The document discusses how to copy pattern curves and reapply them after making alterations to a pattern. It describes tracing the original armscye curve before making any changes, then reapplying the curve after alterations to ensure the sleeve still fits in the armscye. Specific instructions are provided for adjusting patterns for narrow shoulders, square shoulders, broad shoulders, and a broad back.
The document discusses how to copy pattern curves and reapply them after making alterations to a pattern. It describes tracing the original armscye curve before making any changes, then reapplying the curve after alterations to ensure the sleeve still fits in the armscye. Specific instructions are provided for adjusting patterns for narrow shoulders, square shoulders, broad shoulders, and a broad back.
The document discusses how to copy pattern curves and reapply them after making alterations to a pattern. It describes tracing the original armscye curve before making any changes, then reapplying the curve after alterations to ensure the sleeve still fits in the armscye. Specific instructions are provided for adjusting patterns for narrow shoulders, square shoulders, broad shoulders, and a broad back.
The document discusses how to copy pattern curves and reapply them after making alterations to a pattern. It describes tracing the original armscye curve before making any changes, then reapplying the curve after alterations to ensure the sleeve still fits in the armscye. Specific instructions are provided for adjusting patterns for narrow shoulders, square shoulders, broad shoulders, and a broad back.
Armscye Salvage a crucial curve after altering the pattern By Linda Lee
Learn to copy pattern
curves and reapply them after pattern adjustments. Its an easy way to simplify pattern alterations.
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ltering one part of a pattern often has repercussions elsewhere, especially when working around armscye curves. With one small pattern adjustment, the sleeve may no longer fit into its armscye. An easy way around this is to preserve the shapes by tracing the armscye curves before making adjustments. Once the alteration is made, reapply the traced armscye and true the seams to compensate for the change. Since the curves dimensions are the same, the sleeve and armscye still match. Get started with an 11-inch by 17-inch pad of tracing paper or
white vellum, an erasable colored pencil (I suggest the Prismacolor Col-Erase 20045 Carmine Red pencil), a ruler, and a fashion curve, a hip curve, or a French curve. Ill demonstrate four methods for transferring curves to recently altered pattern pieces. The following examples are only shown on armscye curves, but feel free to experiment with other curved areas. Linda Lee is an author, teacher, and owner of The Sewing Workshop Pattern Collection. Visit SewingWorkshop.com.
Trace the curve
Place a sheet of tracing paper over the affected curve before making alterations. Use a colored pencil to trace the curve from top to bottom along the cutting line. Then, compare this measurement with the pattern to make sure they match.
Tracing paper
Photo: Sloan Howard. Illustrations: Rosann Berry.
Trace the curve along the cutting line.
Bodice front
w w w. t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o m
Febr uary/M ar c h 2 0 1 5
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Reapply the tracing
Trace the original front and back pattern armscye curves, as explained on page 45. If only the broad back adjustment applies, trace the back armscye curve only.
Narrow shoulders
If the patterns shoulder seams extend beyond the tip of your shoulders, your shoulders are too narrow for the pattern. Determine the new shoulder-point location before tracing the original armscye curve to the front and back bodice pattern pieces.
Align the tracing. Lay the
original curve tracing under the pattern, matching the top end point with the new shoulder point.
New shoulder point
Trace the armscye curve,
and extend the side seam. Pivot the tracing until the underarmscye point aligns with the side seam. Tape the tracing in place, and trace the original armscye shape to the pattern. Then, extend the side seam to meet the underarmscye point. Repeat this entire process for the bodice back pattern piece.
Underarmscye point
Bodice front
Rotate the tracing
and trace the original armscye shape.
Bodice front
Square Shoulders
If wrinkles in garments often occur between the shoulders and the bust area, you most likely have square shoulders. Determine the new shoulder-point location before tracing the original armscye curve to the front and back bodice pattern pieces. Align the tracing. Lay the original armscye curve tracing under the pattern, matching the top end point with the new shoulder point.
Trace the armscye curve,
and connect the lines. Pivot the tracing until the underarmscye point aligns with the side seam. Tape the tracing in place, and trace the original armscye shape to the pattern. Draw a new shoulder slope from the new shoulder point to the neck point. Then, extend the side seam to meet the underarmscye point. Repeat this entire process for the bodice back pattern piece.
New shoulder slope
New shoulder point
Underarmscye point
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Bodice front
Rotate the tracing
and trace the original armscye shape.
Bodice front
Broad shoulders
If sleeves bind and sleeve caps ride up on your shoulders, you most likely have broad shoulders. Determine the new shoulder-point location before tracing the original armscye curve to the front and back bodice pattern pieces.
Align the tracing. Lay the
original curve tracing under the pattern, matching the top end point with the new shoulder point.
New shoulder point
Trace the curve, and extend
the shoulder seam. Pivot the tracing until the underarmscye point meets the side seam. Tape the tracing in place, and trace the original armscye shape to the pattern. Extend the shoulder seam to meet the new shoulder point. Repeat this entire process for the bodice back pattern piece.
Underarmscye point
Bodice front
Rotate the tracing
and trace the original armscye shape.
Bodice front
Broad back
If garments feel too tight across the back and you have difficulty moving your arms, you most likely have a broad back. Determine the new underarmscye-point location before extending the width on the back bodice pattern piece only. Align the tracing. Lay the original armscye curve tracing under the pattern, matching the top end point with the shoulder point. Pivot the tracing away from the pattern until the distance between the two underarmscye points equals half the discrepancy between your back-width measurement and the patterns backwidth measurement. Add approximately 1 inch of ease to this dimension.
Connect the lines. Tape
the tracing in place. Use a fashion curve, hip curve, or French curve to restore the side seam by drawing a line from the underarmscye point to the waist.
