&D\ PATTERNS DRESSMAKING AMORE RUBY DRESS #219 SIZE: 2-20 COMPLEXITY: & dressmakingamore.com ©2022 DRESSMAKING AMORERUBY DRESS TABLE OF CONTENTS DESCRIPTION Design description of the Ruby dress, with fabric & tools recommendations. 01 MATERIALS What materials and tools you will need for your dress for best results. oO 2 SIZING CHART Take measurements, and use the sizing chart to choose which size pattern to use. oO 3 PRINTING THE PATTERN How to correctly print your pattern, using the linked step-by-step video, 04-05 ADJUSTING THE PATTERN Check pattern with personal measurements, and make any changes you might need. 06 FABRIC LAYOUT Cut out your fabric based on your size pattern. O7 SEWING STEPS Simple, detailed sewing steps to guide you through the process. Os 10 TA DAA! Share a photo of your finished piece using the hashtag #rubydresspattern! 11 + BONUS Complete design checklist for the entire sewing process of the Ruby dress! DRESSMAKING AMOREee RC se ue eee mean Cy resceT Peed ee aude Ree meee Pte Eu aetna eee eee RUBY DRESS DESCRIPTION A beautifully fitted stretch knit dress can make the most perfect little dress - and this Ruby design has it all! With long, sleeves, a slight boat neckline, and a center back seam, this, pretty dress creates a gorgeous silhouette. Plus, this pattern comes in 2 lengths to choose from: mini and midi -Close-fitted - Long sleeves - Soft boat neckline ~ Length at center back: Mini = 81 cm (34”) & Midi = 120 em (47") ~Center back seam FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS ‘Amediumweight, moderate stretch knit fabric with 40-50% stretch that has at least 5% elastane is recommended. Such as: French Terry, Ponte de Roma, Brushed Poly, Jersey, ITY. (On the model (Size 4, mini length, height 174 cm) Example wine-colored dress is made of a Brushed Poly, and the plum-colored dress is made of a Jersey. EQUIPMENT 1. Sewing machine 2. Serger” 3. Iron and an ironing board 4.Glass-head pins 5, Clapper for cooling your seams “TIP: If you don't havea serger, you can use a serger imitation ‘seam on your sewing machine, or a narrow zig-zag stitch. EXTRAS: - Make a fitted knit top out of this pattern - Use stretchy lace for a romantic, formal look - Try different hemming techniques DRESSMAKING AMORE 1RUBY DRESS. MATERIALS MATERIALS & TOOLS OO ~ 1.25m(1.5 yds) stretch knit fabric 1 Machine needle for knit fabric (twin, stretch, jersey, ballpoint, etc.) CO Matching thread CO Glasshead pins OF Scissors 1 Measurement tape TIP: How much fabric do you need? Length of dress + length of sleeve = amount of fabric needed. (If fabric is 58"-60" wide.) Jersey Brushed Poly FABRIC AMOUNT (width = 150 cm/58"-60") SIZE 2-8 10-14 16-20 sant 100cm (1.1yd) 125em (1.36 yd) 150m (1.65 yd) FABRIC AMOUNT veo | 170cm (185yd) | 185cm (2) 200m (2.2 yd) “Suggested fabric amount includes extra 5% for shrinkage and evening out. PREP THE FABRIC Prepping the fabric will help you avoid shrinkage. Some fabrics shrink more than others, such as ones that contain natural fibers like linen and cotton. They shrink more than synthetic fabric. So, wash* and iron them before working with them for best results. *Washit just how you will take care of your finished piece, following the care instructions for your fabric. (Polyester fabric can be pressed and steamed.) **Washing stretch knit fabric before using itis very important. It must be washed in a washing machine with warm water and dried at room temperature. EX: Handwash, machine wash ona gentle cycle, steam, etc. DRESSMAKING AMORERUBY DRESS. SIZE CHART a xs-s =m bx xL-2XL 2xL-axt Lous 2 4 6 8 10 2 4 6 8 20 aR. 24 36 8 40 aoe 46 ano) 52 ux 6 8 0 2 4 % ® 20 22 24 nla | as |e | ae es | ar | aes) at | SI ust Alcs ce 92 % ~~ WO | |) OT w[ ms | 26 cl at agat| econ | aa aoe | oa memo | oe waist = 6 | 68 2 7680 a 88 %4 98 wes es ar |e | aos as | as wes | awe =) 06 so | | ue | WaT es [ian | et 9 FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS (cm) — xs sm ba xeon 2n-9K. us 2 ee) wo | 2 |) w | 6 | 6 | 2 Mauunctuce | eis ais, | at? | a7) sai | ais | gt aan | a2 | a woiuncTacs | ao | wo | wos | wos | m | m | ms | ms | we | wo uwmamve | 9 | sag |e) waist 172 3” z | 2» | % | 3 | aos | as | as | 47s | 49 ws 172 as | ass | as | aos | sis | sa | 56 | 58 | 0 | o2 aicee 1/2 yea aed (eee eet see col ms | ws |» ‘Take 3 key measurements: ~ BUST: Measure over the widest part of your chest. - WAIST: Bend slightly to the side, place the measuring tape around where your bend is, and measure. = HIPS: Place your feet hip-width apart, and measure around the fullest part of your hips. "Your measurement tape should not be too tight - you should be able to put at least 1 finger underneath the tape. *When working on a dress choose your pattern based on your bust measurement and adjust hip area and waist area if needed. DRESSMAKING AMORERUBY DRESS. PRINTING THE PATTERN HOW TO PRINT Ai ——S Uncheck “Two-Sided” box. ee = onanaten: TA) To = 5 : ase pare sor Set the ‘Scale’ to 100%. nae Ce a —s— cones 1 B “TIP: Watch the step-by-step video lesson on how to correctly ©) (re BB aterm JA om — print your PDF sewing patterns ‘on my YouTube channel at: “If you are printing from a home printer, choose the pattern file Dressmaking Amére named “AdLetter’. This pattern can be printed on both Ad and Letter formats. The Letter format will have slightly smaller margi Please print from a computer rather than a phone. Uncheck the "Two-sided" box. Set the “Scale” to 100%. Print the first page of the pattern, A1. Measure the test square and make sure it is 10 em x 10 cm. Print the entire pattern and tape it together. Toassemble the pattern, you will find these guides on each page that will help you put it together: -Circles in the corners help you match up the pages together - Letters indicate the rows ~ Numbers indicate the columns The pattern comes with seam allowances. *You can also p ‘your pattern using Adobe Acrobat Reader, choosing to print with “Actual Size” selected. DRESSMAKING AMORERUBY DRESS. ACROBAT PRINTING HOW TO PRINT - Using the Free Adobe Acrobat Reader program This pattern can be printed on both A4 and Letter formats. The Letter format will have slightly smaller margins. 1. Open your pattern PDF in Adabe Acrobat Reader. 2. Ifthe pattern has layers, open the layers window. 3, Select the eye of the layer you want to open. IMPORTANT: DO NOT close the eye of the bottom 3 layers - these include very important guiding frames for printing and cutting out your pattern. 4. Open the printing window. 5, Make sure that “Actual size” is selected. 5, Print the first page of the pattern, Ai. Measure the test square and make sure itis either 3° x 3", or 10x 10 cm as the square indicates. 6.Print the entire pattern and tape it together. “The circles in the corners help you match up the pages together. “The letters indicate the rows, and the numbers indicate the columns. “The pattern comes with seam allowances. 1 4 wx ola OQr~|BLaD a= i Ct it ae = ‘Prnte: Srother MEG 145000 8 Atances oy L . ——_ mn b aan || I I ‘bo noT oRUETE-cUlDeS u oarcmene || Sen [ \ Pre eo DRESSMAKING AMORERUBY DRESS. ADJUSTING THE PATTERN CHECK MEASUREMENTS It is important to review and adjust the pattern to your personal measurements, to include the needed ease in order to achieve the desired design silhouette and a perfect fit. ‘Le need these measurements: 1) BUST, 2) WAIST, 3) HIPS, 4) BICEP 2. Measure your pattern at these control lines and compare with your measurements. Don't take seam. allowances into account as they are included in the pattern. Use the guide in step 3. 8. Check lines on the pattern: HORIZONTAL LINES: = BUST LINE = 1/4 bust measurement -0.5 cm ease (-.25") = WAIST LINE = 1/4 waist measurement HIP LINE at FRONT & BACK = 1/4 hips +0.5 cmease (+.25") = BICEP = upper arm circumference + 2cm ease (+.75") “More information about ease in chart below. VERTICAL LINES: -LENGTH OF SKIRT = Check the length of your skirt from the waist down, using the table below as a guide LENGTH OF SLEEVES = Check and correct, if needed, the length of the sleeves 4, Make changes to the pattern as needed. At this point you will see if you need to add to or subtract from the pattern. PATTERN PIECES Overall design ease for the Ruby dress: ey eONy A if ease: to achit she design & provide ifort CO 2.Back {Ease canbenegtive() and postive ht pends onthe desig and fabric) pice size |_BUST WAIST HIPS BICEP 2-8 [10-20 | 28 | 10-20| 28 | 10-20| 28 | 10-20 er +1am | +1cm | +2cm | +2cm | +3cm cee (C2 cam | C2 SKIRT LENGTH GUIDE ‘romwsist downto hem 50 cm (20"): mi 61cm (24"):above-knee 66 cm (26"):at-knee 71 cm (28"): below-knee 81cm (32"): midi 91 cm (36"): maxi 105 cm (41"):floor DRESSMAKING AMORERUBY DRESS. FABRIC LAYOUT CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS 1. Choose the right layout for your fabric, A or B. Fold the fabric and lay out your pattern as shown in the technical images below, pinning or using weights to hold down the fabric, and cut. 2, Make sure to mark all control points and notches. CUT PIECES C1. FRONT - cut 4 SELF on fold C2. BACK - cut 2 SELF CO 3, SLEEVE - cut 2 SELF IMPORTANT: Look for the grainline (shown with arrows on the pattern) tobe parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. This prevents the fabric from skewing. ‘A Pattern layout for printed fabric. *SELF is a technical name for your selvage edge selvage edge main fabric, serger or rolled seam [SDRIGHT side of fabric [ WRONG side of fabric — Told Told No ‘SEAM ALLOWANCES: Are i . Allseams: 0.8 cm (.3") = Hem edges: 0.5 em (25")for narrow B Pattern layout for fabric with no print (for an economic layout). selvage edge selvage edge fold US 2-20; 170-200 cm (1.85 - 2.2 yds) Fabric width 150 cm (60") DRESSMAKING AMORERUBY DRESS | SEWING STEPS 1- 5 Please watch the Ruby Dress video tutorial on the Dressmaking Amére YouTube channel for better viewing and understanding of instructions. CB SEAM, DARTS eet Hae Ht Pin the Center Back, ight sides together. Sew a press the seam. Press the CB (Center Back) seam. bi Pin the shoulder seams and the side seams. Then, sew and press. Pin the darts on the Front and sew. Press the dart down, and trim off the excess fabric that sticks out. SHOULDER, SIDE SEAMS TIP: Allyour seams should be pressed and cooled in the process, Pressing and cooling the fabric with wooden tailor’s clapper takes away any heat & ‘moisture, allowing the stitches to hold the fabric better. It gets rid of any waviness your fabric may have, leading to smoother seams, and it makes sure that the fabric has the right shape. DRESSMAKING AMORERUBY DRESS | SEWING STEPS 6 - 9 SET IN SLEEVES Fold the sleeve right sides together, pin, and sewthe Press the seam facing the back. The back side is side seams of the sleeve. Repeat for 2nd sleeve. marked with a notch at the armhole. Place the sleeve into the armhole, right sides together. Sew, and press the seam allowances towards the sleeve. Pin matching the side seams, back notches on the sleeve and dress, as well as the center of the sleeve with the shoulder seam. Evenly distribute the fabric and pin. TIP: You can give extra design interest to this dress by sewing the seams on the right side of the fabric, instead of as you usually would do on the inside. You can use a narrow serger seam for this effect. ‘Also, you can play around with different thread colors for your seams to add drama or a fun accent. Your thread doesn't always have to match your fabric:) For example here we're sewing with a black thread ona wine-colored fabric. DRESSMAKING AMORERUBY DRESS | SEWING STEPS 10 - 11 HEM 10. | ‘Sewa rolled seam ona serger. See the instructions for your sewing machine. Practice on a scrap piece of fabric. Your stitch should Use a rolled seam to finish the edges of the neckline, be filled with thread, so that no fabricis seen through. sleeves, and hem. TIP: If you are using a stretch knit fabric that does not unravel, such as an ITY, Brushed Poly, French Terry, Scuba, or a Techno-knit, you can leave the raw edge of the neckline, sleeve, and hem without finishing them. You are welcome to try different ways and techniques to finish the edges to see wh personally like best. jones you For example, fold the fabric and use a twin needle, a decorative zig-zag stitch, a cover stitch, or even hand-stitch the edge. For the plum-colored midi dress, | used a rolled hem only on the neckline. The edges of the sleeves and the hem were left raw. DRESSMAKING AMORE 10RUBY DRESS. TA DAA! y A | Weare finished with our pretty Ruby dress! Show off your beautiful work with photos on Instagram, and tag me at @dressmakingamore using the hashtag #rubydresspattern - | would absolutely looove to see your finished piece! Happy sewing, # Tow, CONTACT ME AT: contact@dressmakingamore.com 3 OOG Dressmaking Amore DRESSMAKING AMORE "RUBY DRESS DESCRIPTION MATERIALS & TOOLS ~Close-fitted CO ~ 1.25m(1.5 yds) stretch knit fabric - Long sleeves D Machine needle for knit fabric (twin, ~Soft boat neckline stretch, jersey, ballpoint, etc) Mini = 81 cm (34") C1 Matching thread Midi =120cm (47°) Glasshead pins ~Center back seam D Scissors C1 1 PREP FABRIC CO 2 PREP PATTERN CO 3. cur Pieces ‘A Pattern layout for printed fabric. B Pattern layout for fabric with no print (economic). sehape edge select Te Tair US 2-20: 110-200 cm (1.85 - 2.2 yds) Fabric width 150 cm (60") C4. SEW (Watch the video tutorial on our YouTube channel at Dressmaking Amore) Sew and press the center back seam. Sew and press the darts. ‘Sewand press the shoulder and side seams. Sew the side seams of the sleeves. Set in the sleeves. Hem the neckline, sleeves and skirt: Give it a final press, take a beautiful photo and enj oo00000 DRESSMAKING AMORE