips.
Hiroshima

Taxis
These are the
most expensive
mode of
transport in
Okinawa

Japan. Think
twice before
hopping in!

41
Contents
Overview
Tokyo
OKINAWA Kyoto
Osaka

F
rom the moment you arrive, you’ll see why Japan’s southernmost
prefecture is known as “The Hawaii of Japan”. With its sun-
blessed, tropical weather, and endless white sand beaches, you’ll
Hiroshima

never want to leave. Made up of more than one hundred subtropical


islands – collectively known as the Ryukyu islands and stretched over
700km of ocean – this is where the Japanese come to get away from
it all. There’s pristine oceans and coral reefs, teeming with life, for
Okinawa

divers. There’s rugged terrain, covered in lush vegetation, for hikers


and mountain-bikers. Okinawa is an adventure traveller’s dream-
come-true. Get ready to fall in love with Japan’s best-kept secret.
42
OKINAWA

Must See
and Do
Explore Shuri castle
To get there, catch a train to Shuri
station, and take a short walk to the
castle. Shuri Castle will keep you
occupied for half a day, so make sure
you give yourself plenty of time.
There are warning signs for
poisonous Habu snakes for a reason
– leave them undisturbed and you’ll

Contents
escape unscathed. After buying your
pass, explore this unique structure,
check out the gorgeous rooms, and
marvel at the lacquer hardware.

Overview
Don’t miss the traditional
performances too, where you might don’t miss the botanical gardens. Here,
even be bitten by a performing shisa you can make traditional crafts, feed
(lion-dog) for good luck! and ride Miyako ponies, and explore
Here, you
can make

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a small jungle. Downtown is good for
Go for a snorkel or hand-crafted souvenirs and sampling traditional
dive the Kerama islands the local delicacies – Miyako soba and crafts, feed
For day trips and short getaways, fresh sea grapes are a must! At Miyako and ride
visit the Tokashiki, Zamami, Aka and airport, you can rent a car or scooter if Miyako

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Geruma islands. There are plenty of you haven’t organised one beforehand. ponies, and
marine adventures like snorkelling and explore a
diving, which are world-class, or just Visit Okinawa’s picture- small jungle.
relax on any of the white sand perfect Yaeyama islands
beaches and admire the clear blue This gorgeous chain of islands is just a Osaka
sea. Camping on Zamami is popular short flight from Naha city. If you’re
too, and provides access to looking for pristine beaches, wild
Hiroshima

uninhabited islands. flora and fauna with local charm and


flavours, this is the place to be. The
Learn traditional crafts islands include Ishigaki, and Yonaguni.
at Miyakojima A couple of nights’ stay at each is
Friendly Miyakojima is renowned highly recommended.
Okinawa

for its beaches and reefs, including


Sunayama, Araguska, Yoneha, and Monkey around Ishigaki
Maehama. For the culture-vultures, Hiking, visiting beaches, and eating

43
OKINAWA

ishigaki beef are the must-do


experiences here. Cars and scooter are
the recommended way to get around
the island – you can rent these when
you arrive.
Take some time to stop by the
lookout points and explore the local
crafts shops and restaurants. Have
a picnic overseeing either Hirakubo
or Uganzaki Lighthouse. Immerse
yourself in local culture and have fun
with monkeys at Ishigaki Yaima Village.
Advanced divers can also swim with

Contents
manta rays – all the local dive shops
regularly have tours, so pick your
favourite. For longer stays, hop over to
the islands of Taketomi, Iriomote,

Overview
and Yonaguni.
Hiking boots are a must, as the
Ancient civilisations journey will involve crossing a river and
in Yonaguni
Some say passing a waterfall, but the views at
Yonaguni

Tokyo
A curious underwater formation the summit are just incredible.
is the subject of debate amongst are ancient
archaeologists (and truthers) ruins, others Take a leisurely hike
everywhere. Some say they are ancient claim aliens. up Mt. Gusuku
ruins, others claim aliens. Killjoys say it’s Killjoys This distinctive rocky mountain of

Kyoto
just a natural formation. say it’s just Iejima is only a 30min ferry from
Decide for yourself with an a natural mainland Okinawa. The course will
unforgettable close-up dive (make sure formation. have you passing through torii gate and
you’re properly licensed), or view it via visiting a sacred shrine. It’s suitable for
glass-bottom boat. hikers of all levels. Though hiking boots Osaka
aren’t required, enclosed footwear is
Conquer Mt. Omoto, advisable.
Hiroshima

Okinawa’s highest peak Take more than a few selfies with


At 582m above sea level, Mt. Omoto the panoramic views at the top and
on Ishigaki island takes about 2h for make sure you quench your hard-
a return trip and the views are well earned thirst afterwards at a local
worth the effort. It’s pretty small eatery downtown.
Okinawa

compared to other treks on mainland Try Okinawa's soba noodles, which


Japan, but it’s still challenging, so it’s are thicker than udon noodles, and
best suitable for experienced hikers. often served with pork belly.

44
OKINAWA

Outdoor
Activities
Live the Island life on
Kerama islands
As the closest group of islands off
mainland Okinawa, you can easily
enjoy a day trip or a short stay here
compared to the southern-based
islands. Tokashiki, Zamami, Aka,
and Geruma make up this veritable
smorgasbord of sightseeing and

Contents
adventure activities. From viewing
humpback whales to camping,
and of course – diving, snorkelling,
and sunbaking – you’ll always be

Overview
entertained. At night, enjoy the
beautiful fireworks or stargaze with For something a little different,
friends over a local beer or sake. go exploring around the Boraga
“pumpkin cave”.
Meet the
See the postcard-worthy cheeky

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beaches of Miyakojima Feed the fishes in Ishigaki residents
Get ready to try snorkelling, diving, With a coast dotted with beaches, of Monkey
stand-up paddle boarding, kayaking, the reef of Yonehara is definitely a Forest at
and even banana-boating. There are highlight. Here, friendly locals will Ishigaki

Kyoto
also a tonne of beaches that are the advise you of the top snorkelling Yaima
stuff of postcards like Sunayama, spots, and may even give you Village
Maenohama, Yoshino, and Aragusku. some food. It’s not for you – bring and don’t
it with you snorkelling so you’ll be forget to try
surrounded by hungry and colourful their local Osaka
tropical fish. signature
Meet the cheeky residents of dish,
Hiroshima

Monkey Forest at Ishigaki Yaima ishigaki


Village and don’t forget to try their beef.
local signature dish, ishigaki beef.

Diving with aliens


Okinawa

in Yonaguni
This is the southern-most island
of the Yaeyama islands (in fact,

45
OKINAWA

the whole of Japan). A mysterious


underwater rock formation is a must-
see attraction here. One theory
claims that it was formed naturally,
while others say it was man-made.
Either way, definitely go have a look
and decide for yourself. Even if you don’t
dive, you can view this unusual wonder
on board a glass-bottomed boat.

Hike Mt. Gusuku


This unique landmark on Ie island has
a breathtaking trail, suitable for all

Contents
levels of hikers.
It winds past a shrine lined by
several torii gates, all the way up to a
summit with spectacular views of the

Overview
town below, the deep blue sea, and
mainland Okinawa. There are steps Ryukyu islands diving
all the way to the top, so while hiking Diving is no doubt one of the main
shoes are not necessary, enclosed attractions of Okinawa. Speak to any of

Tokyo
shoes are highly recommended. the local (accredited) dive shops about
your level of experience and what you’d
like to see and they can point you in the
right direction. You can greet a rainbow
of exotic fish, and perhaps even a turtle

Kyoto
or two. Head towards Ishigaki for a
manta ray experience, but make sure
you bring your diving license!

Spider loop mountain Osaka


biking area
Gearheads can challenge themselves
Hiroshima

with this track based on mainland


Okinawa. Check out shorter trails like
The Chute and Spider Alley (don’t
worry, the giant spiders are harmless,
despite their threatening appearance).
Okinawa

To enjoy the bumps and thrills, make


your way to Kaneda, which is accessible
by car.

46
OKINAWA

Nightlife
Izakayas
These cosy Japanese gastro pubs are the
heart of Okinawa nightlife, and they’re
chock full of character. Here you’ll find
Japanese co-workers or friends sitting
cross-legged on tatami mats enjoying
a wide range of shared dishes. We
recommend ordering the local specialty –
Okinawa soba, of which every izakaya will
have their unique, secret recipe.
Some izakaya offer all-you-can-eat or Pankiewicz. There’s great food and

Contents
all-you-can-drink specials for a set fee. drinks, and is often filled with martial
There’s no need to search for a specific
There is a artists making their pilgrimage to the
izakaya, just head to the nearest one, wide range birthplace of karate.
point at a few items on the picture menu of cuisine. Parker’s Mood Jazz Club serves up

Overview
and enjoy. Diners can fine wines with live jazz, while Gold Disc
choose from caters for those who long for the days
Drinks Thai, Indian, of rockabilly and Elvis. At Hateruma
For beverages, the local Orion beer Nepalese, on Kokusai Street, there are nightly
Mexican,

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reigns supreme. For something stronger, performances of traditional Okinawan
try the awamori. Although similar to sake, Turkish, music, with songs played on the three-
awamori is made with Thai rather than Greek and string sanshin.
Japanese rice, and served with a jug of Italian.
cold water and ice. Chatan

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You pour and mix your own drink, and About 45min north of Naha is the
traditionally the drink of your superior. beachside entertainment area of
For those looking for something alcohol- Chatan. In close proximity to the U.S.
free, try the sanpincha (jasmine tea) military base, there is a wide range of
or one of the local fruit juices, acerola international cuisine. Diners can choose Osaka
(similar to cranberry) or shikuwasa (similar from Thai, Indian, Nepalese, Mexican,
to a lime). Turkish, Greek, and Italian restaurants.
Hiroshima

In the capital, Naha City, Sakaemachi The Okinawa Brewing Company’s


Arcade is filled with small bars where Mihama Café, has the best selection of
you can meet the locals. craft beers on the island.
Your night wouldn’t be complete without
Naha Nightlife a line dance and a ride on a mechanical
Okinawa

Naha is home to some excellent nightlife. bull, so pull on your boots and head over
The Dojo Bar is owned by karate to Nashville Restaurant and Rodeo,
black belt and British ex-pat, James “The place to git yer country on.”

47
OKINAWA

One-Day Getting
Itinerary around
Monorail
For a quick stop-over The monorail
If you are travelling elsewhere and only navigates
Okinawa is just a stopover, we’d around Naha.
Though the
suggest to stay close by the airport. transportation
Chances are, this might be in Naha is efficient, it
city. There’s plenty to do here and can be confusing
for anyone that
getting around is easy with busses,
doesn’t know
monorails, or taxis. To utilise your their way around,
time well, a taxi will be your best bet. For a day-trip or speak the

Contents
language.
Though it’s the costlier option than the If you’ve got 24 hours in Okinawa, WE
others, you can get to exactly where HAVE GOOD NEWS! There’s a lot more
Taxi
you want to go. time to squeeze in a bit more. Hire a
There are plenty
Head to Hokusai Street in car and drive to the northern part of

Overview
of taxis around,
Naha, which is lined with souvenir the island, where you’ll find beautiful but these will
leave you out of
shops and places to try delicious local beaches and less tourist crowds.
pocket.
cuisine. Next, hop in a cab and head Head to Motobu Peninsula, a
to Shuri Castle, the palace of the beautiful region surrounded by crystal
Planes
clear ocean. Visit Okinawa’s Churaumi

Tokyo
Ryuku Empire. From the
If you’ve got time afterwards, head Aquarium, which is one of the largest mainland,
Okinawa is an
to Okinawa World – just 30min from in the world and a must-see. While
easy plane ride to
Shuri Castle – where you can take you’re here, take a walk around Ocean the city of Naha.
a look at the museum, explore the Expo Park to learn about local sea-life. Islands closer

Kyoto
natural cave and grab a bite to eat. Don't forget to stop at Nakijin to mainland
Okinawa are
It’s also a great place to grab some Castle too, one of the largest castles
accessible by
handmade souvenirs for the family! in Okinawa. Depending on your boat, whereas
budget, we’d recommend staying at another flight

Osaka
is required for
one of the resorts up this end of the
islands further
island – it will be well worth the money south.
and give you more time to explore this
Hiroshima

untouched part of Okinawa. Buses


Though buses
connect within
the islands,
these aren’t very
Drive to the northern part easy to use for
Okinawa

of Naha island, where non-Japanese


speakers.
you’ll find beautiful
beaches and less crowds.
48
Contents
Thanks to our
contributors:
See our other guides

Overview
Alexis Zahner
Amelia Gambier
Thailand Survival Guide
Tips, advice, warnings, and alerts to
Amy Mckie
make the most of your Thailand holiday.
Ayli Chong

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Like the tourism promotion says,
Bjorn Koolen Thailand is amazing.
Chris Willson
Ed Salvato US City Guide
Felicity Tillack From Portland to Austin, find out

Kyoto
Isabella Cornell where to go and what to do in the
US’s 7 coolest cities and get ready to
Jenie Gabriel
experience the "real" America.
Kavish Weerawardane

Osaka
Lauren Smith Mexico Insider's Guide
Lisette Andersson White sand beaches, clear blue water,
Matthew Rogers ruined temple… get our Insider’s Guide
Hiroshima

Nick West to must-do Cenotes & ruins to see the


Pasqualina Perone best of the Caribbean coast.

Selena Hoy
First 24 hours in India
Shante Cruz
Arriving in India for the first time can
Okinawa

Suzanne Bhagan
be overwhelming. Survive the first 24h
Teagan Short in India’s top 10 cities and you’ll feel at
Timothy Trahan home in no time.

49
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