Instructions to the sewing  
PDF pattern    

 
  
 
 

 
 
 
 
Shopping list 2 

Printing instructions 3 

Sizing instructions 4 
SIZE CHART 4 

Pattern cut instructions 5 

Cut instructions 6 

Sewing instructions 8 
Detail preparation 8 
The main details 8 
Lining 11 
Ironing 12 
Skirt hem 12 
Attaching the bodice to the skirt 12 
Installing zipper 14 
Straps and attaching lining 15 
Preparing and attaching cups 17 
 

2 
 
Shopping list 
 
You will need the following materials to sew the Rose Cafe bustier dress:  
 
- The main fabric​. In the sample it is textured tweed with lurex, which is the 
best. I recommend you to take soft, thick or medium thick, non-stretchy 
fabrics or with a small percentage of elastane in a composition.  
- Interfacing​ to stabilize the main parts of the bodice, should be thick enough, 
but not stiff like paper 
- Lining​. If you use stretchy fabric, a lining should be stretchy too.  
- Ribbon​ for straps . Also can be sewn from any fabric. 
- Hidden zipper​. 
- Underwire channeling (optional)​ I use it to cover an overlock stitch on the 
cup seam, in this case channeling is a decoration. You can leave it with an 
overlock stitch if you don't have this channeling or use soft elastic. Also you 
can put matching underwires in channels, but the instructions don't provide 
it.  
 
 
Main fabric  0,95 m 38” 

Interfacing  0,35 m 14” 

Lining  0,90 m 36” 

Ribbon  2,20 m 90” 

Hidden zipper  1 pc (40-50 cm/16-19”) 

Underwire channeling   0,6 m 24” 

 
 
 
Printing instructions 
 
The Rose Cafe bustier dress pattern consists of two PDF files: BUSTIER 
PATTERN.pdf and SKIRT PATTERN.pdf. You are able to print out and sew 
only the bustier top part. Bustier part doesn't need to be assembled, the 
skirt part does.  
Both pattern files designed with layers. There is an option to print only your size 
or few necessary sizes. Open pattern PDF files in Adobe Acrobat Reader. 
Click on the icon “Layers”. From the list of layers uncheck “eye” icon to sizes 
that you don’t want to print. There should be always checked “FOR ALL 
SIZES” layer, it contains all pattern names and notes.  

3 
 

 
Make sure the printer settings are set to 100% (Actual size) and print only the 
first page with the test square, the inner square must be 5cm x 5cm (or 2” x 
2” on the outer square for inches). Check it with a ruler. If the measurements 
are correct, print the remaining pages.  
 
Sizing instructions 
 
1. Take your measurements 
Measure the body circumference at the bust, underbust, waist and hip. Keep 
the tape straight and parallel to the floor.  

2. Examine the size chart on the pattern 

Compare your measurements to the size chart and see which size is closest to 
you. In this pattern underbust measurement is very important, because the 
waist and hip will be easier to make wider or narrower in the pattern. 
  

SIZE CHART 
 
  XXS  XS  S  M  L  XL 

Bust cm  78  82  86  90  94  98 

Bust inches  30,7  32,3  33,8  35,4  37  38,6 

Underbust  66  70  74  78  82  86 

cm 

Underbust  26  27,5  29,1  30,7  32,3  34,6 

4 
 inches 

Waist cm  60  64  68  72  76  80 

Waist  23,6  25,2  26,8  28,3  29,9  31,5 

inches 

Hips cm  88  92  96  100  104  108 

Hips inches  34,6  36,2  37,8  39,4  40,9  42,5 

 

3.Double check by flat pattern measure  

Measure the waistline, hips and underbust lines subtract seam allowances and 
darts. Also check the length between the waistline and underbust line 
(between the bottom edge of the top and the cup seam without seam 
allowances).   
 
The bust and waist ease of this style is 0-2 cm (0-1”), it means this dress is 
tight-fitting. The hip ease is 0-5 cm (0-2”).   
 
If your waist measurement + 0-2 cm (0-1”) or your hip measurement + 0-5 cm 
(0-2”) do not correspond to a pattern measurement, take in or add on 
pattern before cutting it out of paper. Do it from the side seams, both on the 
front and back pieces evenly.  
 
If the length between the waistline and underbust line does not correspond to 
a pattern measurement, shorten or lengthen pattern before cutting it out of 
paper. Do it on the top front and back pieces adding below the waistline or 
taking in above.   
 
A cup size in every dress size is different. Watch a video tutorial on how to adjust 
a cup size on a bustier pattern if you need this option: : 
https://youtu.be/7iG0zB1tquM 
 
Dress size  Cup size  

XXS  AA 

XS  A 

S  B 

M  C 

L  D 

XL   E 

5 
 
Pattern cut instructions  
 
This pattern contains 2 parts: the bodice (bustier), which details are each on its 
own page, you don't need to assemble it, just cut the details; the second part 
is the skirt part, which must be assembled (by trimming or folding margins 
and taping together).  
 
The pattern has numeric markings to help you figure out which pages should 
be next to each other. The skirt pattern contains 8 pages, 2 pages in a row, 4 
rows. Line up the all pattern lines and use clear tape to tape the pages 
together. Make sure you are lining up the edges straight and that the pages 
are laying flat. If you prefer, you can assemble all the pieces and then trace 
your size off so that if you need a different size you don’t have to reassemble 
the pattern. 
 
Pattern pieces have 1 cm (0,4” 25/64”) seam allowances, the skirt hem allowance 
is 3 cm (1,2” 1 3/16”).  
 
Cut instructions   
 
Fabric should be folded x2 along the grainline. Cut the bodice parts out of the 
main fabric, lining and interfacing (​ (int.) on the pattern pieces)​, and skirt 
parts out of the main fabric and lining. Make note of the grain line and 
centerpieces that need to be placed on the fold. Don't forget to mark the 
darts and other notches.  
Note that the lining skirt is shorter than the main fabric skirt and is equal to the 
main fabric skirt without the hem seam allowance. 
 
 
 

  

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  Detail  Main fabric  Lining  Interfacing 

A  Front bodice center  1 pc on the  1 pc on the  1 pc on the 

piece  fold  fold  fold 

B  Front bodice side piece  2 pc  2 pc  2 pc 

C  Back bodice side piece  2 pc  2 pc  2 pc 

D  Back bodice center piece  2 pc  2 pc  2 pc 

E  Upper cup piece  2 pc  2 pc  2 pc 

F  Lower cup center piece  2 pc  2 pc  2 pc 

G  Lower cup side piece  2 pc  2 pc  2 pc 

H  Front skirt piece  1 pc on fold  1 pc on fold   

I  Back skirt piece  2 pc  2 pc   

 
 

7 
 
 
Sewing instructions 
 
To understand the instruction better, you are welcome to watch a 
video with the whole sewing process on my YouTube channel: 
DARIA Patternmaking ​https://youtu.be/yCRjTz81oa0 
 
 
1. Detail preparation  
 
Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the all bodice details. It helps the bodice 
maintain its shape. Iron on the stabilizing stay tape along the top edges of 
each bodice detail to prevent them from stretching. Also iron on the 
interfacing tape along the skirt edges, where the zipper is going to be and 
on the bottom hems.  
 

 
 
2. The main details 
 
1. Pin the centerpiece of the bodice 
and front side pieces together. The 
same way pin back centerpieces 
and back side pieces together. 
Stitch together. Note the notches, 
pin and sew the lower cup center 

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 pieces and lower side pieces together.  
If you have a plaid or striped fabric, the garment will look better if the stripes in 
the seams are aligned.  
 
2. Pin and stitch the side seams of the bodice.  

 
3. When all the main parts of the bodice are sewn together, use overlock 
(serger) to prevent fraying. Also you can use zig-zag stitch or skip this step if 
your fabric does not fray so much, because the bodice will be covered by 
lining. Also do this with the sewn cup details. 
 

 
 
4. Pin and sew the skirt front and back darts, baste with temporary stitches if 
needed (depends on your skills, this won't be mentioned in the text further).  
5. Overlock all the skirt details except the top edges with darts. 

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6. Put all the bodice seam allowances to the center and top stitch in 5 mm 
(0,2”) from the seams. Side seam allowances go to the front center. It is easy 
to follow the sewing machine foot edge along the seam, it will be 
approximately 5 mm top stitch depending on your sewing machine.  
Do the same with cups. Remember to put the seam allowance to the center 
piece.  

7. Overlock the top edges of the bodice and back center edges if your fabric is 
fraying.  

8. Stitch upper cup details to lower cups, overlock the edges, put allowances to 
the upper detail and top stitch as we have done it in the bodice part.  

 
 
3. Lining 
 
1. Sew all parts together as we have done with the main fabric, skip the 
overlock and top stitching part. Stitch the front seams, back seams, side 
seams, sew cup details together. 

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2. Sew the skirt side seams and the back center seam, leaving the space for 
the zipper. Measure your actual zipper length and make a notch where the 
back center seam starts. (In my zipper installation method I sew additional 
1,5-2 cm (1”), see further).  
3. Overlock skirt lining center seam as open seam and the side seams as 
closed seams. 

4. Ironing

1. Put the lining bodice seam allowances towards the centers and press the 
seams close.  
2. Do the same with the skirt part. Seam allowances on the skirt go backwards. 
Press the back center seam open.  
3. Let's prepare the bottom hem at once. Fold 0,7-1 cm on the lining skirt part 
and press. It will be much easier to fold it for a second time when sewing.  
4. Press the cups very slightly.  
5. Press all the seams on the main fabric skirt open.  
6. Fold 3 cm and press the bottom hem. Be careful at rounded areas near the 
side seams.   
 

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5. Skirt hem 
 
1. Finish the hem on the main fabric skirt if you are sure about the dress 
length. If not sure, you can do it in the end. I​ prefer to do it now because it is 
easier for me to finish the skirt fully and then to attach the bodice.   
2. Fold 0,7-1 cm on the prefold lining hem and stitch the seam as soon as 
possible to the folded line, 1 mm approximately. 
3.  

 
 
6. Attaching the bodice to the skirt 
 
1. Attach the bodice to the bottom with 
their right sides. Use pins to match skirt 
darts with seams, and the skirt center 
notch with the bodice center notch. 
Notice that the bodice side seams are 
not lined up with skirt side seams in 
this pattern.  
When it is bustier, it is better when a side 
seam is next to a cup to provide 
additional support to a cup, especially 
if we use bones. With this pattern you 
can sew the corset with bones, 
underwires and foam cups, maybe I 
will show you the technology next time. 
But this model is a lightweight dress, so I didn't want to complicate it. At the 
same time we have the skirt side seam which should divide the skirt 
approximately on 2 parts, (a front part usually is a little bit wider).  
 
2. Sew the parts together and use an overlock. 
 
3. Press the seam allowance to the skirt side.  
 
4. Instead of sewing darts on the lining part of the 
skirt, lay folds from the dart notches. Match the 
notches at the end of each dart line. Pin them 
together. Also pin the fold towards the center. 

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 Leave pins in until attaching the bodice to the bottom. Do this with all 4 
lining skirt darts.  
5. Attach the lining bodice part to the bottom with their right sides. Use pins to 
match the skirt folds with bodice seams, and the skirt center notch with the 
bodice center notch. 
6. Sew the bodice and the skirt together. Stitch from the skirt left side to 
control the folds and their direction. Overlock and press the seam towards 
the skirt.  

 
 
7. Press the folds on the skirt. Find an approximate dart point and press the 
fold that should end in this point. It turns out an unstitched dart that can 
open up and the lining will not hold down the hips. Do this with all 4 skirt 
darts.  
 
8. Press the hem both on lining and the main dress. 
 
7. Installing zipper 
 
I will show the way how I do it without hand basting, you can sew it the way you 
like.  
If your invisible zipper is too long and needs to be trimmed, measure and cut 
your zipper to the appropriate length. Assuming you’ve trimmed your 
invisible zipper, you will need to create a new bottom stop by simply hand 
stitching around the zipper teeth. Heat seal the end of the zipper using a 
lighter. 
 
1. Place the closed zipper right side down along the seam edge. Leave 1cm 
from the top edge. Leave a 1,5-2 cm (½-⅔”) zipper tail, the zipper bottom 
stop should be below the stitched back seam starts. 
2. Start at the top edge and stitch 5 mm from the zipper teeth on the zipper 
tape with your usual sewing foot along all the zipper until the back seam 
starts.  

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3. Pin the zipper’s tape tail on the back seam, 
match the centers. Mark the waist seam 
placement on the second zipper side, 
because they should match when the zipper 
is closed. Pin the second seam edge to the 
zipper matching the waist seam with the 
mark. Stitch the second side from the 
bottom to the top. I do this step instead of 
basting. This prevents the zipper from 
shifting and allows you to stitch the zipper 
down more neatly. 
4. Now put on an invisible zipper foot. Check 
that waist seam is matched. Open the 
zipper and put the zipper slider below the 
back seam start. That is why you should 
leave a 1,5-2 cm (½-⅔”) zipper tail and sew 
the zipper until the back seam starts, not a 
zipper stop.  
5. Start at the top edge and stitch in place 
until the foot reaches the back seam start. 
6. Do the same with the second side.  
7. Release the zipper slider through the small 
remaining hole between the zipper and the 
back seam and close the zipper.  
8. Stitch the zipper tape tail to the back seam allowances. 
9. Press the zipper.  
 
8. Straps and attaching lining 
 
1. We have 4 straps out of a ribbon, 55 cm (22”) each. You can do longer straps 
to have bigger bows. Straps go from the dress with a small angle, so cut the 
ribbon corner to form this angle (approximately 0,5 cm (0,2”) to cut from one 
corner). Heat seal cut ends. 

 
2. Pin the straps matching to the seams on the back.  
3. Attach the lining to the main dress. Pin along the top edge all over the 
bodice, including underbust edges. Match all the seams and centers. Stitch 1 
cm (⅜”) along the top edge.  

14 
  
 
4. Cut 4 corners as close as possible to the stitch carefully as shown in picture 
below. Cut the cup seam allowances within every 1-1,5 cm (½”). Do it very 
carefully, you are not able to cut the stitch. 

 
5. Turn the bodice out to the right side and understitch the lining as far as 
possible to keep it from rolling toward the outside. Also understitch the 
round cup seam area as far as possible. If you will do this step, ironing all 
corners out will be much easier.  

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 6. Turn out the bodice completely to the right side. Turn out the corners 
carefully, they should be as sharp as possible. Press the top so that the lining 
is not visible from the outside. 
7. Attach the lining to the zipper. Open the zipper. Turn inside out the zipper 
area. Flip the lining over from the top. Put zipper foot or position your needle 
as close to the zipper teeth as possible. Sew down the lining along the zipper 
teeth. Leave approximately 1 cm (½”) before the back seam. Do the same 
with the second side.  

 
 
8. Turn the skirt inside out between the lining and the main fabric layers and 
attach the linings waist seam allowance to the main dress waist seam 
allowance. Layers will look like this:  

 
 
9. Preparing and attaching cups 
 
1. Attach straps to the cups with the angle, like we have done it on the back. 
Straps should be placed 1-2 cm (½-1”) from the upper cup side. Put the lining 
to the cup right sides together and pin down along the top edges. Sew 
along the top edges and understitch on the lining.  

16 
  
 
2. Fold the lining inside the main cup and pin down so that the lining isn't 
visible from the right side. Make sure that the lining is not bigger than the 
cup (it will be) and cut off 2-3 mm (0,1”) from the bottom of the lining (only in 
the cup center area). 

 
 
3. Pin the lining to the bottom of the cup. Stitch 5 cm (2”) along the bottom of 
the cup to attach the lining completely. Overlock from the wrong side.  

 
 
4. Iron the cup. Do not press it all over, very carefully from the sides. It is nice if 
you have a round ironing block to iron and form the cup. But if not, just 
press it carefully with the iron tip. 
5. Close the overlock seam with an underwire channeling (it is optional, it is ok if 
the overlock seam is still visible). Sew down the underwire channeling along 
the bottom of the cup very precisely and overlap the bottom edge with it. 
Stitch 1 mm (0,04”) along the top edge of the channeling. There is usually a 
stitch on the channeling, you can sew exactly over this existing seam. (​ It 
won't be put an underwire here, but you are able to do it. I sew down a 
channeling here for decoration purposes.) 

17 
 

 
6. Now there is the stitch that is visible from the right side of the cup (aprox. 8 
mm 0,3” from the cup bottom edge). To help yourself you can stitch it once 
more with any contrasting color upper thread and bigger stitch length. Now 
we have to attach the cup to the bodice so that the rounded underbust 
edges of the bodice overlap this bottom cup stitch (contrasting thread) by 
exactly 1 mm (0,04”). It is safer to baste it. Match and pin the cup center 
seam with the seam on the bodice. Line up and pin the cup sides with 
corners on the bodice. Topstitch on the right side 1 mm (0,04”) along the 
edge. This seam should overlay previous channeling seam from the wrong 
side.  

 
 
7. Topstitch from the wrong side along the bottom edge of the underwire 
channeling. If you don't use this channeling, topstitch the cup line from the 
right side 5mm (0,2”) from the seam. Do tiny dense zigzag stitches on the 

18 
 ends of the channeling and just cut the ends as close as possible to zigzag 
stitches.  
 

 
8. Press everything well and enjoy your brand new Rose Cafe bustier dress!  
 
I will love if you will take a photo of your result and post on Instagram with a 
hashtag #rosecafebustierdress ! 
 
 

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