Patternmaking
Agenda
Body Measurements
Sizing System
Pattern Construction Techniques
Production Patterns
PATTERNMAKING
Population
Virtual display
Pattern construction procedure:
The Block Patternbasic pattern
that is used as a basic for all adaptations.
The Working Patternis used for
marking out the basic style lines and design
feature.
Taking body measurements
The final Pattern (Master)is pattern
S IZE
10
12
14
80.0
84.0
88.0
92.0
16
18
20
800
750
700
650
600
550
500
Frequency
from which the garment will be cut. It must be
clearly market with all the information required
for making up the garment.
450
400
350
300
B ust
(cm )
96.0 100.0 104.0
250
200
150
100
W aist
(cm )
62.0
66.0
70.0
74.0
78.0
82.0
86.0
50
0
-34
-29
-24
-19
-14
-9
-4
11
16
21
26
31
36
difference (bust and hip)
H ips
(cm )
86.0
90.0
94.0
Size chart formation
98.0 102.0 106.0 104.0
Somatometric data analysis
Diagram of the Body Measurements
measuring toolanthropometre
Curves
(non-linear)
Straight-lined
(linear)
Heights
Widths
Lengths
Widths
Others
measuring toolmeasuring tape
Girths
Front Profile
Crutch depth
(Body rise)
Head width
Bust prominence width
Stature
Shoulder width
Under arm length
Bust girth
Taking body measurements manually
Measurements required for bodice and sleeve
1
(h)
Body height
(bg)
Bust girth
(wg)
Waist girth
(ng)
Neck girth
(eg)
Elbow girth
(uag)
Upper arm girth
(wrg)
Wrist girth
(bfl)
Front length to bust
(sl)
Sleeve length
10
(shl)
Shoulder length
11
(wfl)
Front length to waist
12
(fw)
Across front (front width)
13
(bwp)
Bust prominence width
14
(nw)
Nape to waist (back
length)
15
(bw)
Across back (back width)
Measurements required for skirt and trousers
Measurements
1
(h)
Height
(wg)
Waist girth
16
(hg)
Hip girth
17
(uhg)
Upper hip girth
18
(tg)
Thigh girth
19
(kg)
Knee girth
20
(cg)
Calf girth
21
(ag)
Ankle girth
22
(kl)
Knee length
(waist to knee)
23
(al)
Ankle length
(waist to ankle)
24
(llo)
Outside leg length
25
(lli)
Inside leg length
26
(cd)
Crutch depth
(Body rise)
The parallel plains with the basic plain
are horizontal plains
and perpendicular to the vertical plains.
Significant horizontal (transversal) plains,
which are situated in important points
on the human body surface, are e.g.
1 2
Vertical plains
1 - centre back plain,
2 - side neck plain,
3 - back armhole plain,
4 - side plain,
5 - front armhole plain,
6 - chest plain,
7 - centre front plain,
8 - inside leg plain.
Horizontal plains
v - vertex plain,
n - neck plain,
sh -shoulder plain,
b - bust plain,
w - waist plain,
h - hip plain,
c - crutch plain
t - thigh plain,
k - knee plain,
a - ankle plain.
n
sh
b
6 7
w
h
c
t
k
a
Back body
Basic plain
Front body
Apparel patternmaking construction net
n
sh
b
w
h
c
n
b
w
c
sh
b
e
wr
k
k
a
a
The horizontal and vertical contour lines of the cross sections
project into the frontal plane. The flattened human body surface
gives to us systems of respectively perpendicular lines so called
construction net.
The net is the base for the apparel pattern construction.
Industrial Sizing System
A sizing system is a table of numbers which presents the value of each
of the body dimensions used to classify the bodies encountered in the population
for each size group in the system. Sizing system is the parameter complex specified
with the help of essential body dimensions:
Height, Bust girth, Waist girth for men, Hip girth for women
Size intervals are usually
classified according
to height and drop value.
For women, drop value
is defined as the difference
between the hip
circumference and the bust
circumference.
For men, drop value is
defined as the difference
between the chest and the
waist measurement.
S IZE
10
12
14
16
18
20
Bust
(cm )
80.0
84.0
88.0
92.0
96.0 100.0 104.0
W aist
(cm )
62.0
66.0
70.0
74.0
78.0
H ips
(cm )
86.0
90.0
94.0
98.0 102.0 106.0 104.0
100
96
158
80
170
104
women
82.0
men
86.0
Constructional abscissa
Ready-to-wear garment pattern is produced to use body = constructional dimensions,
that are setting in connection with the proposed sizing assortment
Constructional abscissa
(regression equation)
constructional abscissa
regression coefficient
body dimension
absolute term
easy allowances
FRONT BODICE
ABi
ki
Di
qi
ei
BACK BODICE
ABi = ki * Di + qi + ei
e.g. Basic formula for front width:
AB = 0.24 * wg + 2,5
Body block pattern construction
Pattern construction techniques
Pattern represents the two-dimensional
component parts of a garment.
They are used as a guide for cutting
the fabric, which sewn together form
a three dimensional garment.
The creation of these patterns is
the technique of pattern construction.
B = front waist dart
F = elbow dart
C = back shoulder dart
G = wrist dart
fr
CF
E = side seam
CB
bk
A = front shoulder dart
SUPRASIONS AREAS
D = back waist dart
D
E
Garment shaping by suppression
Suppression is the reduction of surplus
fabric to obtain a closer fit using darts,
seams, pleats or gathers.
The construction points are named according to their place on the body
surface and according to the number of construction steps and they are
marked by letters and numbers e.g.
horizontal
line n
horizontal
line n
horizontal
line n
-N1-N2-N21-
vertical
line 1
N21
N1
N2
vertical
line 2
vertical
line 2
-N21- step 1th
n
1
Production patterns
Seams, hems and facings are required to complete a garment pattern
for production.
Back- Interlining
Back- Lining
Back- Shell
Shell pattern
Lining pattern
Interlining pattern
Lining
Interlining
Shell
Seam allowances
The seam allowance is the distance from the
stitching line to the perimeter of a cut garment
part. The amount of seam allowance can vary
greatly according to:
(1) The position of the seam and how much stress
it has from body movement, e.g. an armhole and
sleeve head (minimum allowance 1 cm).
(2) The curvature of the seam influences the seam
width, e.g. the curved seam of a panelled bodice
requires a narrower seam where convex and concave
curves have to be joined together (maximum of 1cm).
(3) Enclosed seams require a narrow seam allowance,
e.g. the faced neck and armhole (maximum of 0.7 cm).
stitching line
seam allowance
(1)
(3)
(2)
(4) The type of machinery required for stitching
the seam influences the seam allowance width
e.g. a flat felled seam
Flat Felled Seam
(2)
(5) The type of fabric often
determines the width of the seam
allowance and how it is neatened e.g.:
- loosely woven fabric
Seam for loosely
woven fabric
Seams for sheer fabric
- sheer fabric
- thick fabric
- stretch fabric
(6) A wide seam allowance
Seam for thick fabric
Seam for stretch fabric
is required for inserting a zip fastener,
e.g. skirt placket (1.5 to 3.5cm).
Wide seam allowances, known
as inlays, are also required where
a garment is specifically constructed
for altering and letting out (1.5 to 3.5
Wide seam allowances
cm).
Hem allowance
The shape of the hemline influences the width of the hem allowance.
A straight hem lies flat when folded back so the hem can be quite wide.
Curved hems do not lie flat when folded back and therefore the hem
width has to be reduced.
The corners at each end of the hem also have to be considered
so that the turned up hem mirrors the intersecting seam.
Straight hem
Circular hem
Straight hem with
mirrored corners
References
MUSILOVA,B. KOMARKOVA,P. GLOMBIKOVA,V.Basic pattern block construction.
Liberec:TUL 2003, ISBN 80-7083-687-3
LINDSAY CARTER,J,E.HONEYMAN HEATH,B. Somatotyping: Development and
Applications . Cambridge University Press 1999, ISBN 0521351170
Aldrich, W. Metric Pattern Catting. Manchester: Blackwell Publishing 2003,
ISBN-1-4051-0278-0.
Winks,J,M.Clothing Sizes:International Standardization. The textile institut Manchester
1997,ISBN 1870812727
FAN,J.YU,W.HUNTER,L.Clothing appearance and fit:Science and
technology.Woodhead Publishing Ltd,Cambridge2004,ISBN1855737450
EBERLE,H. Clothing technology. Europa Lehrmittel Verlag 2008,
ISBN-13: 978- 3808562246
